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33d CONGRESS, 1 | , SENATE. Ex. Doc. 
2d Session. i No. 78. 


REPORTS 


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EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS, 


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ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE AND ECONOMICAL ROUTE FOR A RAILROAD 


MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 


MADE UNDER THE DIRECTION OF THE SECRETARY OF WAR, IN 
1853-6. 


ACCORDING TO ACTS OF CONGRESS OF MARCH 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854, AND AUGUST 5, 1854. 


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VOLUME XI. , 


WASHINGTON: 
BEVERLEY TUCKER, PRINTER. 
18565. 


17715 5 01: ۱ BOTANICKB 
E 1 - GARDEN LIBRARY 


IN SENATE—Feprvary 24, 1855. 


Resolved, That there be printed, for the use of the Senate, ten thousand copies of the several reports of surveys for a, rail- 
road to the Pacific, made under the direction of the Secretary of War; and also of the report of F. W. Lander, civil engineer, 
of a survey of a railroad route from Puget’s Sound, by Fort Hall and the Great Salt lake, to the Mississippi river; and the 
report of John C. Frémont, of a route for a railroad from the headwaters of the Arkansas river into the State of California ; 
together with the maps and plates accompanying said reports, necessary to illustrate the same; and that five hundred 
copies be printed for the use of the Secretary of War, and fifty copies for each of the commanding officers engaged i in said 
service. 

Attest : ASBURY DICKINS, Secretary. 


THIRTY-SECOND CONGRESS, SECOND SESSION—CnarrER 98. 

Secr. 10. And be ii further enacted, That the Secretary of War be, and he is hereby authorized, under the direction of the 
President of the United States, to employ such portion of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, and such other persons as he 
may deem necessary, to make such explorations and surveys as he may deem advisable, to ascertain the most practicable and 
economical route for a railroad from the Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean, and that the sum of one hundred and fifty 
thousand dollars, or 80 much thereof as may be necessary, be, and the same is hereby, appropriated out of any money in the 
treasury not otherwise appropriated, to defray the expense of such explorations and surveys. 

Approved March 3, 1853. 


THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cnaprer 60. 


Appropriation : For deficiencies for the railroad surveys between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean, forty thousand 
dollars. 
Approved May 31, 1854. 


THIRTY-THIRD CONGRESS, FIRST SESSION—Cuapter 267. 
Appropriation : For continuing the explorations and surveys to ascertain the best route for a railway to the Pacific, and for 
completing the reports of surveys already made, the sum of one hundred and fifty thousand dollars. 
Approved August 5, 1854. i 


CONTENTS OF VOLUME XI. ۰ 


I. LETTER OF CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, TO THE SECRETARY OF 
WAR, TRANSMITTING LIEUT. WARREN’S MEMOIR. 

II. MEMOIR OF LIEUT. G. K. WARREN, CORPS TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, UPON THE MATERIAL USED AND 
METHODS EMPLOYED IN COMPILING THE GENERAL MAP TO ILLUSTRATE THE BEPORTS OF SURVEYS 
FOR RAILROAD ROUTES FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. —— 

IH. TOPOGRAPHICAL MAPS, PROFILES, AND SKETCHES, TO ILLUSTRATE THE VARIOUS REPORTS OF SURVEYS 


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LETTER TO THE SECRETARY OF ۰ 


War DEPARTMENT, OFFICE OF EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS, - 
Washington, D. C., March 2, 1858. 

Sir: I transmit laesit a report from Lieutenant G. K. Warren, Topographical Engineers, 
exhibiting the data and authorities from which was compiled the map of United States territory 
between the Mississippi river and the Pacific ocean, intended to illustrate the reports upon the 
Pacific railroad explorations. 

It contains a brief account of all the explorations of our territory west of the Mississippi 
river of approved authority, which will be not only valuable to the officers of the corps, but, it 
is thought, interesting to the public. 

The laborious task of compiling the map and preparing the report has been performed by 
Lieutenant Warren while occupied with other duties of an onerous character. The more 
carefully his work is examined, the more apparent will be the industry, care, and sound 
judgment with which it has been executed. 

Very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
A. A. HUMPHREYS, 
; Captain Topographical Engineers, in charge. 
Hon. J. B. Fuoyp, | 
Secretary of War, Washington, D. C. 


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EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC 
OCEAN.—WAR DEPARTMENT. 


MEMOIR 


TO ACCOMPANY THE 


MAP OF THE TERRITORY OF THE UNITED STATES 


FROM THE 


MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 


GIVING 


A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF EACH OF THE EXPLORING EXPEDITIONS SINCE A. D. 1800, WITH A DETAILED DE- 


SCRIPTION OF THE METHOD ADOPTED IN COMPILING THE GENERAL MAP. 


LIEUT. GOUVERNEUR K. WARREN, 


CORPS OF TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, U. S. A. 


1859. 


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LETTER TO CAPTAIN A. A. HUMPHREYS, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. 


War DEPARTMENT, OFFICE or EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS, 
Washington, D. C., March 1, 1858. 
Sir: In D the **map of the territory of the United States from the Mississippi river 


to the Pacific ocean, ordered by the Hon. Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, to accompany the 


reports of the explorations for a railroad route," my instructions were to carefully read every 
report and examine every map of survey, reconnaissance, and travel which could be obtained, 
to ascertain their several values, and to embody the authentic information in the map. This 
duty is now to the best of my ability completed. 

The maps used in the compilation have been mostly made from reconnaissances, and but few 
possess very great accuracy. The geographical positions are therefore rarely determined 
absolutely, or even relatively, with certainty, and new surveys are constantly making slight 
changes necessary. The work of compilation, therefore, must necessarily be frequently 
repeated; and to aid the future compiler, I have prepared the accompanying memoir upon 


. the different maps and books used, and upon the manner in which their discrepancies -have 


been reconciled. 

This memoir is a brief account of the numerous explorations made in our territory west of 
the Mississippi river, and I hope may prove valuable to those seeking information with a view 
to developing the resources of this vast region, as well as interesting to those studying the 
progress of geographical discovery. The work has been in progress during the past four 
years; but other public duties have absorbed the greater part of my time, which must be my 
excuse for its defects. For the beautiful execution of the topography upon the map, I am 
mainly indebted to Mr. E. Freyhold and Mr. F. W. Egloffstein. 

I have the honor to be, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
G. K. WARREN, 
First Lieutenant, Topographical Engineers. 
Captain A. k HUMPHREYS, 
Corps of Topographical Engineers, in charge of Office of Explorations and Surveys. 


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CONTENTS. 


INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 


CHAPTER I. 
Explorations from A. D. 1800 to A. D. 1832 


Captains Lewis and Clarke, U. 8, A., 1804-'5-' 6.—Major Pike, U. S. A., 1805-'6.—Humboldt's New Spain, 1811.—Rector, C. 
E., and Roberdeau, T. E., map, 1818.—Major Long, T. E., first expedition, 1819-'20.— Major Long, T. E., second expe- 
dition, 1823.—J. C. Brown, C. E., survey, 1825-'26—'27,—R. Richardson, C. E., survey, 1826.—Northwestern boundary 
Commission, 1828.—-British Admiralty charts, 1828.—Lieut. Hardy, R. N., exploration of Gulf of California, 1825-'26— 
'27-—28.—Ross Cox's adventures on the Columbia, 1832.— Lieut. Allen, U. S. A., reconnaissance of source of the 
Mississippi, 1832.—Schoolcraft’s narrative, 1832.—Finley's map of North America, 1826. 


CHAPTER II. 
Explorations from A. D. 1832 to A. D. 1844. 


Capt. Bonneville, U. S. A., expedition, 1832 to 1836.— Discovery of Great Salt lake and Humboldt river.—Irving’s Astoria.— 
Lieut, E. Steen, U. S. A., map, 1835.— Topographical Bureau, map of western frontier, 1837.—C. Dimmock, C. E., sur- _ 
vey, 1838.—Capt. W. Hood, T. E., memoir and map, 1839.—Topographical Bureau, map of Oregon, 1838.—Survey of 
boundary of Louisiana and Texas, 1840.—Com. Wilkes, U. S. N., map of Oregon, 1841.—Kendall’s Santa Fé expedition, 
1841.— Prof. Nicollet's exploration and map, 1836 to 1840. —Lieut. J. C. Frémont, T. E., exploration, 1842.— Capt. ۰ 
Boone, U. S. A., expedition, 1843.— Capt. J. Allen, U. S. A., expedition, 1843.—Topographical Bureau, map of Texas, 
1844,—Gregg’s '*'Commerce of the Prairies," 1844. 


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| CHAPTER III. 
Explorations from A. D. 1843 to A. D. 1852. 


Capt. J. C. Frémont, T. e exploration, 1843-'44.—Uapt. J. C. Frémont, pem in 1845-'46.—Lieut. J. W. Abert, T. 
E., reconnaissance, 1845.—Lieut. W. B. Franklin, T. E., reconnaissance, 1845.—Brevet Maj. W. H. Emory, T. E., recon- 
iem, 1846-'47.—Lieut. J. W. Abert, T. E., reconnaissance, Iu. Ee Col. P. St. George Cooke, U.S. A., 
expedition, 1846-147. —A. Wislizenus, M. D., examination, 1846-'47.— Brevet Capt. W. H. Warner, T. E., reconnaissance, 
1847—'48-'49.—Lieut.G. H. Derby, T. E., reconnaissance, 1849. —Lieut. J. D. Webster, T. E., survey of mouth Rio Grande, 
1847.—Lieut. J. H, Simpson, T. E., reconnaissance along the Canadian river, 1849.—Lieut. J. H. Simpson, T. E., recon» 
naissance, Navajo country, 1849.— Capt. R. B. Marcy, U. S. A., expedition, 1849.—Capt. H. Stansbury, T. E., expedition 
to Great Salt lake, 1849—'50.—March of rifle regiment to Oregon, 1849.-—Major Wood, U. S. Inf., and Capt. Pope, T. E., 
expedition to Red river, 1849.— Brevet Lieut. Col. Johnston, T. E., reconnaissances in Texas, 1849, 1850-'51.— Topograph- 
ical Bureau, map of territory of United States west of the Mississippi, 1850.—R. H. Kern, C. E., reconnaissance on the 
Pecos river, 1850.—Lieut. J. G. Parke, T. E., map of New Mexico, 1851.— Capt. Sitgreaves and Lieut. Woodruff, T. E., 

of Creek country, 1850-'51.—Capt. Sitgreaves, T. E., expedition to Zuñi and Colorado rivers, 1851.—Lieut. G. 
H. Derby, T. E., reconnaissance, mouth of Colorado river, 1851.—Lieut, I. C. Woodruff, T. E., reconnaissance, 1852.— | 
Capt. R. B. Marcy, U. S. A., expedition to source of Red river. 


12 CONTENTS. 


. CHAPTER ۰ 
Explorations from A. D. 1852 to A. D. 1851. 


Gov. I. I. Stevens and Capt. G. B. McClellan, U. S. E., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1853-'54-' 55.—Lieut. 
R. Arnold, U. S. A., survey, 1854.—F. W. Lander, C. E, reconnaissance, 1854.—Capt. G. W. Gunnison, T. E., and 
Capt. E. G. Beckwith, U. S. A., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1853.—Capt. E. G. Beckwith, U. S. A., 
exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1854.— Capt. A. W. Whipple, T. E., exploration and survey for a rail- 
road route, 1853-'54.—Lieut. R. S. Williamson, T. E., survey for a railroad route, 1853-’54.—Lieut. J. G. Parke, T. 
E., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1854.— Capt. J. Pope, T. E., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 
1854.—Lieut. J. G. Parke, T. E., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1854-’55.—Lieut. R. S. Williamson, T. E., 
and Lieut. H. L. Abbott, T. E., exploration and survey for a railroad route, 1855.—Major W. H. Emory, U. 8. A., 
United States and Mexican boundary survey, 1849 to 1855.— Capt. J. L. Reno, U. S. A., survey, 1853.—Capt. R. B. 
Marcy, U. S. A., exploration, 1854.—Alexander Boss, ‘‘ fur hunters of the far west," 1855.— March of Colonel Steptoe’s 
command to California, 1854-'55.—Lieut. J. Withers, U. S. A., survey of road, 1854.— Lieut. G. H. Derby, T. E, survey 
of roads, 1854-'55.—Lieut. G. H. Mendell, T. E., reconnaissance, 1855.— Capt. J. H. Simpson, T. E., survey of roads, 
1855.—Lieut. G. K. Warren, T. E , reconnaissance, 1855.—Lieut. F, T. Bryan, T. E., reconnaissance, 1855.— Lieut. J. 
C. Amory, U. S. A., reconnaissance in 1855.—Major Merrill, U. S. A., reconnaissance, 1855.—Lieut. I. N. Moore, U. 
S. A., map of part of New Mexico, 1855.—Lieut. E. L. Hartz, U. S. A., reconnaissance, 1856.—Lieut. F. T. Bryan, T. 
E., survey of road, 1856.— Capt. J. H. Dickerson, U. S. A., survey of road, 1856.— Lieut. W. D. Smith, U. S. A., recon- 

- naissance of route, 1856.— Capt. A. Sully, U. S. A., reconnaissance, 1856.—Lieut. G. K. Warren, T. E., reconnaissance 
of Missouri and Yellowstone, 1856.—Explorations ordered in 1857. 


CHAPTER V. 
Method of compiling the map, with list of principal determinations of longitude. 
CHAPTER VI. 
General remarks upon the topography of the region west of the Mississippi river. 


LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Prats 1.— Reduced copy of f territory west of the Mississippi river, published with Winterbotham's History in 1796 

PrarE 2, —Reduced copy of بط‎ and bedan s map of the ای‎ west of the Mississippi, 1818 .............. 

Prats 3.—Reduced copy of map of the territory west of the Mississippi river, from Finley’s map of North America, 
published i in 1826 

PLATE 4,—Reduced — a Captain Bonneville's map of the region from the DT mountains to the Pacific, pub- 

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INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 


THE general map accompanying the reports of explorations for railroad routes from the 
Mississippi river to the Pacific ocean embraces all the territory of the United States from the 
great lakes and Mississippi river on the east to the Pacific ocean on the west. The plan 
adopted in constructing it has been to represent only such portions as have been actually 
explored, and of which our information may be considered reliable. It has been, frequently 
necessary to decide between the merits of discrepant authorities, and to select those which 
seem the best. In performing this delicate task, the general principle has been carried out of 


adopting the work of those explorers who were best provided with instruments, and who 


possessed the largest share of that experience which is so necessary in attaining accuracy, 
taking the evidence of these advantages from their own reports. 

The compilation has been made from the Pacific railroad explorations and surveys, and 
from all other reliable maps and works that were available. The determinations and 
surveys of the United States Land Office, United States Coast Survey, and United States 
Mexican Boundary Commission have been obtained in advance of their publication, and, in 
return, copies of this map have been furnished whenever requested, at all stages of its 
progress. Many authentic manuscript maps have been received from the Bureau of Topo- 
graphical Engineers, where the systematic arrangement and cataloguing renders them easy for 
reference. Others have been furnished by the offices of the Adjutant General and Quarter- 
master General of the army. Ihave also been favored with maps and books from the Indian 
Bureau, from the Smithsonian Institution, and from the library of Colonel Peter Force, of this 
city; and with notes, letters, sketches, and suggestions from officers of the army and others. 
Many of the maps and reports used have never been printed, while numbers are now out of 
print and difficult to obtain. There is no library or office of the government in which a 
complete series of these works can be found. 

Before detailing the manner in which the compilation has been made, I have therefore 
thought it desirable to give a brief account of each of the different explorations, the routes 
traversed, the methods employed in observing, the maps prepared, &c., &c., in-order of date. 

By this undertaking I hope to promote the consultation of the original reports and maps, by 
pointing out to each investigator those works which probably contain information about the 
region of country especially interesting to himself. As a general rule, I shall confine myself to 
the explorations made in the territory of the United States. 

The maps of the old Spanish and French navigators and explorers who visited the Mississippi. 
the Gulf of Mexico, and the shores of the Pacific, and who often examined portions of the 
interior, have nearly all been replaced within our territory by more accurate determinations of 
our own. They have, therefore, little practical value in this connexion, and will not be 
specially noticed. An almost complete account of Spanish discoveries in New Mexico prior to 
1811 can be found in Baron Humboldt's New Spain. The subject is still further discussed in ` 


16 INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 


Lieutenant James Abert’s report of reconnaissances in New Mexico in 1846, Captain A. W. 
Whipple’s report of survey of railroad route near the 35th parallel, and elsewhere. 

A valuable history of the progress of early discoveries on the western coast of North America 
can be seen in a French work by M. Duflot de Mofras, published in 1844, and also in Mr. Robert 
Greenhow’s book on Oregon and California, published in 1845. This last work is accompanied 
by a map ‘‘of the western and middle portions of North America," compiled by Mr. Greenhow. 
. An elaborate work upon the early discoveries on the coast of America, both upon the Atlantic 
and Pacific shores, has lately been prepared for the United States Coast Survey by Dr. J. G. 
Kohl. It will appear in the printed papers of the Coast Survey. 

The first exploration which seems to require a detailed notice is that of Captains Lewis and 
Clarke, United States army, directed by President Jefferson in 1803. The small map herewith 
presented exhibits the knowledge possessed of our present territory west of the Mississippi 
river before this exploration was made. 

As the explorations are mentioned in order of date, the various examinations in the same 
region, or along the same route or river, are necessarily separated. To avoid the difficulty 
which this arrangement presents in making a prompt reference to all the sources of information . 
of any one subject, an index has been prepared, which will be found at the end of this memoir. 
The political and military divisions of the country are taken in the index as T" Mota on the 
first edition of the map, which was correct at the date of this report. 3 


CHAPTER I. 
EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. D. 1832. 


CAPTAINS LEWIS AND CLARKE, U. 8. A., 1804-5-6 —MAJOR PIKE, U. S. A., 1805-'6.—HuMBOLDT'S NEW SPAIN, 1811.—RECTOR, C. E., AND 
ROBERDEAU, T. E., MAP, 1818.— MAJOR LONG, T. E., IST EXPEDITION, 1819—20.—MAJonR LONG, T. E., 2D EXPEDITION, 1823 —J. C. 
BROWN, C. E., SURVEY, 1825-26-27.—R. RICHARDSON, C. E, SURVEY, 1826.—NORTHWEST BOUNDARY COMMISSION, 1828. —BRITISH 
ADMIRALTY CHARTS, 1828.—L:EUTENANT HARDY, R. N., EXPLORATIONS GULF OF CALIFORNIA, 1825-2627-28. — Ross cox’s 
“ ADVENTURES ON THE COLUMBIA,” 1832.—LIEUTENANT ALLEN, U. S. A., RECONNAISSANCE OF THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 1832.— 
ScHOOLCRAFT’s NARRATIVE, 1832 —FINLEY’s MAP OF NORTH AMERICA, 1826. 

EPIRA TIONS OF CAPTAIN MERIWETHER LEWIS, U. Y ۳ AND CAPTAIN WILLIAM CLARKE, U. 8. A., 

IN 1804-'5- 


THE narrative I have consulted most particularly is entitled ‘t Travels to the Source of the 
Missouri River and across the American Continent to the Pacific Ocean, performed, by order of the gov- 
ernment of the United States, in the years 1804, 1805, and 1806. By Captains Lewis and Clarke; 
published from the official report, and illustrated by a map of the route and other maps. London ; 
Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, & Brown, Paternoster Row.—1814.’’ This book consists 
of one volume quarto, illustrated by a map on a-scale of 70 miles to an inch, showing the 
country from Lake Superior and the Mississippi to the Pacific ocean, between the 39th and 49th 
parallels. The other maps are enlarged plans of certain important localities. Another and 
more common edition, published by the same parties in 1817, is composed of 3 volumes 8vo., 
with a map on a scale of about 80 miles to an inch. 

An account of the expedition was also published in 1808, by Patrick Gass, a sergeant on the 
exploration; it contains some particulars not noticed in the official narrative. 

An abridged edition, prepared by Archibald M. Vickar, was published in two volumes in 
Harper's Family Library Series, in 18—. The map accompanying this edition has one glaring 
error, in placing a high range of mountains ranging east and west between the Missouri and 
Yellowstone rivers. 

These explorers began to ascend the Missouri river in keel boats, cordeled by hand, in 1804. 
They were provided with compasses for determining their courses, and with chronometers, 
sextants, and artificial horizons for obtaining latitudes and longitudes. They spent the winter 
of 1804 and 1805 at Fort Mandan, opposite the existing Ree village, or Fort Clarke. The 
next season, having ascended the Missouri to the Three Forks, and named them Jefferson, 
Madison, and Gallatin, and believing the first to be the main stream, they followed it to its 
source. 

From the sources of the Jefferson Fork, Captain Clarke, with afew men, passed over to those 
of the north or east fork of Lewis’ river, (Salmon river,) and endeavored to ‘discover a route 
westward. Finding it impracticable to descend the stream or to cross the mountains lying 
west of it, that route was abandoned. The party then ascended Fish creek, a small branch of 
Salmon river, and crossing a high mountain ridge to the east, entered the valley of the Bitter 
Root river. This they descended to the mouth of Travellers Rest creek, named Lou-Lou 

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18 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. D. 1832. 


Fork, on Governor Stevens’ map. Having ascended this last creek to its source, they crossed 
the Bitter Root mountains with difficulty, and came upon the sources of the Koos-koos-ky. 
Unable to follow this stream through its cafions, they wandered to the north among the mount- 
ains, suffering great hardships, and being compelled to eat their horses from want of food, 
until finally they reached the Koos-koos-ky where it is navigable for canoes. Having con- 
structed boats, they sailed down that stream to Lewis’ river, passing several dangerous rapids 
on the way. They next followed Lewis’ Fork to the Columbia river,* which they explored to 
its mouth, reaching the Pacific in December. Winter quarters were established at Fort 
Clatsop, where they remained till the latter part of March, 1806. 

The expedition started again in April and returned by nearly the same route to the mouth 
of Traveller’s Rest creek, experiencing some embarrassment from the snows and from the 
want of forage, and being often compelled to subsist upon horse and dog flesh. At the mouth 
of Traveller’s Rest creek the party divided; Captain Lewis, with one portion, proceeded up 
the Hell Gate river to the Cokalahiskit river, (Blackfoot Fork,) and thence up the latter to its 
source; crossing the divide between the Columbia and the Missouri by what Governor Stevens 
calls Lewis and Clarke’s Pass, although Captain Clarke did not go through it. Next proceeding 
northwardly to the sources of Maria’s river, Captain Lewis followed this stream to its mouth, 
and then passing down the Missouri he overtook and joined Captain Clarke. Captain Clarke, 
on separating from Captain Lewis at Traveller’s Rest creek, proceeded up the Bitter Root 
river to its source, and crossing the dividet between the Missouri and Columbia by a much 
more favorable route than that examined by the party on their outward journey, reached 
the point on the Jefferson Fork where the canoes had been left. He passed down this stream 
to its junction with Gallatin’s Fork ; ascending the latter stream a short distance, he crossed the 
divide between it and the Yellowstone, and then journeyed down this river to a point where 
timber was found sufficiently large to make canoes. These he constructed, and thus navigated 
the river to its mouth. Floating thence leisurely down the Missouri, he was soon afterwards 
joined by Captain Lewis, and the two parties, ‘‘happily united,’’ returned together to the 
regions of civilization. 

It does not appear from the journal I have read that the explorers relied much upon deter- 
minations for longitudes. That of the mouth of the Platte was taken by them half a degree 
too far west; that of the mouth of the Yellowstone accords well with the best recent determi- 


* The Columbia river derives its name from the American trading ship Columbia, commanded by Captain Gray, who 
entered its mouth in 17 92, and examined it as far as Gray's bay. He shortly afterward met the celebrated navigator Van- 
couver, to whom he gave a chart m his discoveries. Vancouver visited the river and his lieutenant, Broughton, 
explored it more than one hündred miles, 

The existence of ive Vl inn D before the visits of Gray and mem the information concerning it 
was vague and uncertain. One or two unsuccessful attempts had been made to discover its mouth, where it is supposed a 
Spanish ship was wrecked in early times. — 

The name Oregon was at one time applied to the Columbia, and from this cireumstance the ROY of Oregon Nias derived 
its name. . The word seems to have originated in a work by Jonathan Carver, published in London in 1778, and the subject is 
ably discussed in Mr, Greenhow’s History of Oregon and California, from which I make two quotations : **In the preceding 
extracts from Carvers book, embracing all that he has said respecting his Oregon or Great River of the West, there is 
certainly nothing calculated to establish the identity of the stream to which those vague descriptions and allusions apply, 
with the Columbia or any other river" © ۶ ‘* As to the name Oregon, cr the authority for its use, the traveller i is silent ; 
and nothing has been learned from any source, though much labor has been expended in attempts to discover its meaning 
and derivation : it was most probably invented by Carver.’ 

1 Lieutenant Mullan calls this the Bighole Mountain Pass. 


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EXPLORATIONS FROM A, D. 1800 TO A. D. 1832. 19 


nations; that of the mouth of the Columbia was taken one degree too far west. "The place 
which they mention as the extreme navigable point of the Missouri is placed by their observa- 
tions on latitude 43? 30', while the most southern point on Jefferson Fork is, according to Gov- 
ernor Stevens’ map, in about latitude 44? 30'; thus showing a considerable discrepancy. 
Most of the routes and rivers they examined have been re-explored, the only exceptions being 
the sources of Salmon river, the Missouri river from the Gate of the Mountains to its source, 
and the Yellowstone, from the point where Captain Clarke struck it to the mouth of Powder 
river. The tests to which the maps of this exploration have been subjected prove them to 
have been carefully made and with great accuracy, considering the means and circumstances of 
the party. 

The original map represente the different ridges of the Rocky mountains with a general north- 
west trend from the Black Hills westward, and it is neither responsible for the error of repre- 
senting those north of the Platte with a northeast trend, nor for the false indication of a range 
of mountains running east and west between the Yellowstone and Missouri. Deceived by the 
size of the Wallamath at its mouth, these explorers supposed it to be a stream of great length, 
and represented it on their map as heading to the southwest in the vicinity of what is now 
known to be the Great Salt lake. 'The names they gave to the rivers have been generally 
adopted, although a little confusion exists about some of the smaller ones. Captain Clarke 
speaks of one Fish creek, a branch of the head stream of Salmon river, and of another Fish 
creek near it on the east of the great divide, running into Wisdom river. Again, Lieutenant 
Mullan says, in his report to Governor Stevens of his examinations across the Bitter Root 
mountains, (P. R. R. Report, vol. I, quarto edition, page 530:) ** Through this prairie flows a 
small creek to the headwaters of the Clearwater, called by Messrs. Lewis and Clarke ‘‘Glade 
creek." The creek which is called by Captain Clarke Glade creek is at the source of Wisdom 
river. Captain Lewis’ melancholy death occurred before the completion of the narrative, thus 
devolving the whole labor of the report upon his able associate, Captain Clarke. Several 
editions of the work have appeared, differing somewhat from each other, and thus, no doubt, 
has arisen the misunderstanding now existing concerning the names of places. 

" EXPLORATIONS OF MAJOR Z M. PIKE, U.S.A., 1805-6-7. 


p 


ulpa wiiérdive: I have consulted is entitled “An Account of Expeditions to the Sources of the 
Mississippi, and through the western parts of Louisiana, to the Sources of the Arkansas and Pierre- 
jaun Rivers, performed, by order of the Government of the United States, during the years 1805, 
'6, and "1; and a Tour through the interior parts of New Spain, when conducted through these 
provinces by order of the Captain General, in 1807. By Major Z. M. Pike; illustrated by maps 
and charts. Published by C. & A. Conrad & Co., Philadelphia. John Binus, printer. —1810." 
Accompanying it is a map of the Mississippi river, from the mouth of the Missouri river to 
Leech lake, on a scale of about 25 miles to one inch; a map, in two sheets, on a scale of about 
40 miles to one inch, showing the supposed positions of the Platte, Arkansas, and Red rivers, 
from their mouths to their sources; and a map of New € in two sheets, on a scale of about 
75 miles to an inch. 

In 1805 and ’6, Lieutenant Pike,* in his expedition to the sources of the "— ae 
® Major Pike was a lieutenant while the making both of the explorations noticed here, and was promoted after hig 


return. 


20 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. p. 1832. 


the stream from the mouth of the Missouri to what is called Upper Red Cedar lake, 
(since named Cass lake,) and examined Turtle river, an affluent of this to its sources. He also 
examined Leech lake and Leech river, to its junction with the Mississippi. His map of the river 
gives its general direction with considerable accuracy, and is the more creditable to him, since, 
in his own language, ‘‘in the execution of this voyage I had no gentlemen to aid me, and I 
literally performed the duties (as far as my limited abilities permitted) of astronomer, com- 
manding officer, clerk, spy, guide, and hunter." 

Lieutenant Pike's second expedition was to the sources of the Arkansas, with the intention 
of passing thence south to those of Red river of Louisiana, and descending this stream to 
Natchitoches. He was accompanied by Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson, U. S. A., and Dr. J. 
H. Robinson, M.D., and was provided with a sextant, chronometer, and compasses. He started 
from Belle Fontaine, (near the mouth of the Missouri,) ascended this river to near the mouth 
of the Osage, and thence up the latter to the great Osage village. Here, abandoning his boats, 
he ascended to one of its sources by land, and proceeded westwardly, crossing Grand river, 
(also called Neosho river.) Thence, turning toward the north, he crossed, successively, the 
Smoky Hill Fork, the Grand Saline, and Solomon's Fork, (the latter two of which he errone- 
ously represents as running into the Republican Fork,) and reached the Republican Fork at 
the Pawnee village. Proceeding thence southward, he recrossed the several branches which 
flow into the Smoky Hill Fork, and reached the Arkansas river near the mouth of Pawnee 
Fork. Here he detached Lieutenant Wilkinson, with five men, to make a reconnaissance of 
the Arkansas down to its mouth, which he successfully accomplished. 

Lieutenant Pike set out with the remainder of the party to explore the river to the mount- 
ains. Arriving at a southern branch, the ‘‘ Third fork," (called on Major Long’s map the St. 
Charles river, now known as the Greenhorn river,) he built a small fort, and, leaving it 
defended by a portion of his party, started toward the northwest to examine the ‘‘Grand Peak.” 
Arriving within sixteen miles of it, on the 27th of November, he saw, from the summit of a 
mountain, where the snow was three feet deep and the thermometer 4° below zero, that this 
peak towered above him to a height equal to the altitude above its base of the one upon 
which he stood. He therefore abandoned the idea of climbing it, as he believed ‘no human 
being could have ascended to its pinnacle." This peak, he says, ‘‘ was so remarkable as to be 
known to all the savage nations for hundreds of miles around, and to be spoken of with admira- 
tion by the Spaniards of New Mexico, and was the bounds of their travels northwest." He 
estimated its elevation above the sea 18,581 feet.* 

Lieutenant Pike returned to his fort at the mouth of the ‘‘Third fork," and continued his 
exploration up the Arkansas. Ascending one of its northwestern branches, he crossed the 
divide at its source, and was much surprised to discover a stream forty yards wide flowing 
toward the northeast, which he concluded was the Platte, (the south forks of which it prob- 
ably was.) He had expected to find there the source of Red river, running to the south- 
west. Continuing on in the northwest course, he struck another stream, which he supposed 
was Red river.. Subsequently, discovering his error, he concluded that it was the source 
of the Pierre-jaun, (Yellowstone,) and it is so mentioned on the title page of the book. 

Major Long, in his map of the expedition to the Rocky mountains, in 1820, represents this 
stream as the source of Lewis’ Fork of the Columbia. Mr. James, who wrote the narrative of 


9 See discussion of the altitude of this peak in describing Major Long’s expedition to the Rocky mountains. 


vod m, Hil D fe c ez e v eme a‏ که 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To A. D. 1832. 21 


Major Long’s expedition, thought it must have been the north fork of the Platte. A com- 
parison of Pike's map with Frémont's makes it evident that it was the source of what Frémont 
calls Grand river, which unites with Green river, and forms the Great Colorado of the west, 
a tributary of the Gulf of California. From this it appears that Lieutenant Pike has the honor 
of being the first American explorer that reached the sources of this large river, and the 
second that crossed the divide between the waters of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. - 

Still searching for the sources of Red river, Lieutenant Pike turned to the south, and 
came upon another stream, which he recognized as the Arkansas. . He was now in great per- 
plexity, so completely had he been deceived as to the sources of Red river. He was in 
the mountains, ‘‘in the most inclement season of the year; not one person clothed for the 
winter, many without blankets, (having been obliged to cut them up for socks, &c.;’’) raw 
buffalo hide made them a miserable substitute for shoes, and at night they lay ‘‘on the snow 
or on the wet ground, one side burning, whilst the other was pierced with cold wind ;" often, 
too, they were near starving; still he would not give up his search, though at a loss where to 
go. Proceeding to the south, up a branch of the Arkansas, some of his men's feet were 
badly frozen that a party was left behind. He finally crossed the ‘‘Great White mountain’’ 
(Sierra Blanca,) near the Sand hills, and found himself on the banks of a stream flowing south, 
which he did not doubt was the long-sought Red river. Here he built a small block-house for 
defence, and sent back for the men he had-left behind. These were ultimately rescued, but 
were cripples for life. While at his fort, waiting the return of his men, he was visited by some 
Spanish officers, one of whom said that the governor of New Mexico, having heard that he had 
lost his way, had sent to offer him whatever he might need, and to conduct him to the head of 
Red river. Lieutenant Pike was astonished to find that he was then on the banks of the 
Rio Grande del Norte, and a trespasser on foreign soil. Willing to make every honorable 
explanation, he accepted their offer to visit the governor of Santa Fé, who, as soon as he was 
in his power, treated him as a prisoner, and he was sent to Governor Salcedo, at Chihua- 
hua. On the pretence of wishing to examine his papers and sketches, Governor Salcedo 
obtained possession of his notes, most of which were never returned, as he considered the 
documents contained proofs *'that an offence of magnitude ’’ had “been committed against his 
Majesty." From this cause his map was, probably, much less complete and perfect than it 
would otherwise have been. Fortunately the journal and a copy of the courses and distances 
were preserved. Lieutenant Pike was otherwise treated with the greatest politeness by the 
Spaniards, and they escorted him safely through Texas to Natchitoches, on Red river. 

Nearly every part of the country traversed by Lieutenant Pike has since been explored by 
parties better provided with instruments, and his determinations are now replaced by others 
more accurate. 

. Red river, the discovery of whose sources was one of the main objects of Major Pike's* 
expedition, was examined in 1806 by a party under Captain Sparks, from the mouth as far up 
as the Spanish border. Here he was met by a Spanish force very much superior to his in 
numbers, and prevented from going further. 

At this time the boundary between Louisiana and New Spain! was not definitely agreed upon, 


® Major Pike became a general during the war of 1812 with Great Britain, and was killed by a stone thrown from a mine 
which his enemies sprung as they abandoned a fort from which his command had just forced them. In the preface to the 
English edition of Lewis & Clarke’s Explorations, a foot-note erroneously states that he was killed by the accidental explosion 
of a magazine in a fort at which he was stationed. 


22 | EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. D. 1832. 


and the Americans and Spanish each maintained troops near the border to prevent the incur- 
sions of the opposite party. Burr’s schemes were also agitating the public mind, and probably 
increased the suspicions of the governments of both nations. 
The exploration of Red river was particularly desirable to the United States as being part of 
a proposed boundary line, with which the Spaniards were probably already well informed. 
Captain Pike, ina letter to Governor Salcedo, dated Natchitoches, August 20, 1807, says: ‘‘If the 
continuation of an amicable understanding between the two nations is an object of estimation in 
the mind of your excellency, the final demarcation of limits must be considered as the first 
great step to be taken towards its accomplishment; and to enable my government to form a 
correct idea on that subject it was requisite they should be well acquainted with the geographi- 
cal situation of the heads of the Arkansas and Red rivers, the former part of which I had 
accomplished, and could with all ease have carried the remaining part into execution (after 
. discovering my mistake of the Rio del Norte for the Red river) had I been — by the 
governor of New Mexico." 


-HUMBOLDT'S NEW SPAIN, 1811. 


The edition of this work, which I have consulted, is entitled *' Political Essay on the King- 
dom of New Spain, containing researches relative to the geography of Mexico; the extent of its surface, 


and its political division into intendencies; the physical aspect of the country; the population; the state — 


of agriculture and manufacturing and commercial industry ; the canals projected between the South 
sea and Atlantic ocean; the crown revenues ; the quantity of the precious metals which have flowed 
from Mexico into Europe and Asia since the discovery of the New Continent; and the military defence 
of New Spain. By Alexander de Humboldt; with physical sections and maps, founded on astronom- 
ical observations and trigonometrical and barometrical measurements. Translated from the original 
French by John Black. Second edition. London: Printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme, d 
Brown, and H. Colburn—1814." It is accompanied by an original map, on a scale of 120 miles 
to an inch, **of New Spain, from 16° to 38° north latitude, between the 94th and 114th meridian; 
** reduced from the large map drawn from astronomical observations at Mexico, in the year 1804, 
by Alexander de Humboldt; and comprehends the whole of the HOM contained. in the origi na 
map, except the heights of the mountains." 
This work, completed by the Baron Humboldt for the Spanish government in 1808, is almost 
a complete summary of all the explorations made by the Spaniards down to the date of its 
preparation, and is therefore of much value in showing the extent of their knowledge at that 
day. It shows that Father Escalante, in 1777, visited or gained information about Lake Tim- 
panogos, (doubtless Utah lake, which has an affluent now called by that name, and which is 
fresh, like the one described by him,) and also Lake Salado, (probably Sevier lake,) which, he 
says, receives the waters of the Rio de San Buenaventura, its western limits being unknown. 
Baron Humboldt did not entertain the idea that any large river flowed into the Pacific ocean 
from the region which now composes the Territory of Utah, as was generally represented on 
all the English maps. His work does not, however, give any positive information about the 
topography and hydrography of any portion of our present territory, which the explorations of 
our government have not replaced by more accurate results. Still, as it has formed the basis 
of many classifications of the great mountain system, and abounds in valuable enunciations of 
the true principles of hydrography and topography, no one should neglect to consult it whose 
scientific investigations extend to the country west of the Mississippi. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. Dp. 1832. 23 


RECTOR'S AND ROBERDEAU'S COMPILED MAP, 1818. 

This map is titled, ‘‘ Sketch of the western part of the continent of North America, between lati- 
tudes 35° and 52° N.,’’ from the 87th meridian to the Pacific ocean, on a scale of about 47 
miles to an inch. ‘‘ This map, of an extent of country including more than 20° of latitude and 50° 
of longitude, was originally drawn under the inspection of William Rector, esquire, surveyor of the 
United States for the Territories of Missouri and Illinois, and was by him presented to the General 
Land Office, January 21, 1818. It is probably the most correct map of the country now extant. 
Signed Josiah — General Land Office, January 21, 1818; Roberdeau,. U. S. T. Engineers, 
del. 

From the year 1807 to 1819, our country was much of the time involved in foreign difficulties, 
and little was done, so far as I have been able to learn, in exploring our western possessions. 
This map of Rector and Roberdeau has, I believe, never been published ; and, as it shows the 
extent of the existing information at that time, which was prior to the expeditions of Major 
Long, I have thought it desirable to present a reduced copy, (Plate II.) On it, as on Pike's 
map, the Red river of Louisiana is represented as heading where the sources of the Canadian 
are now known to be. The Rio Grande is represented as rising to the north of the sources of 
the Arkansas, near those of the Bighorn river, or near the true position of the و‎ of Green 
river. The sources of Lewis’ Fork of the Columbia are correctly rep ted ly to those 
of the Yellowstone. The Rio de San Rafael is indicated as the most northern branch of the 
Colorado of the West, as itis on Humboldt’s map of New Spain. The Wallameth is represented 
as heading near the Rio San Rafael, as it is on Lewis and Clarke’s map. Only one large river is 
represented as flowing into the bay of San Francisco, heading to the southeast of it. Neither 
the Great Salt lake, nor Lake Salado, nor. Lake Timpanogos, nor any other in this region, is 
represented. On it there is no indication of those hypothetical streams, the Rio San Buena- 
ventura, the Rio Timpanogos, or the Rio los Mongos, flowing from a large lake into the Pacific; 
rivers which had gained a place, and continued long after to be represented on English maps. 
The representations of mountains west of the Rocky mountain range is quite ^ but it 
Pn À— 


abd MAJOR S. H. LONG'S FIRST EXPEDITION, 1819 AND 1820. MET 


VOR bd dbi ره تور )روگ‎ geimer1810 
and 1820, by order of the Hon. J. C. Calhoun, Secretary of War, under the command of Major 
Stephen H. Long, from the notes of Major Long, Mr. T. Say, and other gentlemen of the exploring 
party: compiled by Edwin James, botanist and geologist for the expedition. In two volumes, with 
an atlas. Philadelphia: H. C. Carey and I. Lea, Chestnut street.—1823.’’ This book also 
contains Major Long’s official report. Accompanying the publication is a map, in two sheets, 
on a scale of 75 miles to an inch, embracing the country from the meridian of Washington to 
the Rocky mountains, between the 33d and 47th parallels. The original map in the Topo- 
graphical Bureau is in one sheet, on a scale of 36 miles to an inch. The same work was 
republished ‘‘in three volumes in London: printed for Longman, Hurst, Rees, Orme oe 
Paternoster Row.—1823.”’ 

This expedition started from Pittsburg, Pennsylvania, early in April, 1819, on hina the 
small steamboat Western Engineer, under command of Major Long. He was assisted by 
Major Biddle, Lieutenant J. D. Graham, U. S. A., Cadet W. H. Swift, Dr. Baldwin, Dr. 


24 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 TO A. D. 1832, 


Thomas Say, Mr. Jessup, Mr. T. R. Peale, and Mr. Samuel Seymour. They were provided 
with chronometers, sextants, telescope for observing occultations and eclipses, and with com- 
passes. They descended the Ohio river to its mouth, ascended the Mississippi to the mouth of 
the Missouri, and up this river to Old Council Bluff, which was the end of their travels that 
season, the main body wintering there at Engineer Cantonment. 

On their way up the Missouri Mr. Say, with a party consisting of Messrs. Jessup, Peale, 
Seymour, Cadet Swift, Mr. J. Dougherty, and five men, had been detached at Fort Osage to 
explore the country along the Kansas, and between that river and the Platte, and then to de- 
scend the last named stream to its mouth. "They ascended the Kansas to the mouth of the Blue 
river, but were met by a war party of Pawnees, who stole all their horses and baggage, and 
forced them to return to the Missouri, which they reached at Cow island, and followed to the 
. mouth of Wolf river, where they rejoined the command. 

Major Long returned to the seat of general government during the wins, and was accom- 
panied the next spring by Captain John R. Bell, United States army, who took the place of 
Major Biddle, and by Dr. E. James, as botanist and geologist, in the place of Dr. Baldwin and 
Mr. Jessup, the former having died while ascending the Missouri river. Lieutenant Graham 
returned from Engineer Cantonment with the steamboat. 

On the 6th of June, 1820, Major Long left Engineer Cantonment, and proceeding nearly 
west reached the Platte river, up which he travelled to the mouth of Loup Fork, and thence 
continued along the north side of this fork to the Grand Pawnee village. Here crossing the 
river he took a course nearly south to the Platte, striking it about forty miles below where Fort 
Kearny now stands. The party then followed the north side of the Platte as far as the forks; 
crossed both forks and travelled up the right bank of the South Fork to the place where it 
escapes from the Rocky mountains. They then examined the mountains from the South Fork 
of the Platte to the Arkansas. 

Dr. James, with two men, ascended and examined the Grand Peak described by Major Pike, 
and determined the rock to be of the primitive formation. In the narrative this is called 
James’ Peak. By triangulation Lieutenant Swift found it 8,500 feet above his place of obser- 
vation, which was estimated at 3,000 feet above the sea. Captain Frémont, in his report and 
map of explorations in 1843 and 1844, calls it Pike’s Peak, probably because it was so called by 
the white people in the country at the time of his exploration, and this is the name which it 
now bears. To Mr. James, it would seem, should belong the honor of giving his name to this 
noted peak, as he was the first explorer to reach its summit. Major Long in his notes says, 
‘from the information received from hunters and trappers it was believed that no one, either 
civilized or savage, had ever ascended it before," and adds, that ‘‘ Dr. James having accomplished 
this difficult and arduous task, I have thought proper to call the peak after his name.’’ 

The elevation of Lieutenant Swift’s point of observation must have been, according to Captain 
Frémont’s barometric determinations, about 6,000 feet above the sea. This would make the 
elevation of Pike’s Peak about 14,500 feet—about 1,000 feet higher than Frémont’s Peak, in 
the Wind River mountains. A high peak, which gave Major Long’s party the first glimpse of 
the Rocky mountains, has since been known as Long’s Peak. It stands just west of St. Vrain’s 
Fort, from which it is distant about forty miles; and although the party did not approach it 
nearer than this, Major Long considers it much higher than Pike’s Peak. 

Major Long’s party then proceeded south to the Arkansas, which they followed up to the 
gorge, where it comes out of the mountains. In this neighborhood are some mineral springs, 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To A. p. 1832. 25 


which they named Bell's Springs, after Major Bell. The command was divided on the Arkansas, 
about twenty-five miles above Old Bent's Fort. One detachment, under Major Bell, explored 
the Arkansas to Fort Smith, continuing all the way on the left bank. "The other, under Major 
Long, left the Arkansas, and travelling in a direction a little east of south, intended to strike the 
sources of Red river and explore that stream toits mouth. They, however, tookthe Canadian for 
the Red river, and proceeding down its valley did not discover their mistake until they reached 
the Arkansas. The most western sources of the Canadian lie about 150 miles in a straight line 
west of the place where Major Long first struck it. 

This was the third attempt by exploring parties, under the United States government, 
to discover the sources of Red river. The explorations of Major Long’s expedition, made 
in Arkansas and Missouri on their return, have been replaced by the surveys of the United 
States Land Office. The only portions of the route of this exploration which have not been re-ex- 
amined are the trails from the Arkansas to the Canadian, and from the Great Bend of the 
Arkansas to Fort Gibson. 

The astronomical observations by Major Long, Lieutenant Graham, and Lieutenant Swift, 
consisted of altitudes and lunar distances by the sextant, and eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, 
observed with a four feet telescope. The relation of their determinations to those of subse- 
quent parties will be discussed hereafter. "Their barometers were all broken before they 
reached the forks of the Platte. On the map which was made by Major Long we see the 
Black Hills of Nebraska represented as a north and south range, differing from Lewis and Clarke's 
map, which gave them a northwest trend. This is the first original map which represents 
this range as running north. 


MAJOR LONG’S EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCE OF THE ST. PETER'S RIVER. 


The work I have consulted is entitled ‘‘ Travels in the Interior of North America, with the 
particulars of an Expedition to the Lakes, and the source of the St. Peter s river. By Messrs. Long, 
Keating, and Colhoun ; in two volumes. London: Printed for G. B. Whittaker, Ave Maria lane.— 
1828." It is accompanied by a map, on a scale of 35 miles to an inch, exhibiting the route of 
the expedition. It includes the area limited on the northeast by a line drawn from Lake 
Winnipeg to the east end of Lake Ontario; on the southeast by a line from Lake Ontario to 
Pittsburg; on southwest by one from Cincinnati to Rock Island, in the laine and on 
the See ae rom the Mandan villages to Lake Winnipeg- 

This ( commanded by Major S. H. Long, toptgnafidi ab imyltsor, bó was 
assisted by Thomas Say, zoologist, antiquarian, and botanist; William H. Keating, mineralogist 
and geologist; and James C. Colhoun, astronomer, who was supplied with a sextant and 
pocket chronometer. Distances were estimated and courses taken by compasses. Mr. Say 
and Mr. Keating, by the latter of whom the published narrative was written, acted as joint 
literary journalists. They started from Philadelphia in April, 1823; travelled to Wheeling; 
thence to Columbus; thence to Fort Wayne, on the Miami river, where they obtained a few 
soldiers to accompany them, and thence to the southern extremity of Lake Michigan. The 
journey between these last two places was through a wilderness, and on reaching Chicago they 
found it to consist ‘‘of a few miserable huts, inhabited by a miserable race of men," though it 
was, ‘‘ perhaps, one of the oldest settled places in the Indian country." From this point they 

proceeded through the unknown wilderness to Fort Crawford or Prairie du Chien, at the junc- 
tion of the Wisconsin and Mississippi rivers. From this point one portion proceeded rapidly 
i 


26 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To A. p. 1832. 


by land up the right bank of the Mississippi to Fort Snelling. The other part arrived there 
soon after by water. This place had been visited by Major Long in 1817, and its site recom- 
mended for a permanent military post, which was established in 1819. 

At Fort Snelling Colonel Leavenworth furnished Major Long with a new escort, consisting 
of an officer, three non-commissioned officers, and eighteen soldiers, making the whole party 
consist of thirty-three men. This was the first authentic exploration to the sources of the St. 
Peter’s or Minnesota river, though its lower portions had probably been visited by M. Le Sueur 
as early as 1695.—(See Keating’s narrative of Major Long’s expedition for an interesting 
account of its first discovery.) The expedition ascended the river both by land and water to 
its source in Big Stone lake, and passed the divide between it and Lac Traverse, which, in 
high water, is sometimes submerged so that the two lakes unite. They then proceeded 
down Swan river (now called Bois de Sioux river) to its junction with Red river, and along the 
valley of the latter to its intersection by the 49th parallel, determining this point by astronom- 
ical observations. It was Major Long’s intention, according to his instructions, to continue 
along the 49th parallel to Lake Superior, but being convinced of the impracticability of so 
doing by representations made to him, he continued down the valley of Red river, through 
the British possessions, to Fort Gerry, at the mouth of Assiniboin river, and thence to Lake 
Winnipeg, and along its southern shore to Fort Alexander, at the mouth of Winnipeg river. 
From this place the party ascended the Winnipeg river to Lake of the Woods, across this to 
Rainy Lake river, up this to Rainy lake, across this lake, Sturgeon lake, and the chain of lakes, 
to Thousand lake, where they made the Portage du Prairie to the source of Dog river, and 
proceeded down this stream to Fort William, on Lake Superior, making seventy-two portages 
after leaving Lake Winnipeg. The scenery along this portion of the route is described as very 
picturesque, abounding in falls, cascades, rapids, lakes, and islands. The Falls of Kakabeka, 
on Dog river, near Lake Superior, are 130 feet high. 

From Fort William the command coursed along ‘‘the dreary northern shore of Lake Supe- 
rior” by water to the Saute St. Mary, which may be considered the terminus of the expedition. 
The astronomer, Mr. Colhoun, made numerous observations, which embraced every kind of 
which a sextant is capable. Our knowledge of the route has been improved by other ex- 
plorers from the mouth of the St. Peter’s river to the 49th parallel, but from that point to the 
mouth of Dog river this map is our only authority along the route explored. The Shayenne 
river, which Major Long supposed to be only fifty miles long, has since been shown to have a 
valley about 300 miles in length. 


J. C. BROWN’S SURVEY OF ROAD FROM FORT OSAGE TO TAOS, 1825-6-7. 


In the Topographical Bureau there is one map, in two sheets, of this survey, on a scale of 
four miles to an inch, another on a scale of twelve miles to an inch, and a third on a scale of 
four miles to an inch, in thirty-one sections, ‘‘of the road surveyed and marked out from the 
western frontier of Missouri near Fort Osage, to San Fernando de Taos, near Santa Fé, in 
New Mexico, by order of the government of the United States, in the years 1825, 1826, and 
1827, with accurate and minute notes and directions for the use of travellers," which begins 
thus: ‘‘ The following pages contain a map of the road, as surveyed and marked out from the 
frontier of Missouri to Taos, the first settlement in the direction to Santa Fé, under the direc- 
tion of Benjamin Reeves, George C. Sibley, and Thomas Mather, commissioners appointed by 
the President of the United States for that purpose." 


: و‎ Egi eee ei quaesitum 


سم یموب 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To a. D. 1832. 27 


This survey was made with a chain and compass, corrected by observations for latitude with 
a good sextant. The longitudes were referred to the meridian of Fort Osage, which was 
taken at 93° 51' 03". This road is that of the Santa Fé trail, along the divide between the 
Kansas and Arkansas rivers. It strikes the latter stream near the Plum Buttes, and follows 
up its valley to Choteau's island. Here it turns southward to the Cimarron river, follows this 
stream about eighty-seven miles, and then bears off to the Rabbit/s Ear creek, which is marked 
on this map as the head of the north fork of the Canadian. Continuing west, the road enters 


` the mountains near the source of Ocate river, and terminates at Taos. 


These maps, though not displaying great skill in topographical representation, were con- 
structed from a survey more elaborate than any subsequent one over the same route. They 
are, therefore, of much value at the present time. The names now in use along the line were 
many of them given by this party. I am not aware that the original map and notes have ever 
been published. 


R. RICHARDSON'8 SURVEY OF ROAD FROM LITTLE ROCK TO FORT GIBSON, 1826. 


The map of this road, in the Topographical Bureau, is constructed on a scale of four miles 
to an inch. The survey was made, I believe, with a chain and compass, and is valuable as 
showing the relative longitudes of Fort Smith and Fort Gibson. It does not seem to have 
been used on late compilations. 


NORTHWEST BOUNDARY COMMISSION, 1828. 


The commissioners appointed under the treaty of Ghent for ascertaining and establishing 
the north and northwestern boundary between the United States and Great Britain, made a 
decision, (June 18, 1822,) at Utica, New York, which was published by a resolution of the 
United States House of Representatives in 1828. As this publication extends their labors no 
further west than the outlet to Lake Superior, the information and maps do not relate to the 
region under consideration. I believe that the surveys made under the commission were 
extended as far west as the Lake of the Woods, and according to these the boundary line was 
fixed in the second article of the Ashburton treaty. In the State Department there is a map, 
in five sheets, on a scale of an inch to two miles, à reduction of which was published on 
Nicollet's map of the hydrographical basin of the Upper Mississippi. The original maps have 
the following title: ** Map of a part of certain surveys along the water communications north- 
ward of Lake Superior, commencing at the mouth of the Pigeon river and extending westward 
to Lake Namekan; made by order of the honorable the commissioners under the sixth and 
seventh articles of the treaty of Ghent. 

“Signed: ‘PETER B. PORTER, e 
“u ANTH. BARCLAY, | Commissioners. 
“I. FERGUSON, Surveyor. 
" GEORGE W. WHISTLER, JU. S. Artillery, 
** Draughtsman and Assistant Surveyor." 


BRITISH ADMIRALTY CHART OF LAKE SUPERIOR, 1828. 


This chart, published from reconnaissances made by Lieutenant H. W. Bayfield, R. N., are, 
to this day, the best we have of the northern shore of Lake Superior. 


28 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To A. p. 1832. 


LIEUTENANT HARDY, R. N.—EXAMINATION OF GULF OF CALIFORNIA, 1825-’26~’27-'28. 


Lieutenant Hardy visited the whole coast of the Gulf from Mazatlan around by the mouth 
of the Colorado to Loredo, in search of pearl fisheries. He did not determine any position® 
by astronomical observations, and his map has not been used by me. 


ROSS COX.—ADVENTURES ON THE COLUMBIA RIVER. 


This book is entitled **Adventures on the Columbia River, including a Narrative of six 
years on the Western side of the Rocky Mountains among various tribes of Indians hitherto 
unknown, together with a Journey across the American Continent: By Ross Cox. Published 
by J. J. Harper, New York.—1832." 

The journey across the continent was made up the Columbia to one of its a sources, 
crossing the Rocky mountains at the head of the Athabasca river, near Mount Hooker, in about 
latitude 52° 10 north. The book is very interesting and instructive in regard to the early 
operations of the fur companies. 


RECONNAISSANCE OF THE SOURCES OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, BY LIEUTENANT J. ALLEN, U. S. A., 1832. 


The report of Lieutenant Allen, with map, on a scale of 5.75 miles to an inch, exhibiting 
the Mississippi river from Lake Pepin to its source, together with the country adjacent to his 
routes, is printed in Ex. Doc. No. 323, 1st session 23d Congress. 

He states that ‘‘the route of the expedition was up Lake Superior to Fond du Lac; thence 
up the Fond du Lac river ninety-one miles to the mouth of the East Savanne river, and across 
by the latter river, the Savanne portage, and the West Savanne river, to Sandy lake and the 
Mississippi; thence up the Mississippi, through Lake Winnipeg, Upper Red Cedar or Cass lake, 
and Lac Traverse, to Lac la Biche or Elk lake, the source of the river; thence returning back to 


Cass lake, and across the country by small lakes and portages to the source of Crow Wing river, - 


and down this to the Mississippi river again; down the Mississippi fifty-nine miles below the 
Falls of St. Anthony to the St. Croix river, up the latter to its source in upper Lake St. Croix, 
and thence down the Bois Brule river to Lake Superior again, twenty miles from Fond du Lac 
river, by which we had left the lake on our way up, and thence back to St. Ste. Marie, the 
point from which we started. We were about eighty days, between the 6th of June and 26th 
of August, and travelled in that time-2,000 miles. * * * *” 

“I was not furnished with, nor could I procure at Fort Brady, any instruments by which to 
fix, from astronomical observations, the true geographical positions of points necessary to be 
known for the construction of an accurate map; and to obviate this inconvenience I had 
recourse to a method of tracing the whole route between the few points fixed and given by the 
observations of former travellers. For this purpose a compass, the only instrument I had, was 
placed in my canoe, where it was constantly under my eye; and as the canoe proceeded in the 
line of a river, I carried my observations from the compass to a field-book at every bend or 
change of direction, thus delineating in my field-book all the bends of the river precisely as 
they occurred; and by establishing a scale of proportions in the lengths of the reaches, I was 
also in this way enabled to lay down and preserve the general curve of a river with surprising 
accuracy, as was tested afterwards in constructing on my map the routes of rivers between 
known points. The distances were estimated with great pains and care, and from the combined 
judgment of all the gentlemen of the party. * * * 


eee eee | 


MICE A TEE eee See ST eee ee ee ee T SV 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D, 1800 To A, p. 1832. 29 


‘t Qn the portion of the Mississippi above Cass lake, which was the least known of any part 
of the river and route, I bestowed on the tracing and computing of distances the most unre- 
mitted attention." 

To Lieutenant Allen we are indebted for the first topographical and hydrographical delinea- 
tion of the source of the Mississippi, and this, somewhat improved by Mr. Nicollet, is our 
authority at the present day for the Mississippi above the mouth of Swan river. Lieutenant 
Allen was a companion of Mr. H. R. Schoolcraft, whose labors and writings are so well known. 


SCHOOLCRAFT’S NARRATIVE OF THE EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCE OF THE MISSISSIPPI IN 1832. 


The title of this work is as follows: '' Narrative of an Expedition through the Upper Mississippi 
to Itasca Lake, the actual source of this river, embracing an exploration through the St. Croix and 
Burntwood (or Brule) rivers, in 1832, under the direction of Henry R. Schoolcraft. New York, 
Published by Harper & Brother, No. 82 Cliff street.—1834.’’ This book is embellished by ‘‘A 
sketch of the sources of the Mississippi river, drawn from Lieutenant Allen’s observations in 
1832, to illustrate t inland journey to Itasca lake, in two sheets, on a scale of about 
11 miles to an inc 

Mr. Schoolcraft’ 8 -— on the expedition, in 1832, was to aklini a reconciliation of the 
difficulties between the Chippeway and Sioux Indians. The routes he pursued were nearly 
those mapped by Lieutenant Allen, as already described. 

In the same book is a brief account of Mr. Schoolcraft’ s examinations, in 1831, (in connexion 
with his duties in relation to Indian affairs) of the country between Lake Superior and the 
Mississippi. His route lay up the Mauvaise or Bad river to its source, and thence down the 
Chippeway to its mouth. 

Mr. Schoolcraft had also accompanied General Lewis Cass in his expedition to the sources of 
the Mississippi in 1820, at which time the highest point reached was the lake called Red Cedar 
by Pike, but since generally known as Cass lake. 

Mr. Schooleraft published a beautiful description of this expedition, called *' Narrative 
Journal of Travels from Detroit, northwest through the great chain of American Lakes, to the 
sources of the Mississippi river, in the year 1820. By Henry R. Scoooleraft. Albany: Published 
by Es. «£ E. Hosford.—1821.’’ It is accompanied by a map on a scale of 65 miles to an inch, 
biting the region bounded by the 1st and 21st meridians west from Washington, and the 
41st and 51st parallels. 

The Misissippi river, extreme sources Messrs. Allen and Schoolcraft have the oai 
of first exploring, was discovered by Hernando de Soto, who reached its banks probably near 
Memphis, in 1541. Father Marquette and Sieur Joilet first saw it in 1673. Father Hennepin 
visited it in 1680, and named the St. Peter’s river and the Falls of St. Anthony. The mouth 
was discovered in 1683 by the Sieur La Salle, who sailed down the Illinois river to the Missis- 
sippi, and navigated it to the Gulf of Mexico. M. Le Sueur visited it probably as early as 
1695, at which time he discovered the blue earth on the St. Peters. In 1702 he floated two 
thousand pounds of this material to the mouth of the Mississippi. These statements in regard 
to the discovery of the Mississippi I have taken principally from Mr. Keating's narrative of 
Major Long's expedition to the sources of the St. Peter's river. 

We are indebted to Captain Jonathan Carver, who visited the Upper Mississippi in 
1166— 68, for much of our early knowledge of the Upper Mississippi valley, although some of 
his statements must be received with caution. He claims to have first conceived the 1dea of 


30 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1800 To 4. D. 1832. 


passing from the sources of the Missouri to the Pacific Ocean. An expedition to this effect was 
actually fitted out by the aid of Mr. Whitworth, when the growing troubles of the colonies 
with the mother country led to its abandonment. 

Mr. Schoolcraft says, in his introductory observations on the sources of the Mississippi, that 
‘American geography may be said to have had three important problems to solve in modern 
times. The first and second of these related to the source of the Missouri and the course and 
termination of the Columbia. Both were substantially resolved by the expedition of Lewis 
and Clarke, under the administration of Jefferson," &c. ‘‘The true source of the Mississippi, 
which forms the third topic of inquiry, was brought into discussion at the same period." 
Messrs. Allen and Schooleraft resolved this third important problem, so that it might seem, 
according to Mr. Schoolcraft, that American geography had no more problems to solve. Lewis 
and Clarke did probably determine the source of the Missouri, although it is yet a question if 
the Yellowstone river, with its affluent, the Bighorn; may not be a still more distant source. 
The character of the Missouri below the mouth of the Yellowstone is, however, so similar to 
that above, and so different from the Yellowstone itself, that the name of the main river was 
properly given to the branch which now bears it. Of the Columbia, however, Lewis and 
Clarke determined but little, and that only below the junction of Lewis Fork. Its source, 
even to this day, is undetermined by any accurate exploration. But if these were the great 
problems of modern American geography, surely there were more than three. The sources of 
the Rio Grande del Norte, of the Yellowstone, of the Great Colorado of the West, might have 
been considered of equal importance, and the discovery since of large lakes of salt water, of 
large basins and long rivers with no outlets to the ocean, show that the field was not yet 
deprived of objects of great geographical interest. 


A. PER MAP OF NORTH AMERICA: PHILADELPHIA, 1826. 


Igive lesen a reduced copy of a portion of this map (Plate IIT) which purports to include 
‘tall the recent geographical discoveries" up to that date. On this we see Rio los Mongos and 
Rio Timpanogos flowing from Lake Timpanogos to the Pacifie, from near the true position of 
Great Salt Lake, and the Rio Buenaventura flowing from Lake Salado to the Pacific. At what 
time and for what reason these rivers gained a place on the maps of that period I am not 
acquainted. The Multonomah (Willamette) is still represented as heading to the east of the 
Cascade range. This map shows that no advancement had been made in accurate knowledge 
of the regions west of the Rocky mountains since the exploration of Lewis and Clarke. 


CO aan یی سید ار‎ eee ee ee BM 


CHAPTER II. 
EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1899 TO A. D. 1844. 


CAPTAIN BONNEVILLE, U. 8. A., EXPEDITION, 1832 To 1836.—DISCOVERY OF GREAT IRVING'S ASTORIA. ~ 
LIEUTENANT E. STERN, U. 8. A., MAP, 1835.—TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU, MAP OF WESTERN FRONTIER, 1837.—C. DIMMOCK, C. E., SURVEY, 
1838.—CAPTAIN W. HOOD, T. E, MEMOIR AND MAP, 1839 —TOoPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU, MAP OF OREGON, 1838 EY BOUNDARY, 
LOUISIANA AND TEXAS, 1840.—CoMMANDER WILKES, U. 8. N, MAP OF OREGON, 1841,—KENDALL'S SANTA FE EXPEDITION, 1841.— 
PROFESSOR NICOLLET’S EXPLORATION AND MAP, i —Loormusr J. €. FREMONT, T. E., EXPLORATION, 1842.—CAPTAIN ۰ 
BOONE, U. S. A, EXPEDITION, 1843.—ŪAPTAIN J. ALLEN, U. B. A., EXPEDITION, 1843.— TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU, MAP OF TEXAS, 1844.— 
GREGG’S COMMERCE OF THE 1844, 


BONNEVILLE'S EXPEDITION TO ROCKY MOUNTAINS, 1832—'33,-'34,-'35,-' 36. 

THE narrative I have perused is entitled ‘‘ The Rocky Mountains; or, Scenes, Incidents, and 
Adventures in the Far West; digested from the Journal of Captain B. L. E. Bonneville, of the 
army of the United States, and illustrated from various other sources. By Washington Irving. 
In two volumes. Philadelphia: Carey, Lea & Blanchard.—1837.’’ This is accompanied by two 
maps: one on a scale of twenty-three miles to an inch, showing the sources of the Missouri, Yellow- 
stone, Platte, Green, Bear, Snake, and Salmon rivers, and a portion of Lake Bonneville, (Great 
Salt lake;) the other, on a scale of fifty miles to an inch, giving the country from the Rocky 
mountains to the Pacific, between the parallels of 38° and 49° north latitude. 

Captain Bonneville’s explorations were made in prosecution of the fur trade, which was his 
principal object, and very great accuracy in the map is not, therefore, to be expected. His 
letter of instructions, from Major General Macomb, dated Washington, August 3, 1831, contains 
the following directions: ‘‘The leave of absence which you have asked, for the purpose of 
enabling you to carry into execution your design of exploring the country to the Rocky moun- 
tains and beyond, * * * * has been duly considered and submitted to the War Department 
for approval, and has been sanctioned. You are, therefore, authorized to be absent from the 
army till October, 1833. It is understood that the government is to be at no expense in 
reference to your proposed expedition, it having originated with yourself. * * * * You 
will, naturally, in preparing yourself for the expedition, provide suitable instruments." 

On the 1st of May, 1832, Captain Bonneville, with a train of wagons, took his departure 
from Fort Osage, and proceeded up the Missouri to the mouth of the Kansas. Crossing this 
stream, he followed very nearly the present travelled road to the Platte, thence along this 
river to the forks, and up the South Fork for two days. Here ferrying his party over, he struck 
across to the North Fork, followed it to the Sweetwater, and thence up that stream to its 
source in the South Pass. From this point he proceeded northwesterly to Green river, where 
he established his grand depot, near the mouth of Horse creek, and abandoned his wagons.* 
Having organized several hunting parties, he proceeded towards the northwest along the upper 
sources of Green and Snake rivers, until he reached Salmon river. The winter was passed on 
the upper portion of this stream and in travelling over the Great Lava plain or Shoshonee 
valley between it and the Snake river. In the spring a grand rendezvous was held at the 

۶ There were at this time two rival companies trading in this region—the American Fur Company and the Rocky Mount- 
ain Fur Oompany—both having their principal rendezvous at “ Pierre's Hole," in the valley of Pierre's river, an affluent of 
Snake or Lewis’ river. 


32 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 


caches, in the Green River valley. Having made his arrangements for the year, he visited the 
Great Salt lake, and saw its northern portions. ‘‘To have this lake properly explored and s 
its secrets revealed was the grand scheme of the captain for the present year. * * i 

This momentous undertaking he confided to Mr. Walker, in whose experience and ability he had 
great confidence." ‘‘He instructed him to keep along the shores of the lake, and trap in all 
the streams on his route. He was also to keep a journal and minutely to record the events of 
his journey and everything curious or interesting, and make maps or charts of his route and of 
the surrounding country." No pains nor expense were spared in fitting out this party, which 
was composed of forty men. "They had complete supplies for a year, and were to meet Captain 
Bonneville in the ensuing summer in the valley of Bear river, the largest tributary of Salt lake. 

This party endeavored to proceed south over the great barren salt plain lying to the west 
of the lake, but their sufferings became so great, and the danger of perishing so imminent, 
that they abandoned the proposed route, and struck to the northwest for some snowy 
mountains in the distance. Thus they came upon Ogden's (Humboldt) river, and followed 
down it to the ''sinks," or place where it loses itself in the sand. Continuing on, they 
crossed the Sierra Nevada, in which they were entangled for 23 days, suffering very much from 
hunger, and finally reached the waters of the Sacramento; thence turning south they stopped 
at the Mission of Monterey. After a considerable sojourn the party started to return. Instead 
of retracing their steps through the Sierra Nevada, they passed round its southern extremity, 
and crossing a range of low hills, found themselves in the sandy plains south of Ogden's river, 
where they again suffered grievously from want of water. On this journey they encountered 
some Mexicans, two of whom accompanied them to the rendezvous appointed by Captain 
Bonneville. The return route of this party probably was nearly that taken by Captain 
Frémont in 1842, and known as the Santa Fé trail to California. They thus travelled quite 
around the Great Basin system. 

While this expedition was in progress, Captain Bonneville made an excursion to the head- 
waters of the Yellowstone. Leaving Green river he moved east to the sources of the Sweet- 
water, so as to turn the Wind River mountains at their southeast extremity; thence, striking 
the head of the Popo Agie, he passed down it to Wind river, which he followed through the 
gap of the Little Horn mountains, and through the Big Horn range. Below these mountains 
the river becomes navigable for canoes, and takes the name of the Big Horn river. From this 
point he returned to Wind river and attempted to cross the Wind River mountains direct to his 
caches on Green river. In this he was foiled by the chasms and precipices and compelled to 
take his former route around their southeastern extremity. From the depot he went up to the 
sources of Green river, crossed the mountains between its source and that of Wind river, and 
again returned to Green river by the Sweetwater. He then passed over the mountains to the 
Bear River valley, and thence to the Port Neuf river, where he established his winter quarters. 

During the winter he started to visit the Columbia, passing down the Snake River valley, 
through the Grand Ronde and over the Blue mountains, to Walla-Walla. He returned to Bear 
river in the succeeding June. On the 3d of July, 1834, he made a second visit to the Columbia, 
and returned to spend the winter on Bear river. In 1835 he returned home* by way of the 
Platte river. 

# Captain Bonneville's long-continued absence se the expiration of his leave, during which time no news was received 
from him at the War Department, led to hi dropped from the Army Register. He was, however, restored, and 
now holds the commission of colonel of the third abun. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 33 


Captain Bonneville's maps, which accompany the edition of Irving's work, published by 
Carey, Lea & Blanchard, in 1837, (the later editions generally do not give the original maps,) 
are the first to correctly represent the hydrography of this region west of the Rocky mountains. 
Although the geographical positions are not accurate, yet the existence of the great interior 
basins, without outlets to the ocean, of Great Salt lake, of Mary's or Ogden's river, (named 
afterwards Humboldt by Captain Frémont,) of the Mud lakes, and of Sevier river and lake, 
was determined by Captain Bonneville's maps, and they proved the non-existence of the Rio Buena- 
ventura and of other hypothetical rivers. "They reduced the Wallamuth or Multonomah (Willa- 
mette) river to its proper length, and fixed approximately its source, and determined the 
general extent and direction of the Sacramento and San Joaquin rivers. The map of the 
sources of the Yellowstone is still the best original one of that region. 

As there is no name on the published map to show by whom it was constructed, I wrote to 
Colonel Bonneville in relation thereto, enclosing him a copy of the map. I make the following 
extracts from his reply: - 


“Ga River, N. M., August 24, 1857. 

** DEAR SIR: I thank you for your desire to do me justice as regards my map and explorations 
in the Rocky mountains. I started for the mountains in 1832. * * * * J left the 
mountains in July, 1836. and reached Fort Leavenworth, Missouri, the 6th of August following. 
During all this time I kept good account of the course and distances, with occasional observa- 
tions with my quadrant and Dolland's reflecting telescope. * * * * * I plotted my 
work, found it proved, and made it into three parts: one a map of the waters running east to 
the Missouri State line; a second of the mountain region itself; and a third, which appears to 
be the one you have sent me, of the waters running west. On the map you send I recognize 
my names of rivers, of Indian tribes, observations, Mary's or Maria's river, running southwest, 
ending in a long chain of flat lakes, never before on any map, and the record of the battle 
between my party and the Indians, when twenty-five were killed. This party clambered over 
the California range, were lost in it for twenty days, and entered the open locality to the west, 
not far from Monterey, where they wintered. In the spring they went south from Monterey, 
and turned the southern point of the California range to enter the Great Western Basin. 
all the maps of those days the Great Salt lake had two great outlets to the Pacific Ocean: one of 
these was the Buenaventura river, which was supposed to head there; the name of the other 
I do not recollect. Tt was from my explorations and those of my party alone that it was ascer- 
tained that this lake had no outlet; that the California range basined all the waters of its eastern 
slope without further outlet; that the Buenaventura and all other California streams drained 
only the western slope. It was for this reason that Mr. W. Irving named the salt lake after 
me, and he believed I was fairly entitled to it. The Great Lava plain was never known as 
such; until my report drew attention to its character, it was even confidently asserted that 
there was no prismatic basalt columns in that region. I saw it perfectly formed once only, and 
this on Snake river, below Gun creek. The Three Buttes have often been my camping ground. 
I wintered once on Salmon river, by my observation 45° 50’ 24” north latitude. It was from 
my observations and plotting that the headwaters of Snake river, of the Columbia, Muscle 
Shell, and Yellowstone; headwaters of the Missouri and Sweetwater, of the Platte, and those 
of the Colorado of the West, were brought together in one view, as reported in my journal; 


34 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 TO A. D. 1844. 


before this these heads of rivers were scattered far and wide. I gave Mr. Washington Irving 
the three maps I mention; and as the publication was by Carey, Lea & Blanchard, the originals 
may, perhaps, be found with them. The earliest editions have maps of my making. The one 
you refer to me I have no doubt is one of the three maps I made. 
* Yours, &c., 
"B. L. E. BONNEVILLE, 
** Colonel 3d Infantry. 

“Lieut. G. K. Warren, Topographical Engineers." 

A reduced copy of the map of the Great Basin and sources of the Yellowstone are given 
with this memoir. Application was made to Mr. Irving and to the publishers of the work to 
obtain, if possible, the original maps, but they could not be found, as so considerable a period 
had elapsed that they had been lost or mislaid. 

Colonel Benton, in his ''Thirty Years View," page 580, says of Frémont’s second expe- 
dition: ‘He was at Fort Vancouver, guest of the hospitable Dr. McLaughlin, governor of the 
British Hudson Bay Fur Company, and obtained from him all possible information upon his 
intended line of return, faithfully given, but which proved to be disastrously erroneous in its 
leading and governing feature." * * * * “All maps up to that time had shown this 
region traversed from east to west, from the base of the Rocky mountains to the bay of San 
Francisco, by a great river called the Buenaventura, which may be translated the good chance. 
Frémont believed in it, and his plan was to reach it before the dead of winter, and then 
hibernate upon it.’ 

It is evident that Colonel Benton had never seen Captain a s map, or he would not 
have written this paragraph. 


EARLY DISCOVERIES IN THE GREAT BASIN. 


The exploration of the Great Salt lake was a favorite object with Captain Bonneville; 
though called Lake Bonneville by Mr. Irving, its existence was well known to the traders and 
trappers on his arrival in that country, as was also that of the Ogden’s or Mary’s river. A 
short account of the first discoveries in this region may not be inappropriate in this place. 

In Captain Stansbury’s report, page 151, he says: ‘‘The existence of a large lake of salt 
water, somewhere amid the wilds west of the Rocky mountains, seems to have been known, 
vaguely, as long as 150 years since. As early as 1689 the Baron la Hontan * * * wrote 
an account of discoveries in this region, which was published in the English language in 1735.”’ 
This narrative of La Hontan of his journey up ‘‘ La Rivière Longue,” flowing into the Missis- 
sippi from the west, has for more than a century been considered fabulous. It is sporen of 
even by Captain Stansbury as an ''imaginative voyage up this most imaginary river,” up 
which La Hontan claims to have sailed. for six weeks without reaching the source. During 
this voyage he learned from four Mozeemlek slaves belonging to the Indians living on the river 
“that, at the distance of one hundred and fifty leagues from the place he then was, their prin- 
cipal river empties itself into a salt lake of 300 leagues i in circumference, the mouth of which 
is two leagues broad; that the lower part of that river is adorned with six noble cities, 
surrounded with stone cemented with fat earth; that the houses of these cities have no roofs, 
but are open above, like a platform, as you see them drawn on the map; that, besides the 
above-mentioned cities, there are above a hundred towns, great and small, round that sort of 

sea, upon which they — with such boats as you see drawn on the map," &c. 


— 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 35 


Now, this description does not, in any particular, correspond with the Great Salt lake; and, 
if it was told by the savages to the Baron, might, with as much if not far greater propriety, 
be considered as referring to the Pacific ocean, with the Columbia flowing into it. 

The story of La Hontan excited much speculation and received various additions in his day; 
and the lake finally became represented on the published English maps of as late date as 1826 
(see Plate III) as being the source of two great navigable rivers flowing into the South Sea. 
Here it was that historians supposed the Aztecs were located before their migration to Mexico. 

Father Escalante, in 1776, travelled from near Santa Fé, New Mexico, in a northwesterly 
direction, to the Great Colorado. After crossing it and passing to the southwest through the 
country near its western bank, he turned again to the southeast, recrossed the stream, and 
proceeded to the Gila. During this journey he probably was in the vicinity of Utah lake. 
He there met with Indians who told him of a lake to the north whose waters produced a 
burning sensation when they touched the skin.* This lake was perhaps the Great Salt lake; 
and its property of making a burning sensation when applied to the skin was probably the 
effect of the strong solution of salt which it contains. This lake was not visited by Father 
Escalante; and that which he represents on his map, and which is copied on Humboldt’s New 
Spain as Lake Timpanogos, was probably what is now called Lake Utah, into Which’ a stream 
flows called by the Indians Timpanogos river. 

Being convinced that, down to the days of the American trappers, the Great Salt lake had 
never been seen by white men, nor definite knowledge about it obtained, I addressed a letter 
to Robert Campbell, esq., of St. Leuis, a gentlemen well known for یس سب‎ arie nerds "- the 
early Rocky mountain fur trade. The mE i is his reply: 

"Sr. Louvis, April 4, 1857. 

“DEAR Sm: Your favor of the 25th ultimo reached me at a very fortunate period to enable 
me to give you a satisfactory reply to your inquiry as to who was the first discoverer of the 
Great Salt lake. It happened that James Bridger and Samuel Tullock both met at my 
counting-room after a separation of eighteen years, and were bringing up reminiscences of 
the past when your letter reached me. I read it to them, and elicited the following facts: 

k TES A of gens. trappers who chad ascended the à Mippouri with Henry and Ashley found 


the water, o on his return reported his discovery. The fact of the water being salt induced 
the belief that it was an arm of the Pacific ocean; but, in the spring of 1826, four men went in 
skin boats around it to discover if any streams containing beaver were to be found emptying 
into it, but returned with indifferent success. - 

‘ went to the Willow or Cache valley in the spring of 1826, and found the party just 
returned from their exploration of the lake, and recollect their report that it was withoat any 


outlet. 
“Mr. Tallock corroborates in every respect the statement of James Bridger, and both are men 


? I have, by the assistance of Mr. Moreno, of the Spanish enin, examined a manuscript amr of this journey of 
Escalante, now in Colonel Force’s library. 


36 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 


of the strictest integrity and truthfulness. I have known ‘both since 1826. James Bridger 
was the first discoverer of Great Salt lake. 
“Iam happy in being able to give you the information and of the character that you wished for. 
** Your obedient servant, 
à “ROBERT CAMPBELL. 


“Lieut. G. K. WARREN, 
` “Topographical Engineers, Washington City. 


` * P. 8.—A party of the Hudson Bay Company trappers came to the same place in the summer 
of 1825, and met the party that had discovered the Salt lake that season." i 


The party of trappers from the Hudson Bay Company, bad to in the postscript to Mr. 
Campbell’s letter, was under the enterprising leader, Mr. Peter Ogden, who. discovered the 
Ogden's or Mary's river in 1825. One of Mr. Ogden's party took a woman for his wife from 


among the Indians found on this river, to whom the name of Mary was given. From this. 


circumstance the stream came to be called Mary's river. It is also called Ogden 8 river, after 
its discoverer. 


A portion of the Great Basin system was visited by Father Font ¢ as early as 177 ya near the | 


Mojave river, (which he called Rio de los Mortires.) . He followed. its course to the. place 
where it sinks, and then travelled east, crossing the Colorado at the Mojave valleys, and kept 
on as far as the Moquis villages. A copy of his map was procured i in California by Captain 
Ord, U. S. A., and is now on file in the Topographical Bureau. 


IRVING'S ASTORIA. 


۰ Astoria, or Anecdotes of an Enterprise beyond the Rocky Mountains. By Washington Irving. 
Author’ s revised edition, complete in one volume. New York: G. P. Putnam.—1849." ۰ It contains 
a reduced copy of Wilkes’ map of Oregon, and is the only edition at my command. - 

"This beautifully written book, published first, I believe, in 1836, contains an account of the 
voyages and journey performed by Mr. Astor'sparties. One of these, under Messrs. Hunt and 
Crook, went, in 1811-12, from the Arikaree village, on the Missouri, at the mouth of Grand 
or ''Big river," westward, through the Black Hills and Big Horn mountains, to Wind river, and 
thence to the sources of the Snake or Lewis river, and down that stream to the Columbia. 
Very few persons have ever traversed these Black Hills, and this narrative, though vague, is the 
first one extant of a journey through them. On Lewis and Clarke’s map these hills have a 
northwest trend, as they also have on the map compiled by Captain Hood in 1839. In both 

cases, however, this direction was given from reports and not examination. On Major Long’s 


map Loin his first expedition their direction is placed nearly north. In Irving's Astoria, how- 


ever, we find Chapter XXVI beginning thus: ** Mr. Hunt and his party were now on the skirts 
of the Black Hills, or Black mountains as they are sometimes called, an extended chain lying 


about a hundred miles east ‘of the Rocky mountains, and stretching, in a northeast direction, 


from the south fork of the Nebraska or Platte river to the great north bend of the Missouri." 
This is the authority that sustains the representation of these hills as it has been madè on a 
the published maps of late years. I became convinced, by observati ti 

Nebraska in 1855, (though the hills were: oily ora ab a duitanco FORMEL KNEE end fe soil: 


"E 
Z 


aru o iia 


-— 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1834. 31 


as represented. by Lewis and Clarke, and have so indicated them on my map of military 
reconnaissances in the Dakota country. The examinations made by me in 1857 somewhat 
modified that representation as regards their extent and position, but confirmed it in relation to 
the direction. 


MAE OF LIEUT. E. STEEN, T. 8. DRAGOONS, 1835. 


This map وهی‎ the NAM from the west boundary of س‎ and Missouri to. the 
Rocky mountains, between the 31st and 45th parallels, on a scale of twenty miles to an inch; 
it shows the route of the rangers, under Colonel Manny, in 1833, who made an excursion from 
Fort Gibson, westward, as far as the head of the Little river, and back, and of the routes of. 
the dragoons, under Colonel Dodge, in 1834~ 35. 

The expedition under Colonel Dodge, in the summer of 1834, went into the country lying 
between the Red and Canadian rivers as far west probably as longitude 100? 30, some seventy 
miles west of the Witchita mountains. This expedition, the object of which was to visit the 
Camanches and Pawnee picts, was very disastrous to the troops. General Leavenworth died 
of fever, and many officers and men perished from disease produced by the summer heats, bad 
water, and malaria. The report of Colonel Dodge (the only official one which I have seen) 
gives very little topographical information, and it would be difficult to trace out the exact 
route of the party. The artist, Mr. Catlin, was with the command; and a glowing account of 
the sufferings they underwent, and the places visited, with Kiss of scenes, can be seen in 
his work on the North American Indians. ' 

Captain R. B. Marcy, U. S. A., has since explored all this section, and information con- 


. cerning it can be found in his reports. 


The expedition under Colonel Dodge, in 1835, started from Fort Leavenworth, proceeded 
up the Platte and South Fork to its source; then travelled south to the Arkansas, and returned 
by it and the Santa Fé road to Fort erek 

: On the map of Lieutenant Steen the Cimarron river is — as flowing into the dilimi 
beum near the — of Fort Atkinson. 


PF ie 


"TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU MAP OF ‘THE WESTERN FRONTIER, 1837. 


Celta tad 


oi بخ‎ e e مینست‎ northwestern frontier, 
as proposed by Charles Gratiot, in his report of October 31, 1837, compiled in the United States 
T— M dot Medio United States Topographical 
Engineers, by Ws Hood. Uses mold TA و‎ as 

This map was published, (Senate document No. 65, palin 25th Congress,) on a scale of 


fifty miles to an inch. It embraces the territory of the United States from the Gulf of Mexico 


to the 45th e of north latitude, and from the PH river west to near the 103d 
meridian. 
- New Orleans and gt. Louis are both represented as iem in longitude 90° 25'. 


SURVEY OF C. DIMMOCK IN 1838. 


This s survey, nisle with chain and compass for a military road تن‎ the western ند‎ of 
Arkansas and Missouri, between Fort Smith and Fort Leavenworth, is still valuable between 
Old Fort Scott and Fort Smith, as it has not here been replaced by the United States Land Office 


۲ i 4 P Won. We T 
sutveyé « Sas dodo 


38 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To a. D. 1844. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU MAP OF OREGON, 1838. 


The title of this is **.4 map of the United States territory of Oregon west of the Rocky mountains, 
exhibiting the various trading depots or forts occupied by the British Hudson Bay Company con- 
nected with the western and northwestern fur trade, compiled in the Bureau of Topographical Engi- 
neers, from the latest authorities, under the direction of Colonel J. J. Abert, by oe Hood, 
1838. M. H. Stansbury, del." 


This map accompanies the report of Mr. "iii from ‘‘the select committee to thine was 


referred a bill to authorize the President of the United States to occupy the Oregon Territory, 
submitted to the Senate," which report forms Senate document 470, 2d session 25th Congress. 

The map is published on a scale of twenty-five miles to an inch, and embraces the Mu" 
of North America from the 38th to the 55th parallel west of the 102d meridian. à 

All of this map, between the 40th and 50th parallels, with some trifling changes, was pub- 
lished in Wyndham Robertson's work, entitled ‘‘Oregon, our Right and Title," &c., published 
in Washington, 1846. 

It appears as if the map of Captain Bonneville was used in making this compilation, but that 
full eredence was not given to his representations, for the Rio Buenaventura as well as Mary's 
river finds a placeon it. In order to accommodate both, Mary's (Humboldt) river was placed 
too far north, and the lakes into which it sinks were omitted. A doubtful character was given 


to the representation of the Rio Buenaventura, and it was indicated as joining with the Sacra- 


mento river by a stream called ‘ Debeption. river." 
MEMOIR AND MAP BY CAPTAIN HOOD, 1839. 

Captain Washington Hood, Topographical Engineers, while stationed on the Missouri frontier, 
compiled, in 1839, a map, on a scale of forty-two miles to an inch, of the country adjacent to 
the headwaters of the Missouri, the Yellowstone, the Salmon, the Lewis, and the Colorado, 
with various observations on the subject of the practicable passes or routes through the Rocky 
mountains to the Pacific, ‘‘ from information obtained in frequent conversations with two highly 
intelligent trappers, William A. Walker, of Virginia, and Mr. Coates, of Missouri, who belonged 
originally to Captain Bonneville’s party, but subsequently continued to roam the mountains as 
free trappers during six consecutive years; as also that derived from others, who were connected 
with surveys and expeditions as far to the westward as Santa Fé and Taos.’ 


‘This map is correct in its main features, but neither it nor the notes were ever published. 
The Black Hills and Big Horn mountains are represented with a general northwest trend... He 


recommended wood, sh Oregon from. the sources of the Big Shyenne through the Black Hills; 


thence westward, p rth of the Big Horn mount and striking the Yellowstone near the 


mouth of Twenty fivo liec k-th 1 +} Y tai tn tha +h ifr ot thin Missouri ; . 
J IC 3 


thence up the Jm» Fork e its porthens- Rey a over to the source of the Bitter. 


Root river. Betweenthe Black Hills and the Yellowstone this route has not yet been explored. 
From the Bitter Root river to the Pacific it has been fully explored by Governor Stevens. 
Captain Hood erroneously puts down the Bitter Root in source of the Salmon river. 


SURVEY OF THE BOUNDARY BETWEEN LOUISIANA. AND TEXAS IN 1840. 


— of the com 


TET 
oii eden inal asc acia idc d S ME 


nission will be found in Senate document No. 199, 2d session 27th 
Congress, and is accompanied by two maps: one, on a scale of one and a half mile to an inch, — 


sob ag dM X D UM Li Moe 


eee ES 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D 1832 To A. D. 1844. 39 


gives the Sabine river ; and the other, on a scale of four miles to an inch, represents the meridian 
boundary line between the Sabine and Red rivers, the initial point being the place where the 
Sabine is crossed by the parallel of 32° north latitude. 

The surveys on the part of the United States of the portion north of the Sabine river were 
made by Lieutenant Colonel James Kearney, Lieutenant J. Edm. Blake, and Lieutenant L. 
Sitgreaves, Topographical Engineers; and along the Sabine river by Major J. D. Graham, 
Lieutenant T. J. Lee, and Lieutenant G. G. Meade, Topographical Engineers, The رب‎ on 
the part of Texas were by Messrs. P. J. Pellows, D. C. Webber, and A. B. Gray. 

UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION UNDER COMMANDER CHARLES WILKES, U. S. N. - 

** Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition during the years 1838, 1839, 1840, 1841, 
and 1842, by Charles Wilkes, U. S. N., commander of the expedition, member of the American 
Philosophical Society, &c., in five volumes, and an atlas. Philadelphia: Lea & Blanchard.— 
1845.” The map extends from the 40th to the 53d parallel, and from the 106th meridian to the 
Pacific, on a scale of about forty-eight miles to an inch. 

This naval exploring expedition arrived in Oregon in 1841. 

A party under Lieutenant Johnson started from Nisqually, crossed the Cascades near Mount 
Rainier, and reached the Columbia near the mouth of the Pisquose river. Crossing the Columbia, 
they proceeded to Fort Okinikaine, thence to the mouth of the Spokane, and thence north to 
Fort Colville. They then turned south, visited the Mission, and, continuing on, struck the 
Kooskoosky, about forty miles below where Lewis and Clarke struck it; thence they travelled 
to Fort Walla-Walla. From this point they returned to Nisqually by the valley of the 
Yakima river, crossing the Cascade mountains at its source. 

The Columbia river was surveyed as far up as Walla-Walla, and a party was despatched up 
the valley of the Willamette, and thence to us sources of the Sacramento, down which they 
travelled to the mee "e ۱ 


KENDALL'S NARRATIVE—SANTA FÉ EXPEDITION, 1841. 
تیوه‎ "Wr Texan Santa Fé Expedition, comprising a description. of a tour through 


ae سوه‎ p the Camanche and Caygua hunting grounds, with 


m want of food, losses from hostile Indians, and final capture of the 
praa ond dd al ‘naire tir prose «i Mri o? Manteo; with illustrations and a map. By George 
Wilkins Kendall; in two volumes. New York: Harper & Brother, 82 Cliff street —1844 °’ The 
map is on a scale of 45 miles to an inch, bounded on the north by the 38th parallel, on the 
east by the 91st — on the south by the 19th parallel, and on the west by the 103d 
meridian. 

- This expedition left Austin, the capital of Texas, on the 21st of June, 1841. Mr. Kendall, 
the author of the Narrative, accompanied the expedition from motives of mere curiosity and & 
desire of travel, being fully impressed with the idea that it was entirely a commercial expedi- 
tion, and not one that would render null his passport received from the Mexican consul at New 
Orleans. The entire military force consisted of six companies, averaging 40 men each. "There 
was a large train of wagons containing the property of merchants who accompanied the expe- 
dition to trade at Santa Fé. The whole party was under the command of General McLeod. 

Leaving Austin, they travelled north, crossed the Brazos at the Cross Timbers, and thence turn- 
— — Big Wichita, which they thought was Red river. They entered upon 


40 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 


the Llano Estacado at the head of the main Red river. The party was here divided in two 
portions—the one under Colonel Cooke proceeding rapidly in advance, and General McLeod 
following more slowly with the main train. The pioneers of the advance guard travelled 
northwest, and struck the Canadian at the Arroyo de Truxillo; thence they followed up its 
valley to the Santa Fé and Independence road, which led them to Anton Chico. Some Mexi- 
cans were sent back as guides to Colonel Cooke, and he was led by the way of Tucumcari 
Hill along the road generally pursued by emigrants, near the Canadian river, to New Mexico. 

In the meantime, Mr. Kendall and his companions were made prisoners by the Mexicans, as 
also was Colonel Cooke upon his arrival at Anton Chico. While imprisoned in San Miguel, 
awaiting the arrival of General Armijo, they learned that he had captured General McLeod 
and his whole command at the Laguna Colorado. This expedition, it is thought, may have 
been the first to visit the sources of Red river, but it furnished no —— information 
which could be accurately represented upon a map. 


I. N. NICOLLET'S EXPLORATIONS, 1836, 1837, 1838, 1839, and 1840. 


This report and map was printed by the Senate, document No. 237, 26th Congress, 2d ses- 
sion ; the title being ‘‘ Report intended to illustrate a map of the Hydrographical Basin of the 
Upper Mississippi river, made by I. N. Nicollet while in employ under the Bureau of the Corps of 
Topographical Engineers. February 16, 1841.—Ordered to be printed, and 200 additional copies 
Jor the use of the Senate. Washington: Blair & Rives, printers. —1843.’’ The map accompany- 
ing this document is on a scale of 1 to 1,200,000. ‘Reduced and compiled, under the 
direction of Colonel J. J. Abert, in the Bureau of Topographical Engineers, by Lieut. W. H. 
Emory, from the map published in 1842, and from other authorities in 1843." __ 

The map published in 1842 was on a scale of 1 to 600,000, and bore the title of ** Map of 
the Hydrographical Basin of the Upper Mississippi river, from astronomical and barometrical 
observations, surveys, and information, by I. N. Nicollet, made in the years 1836, 1837, 1838, 
1839, and 1840; assisted in 1838, 1839, and 1840, by Lieutenant J. C. Frémont of the leno 
of Topographical Engineers, and authorized by the War Department." Both of these maps 
comprised the valley of the Mississippi and country adjacent, from the parallel of 38? to 
48? 30' north, between the 89th and 101st meridians west from Greenwich, and contained, in 
addition to the results of Mr. Nicollet's own observations and determinations, a jili of 
nearly all previous authentic explorations within these limits. 

. Mr. Nicollet says, in his introduction, that ‘‘having come to this country for the purpose 
ot making a scientific tour, and with a view of contributing to the progressive increase of 
knowledge in the physical geography of North America, I determined, after having explored 
the Allegany range in its ey extension gk he southern States, and having ascended 
the Red river, Arkan iver, نو‎ long Missouri river, to undertake the full 


Uu 


d e d ceu ui. P 4t Ar . B 


of the river from its meth wiis و‎ sources. During the five years 

that I wed ینت‎ ja theno- excursions, I VN occasion t sili eb تون‎ ation 
" 1dation of the astr cal and physical ge graphy of a large extent of 

— "of the- great and interesting resting: tagiin: between the Falls of St. 

e sources of the Mississippi. With these labors I connected, also, the study 

of the customs, habits, manners, and languages of the several Indian nations that occupy this 
vast region of country. At the expiration of this long (and I found it an arduous) journey, 
I returned to Baltimore among my good friends of St. Mary’s College, where I soon received a 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. Al 


flattering invitation from the War Department and Topographical Bureau to repair to Wash- 
ington. The result of my travels was made known to these departments, upon which they 
thought proper to intrust me with the command of an expedition to enable me to complete, to 
the greatest advantage, a scheme which I had already projected on my visit to the far west, 
namely, the construction of a geographical and MM np of the "m explored.” 
This was in the spring of 1838. = 

The years 1838 and 1839 were cubi Siu assisted by Liott. Fitment 
Mr. Nicollet had nearly completed the map, and written a portion of his report, when death 
put an end to his labors before he was enabled to finish it, or to revise what had been previously 
written. The report does not, therefore, do justice to the surveys, and it is impossible to 
specify the routes he pursued except for the years of 1836, 1838, and 1839, and somewhat 
imperfectly for these, even though I have consulted his original notes in the Topographical 
Bureau. The reconnaissances of these years are the ones which, topographically, have at 
present the greatest value, as nearly all the others made by him have since been replaced by 
more accurate surveys under the General Land Office. Wherever Mr. Nicollet went he was 
indefatigable in the use of the telescope for observing occultations and eclipses, and of the 
sextant, with which he was very skilful; with these, a pocket chronometer, artificial horizon 
of mercury, and ‘barometer, he obtained results WM remarkable dum for the means 
employed. 

On the 26th of July, 1836, Mr. Nicollet "-— from St. — near Fort Snelling, a ath 
ascended the Mississippi to the mouth of Crow apis Leaving the latter stream unt 
distance of three miles from its mouth, he ascended the Gayashk or Gull river, d 
the lake of this name, and proceeded as p as: Pine river, taking occasion to visit Lake Kadi- 
komeg, (White Fish lake;) then di t fork of Pine river, he reached the K wiwison, 
or Little Boy river, which he descended EPO lakes and over small rapids to 
Leech lake. After crossing several small lakes, he reached the one called Kabekona; follow- 

ing up the river of this name to its source, he made a short portage of five miles, which brought 
him to the river La Place, which he ascended to Assawe lake. From this point he crossed over 
to Lake Itasca, and examined in detail the streams unica it, and determined the one 


which ‘‘is truly the infant peo dudit Mr. Nicollet's 


laid down on nr mana FB Te "rw ۳۳۴ a Dai 


GIU DUW IGN UU P ۱ v ۵ 


> ار‎ 3 *- ME TS E ETL TE E و‎ SECI. 332, E ee ee MEA nd n SUN m OT رس‎ D ARN e E 
go - bin iene canter aie nes Rr din ia giants 


S Ks aed aitai e : DI 
Tn 1 22%. WM 2S ELA ae ee re ae oe اا ی‎ E UNUS, eo. wae T PE S 
In nelling, and on an 


excursion to the northeast by way of the St. € Orpix river. to-Madeli ; island; thence to Fond 
du Lac, and up the St. Louis river to the portage: across to-Sandy debes thence he returned to 
the mouth of the Saint Peter's. — 

In 1838 Mr. Nicollet, now for the first time in the service of the government, started from 
Fort Snelling, accompanied by Lieut. Frémont; they ascended the St. Peter's or Minnesota 
river to the mouth of the Waraju, and passed up the valley of this river to its source in the 
Cóteau du Prairie. Continuing to the westward, they examined the source of the Des Moines 
river, and the Indian red pipe stone quarry; thence turning north they examined Lake Benton; 
travelling west Seen hiv point they struck the Big Sioux river, crossed over and ex nined 

1 , Preston, Poinsett, ana Abert; and leaving th "ei Sioux P ENE. a Le او‎ 
of Redwood k, took a northeasterly e to Lake Tizaptona: و مدمه‎ veceded 
down the Intpah to loc qui Pale. Å “They now ascended the St. و وود‎ ne Osey 


42 | EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A. D. 1844. 


river. Here they turned westward along this stream, passing from it to the source of the first 
fork of the Izuzah river in the Céteau du Prairie, and thence north to the sources of the Second 
and Third forks; the latter they followed to the Izuzah, whence they crossed over to Big Stone 
lake. They also examined Lac Traverse, and returned to Fort Snelling by the St. Peter’s 
river. Mr. Nicollet placed the source of the Big Sioux (which he did not visit) about — 
five miles too far north; it is now known to head in Lake Kampeska. 

- Mr. Nicollet and Lieutenant Frémont again started from St. Louis on board tes American 
Fur Company’s steamer Antelope, April 4, 1839, bound for Fort Pierre, at which place they 
arrived June 12. The course of the river was sketched throughout most of the distance as 
the boat ascended. Their design being to explore Miniwakan lake, a party was organized at 
Fort Pierre. They took the field on the 2d of July, and proceeded in a northeast course, 
striking the Riviére 4 Jaques, or James river, at the old trading-houses called the ‘‘ Oakwood 
Settlements." They explored the valley of James river as far north as Butte aux Os, or Bone 
Hill; thence they struck northeastwardly to the valley of the Shayenne Oju river. This valley 
they followed as far as the parallel of 47° 45’, when they crossed the stream and travelled 
northwest to Miniwakan or Devil’s lake. Having examined all its shore except the north- 
west extremity, they returned to the Shayenne river, and crossed the high divide separating it 
from the Red river valley on the east. Travelling south near the sources of the west branches 
of Red river, they recrossed the Shayenne near latitude 46° 30’, and continuing d in nearly the 
same direction passed the sources of Wild Rice urbs and examine lakes about 
the head of the Cóteau du Prairie. Falling upon the sources of the Izuzah river n, they 'eturned, 
by that stream and the St. Peter's river, وج رهز‎ £4 

Mr. Nicollet was the font: valens who made much use of the b ew» for Godás the 


elevation of our great interior country above the sea. An abstract of the methods and prin- 
ciples by which متس میم‎ in his explorations is given in his report, and have served as 
a guide to many q pl یی‎ one of the pum contributions ever 
EE یت‎ D as a aei 


; EXPLORATION oF LIEUTENANT c. FRÉMONT, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1842. 


of this expedition is Senate document, No. 243, 27th Congress, 3d session, aid‏ یناه یروت 
is entitled “An Exploration of the Country lying between the Missouri river and the Rocky‏ 


Mountains, on the line of the Kansas and Great Platte rivers." It is illustrated by a map on a” 


scale of 1 to 1,000,000, (nearly 16 miles to an inch,) embracing the country from the forks of 
the Platte to the South Pass, between the 43d and 45th parallels. 

Lieutenant Frémonts M consisted of about 25 persons, all mounted, except eight, who 
= was Did the s since" well i — Mr. 
Itations, , and barometer. “He pene E the month of the Kansas diverit 


oe 


miaf 
his party, a portion going with 

he, with the remainder, continued up ihe Beetle fel, jn ania, thence he proceeded 
north to Fort Laramie. From سورب‎ dup the North fork of the Platte to the Sweet- 


water river, and up this to its source in the South Pass. He continued to the northwestward, 


ON 4 مه‎ the Feiner 


z SE De PATO کل و را‎ E ia S NO PL EF N E TET NUES: ULL ONT ۷ ۰ ۳۱۵۷ peter 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A p. 1844. 43 


along the foot of the Wind River range, to the parallel of 43?, near which he ascended an 
elevated peak and determined its height (13,570 feet) with a barometer. It has since borne 
his name. From this point he returned, and on reaching the North Platte, attempted to 
descend the stream in a boat. After safely passing several frightful rapids, the boat was finally 
swamped, but without loss of life. The party then continued down the valley of the North 
Fork and main Platte to its mouth... Lieutenant Frémont made, throughout this journey, 
astronomical observations وهی‎ fotum — وا وت وروی‎ 
among tte sinea moist. x 
EXPLORATION BY CAPTAIN x. BOONE, UNITED STATES DRAGOONS, 1843. 


aai bapa iiaa taê journal I obtained from the fles of Mind jutont 
General's Office, and it is exceedingly interesting as containing an account of a country almost 
unknown. The map is on a scale of 20 miles to an inch. It exhibits the country between the 
Arkansas and Canadian rivers as far west as the 100th meridian. It contains no meridians or 
parallels, as no astronomical observations were made. Captain Boone says ‘‘it is a map or 
rough sketch of the country, with the water coursés running through it. The courses and 
distances are all estimated from point to point direct, and not according to the distance actually 
travelled during each day, as it was found impossible to note the courses and distances of the 
windings made during each day's march." This report is accompanied by a minute journal, 
covering 55 pages of letter paper, closely written, and is referred to by General Taylor, in 
transmitting it, as containing ‘‘much valuable and curious information, particularly in relation 
to the salt region on the Red fork of the Arkansas." The pun pue hate neder dven 
printed. Re .اد مد‎ 2: 
© The خان فد زب دی‎ Beides og ا ت وو‎ hi: ایی‎ do 
about ten miles above the Lower Red fork, thence crossed over to the right bank, proceeded 
up this side to the mouth of the Upper Red fork or Big Salt fork. The party next travelled 
westward about 60 miles in a straight line when it came upon Big Salt plain; thence it turned 
north to the Santa Fé trail, striking it on the headwaters of the Little Arkansas. It then 


proceeded west to the mouth of Walnut creek, and thence in a general direction nearly due south 


to the Canadian, تساه دراه‎ about fifty miles east of the Antelope Hills.) Thence it 


Arkansas. i aes aio! jt a mbog 
© ALLEN TO SOURCE OF DES MOI NES RIVER, &c., 1843. 
edb aii supr aurei ad i 

The guit di pues of this expedition, form نوتدای‎ ee! Doc. No. 168, 1st session 29th 
Congress. No map was printed with this report. Captain Allen submitted a map of his 
route with it, concerning which he makes the following remarks: ''For the actual route 
passed over I must refer to the accompanying map, which will show it more fully and completely 
than it could be made by any other description. The map was constructed by Lieutenant 
Potter, under my immediate direction, and the care of taking minute notes on the way, and the 
pains taken during its projection, by that officer to secure all the information within his reach, 

Though I am not aware that this map was ever published by the government, the principal topographical infor. 
mation which h it contained was embraced in a map published by the Messrs. m — **Harper's 
Coroas -of the United States. By Samuel Breese, A. M." — dra io 


a4 


PLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 TO a. D. 1844. 


will warrant me in saying that it gives a very correct delineation of the country passed over, 
as also the topography of other parts of this territory, perhaps the most accurate on record." 
The Adjutant General, R. Jones, in his letter transmitting this report to Secretary Marcy, says: 
‘Instead of the map of the route accompanying the report, I submit the more perfect map of 
the Upper Mississippi by Nicollet, (from which Captain Allen's sketch no doubt was taken,) 
upon which the route of the troops under his command has been carefully traced in the 
Topographical Bureau. Should it be determined to publish Captain Allen's route, Colonel 
Abert is of opinion it would be best to use the plate prepared for Nicollet's map. This would 
be not only much less expensive, but Miei probably, ee the euer M which is one 
of much value." 

As this last course was not followed, I m to obtain the original from the files of the 
Adjutant General's office, and ascertained that it had been loaned, in 1846, to the commission; 
of which Governor Parras was president, to make a treaty with the Winnebagoes, but that it 
had never been returned. On seeking it in the Indian Bureau, I was again unsuccessful, so that 
it has been probably lost. I was also unable to obtain the map that had been sent to the 
House "á a as it could not be found there. 

: tion und i consisted of J. S. Griffin, assistant surveyor; First 

]houn ; Second Lieutenant P. Noble, 1st dragoons; Second 
Lieutenant -— 1st. eona and 52 soldiers. a Allen was ا‎ “with a small 
imperfect sextant," and no chronometer. à 

The route of the party was from Fort Des Moisi; سد‎ oiinadi یه‎ 
to the Iron Banks, and thence up the east bank to the extreme source in ‘‘the Lake of the 
Oaks." From this point the country was explored north for 37 miles, and thence east to the 
St. Peter's river. Returning to the source of the Des Moines, he marched his command due 
west to the Big Sioux river, and followed down it a distance of 159 miles to its mouth; thence 
he took the nearest practicable route back to Fort Des Moines. 

A portion of this route alongs the Big Sioux has not been reconnoitred since. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU MAP OF TEXAS, 1844. 


The title of this is ‘‘Map of Texas and the countries adjacent, نیج تیعبت‎ asthe 
Corps of Topographical Engineers, from the best authorities, for the State Department, under the 
direction of Colonel J. J. Abert, chief of the corps, by.W. H. Emory, 1st lieutenant Topographical 
Engineers, War Department, 1844,” on a scale of about TO miles to an inch. 

This gave most of the information extant, at the date of compilation, respecting the country 
comprised between the Gulf of Mexico and the Mississippi river on the east to the Pacific ocean 
on the west, between the 22d and 42d parallels of north latitude. No mountains are indicated, 
except those enclosing the Rio Grande valley. A lake, in the approximate position of the 
Great Salt lake, is represented, and another one receiving the waters of Ogden’s or Mary’s 
river. There are no names on the lakes and rivers represented in these interior basins; but 
this compilation shows that the existence of these waits leone We, — admitted 
as an established fact in the Topographical Baron. : uo ۱ 


GREGG'S COMMERCE OF THE PRATRIES, 1844. 


The title page of this book is +t Commerce of the Prairies, or the Journal of a Santa Fe nin, 
during eight expeditions across the Great Western Prairies, and a residence of nearly nine years in 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1832 To A p. 1844. 45 


Northern Mexico, illustrated with maps and engravings. Sipehr aame New 
York; Henry G. Langley, 8 Astor House.—1844.” 

The map which accompanies the book is on a scale of 57 سرب‎ p® inch, i و‎ e 
country from the west boundary of Missouri, Arkansas, and Louisiana, to the 108th meridian. 
It is based on the map of Humboldt’s New Spain, that of Major Long’s first expedition, and 
that of the road survey of J. C. Brown along the Santa Fé trail, with such corrections and 


this region at that day. {Laie Dol Gb iin ناه میات‎ and valuable description of all the then 
known portions of New Mexico, and of the country along the routes between Fort Leavenworth 
and Banis Jé; and. bekreenn. hein Pé and. Fort Smith — 


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"CHAPTER III. 
EXPLORATIONS FROM. A. D. 1843 TO ۸ D. 1859, - 


CAPTAIN J. C. FREMONT, T. E., EXPLORATION, 1843-44. EU $3.6 FREMONT, EE IN 184546. — LIEUTENANT 3. W. ABERT, 
T. E, 1845.— W.B. FRANELIN, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE, 1845. MAJOR W. H. EMORY, T. B., 
RECONNAISSANCE, 1846-'47.—LIEUTENANT J. W. ABERT, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE, 1846-'47.—LIEUTENANT COLONEL P. 8T. GEORGE COOKE, 


, 1847~48-'49.— LIEUTENANT G. H. peer; *. E , RECONNAISSANCE, HR ae 3. B. iniri: E., — MOUTH 

or RIO pae 1847.—LIEUTENANT J. H. SIMPSON, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE ALONG THE CANADIAN RIVER, 1849.—LIEUTENANT J. H. 

COUNTRY, 1849 arem R. B. MARCY, U.S. A , EXPEDITION, 1849.—CAPTAIN H. STANSBURY, 

T. E, EXPEDITION TO GREAT SALT LAKE, 1849-50 .—MARCH OF RIFLE REGIMENT TO OREGON, 1849.— MAJOR WOOD, U. 8. INF., AND 

CAPTAIN POPE, T. E, EXPEDITION TO RED RIVER, 1849.—BREVET LIEUTENANT COLONEL JOHNSON, T. E., RECONNAISSANCES IN TEXAS, 

1849—50—51.—TOPOGRAPHICAL BUREAU MAP OF TERRITORY OF UNITED STATES WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI, 1850.—R. H. KERN, C. Bey 

RECONNAISSANCE ON THE PECOS RIVER, 1850 —LIEUTENANT J. 6۰ PARKE, T. E., MAP OF NEW MEXICO, 1851 Si veteran SITGREAVES, T. E., 

AND LIEUTENANT WOODRUFF, T. E., BOUNDARY OF CREEK COUNTRY, 1850-51 .—ÜAPTAIN SITGREAVES, T. E., EXPEDITION TO ZUNI AND 

COLORADO RIVERS, 1851.—LIEUTENANT G. H. DERBY, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE MOUTH OF COLORADO RIVER, en -—laguTENANT I. C. 
WOODRUFF, T. E و‎ RECONNAISSANCE, 1852.—CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY, U. 8. A., EXPEDITION TO SOURCES OF RED RIVER. 


CAPTAIN J. G, FRÉMONT'S SECOND EXPLORATION, 1843 AND 1844. 


The title of the printed report is ‘‘Report of the Exploring Expedition to the Rocky Mountains 
in the year 1842, and to Oregon and North California in the years 1843—44. By Brevet Captain 
J. C. Frémont, of the Topographical Engineers, under the orders of Colonel J. J. Abert, chief of 
the Topographical Bureau ; printed by order of the Senate of the United States. Washington: Gales 
& Seaton, printers. —1845."" Senate Doc. No. 174, 28th Congress, 2d session. 

This book contains a reprint of the report of the exploration in 1842, and the accompanying 
map exhibits the routes followed during that expedition, as well as during the years 1843 and 
1844. The longitudes given on this map and in this report (pp. 100 and 101) differ materially 
from those of the first report and map; the reason for the change being explained on page 321. 
The new map is on a scale of 32 miles to an inch, and is ‘‘strictly confined to what was seen 
and to what was necessary to show the face and character of the country." It was drawn by 
Charles Preuss, whose skill in sketching topography i in the field and in representing it on the 
map has probably never been surpassed in this country. The map, which in most respects 
may serve for a model, exhibits also a profile, made from barometrical observations, drawn 
with a horizontal scale of 1 to 3,000,000, or 47.35 miles to an inch, and a vertical scale 
about 30 times greater or 8,500 feet to the inch. 

A “topographical map of the road from Missouri to Oregon, commencing at the mouth of 
the Kanzas, in the Missouri river, and ending at the mouth of the Walla- Walla, in the 
Columbia, in seven sections, from the field notes and journal of Captain J. C. Frémont, * and 
from sketches and notes made on the ground by his assistant, Charles Preuss, compiled 
by Charles Preuss in 1846, by order of the Senate of the United States,’’ forms a part of 
House Com. Report No. 145, second session 30th Congress. Its scale is 10 miles to the inch. 
It contains detailed topography and full notes of the route pursued by Captain Frémont 


© Frémont did not receive his promotion to the rank of brevet captain until the termination of his second expedition. 


—w-——K————r— sm 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 TO A p. 1852. 41 


(between the points named) in 1843, and is an excellent map for travellers. It is not, however, 
accurately constructed, according to the list of geographical positions given in Captain 
Frémont’s report, and this should be borne in mind by compilers. 

Throughout this iğtlioned E رود‎ in the mountains and across the wry Lieutenant 
Frémont made many ast observations, determining longitude by observing occulta- 
tions and eclipses with a telescope and by chronometric differences, and latitudes by observing 
with sextants and artificial horizons. After the investigations necessary in compiling the map 
which accompanies this memoir, I may be permitted to add my testimony to the truth of 
Captain Frémont’s assertion in his notice to the reader at the beginning of his report, 
“that the correctness of the longitudes and latitudes may well be relied upon." They contain 
only such errors of longitude as are inherent to results obtained from observations made with 
the instruments employed. A mercurial barometer was carried across the continent on the 
road to Oregon as far as the Blue mountains, where it was broken. The subsequent elevations 
on the route were determined by the temperature of boiling water. __ 

^ The second expedition under Lieutenant Frémont left the town of Kansas on the: 29th of 
May, 1843. The party consisted of twenty-nine men, all mounted, their stores, &c., being 
carried in twelve carts. He was assisted by Mr. Charles Preuss as topographer, Mr. Thomas 
Fitzpatrick as guide, and Mr. Theodore Talbot. The party proceeded up the Kansas river to 
the junction of the Smoky Hill and Republican — and thence " the latter stream to a 
point about 270 miles from where they started. — 

Here Lieutenant Frémont divided his party, taking Mr. Preuss and a few men with him, 
and leaving the carts in charge of Mr. Fitzpatrick. The party under Lieutenant Frémont 
proceeded rapidly in advance, left the valley of the main stream, and keeping on the divide, 
between it and Soloman’s Fork, continued their westward course. This brought them again to 
the Republican Fork, which they now crossed, passed the dividing ridge between it and the 
South fork of the Platte, and travelled up the valley of the latter to St. Vrain’s Fort. Leaving 
this point, the party proceeded up the valley of the South fork of the Platte to where it issues 
from the mountains. Here they struck toward the east, crossing the sources of several tribu- 
taries of the South fork, one of which, Bijou creek, they followed to its source. From this 
point they travelled mana to Boiling Spring creek, and down this stream to its junction 
with the Arkansas. - at Frémont returned again to St. Vrain's Fort by the direct route 
up Boiling Spring seis and was there joined by the party under Mr. Fitzpatrick.  — 

The while: party now ascended the valley of the Cache à la Poudre creek, Mito tough 
the Black Hills by the narrow, rocky valley of that stream; thence over a rolling open country 
they wound around the north side of the Medicine Bow mountains, and passing by a rough 
road through the Medicine Bow Butte Pass, descended to the north fork of the Platte. Crossing 
this stream they attempted to take a direct route for the South Pass over the high plateau 
constituting the dividing ridge between the Atlantic and Pacific waters, but finding the country 
hilly, barren, and uninteresting, they turned northward to the valley of the Sweetwater river. 
Striking this stream twenty miles above Devil’s Gate, they travelled up its valley to the South 
Pass, turned to the southwest, and followed the emigrant road to Oregon, along the course of 
the Big Sandy to its mouth. Crossing Green river, (the main branch of the Great Colorado of 
the west,) and reaching Black’s Fork, about thirty-five miles above its junction with Green 
river, they travelled up its valley to near Bridger’s Fort. Passing over a low ridge to the 
north, called by the trappers ‘‘Little Mountain,’’ they now descended to one of the sources of 


48 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 


Ham’s Fork, called the ** Muddy," (Frémont calls Ham’s Fork, Muddy Fork;) thence striking 
over to Ham’s Fork, and ascending by a good road to the head of this stream, he next crossed 
the Bear mountains, a connecting ridge between the Utah or Bear River mountains and the 
Wind River chain of the Rocky mountains. This summit Lieutenant Frémont’s barometrical 
observations indicate to be the highest on the road between the Mississippi river and the 
Pacific ocean. Descending into the valley of Bear river, the party followed it northward to 
Beer spring, at its most northerly point, and thence turned south down the river for about 

sixty-five miles. Here turning westward they followed one of its tributaries to its head, 
crossed a high rocky ridge, and descended into the valley of Roseaux or Reed creek, which 
they followed to Bear river. Lieutenant Frémont now ined din a lide of the latter 
stream in an India rubber boat, but failed, as the river separated into numerous sloughs and 
branches, rendering the navigation impossible. On the 6th of September this expedition first 
beheld the waters of the Great Salt Lake. Forming an encampment on Weber’s Fork, Lieu- 
tenant Frémont made a hasty survey of the northern portion of the lake. 

Turning back upon their former trail to the head of Reed creek, they crossed the dividing 
ridge between the waters of Bear river and Snake river, (Lewis’ Fork of the Columbia,) at the 
source of Pannack river, and proceeded to Fort Hall. From this point they travelled down 
the left bank of Snake river over a rugged, difficult road, and crossed the stream at the emigrant 
ford below Fishing Falls. Keeping close to the mountains north of Snake river, and crossing 
its numerous small tributaries, they struck the Riviére Boisée, (sometimes called Reid’s river,) 
and followed down its valley to Fort Boisée, near its mouth. Here they recrossed the Snake 
river, and travelled along its valley to the mouth of Burnt river, at which place Snake river 
turns north through deep and rocky cafions, said to be impassable for man or beast. Following 
up Burnt river to its source, they took a very rocky, dangerous road for wagons, which led 
them near the heads of several tributaries of Snake river, and finally across the Blue mountains 
to the source of the main fork of Umatillah river, a tributary of the Columbia. Descending 
along a mountain spur, they entered the valley of the Walla- Walla river, and followed it to its 
junction with the Columbia, where old Fort Walla-Walla or Fort Nez Percé was situated. 
Lieutenant Frémont now travelled down the valley of the Columbia to the Dalles, whence he 
descended the river with two canoes to Fort Vancouver. 

Returning to the Dalles, he started on his homeward journey, iudi abandoned his carts for 
packs, the only wheel vehicle which he retained being a mountain howitzer. He states, as the 
projet for his return trip, to make an examination of Klamath lake; to go thence to the reputed 
site of the lake called ** Mary/s;" thence to Buenaventura river; thence to the mountains at 
the heads of the Arkansas river; and then down the Arkansas to Bent’s Fort. He proceeded 
up the-valley of Fall river (Des Chutes) until within ۵ short distance of its head, where it 

d int on the we ide. Here he left it, and crossing a low and heavily 
timbered. divide, came into the basin al Klamath lake. Thence the party travelled east, 
visiting Summer lake and Lake Abert. From the northern end of the latter they turned south, 
passing a chain of lakes with little or no dividing ridges. Continuing south, he entered the 
basin of the Mud lakes and Pyramid lake. Leaving Pyramid lake and Salmon Trout river, he 
travelled on, crossing Carson’s and Walker's. rivers, until finally, in about latitude 38° 20’, 
(being disappointed in not finding the Rio San Buenaventura, which for many days he had been 
“expecting to see with every stream,’’) he turned toward the west. After encountering great 


: ۷ D : um 
ic M s DEC Ua OX NUN: [mpi nce ry T 
4 A UNE ` - Cee er 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 TO A. D. 1852. 49 


hardships and perils, he succeeded in crossing the Sierra Nevada in the months of January and 
February, and proceeded to Neuva Helvetia, on the Sacramento river. 

Leaving the Sacramento, Lieutenant Frémont travelled up the west side of the San Joaquin 
valley, following that stream to near its head; thence travelling around the eastern shore of 
the Tulare lakes, he crossed the Sierra Nevada mountains near their southern end by a ‘‘beau- 
tiful pass” now called Tah-ee-cha-pah. Skirting along the eastern face of the mountains, he 
struck the Spanish trail from Los Angeles to Santa Fé near the Cajon Pass. This trail he 
followed down the Mohave river to where it leaves this stream, and. یمیت‎ northeast to Sevier 
river; here he left it and travelled north to Utah lake. 

Turning now to the east, up the Spanish Fork, he crossed the Wasatch mountains at the 
source of White river. Continuing on toward the east, he passed north of the sources of Uinta 
river, gets it es the Uinta mountains, arrived at Green river and crossed it at ** 8 
Hole." 


‘Following 4 the course of a small branch called Vermilion creek, the party crossed from its 
head to Elk Head river, went up this stream to St. Vrain Fork, followed it for a short distance, 
and then struck directly eastward, toward the summit of the dividing ridge between the waters 
of the Pacific and the Atlantic. They crossed the summit of the Rocky mountains at an 
elevation of 8,000 feet, near the head of Pullam’s Fork of the Platte, and descended into the 
valley of this stream. For the purpose of examining the three parks and the three rivers 
that rise in them, Lieutenant Frémont now turned up the valley of the Platte, passing into the 
New Park or North Park by the narrow gorge or gate through which the north. fork of the 
Platte forces its way. Keeping up the left bank of the Platte, and crossing several deep 
branches, he recrossed the divide between the waters flowing into the Atlantic and Pacific at 
an elevation of 9,000 feet, and, continuing to the south, crossed the Blue river near its forks 
in the southwestern edge of the Old or Middle Park. Thence going up the right hand fork, 
he again reached the summit of the divide between the Atlantic and the Pacific waters, and 
passed into the South Park or Bayou Salade, where the south fork of the Platte has its source. 
This last mentioned divide has an estimated height of 11,200 feet. Leaving the South Park, 
Lieutenant Frémont crossed the mountains which — it Pls the Arkansas river and 
again reached the open plains. 

" From this point the expedition moved fayidiy down the left bank of the denies: to 


twenty miles below Bent's old fort, turned northeasterly over an elevated prairie, and crossed 


a stream which Lieutenant Frémont considered a branch of Smoky Hill Fork, but which was 
probably Sandy creek of the Arkansas. On arriving at the head of Smoky Hill Fork, the 
party turned down its valley and continued along it to a point where the river bends northward 
to join with the Republican Fork. Here they left the river, and, continuing on their easterly 
course, struck the wagon road from Santa Fé to Independence, Missouri; and, on the last of 
July, 1844, encamped again at the little town of Kansas, on the left bank of the Missouri 
river, ` 
EXPLORATIONS OF CAPT. J. C. FREMONT, 1845-46. 


of this were published by the United States Senate, “let. ‘session‏ اس portion of the‏ و 
30th Congress, Mis. Doc. No. 148, entitled ‘‘ Geographical Memoir upon Upper California, in‏ 
illustration of his Map of Oregon and California, by John C. Frémont, addressed to the Senate‏ 
of the United States. Washington: Wendell & Van Benthuysen, printers." This is accompanied‏ 

ji 


0 TES, EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 


by a map, drawn by Charles Preuss, on a scale of 1 to 3,000,000, embracing all the country 
between the 104th meridian and the Pacific ocean, and between the 32d and 50th parallels of 
north latitude. It was compiled from the surveys of Captain Frémont and “other authorities,” 
and was at the time of its publication (1848) the most accurate map of that region extant. 

A great deal of information in regard to this expedition, not contained in the memoir, 
has been published in the newspapers and in various pamphlets. 

There are probably many reasons why a complete account of this third expedition, as well 
as Colonel Frémont’s subsequent ones, has never been published; but this desideratum will 
probably be soon supplied.* 

Captain Frémont started upon this exploration better provided than on his previous ones. 
He had under his command Lieutenants J. W. Abert and William G. Peck, Topographical 
Engineers, and was aided by Mr. Charles Preuss and Mr. E. M. Kern, as topographers and 
artists. He was provided with a portable astronomical transit instrument, sextants, chronom- 
eters, and barometers. No map or account has been published of his route East of Bent’s 
Fort, but I believe it is nearly that by which he returned in 1844. He left the frontier 
of Missouri in May, and, on arriving at Bent/s Fort, detached Lieutenants Abert and Peck to 
explore the sources of the Canadian river, and then to return to the States. "The following 
account of his subsequent movements is principally taken from his memoir and map. . 

"The party under Captain Frémont left Bent’s Fort on the 16th of August, 1845, travelled up 
ihe Arkansas to the Utah Pass, at its source, and crossed the divide at the head of Piney ereek, 
a branch of Blue river. Continuing west they crossed Blue river, reached the sources of White 
river, and travelled near it toits mouth. From the crossing of Green river they travelled up 
the left bank of the Uintah to Duchesne's Fork, intersecting Captain Frémont's trail of 1844 a 
short distance east of the point where it crossed that stream; thence they passed up Morin's 
Fork, crossed the divide between the waters of the Colorado river and those of the Great Salt 
lake, near the head of Timpanogos river, which they followed down to its junction with Utah 
lake. They passed around the northern end of that lake and down Utah river to the Great Salt 
lake, which was reached at the point where ** Great Salt Lake aity’’ is now situated. Remain- 
ing here several days, Captain Frémont made astronomical observations and surveyed the lower 
portion of the lake, including Antelope island. 

Leaving the southern shore of Great Salt Lake, they struck northwesterly to Pilot Peak, 
crossing, in so doing, two isolated ranges of mountains. Turning southwest from this point, they 
travelled about 50 or 60 miles to Whitton's Springs, where the party was divided. One por- 
tion, to which Mr. Kern was attached, and which was conducted by Walker, turned southwest, 
crossed the Humboldt River mountains near the head of Crane’s branch of the south fork of 
the Humboldt, continued their southwesterly course, and crossed three distinct mountain 
masses before reaching Moore's creek, in latitude 389 33^ 1 W. petro pro- 
ceeded to the rendezvous at Walker's lake. 

The other party, under Captain Frémont, crossed the Humboldt iiss Res a d 
pass, and descended to the head of the north fork of Humboldt river. This stream had here- 
tofore been named Ogden's or Mary's river. After following it down to what are called the 
^ Sinks," they travelled southward, passing near the mountains, along the eastern shore of 
Carson's lake. They soon struck Walker’s river near its mouth and rejoined the other party. 

® In press, Colonel J. C. grains poco ae by the author, and embracing all bis expeditions.—Childs & 
Peterson, publishers, No. 602, Arch street, Philadelphia, 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 51 


Separating once more, Mr. Kern, guided by Mr. Walker, proceeded south to the head of 
Owen’s river, and travelled down its valley, at the foot of the eastern slope of the Sierra 
Nevada, to Owen’s lake. Thence they travelled about 40 miles south to Walker's Pass, and 
crossed thé summit to the head of Kern river, in the valley of which they camped to await = 
arrival of Captain Frémont's division. 

Captain Frémont tfavelled northwesterly, crossed Carson's river at the sáme point as in the 
preceding year, and thence striking the Salmon Trout river, followed it to its head and passed 
the summit of the Sierra Nevada in latitude 39° 17' 12", being about 55 miles north of his pass 
of January 17, 1844. Descending thence the northern fork of American river, he — 
New Helvetia. 

Thence he proceeded south to Lake Fork or King's river, which he supposed, from Mr. 
Walker's description, to be the place where he would find him and Mr. Kern. “This stream 
he ascended and searched for a long time in a very rugged country, in many places covered 
with snow, but he could find no trace of the party, and, thinking they had gone to — — 
ments, he gave up the search and went to Monterey." 7 

Messrs. Kern and Walker having waited on Kern river until their provisions were exhausted, 
gave up all hope of being joined there by Captain Frémont, and proceeded to Monterey, where 
they found him. 

Captain Frémont, in the following spring, (March, 1846,) ascended the Sacramento as far 
as Fort Reading, crossed the mountains to the valley of Pit river, and, proceeding to the 
north, explored Upper or Great Klamath lake. On his return he visited many places along 
the coast as far south as San Diego, but his routes are not represented on the map or specifie 
in his memoir. It is probable that the war with Mexico and the troubles between Americans 
and Mexicans in California, which began prior thereto, put a stop to his explorations beyond 
what could be obtained by ordinary observations in ی‎ from point to point during a 
period of violent hostilities. 

During this expedition Captain Frémont obtained the longitude of the mouth of Fontaine qui 
Bouit; of the camp at Great Salt Lake; of Lassen’s farm, on Deer creek; and of the Three Buttes, 
in OTE valley. The first two results have never been tested by any other observer 
with a good instrument, but are generally received as correct. The other two have been 
tested by land office surveys, and by Lieutenant Williamson’s second Pacific railroad survey, 
connecting with the Coast Survey longitude of San Francisco. Both tests indicate that his 
results were close approximations to accuracy. These four determinations of Captain Frémont 
detected some errors in his previous map, amounting, in one instance, to 15’ in longitude, and 
which furnished the means for correcting them. 

A note on Captain Frémont’s map of routes of 1843-44, gives the following descriptive 
information: ‘‘The Great Basin: Diameter 11? of latitude, 10° of longitude; elevation above 
the sea between four and five thousand feet; surrounded by lofty mountains; contents almost 
unknown, but believed to be filled with rivers and lakes which have no communication with 
the sea; deserts and oases which-liave never been explored, and savage tribes which no 
tfaveller has seen or described." This note, with the map and accompanying report, have 
conveyed the idea that this Basin is encircled by a ridge of mountains forming a rim. This 
was so represented on the map compiled by Mr. Preuss in 1848, and gave rise to the belief in 
the existence of two long ridges running east and west, lying on the north and south of the 
basin, which, however, by that time, had been much reduced in extent. 


52 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A D. 1852. 


RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUT. JAMES W. ABERT, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1845. 


This report forms Senate Doc. No. 438, 29th Congress, Ist session, and is accompanied by 
a map on a scale of about 32 miles to an inch, embracing the country from the 94th meridian 
to the Rocky mountains, and between the Platte river and the 35th parallel. 

Lieutenant J. W. Abert, assisted by Lieutenant William G. Peck, Topographical Engineers, 
having been detached at Bent’s Fort by Captain Frémont, in 1845, with instructions from him 
to explore the Purgatory creek, the Canadian and False Washita rivers, left that fort on the 
Arkansas on the 15th of August, 1845, with a party of 30 men, four wagons, and 63 horses 
and mules. "They were supplied with a chronometer and sextant. "They travelled down the 
Arkansas to the mouth of the Purgatory creek, and thence up that stream about 15 or 18 miles, 
when the cañons forced them to strike westward to Timpa creek, which they followed. to its 
head. Travelling over a low divide, they again came to Purgatory creek, and followed it to 
the Raton Pass. "Taking the Santa Fé road through this pass, they reached the sources of the 
Canadian, and followed down the banks of this river to about latitude 35? 50. Here they 
crossed over to Utah creek, one of its tributaries, and followed this to its mouth. Keeping 
along the Canadian to the vicinity of Valley creek, they again left it and struck south to the 
sources of the north fork of Red river, which they supposed were those of the False Washita. 
Continuing along this fork, they travelled east some 10 miles, and took a northeast course to 
the Canadian, before reaching which, they crossed the head branches of the False Washita. 
They then travelled down the valley of the Canadian to Fort Gibson. 


RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUTENANT W. B. FRANKLIN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1845. 


An abstract of Lieutenant Franklin's journal, and a reduced copy of his map, on a scale of 
75 miles to an inch, were published in House Ex. Doc. No. 2, Ist sess. 29th Cong. The 
the title of the map is ** Map of the Route pursued by the late Expedition under the command 
of Colonel S. W. Kearney, United States lst dragoons, by W. B. Franklin, Lieutenant Topo- 
graphical Engineers, attached to the expedition, 1845.” ۱ 

The original map is on a scale of 32 miles toaninch. The new information which it contained 
was published with Lieutenant Abert’s map of his exploration, made in 1845, wherein credit 
is given to Lieutenant Franklin for the material taken from his map. 

The expedition was under command of Colonel S. W. Kearny, United States Ist dragoons. 
It started from Fort Leavenworth for the South Pass, travelling on the usual road to Fort 
Kearny, thence up the Platte and South Fork to where the road crosses to the North Fork, at 
Ash Hollow, and thence up the North Fork and Sweetwater to the source of the latter. 
Returning to Fort Laramie, the expedition proceeded south along the Chugwater and Crow 
creeks to St. Vrain’ s Fort, and thence to the Arkansas, below the mouth of Boiling Spring 
creek. It returned along the Arkansas and Santa Fé road to Fort Leavenworth. 

An account of the expedition is given in Lieutenant Colonel P. St. G. Cooke's late book of 
** Scenes and Adventures i in the Army." 


RECONNAISSANCE OF MAJOR WM. H. EMORY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1846-47. ۰ 

The report forms a part of Senate Ex. Doc. No. 7, 1st session of 30th Congress, and is 
entitled ‘‘ Notes of a Military Reconnaissance from Fort Leavenworth, in Missouri, to San Diego, 
in California, includiny parts of the Arkansas, Del Norte, and Gila rivers. By Wm. H. Emory, 
Brevet Major Topographical Engineers, made in 1846-41, with the advanced guard of the * Army 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 53 


of the West.’ Washington: Wendell and Van Benthuysen, printers.—1848."* It is accompanied by 
a map, on a scale of about 24 miles to an inch, exhibiting only that portion of the country and 
the routes that came under the observation of the parties. The map contains also a baromet- 
rical profile of the route across the continent, on a horizontal scale of about 24 miles to an 
inch, and a vertical scale of about 8,200 feet to an inch, the vertical scale being about 15 
times the horizontal. A report by Lieutenant Abert, of the portions of the route between 
Fort Leavenworth and Bent’s Fort, is also appended. Major Emory (then a first lieutenant 
of Topographical Engineers) was assisted by Lieutenant W. H. Warner, Topographical Engi- 
neers, Lieutenant James W. Abert, Topographical Engineers, Lieutenant Wm. G. Peck, 
Topographical Engineers, Mr. J. M. Stanley, and Mr. Norman Bestor. His instruments were 
two box chronometers, two 84-inch sextants, and one syphon barometer, which was the first 
‘mercurial barometer ever carried overland to the Pacific unbroken. 

They started from Fort Leavenworth June 27, 1846, and, proceeding south, struck the Santa 
Fé road, which they followed to the bend of the Arkansas river, and thence up the valley to 
Bent’s Fort, where they joined the column of the ‘‘ Army of the West." From this place they 
travelled in a southerly direction, up the Timpa creek to its head, and thence through the 
Raton Pass near the head of Purgatory creek. After crossing the valleys of the tributaries of 
the Canadian, they struck the Gallinas river near its source, and thence travelled to the Pecos, 
crossed it at San Miguel, and followed up its valley tothe old ruins of Pecos. They then passed 
over the Santa Fé mountains, by the pass at the head of the north fork of the Galisteo creek, 
and entered Santa Fé. 

Lieutenants Abert and Peck did not accompany Lieutenant Emory beyond Santa Fé, instruc- 
tions being given them to make certain explorations in the neighboring region. 

From Santa Fé the army travelled down the valley of the Rio Grande del Norte 230 miles. 
At Fra Cristobal the command, separating from the wagon train, which took another route, 
crossed the dividing ridge ‘‘nearly on the 33d parallel,” struck the Gila, and followed its valley 
to the Colorado of the Gulf of California; being sometimes forced, by cafions and ravines, to leave 
the river for short distances. Crossing the Colorado south of the mouth of the Gila, they 
travelled northwesterly over the Colorado desert, very nearly along the present wagon road, 
until, on the 5th of December, they crossed the summit of the Coast Range, through Warner’s 
Pass. After much hard fighting with the Mexicans, es arrived at San step December 12, 
1846, and here the ene reconnaissance prantingted:: " 


The results of these iie و‎ is are given by Lieutenant Abert’s report, which forms a part 
of House Ex. Doc. No. 41, Ist session 30th Congress. It is accompanied by a map, on a scale 
of 10 miles to an inch, exhibiting the portion of New Mexico between latitude 33° 30’ and 37°, 
and from the meridian of 104° 30’ to 108°. This map was also reduced and republished on 
Lieutenant Emory’s map already described. 

Lieutenants Abert and Peck commenced, on the 8th of October, the examination entrusted to 
them by Lieutenant Emory, after having previously visited certain mines. It does not appear 
that they were provided with any instruments for making astronomical observations, and the 
latitudes and longitudes used were those determined by Lieutenant Emory. They descended 
the Rio Grande to the Algodones, whence they made a short journey up the Rio Jemez and 


? It was also published by the House of Representatives, House Ex. Doc. No. 41, Ist session 30th Congress. 


54 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. p. 1852. 


back, and, continuing down the Rio Grande to Albuquerque, crossed the river. Striking over 
to the Puerco, they followed its valley to the Rio San José, and up that stream to the Pueblo 
Moquino, visiting also the pueblos of Laguna and Acoma, and the ruins of a deserted pueblo 
on the Rito, a branch of San José river. From this place they retraced their steps to Albu- 
querque, travelled down the east side of the Rio Grande as far as Peralta, and returned to 
Padillas. 

From Padillas they travelled east up the “ Cafion Infierno," through the Sierra Blanca, visited 
the towns of Chilili, Tegique, Torreon, Manzana, and Quarra, and returned by way of the ruins 
of Abo, to the Rio Grande, which they struck at * Casa Colorado." From here they proceeded 
down the river as far as the ruins of Valverde, at the northern end of the *Jornada del Mu- 
erto.” At this place they crossed the river and returned to Albuquerque, passing through 
Saucilla, Las Lunas, Padillas, &c. From Albuquerque they proceeded up the San Antonio 
cafion to its head in the Sandia mountains; thence northward to the mine and town of Tuerto, 
and thence around the base of the Gold mountains to Santa Fé. 

Leaving Santa Fé on the 28th December, Lieutenant Abert proceeded down the Pecos to San 
Miguel, and thence, by way of Las Vegas, over the same route pursued by Lieutenant Emory 
when entering New Mexico, to Bent’s Fort, on the Arkansas. Thence he followed the usually 
travelled route down the Arkansas, from Santa Fé to Fort Leavenworth, which point he reached 
on March 1, 1847. 

The survey of the Cimmaron route is not specially mentioned in either Major Emory's or 
Lieutenant Abert’s report, and I give here an extract from a letter which I received from Lieu- 
tenant Peck, dated October 9, 1854, in relation to it: “The survey of the Cimmaron route was 
made by me on my return from Santa Fe, in the month of April, 1847. It is nothing but a re- 
connaissance, and was made in the same manner that all other reconnaissances have been made 
in that country, except that I had no means of establishing astronomical positions. "The coun- 
try is eminently favorable to a compass line, and I think it may give a fair idea of the route. 
* * * * The original map on which the plat first appeared is Emory’s map of General 
Kearny’s route to the Pacific. * * * * No report was made of the route, for the reason 
that I made the p on my own —Ü and I did not consider it of sufficient importance 
to comment upon." 

‘From the Canadian to the Arkansas, the may is very nearly level, with scarce a stick of 
timber, immense quantities of sand, and very little water.” 


ROUTE OF COLONEL P. ST. G. COOKE, 1846-47. 


This officer’s report forms a part of House Executive Document No. 41, Ist session 30th 
Congress, and is accompanied by a map of his route, on a scale of 12 miles to an inch; = 
route is also represented on Emory’s map. 

lonel Cooke was sent by General Kearny from La Joya to Santa Fé, to — command of 
the “Mormon battalion,” en route for California. Proceeding to that place, he assumed com- 
mand, and, on the 19th October, 1846, led the battalion, consisting of about four hundred men, 
each company having three mule wagons, down the Rio Grande to a point about three or four 
miles above San Diego on that river. Thence he travelled southwest to Ojo de Vaca, crossing 
there the road from the Copper Mines to the Yanos, Thence, turning more south, he crossed 
the Sierra de los Animos one mile from the Guadalupe Pass, and, passing by the rancho de San 
Bernardino, on the head of the Yaqui river, struck the San Pedro river. He travelled this 


تا all‏ و ی و کی E‏ 


۱ 7 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 55 


stream 48 miles, and then turned northwest 48 miles, to the town of Tucson. From this place 
he continued on by the present route, near the Picacho de Tucson to the Pimas villages on the 
Gila; and thence down that stream to its junction with the Colorado. Crossing the Colorado 
at this point, he proceeded over the desert to Warner's Ranche, and thence to San Diego. 


EXAMINATIONS BY A. WISLIZENUS, M. D., 1846-'47. 


The account and results of this form Senate Mis. Doc. No. 26, 1st session 30th Congress, and 
are entitled: '' Memoir of a tour to Northern Mexico, connected with Colonel Doniphan’ s Expedition, 
in 1846 and 1847. By A. Wislizenus, M. D., with a scientific appendix, and three maps. Wash- 
ington: Tippin & Streeper, printers.—1848.' These maps are, 1st, a map of the country from 
the 25th to the 39th parallel, between the 94th and 107th meridians, on a scale of 50 miles to 
an inch, exhibiting the topography of the route travelled over; 2d, a map or geological sketch 
of the same country, on a scale of 80 miles to an inch; and 3d, a barometrical profile of the 
route, on a horizontal scale of 36 miles to an inch, and a vertical scale of 2,000 feet to the inch, 
the vertical scale being 95 times the horizontal. 

Dr. Wislizenus undertook this scientific tour at his private expense. ene St. Louis in the 
spring of 1846, he followed the Santa Fé road, by the Cimarron route, to Santa Fé. Thence 
he went down the Rio Grande valley to El Paso and Chihuahua. Here the derangement which 
the Mexican war produced kept him for six months ‘‘in a very passive condition” On Colonel - 
Doniphan's arrival in that neighborhood, he accepted a situation in the medical department 
of the army, and returned with the troops, by way of Monterey, to the States. 


EXPLORATION OF BREVET CAPTAIN W. H. WARNER, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1847-48-49. 


Very little of the results of the exploration of Brevet Captain Warner, after he was relieved 
from duty with Major Emory, have been published. He made extensive examination of routes 
along the Pacific and in the Coast mountains, from San Diego to San Francisco, and had nearly 
completed his map of that then unknown section of country, when he was directed to make the 
exploration in the Sierra Nevada, on which he lost his life in an Indian ambuscade. His notes 
and papers passed into the possession of his assistant, Lieutenant Williamson, Topographical 
Engineers, and were thus available to him in his examinations made in 1853— 54, in connexion 
with a route for a railroad to the Pacific. 

The only portion of Captain ele aE Mio to my knowledge, of which a map and 
report were published, was that of his last expedition. This was prepared by Lieutenant Wil- 
liamson, and forms a portion of Senate Ex. Doc. No. 47, Ist session 31st Congress. The map 
of the route is on a scale of 15 miles to an inch. 

The party left Sacramento August 13, 1849, intending to survey as far as Humboldt river, for 
the purpose of finding a practicable railroad route through the Sierra Nevada. They ascended 
the Sacramento valley to Lassen’s, on Deer creek, struck east across the mountains to the valley 
of Pit river, crossed it, and followed its northern bank to its source. The song nens of the 
route compelled them to abandon their wheel vehicles. 

Being embarrassed by sickness, the want of able pack mules, and the lateness of the. season, 
Captain Warner decided to take a party of nine men and proceed to the north, leaving about an 
equal number with the sick, in charge of Lieutenant Williamson, in camp on Goose lake. 
Arriving at Lake Abert, he turned the eastern branch of the Sierra Nevada, and travelled south 
over nearly the same route as Captain Frémont in 1844. In about latitude 42° Captain Warner 


56 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 TO a. D. 1852. 


was surprised on the march by an ambush of Pit River Indians, and he and several of his 
party were killed. "This rendered the further prosecution of the reconnaissance impossible, 
and Lieutenant Williamson returned to Benicia. Captain Warner's note books were saved, and 
from them a sketch of his route, with a report, was made by Lieutenant Williamson. 


RECONNAISSANCE IN CALIFORNIA BY LIEUTENANT G. H. DERBY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1849. 


A report of certain of these examinations forms a part of Senate Ex. Doc. No. 47, Ist session 
31st Congress, and is accompanied by a map of the Sacramento valley, from the American river 
to Butte creek, surveyed and drawn, by order of General Riley, commanding 10th military 
department, by Lieutenant Derby, یرم‎ — September and October, 1849, on 
a scale of ten miles to an inch. 


SURVEY OF,THE MOUTH OF RIO GRANDE, BY — J. D. WEBSTER, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1847. 


The report of this forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 65, Ist session 31st Congress. The map is on 
a scale of an inch to a mile, and exhibits the windings of the river from Matamoras toits mouth. 
SURVEY OF A ROAD FROM vie SMITH TO SANTA FE, BY LIEUTENANT J, H. SIMPSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL 

ENGINKERS, 1849. 

The report of this survey forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 12, Ist session 31st — and is 
accompanied by a map of the route, in four sheets, on a scale of one inch to ten miles. The 
survey was made with chain and compass, checked by astronomical observations made with a 
sextant and chronometer. 

Lieutenant Simpson left Fort Smith about the middle of April. The party travelled by what 
is called the upper wagon road, along the head of Sans Bois creek. Thence, crossing the heads 
of Gaines’ and Coal creeks, (the two branches of the south fork of Canadian,) they struck the 
main Canadian river at Shawneetown, opposite Edwards’ old trading-house. Thence, keeping 
along and over the bluffs bordering the south side of the Canadian as far as Rocky Dell creek, 
they gradually diverged southwest from the river to the Tucumcari Hills. Continuing west, 
they crossed the Gallinas some ten miles above its mouth, struck the Pecos at Anton Chico, trav- 
elled the usual road to Galisteo, by the way of Cañon Blanco and the Lagunas, and thence north 
to Santa Fé. 


RECONNAISSANCE IN THE NAVAJO COUNTRY, BY LIEUT. J. H. SIMPSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1849. 


Lieutenant Simpson’s report of this expedition forms part of Senate Ex. Doc., No. 64, 1st 
session 31st Congress, and is accompanied by a map of the route pursued, on a scale of an 
inch to ten miles. 

This expedition, the object of which was the chastisement of the Navajo Indians, was under 
the command of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel J. M. Washington. Lieutenant Simpson was 
assisted in his duties by Messrs. E. M. Kern and R. H. Kern, and was provided with a sextant 
and chronometer for astronomical observations. 'The whole command left Santa Fé on the 
16th August, 1849, and crossed the Rio Grande at the pueblo of San Domingo. From San 
Domingo they travelled a little north of west to the pueblo of Jemez, on the river of the same 
name. Remaining here a few days to perfect their arrangements, the line of march next lay 
up the Cañon de Peñasco. Travelling on the Navajo trail, they crossed the Rio Puerco and 
Cafiada de Piedra de Lumbre. Leaving the last tributary of the Gulf of Mexico at the head 
of the Cañon de Torrejon, they reached the waters flowing to the Gulf of California, by cross- 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 51 


ing a plateau at the head of the Rio de Chaco. This valley they followed down to the ruins 
of the pueblo Weje-gi. From here they travelled, somewhat north of west, to the heads of 
the Tune-cha creek. Crossing the Sierra de Tune-cha through Pass Washington, they came 
upon the Rio Negro, which flows into the Cañon de Chelly. Thence turning northward, they 
passed around the eastern end of the Cafion de Chelly, and, making a considerable detour to 
the north, struck the Rio de Chelly just below the mouth of the cañon. 

Here they turned southeast and travelled along the southern border of the Cañon de Chelly. 
Striking a little east of south over the Sierra de Laguna, they next descended into the Cañon 
Bonito, which they followed some thirty miles. Crossing the head of the ‘‘ Rio Puerco of the 
west,’’ they then struck the Rio de Zufii, at the Indian pueblo of that name. Here, turning 
eastward and following the Rio de Zufi to the Ojo Pescado, they crossed the Sierra de Zuñi 
(or Madre) by the Zuñi Pass, descended the Cañon del Gallo to the spring of the same name, 
and travelled down the Rio Rito or San José, passing, a few miles south of Covero, to the 
pueblo de Laguna. Thence they continued down the same valley for about fifteen miles, 
when they struck northeast, and, crossing the Rio Puerco about twelve miles above the mouth 
of the San José, reached the Rio Grande at Albuquerque, where the expedition was disbanded, 
on the 22d September, 1849. Lieutenant Simpson proceeded to Santa Fé, where his report 
and map were prepared. l 

; EXPEDITION OF CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY, FIFTH INFANTRY, 1849. 


The report of Captain Marcy forms Senate Ex. Doc., No. 12, 1st session 31st Congress, and 
is accompanied by a map, drawn on a scale of an inch to thirty-six miles, embracing the 
country from the Arkansas river, south, to the 31st parallel, between the 94th and 108th 
meridians. Captain Marcy went from Fort Smith to Santa Fé, over the route surveyed by 
Lieutenant Simpson, Topographical Engineers. Of the remainder of his journey he prepared a 
map from notes taken by his command. He was not supplied with instruments for astro- 
nomical observations; his distances were measured with an odometer. 

From Santa Fé he travelled south along the valley of the Rio Grande, and over the Jornado 
del Muerto to Doña Ana. Turning east, he struck Lieutenant Bryan's trail just before he 
entered the Hueco mountains, and followed it to the Pecos, passing through the Guadalupe 
Pass. Proceeding down the Pecos river to the Emigrant Crossing, he struck, northeast, over 
an unexplored country to Preston, on Red river. His route passed through the White Sand 
hills, near the Big Springs of the. Golatado, QUE. the northern sources of the clear fork of the 
Brazos, and of the north branches of the T 

On his return from the Pecos to Beit TR Harrison separated himself a short 
distance from the command, and was killed by the Indians. 


EXPEDITION TO GREAT SALT LAKE, BY CAPTAIN H. STANSBURY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1849-50. 


The report of this expedition forms Senate Ex. Doc., No. 3, special session, March, 1851, 
and is entitled ۲ Exploration and Survey of the Valley of the Great Salt Lake of Utah, including a 
reconnaissance of a New Route through the Rocky Mountains. By Howard Stansbury, on 
Corps Topographical Engineers, United States army. Philadelphia: Lippincott, Grambo & Co 
1852." It is accompanied by a map of the routes from the Missouri river to the Great Salt 
lake, on.a scale of 1 to 1,000,000, (about an inch to sixteen miles,) and by another of the Great 
Salt lake and vicinity, on a scale of 1 to 240,000, (about four miles to an inch.) 

8 


58 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D 1843 To A. D. 1852. 


Captain Stansbury was assisted throughout by Lieutenant J. W. Gunnison, Topographical 
Engineers, and, during a portion of the time, by Lieutenant G. W. Howland, United States 
rifles. He was supplied with chronometers, sextants, barometers, odometers, theodolites, 
chains, &c. His last barometer was broken on the outward journey, a short distance west of 
Fort Laramie. The expedition consisted of eighteen men, five wagons, and forty-six horses 
and mules. 3 

The party started on the 31st of May, 1849, and travelled in a northwest direction over the 
usual emigrant road from Fort Leavenworth to the Platte river, near Fort Kearny, thence up 
the valley of that river and of the South Fork to the crossing which leads to the North Fork 
at Ash-Hollow. Thence they followed the right bank of the North Fork to Fort Laramie. 
Leaving this place, the train took the usual road along the foot slopes of the Black Hills, but 
frequent examinations were made of the river. At Deer creek they crossed (by a ferry) the 
north fork of the Platte, and thence on the usual emigrant road reached the Sweetwater 
river, which they traced to its source in the South Pass. Thence they followed the Big Sandy 
to its mouth, crossed Green river, and proceeded to Bridger’s Fort. 

At this point; being desirous of discovering a trail to the northern end of the Great Salt 
lake more direct than the emigrant road, Captain Stansbury despatched his train, under Lieu- 
tenant Gunnison, by the Mormon road to Salt Lake city, and on the 20th of August, accom- 
panied by ‘‘ Major James Bridger," left the fort. Following the Mormon road to the crossing 
of Bear river, and then this stream for six miles to the Medicine Buttes, he struck north- 
west across the mountains, and came upon the head of Pumbar's creek, a tributary of Weber's 
river. He attempted to follow it, but was prevented by cafions and precipices. Turning now 
to the northwest, up a branch of the Red Chimney Fork, he reached its head by a good road, 
and thence descended Ogden's river by a difficult path, which, after a mile, led him to so 
narrow and rugged a part of the valley that he was forced to leave it. Diverging to the north 
through Ogden's Hole, he crossed the range of mountains which divide Ogden’ s Hole (or 
valley) from Great Salt lake, and, taking the wagon road, reached Salt Lake city about the 
28th of August. His wagon train had arrived on the 23d. 

On the 12th September Captain Stansbury left Salt Lake city, and took the road roat 
the valley of Roseaux creek and Pannack river to Fort Hall. Returning by the same route to 
Bear river, he passed up through the gorge which this river makes in coming from the 
mountains, and explored Cache valley. 

On the 19th October he left Bear river with five men and sixteen pack mules, to make an 
exploration of the western shores of the Great lake. He travelled west to a mountain ridge 
forming a rocky promontory jutting into the lake, that caused him to turn south. Rounding the 
point, he travelled north along the western base of the same ridge, then west and south over 
an artemisia and sand plain, and finally struck for Pilot Peak. From this he turned southeast 
over the salt desert, and returned to Great Salt Lake city. This journey, which Bonneville's 
trappers failed to perform, was not effected by Captain Stansbury without great suffering and 
hardships. ; 

Lieutenant MR had meanwhile been engaged in surveying the Great Salt lake and 
Utah valley. His operations were, however, stopped by the cold weather i in the latter part of 
November. 

The survey was resumed as early as possible in the next year, and continued until August 
12, 1850. 


| 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 TO A. D. 1852. 59 


On the 28th of August they left Salt Lake city with a train of pack mules. Passing 
through the Wasatch mountains by the ‘‘ Golden Pass” formed by Cañon creek, they followed 
this creek to its head and struck Bauchman’s creek, a branch of East Cafion creek, a tributary 
of Weber's river.  Fording Bauchman’s creek, they continued east over the prairie of Parley's 
Park to the sources of Silver creek, which flows into Weber's river. Sending the train on the 
Mormon road to the ford of Weber river, Captain Stansbury travelled southerly into the 
Kamas prairie, exploring the heads of Weber and Timpanogos rivers, which lie on opposite 
borders of this plain. Returning thence, he followed the right bank of Weber's river for 17 
miles, and rejoined his train at the ford. 

Crossing Red Fork, the party now travelled northeasterly up the valley of that stream to its 
head; thence they descended Yellow creek, a tributary of Bear river, and passing close around 
the base of the hills called the Needles, crossed Bear river about five miles south of Medicine 
Butte, near Tar Springs. By an open, easy road they passed the summit of the divide between 
the waters of the Great Salt lake and those of Green river, at the point where Muddy Fork 
takes its source, and reached Bridger's Fort. 

Desiring to explore a direct route on their homeward journey, they left Bridger’ 8 Fort under 
the guidance of James Bridger, crossed Green river at the mouth of Bitter creek, and ascended 
the latter to its source. From this point they passed the sources of Snake river and crossed the 
divide between the waters of the Gulf of California and the Atlantic, at Bridger's Pass. 
Fording the north fork of the Platte at a favorable point, they passed to the north of the 
Medicine Bow Butte, and thence took a direction southwest, which led them by the sources of 
Medicine Bow and Laramie rivers to the Black Hills, whence they reached the head of Crow 
creek, a tributary of the south fork of the Platte. They followed Crow creek for 14 or 15 
miles, when, finding that it turned too much to the south to afford a direct easterly route, (as 
Lieut. W. B. Franklin's reconnaissance in 1845 had indicated,) they left the stream and 
travelled north along the spurs which project from the eastern face of the Black Hills. Crossing 
the heads of Lodge Pole creek, they encamped in the Shyenne Pass, on the heads of the Chug- 
water, and sent to Fort Laramie for provisions, intending to descend Lodge Pole creek to the 
south fork of the Platte. But while engaged in exploring the country in this vicinity, Captain 
Stansbury | met with a severe accident that precluded the possibility of continuing the survey, 

the party proceeded down the Chugwater to Fort Laramie, and returned to Fort Leaven- 


and the 
worth by the route they came over in 1849. 


— MARCH OF RIFLE REGIMENT TO OREGON, 1849 


An account of thi d march by Major Osborne Cross, A. Q. M., forms an appendix to the report 
of the Quartermaster General’s report to the Secretary of War. Itis printed in House Ex. Doc. 
No. 1, 2d session 31st Congress. 

"This regiment, under Colonel Loring, marched from Fort Leavenworth to the Columbia 
river, with wagons. It passed over the same route as Captain Stansbury did to Bear river, 
then turned down Bear river to Bear Spring, and crossed over to Fort Hall. The command 
travelled all the way down the left bank of Snake river to Fort Boisée, and thence through the 
Grande Ronde and over the Blue mountains to Fort Walla-Walla. It encountered great 
difficulties and lost many animals. 


60 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 


EXPEDITION TO THE RED RIVER OF THE NORTH, 1849. 

The report of the commander of this expedition, Brevet Major S. Woods, 6th infantry, U.S. A., 
forms} House Ex. Doc. No. 51, Ist session 31st Congress. That of Captain John Pope, Topo- 
‘graphical Engineers, who was attached to the command, is to be found in Senate Ex. Doc. 
No. 42, 1st session 31st Congress, and is accompanied by a map of the route, on a scale of an 
inch to 20 miles, based on the map of the Hydrographical Basin of the Upper Mississippi, by 
Mr. Nicollet, most of which latter map is here repeated. On the outward journey, Captain 
Pope measured the road with an odometer, took courses with a compass, and made observations 

for latitude with a sextant. . 

` ` The expedition started from Fort Snelling, crossed the Mississippi, advanced up the left 
bank to Sauk rapids, recrossed the Mississippi, and proceeded along the Red river trail in a 
northwest direction, passing near White Bear lake, and crossing Red river above its junction 
with the Bois de Sioux river, and again at Graham’s Point. Diverging gradually from the Red 
river towards the sources of its tributaries flowing from the plateau of Miniwakan lake, they 
finally reached Pembina. The command returned to Fort Snelling over the same route. 
Captain Pope ascended the Red river in a canoe to Otter Tail lake; thence he made a portage 
to Crow Wing river, and paddled down مسر‎ stream to apse ee From this — he 
returned to Fort Snelling. i 

RECONNAISSANCES IN TEXAS, BY BREVET LIEUTENANT COLONEL J. E. JOHNSTON, LIEUTENANTS M. L. 
: SMITH, WM. F. SMITH, F. T. BRYAN, AND N. MICHLER, reme ENGINEERS, — LIEUTEN- 

ANT H. C. WHITING, ENGINEERS, IN THE YEARS 1849-50, AND ’ 

No reports have as yet been published giving the whole extent of the explorations made in 
"Texas by the above mentioned officers. The following notice of such data as have come to my 
۱ knowledge will therefore be the more acceptable. The reports of explorations that have béen 
published form part of the Senate Ex. Doc. No. 64, 1st session 31st Congress. The report of 
Captain S. G. French, A. Q. M., of the southern route from San Antonio to El Paso, forms 
also a part of this document, Shick is accompanied by a map of the routes described, on a scale 
of an inch to twenty miles. 

Lieutenant Wm. F. Smith, in February, 1849, started to explore a road from San Antonio to 
El Paso. He travelled northwest to the San Saba river, via Fredericksburg, then westward to 
its source, from which he passed over to the Pecos at Live Oak creek. He then proceeded to the 
Limpia river, and made his way to the Rio Grande by the road which strikes it about latitude 
30° 38’, thence he travelled to El Paso. He returned over nearly the same route to the Pecos, 
but continued down that river to about twenty-five miles below Live Oak creek; thence he 
passed east to the San Pedro river, travelled south to near its mouth, where he crossed it, and 
struck east to San Antonio. Lieutenant W. H. €. Whiting was with Lieutenant Smith on this 
reconnaissance. 

Lieutenant F. T. Bryan left San Antonia, June 14, 1849, for El Paso, and taking nearly the 
same route, as Lieutenant Smith, to the San Saba river, crossed it, and travelled north to the 
north branch of Brady’ s 8 river, where he struck west along the head of the Rio Concho, and 
thence to the Pecos at the Horse-head crossing. Fording the river he travelled up its right 
bank to Salinas creek; thence he struck northwestward to Delaware creek, ascended it to its 
source, and crossed the Guadalupe mountains, through the Guadalupe Pass; thence he pro- 
ceeded to the Sierra de los Alamos, and thence through the Sierra Hueco to El Paso. 


1 ITN ges gu NEU EPOD ILLU Hy 
۱۳۲2/۷: تمه‎ EA c au CIE Qe ne Dar rni RU and TOT 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A. D. 1852. 61 


Colonel Johnston, in 1849, directed the construction of a road for the troops over the route 
discovered by Lieutenant Wm. F. Smith. From Leon spring he attempted, but without success, 
to find a more direct wagon route west, going north of the Limpia. 

On arriving at El Paso, Colonel Johnston and Lieutenant Bryan surveyed the vale of the 
Rio Grande to Dofia Ana, while Lieutenant ‘Wm. F. Smith examined the Organ mountains 
north to Salina de San AHN; and the Sacramento mountains, between the cañon del Perro 
and La Cienega. 

‘Colonel Johnston and party returned to the Pecos by the route that Lieutenant Bryan had 
explored through the Guadalupe Pass; thence they passed down the Pecos river to the mouth 
of Live Oak creek, from which point they examined the direct route to Fort Inge, across the 
heads of the San Pedro and Nueces rivers. During Colonel Johnston’s reconnaissance the 
roads were — with an odometer, and numerous observations were made with the 
sextant. 

Lieutenant N. Michler, in 1849, made a reconnaissance of the country from Corpus Christi 
to Fort Inge, along the valleys of the Nueces, Leona, and Frio rivers, for the purpose of opening 
a military road. 

Lieutenant Michler then examined the route from San Antonio to Fort Washita, passing 
through Austin, Navarro, Dallas, and Preston, and thence to the emigrant Crossing of the Pecos. 
The return route from Fort Washita lay up the Red river to the mouth of the Little Witchita, 
thence west to the Big Witchita, thence southwest to the Double Mountain Fork, thence to the 
Big Springs of the Colorado, and thence through the White Sand hills to the Pecos. From 
this point he returned to San Antonio over nearly the route previously explored by Lieutenant 
Bryan as far as the head of the Concho, where he struck southwest to the San Saba, and thence, 
by Forts Mason and Martin Scott, to San Antonio. The distances along the route from 
Fort Washita to the Pecos were chained. No mention is made of astronomical observations 
being taken on this journey. 

Captain R. B. Marcy, fifth infantry, had just ی‎ over the portion of the route from the 
Pecos to the Double Mountain Fork, and gave Lieutenant Michler information concerning it, 
"They both considered the Double Mountain Fork to be tributary to the main Brazos; but 
Captain Marcy's examinations in 1854 make it appear to be a branch of the Clear Fork of the 
Brazos. 

An examination w was 2 also made of the Colorado, with the view of i improving its navigation, 
by Lieutenant Wm. F. Smith, assisted by Messrs. E A. Howard and J. F. Minter. 

Lieutenant Whiting reconnoitred the route between San Antonio and Preston, via Freder- 
icksburg, Fort Croghan, Fort Gates, Fort Graham, and Fort Worth. This route was also 
examined by Lieutenant Bryan, Topographical Engineers. 

"The above items are mainly from the printed reports or maps. The following information in 
regard to the unpublished maps of the explorations in Texas, in 1850— 51, have been obtained 
from the officers engaged in the surveys. In the Topographical Bureau there are two maps, 
both incomplete, of these explorations; and each contains routes not upon the other. 

In January, 1849, Lieutenants Bryan and Michler, Topographical Engineers, examined 
Aranzas and Corpus Christi bays, and the road from Corpus Christi to San Antonia, via San 
Patricio and Calaveras. In February, 1849, they made a reconnaissance of the lower road from 
San Antonio to the crossing near Presidio de Rio Grande, via Fort eee and also of a road 
from the San Fernando Crossing to San Antonio. 


62 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 TO A. D. 1852. 


_In May, 1849, Lieutenant Michler examined the road from San Antonio to Port Lavacca; and 

in June and July, 1849, the road between Corpus Christi and Fort Inge, along the Nueces, 
Frio, and Leona rivers. 
. In May, 1850, Lieutenants Wm. F. Smith and F. T. Bryan, Topographical Engineers, 
surveyed the Rio Grande with boats from El Paso to Presidio del Norte, where they met 
Lieutenant Colonel Johnston, Topographical Engineers, who, assisted by Messrs. Howard and 
Minter, had reconnoitred the country between the first ford of Devil's river and Presidio del 
Norte. Colonel Johnston and his assistants failed in their attempt to transport the boat to a 
point below the falls of the Rio Grande. The reconnaissance was, however, continued along 
the river, touching it at different points as far as the Pecos. A map of these reconnaissances, 
on a scale of ten miles to an inch, is in the Topographical Bureau. 

From August to November, 1850, Lieutenants M. L. Smith and N. Michler examined a redd 
from San Antonio to Ringgold barracks, via Fort Merrill, of which we have no map. "They 
also surveyed the Rio Grande from Ringgold barracks to a point eighty miles above the mouth 
of the Pecos. 

In April, 1851, Lieutenant Bryan laid out and made a road from Austin to Fort Mason, of 
which we have no map. 

In April, 1851, Cólonel Johnston reconnoitred the western frontier of Texas from the head- 
waters of the Nueces to Fort Belknap, via the headwaters of the Llano, San Saba, Concho, 
and Clear Fork of Brazos. Lieutenant Bryan accompanied General Smith, in 1851, on his tour 
to establish posts along the western frontier of Texas; and he made numerous reconnaissances 
between San Antonio and Fort Belknap, and between the latter and Fort Graham. 

There were other surveys and reconnaissances made by these officers; but the maps are 
not available, and I have experienced more difficulty in compiling the map of Texas than that 
of any other portion. "Throughout most of the above examinations astronomical observations 
were made for latitude. The longitude of San Antonio was determined by Colonel Johnston 
by moon culminations. 

In April, 1851, Lieutenants W. F. Smith and N. Michler were placed on duty on the United 
States Mexican Boundary Survey. Lieutenant Bryan left Texas in the spring of 1852; Lieu- 
tenant M. L. Smith in November, 1852; Colonel Johnston in the spring of 1853. 


MAP OF THE TERRITORY OF THE UNITED STATES WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, ETC., 1850. 

To this Map the following title was affixed: ‘‘A map of the United States and their Terri- 
tories, from the Mississippi river to the Pacific Ocean, and of part of Mexico; compiled in the 
Bureau of the Corps of Topographical Engineers, under a resolution of the United States 
Senate, from the best authorities which could be obtained." 


This map was published on a scale of 50 miles. to an inch, and contained material from the 


greater portion of the maps I have already described. 


"RECONNAISSANCE ON THE PECOS, BY Mn. R. H. KERN, 1860. 


A military reconnaissance of the Rio Pecos, as far south as the Bosque Grande, was B mado, 
in 1850, by Mr. R. H. Kern, who was attached to the command of Captain H. B. Judd, 3d 
artillery. It was probably made with a compass and estimated distances, and without any 
astronomical observations; but of this I have no positive information. The map of the recon- 
naissance was used by Lieut. Parke in his compiled map of New Mexico in 1851. 


| 
| 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To A Dp. 1852. 63 


MAP OF NEW MEXICO, COMPILED BY LIEUT. J. G. PARKE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1851. 


This map, by Lieut. Parke, was a careful compilation of all the available and reliable 
information in relation to New Mexico which could be obtained at that date from trappers and 
hunters, as well as from actual sürvey. It was prepared by him, while in that country, by 
order of Brevet Colonel Jno. Munroe, United States army, commanding 9th military depart- 
ment, and was drawn by R. H. Kern in 1851. It was subsequently reduced in the Bureau of 
Topographical Engineers, and published on a scale of thirty-six miles to an inch. 


RECONNAISSANCE FROM SANTA FE TO FORT LEAVENWORTH, IN 1851, BY CAPTAIN J. POPE, TOPOGRAPHICAL 
ENGINEERS. 
Captain Pope travelled on the Cimarron route as far as Cedar creek, where he turned north 
and struck the Arkansas at the Big Timbers. Crossing this river he took a northeast course 
to the Smoky Hill Fork, and came upon it near where Captain Frémont struck it in 1844. 
From this point he travelled down the stream. 
The map constructed by Captain Pope would make it appear that what had been considered 
the source of Smoky Hill Fork, taking its rise near the sources of Bijou and Boiling Spring 
creeks, was probably that of the Big Sandy or some other tributary of the Arkansas. 


SURVEY OF CREEK BOUNDARY, BY CAPTAIN SITGREAVES AND LIEUT. WOODRUFF, TOPOGRAPHICAL 
ENGINEERS, 1850-'51. 

The report and map of this survey form printed House Ex. Doc. No. 104, 1st session 35th 
Congress. The map is on a scale of 1 to 600,000, or about an inch to nine and a half miles. 
Chain and compass were used in the survey, and the longitude of Fort Gibson was determined 
by moon culminations. A sextant was used to determine the latitudes. 

The northern line begins on the parallel which passes near the mouth of the Red fork of the 
Arkansas, at a point a little west of north from Fort Gibson, and continues west on the parallel 
to the 100th meridian. Of this line about seventy-nine miles were surveyed in 1849 by 
Captain L. Sitgreaves, Topographical Engineers, and one hundred and twenty miles by Lieut. 
I. C. Woodruff, Top. Engineers, in 1850, who also surveyed the north fork of the Canadian from 
this boundary line to its mouth. "The boundary was not ipM SEES west of the 99th meridian. 


RECONNAISSANCE DOWN THE ZURI AND COLORADO RIVERS, BY CAPTAIN L. SITGREAVES, UNITED STATES 
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1851. 

The report of this forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 59, 2d session of 32d Congress, and is accom. 
panied by a map of the routes pursued, on a scale of ten miles to an inch. The reconnaissance 
was made with a compass and estimated distances, and chécked by astronomical observation 
made with a sextant. 

This expedition, under Captain Sitgreaves, assisted by Lieut. J. G. Parke, RO 
Engineers, Mr. R. H. Kern as topographer, and Dr. S. W. Woodhouse, surgeon and naturalist, 
was ‘organized at Santa Fé, New Mexico, and consisted of about twenty persons, including 
packers and servants; pack mules being used for transportation of provisions, &c. The party 
accompanied an expedition against the Navajoes as far as Zufii, which point they reached by 
the usual road from Albuquerque on the Ist of September, 1852. From this point, with an 
escort of thirty men of the 2d artillery, the exploring party travelled down the Zuii river to 


64 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1843 To a. D. 1852. 


within ten miles of its mouth, when they left the river, and, crossing a basaltic ridge, struck 
the Colorado Chiquito, down which they travelled until they were opposite the northern end of 
the San Francisco mountains. Here they left the river and travelled southwest, around the 
base of the mountains, to Leroux Spring. Leaving this they passed around the southern base 
of Bill Williams" mountain, and thence pursued a course a little north of west, over a broken, 
basaltic, and barren country, to the head of Yampai creek. From this point they travelled 
westward to the Great Colorado, at the head of the Mohave valley; thence down the valley of 
the Colorado to Fort Yuma, and thence by the usual emigrant road over the Colorado desert, 
by Warner's Pass, to San Diego, California, where the party was disbanded. | 


RECONNAISSANCE OF THE COLORADO RIVER, BY LIEUTENANT DERBY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1851. 

The report of this forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 81, 1st session 31st Congress, and is accom- 
panied by a map, on a scale of 4 miles to an inch, of the Colorado river from its mouth to Fort 
Yuma. Lieutenant Derby was supplied with a sextant and chronometer. 

On the 1st of November, 1851, he sailed from San Francisco on board of a schooner carrying 
provision for the garrison at Fort Yuma. Doubling the southern extremity of Lower California, 
he passed up the gulf to the mouth of the Colorado, and thence (the vessel drawing 8 feet) to 
Howard's Point. Above this he ascended, in a small boat, to Heintzleman's Point, about one- 
third of the distance from the gulf to Fort Yuma, where he met Major Heintzleman. This 
officer furnished him with a sketch of the river between Fort Yuma and the place of meeting, 
and from this point he returned to San Francisco. 

RECONNAISSANCE OF LIEUTENANT WOODRUFF, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1852. 

. Lieutenant I. C. Woodruff, Topographical Engineers, made a reconnaissance, in 1852, of a 
portion of the Kansas river; of Walnut creek; of Pawnee Fork; and of other streams lying 
between the Smoky Hill Fork of the Kansas and the Arkansas rivers. "These examinations 
were made for the purpose of selecting proper sites for military posts. The map and report 
prepared by Lieutenant Woodruff have never been published. "The former was made from 
compass notes and estimated distances, checked by the astronomical determinations of Captain 
Frémont and Major Emory. 

EXPEDITION TO THE SOURCES OF RED RIVER, BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY, UNITED STATES INFANTRY, 1852. 

The report of this expedition forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 54, 2d session 32d Congress, Ho. 
Ex. Doc. 1st session 33d Congress, and is accompanied by numerous illustrations and by two 
maps, one of which exhibits the country from the 91st to the 114th meridian, lying between 
the 31st and 38th parallels, drawn on a scale of 24 miles to an inch; the other, on a scale of 
10 miles to an inch, shows the country surrounding the sources of Red river. 

Captain Marcy was assisted by Brevet Captain G. B. McClellan, Engineers, who made 
astronomical observations for latitude and longitude by means of a sextant and ''pocket lever 
watch." The routes were mostly measured with an odometer, and observations were taken 
with a barometer. Dr. G. G. Shumard accompanied the expedition as surgeon and geologist. 

Starting on the 2d of May with his company, Captain Marcy marched to Red river, at the 
mouth of the Little Witchita, and up the right bank of the latter stream to the mouth of the 
Big Witchita, where they crossed Red river. Proceeding westward, between Red river and a 
branch of Cache creek, they struck the north Fork of Red river at the west end of the Witchita 
mountains, and followed that stream to its source in the Llano Estacado. Here an excursion 


EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1843 To a. D. 1852. — 65 


was made to the valley of the Canadian river at Sand creek, in order to test and check the 
position of the party by the surveys that had been made along that stream. They now travelled 
south to the Kech-ah-que-ho-no, or main Red river, and, leaving their train at the place where 
the river comes out from the bluff of the Llano Estacado, ascended it to the spring which forms 
its sourée; From this they returned down the left bank of the river to the Witchita mountains, 
which were examined, and thence they proceeded to Fort Arbuckle, where the expedition 


terminated. 


CHAT A ER. 1A. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 


komm I. I. STEVENS AND CAPTAIN G. B. MCCLELLAN, U. 8۰ ENG., EXP. AND SUR. R. R. ROUTE, 1853—54—55.—LIEUTENANT R. ARNOLD, 
. 8. A., SURVEY, 1854.—F. W. LANDER, C. E. RECONNAISSANCE, ted — CAPTAIN G. W. GUNNISON, T. E., AND CAPTAIN E. G. BECK- 


wir, U. 8. EXP AND SUR. R. R. ROUTE, 1853.—CAPTAIN E BECKWITH, U. S. A, EXP. AND SUR. R. R. ROUTE, 1854.— 
Cart HIPPLE, T. E, EXP. AND SUR R. R. ROUTE, Pa R NI E. B. phare T. E, SURVEY FOR RAILROAD 
ROUTE, specto —Li1EUTENANT J. G. PARKE, T. E, EXP. AND SUR. R. R. ROUTE, 1854.— CAPTAIN J. POPE, T. E, EXP. AND SUR. 


R. R. ROUTE, 1854.—LIEUTENANT J. G. PARKE, T. E, EXP. AND SUR. R. R. FER 1854-55. ie R. 8. WILLIAMSON, 
T. E, AND LIEUTENANT H. L. ABBOTT, T. E, EXP. AND SUR. R. R. ROUTE, 1855.—MAJOR W H. EMORY, U. 8. A., UNITED STATES 
CAN BOUNDARY SURVEY, 1849 To 1855.—CapTain J. L. RENO, U. S. A., SURVEY, 1853.— CAPTAIN R. B. MA ۲ و8‎ 
LORATION, 1854.— ALEXANDER ROSS, FUR HUNTERS OF THE FAR WEST, 1855. —Ma anou OF COLONEL STEPTOE’S COMMAND TO 
CALIFORNIA, 18547 95.—LIEUTENANT J. WITHERS, U. S. A, SURVEY OF ROAD, 1854.—LIEUTENANT G. H. DERBY, T. E. SURVEY 
ROADS, 55.—LIEUTENANT G. H. MENDEL, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE, 1855.—CAPTAIN J. H. میج یو‎ T. E., SURVEY ROADS, 1855.— - 
UTENANT G. K. WARREN, T. E, RECONNAISSANCE, 1855 —LIEUTENANT F. T. BRYAN, T gin و‎ 1855.— LIEUTENANT 

J, 0. AMORY, U. B. A. RECONNOISSANCE IN 1855.—MAJOR MERRILL, U. 8. A., ۱ N 1855.—LIgUTENANT I. N. MOORE, 
U. S. A., MAP PART OF NEW MEXICO, 1855.—LIEUTENANT E. L. HARTZ, U. 8. A., RECONNAISSANCE, 1856.—LIEUTENANT F. T. BRYAN, 


T. E, SURVEY OF ROAD, 1856 — CAPTAIN J. H. DICKER v. SURVEY ROAD, 1856.—LI1EUTENANT W. D. SMITH, U. S. A., 


ROUTE, 1856.—CAPTAIN A. SULLY, U. 8. An خسن چیه را و سوت‎ G. K. WARREN, T. E., RECONNAISSANCE MISSOURI 
AND YELLOWSTONE, 1856.—EXPLORATIONS ORDERED IN 1857. 
EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE NEAR THE FORTY-SEVENTH AND FORTY-NINTH 
PARALLELS, 1853-54-55. 

THE reports of this exploration and survey will be found in Volume I,* Senate Ex. Doc. No. 
78, 2d session 33d Congress; and House Ex. Doc. No. 91, 2d session 33d Congress.—Quarto 
edition. 

They are accompanied by a map, in three sheets, drawn on a scale of 1 to 1,200,000, 
exhibiting the entire exploration; and a sheet of profile on a horizontal scale of 1 to 3,000,000, 
the vertical scale being 1 to 60,000, or fifty times greater. 

A brief report of the progress of the survey was published in Senate Ex. Doc. No. 29, 1st 
session 33d Congress, which is accompanied by a map of the route from St. Paul to Fort 
Union, drawn on a scale of 1 to 1,200,00. 

A nearly complete report is contained in House Doc. No. 129, 1st session 33d Congress, 
accompanied by a profile and map, in three sheets, showing the entire route, drawn on a scale 
of 1 to 1,200,000. This map is, however, not so complete as the one in the quarto edition. 

An additional report has also been made by Governor Stevens, which will appear in a subse. ` 
quent volume with numerous landscape illustrations. ۱ 

This expedition, as first organized, consisted of four separate parties. The one under 
Governor Stevens’ personal supervision, operated from St. Paul westward towards the mouth 
of White Earth river; thence on the prairies lying along the Missouri river to the Rocky 
mountains; and then among the passes of that region. Another, under Brevet Captain G. B. 

* Vol. I also contains the report of the Secretary of War and Captain A. A. Humphreys on the comparative advantages 
of the routes examined. These are accompanied by a map of the Territory of the United States, from the Mississippi to the 
Pacific, on a scale of 1 to 3,000,000, and a sheet of profiles of all the routes on a horizontal scale of 1 to 3,000,000, and a 
vertical scale of 1 to 60,000. 

1 Ordered by the Senate at the 2d session 35th Congress. 


EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 To A. p. 1857. 67 


McClellan, Engineers, began at Fort Vancouver, on the Columbia, operated northeastward, 
examining the passes of the Cascade range ; and then eastward to join Governor Stevens’ 
party. Another party, under Lieutenant A. J. Donelson, Engineers, examined the Missouri 
river from its mouth to the Yellowstone, where a junction was made with that under 
Governor Stevens. The fourth party, under Lieutenant R. Saxton, U. S. Art., conducted a 
reconnaissance from Fort Walla-Walla to the Bitter Root valley, where a depot was established. 

The party under the immediate supervision of Governor Stevens took the field at St. Paul's 
on the 8th June. The principal engineer and scientific assistants consisted of Lieutenant - 
C. Grover, U. S. Art.; Dr. George Suckley, surgeon and naturalist; Messrs. F. W. Lander and 
A. W. Tinkham, civil engineers; Mr. J. Lambert, topographer; Mr. J. M. Stanley, artist; Mr. 
G. W. Stevens, assistant astronomer; and Mr. J. Moffett and Mr. J. Doty, meteorologists. 
Governor Stevens failed in securing the services of the officer designed to take charge of the 
astronomical observations. 

The party was well supplied with suitable instruments. Odometers, compasses, barometers, 
thermometers, sextants, chronometers, and a portable astronomical transit of twenty-six inches 
focal length, (which latter was not used.) 

Governor Stevens and party left St. Paul June 8, and crossed the Mississippi at Sauk 
Rapids. Several other crossings were examined for railroad bridges. 

They then took the Red river trail, and, on arriving at Pike lake, Lieutenant Grover was 
detached to make a side reconnaissance. 

The main party proceeded to make an examination of the railroad line to Fort Union, 
crossing the Shayenne river twice and passing some twenty-five miles south of Miniwakan lake. 
Mr. Lander also made a reconnaissance of the valley of the Shayenne river between the two 
crossings; also of a portion of the Cóteau du Missouri, some twenty miles westward of the 
general route, and of the upper valley of Mouse river. 

Lieutenant Grover, on being detached, examined a route from Pike lake towards Moose 
Island lakes; thence deflected to the south, and followed up the eastern bank of Lake Travers 
and Bois de Sioux river; thence by the Dead Colt Hillock and Butte des Os, and through the 
valley of Mouse river to Fort Union. His trail joined that pursued by the main party on 
Mouse River valley. During the reconnoissance he was supplied with odometer, compass, and 
meteorological instruments. 

Lieutenant Donelson and party—consisting of Lieutenant John Mullan, 1st artillery, Mr. Wm. 
Graham, and six enlisted men—left St. Louis in a steamboat on the 21st of May, and arrived 
at Fort Union, on the Missouri river, July 3. On the passage a reconnaissance of the river 
was made. Astronomical observations with a sextant, and meteorological observations with a 
barometer, being taken. Collections in natural history were also made. The topographical 
sketches of this examination were mostly lost afterwards on the Isthmus of Panama, and the 
map was made from incomplete notes. 

While waiting the arrival of Governor Stevens, Lieutenant Donelson reconnoitred the country 
in the vicinity of Fort Union, travelling northwest to a point about opposite the head of the 
Big Muddy, then nearly northeast to the Grand Coteau, at a point near the head of the White 
Earth, then nearly southwest to that stream, then down it a few miles, and thence back to Fort 
Union. This examination was made without a barometer, and distances were estimated. 

On the 9th of August the expedition moved from Fort Union in two parties. One under the 
command of Lieutenant Donelson, intending to examine the route near the forty-ninth parallel, 
and the other to take the route of Milk river travelled by the American Fur Company’s wagons. 


68 EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 To A D. 1857. 


Both parties, however, united at Big Muddy river, and the route proposed for Lieutenant Don- 
elson was abandoned. The entire party then took the road to Fort Benton, which, leaving the 
Missouri at the mouth of Milk river, follows this stream to the western end of the Bear's Paw 
mountains, and there crosses over the prairie to the Missouri at Fort Benton. 

On the 3d of September, Mr. Tinkham, with a few men, left the main party at Bear's Paw 
mountains, and examined the valley of Milk river nearly to the 49th parallel. Thence he pro- 
ceeded to the Three Buttes, (there are also three peaks of this name lying on the source of 
Lewis river.) He then pursued a southwest course to Maria’s river, and crossing this stream 
took a southeast direction to Fort Benton. 

On the 11th of September, Mr. J. M. Stanley left the Maria's river, near Fort Benton, and 
proceeded to the Cypress mountains, in the British Possessions, from which place he returned 
to Fort Benton, passing near the Three Buttes and Lake Pakokee. 

On the 9th of September, 1853, Lieutenant Mullan, with a small party. left Fort Benton to 
visit the Flat Head camp reported to be *beyond the Muscle Shell," designing to conduct a 
delegation to the council to be held at St. Mary's village. A barometrical profile of the route 
was to be taken by Mr. Burr, but on the 10th the barometer became unfit for service. 

Crossing the Missouri, Lieutenant Mullan travelled in a southeast direction, passing along 
the sources of Judith river, until he reached what he calls the Muscle Shell river. This stream 
was probably the Yellowstone river, as will be seen by comparing his map and description with 
those of Captain Clarke in Lewis and Clarke's Expedition.* Lieutenant Mullan afterwards 
agreed with my opinion when I called his attention to the matter. 

* Governor Stevens, in his reports, always speaks of this stream as the Muscle Shell river. As I felt compelled to differ 
from him in compiling the general map, I submit herewith the evidence in favor of my opinion 

1, Two points of the routes of the reconnaissances made under Governor Stevens, viz: the. mouth of ihe Yellowstone 
and the Hot Springs, near the source of the Missouri river, are also on the trail of the reconnaissance of Captain Clarke. 
Having laid down the Yellowstone river from Captain Clarke’s map, assuming Governor Stevens’ position for these two 
common points as correct, I found the Yellowstone to occupy nearly the position where Lieutenant Mullan places the Muscle 
Shell. 

2. Lieutenant Mullan travelled eighty miles south of the so-called Muscle Shell, without reaching the Yellowstone, which 
would require an error of not less than eighty miles in Captain Clarke’s map at this point—a thing very improbable, 
cially as from the survey which I made of the Yellowstone from its mouth to Powder river, it was found that the position 
of the latter point was nearly correct, as laid down from Captain Clarke’s map, in the manner stated. 

3. The description of this portion of the Yellowstone by Capt. Clarke corresponds well with that of the Muscle Shell given 
by Lieutenant Mullan. Captain Clarke says, in his Journal of July 16, 1806: ** Although just leaving a high snowy mount- 
ain, the Yellowstone is a bold, rapid, and deep stream, one hundred and twenty yards in width." Lieutenant Mullan says, in 
his journal of September 13, 1853, in speaking of the Muscle Shell: ‘‘This river is about forty to fifty yards wide, and 
between two and four feet deep, with a very rapid current; the current is much more so where we struck it than the Mis- 
souri itself. The stream, during the high water season, judging from the portion of the bed at present dry, is about one hundred and twenty 
yards wide.” Sons ee ee Cos Clarke passed down. 

Captain Clark says: “Th t the ri ugh and rocky, and still retain great quantities of 
snow ; and two other high snowy mountains ma may he ó ditisquitbed, bearing north fifteen or twenty miles, and the other 
nearly east. 9 9 s At the distance of nine miles from the mountains, a river” (called on the map Shield's river,) 
* discharges itself in the Yellowstone from the northwest, under a high rocky cliff.” 

Lieutenant Mullan says, (journal of September 19,) “ The country south of the Muscle Shell, extending to the base of the 


west fork coming from the Snow mountains, which was well wooded, and as large and rapid as the northwest fork, with 
which it made an angle of ۳ 

Lieutenant Mullan's northwest fork I take to be Captain Clarke's Shidd’s river, and the southwest fork, the Yellowstone. The 
liccc ما ی‎ E o eee — 


EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 69 


Crossing the Muscle Shell (Yellowstone) he travelled southeast for eighty miles, where he 
met the Flathead (Selish) Indians, and then returned to the Muscle Shell, (Yellowstone.) 

Travelling up this stream to where a river comes in from the northwest, (probably Shields' 
river,) he ascended this stream, and crossing the Belt mountains, struck a stream ee 
Smith’s river of Lewis and Clarke) running into the Missouri. 

Following down the valley of this river for a day, they left it, crossed another mountain range, 
and reached and forded the Missouri. Continuing west, Lieutenant Mullan crossed the divide 
between the Missouri and Columbia, through the Hell-Gate Pass, at the source of the Little 
Blackfoot Fork of the Hell-Gate river. Following down the latter stream he proceeded to the 
Bitter Root or St. Mary’s river, and along it to Fort Owen or Mission of St. Mary. 

Lieutenant Saxton arrived at Fort Benton on the 12th of September. He had been charged 
with establishing a depot of supplies at St. Mary’s village, and left the Dalles on the 18th of 
July, 1853. His party consisted of Lieutenants Robert McFeely and Richard Arnold, Messrs. 
Arnold and Hoyt, and forty-nine enlisted men, packers, &c. They were provided with barome- 
ters, compasses, sextants, and chronometers. The distances were estimated. The party 
followed the emigrant trail near the Columbia to Walla-Walla. On the 30th July they left 
that place and travelled in a northeast direction, crossing Snake river at the mouth of the Pelouse 
in canoes. 

At the Spokane river their only mercurial barometer was idt and observations were con- 
tinued with an aneroid. They travelled up the Spokane river to the Cœur d' Alene river, and 
up this to the Cœur d’ Alene prairie, where they struck north to Clarke's Fork. Their route 
was then up Clarke's Fork to near the place where it is formed by the union of the Bitter Root 
river with the Flathead river. Here the road leaves the stream a short distance and passes 
over to the Flathead river. Lieutenant Saxton left this latter stream at the mouth of Jocko 
river, and crossed over to the Bitter Root Fork, at the mouth of Hell-Gate river, and thence 
proceeded along it to the Mission of St. Mary. 

At St. Mary the party separated, Lieutenant Arnold being left in charge of the depot. On 
the 2d of September Lieutenant McFeely, with nineteen men, returned to the Dalles by the 
Nez Percés trail, which ascends the Bitter Root to near its head, then turns west through very 
difficult. mountains to the sources of the Kooskoosky. Lieutenant McFeely made no map of 
his route. 

lise نس‎ proceeded by the way of Blackfoot river across the mountains, through the 
Blackfoot or Cadotte’s Pass, to Fort Benton. Lieutenant Saxton made a sketch of his route, 
but it was subsequently mapped by the main party under Lieutenant Donelson. On the 
22d September Lieutenant Saxton started with a party in a flat boat for St. Louis, but took no 
further topographical sketches. 

Governor Stevens found it necessary, from the information received from Lieutenant Saxton, 
to abandon his wagons at Fort Benton and push rapidly forward. 

Lieutenant Donelson was placed in charge of the main party; Lieutenant Grover was directed 
to survey the Missouri from the Great Falls to the mouth of Milk river; and Mr. Doty was left 
at Fort Benton to take meteorological observations. Governor Stevens himself went in advance 
to St. Mary’s by the route over which Lieutenant Saxton had come. 

Lieutenant Donelson moved from Fort Benton on the 16th September. Travelling ina south- 
west direction, he crossed the ridge which separates the waters of the Atlantic from those of 
the Pacific, through the pass Governor Stevens calls Cadotte’s Pass, and proceeded down the 


70 EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 


Black Foot Fork to St. Mary. He then passed from the Bitter Root to the Jocko, and following 
the latter to its mouth entered the valley of Clarke’s Fork, followed it to a point twelve miles 
below Lake Pend d’ Oreille, crossed to the Spokane river, and proceeded about twelve miles 
west, where he joined Captain McClellan’s party. - Thence following an Indian trail, and 
crossing the Saptin or Lewis’s Fork of the Columbia, at the mouth of the Pelouse, the party 
arrived at Walla-Walla on the 6th of November. 

On the 19th September Mr. A. W. Tinkham, leaving Lieutenant Donelson’s party at Fort 
Benton, proceeded up the valley of the Sun river to the forks of that stream, crossed the 
dividing ridge, and made a reconnaissance connecting the valley of the Blackfoot and Jocko 
rivers. 

Mr. Lander also made a reconnaissance of a route from Fort Benton westward, lying a little 
north of that of Lieutenant Donelson, and mei the mountains by what Governor Stevens 
calls Lewis and Clarke's Pass. 

Governor Stevens having concluded his Indian council at St. Mary's, directed Lieutenant 
Mullan to establish there a winter post; Mr. Tinkham to make an examination of the Maria’s 
Pass; and Dr. Suckley to descend the Bitter Root, Clarke's Fork, und Columbia in a canoe. 
He started himself with a small party, accompanied by Mr. Stanley, and proceeded down the 
Bitter Root river to the St. Regis Borgia. At the source of this stream they crossed the Bitter 
Root mountains, passed down the Coeur d'Alene river to the Spokane, and thence to Fort 
Colville, where they met Captain McClellan, and proceeded with him to Fort Walla-W alla. 

About twelve miles below Lake Pend d’ Oreille, Lieutenant Donelson had detached Lieutenant 
Arnold to connect the reconnaissance with Fort Colville. He travelled along Clarke’s Fork 
to the Mission of St. Ignatius, and crossing the river proceeded to Fort Colville; thence he 
ascended the Columbia river to the mouth of Clarke's Fork, determining its latitude by sextant 
observation to be near the 49th parallel. Returning to Fort Colville he followed the Columbia 
down to the Grande Coulée, explored it, and repaired to Fort Walla-Walla. 

Governor Stevens, Captain McClellan, Lieutenant Donelson, and Lieutenant Arnold, went 
from Walla-Walla to Puget Sound by the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers. 

Dr. Suckley performed his voyage safely. He had to make only three portages of any mag- 
nitude: one being on Clarke’s Fork, above Lake Pend d’Oreille; one at the Dalles of the 
Columbia; and the other at the Cascades. 

The party on the western division, under the command of Captain George B. McClellan, 
consisted of Lieutenant J. K. Duncan, 3d artillery, Lieutenant S. Mowry, Lieutenant H. C. 

Hodges, Mr. J. F. Minter, civil engineer, George Gibbs, geologist, and Dr. J. G. Cooper, 
` naturalist. Captain McClellan left Fort Vancouver in July, 1853. His course was in a 
` northerly direction to the Cathlapoot’l; thence in a generally east direction south of Mounts 
St. Helens and Adams; thence northwest, crossing Atahnam, Nachess, and Wenass rivers, 
up the valley of the Upper Yakima to the Yakima Pass, which was examined; thence he 
proceeded to Ketetas; thence north to the Columbia; thence up the right bank of that 
river to Fort Okinakane, on Okinakane river. The party then examined the Okinakane river 
up to the lake of that name. From Lake Okinakane river their route was nearly east to Fort 
Colville; thence nearly south to a branch of the Spokane, where they joined Governor Stevens. 

Lieutenant Sylvester Mowry examined a route leading from Wenass river in a south of east 
direction to the Dalles of the Columbia. 
 Lieutenaut Hodges joined McClellan’s party at Ketetas, having marched from Fort Steila- 


iti tinis loe‏ نس ا 


` EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 11 


coom. His course was easterly to the Stkamish river; thence along that stream to the Nachess 
Pass; thence along Nachess river. 

A ien map of the Cascade range, north of the Columbia, was prepared by Lieutenant Duncan 
on a scale of 1 to 400,000. 

In 1853 Mr. George Gibbs made a partial examination of the country lying between Shoal- 
water bay and Puget Sound. On the 17th of December, with a small party, he proceeded up 
the Willopah river about fifteen miles in a canoe, and then started on foot to explore the route 
connecting Shoalwater bay with the interior. After three days travel (15 miles) the attempt 
was abandoned. 

On the 10th of October, 1853, Mr. Tinkham left the main train on Jocko river to examine 
the Maria's Pass. He travelled northerly down the Jocko river to its mouth, and thence 
followed up the valley of Flat Head river, and along the western shore of the Flat Head lake. 
He crossed the dividing range through Maria's Pass, and thence his route lay in a southeast 
direction, crossing the tributaries of Maria's and Teton rivers to Fort Benton. 

On November 1, Mr. Tinkham left camp opposite Fort Benton, and travelled in a western 
direction along the south side of the Missouri to the ** Gate of the Mountains." Crossing the 
Rocky mountain divide through one of the Hell-Gate Passes, he entered the valley of the 
Little Blackfoot river, followed it down to its junction with the Hell-Gate river; thence down 
this stream to the Bitter Root river; and thence to Lieutenant Mullan's winter — 
at St. Mary's village. 

On the 20th, leaving St. Mary's village, he proceeded up the valley of the St. Mary's river 
to about sixty miles above Hell-Gate, where the Bitter Root river forks to tle southeast and 
southwest. The route pursued was up the western fork through the Bitter Root mountains; 
thence along the valleys of the Kooskoosky and Clearwater rivers to Lewis’ Fork; and thence 
to Walla-Walla, which point was reached on the 30th of December. 

Mr. Tinkham's route through the Bitter Root mountains was nearly the same as that of 
Lieutenant McFeely. 

On the 17th of January Mr. Tinkham, with two Walla-Walla Indians, proceeded up the 
Columbia to the mouth of the Yakima; thence up this stream to its source, in the Cascade 
mountains, passing the summit through the Snoqualme Pass, and thence by the valley of the 
Snoqualme river to Seattle, on Puget sound; arriving there on the 27th of January, 1854. 

On the 22d of September Lieutenant Grover, with a crew of three men, left Fort Benton in 
a flat boat, and proceeded to survey the Missouri river, to ascertain the practicability of steam- 
boat navigation between that point and the mouth of Milk river; on completing this he returned 
to Fort Benton over the route that the main party had travelled. He arrived at the latter 
point on the Tth October. 

Lieutenant Grover, with a dog train, left Fort Benton January 2, 1854, to examine the 
condition of the route in winter from the headwaters of the Missouri to the Dalles of the 
Columbia. He followed nearly the route Lieutenant Donelson had taken, via Fort Owen, 
Clarke's Fork, Fort Walla, and the Columbia river. 

In May, 1854, Mr. James Doty made a survey of the route from Fort Benton, along the 
eastern base of the Rocky mountains, to latitude 49° 30’. His party consisted of three men 
and an Indian boy. He had a compass and odometer, and a sextant and time piece. He 
followed along the course of the Missouri river to the Great Falls. About fifteen miles from 
Great Falls the party struck the Medicine river about eight miles from its mouth, and followed 


13 EXPLORATION FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1851. 


up this stream to the base of the mountains; thence his course was along the east base of the 
mountains to Maria’s river ; thence in a nearly north direction to Chief's Mountain lake. On 
his return the route was nearly south to Maria's river; thence along that stream a short 
distance; thence south to Birch river; thence southeast to the Teton, which stream was 
followed to Fort Benton. 

Mr. Doty made another reconnaissance in July, 1854, from Fort Benton to St. Mary's, 
following the same route as pursued by the main train in 1853, to a point within ten miles of 
the divide of the Rocky mountains. There he turned due west, and crossed the divide. He 
then followed the general direction of the Blackfoot to its junction with Hell-Gate river; 
thence he followed up the Bitter Root to St. Mary's and Cantonment Stevens. On the return 
the party followed the Bitter Root valley to Hell-Gate; thence up that river to the mouth 
of the Little Blackfoot; thence over nearly the same trail as on the journey from Fort Benton 
to Cantonment Stevens. = 

On the "th of September Mr. Doty left Fort Benton for Olympia. The route lay up the 
Teton river to the Great North bend; thence southwest to the trail pursued by the main party 
which led him to Cantonment Stevens, on the Bitter Root river. Leaving the Bitter Root 
valley he proceeded, by way of the St. Regis Borgia river, to the Cœur d' Alene Mission; 
whence he pursued a southwesterly course to Fort Walla-Walla. Leaving Walla-Walla he 
went up the Columbia to the Yakima river; thence up that stream to its source; thence 
through the Yakima Pass to Olympia. 

Lieutenant Mullan being left at Cantonment Stevens, on the Bitter Root river, to v 
observations in the mountains during the winter, made several reconnaissances. He was 
assisted by Mr. Adams as topographer and artist. The maps of the routes were made from 
compass courses and generally estimated distances. 

Lieutenant Mullan's first reconnaissance was made in December to Fort Hall, on the Lewis 
Fork, and back. His route lay up the Bitter Root to its source; thence across the valley of 
the streams forming the Wisdom river; thence up the valley of the southeast branch of 
Jefferson Fork; thence into the valley of the Medicine Lodge ereek; thence across the Camas 
prairie to Snake river, (striking it near Market lake;) and thence to Fort Hall. On the 19th 
of December the party commenced their return to the Bitter Root valley. On reaching the 
Camas prairie, Lieutenant Mullan diverged to the east of the route by which he went to Fort 
Hall, and passing the dividing ridge continued a northerly course across the branch of 
Jefferson Fort. Thence he passed over to the south branch of Hell-Gate river, and pro- 
ceeding by way of its valley returned to his cantonment. 

Lieutenant Mullan again left the Bitter Root valley on the 1st March, 1854, to examine a 
new route to Fort Benton. This route was up the Hell-Gate river to its junction with the 
little Blackfoot; thence up that stream to its source, where he crossed the dividing ridge, and 
proceeded nearly north to the Missouri river and thence to Fort Benton. He went 9 to 
the Bitter Root valley over nearly the same route. 

An odometer line was run over the whole route, and sketches of the principal lini of 
the country were taken. Lieutenant Mullan on this journey travelled with wagons, and the 
pass through which he crossed the mountain divide he pisi» Hell-Gate Pass. It is some 
times spoken of as Mullan’s Pass. ۱ 

Lieutenant Mullan again left the Bitter Root niin on fie 14th April, 1854, to continue the 
explorations of the country between the main ridge of the Rocky mountains and the Bitter 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A.D. 1857. | 13 


Root range, as far as the Kootenay river. The route pursued was that along the Bitter Root 
river; thence to Flathead river, by way of the Jocko river; thence by the west side of Flat- 
head lake; thence up the valley of Maple river to its source; and thence across the divide, 
between it and the Kootenay river, to this latter stream. The return route was down the 
valley of Hot Spring creek to Flathead river; and thence by the Jocko and Bitter Root rivers 
to the place of departure. 

Lieutenant Mullan finally left the Bitter Root valley on the 19th of September, 1854, passed 
up the Looloo Fork and through the Bitter Root mountains; and thence by way of the Koos- 
koosky to Fort Walla-Walla, his route being nearly that of Captains Lewis and Clarke in 
1805-6. 

The reports of each of the reconnaissances made by the subordinates of Governor Stevens’ 
expedition will be found with his printed report; and the various maps of these routes were 
compiled by Mr. Lambert on the map that accompanies it. Governor Stevens also made 
additional examinations in 1855, in connexion with his official duties with the Indians, and the 
results will be published in a supplementary volume. ۹ 


SURVEY BY LIEUTENANT R. ARNOLD, 1854. 

In the summer of 1854 Lieutenant R. Arnold, third artillery, made an odometer survey and 
map of a road which he opened from Puget Sound to Walla-Walla, through the Nachess Pass, 
over nearly the same route reconnoitred by Lieutenant Hodges, of Captain McClellan’s party 
in 1853. His report will be found as an appendix to the annual report of Colonel J. J. Abert, 
‘Topographical Engineers, forming part of Senate Ex. Doc. No. 1, 1st session 34th Congress. 

EXAMINATIONS BY MR. F. W. LANDER, CIVIL ENGINEER, 1854. 

The report of Mr. Lander forms part of House Ex. Doc. No. 129, Ist session 33d Congress, 
and is reprinted in the quarto edition of Pacific Railroad Reports, Vol. IT, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 
78, and House Ex. Doc. No. 91, 2d session 33d Congress. The report is unaccompanied by 
maps or sketches. 

Mr. F. W. Lander returned to the States in 1854 by the emigrant road up the valley of the 
Columbia; thence across the Blue mountains through the Grande Ronde; thence up Snake river 
and across to Bear river; and thence by the usual travelled road through the South Pass and 
down the Platte river to Missouri: 

The journey was undertaken by him at the request of citizens of Oregon and Washington 
Territories, to endeavor to find a railroad route in this direction. Although he examined 
several approaches to the Blue mountains from the west, he found no practicable railroad route, 
as time and means did not permit him to reconnoitre this portion as fully as he intended. It 
was also his design to examine a route from the source of Snake river, over the mountains, to 
the head of Green river, but an accident to himself prevented this. His examinations tended 
to confirm the opinion of the difficult nature of the route west of the South Pass. 


EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC, NEAR THE THIRTY-EIGHTH AND 
THIRTY-NINTH PARALLELS, UNDER CAPTAIN J. W. GUNNISON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. 

The report of this examination was made by Captain E. G. Beckwith, United States artillery, 
and forms part of Volume II of the quarto edition of the Pacific Railroad Report, Senate Ex. 
Doc. No. 18; House Ex. Doc. No. 91, 2d session 33d Congress. The maps were prepared by 
Mr. F. W. Egloffstein, and are in four sheets, on a scale of twelve miles to an inch. 

10 


qA | EXPLORATÍONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A D. 1857. 


The profile of this route is engraved on a horizontal scale of 30 miles to an inch, and a 
vertical scale 39-4 times greater than the horizontal. Numerous illustrations accompany the 
quarto edition. This report was also published in House Doc. No. 129, 1st session 33d Con- 
gress, and was accompanied by a preliminary map on a scale of 50 miles to an inch, and 
profile on a horizontal scale of 15 miles to an inch, the vertical scale being 2,000 feet to an inch. 
A sketch of the portion of the route between the 104th and 110th meridian, on a scale of about 
16 miles to an inch, accompanies the report of the Secretary of War—Senate Ex. Doc. No. 29, 
1st session 29th Congress. 

This expedition was composed of Captain Gunnison, Lieutenant E. G. Beckwith, 3d artillery; 
Mr. R. H. Kern, topographer; Mr. S. Homans, astronomer; Dr. J. Schiel, surgeon and geologist; 
Mr. F. Creutzfeldt, botanist; and Mr. J. A. Snyder, assistant topographer; with the necessary 
teamsters and employés. They were escorted by Captain R. M. Morris and Lieutenant L. S. 
Baker, and about 30 soldiers of the regiment of mounted rifles. "They were provided with 
sextants and artificial horizons, compasses, odometers, mercurial and aneroid barometers, and 
instruments for railroad surveying. Their supplies, &c., were transported in wagons. 

The main train left Westport on the 16th of June, 1853, and travelled over the Santa Fé 
road, while Captain Gunnison, with a small party, travelled up the Kansas river to Fort Riley, 
and, continuing southwest, joined the main party on Walnut creek. The whole expedition now 
proceeded up the Arkansas to the mouth of the Apishpa creek, where they left it and travelled 
southward up this branch. Leaving Apishpa creek, they took a route westward, crossed 
Cuchara ereek, struck Huerfano creek, and ascended it to the Sangre del Cristo Pass in the 
Sierra Blanca. By this Pass they entered the San Luis valley, lying at the head of the Rio 
Grande. Travelling northwest along the western base of the Sierra Blanca, they examined 
Roubedeau’s Pass, the Sandy Hill Pass, and another at the head of Homans’ creek, leading to 
the Arkansas. Leaving the San Luis valley, by way of Sawatch creek, they ascended this to 
one of its sources in Coochetopa Pass. Here, crossing the divide, they descended to Grand 
river, mostly through the valley of Coochetopa creek.. Finding it impossible to travel through 
the cafions of Grand river, they traversed the high and broken mesas south of them to Uncom- 
pahgree creek. This they descended to its mouth, and then following Grand river a short 
distance, crossed over to its northern side. Keeping generally at some distance from its 
banks, they journeyed westward until, after crossing Blue river, they left Grand river in 
about latitude 39°, on finding that its course would lead them too far to the south. Continuing 
their westerly course, they crossed Green rier a short distance below the mouth of White 
river, (the one which comes in from the west.) 

"Their examination westward was uninterrupted as far as the head of the San Rafael, where 
they were forced by the Wasatch mountains considerably to the south. They crossed this 
divide through the Wasatch Pass, and came upon a branch of the Sevier river. "They then 
descended Sevier river to Lake valley, turned south, crossed the Unkuk-oo-ap mountains south 
of the river, and rejoined it just below where it comes out of the gap through this range. 
Here the party was separated; Captain Gunnison, Mr. R. H. Kern, Mr. F. Creutzfeldt, Mr. 
William Potter, and eight men starting to examine Sevier lake on October 25. On the morning 
of the 26th they were surprised by a large body of Indians of the Ute tribe, and Captain 
Gunnison, Mr. Kern, Mr. Creutzfeldt, Mr. Potter, and four others were killed. Most of the 
papers and instruments were recovered. The expedition, the command of which thus devolved 
upon Lieutenant Beckwith, proceeded to Great Salt Lake city, where the winter was passed. 


i 
| 
1 
| 
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i 


€ 
EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A.D. 1851. 15 


' Messrs. Beale and Heap passed over nearly this same route in advance of Captain Gunnison’ s 
party on their way to California. The journey of these enterprising travellers was a very 
trying one; and they lost nearly everything they had in attempting to cross Grand river on a 
raft during a high stage of water. They published a brief and interesting narrative of their 
journey, accompanied by a map. 

Colonel J. C. Frémont* also passed over nisl this same route «sides the winter of 1853-54, 
He crossed the Sierra Blanca through the Sandy Hill Pass; thence his route was not materially 
different from Captain Gunnison's to the point where the latter left Grand river. Colonel 
Frémont continued further south, and crossed the Sawatch mountains south of Gunnison's route. 
He had with him, as far as the Mormon settlement, Mr. F. W. Egloffstein, as topographer. 


SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD TO THE PACIFIC NEAR THE 41sr PARALLEL, BY LIEUTENANT E. G. BECK WITH, 
1854. 


The report of this route, by Lieutenant Beckwith, forms part of Volume II of the quarto edition 
of the Pacific Railroad Reports. The topographical maps are in four sheets, on a scale of twelve 
miles to an inch. The profiles are drawn on a horizontal scale of 16 miles to an inch, the 
vertical scale being 28755 times larger. This report of Captain Beckwith was also published 
in House Document No. 129, 1st session 33d Congress, and was accompanied by a preliminary 
map on a scale of 50 miles to an inch. 

On the 3d of April Lieut. E. G. Beckwith, aided by Mr. F. W. Egloffstein and the surviving 
assistants of Captain Gunnison, started to examine the practicability of the Wasatch mountains 
east of Great Salt lake. Leaving Salt Lake city, they travelled up the eastern shore of the 
lake, to the cafion of Weber's river, passed up this stream to White Clay creek, crossed the 
divide between it and Bear river, travelled along the heads of Muddy creek and Black’s Fork, 
to Henry's Fork of Green river, and then followed down this stream nearly to its mouth. 

Retracing their steps to the divide between Muddy and Bear rivers, they attempted to dis- 
cover a route to the Kamas prairie and Timpanogos river, more direct than the one by White 
Clay creek and Weber's river. This they were unable to do, being deterred as much by snow 
as by the rugged aspect of the country. Descending White Clay creek to Weber's river, they 
followed the latter stream to where it turns east into the Uintah mountains; thence crossing the 

dividing ridge they reached — river, examined its — to m "id and thence 
returned to Salt Lake city. 

On the 5th of May the expedition, under Lieut. Beckwith, left Salt AN city under instruc- 
tions to explore a route ‘‘south of Great Salt lake in the direction of the ‘Sink’ of Humboldt s 
or Mary's river, thence towards Mud lake, and across to the tributaries of Feather river, and 
thence by the most practicable route to the valley of the Sacramento." Leaving the city, they 
crossed the Jordan river, passed around the northern end of the Oquirrh mountains, entered 
the Tuilla valley, and doubling the northern end of an intervening range of mountains, entered 
Spring or Lone Rock valley. 

Proceeding southwesterly they passed the Cedar and the Pi-ja-ro-ja-bi mountains. Passing 
this range they continued the exploration westward to a pass in the Wa-ro-ja mountains, by 
which they entered Franklin valley. They then travelled southward down this valley, along 
the eastern face of the Humboldt mountains, for twenty or thirty miles, where they turned west- 
ward, crossed the mountains through the Hastings Road Pass, and struck the head of the south 


` &See letter to the editors of the National Intelligencer, which forms House Miscellaneous Document No. 8, 2d session 
33d Congress. 


76 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 


fork of Humboldt’s river. The exploration was continued westward by a devious route through 
the mountains south of the Humboldt river to its valley at Lassen’s Meadows. Leaving the 
river, they then explored westward to the southern portion of the valley of Mud lakes. Pro- 
ceeding thence northwest, they crossed the eastern chain of the Sierra Nevada by the Madelin 
Pass, and followed Pit river to the mouth of Fall river. Here, leaving Pit river, Lieut. Beck- 
with travelled by the Old Emigrant road, southward along the elevated plateau between the 
two chains of the Sierra Nevada, to the Noble Pass road, which he followed through the 
eastern chain of the Sierra, near Susan's river, to Honey lake. Having connected his 
recent reconnaissance with the former line near the point where Smoky creek enters Honey 
Lake valley, Lieut. Beckwith retraced his steps by the Noble's Pass road, through the eastern 
chain of the Sierra Nevada to the summit plateau. Thence he followed the continuation of the 
same road through Noble's Pass, in the western chain of the Sierra, to Fort Reading, in the 
Sacramento valley. Much confusion in ideas, as well as in nomenclature, has arisen from the 
name ''Noble's Pass" being applied indiscriminately to two passes, (as well as to the road be- 
tween them,) one through the eastern, and the other through the western chain of the Sierra 
Nevada 

Leaving Fort Reading on July 15, Lieut. Beckwith ascended the Sacramento to Pit river, 
which he followed to within a few miles of the mouth of Fall river, thus nearly connecting with 
his former reconnaissance. Turning southward, he then followed Canoe creek to Noble's West- 
ern Pass, and thence by the road to Fort Reading, at which point the exploration terminated. 


AN EXAMINATION TO ASCERTAIN THE MOST PRACTICABLE LOCATION FOR A WAGON ROAD ALONG 
THE CARSON VALLEY ROUTE, PASSING NEAR LAKE BIGLER, (CALLED BY FRÉMONT, IN HIS MAP 
OF HIS SECOND EXPEDITION, ‘‘MOUNTAIN LAKE," AND ON HIS MAP OF THE THIRD EXPEDITION 
LAKE BONAPLAND.) 


This examination throws much light on the subject of the practicability of the route for a 
railroad. 

The altitudes were determined by an aneroid barometer. The determination of the eastern 
boundary of California was another object in the examination, and for this purpose the party 
used an astronomical transit and sextant with chronometers.. The report of these operations, 
by George H. Goddard, accompanies the annual report of the surveyor general of the State of 
California. Assembly document No. 5, session of 1856. 


SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE TO THE PACIFIC, NEAR THE THIRTY-FIFTH PARALLEL, BY CAPTAIN A. 
W. WHIPPLE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. 


The final report of Captain Whipple forms Volumes III and IV of the quarto edition of the 
Pacific Railroad Reports, Senate Ex. Doc. No. 18; House Ex. Doc. No. 91, 2d sess. 33d Cong. 
It is accompanied by a topographical | map in two sheets, drawn on a scale of 15 miles to 
an inch, and a sheet of profiles on a horizontal scale of 15 miles to an inch, and a vertical 50 
times the horizontal. There are, besides, geological maps and numerous other illustrations. 
His preliminary report forms part of House Doc. No. 129, 1st sess. 33d Cong. This edition 
is accompanied by a map in two sheets, and on scale of 1 to 900,000, and a profile of the route 
on a horizontal scale of 1 inch to 79,500 feet, and a vertical scale of 1 inch to 3,000 feet. 

Captain Whipple was assisted by Lieutenant J. C. Ives, Topographical Engineers; Dr J. M. 
Bigelow, surgeon and botanist; Jules Marcou, geologist and mining engineer; Dr. C. B. R. Ken- 
nerley, physician and naturalist; A. H. Campbell, principal assistant ‘railroad engineer; H. B. 


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EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To a. D. 1857. 17 


Mollhausen, topographer and artist; Hugh Campbell, assistant astromomer; William White, jr., 
assistant meteorological observer; Mr. George G. Garner, assistant astronomer; Mr. N. H 
Hutton, assistant engineer; John P. Sherburne, assistant meteorological observer; and Mr. T. 
H. Parke, assistant astronomer and computer. They were provided with a portable transit, sex- 
tants, and chronometers, for astronomical observations, and with the other instruments needful 
for reconnaissances. They were escorted by a company of the 7th infantry, under Captain J. 
M. Jones, and began the survey with a train of wagons. Lieutenant Ives proceeded, with an 
astronomical transit and other instruments, from Washington, D. C., to Albuquerque, by way 
of San Antonio and El Paso, where he joined the party. 

Captain Whipple (then a first lieutenant) left Fort Smith July 13, 1853, and moved west, 
along the northern base of the San’ Bois mountains, to the south fork of the Canadian river. 


. Crossing this, the party followed its main branch, called Coal creek, to its head; thence crossing 


Delaware Ridge, they struck the head of Boggy river. Recrossing the Delaware Ridge, they 
passed along the heads of Walnut and Deer creeks, until, keeping at some distance south of 
the Canadian, and gradually diverging from it, they crossed a low divide and struck the waters 
of the False Washita river, at Gypsum creek. Thence they travelled northwest,up the valley 
for about 60 miles, when they passed over again to the Canadian. They then travelled generally 
along the valley of the Canadian river, by the Emigrant road, to the Pecos, at Anton Chico. 
Here the party separated. Lieutenant Whipple, with a small number, followed the Pecos nearly 
to its head, crossed the Galisteo Pass on the west, and following down the creek of the same name, 
struck the Rio Grande del Norte at the pueblo of San Domingo. Thence he travelled down 
the river to Albuquerque. The main party left Anton Chico, followed up the Cañon Blanco to 
Las Lagunas, thence southwesterly through the San Pedro Pass, at the southern end of the 
Zandia mountain, and thence down the San Antonio creek to Albuquerque. Lieutenant Whipple 
remained encamped at this point a month; leaving there about the middle of November, 1853. 

While at Albuquerque a reconnaissance was made of the river crossing at Isleta, about 10 
miles below. 

The escort was increased by twenty-five men, under Lieutenant J. C. Tidball, 2d artillery, 
and a considerable number of pack animals were now added. 

"From Albuquerque the expedition travelled southwest to the crossing tof tite iib Dass 
thence up the San José or Santa Rita valley to Covero. Soon after leaving Covero, a small 
party under Mr. Campbell explored a route up the north fork of the Santa Rita to its head, 
thence through Campbell’s Pass, in the Sierra Madre, to Fort Defiance and back to the main party 
at Zufii. The main party kept up the South Fork to its head, at the Aqua Fria, thence crossing 
the Sierra Madre, by a rugged pass, descended the slopes of that range to the Pueblo of Zuiii.* 

From this point the exploration was continued westward to the Rio Puerco, (of the west,) 
crossing it near Navajo Spring, and thence southwest to the Colorado Chiquito, near the 
junction of the Puerco with the former stream. After following the valley of the Colorado 
Chiquito for about 40 miles, they struck west towards the San Francisco mountain, passing 
south of it. Continuing the westward course, which carried them north of Mount Bill Wil- 
liams’ and across the sources of some northern branches of the Gila river, they reached the 
sources of Bill Williams’ Fork, and travelled down the valley of this stream to its junction with 
the Colorado of the Gulf of California. They now travelled up the Colorado, through the 


? An interesting article on the region about Fort Defiance, by Dr. J. Letterman, U. S. A., is published in the Annual 
Report for 1855, of Professor Henry, Secretary to the Smithsonian Institution 


78 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To a. D. 1857. 


Mohave valley, and crossed the river in about latitude 34° 50’ north. Leaving the Colorado, 
they took a northwesterly course to Soda lake. They then passed up the valley of the Mojave 


river, and through the Cajon Pass, to the rancho of Coco Mungo, and thence along the foot 
slopes of the Coast range to Los Angelos, where the survey terminated about the 25th of 
March, 1854. 


SURVEY FOR A PACIFIC RAILROAD THROUGH THE PASSES OF THE SIERRA NEVADA AND COAST RANGE, 
LIEUTENANT R. 8. WILLIAMSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1854. 


The final report of these surveys and reconnaissances forms Volume V of the quarto edition 
of the Pacific Railroad Reports. It is accompanied by a general map on a scale of 1 to 600,000; 
one of certain passes on a scale of 1 to 240,000, and several detailed maps. There are, too, 
sheets of profiles drawn on a horizontal scale of 1 to 120,000, and a vertical scale five times 
greater. The report is also accompanied by geological maps and profiles. "The report and 
general map were also in House Document No. 129, 1st session 33d Congress. 

Lieutenant Williamson was assisted by Lieutenant J. G. Parke, Topographical Engineers; 
Lieutenant G. B. Anderson, 2d dragoons; Dr. A. L. Heerman, physician and naturalist; Mr. 
W. P. Blake, geologist; Mr. Isaac W. Smith, civil engineer; Mr. Charles Preuss, topographer; 
and Mr. Charles Koppel, artist. His escort was commanded by Lieutenant G. Stoneman, lst 
dragoons. Continuous topographical sketches of the routes traversed were taken, and the 
work checked by astronomical observations with the sextant. "Two of the passes were surveyed 
with chain and spirit level. On the map Lieutenant Williamson embodied some of the explo- 
rations of Captain Warner which had not before been published. 3 

The expedition left Benicia on the 10th of July, 1853, and crossed the straits io the town 

of Martinez. Thence, travelling through Livermore's Pass, and turning southeast, the party 

crossed the San Joaquin river at Grayson, and proceeded to Fort Miller. From this place they 
proceeded, via Woodville, to the O-co-ya or Pose creek, seven miles north of Kern river, 
where a depot camp was established for an examination of the passes by small parties. 
Lieutenant Williamson then surveyed the passes at the head of Kern river—one called Chay-o- 
poo-ya-pah or Walker's Pass; the other the Hum-pah-ya-mup Pass. Leaving the latter, he 
proceeded south on the west side of the Sierra Nevada to the Tah-ee-chay-pah Pass, which 
was surveyed, as was also one a little to the south of it, (the one that Captain Frémont 
traversed in 1844, and which he calls ۰۲ Walker's.") Lieutenant Williamson next surveyed 
the Tejon Pass and the Cañada de las Uvas. In the latter of these passes an extensive and 
valuable comparison was made of leveling by the barometer and spirit level, the results of 
which are ably discussed by Lieutenant Abbot, Topographical Engineers, in Volume VI of the 
Pacific Railroad Reports. — 

While Lieutenant Williamson. was E Fere examinations and surveys, | 
Parke was sent with a party to Los Angeles, examining in his route the San Fernando Pass, 
near the Mission of that name. From Los Angeles he proceeded up the San Gabriel and Santa 
Anna valleys, and examined the passes between the San Bernardino and San Gorgonio moun- 
tains, called the San Gorgonio Pass. Thence Lieutenant Parke retraced his steps and joined 
the main party in the Cafiada de las Uvas. 

Lieutenant Williamson, on the 5th of October, passed throogh the. Cafiada de E Uvas, and 
travelling south ward along the base of the mountains, examined the San Francisquito and New 
Passes. On the 19th of October he made a e camp on the Mohave river. From this camp 


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EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. p. 1857. 19 


Lieutenant Parke was detached to follow up the Mohave and try to discover a good pass at its 
source. Mr. Smith, civil engineer, was sent to make an accurate survey of the New Pass, 
now known as Williamson's Pass. Lieutenant Williamson examined the Mojave river to the 
cafion where the road leaves the stream, and then returned to the depot camp. After the 
detached parties were again united, Lieutenant Parke was directed to proceed with the wagon 
train through the Cajon and San Gorgonio Passes to Warner's Pass, and then examine the 
latter. This he did, and then proceeded to San Diego. 

Lieutenant Williamson descended the Mojave to Soda lake, and thence followed northward 
to a chain of similar lakes. Having fully determined that there was no Mojave valley reaching 
to the Colorado, he repaired to Warner's ranche, by the usually travelled road, through the 
Cajon, and thence by the way of the towns of San Bernadino and Temecula, to Warner's Pass. 
From this point he proceeded to Fort Yuma, examining the Colorado desert and the Colorado 
river crossing, and then repaired to San Diego, where the expedition terminated. 


RECONNAISSANCE FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE BETWEEN PIMAS VILLAGE AND EL PASO, BY LIEUTENANT J. 
G. PARKE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEER, IN 1854. 


The report of this reconnaissance forms part of Volume II, quarto edition of the Pacific Rail- 
road Reports. This report is printed in House Ex. Doc. No. 129, 1st session 33d Congress, and 
is there accompanied by a map on a scale of five miles to an inch, and profile on the same hori- 
zontal scale, the vertical being one thousand feet to an inch. 

Lieutenant Parke, assisted by Mr. H. Custer, topographer, and Dr. A. L. Heerman, physician 
and naturalist, and provided with barometers, odometers, and compass, on the 24th of January, 
1854, left San Diego with a party of twenty-three men, exclusive of an escort, under Lieutenant 
Stoneman, of twenty-eight dragoons. They followed the emigrant road, via Warner's ranche 
and Pass, and across the Colorado desert, to Fort Yuma; thence they travelled up the left bank 
of the Gila river to the Pimas and Maricopas villages. Leaving this point, on the 16th of 
February, they turned southeast to the then Mexican towns of Tucson and San Xavier. 
Continuing southeastward they passed through the Cienega de las Pimas to the Rio San Pedro, 
and travelled up that stream thirty or forty miles; thence striking over the hills, on the right 
bank, to the Playa de las Pimas, and crossing it at its southern extremity, they entered the 
Chiricahui mountains, at the Puerto del Dado, south of Dos Cabezas Peaks; thence they 
travelled east, crossing the mountains. on the eastern side of the Valle de Sauz, near the Gavilan 
Peak. Turning now to the northeast, they crossed the next mountain range near the Pyramid 
Peak, and travelled east to the Ojo de Inez, near which they struck Cooke's wagon road, and 
followed it to Fort Fillmore. Lieutenant Parke returned from Fort Fillmore with a small party 
and examined a route direct between that place and Cooke's Spring. From Fort Fillmore the 
party proceeded to El Paso, where the reconnaissance ended. 


RECONNAISSANCE FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM EL PASO TO PRESTON, BY BREVET CAPTAIN JOHN POPE, 
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1854. 


"The report of this reconnaissance will be found in Volume II of the quarto edition of the 
Pacific Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by a map on a scale of fifteen miles to an inch, 
and a profile on the same horizontal scale, the vertical being fifty times greater. The report, 
with a map and profile, on a scale of ten miles to an inch, also forms part of House Doc. No. 129, 
lst session 33d Congress. 


80 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D, 1857. 


Captain J. Pope was assisted by Lieutenant Kenner Garrard, first dragoons; Dr. J. Mitchell, 
surgeon and naturalist; Mr. C. L. Taplin, and J. H. Byrne, with an escort of twenty-five men 
under Lieutenant L. H. Marshall, third infantry. The party, including teamsters, &c., num- 
bered seventy-five men. They were provided with sextant, chronometer, odometer, and 
compasses. The grades were determined by measuring the vertical angle with a theodolite. 
The expedition left Doña’ Ana February 12, 1854. Passing through the Organ mountains, 
they struck southwest to the pass at Cerro Alto, in the Hueco mountains. From this point 
Lieutenant Garrard was sent to El Paso to connect the two points by survey. From Cerro 
Alto the expedition moved eastward to the Guadalupe Pass, passing by the way of the Cornudos 
de los Alamos. Lieutenant Garrard explored the Guadalupe range some distance to the south, 
and joined the main party at the head of Delaware creek. On reaching the Pecos, Lieutenant 
Marshall explored it up to the mouth of the Sacramento river, and Mr. Taplin was sent across 
the Llano Estacado to the Sulphur Springs. The main party then moved down the Pecos to 
the emigrant crossing; thence east over the usual road to the Big Springs of the Colorado; and 
thence northwest to the Sulphur Springs. Lieutenant Garrard was sent back from this point 
to the Pecos, at the mouth of Delaware creek, to survey the direct route between the two 
places. From the Sulphur Springs the whole party travelled a very direct course to Fort 
Belknap; thence northeast to the west fork of the Trinity; and thence eastward to Preston, 
where their examinations terminated. | 

Captain Pope made additional explorations in the vicinity of the Guadalupe mountains 
during the years 1855— 56— 57, while engaged in the experiment for obtaining water by artesian 
wells, but his final report has not yet been made. 


EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM BENICIA, CALIFORNIA, TO FORT FILLMORE, 
NEW MEXICO, BY LIEUTENANT J. G. PARKE, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1854-'55. 

The report of these examinations form part of Volume VII of the quarto edition of the Pacific 
Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by two topographical maps, on a scale of twelve miles to 
an inch, and profiles of his routes on the same horizontal scale, and a vertical scale fifty times 
larger. On the same sheet is a profile of the route from Fulton to San Diego, on a horizontal 
scale of thirty-six miles to an inch, and a vertical scale fifty times greater. There are also 
geological maps and profiles. : 

Lieutenant Parke was assisted by Mr. Albert H. Campbell, civil engineer; Doctor Thomas 
Antisell, geologist; and Messrs. Custer and N. H. Hutton, topographers. They were provided 
with sextants and chronometers, barometers, compasses, and odometers. On the 20th 
November, 1854, they left Benicia with a party of about thirty persons, crossed the Straits of 
Carquinez to Martinez, and proceeded up the Arroyo de las Neuces to the head of the San 
Ramon valley. Turning south they crossed the Coast range near the San José Mission, from 
which they travelled around the end of San Francisco bay to the Puebla de San José. They 
then turned up the San José valley, crossed over the Gavilan range at the source of Pajaro 
river, and examined the passes in this vicinity. 

The route then lay up the broad valley of the Salinas (or Monterey) river, until reaching a 
point about twenty miles above the Soledad Mission, where the wagon train turned southwest 
over the mountains to the head of San Antonio Pass. A thorough examination was then made 
of all the mountain region between Point Conception and Fort Tejon in the Cafiada de las 
Uvas; upon the termination of which the expedition proceeded to Los Angelos. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A, D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 81 


Lieutenant Parke's instructions requiring him to examine the sink of the Mojave and Soda 
lakes, he proceeded to a favorable point near the Cajon Pass, where he formed a depot camp, 
whence, with pack mules, he made the examinations required, and then proceeded with all his 
party to San Diego, reaching it in April, 1854. 

About the 26th of May they started for the Pimas villages, upon reaching which the survey 
for a Pacific railroad was recommenced. One party, under Mr. Campbell, (with the wagons, ) 
proceeded to Tucson over the usual Emigrant road, while Lieutenant Parke, with the pack 
mules, continued up the Gila to the mouth of the San Pedro river, up which he travelled until 
he crossed his route of the preceding year. Here the parties were reunited, and explorations 
made of the various passes eastward through the mountains bordering the San Pedro and 
separating it from the Playa de las Pimas. The command then proceeded east to the Playa de 
las Pimas, when they again divided; the main train proceeding through the Chiricahui 
mountains by the Puerto del Dado, whilst Lieutenant Parke, with a small party and two 
wagons, made a reconnaissance around the northern end of those mountains, discovering an 
easy and practicable railroad route. The parties united in the Valle de Sauz. They then 
crossed the Peloncillo range near a peak of that name, travelled across the Valle de las Playas, 
and passed around the northern end of Pyramid range. About forty miles east of El Peloncillo 
they struck the wagon road near the Ojo de Inez, which the train now followed to Fort 
Fillmore. From Ojo de Inez examinations were made south of the wagon road along a proposed 
route for the railway, crossing the Mimbres twenty miles south of the road, and passing the 
mountains by the Florida Pass, twenty miles south of the Picacho de los Mimbres. At Fort 
Fillmore the field operations terminated. 


EXPLORATION AND SURVEY FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE SACRAMENTO RIVER TO THE COLUMBIA 
RIVER, BY LIEUTENANT R. 8. WILLIAMSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. 

The report of this expedition, owing to the illness of Lieutenant Williamson, was written by 
Second Lieutenant H. L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers. It forms Volume VI of the quarto 
edition of the Pacific Railroad Reports, and is accompanied by a topographical map, in two 
sheets, on a scale of 12 miles to an inch, and two sheets of profiles, on the same horizontal 
scale, but with the vertical scale 50 times greater. 

The party consisted of Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, Topographical Engineers, assisted by 
Lieutenant H. L. Abbot, Topographical Engineers, with Dr. J. S. Newberry, as as geologist; Dr. 
E. Sterling, as physician and naturalist; Mr. H. C. Fillebrown, as assistant engineer; Mr. C. D. 
Anderson as computer; and Mr. John Young, as draughtsman. A light cart was taken for the 
instruments, but everything else was transported by pack mules. The party was supplied 
with sextants and chronometers, odometers, compasses, and barometers. 

The expedition left Benicia, California, on July 10, 1855, and proceeded up the Sacramento 
Valley to Fort Reading, crossing the river at Frémont. At the fort it was joined by the escort, 
consisting of Lieutenant H. G. Gibson, 3d artillery; Lieutenant G. Crook, 4th infantry; 
Lieutenant J. B. Hood, 2d cavalry, and one hundred soldiers. 

From Fort Reading the route led westward over the western chain of the Sierra Nevada, 
which was crossed by Noble’s Pass. The valley of Canoe creek was then followed to Pit river. 
Here Lieutenant Hood was overtaken and relieved by Lieutenant P. H. Sheridan, 4th infantry. 
The party then proceeded up Pit river to the head of Round valley, struck across to Wright 

11 


82 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 


lake, and thence to Lost river, near the Natural Bridge. From this place the main party, in 
charge of Lieutenant Abbot, proceeded to Upper Klamath lake by the valley of Lost river, 
while Lieutenant Williamson, with a detached party, followed round the western shore of 
Lower Klamath lake. 

A junction having been effected, the whole party followed Klamath river to Klamath marsh, 
and thence struck across to Des Chutes river. Lieutenant Williamson, with a detached party, 
then explored among the mountains, while Lieutenant Abbot, with the main party, followed 
down the valley. A junction was effected near the Three Sisters, where a depot camp was 
made. Here the main party remained, while Lieutenant Williamson, with a few men, continued 
the exploration of the Cascade range in the vicinity; and Lieutenant Abbot proceeded, with 
another small party, down the valley to Fort Dalles. Finding that the cations, in which the 
tributaries of the Des Chutes river flowed, were so enormous as to render a railroad utterly 
impracticable, he returned to the depot camp, where a final separation took place. 

Lieutenant Williamson, after sending the greater part of the escort to Fort Lane, surveyed a 
pass through the Cascade range near Diamond Peak, and proceeded down the Willamette valley 
to the Columbia river. He then sailed to San Francisco, to prepare for further explorations in 
the Sierra Nevada. Lieutenant Abbot again turned towards the north, and, after exploring 
the vicinity of the Fort Hills, crossed the Cascade range near Mt. Hood by an hitherto unknown 
pass, and then followed down the Willamette valley to the Columbia. Being joined here by 
the party left by Lieutenant Williamson, he proceeded, in aceordance with his instructions, to 
examine the route to Fort Reading lying west of the Cascade range. He followed up the Willam- 
ette valley to the Calapooya mountains, crossed them by an excellent railroad pass, traversed 
the Umpqua valley, and reached Rogue River valley, by the Umpqua cañon, through the 
Umpqua mountains. After crossing Rogue River valley, he passed over the Siskiyou mountains, 
by the wagon route, near the head of Stewart creek, and then travelled through Shasta valley 
to Yreka. The route then led over Little Scott's mountains to Scott's valley, up which he 
passed to its head. He then crossed Scott's mountain to Trinity river, and, after following 
the stream about 25 miles, left it to pass over the Trinity mountains. "The headwaters of Clear 
creek were then struck, and the stream followed nearly to Shasta; thence the route lay through 
the Sacramento valley, for 17 miles, to Fort Reading, where the field work terminated. 

In making the map of this exploration, Lieutenant Abbot embodied various unpublished 
military reconnaissances made in Oregon and northern California, which he duly acknowledges. 
These were: that by Major Alvord, in 1853, from Myrtle creek, in Umpqua valley, to Rogue 
River valley; that by Mr. G. Gibbs, in 1852, from Humboldt bay to the head of Scott's river; 
that of Lieutenant Chandler, in 1856, near the mouth of Rogue river; that of Lieutenant Kautz, 


in 1854, near Coos bay; those of Lieutenant Williamson from Yreka, east of Shasta Butte, to ۱ 


Fort Reading; ; from Yreka to lower Klamath lake; and from Port Orford to E rur and Rogue 
rivers, made e» on military duty in the department in 1851-52. 
UNITED STATES AND MEXICAN BOUNDARY SURVEYS. 

These surveys began in 1849, and continued, with varieus interruptions, till 1856. During 
the establishment of the boundary line agreed upon by the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, four 
different appointments were made of United States commissioner, four of astronomer, and 
two of surveyor. Delays were caused by these changes, by a want of means to properly carry 
on the work, and by differences of opinion as to the proper initial point on the Rio Grande. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A. p. 1857. 83 


The following named reports can be consulted in relation to it: 

Ist. The reports of the Secretary of the Interior, one dated February 27, 1850, printed 
Senate Ex. Doc. No. 34, 1st session 31st Congress; and another dated July, 1852, which is 
printed Senate Ex. Doc. No. 119, 1st session 32d Congress. | 

These contain various letters from different individuals and sketch maps in reference to the 
initial points of the boundary line on the Pacific shore, at the juncture of the Gila and Colorado 
rivers, and on the Rio Grande. 

2d. Extract from a journal of an expedition from San Diego, California, to the Rio Colorado, 
from September 11 to December 11, 1849, by A. W. Whipple, lieutenant United States 
Topographical Engineers; printed Senate Ex. Doc. No. 19, 2d session 31st Congress. 

3d. Report of Lieutenant Colonel J. D. Graham, Topographical Engineers, Senate Ex. Doc. 
No. 121, 1st session 32d Congress. 

This is a narrative by Colonel Graham of his connexion as astronomer with the establishment 
of this line, and is accompanied by numerous letters from different persons. One of which is 
Lieutenant Whipple's report to Colonel Graham on the survey of the Gila. This report of 
Colonel Graham is also accompanied by a “ barometric profile of the route from San Antonio via 
Castorville, Fort Inge, Howard's Spring, Ojo Escondido, Eagle Spring, El Paso del Norte, and 
Doña Ana, to the Copper mines of Santa Rita, in New Mexico, in 1851; from observations by 
and under the direction of Brevet Lieutenant Colonel J. D. Graham, United States Topo- 
graphical Engineers, assisted by Lieutenant W. F. Smith, Topographical Engineers, and Mr. J. 
Lawson, and computed by Lieutenant G. Thom, Topographical Engineers." The profile is on 
a horizontal scale of twenty mile to an inch, the vertical scale being 105,5. times greater. 

Colonel Graham acknowledges, in terms of commendation, the aid received by him from 
Lieutenant Whipple, Topographical Engineers, Lieutenants Tillinghast and Burnside, United 
States army. 

4th. ‘‘Personal Narrative of Explorations and Incidents in Texas, New jm California, 
Sonora, and Chihuahua, connected with the United States and Mexican Boundary Commission, 
during the years 1850-51-52, and '53. By John Russell Bartlett, United States Commissioner 
during that period; in two volumes, with maps and illustrations. Published by D. Appleton & 
Co., Nos. 346 and 348 Broadway, New York, and No. 16 Little Britain, London. —1854." 

In page 11 of the preface to this work, Mr. Bartlett says: ‘‘The maps of the survey, as well 
as the astronomical, magnetic, and meteorological observations, with all that strictly appertains 
to the running and marking the boundary line, were, by the instructions of the Secretary of the 
Interior, placed in charge of the surveyor, Brevet Major W. H. Emory, who alone is held 
responsible for the faithful performance of these duties. , From the high character of that 
officer as an engineer, the public may expect, in proper season, a satisfactory account of his 
labors in these departments. Sometime must elapse before the maps to illustrate the whole 
boundary from one ocean to the other can be completed; I have therefore been compelled to 
construct, meanwhile, the map prefixed to this work from my own itinerary and from the most 
authentic information that could be obtained.’ 

This work contains, among other things of interest, an account of the country south of the 
boundary, on the route from El Paso via the Guadalupe Pass to Guaymas; and also of a journey 
through Chihuahua, Coahuila, and New Leon, to the Rio Grande. 

5th. ‘‘Report on the United States and Mexican Boundary Survey, made under the direction 
of the Secretary of the Interior, by William H. Emory, major first cavalry and United States 
Commissioner. emen: Cornelius Wendell, printer. 


84 ۱ EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 


The report of Major Emory was published in 1858, and forms Senate Ex. Doc. No. 108, 1st 
session 34th Congress, and, with the appendices, makes two volumes. There are four topo- 
graphical maps on a scale of 1 to 600,000, ‘‘showing the boundary line and the country 
contiguous, as far as information has been obtained from actual survey or reconnaissance." 
There is also a topographical map on a scale of 1 to 6,000,000, entitled a ** Map of the United 
States and their Territories between the Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean and part of 
Mexico, compiled from surveys made under the order of W. H. Emory, major 1st cavalry, 
United States commissioner, and from the maps of the Pacific railroad, General Land Office, 
and the Coast Survey, projected and drawn under the supervision of Lieutenant N. Michler, 
Topographical Engineers, by Thomas Jekyll, C. E., 1851— 58." This map (of all the country 
north of the surveys of the Mexican boundary) is a reduction from the map which I have 
compiled for the Pacific railroad office. 

During the time I was engaged on this compilation, the Pacific Railroad office was supplied 
with information from the office of Mexican Boundary Survey, and in return copies of our com- 
pilation were furnished that office in advance of its publication. Major Emory's report is also 
accompanied by a geological map of the same country, and on the same scale as that just 
mentioned, prepared by James Hall, assisted by J. P. Leslie, esq. This map is without date. 

There is also a barometrical and geological profile along the Rio Grande from its mouth to 
El Paso, and thence across the country to the Pacific. The report contains numerous illustra- 
tions of scenery, and geological, botanical, and zoological plates. 

Assistance is acknowledged to have been received in the field from Lieutenant A. W. 
Whipple, Topographical Engineers, Brevet Captain E. L. F. Hardcastle, Topographical 
Engineers, Mr. G. C. Gardner, Dr. C. Parry, Messrs. E. Ingraham, C. Radziminski, Arthur 
Schott, J. H. Clark, S. W. Jones, E. A. Phillips, J. H. Houston, J. E. Weiss, H. Campbell, 
F. Wheaton, W. White, and G. G. Garner. 

The line, as finally determined and established under the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, 
extended up the Rio Grande from its mouth to latitude 31° 54' 40” north; thence west along 
that parallel to the meridian of 109° 37’ west; thence due north to the Rio San Domingo; 
thence down that stream to the Gila; thence down the Gila to its mouth; thence in a straight 
line to the point on the Pacific, in latitude 32? 32' north. 

Numerous reconnaissances were made by different parties in going to and from various points 
on the line; and the Rio Grande was surveyed as far up as the parallel of 329 22’ north, and a 
portion of that parallel run by Lieutenant Whipple as directed by Mr. Bartlett, commissioner 
at the time. 

The treaty of 1853, by which the tract of territory known as the Gadsden purchase was 
acquired from Mexico, changed the boundary line so as to make it commence on the Rio 
Grande at latitude 31° 47’ north; thence due west 100 miles; thence south to latitude 
31? 30' north; thence due west to the 111th meridian; thence in a straight line to a point on 
the Colorado twenty miles below its junction with the Gila; thence up the Colorado to m 
former line. 

To establish this boundary Major Emory, (then brevet major corps Topographical Engineers, ) 
was appointed commissioner and astronomer on the part of the United States; and the work 
was accomplished during the years 1855-56. Major Emory was assisted in this work by 
Lieutenant N. Michler, Topographical Engineers, Lieutenant C. N. Turnbull, Topographical 
Engineers, Messrs. C. Radziminski, M. T. W. Chandler, J. H. Clark, H. Campbell, W. Emory, 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A D. 1857. | 85 


M. Von Hippel, C. Weiss, F. Wheaton, A. Schott, J. Houston, D. Hinkle, B. Burns, E. ‘A. 
Phillips, and J. O’ Donoghue. Captain G. Thom, Topographical Engineers, had charge of the 
office in computing the work and projecting the maps of both boundary surveys. 


SURVEY OF ROAD FROM BIG SIOUX TO MENDOTA, BY BREVET CAPTAIN J. L. RENO, UNITED STATES ORD- 
NANCE, IN 1853. 


Captain Reno was assisted in this survey, which was made with chain and compass, by Mr. 
James Tilton (now surveyor general of Washington Territory) and Mr. A. Cross. 

The map now in the Topographical Bureau has never been published. The report forms 
printed House Ex, Doc. No. 97, 1st session 33d Congress. 

EXPLORATIONS OF THE SOURCES OF THE BRAZOS AND BIG WITCHITA RIVERS, BY CAPTAIN R. B. MARCY, 
FIFTH INFANTRY, IN 1854. 

The report of this forms Senate Executive Document, No. 60, Ist session 34th Congress. 
It is accompanied by a map of the region explored on a scale of eight miles to an inch. Cap- 
tain Marcy was accompanied by Major Neighbors, Indian agent, and Dr. G. G. Shumard, 
geologist, and escorted by 45 men of the Tth infantry, under Lieutenants N. B. Pearce and 
G. Chapin. An odometer, compass, aneroid barometer, and thermometer, composed his main 
instruments. 

The object of the expedition was to find suitable lands to reserve for the Indians. 

The command was organized at Fort Washita, and proceeded thence, on the California road, 
to Fort Belknap. Captain Marcy then explored north along the headwaters of the West Fork 
of the Trinity, thence across the head streams of the Little Witchita, and over into the valley . 
of the Big Witchita. Here, in longitude 993?, he left his wagon train, and with a small pack 
train ascended to the head of the Big Witchita, and thence southwest, crossing the head 
streams of the Brazos, where they issue from a small range of mountains about as high as the 
Witchita mountains. He now travelled south until he crossed the South Fork, and thence came 
east until he struck the Qua-qua-he-no or Paint creek, thence northeast, until he struck the 
Brazos, where he met his wagon trains. The expedition now proceeded south, explored a 
portion of the Clear Fork, located on it a reservation for the southern Camanches, and then 
went back to Fort Belknap. Captain Marcy ascertained that what had heretofore been called 
the Double Mountain Fork of the Brazos is a branch of the Clear Fork, and he calls it Paint 
creek. I-have retained the name Double Mountain Fork. No astronomical observations being 
made, he adopted the positions sf oa le and Phantom Hill, from Johnson's map of 


Texas. 


FUR HUNTERS OF THE FAR WEST, BY ALEXANDER ROSS, IN TWO VOLUMES; PUBLISHED BY SMITH, 
ELDER & Co. LONDON: 1855. 

This book begins with the transfer of Astoria to the British Northwest Company, and gives 
the history of this company down to its union with the Hudson’s Bay Company in 1821, which 
closes the 1st volume. The 2d volume is a narrative of some expeditions conducted by the 
author for the Hudson's Bay Company in 1825 and previous years. On one of these he led 

a large trapping party into the Snake country, and visited the sources of Salmon, Malade, 
'Goddin’s, and Reid's or Boisé rivers, giving a very interesting account of much country as yet 
unexplored by any surveying expedition, and, I believe, undescribed in any other book. The 

information concerning it is of great value and interest. 


86 EXPLORATIONS FROM A, D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 


The author, in speaking of the great amount of information required by the members of 
these fur companies, and the little that has been given to the public, says that it has not been 
kept secret from design, but merely from inability to make it public. 

There are many works of travels and adventures on the prairies mentioned in this memoir, 
but I have endeavored to refer to most of those containing accurate information of country not 
covered by the official surveys. 


MARCH OF THE COMMAND UNDER COLONEL STEPTOE FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO CALIFORNIA, 1854-55. 


The report of Captain Rufus Ingalls, who was quartermaster to this command, forms a 
portion of the printed annual Executive Document of 1855, part 2. A map showing the routes 
of portions of the command from Salt Lake city west, is also a part of the same document, and 
was furnished by Captain Ingalls. The command started from Fort Leavenworth during the . 
first part of June, 1854, and travelled the usual route via Fort Kearny, Fort Laramie, South 
Pass, and Bear river, to Great Salt Lake city, where they spent the winter. 

It was the intention to take a new route thence to California south of those usually travelled; 
but an examination made near Salt Lake city determined Colonel Steptoe to abandon this idea 
and take the usual emigrant road to the west of the Great Salt lake. This road led him along 
the Humboldt river to the sinks. He crossed the Sierra Nevada between the sources of 
Carson's and American rivers. At Lassen's Meadows Captain Ingalls diverged to the northwest, 
by way of Goose lake, to Fort Jones and Fort Lane, following the Oregon emigrant road. 

Lieutenant S. Mowry, who accompanied Colonel Steptoe, was detached at Great Salt Lake 
city, in the spring of 1855, to conduct some dragoon recruits and animals by the Santa Fé trail to 
Fort Téjon, in California. This duty he performed. His report was rendered to the adjutant 
general, but has not been published. It was not illustrated by any topographical sketches. 


SURVEY OF MILITARY ROAD IN OREGON, BY LIEUTENANT JOHN W. WITHERS, IN 1854. 


The map, with descriptive notes, is on file in the Topographical Bureau. It is drawn ona 
scale of two miles to an inch. "The road is located along the valley of Umpqua river, between 
Scottsburg and Myrtle creek. The report of Lieutenant Withers accompanied the annual 
report of the Colonel of Topographical Engineers for 1855. 

SURVEYS AND RECONAISSANCE BY LIEUTENANT G. H. DERBY, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN OREGON 
AND WASHINGTON TERRITORIES, 1854 AND 1856. 

The principal of these examinations were for a road from Salem to Astoria, in Oregon, and from 
Columbia barracks to Fort Steilacoom, in Washington Territory. The maps are on file in the 
Topographical Bureau, drawn on a scale of 1 to 48,000. There are also reductions of these 
(made in the Topographical Bureau) to a scale of four miles to an inch. These surveys and maps 
were made by direction of Major H. Bache, Topographical Engineers, by Lieutenant Derby, 
assisted by Mr. George Gibbs and C. M. Bache. A brief report in relation to these routes 
will be found in the annual report of the Colonel of Topographical Engineers for 1855. ! 
RECONAISSANCE OF THE ROUTE OF THE SNAKE RIVER ENT در‎ BY LIEUTENANT G. H. MENDELL, 

TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 18 

I have never seen Lieutenant Mendell’s report. The reconnaissance was probably made by 
means of compass courses and estimated distances, checked by astronomical observations for 
latitude. A tracing from his original map is in the Topographical Bureau. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 87 


This expedition, consisting of about two companies, all mounted, under the command of 
Brevet Major G. P. Haller, fourth infantry, was organized by General Wool, in the summer of 
1855, for the purpose of chastising the Indiayg who had killed some emigrants near Fort Boisé. 
Leaving the Dalles, the expedition followed on or near the South Pass emigrant road, to 
about 70 miles to the east of Fort Boisé. They then took the new emigrant route, through 
Kamas prairie, known as Jeffries’ cut-off. (From the Kamas prairie an examination was made 
south to the Snake river.) On arriving at the junction of the Kamas Prairie creek with the 


: Malade river, the expedition turned to the north and proceeded up this to its source; thence 
. over to Goddin's river; and thence in a northerly course over to the Pash-a-ma-rah creek, which 


they followed to its junction with Salmon river. This latter stream was examined to the mouth 
of its eastern branch, called Mormon river, where the Mormon settlement of Lemhi is located. 
Returning, the expedition ascended Salmon river to its source, and then taking a northwest 
course, passed along the sources of the Moorumba and the Pashewahkite branches of the 
Salmon river. In a valley of the latter tributary they came upon some of the Indians whom 
they were seeking, and inflicted a severe chastisement. From this stream they turned 
southwest, crossing the mountains to the source of Payette river, which they followed to within 
twenty miles of its mouth, and then left to proceed directly to Fort Boisé. They returned the 
remainder of the way on the route by which they went out. 


SURVEYS OF ROADS IN MINNESOTA, UNDER CAPTAIN J. H. SIMPSON, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS. 


Captain Simpson’s annual report for 1855, with a map on a scale of twenty-four miles to an 
inch, showing all the general government roads under his charge, forms a part of the annual 
executive document for that year. One of these roads extends from Point Douglas, on the 
Mississippi, to the mouth of St. Louis river; another from Point Douglas to Fort Ripley; 
another from Fort Ripley, on Crow Wing river, to Otter Tail lake; and another from the Men- 
dota to the mouth of the Big Sioux river. These are the principal roads. The one last 
mentioned was surveyed by Captain Reno in 1853. 

RECONNAISSANCE IN THE DAKOTA OR gm COUNTRY, BY LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, TOPOGRAPHICAL 
ENGINEERS, IN 1855. 

The report « of this forms Senate Executive Document No. 76, 1st session 34th Congress. It 
is | accompanied | bya map on a scale of 1 to 600,000, giving the detailed topography of the routes 
explored, and a general map of Nebraska, on a scale of 1 to 3,000, 000. 

While making this reconnaissance I was attached to the staff of General Harney, commanding 
Sioux expedition, and was assisted by Mr. P. Carrey and J. H. Snowden. Sketches of routes 
were also furnished me by Lieutenant G. T. Balch, U. S. Ordnance, and Lieutenant J. Curtiss, 
2d infantry. The instruments used consisted of odometers, compasses, and barometers. I 
left St. Louis on the Tth of June, and proceeded up the Missouri to Fort Pierre. A reserve 
was laid off and surveyed for that post, and the Missouri examined as far up as the mouth? of 
the Shyenne. On the Tth of August, in company with Mr. Carrey, I left Fort Pierre, with six 
men and one cart, for Fort Kearny, which point was reached on the 21st of August. Here, 
joining General Harney, I accompanied the army along the Platte on the route to Fort Laramie, 
at which place the last barometer was broken. From Fort Laramie the expedition went to 
Fort Pierre, over the route along White river, through the Bad lands, and along the ridge 
between the Little Missouri and Big Shyenne rivers. From Fort Pierre I returned to the 


88 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 


mouth of Big Sioux, through Minnesota, in company with a train under Captain Van Vliet. 
Over the routes travelled the distances were measured with an odometer, and maps were made 
of all the routes traversed. e 
RECONNAISSANCE OF A ROAD FROM FORT LEAVENWORTH TO THE BIG TIMBERS ON THE ARKANSAS, BY 
LIEUTENANT F. T. RYAN, TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1855. 

The map of this is in the Topographical Bureau, but neither it or the report have been published. 

The party under Lieutenant Bryan consisted of Mr. J. Lambert, topographer; Mr. C. Lom- 
bard, road surveyor; Mr. C. F. Larned and S. M. Cooper, assistant topographers. Their 
instruments consisted of compasses and odometers. Having surveyed the route from Fort 
Leavenworth to Fort Riley, they were joined there by an escort under Major L. Armistead. 

On the 4th of August they left Fort Riley, travelled west along the north side of the Kansas 
to the Saline Fork, crossed it, followed up Smoky Hill creek to its source, passed over to the 
Smoky Hill Fork, and thence southwest to Pawnee Fork. Following up Pawnee Fork of the 
Arkansas to its source, they crossed over to the Arkansas and travelled up it to Bent’s new 
` fort at the Big Timbers. Their return route differed but little from the one just described, 
being, however, more direct from the Arkansas to the Smoky Hill Fork, which took them a 
portion of the way along Walnut creek. 


RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUTENANT J. C. AMORY, FROM FORT GIBSON TO BENT’S FORT, IN 1855. 
Lieutenant Amory was attached to the command of Lieutenant Colonel Morrisson, who left 
Fort Gibson and travelled up the Verdigris as far as the Kansas boundary. Here they left 
that river and proceeded northwest, gradually approaching the Arkansas until they struck it 
at the mouth of Walnut creek; thence they proceeded over the usual road to Bent’s Fort. Their 
route from Fort Gibson to the em of Walnut creek was through country previously unex- 
plored. 


RECONNAISSANCE BY MAJOR MERRILL, UNITED STATES DRAGOONS, IN 1855. 


This consists in a sketch of the route of a portion of the 2d dragoons from Fort Belknap 
direct to Council Grove. and Fort Riley. 
MAP COMPILED BY LIEUTENANT I. N. MOORE, UNITED STATES DRAGOONS, IN 1855. 

This map embraces the country between the Rio Grande and Pecos, from the thirty-second 
parallel to the thirty-sixth, and is compiled from examinations, sketches, and notes taken by 
himself, Major Carlton, Lieutenant Higgins, and other officers of the army, while traversing 
this region on Indian scouts, &c. "The positions of the main points along the Rio Grande, 
Canadian route, and upper El Paso route, are taken from the published maps of the Topo- 
graphical Engineers. 


_ RECONNAISSANCE BY LIEUTENANT E. L. HARTZ, UNITED STATES EIGHTH INFANTRY, 1856. 

Lieutenant Hartz, with a command of three non-commissioned officers and twenty-four men, 
with two wagons, started on the 16th of August from Fort Davis to intersect the El Paso road. 
His general course was nearly west, but with many detours to obtain water. He passed 
through the Carisso Pass, which is difficult for wagons, and struck the El Paso road twenty- 
five miles west of Eagle Springs. A map of this route was made by Lieutenant Hartz, on a 
scale of one inch to five miles. It is not stated i in his report or map what instruments were 
— in reconnoitring. 


EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 To A. D. 1857. 89 


EXPLORATIONS FOR ROAD FROM FORT RILEY TO BRIDGER'S PASS, BY LIEUTENANT F. T. BRYAN, 
TOPOGRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, 1856. 


The report of this will be found in the annual documents accompanying the President's 
message for 1857. The original map, on a scale of 1 to 600,000, is in the Topographical 
Bureau, and was not published with it. Lieutenant Bryan was assisted by Mr. J. Lambert, 
Mr. C. F. Larned, Mr. S. M. Cooper, assistant topographers, and Mr. H. Englemann, as 
geologist. They were provided with odometers, compasses, barometers, and sextant. They 
were accompanied by thirty men, and protected by an escort of one company of the 6th 
infantry, under Major L. A. Armistead. 

They left Fort Riley in June, 1856, and followed up the Republican Fork of the Kansas to 
the 40th parallel, when they crossed over to the Platte, near Fort Kearny. From this point 
they travelled up the Platte and South Fork to Lodge Pole creek, up which the main party 
proceeded. At the mouth of Lodge Pole creek Mr. Lambert was directed to ascend the South 
Fork to the mouth of Pawnee creek, examine this to its source, then to proceed west to the 
Emigrant. road, and, by following it northward, to join the main party on the Lodge Pole 
creek. This junction having been effected, the whole command proceeded west to the source 
of Lodge Pole creek, passed the Black Hills, continued westward, south of the Medicine Bow 
Butte, crossed the Platte, and reached the divide between the waters of the Platte and Green 
river, in the neighborhood of Bridger's Pass. 

On their return they passed north of the Medicine Bow Butte, crossed the Black Hills at the 
source of Cache à la Poudre creek, and travelled down it to the south fork of the Platte. At the 
head of Cache à la Poudre Mr. Lambert was detached, and proceeded east, along the source of 
Howard's creek to Crow creek, down which he travelled, joining the main party at its mouth. 
The whole party now proceeded down the South Fork to near the mouth of Pawnee creek, 
where they left it. Striking east, they came upon the Rock creek branch of the Republican 
Fork, and examined it down to the main stream. The main party continued down the 
Republican to Fort Riley. In about longitude 99? 30', Lieutenant Bryan, accompanied by Mr. 
Larned and Mr. Cooper, left the Republican, and turning south struck Solomon's Fork and 

ore it to its mouth. Thence they proceeded to Fort Riley. 


SURVEY o uD rio oana omr To sont KEARNY, BY CAPTAIN JOHN H. DICKERSON, A. Q. M. 
1856. 


d‏ مجرتم 
z et FOE M‏ 


The report of Captain Dickerson is published with the documents accompanying the Presi- 
dent's annual message for 1857, but without the map, which is in the Bureau of Topographical 
Engineers, under the direction of which the survey was made. This survey, from Omaha to 
the Platte, and along that river to Fort Kearny, was made with a chain and compass and 
spirit level. 

A survey was made, with compass and odometer, of the route up the Loup Fork, on the south 
side, leaving it near the mouth of Beaver creek. 

RECONNAISSANCE FROM FORT RANDALL TO FORT KEARNY, BY LIEUTENANT W. D. SMITH, SECOND 

DRAGOONS, IN 1856. 

A reconnaissance was made of this route during the march of a squadron of the 2d dragoons, 
under Lieutenant W. D. Smith. The report is accompanied by a sketch map, made from the 
measured distances, but without compass courses. The report has not been printed. 

12 


90 EXPLORATIONS FROM A. D. 1852 TO A. D. 1857. 
RECONNAISSANCE FROM FORT RIDGELY TO FORT PIERRE, BY CAPTAIN A. SULLY, SECOND INFANTRY, 
“ IN 1856. 


A reconnaissance was made of this route by Captain Sully, whose company formed part of 
the command of Lieutenant Colonel Abercrombie, in making the movement between these two 
posts. Topographical sketches were made with a pocket compass and estimated distances. 
Captain Sully determined the source of the Big Sioux river to be in Lake Kampeska. This 
map and the report are not yet published. 


RECONNAISSANCE ON THE MISSOURI AND YELLOWSTONE RIVERS, BY LIEUTENANT G. K. WARREN, TOPO- 
GRAPHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1856. 


A map on a scale of 1 to 600,000 has been prepared and the material reduced from it to the 
Pacific railroad map. The detailed report and map are not yet published. 

On this reconnaissance I was assisted by Mr. N. H. Hutton and Mr. J. H. Snowden, assistant 
topographers, Drf and F. V. Hayden, geologist and naturalist, and was provided with an astrono- 
mical transit, a sextant, chronometers, barometers, odometers, and compasses. We started on a 
steamboat from St. Louis, April 16, to join General Harney at Fort Pierre, and on our way made a 
map of the Missouri from the mouth of the Big Nemeha. At Fort Pierre I received orders from 
General Harney to proceed on board the American Fur Company's boat St. Mary, and examine 
the Missouri river as far as she should go, and then to return down the stream by Mackinac 
boats. The Missouri river was thus mapped as far up as the mouth of the Big Muddy, sixty 
miles above Fort Union. The party consisted, in addition to the assistants, of about thirty 
men, seventeen of whom were enlisted men of the 2d infantry. While waiting for the Fur 
Company at Fort Union to build a Mackinac boat, animals and wagons were purchased, and the 
whole party explored the left bank of the Yellowstone to the mouth of Powder river. On the 
return a skin boat was made, and Mr. Hutton sailed down the Yellowstone to its mouth, making 
a map of the stream. On starting down the Missouri on the Ist of September, the wagons 
were disposed of, and all the property, stores, and collections placed in the Mackinac boat. 
The animals were conducted along the river by seven men, and camped every night with the 
boat. A halt of one day, and sometimes of two, was made at the mouths of streams coming 
into the Missouri, and at other important localities, where, by means of the animals, careful 
examinations were made. We arrived at Fort Pierre on the 2d of October, where the 
expedition terminated. 


BRIEF STATEMENT OF THE EXPEDITIONS THAT TOOK THE FIELD IN 1857. 


The United States astronomical and surveying parties for establishing the boundary line 
(49th parallel) between the United States and Great Britain, of which Archibald Campbell, 
esq. was commissioner, and Lieutenant J. G. Parke, Topographical Engineers, astronomer, 
was organized under the State Department, and started for the field of operations on the 
Pacific coast in April, 1857. 

The party under Mr. W. H. Nobles, organized in the Interior Department for making a road 
from Fort Ridgely to the South Pass, examined the route during the summer as far west as the 
Missouri, at the mouth of Crow creek. 

The party under Lieutenant Warren, Topographical Engineers, organized by the War 
Department, started in June in two divisions—one from Omaha city, the other from Sioux 


EXPLORATIONS IN 1857. 91 


city. They united at the mouth of Loup Fork, examined this stream to its source, and thence 
proceeded, by way of the valley of the Niobrara river, to Fort Laramie. Thence they proceeded 
north, explored the Black Hills, and returning by way of the Niobrara river,examined it to its 


. mouth. 


The wagon road expedition organized under the Department of the Interior, of which Mr. 
F. W. Lander was the engineer, made reconnaissances of the mountains between Green river 
and Bear river. ' 

The wagon road expedition under Lieutenant Bryan, this year, was confined to routes which 
he had previously mapped and explored. 

The expedition against the Shyenne Indians, commanded by Colonel Sumner, explored a 
portion of the country between the Platte and Arkansas rivers. 

The party commanded by Colonel Johnston to survey the southern boundary of Kansas, and 
of which Mr. J. H. Clark was astronomer, and Mr. Weiss surveyor, was organized by the War 
Department. It accomplished that work and reconnoitred the country south of the line. 

The party for constructing a wagon road from Fort Defiance to the Colorado river was organ- 
ized by the War Department, and placed in charge of Mr. E. F. Beale. He examined the line 
of the proposed road during the summer and winter. 

The party for the construction of a wagon road from El Paso to Fort Yuma, of which Mr. 
was superintendent, and Mr. N. H. Hutton was engineer, passed the summer 
and winter in the operation, and have not yet returned. 

The expedition of Captain Pope, for making of experiments in Artesian well-boring, is still 
in the field. 

A party under Mr. Major, for establishing the portion of the 98th and 100th meridians be- 
tween the Canadian and Red rivers, was organized by the Interior Department, and is still in 
the field. 

The expedition under Lieutenant Ives for ascertaining the navigability of the Colorado of 
the Gulf of California, was organized under the War Department, and is still in the field. 

The Land Office surveys along the whole frontier are advancing steadily, as in former years. 


CHAPTER V. 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP, WITH LIST OF PRINCIPAL DETERMI- 
NATIONS OF LONGITUDE. 


THE compilation of a map exhibiting the present state of our knowledge of the topography 
and hydrography of the territory of the United States, from the Mississippi river to the Pacific 
Ocean, is attended with two perplexing difficulties. First, the determination of what is relia- 
ble information; and second, the reconcilement of those discrepancies which are found to exist 
- even in maps of reliable explorers. Comparatively few points in this large area have their 
latitudes and longitudes determined with precision; and the surveys and explorations vary in 
accuracy, by almost insensible degrees, from the determinations of a boundary line to the crude 
information of the Indian, or the still more vague representations of the imaginative adventurer. 

In some large sections we possess no information, except from uncertain sources. In these 
parts the rule was adopted to leave the map blank, or to faintly indicate such information as is 
probably correct. 

Where discrepancies are found on comparing the maps of reliable explorations, especially in 
relation to geographical positions, the principle has been carried out of considering that ex- 
plorer’s map the most accurate whose experience and means of observation were the most 
perfect. Where these advantages appeared equal, a mean of the results was adopted. In 
other cases, a less proportionate value was given to the inferior, and in some cases it was even 
rejected. It is evident that the combination of the materials of different maps in one has 

necessarily required some distortion of the originals, — in all cases, much caution was observed 
to make this distortion as little as possible. 

The scale on which the general map was drawn and engraved is that of 1 to 3,000,000, or 
47.35 miles toaninch. This is too small to adequately represent the topography and character of 
the country, except in a very general way; and exacts either a sacrifice of many important details, 
or a deviation from the adopted scale. Many streams are laid down that would not, in their 
proper proportions, have a width greater than the 100,000th part of an inch. It is thought, 
however, that the map will answer the purposes for which it was intended, and its size (4 feet 
by 3 feet 10 inches) renders it more convenient for Foro than if it were drawn upon a larger 
scale. 

The projection of the meridians and parallels of latitude has been made from the tables pub- 
lished in the annual report of Professor A. D. Bache, Superintendent United States Coast 
Survey, for 1854, and is known as the “ Polyconic method.” This projection admits of a correct 
application of the scale of distance to all parts of the map, in directions east and west, and also 
along the middle meridian. But as we recede from the middle meridian, the length of miles 
on the scale are somewhat too small. This difference is greatest on the northeast and north- 
west corners of the map. Thus the length of two degrees on the 124th meridian is about three 
miles greater than on the 106th or middle meridian. This distortion is, however, so small, 
that distances are practically correct for all azimuths. 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 93 


The compilation was begun at the eastern portion—the valley of the Mississippi. Here the 
surveys of the United States lands furnish a great amount of accurate material, but as they do 
not generally depend upon astronomical determinations, it is necessary to seek elsewhere for 
the means of fixing them in correct geographical position. I have, perhaps, attached more 
than the usual value to these surveys, and feel that it is needful, in order to sustain the accu- 
racy of the compilation, to give my reasons for so doing.* 

The first operation of land surveying, according to the principles adopted in the United 
States General Land Office, is to mark out and carefully measure a principal meridian. A 
principal base line is then established and measured along a parallel of latitude. Sometimes 
this line is run first. ‘‘Standard parallels are established at stated intervals, to provide for or 
counteract the error that otherwise would result from the convergency of the meridians."' 
Some of these lines are measured several times; and the numerous checks which the system 
presents in the subsequent subdivision makes the measurements between any two meridians or 
parallels very reliable. "The error in the difference of longitude between any two points near 
the same parallel, or in the difference of latitude near the same meridian, as determined by the 
Land Office plots, will not probably exceed one minute of arc in a distance of 500 miles.T Any 
slight deviation which may be made in the establishment of the meridian will not materially affect 
such differences of longitude; but it will affect the relative longitude of points along the meri- 
dian. It wil be seen hereafter that there is reason to think that errors of deviation from 
the true meridian have been made in running the land survey meridians. 

The first step made in compiling the Land Office maps was to fix upon the geographical 
— of the different p meridians. 

The fourth principal meridian runs north from the mouth of the Illinois river through Illinois 
and Wisconsin, and, according to the land surveys, is about 134 miles east of the mouth of the 
Minnesota river. This point, as determined by Mr. Colhoun, of Major Long’s expedition, in 
xd Captain a T. E., in his map of 1843-44 ; Major Emory, T. E., in his map of military reconnaissance, in 1846 ; 
Captain Stansbury, T. E., Eo a MEME 1849; and Lieut. Bryan, T. E., on his map of 
route from Fort Leavenworth to the Big Timbers, 1855 ; all used Mr. Nicollet’s gitude of Fort Leay- 
enworth, though the connexions by Land Office surveys, with aie hien ai toes Taide, bial — them the 
Sica ی یی‎ Lieutenant Beckwith; ره‎ Beckie: Railroad Roper, weh, d 4to edition, page 125, states that 


principal meridians to be perpendicular to the parallels, and consequently parallel to each other. 

When the plat is made from the surveys, from one principal meridian, the projection known as the Flamsteed can be 
constructed directly upon it—all that is necessary being to lay off, in the parallels, the lengths of degrees, and to draw the 
meridians through these points. The meridians will be curved lines, the curvature increasing with the distance from the 
principal meridian. The map can then be readily reduced to any other projection by the ordinary method of ruling corre, 
prem lines on each projection. 

The Flamsteed projection is one of the simplest and best for persons desirous of constructing maps where there are few 
facilities. All that is necessary is to know the lengths of a degree of the meridian. The lengths of the parallels will be 
(assuming the earth as a sphere) proportional to the cosines of the latitude. The parallels are all drawn as parallel straight 
lines, at the distance of a degree or part of a degree from each other. The middle meridian of the map is perpendicular 
to them. The lengths of degrees, or parts of degrees, are then marked off, from the middle meridian each way, on the 
parallels. Lines drawn through the points thus fixed give the other meridians, which are all curved lines, crossing the 
parallels obliquely, the angle decreasing as the distance from the middle meridian is increased. Where the distance from 
the middle meridian does not exceed 4°, this simple projection will be found sufficiently accurate for nearly all purposes. 


94 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


1823, and subsequently verified by Mr. Nicollet, (see page 116 of his report,) is about longi- 
tude 93° 05/, and is undoubtedly the best determined point, by astronomical observations, on 
the Upper Mississippi. It would place the fourth principal meridian in longitude 90° 20’, 
which is the position I have assigned it in the State of Wisconsin. The longitude of St. Louis, 
quite well established by the observations of Mr. Nicollet, is about 90° 15’ 10". The fourth 
meridian is about twelve miles to the westward, making it here in longitude about 90° 30’. 
If both of these are correct, an error of about one degree deviation to the east was made in 
running this meridian—an error which I felt obliged to assume in locating it. 

The fifth principal meridian passes through the mouth of the Arkansas river, and in Missouri 
lies about forty miles west of St. Louis. Its longitude, referred to this last point, is therefore 
about 90° 58’. It was made to conform, in direction, to the sixth principal meridian. 

The siath principal meridian, in Missouri, lies about 114 miles west of St. Louis, making its 
longitude there 92° 13’. This meridian, in Louisiana, lies about 146 miles west of New 
Orleans, whose longitude (Nicollect’s Report, page 121) is 89° 59’. It is therefore in this 
latitude, in about longitude 92° 23’. But the longitude of Nut cape, at the mouth of the 
Sabine, as determined by Major J. D. Graham, Topographical Engineers, is 95° 50’ 15". 
This point is about ninety miles west of the sixth principal meridian, which would therefore 
place the latter in longitude 92° 20’. The difference of longitude of this meridian, as referred 
to New Orleans and Cape Nut, amounts to 3’, which is probably within the limit of error in 
these astronomical results. I have therefore given the sixth principal meridian, in Louisiana, 
the position obtained from a mean of these two references, that is, in longitude 92° 21’ 30", 
Here, therefore, with the sixth principal meridian, as with the fourth, we find a difference in 
the longitude of its northern and southern extremities of 8' 30", requiring a deviation from 
the true meridian of 1? to the east.* . 

The positions of the fourth and sixth principal meridians having boen fixed thus, the surveys 
made with reference to them established the longitudes approximately of all points of the land 
office surveys from Lake Superior to the Gulf of Mexico; of the whole western frontier; of the 
west boundaries of the States; and of the starting points of all the expeditions from that region. 
Previous astronomical determinations placed these points from 12’ to 15’ too far to the east. 

The adoption of the determinations of positions for the mouth of the Minnesota river, for St. 
Louis, for New Orleans, and for Cape Nut, to the exclusion of all others, was not made without 
careful investigation and comparisons. ۱ 

Mr. Warner Lewis, surveyor general of Iowa, furnished me with several measurements along 
the base lines in that State, and the gentlemen in the General Land Office in Washington 
afforded me every facility for investigation and comparison. 

The longitudes of places thus determined on the general map will, m not be found i in 
error by more than 5 of arc.t All astronomical determinations of latitude were used, when 
carefully made, and they generally agreed with the land surveys. The eastern portion of the 

© The commission appointed to run the west boundary of Arkansas south of Fort Smith have found the north end of the 
land survey meridian inclining to the east, as I had been obliged to represent it on the map. 

t A discussion of the difference of longitude, as determined by the land surveys and by the astronomical observations, was 
made by Mr. Charles Whittlesey and published with the report of Foster and Whitney on the geology of the Lake Superior 
district, —(Senate Executive Doc. No. 4, special session, March, 1851.) Mr. Whittlesey did not, in this discussion, use the 
astronomical determination of the mouth of the Minnesota river, which I consider the best one in the region of the Upper 
Mississippi. Probably the land surveys had not then progressed sufficiently to enable him to compare its results with the 
other at this point. 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. l 95 


map was compiled and engraved in 1854, since which time several good determinations of 
longitude have been obtained, and compare as follows with those upon this compilation: 

Point Seul Choix, 85° 48’, general map; 85° 50’, Captain J. N. Macomb, T. E.* 

Chicago, 87° 40, general map; 87° 38', Major J. D. Graham, T. E.t 

Lyons, Illinois, 90° 14’, general map; 90° 14’, Major J. D. Graham, T. ۳. 

West Bound. Missouri, 94° 38’, general map; 94° 40’, J. H. Clark.$ 

The land surveys have been reduced on the bases thus established as far east as the map 
extends, and as far west as these surveys have been made. 

These surveyed lands are bounded on the west by an irregular line extending from the 
Upper Mississippi, southwest by the St. Peter's river, across the northwest corner of Iowa to 
the Big Sioux river, and thence south, through the eastern parts of Nebraska and Kansas, 
(passing near the mouth of Loup Fork and Fort Riley,) and thence along the west boundaries of 
Missouri, Arkansas, and Louisiana, to the Gulf of Mexico. These surveys, therefore, deter- 
mine the geographical position of the eastern portion of most of the lines of exploration with 
much more precision than the few hasty and imperfect astronomical observations which the 
parties were enabled to make. This method of reducing the land office surveys has also located 
the Mississippi river with a geographical accuracy probably not before equalled by any map. 

The land surveys in Utah furnish us with a map of a considerable area along the western 
foot of the Wasatch mountains near the Great Salt Lake, their geographical position being 
determined by the results of Captain Frémont's astronomical observations near the site of 
Great Salt Lake city in 1845. 

The land surveys in New Mexico are as ye confined mainly to the valley of the Rio Grande, 
but in the latitude of Santa Fé, have been extended east to the sources of the Canadian river. 
These surveys connect the Mexican boundary surveys with those near the 35th parallel. 

The land surveys of California, Oregon, and Washington Territories, also afford much relia- 
ble information. The “San Bernardino meridian” passes through the summit of the peak of 
that name, in the southern part of the State of California, and, as referred to the astronomical 
determinations of the United States Coast Survey, is in about longitude 116° 55'. "The Monte 
— passes through the summit of Monte Diabolo, about twenty-seven miles east 
isco m in = Bh, ana کا‎ by the Coast sate determinations, oe 123° a 


Roc ne 


tude of Fort panty at about 122° 1l'09". At the time of constructing this RAS of the 
general map, the best determination of this point which we possessed was that of Captain J. 
C. Frémont, published in his Geographical Memoir of Oregon and Upper California. This 
places it in longitude 122° 6' 50". The determinations of Lieutenants Williamson and Abbot 
place it in longitude 122? 10’ 50”, closely agreeing with the Land Office work referred to the 


Coast Survey. 

In Oregon and Washington Territories, the principal meridian of the Land Office surveys 
passes through the point of land formed by the junction of the Willamette and Columbia rivers. 
Its longitude has been determined by measurement between it and several points of the United 

® See charts of lake surveys under Topographical Bureau. | 

+ Obtained by magnetic signals between Chicago and Quebec. 

f Chronometer difference between Lyons and Chicago.—(See proceedings Chicago Historical Society, 1858.) 

$ Survey of southern boundary of Kansas in 1858 


96 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


States Coast Survey, and is about 122? 47’. The meridian through Mount Pierce has not as 
yet determined any points of particular value. 

The United States Coast Surveys on the shores of the Pacific and Gulf of Mexico, are copied 
on the general map wherever they have been extended. The work, however, is just beginning— 
large portions of the coast being only fixed by preliminary reconnaissances—the outlines of 
the shore on their maps are therefore frequently changed as their surveys progress. 

By means of the United States Land Office surveys, and a few carefully determined astro- 
nomical positions, the longitude of most of the starting points of the different exploring expe- 
ditions on the east, have now been geographically fixed; and by means of the Land Office and 
Coast Surveys, the termini of many of them on the west. The maps of the surveys of the 
boundary between Mexico and the United States have been reduced to the general map as 
received from the office of those surveys; the work forming the southern border of the compi- 
lation, From this line I shall proceed north in describing the manner in which the. map has 
been filled in, and in so doing shall take up the different surveys without regard to the date of 
their prosecution, selecting the most reliable first. ln doing this the strict order of relative 
position must occasionally be abandoned, in order to settle the longitudes of some points com- 
mon to several explorations. | i 

Texas first claims attention. Colonel Johnston's published map, (Senate Executive Docu- 
ment, No. 64, 1st session 31st Congress,) as well as the manuscript maps of his subsequent 
explorations, are all made under the supposition that the longitude of San Antonio de Bexar is 

But his subsequent observations with a transit gave for this longitude 98° 25’, or 15’ 
east of that on the map. This would seem to require that the reconnaissances represented on 
that map should all be moved 15’ towards the east. The surveys of the Mexican boundary, 
however, show that El Paso and the mouth of Devil’s river were only about 10’ too far west 
on Colonel Johnston’s map. I have therefore moved the eastern part of Colonel Johnston’s 
map 15’ to the east, and the western portions but 10’, and reduced the intervening routes of 
reconnaissance accordingly.* The longitude of Preston then becomes 96° 38’. On Colonel 
Johnston’s map it is 96° 53’; on Captain Marcy's, 96° ۰, 

Captain Pope’s preliminary map, published with his Pacific Railroad Report, 8vo edition, 
differs very materially, in some of the positions, from those thus obtained from Colonel John- 
ston’s map, especially along the route of the survey of Lieutenant Michler, T. E.; but, after 
careful examination, I have adopted Colonel Johnston’s work. Captain Pope’s railroad recon- 
naissance route has been reduced conformably to the positions thus obtained. The portions of 
Texas south and west of Colonel Johnston’s map have been reduced from J, De Cordova’s map 
of Texas, dated 1849, which was the last edition available at the time of my compilation. 

The map of Lieutenant Parke’s exploration for a railroad route between El Paso and the 
Pimas villages, in 1855, + has been adopted and reduced without change. His survey was 
very carefully checked by a nearly continuous system of compass triangulations from peak to 
peak. His line was located by an ‘odometer and compass survey, corrected by astronomical 
observations, with a sextant for latitude. The geographical positions for El Paso and the 
Pimas villages were adopted as given by the United States Mexican Boundary Commission. 

9 The Mexican boundary maps retain the longitude of the lower crossing of the P. د ا‎ ee ا‎ 

[ Lieutenant Parke's surveys on this route, in 1854, as mapped did تیان‎ thi tius Docanidnt T9; intial a 
in our last reduction. Corrected, however, in his position of Dos Cabesas, and with the Rio Arivaypa taken from his last 
survey, it appeared on the first edition with the preliminary reconnaissances of the first Mexican Boundary Commission. 
The arrangements made in reducing these maps need not now be discussed, as they have been replaced. 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 97 


Lieutenant Parke’s map of his surveys for a railroad route in California, in 1854— 55, has 
also been reduced without change on the general map. The following note appears on his map: 
_‘*The entire coast line, with the exception of that portion lying between Point San Luis and 
Santa Barbara, and also the position of Picacho de Gavilan, were obtained from charts of the 
United States Coast Survey. The eastern limits of the Coast range; the position of the Tulare, 
Buenavista, and Kern lakes; a portion of the Mohave valley; the Los Angeles and San Bernar- 
dino plains; the Santa Ana river; and the foot hills of the Sierra Nevada, were obtained from 
the surveys of the United States General Land Office. The lower portion of the Mohave valley, 
and the south end of Soda lake, were taken from the surveys of Lieutenants A. W. Whipple and 
R. S. Williamson, United States Topographical Engineers.”’ 

The portion of the Coast mountains of California lying between the limits of Lieutenant 
Parke's and the Mexican boundary maps, and the country extending as far east as Soda lake, 
are reduced partly from the Land Office maps, partly from Lieutenant Williamson's map of 
surveys in 1853 and 1854, and partly from Lieutenant Whipple's survey of a railroad route 
near the thirty- fifth parallel. The San Bernardino meridian, placed in longitude 116° 55’ by 
referring it to the Coast Survey longitude of San Diego and San Pedro, is considered to deter- 
mine the longitude of other points where the Land Office surveys have been carried with more 
accuracy than either Lieutenant Whipple’s or Lieutenant Williamson’s surveys. The longitude 
of the eastern entrance of the Cajon Pass is thus fixed at 117° 29’; Lieutenant Whipple having 
it 117° 25’, and Lieutenant Williamson 117° 32 40". Los Angeles is placed in longitude 118° 
14’; being on Lieutenant Whipple’s map 118° 10’, and on Lieutenant Williamson's 118° 13 20". 
The maps of Lieutenants Whipple and Williamson have been altered in the reduction to agree 
with these positions. The mouth of the Mojave cafion, west of Soda lake, is placed by Lieu- 
tenant Whipple in longitude 116° 117 35", and by Lieutenant Williamson in longitude 116° 18’. 
As Lieutenant Whipple had the benefit of Lieutenant Williamson’s determination in making 
his own, and was, moreover, supplied with an astronomical transit, his longitude has been 
adopted. - However, as his longitude of Cajon Pass was 4’ too far east, the same error probably 
affects his location of the point under consideration, and it would, perhaps, be more accurate to 
assume a mean position between Lieutenants Williamson and Whipple’s for the mouth of 
the Mojave cañon, viz: 116° 15’. By taking Lieutenant Whipple’s determination, I was enabled 
E. CNEA his map nen Menge from this point to near its eastern or starting point at Fort 

mith. — 

The longnde of Fort Bait, 7 as determined by the Land Office maps in die 
manner already stated, is 949 25'. "This result receives confirmation from the determination of 
the longitude of Fort Gibson, 95° 15’, by Lieutenant Woodruff. For, by the road survey 
made by R. Richardson in 1826, the difference of longitude between Fort Gibson and Fort 
Smith is 0° 51'; agreeing almost exactly with these two independent locations. The following 
positions in longitude have been given Fort Smith on different maps: 


i [e] Li 
Major Long’s map of explorations to Rocky mountains in 1820. .................... 95 05 
Lieut. Simpson’s survey of Canadian in 1849............. Lee cece es e mirri 94 23 
UD RD Mero map of his routes tti 1849.2... مج همم وم مج‎ RE 94 14 
Map compiled in Topographical Bureau in 1850................ cece ee cece ee eese 94 03 
Capt. Marcy’s map of explorations to sources of Red river in 1852 ................ + 94 0T 
Lieut. Whipple's map of pen for Pacific railroad route in 1853 and 1854...... .... 94 29 
pti Dru ee و‎ e ar esu REG «< < ES < 94 25 


13 


98 | METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


The meridian which passes ‘‘100 paces west of Fort Smith" forms the west boundary of 
Arkansas between the Arkansas and Red rivers. There being 4’ difference in longitude between 
Lieut. Whipple’s position of Fort Smith and the one adopted by me, the discrepancy has been 
distributed along his route between Fort Smith and the branch of Topofki creek, which is in 
longitude 96° 57’ 37”, this distance being practically enough to reduce the difference within 
the limit of error of such reconnaisance. From this branch of Topofki creek to Albuquerque 
his map is reduced without change. This portion of Lieut. Whipple’s map, forming sheet 
No. 1, as carefully revised by him, does not differ materially in its geographical positions from 
that published in the House Executive document No. 129, Ist session 33d Congress. The 
following changes were made by him in the names: Camp No 31, Washita river, to Camp No. 
31, Comet creek ; Camp No. 32 to Camp No. 32, Silver creek ; Camp No. 33, Washita river, 
to Camp No. 33, Oak creek; Camp No. 42, Antelope creek, to Camp No. 42, White Sandy 
creek. Lieut. Whipple’s یا‎ of Albuquerque, 106° 37’ 52,” is 6’ east of Major pacii 8 
position for it. 

From Albuquerque west to Soda lake Lieut. Whipple’s revision of his work changed the 
longitudes of nearly all his points, as first published in House document No. 129, 1st session 
33d Congress. The first edition of the general map was compiled and engraved from his pre- 
liminary map. The second edition contains his work in its revised form. As Lieut. Whipple’s 
longitudes were, in some instances, determined by means of observations with an astronomical 
transit, his geographical positions were adopted in preference to those of Lieut. Simpson on his 
expedition to the Navajo country in 1849, or of Captain Sitgreaves in his expedition along the 
Zufii and Colorado rivers in 1851. The following is a list of the common points of their routes 
with the different longitudes : 


Simpson. | Sitgreaves. |Whipple's 1st Whipple’s 2d 

map.* _ map. 
ps dit w oi 5$ D 9». 
Oiga مهو‎ 108 41 45 --| 108 19 00 | 108 14 18 
OMEN pet 108 56 00 108 56 00 | 108 32 00 108 42 44 
Last Camp on Colorado Chiquito ....... 110 53 37 110 50 00 110 53 37 
Leroux Spring ..... 111 39 32 | 111 37 00 111 39 32 
113 29 50 | 113 27 00 118 21 21 
Common Point on Colorado, latitude 349 50’ 114 40 00 | 114 30 00 114 29 00 
Mouth of Williams' river | 114 14 00 114 05 00 114 00 00 


The latitudes of these different surveys agree almost exactly. 


The route of Capt. Sitgreaves 


was caben both times - fit the pnm cmt determined by Lieut. Whipple, sometimes requir- 
longa Capt. Sitgreaves’ route down the Colorado, from 

Williams’ river to Fort Yuma, is made to accord with Lieut. Whipple's determination for the 
mouth of Williams' river, and that of the United States Mexican Boundary Commission for Fort 
Yuma.  Lieut. Whipple, in — his sheet No. 2, made the following changes in the names 
of places : 

Camp No. 16, Rio Puerco of the Fü to Camp No. 76, near Lithodendron creek. 

Camp No. 77, Lithodendron creek; to Camp No. TT, Rio Puerco of the West. 

` ® The first edition of the general map app ith these det basis for that part of the 35th parallel route: 


| 
Í 
| 
! 


Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
Camp No. 
. Camp No. 
Camp No. 
-Camp No. 

Camp No. 

Camp No. 

Camp No. 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


104, Pueblo creek, to Camp No. 104, Aztec Pass. 
105, Pueblo creek, to Camp No. 105, Williams' river. 
106, Cafion creek, to Camp No. 106, Williams' river. 
107, Cafion creek, to Camp No. 107, Williams’ river. 
108, Cafion creek, to Camp No. 108, Williams’ river. 
109, Cafion creek, to Camp No. 109, White Cliff creek. 


113, mouth of Cafion creek, to Camp No. 113, Williams’ river. 
114, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
115, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
116, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
117, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
118, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
119, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
120, Big Sandy creek, to Camp No. 
121, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp No. 
122, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp No. 
123, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp No. 
124, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp No. 
125, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp: No. 
126, Rio Santa Maria, to Camp No. 


114, Williams’ 
115, Williams’ 
116, Williams 
117, Williams’ 
118, Williams’ 
119, Williams’ 
120, Williams’ 


121, Williams’ 
122, Williams’ 
123, Williams’ 
124, Williams’ 
125, Williams’ 


126, Williams’ 


river. 


river. 
river. 
river. 
river. 
river. 
river. 


river. 
river, 
river, 
river, 
river. 
river. 


99 


Lieutenant Simpson, in his map of the route of the expedition to the Navajo country in - 
1849, bases all his astronomical determinations upon the longitude of Santa Fé, determined by 
Major Emory in 1846, viz: 106° 02’ 30". In this way he determined the longitude of his 
station, ‘‘two miles northwest from the mouth of the Caiion de Chelly," (his most western 
station,) to be 109° 42’ 30"; Cañon Cito Bonito, (near Fort Defiance,) to be 109° 15' 30”; 
Zuiii to be 108° 56’. TPE A to Lieutenant Whipple, Zuñi is 13’ too far west. Lieutenant 
Whipple’s revised position for Fort Defiance is in longitude 108° 59’, making Lieutenant 
Simpson’s position for it 16’ 30" too far west; but this determination of Lieutenant Whipple 
-depends upon a side reconnaissance, and ا‎ be considered as accurate as the main line of 
his route. I have, however, considered the determinations of Lieutenant Whipple, where 
they have tested Lieutenant Simpson's work, as sufficient authority for moving the latter’s 
position of. the most. „western part of Cañon de Chelly 13’ to the east, thus placing it in 
longitude 109° 02’. Lieutenant Simpson’s trail was reduced between this assumed position 
and Santa Fé, adopting Major Emorry’s longitude for the latter. The error in position which 
Lieutenant Simpson’s work shows, according to Lieutenant Whipple’s, is not greater than is 
liable to the method employed, viz: chronometric differences by chronometers transported over 
rough and mountainous country. 

Lieutenant Simpson’s survey along the Canadian in 1849, agrees with the positions adopted 
by Lieutenant Whipple. 

.lhave experienced not a little difficulty in bringing in Captain Marcy’s map of the expedi- 
tion to the sources of the Red river in 1852. Astronomical observation with a sextant and 
watch were occasionally made on this exploration by Captain G. B. McClellan, Corps of 
Engineers. Captain McClellan has no report thereon in the printed document, and no 
observations are given, the results being mentioned through the journal or report of Captain 
Marcy. The latitudes of points, as thus given, differ sometimes considerably from the map, 


100 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP, 


and I have adopted the latter, thinking it most probable that the discrepancy grew out of error 
in copying the manuscript or printing the report. I have made out the following list of 
latitudes and longitudes from the report, though it is not always certain that they are given as 
the result of astronomical observation. 


Place. dont. Latitude. Longitude. 

۱ o rt» gu v 
Mouth of Big Witchita, (on the map 349 15/) 34 25 1 S | 
Camp on Otter Creek ; |. 84. 34 16 100 00 45 
Camp on North Fork, Red river ES 35 03 00 100 12 ۰ 0 

Do do do ; | 85.15.45 

Do. do do 1 35 24 50 > 
Camp on Sweetwater creek i 56 $6 18 22 ۱ 
Camp on North Fork, near the source — 35 35 03 101 55 00 
Camp near Red river and Panther pond, (on map 34€ 38) : 34 08 39 |. i 


Camp on Gypsum creek, (on map 34° 38’) S4-:08 1 با‎ 


The longitude of the camp on Otter creek was found by lunar distances to be 100° 00’ 45”. 
It is not stated how many observations were taken, but the expedition arrived at the point 
May 22, and by May 29 the observations had been made and calculated, and Captain McClellan 
started on this day, traced the 100th meridian south to its intersection with Red river, and 


marked a cotton-wood tree to indicate the point. The longitude of the mouth of the Little 


Witchita, 98°, and of Fort Washita, 96° 38’, I have already determined, the difference being 
1° 22’. On Captain Marcy’s map of 1852, the first is in longitude 98° 30’, (30' too far west, ) 
and the second is 96° 20’, (18' too far east,) the difference being 2° 10. Fort Arbuckle is 
placed by Captain Marcy in longitude 97° 07’. The position it assumes, by reducing Captain 
Marcy's trail between the mouth of the Little Witchita and Fort Washita to the general map, 
is 97° 08’, and this has been adopted. If the longitudes I have adopted for Fort Washita, 
Fort Arbukle, and the mouth of the Little Witchita are correct, Captain Marcy’s map of 
1852 contains a relative error between the two last points of 30’ of longitude. ` Captain 
Marcy, in his map of 1849, places the mouth of the Little Witchita in longitude 97° 25’, 
and in the one of 1852 in longitude 98° 30’. When at or near the head of the north fork of 
Red river, he made an excursion of about thirty miies direct to the Canadian river, striking it 
at the mouth of Sandy creek, where he marked a tree, in longitude 101° 55’, according to 
his map. Lieutenant Whipple’s exploring party, in 1853, did not know of this, and it is 
not positively certain that the creek, called by Lieutenant Whipple White Sandy creek, 


is that visited by Captain Marcy. If, however, it is the same, its longitude, according to - 


Lieutenant Whipple, is 101° 35’, being 20’ east of the position given it by Captain Marcy. 
This and other reasons lead me to think that Captain. Marcy’s map places the eastern front of 
the Llano Estacado and the sources of ‘the Red river at least 20’ too far west ; for, if Captain 
Marcy’s latitudes be assumed correct, as I have done, and his position of the source of the 
north fork of the Red river be plotted, it falls in the immediate valley of the Canadian, as 
determined hy Lieutenant Whipple, and only about ten miles from the main stream, instead of 
thirty, which Captain Marcy found to be the case. The only way to preserve this distance 
between the streams, without changing the latitudes, is to move the positions of Captain 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 101 


Marcy east to the amount of 20’. This, again, is the only way of making his survey of 
the North Fork agree with the position determined for it by Lieutenant Abert’s survey in 1845, 
as will be explained further on. 

I have therefore moved the sources of Red river 20’ east of Captain Marcy’s position, the 
mouth of the Little Witchita 30’ to the east, and, in order to subject his map to the least dis- 
tortion which the changes require, the camp at Otter Tail creek 25’ to the east, placing it in 
longitude 99° 35. By moving this point with the other parts of the map, I have been enabled 
to represent the routes of this expedition in nearly the same relative positions as on the original 
map. The errors I have supposed, for the purpose of representing this information, are within 
the limits of error of determination of longitude by the means employed. 

On Captain Marcy’s map of the sources of the Brazos and Big Witchita, made in 1854, Fort 
Belknap is placed in longitude 98° 47’; the mouth of Panther creek 100°; Large spring, near 
the Big Wachita, 98° 48’; on the general map these same points are, respectively, 98° 36’, 
99° 50’, 99° 35’. These are the only points I can recognize to be nearly common; although 
the last two are not certain, they go to show that the whole of the positions on the map are 
from 10’ to 12’ too far west, and that the different parts are relatively correct. As reduced on 
our map, the routes appear about 11 east of the geographical positions given on the original. 

The survey of the southern boundary of Kansas, by Lieut. Col. J. E. Johnston, in 1857, has 
been adopted on our map without any change, as it was made by means superior to those pos- 
sessed by any other surveyor or explorer whose lines are crossed by his. 

The survey of the road from Old Fort Osage, through to San Fernando de Taos, in 1825, 1826, 
and 1827, by J. C. Brown, C. E., has also been adopted as given by him with, the following 
modifications: This survey was made with chain and compass, corrected by astronomical 
observations, with a sextant for latitude. The longitudes were fixed by assuming, from the 
previous determinations of others, that Old Fort Osage was in longitude 93° 51’. According 
to the position I have assigned Fort Osage, it is in longitnde 94° 14’, requiring an addition of 
23’ of longitude to all points of the survey. The point on this route where the southern 
seedy of Kansas strikes the Cimarron, is determined on our map, by Colonel Johnston’s 

urvey, to bei in longitude 102° 10’. On Brown's map it is in longitude 101° 52’; showing that 
bi is work at ‘this point requires to be moved 18’ west. Brown’s survey between this point and 
Fort Osage is consequently adapted to the general map by shortening it 5! in longitude. 
West of this point, on the Cimarron, Brown’s map is nearly copied, all points being moved 18 
westward. Taos thus comes to be located i in longitude 105° 30’, which is nearly 10’ east of its 
position on Major Emory’s map. 

Major Emory’s determination of the longitude of Santa Fé (106° 04’ by lunar distances, see 
page 266 of his report of Mil. Recon.) is given on his map at 106° 02’. The Land Office con- 
nexions with the Mexican boundary survey and Lieut. Whipple’s determinations of Albuquerque 
agree; and applying this same connexion to Sant Fé, its longitude would be about 106° 02’, 
agreeing with Major Emory’s map. This longitude has been adopted. The position of Albu- 
querque and Isletta having been moved 6’ to the east-of Major Emory’s position, the portion of 
his map between these points and Santa Fé was shortened in longitude to this amount. The 

* In the summer following the date of this Memoir, the observations for the determination of the position of the 100th 
meridian have shown even a greater error in regard to Marcy's longitude of the mouth of Otter creek. 


102 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


longitude of the Copper Mines, as given on the Mexican boundary map, is 108° 06’; on Major 
Emory’s reconnaissance map it is 108? 12, This position has therefore been moved to the 
east just the amount which Lieut. Whipple moved Albuquerque. Major Emory’s reconnais- 
sance in 1846 has therefore been moved entire between these points 6'to the east, and thus 
reduced to the general map. West of Mount Graham the Gila river has been taken from the 
maps of the surveys under the Boundary Commission. ۱ 

Major Emory’s route in 1846, from the place where he struck the Santa Fé trail to Choteau’s 
island on the Arkansas, is nearly that of the road surveyed by Mr. Brown in 1825-26-21. 
The longitude and latitude of the mouth of Walnut creek and of Choteau’s island, and the 
survey of the river between them, being almost precisely the same. This position of Choteau’s 
island on our map, as obtained from Brown's survey in the manner explained, is about 19’ 
further west than that given by him, and 19’ further west than that given by Major Emory. 
In Major Emory’s report, (page 223,) his determination of longitude of Bent’s Old Fort, by 
seven observation of the distance of Aquile from the moon, is 102° 27’ 19.9", and by four 
observations for the distance of Spica, 103° 26’ 02"; mean of all, 102° 56’ 40". In the list of 
geographical positions given, (page 176 of his report,) this longitude is given 103° 01’, and it 
is so represented on the map. On Captain Frémont's map of routes in 1842— 43-44, the 
longitude of Bent’s Old Fort is given at 103° 45’, and the difference between it and the mouth 
of Fontaine qui Bouit creek, 1? 15’.. This last point, as determined by Captain Frémont in 
1845, is in longitude 104° 42’; subtracting this difference from it, places Bent’s Old Fort in 
longitude 103° 27’, (in the table of positions in his memoir it is given as 103° 33’ 20".) As 
this difference of longitude between the fort and the mouth of the Fontaine qui Bouit creek, 
a distance of about eighty miles, depends upon the topographical reconnaissance with estimated 
distances, it cannot be considered very exact, still its near coincidence to Major Emory's deter- 
mination by the moon's distance from Spica renders its correctness more probable. Taking 
now the map of Captain Gunnison's route up the Arkansas, as prepared by Mr. Egloffstein, 
we find he places Choteau island in 101? 21' being nearly the same as that on the general 
map, (1019 20’,) as obtained from Brown's survey. Captain’ Gunnison's map places the longi- 
tude of Bent’s Old Fort in longitude 103° 24’ 30”; and as the adoption of this saved any change 
in embodying this map, and does not differ materially from my deduction from Capt. Frémont 
and Major Emory's work, I have done so. 

In reducing Major Emory’s reconnoissance from Bent’s Fort to Santa Fé, it would seem that 
as the position of the fort has been moved west, while that of Santa Fé has remained the 
same, the position of the Raton Pass should also be moved to the west. I have, however, 
retained it as given by him: First, because the Spanish peaks, which must have been fixed in 
position by bearings along his route, were placed further east by Captain Gunnison than by 
Major Emory; and, second, because, by taking the position of the crossing of the Canadian as 
fixed by Brown’s survey, and connecting the Pass with it by Lieutenant Abert and Peck’s 
reconnaissance, it would also be necessary to move it to the east. Major Emory’s position for 
the Raton Pass has therefore been retained as being a mean of all the other requirements. 
Lieutenants Peck’s reconnaissance of the Cimarron route, as given on Major Emory’s map, 
makes the position of the “Point of Rocks” somewhat east of that obtained from Brown’s 
survey, which it has been made to conform with. : 

In reducing Lieutenant Abert and Peck's reconnaissance i* the odas in 1845, the trail 
between the Raton Pass and the Cimarron crossing of the Capadian, is made to correspond 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 103 


with the position of those points as already adopted, and this moves his position for the latter 
point 14’ to the east. His position for his camp of September 9, 1845, on the Canadian, is the 
same as on Lieutenant Whipple's map. His route in reducing had thus to be shortened 14’ in 
longitude between that point and the Cimarron crossing of the Canadian. 

Lieutenant Abert’s longitude of the point where he left the Canadian (as nearly as I can 
recognise it on Whipple’s map) seems to correspond, in position, with Lieutenant Whipple’s, 
as does also the crossing of the north fork of the Washita. They have therefore been adopted. 
Lieutenant Abert’s positions are retained as far east as Old Fort Edwards, at the mouth of 
Little river. 

Lieutenant Abert’s map of explorations in New Mexico, in 1846, has been reduced to the 
general map, by making the points of his trail correspond, in position, with those of the other 
explorers, reduced, as already stated, wherever they intersect. 

In Mr. R. H. Kern’s reconnaissance of the Pecos he assumed the longitude of Anton Chico 
to be 105° 25’. According to Lieutenant Whipple it is 105° 09’, being 16’ to the east of Mr. 
Kern's position, whose work has therefore been moved 16’ to the east for that portion of the 
Pecos below Anton Chico. 

The boundary of the country lying between the upper part of the Pecos and the Rio Grande 
having now been determined, the map of Lieutenant I. N. Moore was used to fill in the inter- 
vening space, his positions being made to conform to those previously adopted. 

The map of the survey of the boundary of the Creek country by Sitgreaves and Woodruff, and 
of the north fork of the Canadian, &c., has been reduced to the general map without any change. 

Major Long's map of his expedition to the Rocky mountains has been used for his route 
between the Arkansas and Canadian rivers. The point where he left the Arkansas I believe 
to be about halfway between the mouths of the Apishpa and Timpas creeks, in longitude 105? 
2'l', by the general map; on his map it is in longitude 103° 46'. We have therefore moved 
his trail between this point and the Canadian 19'to the east, which makes the mouth of the 
branch of the Canadian down which he travelled correspond to the mouth of one represented 
on Lieutenant Abert's map. The route of Major Bell (who conducted the detachment of 
Major Long's expedition along the Arkansas) is used to put in that stream between Walnut 
creek and Fort Gibson. 

The map of the reconnaissance of Captain Boone between the Arkansas and Canadian rivers 
has been reduced to re with m positions already determined wherever they are 
common to his routes. 

The reconnaissance of Lieutenant PUPA between Fort Gibson and the Santa Fé road to 
Independence, of Major Merrill between Fort Belknap and Council Grove, and of Captain 
Pope from the Cimarron to the Arkansas, have been reduced to our map, by making the 
points common to the explorations previously reduced to conform therewith. 

As before stated, the longitudes of all points along the west boundary of Missouri are deter- 
mined by reference to the land surveys, the longitude of them being determined by that of 
St. Louis. The longitude of Westport, the starting point of Captain Frémont’s first two expe- 
ditions, is thus determined to be 94° 37’, instead of 94° 22’, as adopted by him; that of Fort 
Leavenworth to be 94? 58', instead of 94? 44', as determined by Mr. Nicollect, and adopted 
by Major Emory and Captain Stansbury. Captain Frémont, in a note preceding the list of 
astronomical positions in his report of his second expedition, (page 321,) says: ‘‘ The course ot 
the ensuing expedition will intersect the line established by our previous operations at various 


104 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


points, which it is proposed to correct, in longitude, by lunar culminations, and such absolute 
observations as may be conveniently obtained. Such a position at the mouth of Fontaine qui 
Bouit, on the Arkarsas river, will be a good point of reference for the longitudes along the 
foot of the mountains. In passing by the Utah to the southern portion of the Great Salt lake, 
we shall have an opportunity to verify our longitudes in that quarter; and as, in the course of 
our exploration, we shall touch upon several points previously determined along the western 
limit of our recent journey, we shall probably be able to form a reasonably correct frame on 
which to base the construction of a general map of the country.’’ 

In Captain Frémont’s memoir and map on Oregon and Lower California will be found the 
astronomical results of this expedition from the mouth of Fontaine qui Bouit creek westward. 
No topographical explorer has since visited points along his routes with means capable of 
detecting any errors in his determinations, and they have been generally adopted. The mouth 
of Fontaine qui Bouit creek was placed on the first map in longitude 105°; on the second, 
according to moon culminations, in 104° 42’ 41". The longitude determined at Great Salt 
lake, and at Lassen’s farm on Deer creek, California, by moon culminations, confirmed his first 
determinations of positions in these regions as given on his previous map. The position for 
Lassen’s is only about 5’ too far east, as since determined. The correction which Captain 
Frémont found at Fontaine qui Bouit, viz: 17’ east, if used to correct the ‘‘longitudes along 
the foot of the mountains, as given on the map of explorations in 1842-43-44, would place 
St. Vrain’s Fort in longitude 104° 55’, and Fort Laramie in longitude 104° 30’, and this last 
agrees nearly with that adopted on Stansbury’s map.’’ (See note of Lieutenant Gunnison, 
page 302, Stansbury’s Report.) But Mr. Preuss, in constructing the map of 1848, puts Fort 
Laramie still further east, viz: in longitude 104° 25’, and St. Vrain’s Fort in longitude 104° 47’, 
moving these points further east, it seems to me, than the correction obtained at the mouth of 
Fontaine qui Bouit creek demanded. I have taken Fort Laramie in longitude 104° 30’,* and 
St. Vrain’s Fort in longitude 104° 55’. Captain Frémont’s route, in 1843, from St. Vrain’s 
Fort west to his station of September 13, on Bear river, had to be elongated from what it is 
represented on the map of 1844, and shortened from what it is on the one of 1848. I retained 
the position of the crossing of the north of the Platte (longitude 107° 10’) as given on the map 
of 1848, Lieutenant Gunnison having adopted it in constructing Stansbury’s map. This is 
nearly the position it would have by distributing the correction which I have applied to St. 
Vrain’s Fort between that point and Frémont’s station of September 13, 1843. This station of 
September 13, depends for its longitude on an occultation of t Arietes, and to it all the points 
of the route along Snake river, and the Columbia as far as the Dalles, are referred by chrono- 
metric differences. Captain Frémont’s routes south of Lieutenant Beckwith’s trail, in Utah, 
have all been reduced to our map as given on his map of 1848, his position for the point where 
the Santa Fé trail leaves the Mojave agreeing with the best recent determinations. In putting 
down Captain Frémont’s route from Bent’s Old Fort east along the Smoky Hill Fork of the 
Kansas, as given on his map of routes in 1842, 1843, and 1844, I have moved his position of 
Bent’s Old Fort from 103° 45’ to 103° 24’ 30”, and of the point where he struck the Santa Fé 
road from 96° 58’ to 97° 12’, thus shortening this portion of his route by 34 in longitude. St. 
Vrain’s Fort having been moved 17’ east, and the mouth of the Republican Fork 14’ west, 
(Fort Riley from 96° 30 to 96° 44’,) the intervening portion of his route, via the Republican 
Fork, was 31’ shorter in longitude than represented on his map of routes 1843~ 44. 

* Bight nights’ observations made by me in 1857 with a 26-inch transit, on moon culminations, gave for the result 
104° 30’ 36”, 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 105 


The Kansas river, as far west as Fort Riley, has been reduced from the Land Office surveys. 
Captain Gunnison’s survey for a railroad route has, therefore, not been used east of that point. 
His map, as constructed by Mr. Egloffstein, places Fort Riley in longitude 96° 50’, being 6’ 
too far west, and of the mouth of Walnut creek 98° 49’, instead of 98° 42’. The work between 
these two points has been moved 6 to the west. From Walnut creek to Choteau island 
Brown’s survey was used in the compilation, and from that point (which coincides in position 
with that from Captain Gunnison’s survey) westward, the maps prepared by Mr. Egloffstein 
from Captains Gunnison and Beckwith’s surveys, have been exactly copied, except for the 
position of Fort Reading, which was assumed by Mr. Egloffstein as 1’ 42" eastward of Colonel 
Frémont’s location, or about 6’ too far east. This error in Captain Beckwith’s map was 
distributed through his work in the Sierra Nevada. 

Captain Stansbury’s routes have all been copied on our map nearly as given by him west of 
the meridian of Fort Laramie, subject only to such slight changes as Captain Beckwith’s and 
Lieutenant Bryan’s surveys showed to be necessary. He, however, adopted from Mr. Nicollet 
the longitude of Fort Leavenworth, (94° 45’,) instead of 94° 58’, which required his route to 
be shortened 13’ between this fort and Fort Laramie. Fort Kearny had thus to be moved 
8’ west of its position on Captain Stansbury’s map, that is, from 98° 58’ to 99° 06’. The 
chain and compass survey made between Fort Kearny and Omaha by Captain Dickerson, in 
1856, showed the difference of longitude between them to be very nearly the same as I had 
adopted, the longitude of Omaha being determined by the Land Office surveys, as before 
explained.* Lieutenant Bryan, on his map of explorations to Bridger’s Pass, adopted the 
position of Fort Kearny as given by Captain Stansbury, although he changed Fort Leaven- 
worth, upon which Captain Stansbury’s determination depended by his compass survey, no 
astronomical observations having been made for its longitude. The longitude of the mouth of 
the Platte being determined from the Land Office surveys, this stream has been laid down from 
Colonel Frémont’s and Captain Stansbury’s maps to conform to the longitudes of the points I 
have enumerated. 

The mouth of the Big Sioux, according to the Land Office surveys, referred to the meridians 
determined s as s already described, is about 12’ west of what it is as given by Mr. Nicollet. The 
io Lake Jessie, according to Governor Stevens’ map, is also 12’ west of Mr. Nicollet's 
ote - ination 2 ed Mr. Nicollet's work is uniformly from 19 to 15' too far east along the 
wher ked, I have thought it best to move it entire from the mouth of the 
Big Sioux to Fort feu and thence to Devil's lake, 12’ to the west; Fort Pierre then becomes 
in longitude 100° 243’, instead of 100° 1284. — 

The longitude of the mouth of the St. Peter’s river having been adopted from Mr. Nicollet, 
and the route to Devil’s lake having been moved 12’ west, Mr. Nicollet’s routes between 
the meridians through these points have so been put down as to proportion this difference 
throughout. 

In my map of ‘‘ Reconnaissance in the Dacota country," I assumed the positions adopted on 
the general map. In my explorations on the Missouri and Yellowstone, in 1856, I determined 
the longitude of Fort Union, by two sets of moon culminating stars, to be 1049 02' 077", cor- 
responding nearly with that adopted by Governor Stevens. The Missouri river has been put 

? The difference of longitude between Fort Kearny and Nebraska city, by the Land Office surveys made in 1858, confirms 
the position I have adopted. 

14 


106 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


in from my map from the mouth of the Big Muddy to the Big Nemeha.* Below that it is 
taken from the Land Office surveys. From the Big Muddy to Fort Benton it is from reconnais- 
sances made under Governor Stevens. | 

On Governor Stevens’ explorations in 1853, no observations were made for longitude. The 
route was determined by compass courses and odometer distances, checked by observations for 
latitude between the mouth of the St. Peter's river and Fort Walla-Walla. The longitude of 
Fort Walla-Walla, according to Colonel Frémont, is 118? 32', but he made no astronomical 
observations at this point. According to Captain Wilkes it is 118° 47’ 45". The means by 
which this was obtained will be found in the following letter, which Captain Wilkes was 
kind enough to send me in answer to certain inquiries. His determination, as "AB in his 
letter to me, was X dus 


WASHINGTON CITY, July 5, 1854. 

Dear Sir: Your letter of June 29 would have been answered sooner if I could have found 
the observation by which the position of Walla-Walla was determined. 

The position I assign to it is, latitude 46? 02' 48" north; longitude 118? av 45" west. 
The result of three days' observation deduced from ان فة‎ ; these were made by Lieu- 
tenant Johnson, of the expedition, who had charge of the party, and were calculated out 
under my own examination of the notes. The position was also determined by bearing or 
angles on three mountain peaks,t which gave a very near accordance in the result. I have 
always felt great confidence in the result. I gave them at the time a very careful examination, 
and think Lieutenant Johnson made them under favorable circumstances. Mr. Drayton, who 
also visited Walla-Walla on the survey of the river up to that point, agrees in his determina- 
tion with Lieutenant Johnson at this p their observations were intended to serve as 
checks upon each other. 

I am, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 
CHARLES WILKES. 

Lieutenant G. K. ee 

l Engineers, Washington. 


The و ن را‎ of Captain Wilkes was also adopted by Mr. Lambert, (Governor Stevens’ 
topographer,) who constructed his map in this office. He says of the route of the main line of 
Governor Stevens’ survey, in his report on topography, (Pacific Railroad Surveys, quarto 
edition, 1st volume, page 176, Governor Steven’s Report): ‘‘It is satisfactory to know that 
the survey, as it was first plotted, independent of correction by astronomical points, but con- 
nected by those of Captain Wilkes and Professor Nicollet, was only ten miles in error, being 
in excess." As far west as Walla-Walla, Governor Stevens' route, as mapped, is, therefore, 
copied on the general map; but west of this, along the Columbia, it has been subjected to 
some modifications by the Land Office surveys and the reconnaissance by Lieutenants Williamson 
and Abbot, in 1855. 

The Yellowstone river, as far up as the mouth of "Powder river, was token from my recon- 
naissance in 1856. Powder river is the same as the Warharsa on Lewis and Clarke's map. 
Any one will, I think, be convinced, who examines the maps. and reads Lieutenant Mullan’ s 

* My transit observations at Fort Sandali in 1857, show the position of the fort, as ۰ thus laid down, (longitude 98° 
36’,) to be nearly correct. €— 


+ This required Captain Frémont's reconnaissance along Snake eer to be elongated to the amount of 16/ between Fort 
Walla-Walla and Fort Hall. 


———Ó‏ زو سوبس کے 


METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 107 


description of the Muscle Shell river in Governor Stevens’ report, and Captain Clarke’s descrip- 
tion of the Yellowstone in Chapter 33 of ‘‘ Lewis and Clarke’s Travels," that they are the same 
river, and also that the branch up which Lieutenant Mullan travelled when he left the Yellow- 
stone, is the one Captain Clarke calls Shield's river. I have so taken them.* The route 
of Captain Clarke from the source of the Jefferson Fork of the Missouri to the Yellowstone and 
down the latter, has been put in so as to conform to the points of his route تست‎ by 
Lieutenant Mullan’s and my own reconnaissances. 

The survey of Captain Reno, from Big Sioux river to Mendota, was reduced so as to conform 
to the Land Office work. The reconnaissance of Captain Sully, in 1855, from Fort Ridgely to 
Fort Pierre, was made to conform to the positions obtained from Mr. Nicollet. 

Captain Pope adopted Major Long’s position of the Pembina settlement on the Red River of 
the North, but he moved the position of the junction of the Red river and the Bois des Sioux 
about 12 to the east of it... Governor Stevens and Captain Simpson’s surveys indicate that 
Captain Pope’s work, between the Red river and the Mississippi, is crowded by at least 12’ more 
than it should be. I have therefore retained Major Long’s position of Red river and of his 
route to Lake Winnepeg, and thence to Lake Superior. Captain Pope's map was reduced so as 
to make his route agree in longitude with that of Major Long wherever they erossed.t From Mr. 
Nicollet's map has been taken the sources of the Mississippi, and the lakes, &c., between it 
and the Crow Wing river; which latter was taken from Captain Simpson's survey. The posi- 
tion of many of the lakes given by Mr. Nicollet in this neighborhood must have been derived 
in some uncertain way from the Indians, as many of them cannot now be recognized. The 
attempt has been made to retain for these lakes the names of the eminent scientific men with 
which he adorned the map of this region; but it is probable that, as the country becomes 
inhabited by white men, these names will have to be replaced on our maps by the more common 
ones of the country. Mr. Nicollet's map (I know not on what grounds) put Red lake consider- 
ably to the west of the position given it by Major Long; but the latter I have adopted, as 
recent examinations show it to be more probably correct. 

The boundary between the United States and British Possession has been taken from the 
maps of the surveys of the Northwestern Boundary Commission, from Lake Superior to Rainy 
1۵9 ee 

Xi uto. Abbot's Pacific railroad maps of Oregon and Northern California I have adopted 
exactly as prepared by him. 

Fort Vancouver was placed by Wilkes in longitude 123° 193'; and this was adopted by Capt. 
Frémont on his map of 1848. In Frémont's map of 184243 and '44, the longitude of this 
point is taken at 122? 413’. Captain McClellan adopted 122° 193' on his map of explorations 
in the Cascade mountains. Mr. Lambert, on making Governor Stevens’ map, took it 122° 40’. 
But the Land Office surveys, in connexion with the Coast Survey, show the longitude of Fort 
Vancouver to be 122° 323’, which we have adopted. This position is near a mean between 
that first given it by Captain Frémont and that by Captain Wilkes. Lieutenant Abbot’s posi- 
tion for the Dalles is 120° 58. Governor Stevens’ map has it 120° 53’, which is the same as 
on Wilkes’ and Frémont’s maps. Lieutenant Abbot places the Cascades in about longitude 
121° 42’; Frémont, 121° 36’; Wilkes, 121° 57’; which last was adopted by McClellan and 

* See foot note to page 68 of this Report for a discussion of this subject. 

+ This portion of the map, as first reduced and engraved, is erroneous in moving tlie whole of Red river to the west 12' to 
accord with Governor Stevens’ work. This would have been accomplished by adopting Major Long’s work as above. 


108 METHOD OF COMPILING THE MAP. 


Stevens. Lieutenant Abbot’s observations place Mount Adams in latitude 46° 12’, longitude 
121° 19’, (being 2’ south and 15’ west of its position on Captain McClellan’s map ;) Mount St. 
Helen’s in latitude 46° 112’, and longitude 122° 5’, (being 10’ south and 4’ west of Captain 
McClellan’s determination.) Both Wilkes and Frémont confounded these peaks. A note on 
Lieutenant Abbot’s Oregon map shows that, by his compass bearings, Captain McClellan placed 
Mount Rainier about 15’ too far east, Capt. M. placing it in longitude 121° 25’, and Nachess 
Pass in longitude 121° 25’. 

Lieutenant Arnold’s survey, in 1854, through the Nachess Pass, after correcting his longi- 
tude of Walla-Walla, (which he took at 118° 55’, or 8’ too far west,) places the summit of the 
Nachess Pass in longitude 121° 09’; Mount Rainier he puts in longitude 121° 25’, probably 
taking it from Captain McClellan. Lieutenant Arnold’s position of the Nachess Pass is some 
6’ north of that on Captain McClellan’s map, and differs also in being 16’ in longitude to the 
east. To represent Lieutenant Arnold’s survey would require much of Captain McClellan’s 
work to be changed; but as the latter had already been engraved before the former was received, 
it was not possible to make the change for the first edition of the general map. The additional 
examinations now being made in this neighborhood will require much of the Cascade range of 
mountains in Washington Territory to be re-engraved. 

The numerous small reconnaissances not mentioned in this explanation of the manner of com- 
piling the general map, have all been reduced to it according to the geographical positions 
determined by the other reconnaissances and surveys, the compilation of which I have dis- 
cussed. 

I conclude this chapter by giving a list of the principal points of the jaie with their 
longitudes, according to the best determinations and comparisons. 


PRINCIPAL DETERMINATION OF LONGITUDE USED. 


List of principal positions used in compiling the map and their adopted longitudes. 


Place. 


Longitude. 


Authority. 


Point Seul-choix, Lake Michigan i yi 


Mouth of — Weiss (pilot-house) 


New Orleans C 


St T T 1 i 


Fourth Principal Meridian, in Wisconsin 


Fourth Principal Meridian, mouth of Illinois river ا‎ 
Fifth Principal Meridian, in Missuri.. 


Sixth Principal Meridian, in latitude 369 30’ 


j—— in latitude of New Orleans ............. 


Month of St. 


Cape Nut, mouth of Sabine river Sameer ene co" ———A— —— 0| 


Mouth of Big Sioux river 
Preston 


Fort Riley 


Pembina 


Fort Arbuckle 
San Antonio 


Fort Belknap 


Bent's New Fort, (Big Timbers, Arkansas river) 


Date Old 77 09۳ موی‎ —M— مه نج نز‎ ——— "immo momo 


Nealawa 


Albuquerque 
Copper Mines 
Camp near mouth of Bear river 
Camp near Great Salt lake 

San Bernardino meridian 

San Pedro 


Fort Walla-Walla 


Dalles of the Columbia 


104 02 07 


ی 


Captain J. N. Macomb, T. E. 
Captain A. Talcott, Eng. 
Nicollet, (see Report.) 
Nicollet. 


Major Long and Mr. Nicollet. 
Major J. D. Graham, T. E. 


Lieutenant I. C. Woodruff, T. E. 


Colonel J. E. Johnston, T. E. 


Captain J. Pope, T, E, 9 
Lieutenant G. K. Warren, T. E. 


—_ C. Frémont, T. E. 


| Major W. H. Emory T. E. 
Mexican Boundary 


Lieutenant A. W. Whipple, T. E. 
Mexican Boundary Commission. 
Captain J. C. Frémont, T. E. 
Captain J. C. Frémont, T. E. 


Coast Survey. 
Commander Wilkes, U. 8. N. 
Lieutenant H. L. Abbot, T. E. 


۶ A more recent determination of Captain Pope makes it 104° 03’ 56". 


109 


CHAPTER VI, 


GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPHY OF THE MOUNTAIN REGION 
WEST OF THE MISSISSIPPI. 


THE mountains in our territory west of the Mississippi river, from where they rise above 
the horizontal strata of recent geological formations on the east to their disappearance under 
the waters of the Pacific Ocean, form a nearly continuous mass of upheaved ridges, with 
occasional intervening level plateaus. The direction of the central line of this mass between 
the 32d and 49th parallels of north latitude, is about north 20° west. The greatest width 
perpendicular to this direction is along the line passing from the vicinity of San Francisco 
through that of the Great Salt Lake to Fort Laramie. This distance is about 1,000 miles, or, 
if we include the Black Hills of Nebraska, 1,125 miles. 

The great mountain mass, of which that in our territory forms but a part, aninda with 
varying breadth nearly on the line of a great circle of the globe from Cape Horn north to 
Behring Straits, and thence south along the western part of Asia to the island of Sumatra. 
Its length is about 240 degrees, or 18,560 miles, being two-thirds of the circumference of 
the earth. 

The area occupied by and included in this mountain mass in our territory, is about 980,000 
square-miles. Large as this is, it is probably only a small portion of the upheaved formations 
between the 32d and 49th parallels. A few ridges and peaks projecting above the surface of 
the Pacific as islands, or above the level tertiary and cretaceous strata of the eastern plains, 
give evidence of the existence of vast areas whose extent must forever remain unknown. 
Throughout the portions now visible, proofs are abundant of great abrasions; in some cases 
whole ridges even, having been swept away or broken into separate portions. 

Already enough has been learned to establish the existence in these mountains of the equiva- 
lents of many of the geological formations; and it is probable, when investigations have been 
carried to the same extent as in the civilized portions of the earth, that the geologist will 
find here new and still more complex fields for research. 

"The classification of the separate parts of this mountain mass, so as to present its physical 
characteristics clearly to the mind, is a great desideratum. It has in part been attempted at 
various times, but as yet unsuccessfully from the want of sufficient information; the theorist’s 
idea being often proved to be wrong by new discoveries almost as soon as uttered. 

In this immense field, many years of patient labor are yet necessary before any. تمس‎ 
classification of these mountains on geological principles can be made, even if it ever be in the 
power of human research and understanding. The practical wants of the geographer, of 
the meteorologist, and of the engineer, will not permit of this delay; and numerous general 
descriptions and theories to supply the want of facts have been attempted by them for the 
purpose of more clearly explaining their views. In this way mountain ridges have sometimes 
been improvised for the occasion, and the want of facts supplied by ‘‘ generalizations and ideal 


GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPHY. 111 


connexions." Confusion and error have thus resulted, rendering much study necessary to 
separate the ascertained from the assumed. 

To free the general map as much as possible from this objection, I have, according to my 
instructions, represented on it only such mountains as are known. In some instances where 
the exploration of known ranges was imperfect, they have been but faintly engraved, and the 
word ‘‘unexplored’’ placed near them. This is the case with the Big Horn mountains, the 
Sierra la Plata, and the Blue mountains. In other places, where no explanations have been 
made, spaces are left blank, as in the southern portion of the Great Basin. A serious difficulty 
is experienced in giving a correct graphic representation of level regions furrowed by the 
chasms of large rivers, like the Colorado, because these depressions have, except upon close 
scrutiny, nearly the same effect to the eye as mountain ridges. 

_ The collection of ascertained facts represented on this map far exceeds that of any former 
one of this region. I shall not attempt any description or enumeration of the different parts, 
the map itself being an exhibition, perhaps more full and intelligible than any that could be 
putin words. To prevent the map from exhibiting any bias which my own views may have taken, 
I have copied as nearly as possible the styles of different topographers on the original maps, and 
thus some parts may have peculiarities which belong more to the delineator than to the 


country itself. ۱ 

The publication of the Pacific Railroad maps will probably change some of the former ideas 
of these mountains, and give rise to new speculations as to their directions, equivalents, and 
connexions of different parts. Every one knows how easy it is to generalize ideas where facts 
are few, and in accordance with this, those who have travelled most in the region have 
theorized the least, having seen the immensity of the subject and the difficulties which must 
be overcome to-comprehend it. Those who have investigated merely the travels of others, 
have had only the imperfect representations of the latter on which to theorize. 

It may not be inappropriate here to give some of the general ideas which have successively 
prevailed in regard to these mountains. 

In the earlier periods of North American discovery it was known that there were mountains 
in the interior at its northern and southern parts, and rivers flowing from them to;the two 
great oceans east and west. It was natural to connect these mountains by hypothesis, and to 
consider them as one great chain, separating the sources of these streams. Such an idea 
prevailed at the time of Humboldt’s New Spain. Even now many well informed persons 
consider that a road has but one. mountain summit in n the Mississippi river to the 
Pacific Ocean. : 

When, after the publitatiót of the dicte of Sutter: map makers became aware of the 
extent of the mountains near the Pacific coast, nothing seemed more natural than to suppose 
two great mountain chains—one near the Pacific and one in the interior. If this theory were 
true, we should find a great longitudinal valley between the ranges similar to that separating 
the interior mountains from the Alleghanies, aud we should have but two mountain summits to 
pass between the Mississippi and the Pacific. This idea is practically as erroneous as that of 
one summit, although it still prevails. Such a prominent place did this longitudinal valley 
hold, in the opinions of geographers of earlier times, that we find in Humboldt’s New Spain : 
‘‘M. Malte Brun has started important doubts concerning the identity of the Tacouche Tesse 
and the river Columbia. He even presumes that the former discharges itself into the Gulf of 
California : a bold supposition, which would give the Tacouche Tesse a course of an enormous 


112 ۱ GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPHY. 


length. It must be allowed that all that part of the west of North America is still but very 
imperfectly known.’ 

The explorations of Lewis and Clarke proved that the Tacouche Teche did not empty into 
the Gulf of California, and that it was probably the source of the Columbia. Without con- 
sidering the character of the pass of the Columbia river through the Cascade range, the belief 
now became general that the overland route in this latitude crossed but one summit, and was 
therefore more favorable than any other. This erroneous idea, with some, still prevails. 

The idea of rivers traversing great mountain chains, now known to be so common in the 
mountains west of the Mississippi, was so repugnant to the opinions of even philosophers in 
earlier times, that we find Humboldt saying, ‘‘every geographer who carefully compares 
Mackenzie’s map with Vancouver’s will be astonished that the Columbia, in descending from 
the Stony mountains, which we cannot help considering as a prolongation of the Andes of 
Mexico, should traverse the chains of mountains which approach the shore of the great ocean, 
whose principal summits are Mount St. Helen and Mount Rainier.’’ 

In reference to the supplying a want of facts by theories, Humboldt makes the following 
remarks: ‘‘It is a false application of the principles of hydrography when geographers 
attempt to determine the chains of mountains in countries of which they suppose they know 
the course of rivers. They suppose that two great basins of water can only be separated by 
great elevations, or that a considerable river can only change its direction where a group of 
mountains opposes its course ; they forget that frequently, either on account of the nature of 
the rocks, or on account of the inclination of the strata, the most elevated levels give rise to 
no river, while the sources of the most considerable rivers are distant from the high chains of 
mountains. Hence the attempts which have been hitherto made to construct maps from 
theoretical ideas have never been very successful. For the true configuration of the earth is 
so much the more difficult to be discovered, as the pelagic currents, and the greater number 
of the rivers, which have changed the surface of the globe, have totally disappeared. The 
most perfect acquaintance with those which have existed, and those which actually exist in our 
day, might instruct us as to the slope of the valleys, but by no means as to the absolute height 
of the mountains, or the position of their chains.’’ 

The distinguished explorers, Lewis and Clarke, having determined that the Columbia river 
broke through the Cascade range, considered, from the size of the Willamette at its mouth, 
that it also broke through this chain, having its source in the Rocky mountains, near the posi- 
tion of Great Salt lake. We then see the American maps representing mountains surrounding 
the valleys of the Columbia and Colorado, and separating them from that of the San Joaquin 
and Sacramento. On the English maps of that date, the Sierra Nevada is not represented, and 
two or three great rivers are made to flow from large lakes in the interior to the Pacific; 
nearly all of their — making false ee of the pang of ire laid 
down by Humboldt. 

The first map which ESOS these rivers and lakes sorea was that of کب‎ Bonne- 
ville, of which I have given a reduced copy. There we see the Great Salt lake and Bear 
river and Utah lake forming one pasin; to the west lies the Mary or Ogden’s river, with its 
lakes forming another enclosed basin; the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers in their right | 
position; and the Willamette reduced to its proper length. The positions given on this map 
are not geographically correct, nor are their many mountains indicated ; but it gives the first 


GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPHY. 113 


correct idea of the hydrographic character of the country; and by giving too little rather than 
too much, escapes the errors into which others had fallen. 

The explorations of Captain Frémont fixed these great rivers and basins in their proper 
geographical positions; but his maps have given rise to many erroneous impressions in regard 
to the mountain ranges. Still, making a ‘‘false application of the principles of hydrography,” 
he represented all the basins as if surrounded with mountains or ‘‘rims,’’ and thus introduced 
mountain chains which have no existence in nature. | 

Since Frémont’s expedition began, a large portion of the area of these mountains in the 
territory of the United States has been examined, and many new attempts have been made to 
systematize the knowledge acquired. The most important theory advanced is that of parallel- 
ism in the ranges, the foundation of which I shall briefly indicate. 

On the map of Lewis and Clarke the Rocky mountain ranges are represented parallel to each 
other with a northwest trend. That this was their theory is evident, from the fact that they 
indicated the Black Hills about the source of the Shyenne ashaving this same trend, though 
they never saw them, and only knew of their existence from hearsay. | 

The maps of Captain Frémont showed a parallelism and general north and south direction of 
the mountain ranges from the Wasatch, east of the Salt Lake, to the Sierra Nevada, NL 
all the numerous intermediate ranges. 

The maps made by Major Emory, near the 32d parallel, and in New Mexico, showed again a 
remarkable parallelism of the mountain ridges, those in this latitude having a northwest trend 
nearly parallel to the Rocky mountains, as shown by Lewis and Clarke. 

The maps of Lieutenants Abert and Peck, of Lieutenant Simpson, of Lieutenant Beckwith, 
Lieutenant Williamson, and Lieutenant Parke, have all shown a local parallelism to exist in 
different parts of the mountains. The systems of ridges have courses varying from a few degrees 
north of east to north 459 west. 

The idea has lately begun to prevail that this local parallelism is the characteristic of the 
great mountain mass throughout its whole extent. Whether this idea has been true or not it 
has been attended with some practical advantages. Instead of one or two main summits for an 
. overland road to pass, it shows us that we must expect many. On every route explored across 
the continent, atleast four well-defined summits have been discovered, and on some of them 
many more. Some of these ridges enclose interior hydrographic basins. Others are traversed 
by rivers, but the passes thus made are generally ی‎ and, for the purposes of travel, 
might almost as well never have existed. - 

In many places, however, the mountain ridges RE ee this local parallelism, of d | a 
few instances will be cited. The Uintah mountains, east of the Great Salt Lake, trend nearly 
east and west; the Wind River mountains about north 45° west; and the Humboldt range about 
north 20° east; these three ranges being comparatively near to each other. 

Humboldt, in speaking of the Sierra Nevada, says, ‘‘it soon separates into three branches.” 

Lieutenant Abbot, in the Sixth Volume of the Pacific Railroad Reports, says : ‘‘Shasta Butte, 
although generally considered a peak of the western chain of the Sierra Nevada, is, in truth, 
the great centre from which radiate, beside several smaller ridges, the Cascade range, the 
Coast range, and the western chain of the Sierra Nevada.’’ 

There are many other portions of this mountain region from which the ridges seem to radiate. 
Such as Long’s Peak, the junction of the Sierra Nevada, and Coast ranges in Southern California, 
&c., as is evident on an inspection of the map. The parallel system of ridges has been con- 

15 


zl 


114 GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPHY. 


sidered a matter of importance, as being in accordance with some supposed laws of mountain 
formation, but that of centres of upheaval are not less consistent with those laws. At any rate 
it does not appear that we are at liberty to assume a parallelism of ridges till examination has 
shown this to be the case. 

As many of the lines of explorations in the mountains have been conducted along lines run- 
ning east and west, leaving unexplored spaces between them, much ingenuity and skill has 
been bestowed in attempting to determine the continuations of ranges between the routes. 
Leaving out of view the fact that they may not be continuous, the effort has been made to 
determine the continuity by prolonging their directions. This assumes a degree of accuracy 
in the relative geographical position of the supposed parts which they may not have. There 
is generally too little known of the mineral constituents of each portion to settle the question 
on geological principles. The result of these arrangements have therefore been of little utility, 
while they have confused the nomenclature by extending local names beyond their proper 
limits. Of this confusion the Sierra Madre is a striking example, as will appear from the fol- 
lowing quotations : 

Humboldt, in his work on New Spain, says: ‘To the north of the 19th parallel of north lati- 
tude, near the celebrated mines of Zimapam and Doctor, the Cordillera takes the name of Sierra 
Madre; it runs to the northwest, towards the towns of San Miguel el Grande and Guanaxuata. 
To the north of this last city the Sierra Madre assumes an extraordinary width. It soon 
separates into three branches, of which the easternmost loses itself in Leon; the western branch 
extends northwesterly towards the Gila, through Sonora. The third T of the Sierra 
Madre, which may be looked upon as the central chain of the Mexican Andes, occupies the 
whole of Zacatecas. It may be traced to the Sierra de los Mimbres; thence it crosses New 
Mexico, and joins the Crane mountains and Sierra Verd. It is the crest of this central branch 
of the Sierra Madre that divides the waters of the Pacific Ocean from those of the Gulf of 
Mexico. It is the continuation of this which Fidler and the intrepid Mackenzie examined 
from the 50th to the 55th parallel of north latitude.” 

Mr. Albert Gallatin writes, in a communication to Lieutenant Emory, (Ex. Doc. 41, Ist 
session 30th Congress: “I use the word Sierra Madre in the sense attached to it by the 
Mexicans, viz: that ridge which separates the waters that fall into the Atlantic from those that 
empty into the Pacific, without reference to its elevation.” 

Lieutenant Simpson, in his report of his expedition to the Navajo country, says, in speaking 
of the Sierra de los Mimbres or Sierra Madre: ‘‘ Our exploration shows that, instead of its exhib- 
iting, in transverse section, the sharp angles of the primary mountains, or the flat table-shaped 
aspect of the mesa formation, it presents more strictly the outline of a formation"! in — 
“the country intervening between the far distant escarpments"! is **considerably convex.’ 

: Mr. Froebel, in his report published by the Smithsonian Institution in 1854: “I come now 
to speak of the Sierra Madre. This denomination has been the cause of many geographical 
misunderstandings and misconstructions. .It has been understood as a real proper name, while 
it is but an appellative meaning the mother chain of mountains, û. e., the principal chain of a 
country in general, just as the Mexicans call Acequia Madre the pind pal channel of a system 
of irrigation. Thus the name may occur in different localities without thereby authorizing 
geographers to conclude that all the mountain chains which have received that denomination 
belong to one and the same system. It may therefore really be, as some maps haye it—I do not 
know from what source—that a certain chain east of Durango, belonging to the line of ridges 


GENERAL REMARKS ON THE TOPOGRAPRY. 115 


which passes over from Texas to Mexico, is known under the name of Sierra Madre. It is 
certain, and every one who has travelled across Mexico in that latitude knows it, that the 
Sierra Madre, in the sense generally adopted in that country, is not east, but is west of Durango, 
and is passed by the road from that city to Mazatlan. Of a mountain chain in New Mexico 
called Sierra Madre, and pretended to be situated on the western side of the Rio Grande, I 
have never heard. But if the name should occur there, too, as some, maps likewise have it, 
I am almost sure that it has only been used by some Mexican theorist, who wanted to convey 
a general idea of the geography of the country according to his own fancy." 

Mr. Froebel traces his Sierra Madre northwest, towards the Gila, and finally unites it with 
the Coast mountains of the Pacific; or, to use his own words: '* Thus the extreme northwestern 
spur of the Sierra Madre constitutes what has been called by geologists the San Bernardino 
range, but has been known to the old Californians under the name of Sierra Madre, as I have 
already stated. If, therefore, the Sierra Madre has a northern equivalent, we have to look for 
it, not in the Rocky mountains, but in the Sierra Nevada system.’ 

In Major Emory's Report on the Mexican Boundary Surveys, page 40, he says: ‘‘The idea 
conveyed by the name Sierra Madre is very generally adopted by the Mexicans, yet I doubt 
very much if any continuous range or chain of mountains can be found which separates the 
waters flowing into the Pacific from those flowing into the Atlantic. I am also quite well 
satisfied that the mountains known as Sierra Madre, in New Mexico, are not the same range as 
those known by that name in Chihuahua and Sonora, and that both are distinct from the range 
west and south of Monterey of the same name.’ ۱ 

We see from these extracts that there are two principal meanings attached to the words 
Sierra Madre—one is a “dividing line?" between the two great water-sheds of the continent, 
the other a mountain range. In this last sense it has been applied to so many different ranges 
that, to include them all, it must be considered a general name for the entire mountain system 
west of the Mississippi. 

An exhibition of the efforts which have been made to extend and generalize the name Rocky 
mountains, &c., would be attended with similar results. I have therefore disregarded all these 
generalizations on the general map, by giving to the mountains only their local names. 


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ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


a C. 
Abbott, H. L. 81 RSLS ----32, 39, 49, 51, 55, 56, 76, 77, 78, 79 
Abert, J. W 50,52,53 | California 80, 81, 86 
Adjutant General's Office 15 | California, Gulf of 27 
en, J 28,43 | Campbell, Archibald 90 
American trappers 35 | Campbell, A. H 76,80 
Amory, J. C. 88 | Campbell, TT, 84, 85 
Arkansas river.......20, 21, 24,47, 49, 50, 53,54, 64, 74,88 | Campbell, Robert 35, 36 
£ 88,89 | Canadian river............ eu اه جات‎ 25, 52, 56, 65, 77 
Arnold, R 69,73 rrey, P 87 
Arizona 79,84 | Carlton, Major 88 
? Aztecs ~ 35 | Carver, Jonathan 18, 29 
e maentalnd. ices e e isas 70,71, 78,82, 86 
B. Cass, General Lewis, expedition of 29 
Bache, Major H 86 | Catlin 37 
Baker, L. S 74 | Chandler, M. T. W- 84 
Balch, G. T. 87 | Chapin, G 85 
Baldwin, Dr 23 | Cimarron river 27, 37,43, 54 
Bartlett, J. R 83 , 1. H 84, 85, 91 
e, E. Pesce 91 | Olarko ۵ Fork..eeecesesexeizuiae مات که ند قاطا‎ won sa 99 10, 41 
Beale and Heap 75 | Clatsop, Fort .... ۱ 18 
Bear river : 32, 58, 59 t 53, 78, 80, 82 
Beckwith, E. 4 73,74,75 | Coast Survey 15 
ll, J. R Colhoun, J. 0 25 
Benton, Colonel 34 | Colorado Chiquito .... 64, 
Sent ws Fort, pohoi o... lll. ۱02 ۰۱ Colorado of the West... 21, 30, 38, 53, 64, 77 
Bestor, ۲ i 53 | Columbia river, 18, 27, 29, 33, 38, 39, 48, 59, 70, 71, 72, 82, 85 
Biddle, Major 23 EE O BOE 54 
Bigelow, J. M........ 76 | Cooke, P. St. G., (‘Scenes and Adven.")........ 52 
Big Horn mountains. ........ er D e. 39, 36, 38 | Coochetope Pass 74 
g 32 | Cooper, J. G 70 
Big Si " i ۳ i 44 Cooper, S. M. 88,89 
Bitter Root tai ری‎ 18 | Cox, Ross ۳ 
Ritter Root river ا‎ Creutzfeldt 14 
ack HIRT ---..19,25,36,59,89 | Crook, G 81 
Blake, J. E Cross, A 85 
lake, W. P. 7 Cross, O 59 
Blue mountains 32,73 | Custer, H. ۱ 19 
Blue river 80 
e, Captain N., expedition 43 D. 
Bonneville, B. L. E 31,32 | Dakota 
Bonneville, Lake Derby, G. H 56, 64, 84 
Bonneville 33 | Des Moines river 41,43 
Boundary of Creek country 63 | De Soto ---- 
Boundary of Louisiana and Texas 38 | Dickerson, J. H.... 89 
Bridger, James. 35 | Dimmock, survey of 37 
Brown, J. 0 2 Dodge, Colonel 37 
Bryan, F. T 60, 61, 62, 88, 89, 91 | Donelson, A. J 67, 68, 69, 70 
30, 33 ty, J 67,71, 72 
Burns, B 85 | Duncan, J. K.... 70 
Byrne, J. H 79 | Dufot de Mofras 16 


118 ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


E. 
Page. 
Egloffstein, T. W 75 
۳ W.B Lco. 
Emory, W. H 44, 53, 83, 84 
Emory, W. H., reconnaissance of . -.------------ 52 
emann, H 89 
Engineer, cantonment .... 24 
Escalante 22, 35 
F. 
sete EC 81 
Finley’s 30 
Fo principal meridian, up s TREE Cep 93 
ifth principal meridian, position o 94 
Zu 36 
orce, Peter 15 
Fort Dalles, position of 107 
Fort Defiance, position of 98 
Fort Kearny, position of. 105 
Fort Laramie, position of. 104 
Fort Leavenworth, position of 103, 105 
Fort Osage, position of 101 
Fort Pierre tion of.... 105 
Fort Smith, position o 97 
Fort Union, یه‎ Territory, position of...... 105 
Fort Vancouver, position of. ....-.---..2-...+-. 107 
Fort Walla-Walla, position of 105 
Franklin, W. B ; reconnaissance of . .........--- 52 
Frémont, J. C 40 
Frémont, J. C., first expedition 42 
Frémont, J. C., Captain, second Ania RE 46 
Frémont, J. C., third expedition -......---..--- 49 
Frémont’s Peak 24 
French navigators 15 
G. 
Gallatin Fork : z 18 
Garner, G.C % 84 
er, G. C 77,4 
Garrard, K 
Gass, Patrick 17 
Gaudalupe mountains 
Gibbs, George 70, 71, 86 
Gibson, G. H.. 
Gila river 53 
Glade, C. 19 
Graham, J. D 23.39.83 
G Wm 67 
Gray, A. B ZR 
Great Basin 
Great Salt Lake. ...-.... cus sum 95 E M 
Gregg's Commerce of Prairies .. 44 
Green river 31, 49, 58, 59 
Greenhow, Robert : c 16 
rover, 0 ~ ۱ 67,71 
Gunnison, J. W ترجه‎ 58, 73, 74 
H. 
Merdcegtle, E. L F...........— هچ اج‎ ere 84 
Hardy, Lieutenant IUE 27 


Page. 
Hartz, E. L 88 
Hayden, F. V 90 
Heintzlema 64 
Hennepin xè ..-c«< 29 
eerman, A. L 78,79 
Higgins, S. P 
odges, H. C. 70 
Homans, S 74 
Hood, J. B 81 
Hood, Captain W. 38 
Howard, R. A 61 
Howland, G. W 58 
Humboldt ...- 22 
Humboldt river ۱ 32,50, 75,86 
Houston, J. H ; ; 84,85 
Hutton, N. H 77,80, 90, 91 
h 
Indian territory..... 25, 27, 37, 39,43, 45, 56, 57, 63, 64, 77, 
85 
Ingalls, R : 86 
Ingraham, E 84 
Itasca lake 41 
Ives, J.C 76,77, 91 
Ws 
James, E 24 
James’ Peak Cid 
Jefferson, President +216 
Jekyll T 84 
Jessup 24 
Johnston, 60,61 
Johnson, ees U.S, N 39 
Jones, 8 84 
a ELB eare * 62 
K. 
Kansas Territory -...20, 21, 24, 26, 31, 42, 45, 47, 49, 50, 57, 
58,59,64, 74, 88 
Kearny, J, I. جات سوت جات‎ 39 
Keating, W. H 25 
Kendall's Santa Fé expedition 39 
Kennerley, C. B. R 
Kern, R. H 56, 62, 74 
Kern, E. M 50, 56 
Kohl, J. G 
Koppel, Charles 78 
Kooskoosky ri 18 
L. 
Lander, F. W 67, 69, 70, 73, 91 
Land Office 
La Hontan ' 34 
Lambert, J 67, 88, 89 . 
La Rivière Longue : 34 
Larned, C. F. 88, 89 
La Salle ...- 29 
Lassen’s farm, position of. 104 
Lava plain .... 33 
La: J. 83 


? 
Leavenworth, General : 37 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. . 239 


Page. Page. 
Lee, T. J 89 | Netweska Territory ................ 17, 24, 31, 43, 47, 58, 59 
Tevis and Clarke 17,18,19 Neighbors. 85 
Lewis and Clarke’ و‎ Pass 18 | Newberry, J. §...... 81 
Lewis river 18,32 | New Mexico,........--- 25, 26, 40, 44, 45, 52, 53, 54, 55,66 
Llano Estacado 40, 64, 80, 85 63, 74, 77, 79, 80, 81, 83, 84, 88 
Lombard, C 88 | New Mexico Territory 21,22 
Longitudes, list of. 109 | New Spain .- 22 
ng's Peak Nicollet, L. N. ab NAR EEE مک‎ 40, 41, 42 
Long, S. H. 23,24,25,26 | Niobrara 87 
Los MA river Nobles, W. E 90 
Louis ; - 21 | Nobles’ Pass 76 
-e Fork 24 | North fork of Canadian 27 
Northwest boundary line 27 
M. . 
0. 
Macomb, General ai 
Madison Fork 1 O’Donoghue, J 85 
Major 91 Ogden’s river 32, 34, 36 
Manny, Colonel ; 37 | Oregon Territory....... -=-= 17, 18,27,38, 39, 59, 73,82, 87 
Marcy, R. B 57, 64, 85 
Marquette 29 P. 
8 map, n mpilati naf 
i oe 32, 34, 36 Parke, J. G mec 63, 77,19, 80,90 
Mather, T warty, C 4 
Mendell, G. H sa | "9 - n - 
En B 64,10 Peck, N. G 50,52,53,54 
McLaughlin, Governor 34 Féck, , letter 4 from 
Meade, G. pa Pecos ver 60, 61, 62 
Merrill, Major Pembina, position of " 
iia ai 15, 82,83,84 | Phillips, E. A 84,85 
Mühler, N oed 60,61,62,84 | Pike, Z. M Mig 
Miniwakan lake : à N í 42 e Peak 20, 24 
Minnesota river .. 26 | Pit river - 
WURST, 26, 28, 40, 41, 42,44, 60, 67, "85, 87,90 Platte river ۰ دود ججی هد‎ -24, 30, 31, 42, 43, 47, 58, 59, 87, 89 
Minter, J. F 61,70 | Pope, J 60, 79,91 
Mississippi _tiver........+-.2----<- 20,26, 28, 29,40,67,87 | Powder river 9 
Missouri aie... 37, 18, 38, 40, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 87, 90,91 | Preston, position of 95 
Mitchell, J 79 | Preuss, Charles 42,47, 50,78 
 Mofüt, J 
Mojave 36, 77,78 R. 
Mollhausen id ki, a 84 
Moore, J. N 88 | بو ند‎ 23 
Morris, R. M 2: ۳9 | boa river; Tà ۱ 20, 21, 25, 57, 61, 64 
Monte Diablo meridian, position یط | 5698 | وه مج و‎ river of the North ; 26, 60 
Mountain formation, extent of 110 ۱۳ TITULI 20,47 
Mountain formation, theories.--..... 111, i, 113, 114,118 wee, B 27 
M , Richardson, R 27 
Mount Adams, position of 107 Reno, J. L 85 
Mount Rainier, position of 108 | Rio Grande river 30, 44, 53, 56, 60,61, 74, 77,84 
Mount St. Helen's, position of....--.----------- 107 rdeau 23 
Mullan, John 67,68, 71,72 | Robinson, J. H 20 
Multonomah river 30 | Robertson's Oregon 
Shell river 33,68 | Rocky mountains........ 17, 18, 24, 27, 31, 47, 49,50, 52,53 
69, 70, 71, 72, 74, 77, 89 
N. Ross, A 85 
Nachess Pass, position of -- 108 g 
Nachess Pass 73 
Navajo country 56 | Sabineriver 39 
b EA uns 38467, 87,90,91 | Salcedo, governor M 21,22 


120 


Sacramento river 


Page. 
32, 49, 51, 56,76, 81 
: 20 


Saline Fork 
Salmon river 17 
Salt Plain 43 
San Antonio, position of3:.:2............-..-.- 95 
San Bernardino meridian, position of ...--..----- 95 
San Joaquin 32, 49,57, 78 
Santa Fé expedition 
Santa Fé, "— of. 99 
Say, Tho 24, 25 
Scheil, J 74 
Schoolcraft, H. R 28 
tt, A 84,85 
ou. 2 
Shayenne river 26, 42 
erburne ' 
; J. G. 64,85 
Sibley, G..C 27 
impson, J. H 56,87 
Sierra Blanca 21,74 
Sierra Madre. ........ FUIS ODER agis 53, 57, 77, 83, 84 
Sierra Madre, extent of -.. 114,115 
MN NONE Lee E R ken umb mmn 
Sierra — Nh ce selon te هد مه سده مد‎ odi, 410,51, DB, T5, T6, 78 
ی ی و ی رد ایو اک تا مت ر د‎ si یی‎ Sc ا‎ 
هد‎ cun meridian, position of ......---.-. 
zo J. W. 78 
Smith, M. L. 62 
Smith, W. D. 8 
ith, W. 60,61,62,83 
Smoky Hill river 20, 
Snake river. $ 51, 83, 48, 72, 73, 86 
Snowden, J. H i 87,90 
Snyder, J. A ; os T4 
South Pass. . 91,42 
Spanish navigators. £9.35 
Sparks, Captain 21 
Stansbury, H..... J M 
Stanley, J. M 53,67,68,70 
Steen's map 
Stevens, I. I 66 to 72 
vens, 67 
Sterling, E. 81 
Stone G 78,79 
St. Peter’s river 26, 29,41 
St. Vrain’s Fort, position of 104 
Suckley, G 67, 70 
Sully, A 9 
Superior lake 26,27, 41 
swift, W. H eu | " 1 
a oie 
Taplin, C. L -.. ferent es: 79 
Texas....-------- 25, 38, 39, 44, 57, 60, 61, 62, 64, 80, 84, 85 | 
Thom, G : ; ux | 
Three Parks ; 49 


ALPHABETICAL INDEX. 


Page. 

ON J. C 72 
85 

RMR lake 22,35 
Timpanogos river and lake 30 
Tinkham, A. W 67, 70,71 
Topographical Engineer Bureau 15 


fee ga Bureau map of territory west of Mis- 


issippi -~ 62 
M gus Bureau map of Oregon 37 
Topographical Bureau map of Texas 44 
Topographical Bureau map of western frontier.... 37 
Traveller’s Rest creek 17 
Tullock, Samuel 35 
Turnbull, C. N 84 
U. 
Utah 32, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 58, 74, 75, 76, 86 
Utah lake 35, 80 
Ey 
Von Hippel, M- 85 
W. 
Wallamath 19 
Warren, G. K 87,90 
Warner, W. H., reconnaissance of .............. 55,56 
Wasatch mountains................-.--.49,58,59, 74, 75 
Washington Territory.........---. 17,18, 27, 32, 38, 39, 48 
; 62, 69, 70,71, 73, 86 
Webster, J. D. 56 
Weiss, J. E 84 
Pene (—— 103 
.. 84,85 
at "e wW 76,83, 84 
White, هار۳‎ UE چ‎ ot .84 
Whi 60 
Wilk ovnlaratinne nf : 39 
Wilkes, letter from ; - 106 
1 T s ; 20 
Willamette 82 
Williamson, R. S 55,78, 81 
Wind river 
Wind River mountains 32,43 
رود وهی‎ lake 26 
۳ 26 
Wiichita. TuoUPÉB DR Lia api ai ت‎ biis و ی‎ E 64 
Withers, J. W 86 
Wislizenus, explorations e e 55 
ood, S : 60 
Ww B5. W 63, 64 
Woodruff, I. C . 63, 64 
Xe 
Yellowst i ;-2.1...18, 29, $2, 38, 68, 81, 90 
و او‎ 49, 92, 98, 


EXPLORATIONS AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN, 
WAR DEPARTMENT. 


TOPOGRAPHICAL MAPS, PROFILES, AND SKETCHES, 


TO ILLUSTRATE THE VARIOUS 


REPORTS OF SURVEYS FOR RAILROAD ROUTES 


= MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN. 


WASHINGTON, D. € 
1859. 


CONTENTS. 


Sketches of route of 41st parallel—Beckwith’s Report, Vol. II. 


Weber, lower cañon 


Sheep Rock cafion of Weber river .... 


Porpcupine Terrace 


Franklin valley 


Valley of Humboldt river, at Lassen's Meadows 


Valley of the Mud lakes ...... 


elin P. 
West mn of Madelin Pass 


Northern slopes of the Sierra Nevada 


س۲ ج هت ٩‏ 555555 6 5 


Portion of the main mountain passage of the Upper Sacramento or Pit river 


Official review of the reports—Vols. I and VII. 


General map 


General profiles 


Route of the 4Tth and 49th parallels—Stevens’ Report, Vol. I. 
Map No. 1.—St, Paul to Riviére des Lacs ; 


Map No. 2.—Rivière des Lacs to the Rocky mountains 


Map No. 3.—Rocky mountains to Puget Sound 
POOR -i 


Routes in Oregon and proe mre! Vol. ۰ 
Map No. 1.—From San Francisco bay to northern boundary of California 


Map No. 2.—From northern boundar y of Calif: m 


Profiles No. 1.—From Benicia to Fort ۳ and from Fort Reading to Fort Vancouver 


Profiles No. 2.—From head of Des Chutes valley to Vancouver, and from Vancouver to Fort Reading 


Route near the 41st parallel— Beckwith’ s Report, Vol. II. 


Map No. 1.—From the valley of Green river to the Great Salt lake 
Map No. 2.—From Great Salt lake to the Humboldt mountains 


Map No. 3.—From the Humboldt mountains to the Mud lakes 


Map No. 4. —Fiom the valley of the Mud lakes to the Pacific ocean 
Profiles of the route 


Route near the 38th and 39th par allels— Beckwith’ s Report, Vol. II. 


Profiles of the route 


Map No. 1.—From the western boundary of Missouri to the mouth of Trap creek 


iv CONTENTS. 


Map No. 2.—From the mouth of Trap creek to the Santa Fé crossing 
Map No. 3.—From the Santa Fé crossing to the Coochetopa Pass 
Map No. 4.—From the Coochetopa Pass to the Wasatch mountains 


l Route near the 35th parallel— W hipple s Report, Vol. III. 
Map No. 1.—From Fort Smith to the Rio Grande i 


Map No. 2.—From the Rio Grande to the Pacific 
Profiles 


Routes in Southern California— Williamson s Report, Vol. V. 
General map of explanations and YERE in California prai 
Map of Passes in the Sierra Nevada .... 


Map and profile of the Cañada de las Uvas. . oe PE SE AE EE E OE E T 
Map and profile of the Tejon Pass .. نب خی وج‎ ۳ oe à 
Sheet No. bol sition end dac diii Me da 3۳9 See ee E تفت‎ 


Sheet No. هو یوس تسف‎ EGE dud 


ES KH 


Routes in Ual iiin and on 32d paralld — Parke. s Reporte, Ta. VII. 
Map No. 1.—From San Francisco bay tó the plains of Los Angeles 


Map No. 2.—From the Pimas villages to Fort Fillmore TE PR rie dem Jn eode: 
Profiles.—From he Mn rr Lo the Fae on aer A j ad from the Pim as villa ges to 


Fort Fillmore 


Map and elis tds ths tek tiver to the Rio Grande - « 


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