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CONTENT8 


THE   SECOND  VOLUME. 


CHAPTEE  I. 

Viiit  to  the  Volcano  of  Masaya.~yiIIage  of  Masaya. — Lake  of  Ma8aya.~Niiidi 
ri— Aicent  of  the  VolcaDO.— Account  of  it. — The  Crater.— Descent  into  it- 
Volcano  of  Nindiri.— Ignorance  of  the  People  concerning  Objects  of  Inlereat— 
Return  to  Masaya.— Another  Countryman. — Managom.— Lake  of  Managua.— 
Flahing. — Beautiful  Scanery.— Mateares. — Questa  del  Relox.— Nagarotii. — 
CrosMt.— A  Gamekeeper. — Pueblo  Nnevo Paga  7 

CHAPTER  11. 

Beantifnl  Plain.— Leon.— Stroll  through  the  Town.— Baneful  Effects  of  Piity 
Spirit— Scenes  of  Horror. — Unpleasant  Intelligence. — Journey  continued. — 
A  fastidious  Beggar.— Chinandaga.— Gulf  of  Couchagua.— Visit  to  Realfl|o^ — 
Cotton  Factory.- Harbour  of  Realejo. — El  Viejo.— Port  of  Nagoscolo.-  Iiii« 
portance  of  a  Passport— Embarking  Mules.- A  Bungo.— Volcano  of  Congoi- 
na.— Eruption  of  1835.— La  Union 8t 

CHAPTER  m. 

Joamey  to  San  Sahador.— A  new  Condpanion.— San  Alejo.— San  Miguel— War 
Alarms.  —  Another  Countryman.  —  State  of  San  Salvador.  —  River  Lempo.  -' 
San  Vicente.— Volcano  of  San  Vftjentc—Thermal  Springs. — Cojutepeque.— 
Arriral  at  San  Salvador.  —  Prejudice  against  Foreigners.  —  Contributions. — 
Pressgangs. — Vice-president  Vigil.— Taking  of  San  Mighel  and  San  Vicente. 
— Rumours  of  a  March  npon  San  SalTad9r.rrI^P^ure  from  San  Salvador  41 

CHAPTER  IV. 

CoDtributions. — El  Baranco  de  Guaramal.— Volcano  of  Izalco.— Depredation!  of 
Rascon.— Zonzonate.— News  from  Guatimala.— Journey  continued.— Aguisal 
ca — Apeneca.— Mountain  of  Aguschapa.— Subterranean  Fires.— Aguachapa. — 
Defisat  of  Morazan.— Confusion  and  Terror         ......    68 

CHAPTER  V.     • 

Approach  of  Carrera*s  Forces.— Terror  of  the  Inhabitants.- Their  Flight— Sur- 
render of  the  Town.— Ferocity  of  the  Soldiery.— A  Bulletin.— Diplomacy.— A 
PassporU— A  Breakfast— An  Alarm.— The  Widow  Padilla.— An  Attack.— De 
feat  of  Carrera*s  Forces.— The  Town  taken  by  General  Morazan  —His  Entry. 
— The  Widow's  Son.— Visit  to  General  Moraiaa— His  Appearance,  Character, 
Aec— PIsBS  dortDftd  •••••••••••74 


IT  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

▼itit  from  General  Morazan.— End  of  bit  Career. — Procoring  a  Guide. — Depar- 
kare  for  Guatiinala.— Fright  of  the  People.—The  Rio  Paz.— Hacienda  of  PaU 
mita.— A  fortunate  Escape. — Haciendi  of  San  Jos6. — An  awkward  Predica- 
ment.— A  kind  Host.— Rancho  of  HoeoUlla.— Oratorio  and  Leon.— Rio  de  lot 
Esclavos. — The  Village.— Approach  to  Guatimala.— Arrival  at  Guatimala. — A 
Sketch  of  the  Wars.- Defeat  of  Morazan.— Scene  of  Massacre         .  Pago  93 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Ruins  of  Quirigua. — Visit  to  them.— Los  Amates.— Pyramidal  Structure. — A 
Colossal  Head. — An  Altar. — A  Collection  of  Monuments. — Statues. — Charac- 
ter of  the  Ruins.— A  lost  City.- Purchasing  a  ruined  City        .       .       .118 

CHAPTER  Vm. 

Reception  at  the  GoTemmect  House.- The  Captain  in  Trouble.— A  Change  of 
Character. — Arrangements  for  Journey  to  Palenque.— Arrest  of  the  Csptain. — 
His  Release.— Visit  from  a  Countryman.— Dangers  in  Prospect.— Lsst  Stroll 
through  the  Suburbs. — Hospital  and  Cemetery  of  San  Juan  de  Dios.— Fearful 
State  of  the  Country. — Last  Interview  with  Carrera. — Departure  from  Guati- 
mala.  —  A  Don  Quixote.  —  Ciudad  Vipja.  —  Plain  of  El  Vieja.  —  Volcanoes, 
Plains,  and  Villages. — San  Andres  Isapa.— Dangerous  Road. — A  Molina  .  125 

CHAPTER  IX. 

ioumey  continued. — Barrancas. — Tecpan  Guatimsla.- A  noble  Church.— A  sa- 
cred Stone. — ^The  ancient  City.— Description  of  the  Kuins.— A  Molina. — Anoth- 
er Earthquake- — Patzum.— A  Ravine. — Fortifications.— Los  Altos. —  Godines. 
— Losing  a  good  Friend.— Magnificent  Scenery.— San  Antonio.— Lake  of  Ati- 
tan 146 

CHAPTER  X. 

Lake  of  Atitan.— Conjectures  as  to  its  Origin,  &c.— A  Sail  on  the  Lske. — A  dan- 
gerous Situation.— A  lofty  Mountain  Range. — Ascent  of  the  Mountains.— Com- 
manding View.— Beautiful  Plain.— An  elevated  Village.— Ride  along  the  Lake. 
— Solola.— Visit  to  Santa  Cruz  del  Quich6.— Scenery  on  the  Road.— Barrancas. 
— San  Thomas. — Whipping-posts.— Plain  of  Quiche. — The  Village. — Ruins  of 
Quiche.— Its  History.— Desolate  Scene.— A  fjcetiou»  Cura.— Description  of 
the  Ruins.— Plan.— The  Royal  Palace.— The  Place  of  Sacrifice.— An  Image. 
— Two  Head.4,  6cc.— Destruction  of  the  Palace  recent. — An  Arch       .        .  161 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Interior  of  a  C<Hivent.— Royal  Bird  of  Quiche.— Indian  Languages. — The  Lord's 
Prayer  in  the  Quiche  Language. — Numerals  in  the  same.— Church  of  Quiche. 
—Indian  Superstitions.— Another  lost  City. — Tierra  de  Guerra. — The  Abori- 
ginals.—Their  Conversion  to  Christianity.— They  were  never  conquered.'— A 


C01VTBMT8.  Y 

tMug  City.— Indisn  TnkKtion  respecting  this  City. — Probsbly  hss  nennr  boeo 
Tisited  by  the  Whites.— Presents  a  nobte  Held  for  foture  Enterprise.— Depar-* 
tare.— San  Pedro.— Virtue  of  a  Passport.— A  difficult  Ascent. — Mountain 
Scenery.— Totooicapan.— An  excellent  Dinner.— A  Country  of  Aloes. — "  RiTer 
of  Blood." — Arrival  at  Quezaltenango Page  189 

CHAPTER  Xn. 

Qvezahenaiigo. — Account  of  it.— ConTersion  of  the  Inhabitants  to  Christianity. 
— Appearance  of  the  City. — The  Convent— InBurrection.-Carrera's  March 
Qpon  Qoezaltenango. — His  Treatment  of  the  Inhabitants.— Preparations  for 
Holy  Week.— The  Church.— A  Procession.— Good  Friday.— Celebration  6(  the 
Resurrection.— Opening  Ceremony.— The  Crucifixion.— A  Sermon.— Descent 
from  the  Cross.— Grand  Procession.- Church  of  £1  Calvario. — The  Case  of 
the  Cura. — Warm  Springs  of  Almolooga 203 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Joomey  contimied. — A  Mountain  Plain.  —  Lost  Guides.  —  A  trying  Moment  — 
Agua  Calientes.— A  magnificeBt  View.—  Gold  Ore.—  San  Sebastiano.-  Gue- 
guetenango.  —  Sierra  MwAn.'^A  huge  Skeleton.  — The  Ruins.  —  Pyramidal 
Structures.- A  Vault. — Mounds.- A  welcome  Addition.— Interior  of  a  Mound. 
—Vases.— Ascent  of  the  Sierra  Madre.— Buena  Vista.— The  Descent— Todoe 
Santos.— San  Martin.— San  Andres  Petapan.— A  Foffest  on  Fire.— Suffering 
of  the  Mules  from  Swarms  of  Flies. — San  Antonio  de  Guista    .       .       .  221* 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

Comfortable  Lodgings.— Journey  continued.— Stony  Road.— Beautifbl  River. — 
Suspension  Bridge.— The  Dolores. — Rio  Lagertero.- Enthusiasm  brought 
down.— Another  Bridge.— Entry  into  Mexico;— A  Bath.— A  Solitary  Church. 
— A  Scene  of  Barrenness.— Zapolouta.—Comitan.— Another  Countryman.— » 
More  Perplexities. — Official  Courtesy. — Trade  of  Comitan.  —  Smuggling.  — 
Scarcity  of  Soap 940 

CHAPTER  XV. 

Pirtmg.— SotsDiu— A  Miytotfre.—Oco«ngo.—Ituin8.— Beginning  of  the  Rainf 
Season.— A  Femate  0iiidt.— Arrival  at  the  Ruins.— Stone  Figures.— Pyramid 
dal  8tnictaret.*'An  Arch.— A  Stucco  Ornament. — A  Wooden  Lintel.— A  cu* 
rious  Cave.— Buildings,  d&c— A  Causeway.  — More  Ruins.— Journey  to  Pa> 
lenque.- Rio  Grande.— Cascadea.—Succession  of  Villages.— A  Maniac— The 
Yahalon.— Tumbala.- A  wild  Places— ▲  Scene  of  Grandeur  and  Sublimity.— 
Indian  Carriers.- A  steep  Mountain. — San  Pedro 255> 

CHAPTER  XVL 

A  wild  Coantiy.— Aseent  of  a  Mountain.— Ride  in  a  SilU.— A  pracarioas  Sltui^ 
tioo.— The  Descent.— Rancho  of  Nopa.— Attacks  of  Moschetoes.— Approadi 
t»  Pelenque.— Pasture  Grounds.— Village  of  Palenque.— A  crusty  OfficieL— At 


<( 


«t  CONTSNTS. 

•oarteooB  lUception.— Scarcity  of  ProvisioDf.— Sonday. — Cholera. — Another 
Countryman.— The  Conversion,  Apostacy,  and  lUcoTery  of  the  Indiana. — River 
ChacamaL— The  Cariba. — Ruins  of  Palenque 273 

CHAPTER  XVn. 

Preparations  for  visiting  the  Ruins.  —  A  Turn-out.  —  Departure.— The  Roa<l«- 
Rivers  Micol  and  Otula.— Arrival  at  the  Kuins.— The  Palace.— A  Feu-de-joio. 
--Quarters  in  the  Palace.— Inscriptions  by  former  Visiters.— The  Fate  of 
Beanham.— Discovery  of  the  Ruins  of  Palenque.— Visit  of  Del  Rio.— Expe- 
dition of  Dupaix.— Drawings  of  the  present  Work.— First  Dinner  at  the  Ru- 
ins.—Mammoth  Fireflies.— Sleeping  Apartments.— £zlent  of  the  Ruins.- Ob 
atacles  to  Exploration.- Suffisring  from  Moschetoes- 28d 

CHAPTER  XVni. 

Fiaeautions  against  the  Attacks  of  Moschetoes.- Mode  of  Life  at  Palenque.— 
Description  of  the  Palace. —  Piers. —  Hieroglyphics. —  Figures.- Doorways.— 
Corridors,— Courly.ards.-A  wooden  Relic.— Stone  Steps.— Towers.— Tablets. 
— Stucco  Ornaments,  &c.,  6cc.— The  Royal  Chapel. — Explorationa.— An  Aque> 
duct.— An  Alarm.— Insects.— Effect  of  Insect  Stingt.— Return  to  the  Village 
of  Palenque         ..       ^       .........  308 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

A  Toice  from  the  Ruins. — Buying  Bread.— Arrival  of  Padros.— Cura  of  Palenque. 
— Card  Playing.— Sunday.— Mass.— A  Dinner  Party.— Mementoes  of  Home.— 
Dinner  Customs. — Return  to  the  Ruins.— A  marked  Change. — Terrific  Thun- 
der.— A  Whirlwind.— A  Scene  of  the  Sublime  and  Terrible      .       .       .  325 

CHAPTER  XX 

Plan  of  the  Ruins;— Pyramidal  Structure.— A  Building.— Stucco  Ornaments. — 
Human  Figures.— Tablets.— Remarkable  Hieroglyphics.— Range  of  Pillars.— 
Stone  Terrace. — Another  Building.— A  large  Tablet. — A  Cross. — Conjectures 
ia  regard  to  this  Cross.— Beautiful  Sculpture.— A  Platfonn.— Curious  De- 
▼ices.— A  Statue.— Another  Pyramidal  Structure,  surmounted  by  a  Building.- 
Corridora.— A  curious  Bas-relief.— Stone  Tablet*,  with  Figures  in  Bas  reUef. — 
Tablets  and  Figures— The  Oratorio.— More  Pyramidal  Structurea  and  Build- 
ings.—Extent  of  the  Ruins.— These  Ruins  the  Remains  of  a  poliahed  and  pe- 
culiar People.— Antiquity  of  Palenque 337 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Diputure  from  the  Roum.— Bad  Road.— An  Accident— Arrival*  at  the  Village. 
—A  Funeral  Procession.— Negotiations  foe  Purchasing  Palenque.— Making 
Casts.— Final  Departure  from  Palenque.— Beautiful  Plain.— Hanging  Birds*- 
■Mts.— A  Sitia— Adventure  with  a  monstroua  Ape.— Hospitality  of  Padres.— 
das  Playaa.— A  Tempest.— Moschetoes.— A  Youthful  Merchant— Alligators. 
*-AnoUMr  Funwml— Diagmlipg  QecamoniaU 366 


COMTXlfTS.  TU 

Hi 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

fimbwcatioiL — An  inondated  Plain.— Rio  Chico.— The  Usumasinta.— Ric  Pal- 
laada.— Yucatan.— Mora  Revolutiona.— Vespers.— Embarcation  for  the  Lagona. 
— Shooting  Alligators. — Tremendous  Storm.— Boca  Chico.— Lake  of  Terminoa. 
—A  Calm,  succeeded  by  a  Tempest  —  Arriral  at  the  Lagans    .       .  Page  374 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

Laguna. — Journey  to  Merida.— Sisal.— A  new  Mode  of  Conveyance. — Village  of 
Hunucama.— Arrival  at  Merida.— Aspect  of  the  City.— F^te  of  Corpus  Dom- 
ini.— The  Cathedral.— The  Procession.— Beauty  and  Simplicity  of  the  Indian 
Women.— Palace  of  the  Bishop.— The  Theatre.— Journey  to  Uxmal. — Ha- 
cienda of  Vayalquex.— Value  of  Water.— Condition  of  the  Indians  in  Yucatan. 
—A  peculiar  kind  of  Coach.— Hacienda  of  Mucuyche.— A  beautiful  Grotto  391 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Journey  resumed.— Arrival  at  Uxmal.— Hacienda  of  UxmaL  —  Major-domoa.^ 
Adventures  of  a  young  Spaniard.— Visit  to  the  Ruins  of  Uzmal.— First  Sight 
of  the  Ruins.— Character  of  the  Indians.— Details  of  Hacienda  Life.— A  delicate 
Case. — Illness  of  Mr.  Catherwood.— Breaking  up 410 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

tains  of  Uzmal.— A  lofly  Building.— Magnificent  View  from  its  Doorway.— Pe- 
culiar sculptured  Ornaments.— Another  Building,  called  by  the  Indians  the 
House  of  the  Dwarf.— An  Indian  Legend.— The  House  of  the  Nuns.— The 
House  of  Turtles.— The  House  of  Pigeons.— The  Ouard-house.- Abeence  at 
Water. — The  House  of  the  Governor.— Terraces.- TVoad«i  Lintels.— Detail* 
of  the  House  of  the  Governor.— Doorwaya.— Corridors. — A  Beam  of  Wood,  in 
scribed  with  Hieroglyphica.— Sculptured  Stones,  &c.         ....  499 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Exploration  finished.— Who  built  these  ruined  Cities  7— Opinion  of  Dupaix.— > 
These  Ruins  bear  no  Resemblance  to  the  Architecture  of  Greece  and  Rome.— 
Nothing  like  them  in  Europe. — Do  not  Resemble  the  known  Works  of  Japan 
and  Chma.— Neither  those  of  Hindu.- No  Excavations  found.— The  Pyramida 
of  Egypt,  in  Uieir  original  Stste,  do  not  resemble  what  are  called  the  Pyramida 
of  America.— The  Tlsmples  of  Egypt  not  like  those  of  America.— Sculpture  not 
the  same  as  that  of  Egypt — Probable  Antiquity  of  these  Ruins.— Accounts  of 
the  Spanish  Historians.— These  Cities  probably  built  by  the  Races  inhabiting  the 
Country  at  the  time  of  the  Spanish  Conquest.— These  Racea  not  yet  extinot  436 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Joomey  to  Merida.— Village  of  Moona.— A  Pond  of  Water,  »Curioaity.— Abonln. 
— Indian  Runners.- Merida. — Departure. — Hunucama. — Siege  of  Campeachy. 
— Embarcation  for  Havana.— Incidents  of  the  Passage.— Fourth  of  July  at  Sea. 
—Shark-fishing.— Getting  lost  at  Sea.— Relieved  by  the  Helen  Maria.— Paa-^ 
sage  to  New.York.— Arrival— Conclusion 458- 


.  ♦ 


BNORATINOS   OF    TOLUMB    II. 


Stoue  T&blet .« FrontitfiiOL 

Idol  at  QuirigUA • A......   ISl 

Idol  At  Quirigua ?... ISS 

SanUCroz  del  Quiche 171 

Place  of  Sacrifice 184 

FSgarea  found  at  Santa  Crus  del  Quiche 185 

Fka  of  Qaezaltenango 304 

Vaaes  found  at  GaegueteniDgo S81 

Ocosingo 869 

Palace  at  Palenqoe 309 

Plan  of  Palace 310 

Stucco  Figure  on  Pie? 311 

Front  Corridor  of  Palace 318 

No.  1,  Courtyard  of  Palace 314 

No.  2.  Coloasal  Baa-reliefs  in  Stone 814 

East  Side  of  Courtyard 315 

No.  I,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 310 

No.  2,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 318 

No.  3,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 318 

Ofal  Bas-relief  in  Stone 318 

Bas-relief  in  Stucco 319 

General  Plan  of  Palenque 337 

Casa  No.  1  in  Ruins 338 

'Casa  No.  1  restored 339 

No.  1,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 340 

No.  2,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 840 

No.  3,  Bas-rolief  in  Stucco 340 

No.  4,  Bas-relief  in  Stucco 340 

No.  I,  Tablet  of  Hieroglyphics 342 

No.  2,  Tablet  of  Hieroglyphics 342 

Tablet  on  inner  Wall 843 

Casa  di  Piedras  No.  2 344 

Tablet  on  back  Wall  of  All«r,  Casa  No.  2 345 

Stone  Sutue 349 

No.  3 


xiroRATiircMi  OF  TOLViai  n. 


Amt  Corridor —  — — 351 

So.  1,  B«»-r«UeftinFkontof  Altar —.......  8ft3 

Noi.8,Bu-r«UeftinFiODtof  Altar S68 

Aibmtorio  or  Altar • •——•••..••.••——...  864 

CMaNo.  4 855 

BooMof  the  Dwarf 420 

Can  del  Gobemador « 488 

Bnlptored  Front  of  Caaadel  Ooberoador •«»••«•.»••. 484 

Ijpptian  Hierogtyphice «..—  ••••.•••• 441 

Top  of  AltaAt  Cc^ |...— ^ •«•••*•. .•.^—..  464 

IC«dcaa  HMioglj|diieal  Wiilmg !?••••  .«^.^.. 464 


INCIDENTS  OF  TBAYBL 

or 

OailTmAL  AMBmiOAy   OHIAFA8,   AlIP  TUCATAW. 


CHAFTEB  L 

VkH  to  tiM  Votetno  of  lCan7i.-yiII«ga  of  Uwmn^Ukm  oT  MMtytw-Nindb- 
iL— Asceot  of  Uw  Ydcana— Accoont  of  It.— The  Crater.— Descent  into  it— 
▼okno  of  Nindiri.— Ignorance  of  the  People  eoocembf  Objects  of  Intereet— 
Hetnm  to  Maaaya.— Another  Conntrymaa.— Mawagoa.— Lake  of  Manafna.— • 
Fiahing.— Beaatifol  Scenery.— Mateares. — Qaesta  del  Rfka.— Nagarotis.— 
Ci  oases.— A  Gamekeeper.— PtKblo  Nnofo. 

Ma&ch  1.  Anxious  «8  I  was  to  hunj  on^  I  resolred 
nevertheless  to  gire  one  day  to  the  Volcano  of  Masaya. 
For  this  purpose  I  sent  a  courier  ahead  to  procure  me 
t  guide  up  the  volcano,  and  did  not  get  off  till  eleven 
o'clock.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  city  we  met  a 
Uttle  negro  on  horseback,  dressed  in  the  black  suit  that 
nature  made  him,  with  two  large  plantain  leaves  sewed 
together  for  a  hat,  and  plantain  leaves  for  a  saddle. 
At  the  distance  of  two  leagues  we  came  in  sight  of  the 
volcano,  and  at  four  o'clock,  after  a  hot  ride,  entered 
the  tovm,  one  of  the  oldest  and  largest  in  Nicaragua, 
and  though  completely  inland,  containing,  vnth  its  sub- 
urbs, a  population  of  twenty  thousand.  We  rode  to 
the  house  of  Don  Sabino  Satroon,  who  lay,  vnth  his 
mouth  open,  snoring  in  a  hammock;  but  his  wife,  a 
pretty  young  half-blood,  received  me  cordially,  and 
with  a  proper  regard  fox'  the  infirmities  of  an  old  hus* 
band  and  for  me,  did  not  wake  him  up.    All  at  onee 


1^ 


-*. 


8  INCIDENTS    OP    TRAVEL. 

he  shut  his  mouth  and  opened  his  eyes,  and  gave  me  a 
cordial  welcome.  Don  Sabino  was  a  Colombian,  who 
had  been  banished  for  ten  years,  as  he  said,  for  services 
rendered  his  country;  and  having  found  his  way  to 
Masaya,  had  married  the  pretty  young  half-breed,  and 
set  up  as  a  doctor.  Inside  the  door,  behind  a  little  stock 
of  sugar,  rice,  sausages,  and  chocolate,  was  a  formidable 
array  of  jars  and  bottles,  exhibiting  as  many  colours  and 
as  puzzling  labels  as  an  apothecary's  shop  at  home. 

I  had  time  to  take  a  short  walk  around  the  town,  and 
turning  down  the  road,  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
came  to  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  more  than  a  hundred 
feet  high,  at  the  foot  of  which,  and  a  short  distance  be- 
yond, was  the  Liake  of  Masaya.  The  descent  was  al- 
most perpendicular^  in  one  place  by  a  rough  ladder,  and 
then  by  steps  cut  in  the  rock.  I  was  obliged  to  stop 
while  fifteen  or  twenty  women,  most  of  them  young  girls, ' 
passed.  Their  water-jars  were  made  of  the  shell  of  a 
large  gourd,  round,  with  fanciful  figures  scratched  on 
them,  and  painted  or  glazed,  supported  on  the  back  by 
a  strap  across  the  forehead,  and  secured  by  fine  net- 
work. Below  they  were  chattering  gayly,  but  by  the 
time  they  reached  the  place  where  I  stood  they  were 
silent,  their  movements  very  slow,  their  breathing  hard, 
and  faces  covered  with  profuse  perspiration.  This  was 
a  great  part  of  the  daily  labour  of  the  women  of  the 
{dace,  and  in  this  way  they  procured  enough  for  domes- 
tic use ;  but  every  horse,  mule,  or  cow  was  obliged  to  go 
by  a  circuitous  road  of  more  than  a  league  for  w^ater. 
Why  a  large  town  has  grown  up  and  been  continued  so 
tu  from  this  element  of  life,  I  do  not  know.  The  Span- 
iards found  it  a  large  Indian  village,  and  as  they  immedi- 
ately made  the  owners  of  the  soil  their  drawers  of  water, 
they  did  not  feel  the  burden ;  nor  do  their  descendants 
now. 


VOLCANO     OF     HASAT  A.  9 

In  the  mean  time  my  guide  arrived,  who,  to  my  great 
satisfaction,  was  no  less  a  personage  than  the  alcalde 
himself.  The  arrangements  were  soon  made,  and  I  was 
to  join  him  the  next  morning  at  his  house  in  Nindiri.  I 
gave  my  mules  and  Nicolas  a  day's  rest,  and  started  on 
Don  Sabino's  horse,  with  a  boy  to  act  as  guide  and  to 
carry  a  pair  of  alforgas  with  provisions.  In  half  an  hour 
I  reached  Nindiri,  having  met  more  people  than  on  my 
whole  road  from  San  Jos6  to  Nicaragua.  The  alcalde 
was  ready,  and  in  company  with  an  assistant,  who  carried 
a  pair  of  alforgas  with  provisions  and  a  calabash  of  water, 
all  mounted,  we  set  out.  At  the  distance  of  half  a  league 
we  left  the  main  road,  and  turned  off  on  a  small  path  in 
the  woods  on  the  left.  We  emerged  from  this  into  an 
open  field  covered  with  lava,  extending  to  the  base  of  the 
volcano  in  front  and  on  each  side  as  far  as  I  could  see, 
black,  several  feet  deep,  and  in  some  places  lying  in 
high  ridges.  A  fSaint  track  was  beaten  by  cattle  over 
this  plain  of  lava.  In  front  were  two  volcanoes,  from 
both  of  which  streams  of  lava  had  run  down  the  sides 
into  the  plain.  That  directly  in  front  my  guide  said  was 
the  Volcano  of  Masaya.  In  that  on  the  right,  and  fisr- 
thest  from  us,  the  crater  was  broken,  and  the  great 
chasm  inside  was  visible.  This  he  said  was  called  Yen* 
tero,  a  name  I  never  heard  before,  and  that  it  was  in* 
accessible.  Riding  toward  that  in  front,  and  crossing 
the  field  of  lava,  we  reached  the  foot  of  the  volcano. 
Here  the  grass  was  high,  but  the  ground  was  rough  and 
uneven,  being  covered  with  decomposed  lava.  We  as* 
cended  on  horseback  until  it  became  too  steep  for  the 
horses  to  carry  4is,  and  then  dismounted,  tied  them  to  a 
bush,  and  continued  on  foot.  I  was  already  uneasy  as 
to  my  guides'  knowledge  of  localities,  and  soon  found 
that  they  were  unwilling  or  unable  to  endure  much  &• 

Vol.  IL— B 


10  INCIDBKTfOPTBAVBL. 

tigue.  Before  we  were  half  way  up  they  disencumber- 
ed themselves  of  the  water*jar  and  provisions,  and  yet 
they  lagged  behind.  The  alcalde  was  a  man  alK>ut 
forty,  who  rode  his  own  horse,  and  being  a  man  of  con- 
sequence in  the  town,  I  could  not  order  him  to  go  fast- 
er ;  his  associate  was  some  ten  years  older,  and  physi- 
cally incapable ;  and  seeing  that  they  did  not  know  any 
particular  path,  I  left  them  and  went  on  alone. 

At  eleven  o'clock,  or  three  hours  from  the  village  of 
Nindiri,  I  reached  the  high  point  at  which  we  were 
aiming ;  and  from  this  point  I  expected  to  look  down 
into  the  crater  of  the  volcano ;  but  there  was  no  crater, 
and  the  whole  surface  was  covered  with  gigantic  mass- 
es of  lava,  and  overgrown  with  bushes  and  scrub  trees. 
I  waited  till  my  guides  came  up,  who  told  me  that  this 
was  the  Volcano  of  Masaya,  and  that  there  was  nothing 
more  to  see.  The  alcalde  insisted  that  two  years  before 
he  had  ascended  with  the  cura,  since  deceased,  and  a 
party  of  villagers,  and  they  all  stopped  at  this  place.  I 
was  disappointed  and  dissatisfied.  Directly  opposite 
rose  a  high  peak,  which  I  thought,  firom  its  position, 
must  command  a  view  of  the  crater  of  the  other  volca- 
no. I  attempted  to  reach  it  by  passing  round  the  cir- 
cumference of  the  mountain,  but  was  obstructed  by  an 
immense  chasm,  and  returning,  struck  directly  across. 
I  had  no  idea  what  I  ^vas  attempting.  The  whole  was 
covered  with  lava  lying  in  ridges  and  irregular  masses, 
the  surface  varying  at  every  step,  and  overgrown  with 
trees  and  bushes.  After  an  hour  of  the  hardest  work  I 
ever  had  in  my  life,  I  reached  the  point  at  which  I  aim- 
ed, and,  to  my  astonishment,  instead  of  ^eing  the  cra- 
ter of  the  distant  volcano,  I  was  on  the  brink  of  another. 

Among  the  recorded  wonders  of  the  discoveries  in 
America,  this  mountain  was  one ;  and  the  Spaniards, 


A     MONKISH     LSOEND.  11 

who  in  those  days  never  stopped  half  way  in  any  mat- 
ter that  touched  the  imagination,  called  it  El  Infierno 
de  Masaya,  or  the  Hell  of  Masaya.     The  historian,  in 
speaking  of  Nicaragua,  says,  '^  There  are  burning  mount- 
ains in  this  province,  the  chief  of  which  is  Masaya, 
where  the  natives  at  certain  times  offered  up  maids, 
throwing  them  into  it,  thinking  by  their  lives  to  appease 
the  fire,  that  it  might  not  destroy  the  country,  and  they 
went  to  it  very  chearful;"    and  in  another  place  he 
says,  '^  Three  leagues  from  the  city  of  Masaya  is  a  small 
hilly  flat  and  round,  called  Masaya,  being  a  burning 
Mountain,  the  Mouth  of  it  being  half  a  League  in  Com- 
{»88,  and  the  Depth  within  it  two  hundred  and  fifty 
Fathoms.     There  are  no  Trees  nor  Grass,  but  Birds 
build  without  any  Disturbance  from  the  Fire.     There 
is  another  Mouth  like  that  of  a  Well  about  a  Bowshot 
over,  the  distance  from  which  to  the  Fire  is  about  a 
hundred  and  fifty  Fathoms,  always  boiling  up,  and  that 
mass  of  Fire  often  rises  and  gives  a  great  Light,  so 
that  it  can  .be  seen  at  a  considerable  Distance.     It 
moves  from  one  Side  to  the  other,  and  sometimes  roars 
80  loud  that  it  is  dreadful,  yet  never   casts  up  any- 
thing but  Smoak  and  Flame.     The  Liquor  never  ceas- 
ing at  the  Bottom,  nor  its  Boiling,  imagining  the  same 
to  be  Gold,  F.  Blase  de  Yniegta,  of  the  Order  of  St. 
Dominick,  and  two  other  SpaniardSy  were  let  down  into 
the  first  Mouth  in  two  Baskets,  with  a  Bucket  made  of 
one  Piece  of  Iron,  and  a  long  Chain  to  draw  up  some  of 
that  fiery  Matter,  and  know  whether  it  vras  Metal. 
The  Chain  ran  a  hundred  and  fifty  Fathoms,  and  as 
soon  as  it  came  to  the  Fire,  the  Bucket  melted,  with 
some  Links  of  the  Chain,  in  a  very  short  Time,  and 
therefore  they  could  not  know  what  was  below.     They 
Uy  there  that  Night  without  any  Want  of  Fire  or  Can- 


12  INCIDENTS    OF    TRAYSL. 

dies,  and  came  out  again  in  their  Baskets  sufficiently 
frighted." 

Either  the  monk,  disappointed  in  his  search  for  gold, 
had  fibbed,  or  nature  had  made  one  of  its  most  extra- 
ordinary changes.  The  crater  was  about  a  mile  and  a 
half  in  circumference,  five  or  six  hundred  feet  deep, 
with  sides  slightly  sloping,  and  so  regular  in  its  propor- 
tions that  it  seemed  an  artificial  excavation.  The  bot- 
tom was  level,  both  sides  and  bottom  covered  with 
grass,  and  it  seemed  an  immense  conical  green  basin. 
There  were  none  of  the  fearful  marks  of  a  volcanic 
eruption;  nothing  to  terrify,  or  suggest  an  idea  of  el  in- 
fierno  ;  but,  on  the  contrary,  it  was  a  scene  of  singular 
and  quiet  beauty.  I  descended  to  the  side  of  the  cra- 
ter, and  walked  along  the  edge,  looking  down  into  the 
area.  Toward  the  other  end  was  a  growth  of  arbolitos 
or  little  trees,  and  in  one  place  no  grass  grew,  and  the 
ground  was  black  and  loamy,  like  mud  drying  up. 
This  was  perhaps  the  mouth  of  the  mysterious  well 
that  sent  up  the  flame,  which  gave  its  light  a  "  consider- 
able distance,"  into  which  the  Indian  maidens  were 
thrown,  and  which  melted  the  monk's  iron  bucket. 
Like  him,  I  felt  curious  to  "  know  what  was  below;" 
but  the  sides  of  the  crater  were  perpendicular.  Entirely 
alone,  and  with  an  hour's  very  hard  work  between  me 
and  my  guides,  I  hesitated  about  making  any  attempt  to 
descend,  but  I  disliked  to  return  without.  In  one  place, 
and  near  the  black  earth,  the  side  was  broken,  and 
there  were  some  bushes  and  scrub  trees.  I  planted  my 
gun  against  a  stone,  tied  my  handkerchief  around  it  as 
a  signal  of  my  whereabout,  and  very  soon  was  below 
the  level  of  the  ground.  Letting  myself  down  by  the 
aid  of  roots,  bushes,  and  projecting  stones,  I  descended 
to  a  scrub  tree  which  grew  out  of  the  side  about  half 


»^ 


DBSGSHT    tnro    TBS    OEATXR.  It 

way  from  the  bottom,  and  below  this  it  was  a  naked  and 
perpendicular  walL  It  was  impossible  to  go  any  farther. 
I  was  even  obliged  to  keep  on  the  upper  side  of  the  tree, 
and  here  I  was  more  anxious  than  ever  to  reach  the  bot* 
torn ;  but  it  was  of  no  use.  Hanging  midway,  impressed 
with  the  solitude  and  the  extraordinary  featuresof  a  scene 
upon  which  so  few  human  eyes  have  ever  rested,  and 
the  power  of  the  gireat  Architect  who  has  scattered  his 
wonderful  works  over  the  whole  face  of  the  earth,  I 
could  not  but  reflect,  what  a  waste  of  the  bounties  of 
Providence  in  this  Ceivonred  but  miserable  land !  JU 
home  this  volcano  would  be  a  fortune ;  with  a  good 
hotel  on  top,  a  railing  round  to  keep  children  from  fall- 
ing in,  a  zigzag  staircase  down  the  sides,  and  a  glass  of 
iced  lemonade  at  the  bottom.  Cataracts  are  goo<l 
property  with  people  who  know  how  to  turn  them  to 
account.  Niagara  and  Trenton  Falls  pay  well,  and 
the  owners  of  volcanoes  in  Central  America  might 
make  money  out  of  them  by  furnishing  facilities  to 
travellers.  Thii  one  could  probably  be  bought  for  teA 
dollars,  and  I  would  have  given  twice  that  sum  for  a 
rope  and  a  man  to  hold  it.  Meanwhile,  though  anx- 
ious to  be  at  the  bottom,  I  was  casting  my  eyes  wist- 
{ally  to  the  top.  The  turning  of  an  ankle,  breaking  of. 
a  branch,  rolling  of  a  stone,  or  a  failure  of  strength, 
might  put  me  where  I  should  have  been  as  hard  to  find 
as  the  government  of  Central  America*  I  commenced 
climbing  up,  slowly  and  with  care,  and  in  dne  tira# 
(nnled  myself  out  in  safety. 

On  my  right  was  a  foil  view  of  the  broken  crater  of 
the  Volcano  of  Nindiri.  The  side  tovrard  me  was 
hurled  down,  and  showed  the  whole  interior  of  the  cra- 
ter. .  This  the  alcalde  had  declared  inaccessible ;  and 
pBotdj  from  Atet-  qnte  agtinst  him,  I  worked  my  way 

2 


14  INOIDJiNTS    OP    TRATBL. 

to  it  with  extreme  labour  and  difficulty.  At  length,  after 
five  hours  of  most  severe  toil  among  the  rugged  heaps 
of  lava,  I  descended  to  the  place  where  we  had  left  our 
provisions.  Here  I  seized  the  calabash  of  water,  and 
stood  for  several  minutes  with  my  face  turned  yp  to  the 
skies,  and  then  I  began  upon  the  alcalde  and  the  eata- 
bles. Both  he  and  his  companion  expressed  theif  utter 
astonishment  at  what  I  described,  and  persisted  in  saying 
that  they  did  not  know  of  the  existence  of  such  a  place. 

I  dwell  upon  this  matter  for  the  benefit  of  any  future 
tnveller  who  may  go  out  competent  and  prepared  to 
explore  the  interesting  volcanic  regions  of  Central 
America.  Througliout  my  journey  my  labours  were 
much  increased  by  the  ignorance  and  indifference  of 
the  people  concerning  the  objects  of  interest  in  their  im- 
mediate neighbourhood.  A  few  intelligent  and  educa^ 
ted  men  know  of  their  existence  as  part  of  the  history 
of  the  country,  but  I  never  met  one  who  had  visited  the 
Volcano  of  Masaya ;  and  in  the  village  at  its  foot  the 
traveller  will  not  obtain  even  the  scanty  information  af- 
forded in  these  pages.  The  alcalde  was  born  near  this 
volcano;  from  boyhood  had  hunted  stray  cattle  on  its 
side,  and  told  me  that  he  knew  every  foot  of  the  ground ; 
yet  he  stopped  me  short  of  the  only  object  of  interest, 
ignorant,  as  he  said,  of  its  existence.  Now  cither  the 
alcalde  liedy  and  was  too  lazy  to  encounter  the  toil  which 
I  had  undergone,  or  he  was  imposing  upon  me.  In  ei- 
ther case  he  deserves  a  flogging,  and  I  beg  the  next 
traveller,  as  a  particular  favour  to  mc,  to  give  him  one. 

I  was  too  indignant  with  the  alcalde  to  have  anything 
fiurther  to  do  with  him ;  and  bent  upon  making  another 
attempt,  on  my  return  to  the  village  I  rode  to  the  house 
of  the  cura,  to  obtain  his  assistance  in  procuring. men 
and  making  other  needful  preparations.     On  the  steps 


▲    BLACK    FRIXST.  15 

of  the  back  piazza  I  saw  a  young  negro  man,  in  a  black 
gown  and  cap,  sitting  by  the  side  of  a  good-looking, 
well-dressed  white  woman,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  dis- 
coursing to  her  of  other  things  than  those  connected  with 
his  priestly  duties.  His  black  reverence  was  by  no 
means  happy  to  see  me.  I  asked  him  if  I  could  make 
an  inn  of  his  house,  which,  though  it  sounds  somewhat 
free,  is  the  set  phrase  for  a  traveller  to  use ;  and,  without 
rising  from  his  seat,  he  said  his  house  was  small  and  in* 
commodious,  and  that  the  alcalde  had  a  good  one.  He 
was  the  first  Uack  priest  I  had  seen,  and  the  only  one 
in  the  country  who  failed  in  hospitality.  I  must  confess 
that  I  felt  a  strong  impulse  to  lay  the  butt  of  a  pistol  over 
his  head ;  and  spurring  my  horse  so  that  he  sprang  al- 
most upon  him,  I  wheeled  short  and  galloped  out  of  the 
jrard.  With  the  alcalde  and  cura  both  against  me,  I  had 
no  chance  in  the  village.  It  ^vas  nearly  dark,  and  I  re- 
turned to  Masaya.  My  vexation  was  lost  in  a  sense  of 
overpowering  fatigue.  It  would  be  impossible  to  repeat 
the  severe  labour  of  the  day  without  an  interval  of  rest, 
and  there  was  so  much  difficulty  in  making  arrange* 
ments,  that  I  determined  to  mount  my  macho  and 
push  on. 

The  next  morning  I  resumed  my  journey.  My  mules 
had  not  been  watered.  To  send  them  to  the  lake  and 
back  would  give  them  a  journey  of  two  leagues ;  and 
to  save  them  I  bought  water,  which  was  measured  oat 
in  a  gourd  holding  about  a  quart.  At  about  a  league's 
distance  we  came  in  sight  of  the  Lake  of  Managua,  and 
before  us  the  whole  country  was  a  bed  of  lava  from  the 
base  of  the  volcano  to  the  lake.  I  met  a  travelling  par* 
ty,  the  principal  of  which  I  recognised  as  a  stranger. 
We  had  passed,  when  I  turned  round  and  accosted  him 
in  English;  and  after  looking  at  me  for  a  minute,  to 


16  IMCI1>XKT«    OF    TEAYXL. 

my  gr^ot  snrprise  he  called  me  by  name.  He  was  in 
American  named  Higgina,  whom  I  had  aeen  last  at  mj 
own  office  in  New- York.  He  was  coming  from  ReBih 
ejo,  and  was  on  his  way  to  San  Juani  with  the  intentioii 
of  embarking  for  the  United  States.  We  sent  our  lug- 
gage on  and  dismounted ;  and  besides  the  pleasure  of 
the  meeting,  I  am  under  great  obligation  to  him,  for  I 
was  riding  at  the  time  on  an  alvardo,  or  common  sad- 
die  of  the  country,  very  painful  for  one  not  used  to  it* 
My  own  saddle  hurt  my  macho ;  and  as  his  journey 
was  nearly  at  an  end,  he  gave  me  his  in  exchange,  which 
I  rode  on  after>vard  till  I  left  it  on  the  shores  of  Yuca- 
tan. He  gave  me,  too,  a  line  in  pencil  to  a  lady  in 
Leon,  and  I  charged  him  with  messages  to  my  frienda 
at  home.  When  he  rode  off  I  almost  envied  him ;  he 
was  leaving  behind  him  tumults  and  convulsions,  and 
was  going  to  a  quiet  home,  but  I  had  still  a  loug  and 
difficult  journey  before  me. 

In  about  three  hours,  after  a  desperately  hot  ride,  we 
reached  Managua,  beautifully  situated  on  the  banks  of 
the  lake.  Entering  through  a  collection  of  thatched 
huts,  we  passed  a  large  aristocratic  house,  with  a  court- 
yard occupying  a  whole  square,  the  mansion  of  an  ex* 
patriated  family,  decaying  and  going  to  ruin. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  I  walked  down  to  the  lake* 
It  was  not  so  grand  as  the  Lake  of  Nicaragua,  but  it 
was  a  noble  sheet  of  water,  and  in  full  sight  was  the 
Volcano  of  Momotombo.  The  shore  presented  the 
tame  animated  spectacle  of  women  filling  their  water- 
jars,  men  bathingi  horses  and  mules  drinking,  and  in 
one  place  was  a  range  of  fishermen's  huts ;  on  the  edge 
of  the  water  stakes  were  set  up  in  a  triangular  formi 
and  women  with  small  hand-nets  were  catching  fish, 
which  they  threw  into  hollow  places  dug,  or  raAa 


LAKE    OF    MAlfifOITA.  17 

•erapedy  in  the  8«nd.  The  fish  were  called  sardinitos, 
aod  at  the  door  of  the  hute  the  men  were  bnilding  firee 
to  cook  them.-  The  beauty  of  this  scene  was  enhanced 
by  the  reflection  that  it  underwent  no  change.  Here 
waa  perpetual  summer ;  no  i^inter  ever  came  to  drive 
the  inhabitahts  ahiyering  to  their  fires ;  but  still  it  may 
be  questioned  whether,  with  the  same  scenery  and  cli* 
matCi  wants  few  and  easily  supplied,  luxuriating  in  the 
q>en  air,  and  by  the  side  of  this  lovely  lake,  even  the 
descendants  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  race  would  not  lose 
their  energy  and  industry. 

This  lake  empties  into  the  Lake  of  Nicaragua  by  meana 
of  the  River  Tipitapa,  and  another  communication  be* 
tween  the  two  seas  has  been  spoken  of  by  means  of  a 
canal  from  it  to  the  Pacific  at  the  port  of  Realejo.  The 
ground  is  perfectly  level,  and  the  port  is  perhaps  the 
best  in  Spanish  .America ;  but  the  distance  is  sixty 
miles,  and  there  are  other  difficulties  which  it  seeins  to 
me  are  insuperable^  The  River  Tipitapa  has  been  rep- 
resented,  as  navigable  the  whole  length  for  the  largest 
ships ;  but  no  survey  was  ever  made  until  Mr.  Bailey's, 
according  to  which  it  is  thirty  miles  in  length.  Begin- 
ing  at  the  Lake  of  Nicaragua,  for  twenty-four  miles  the 
water  is  from  one  to  three  fathcmis  in  depth.  Above 
this  there  are  rapids,  and  at  the  distance  of  four  and  a 
half  miles  a  fall  of  thirteen  feet.  The  whole  rise  within 
the  six  miles  is  twenty-eight  feet  eight  inches.  The 
Lake  of  Managua,  from  observation  and  information 
without  survey,  is  about  fifteen  leagues  long  and  thirty* 
five  in  circumference,  and  averages  ten  fathoms  of  wa- 
ter. There  is  not  a  single  stream  on  the  contemplated 
line  of  canal  from  this  lake  to. the  Pacific,  and  it  would 
be  necessary  for  this  lake  to  furnish  the  whole  supply 
a£  water  for  commanicatioa  with  both  oceans.  « 

VoL.n. 


IS  INCIDIHTS    OF    TKATBL. 

At  three  o'clock  the  next  morniiig  we  started*  Ia 
aU  the  tierras  calientes  it  is  the  cuBtom  to  travel  at 
night,  or,  rather,  very  early  in.  the  morning.  At  eight 
o'clock  we  entered  the  village  of  Mateares,  where  we 
procured  some  eggs  and  breakfasted.  From  this  villagif 
our  road  lay  directly  along  the  lake,  but  a  few  paces 
from  the  shore,  and  shaded  by  noble  trees.  Unfortu- 
nately, we  were  obliged  to  turn  oif  to  avoid  a  large 
lock  which  had  rolled  down  several  months  before,  and 
probably  blocks  up  the  road  still ;  this  brought  us  round 
by  the  Cucsta  del  Relox,  so  called  from  a  venerable 
sundial  which  stands  on  one  side  of  the  road,  of  a  dark 
gray  stone,  with  an  inscription  in  Castilian,  but  the 
oharacters  so  worn  and  indistinct  that  I  could  not  make 
them  out.  It  has  no  history  except  that  it  was  erected 
by  the  conquerors,  and  it  stands  as  an  indication  of  the 
works  with  which  the  Spaniards  began  the  settlement 
of  the  country. 

At  half  past  eleven  we  left  the  lake  for  the  last  tune^ 
and  entered  an  open  plain.  We  rode  an  hour  longer, 
and  reached  Nagarotis,  a  miserable  village,  its  houses 
built  partly  of  mud,  with  yards  in  front,  trodden  bare 
by  mules,  and  baked  white  by  the  sun.  I  entered  one 
ot  the  houses  for  shelter,  and  found  in  it  a  young  negro 
ptiest  on  his  way  to  Carthagena,  with  orders  from  the 
Cburoh  at  Leon.  The  house  was  occupied  by  an  old 
man  alone.  It  bad  a  bedstead  with  a  mat  over  it,  upon 
which  I  lay  down,,  g^d  to  rest  a  while,  and  to  escape 
the  scorching  heat.  Opposite  the  bed  was  a  mde  frame 
about  six  feet  high,  on  the  top  of  which  was  a  sort  of 
babyhouse,  with  the  figure  of  the  Virgin  sitting  on  a 
cbaii^  and  dressed  in  cheap  finery. 

At  thiee  we  started  again.     The  sun  had  lost  some 
ot  its  force,  the  road  was  wooded,  and  I  observed  more 


than  the  usual  muBbet  ot  orosies.  Tke  people  of  Nio* 
arqgua  fute  eaid  to  b^  the  wont  ia  the  republic  The 
inhabitante  of  the  other  states  always  caution  a  stran^ 
ger  against  them,  and  they  are  proportionally  devout. 
Everywheroi  in  the  oitiee  and  country,  on  the  tops  of 
mountains^  and  by.  the  side  of  rivers,  these  memorials 
stared  me  in  the  jEace.  I  noticed  one  in  a  cleared  place 
1^  the  roadside,  painted  black,  with  a  black  board  sus* 
pended  to  it,  containing  an  inscription  in  faded  white 
letters ;  it  had  been  erected  to  the  memory  of  a  padre 
who  had  been  ;aiirdered  and  buried  at  its  foot.  I  etopf 
ped  to  copy  the  inscription,  and  while  so  engaged  saw 
a  travelling  party  approaching,  and  knowing  the  jeal* 
easy  of  the  people,  shut  my  notebook  and  rode  on. 
The  party  consistsd  of  two  men,  with  their  servants^ 
and  a  woman.  The  younger  man  accosted  me,  and 
said  that  he  had  seen  me  at  Grenada,  and  regretted 
that  he  had  not  known  of  my  proposed  journey ^  Fiom 
die  etyle  of  his  dress  and  equipments  I  supposed  him 
to  be  a  gentleman,  and  was  sure  of  it  from  the  circum* 
stance  of  bis  carrying  a  gamecock  under  his  arm.  A» 
we  rode.  CO  the  conversation  turned  upon  these  intereel* 
mg  birds,  and  I  learned  that  my  new  acquaintance  wee 
going  to  Leon  to  fight  a  match,  of  which  he  offered  to 
give  me  notice.  The  bird  which  he  carried  had  won- 
thiee  matches  in  Grenada ;  its  fame  had  reached  Leon, 
and  drawn  fiirth  a  cballeage  from  that  place.  It  wsm 
rolled  up  as  carefully  as  a  fraetured  leg,  with  nothing 
but  the  head  end  tail  visible;  and  snspended  by  a  strings 
was  as. easily  canied  as  a  basket.  The  young  mln 
sig^ked  Cfret  the  miseries  of  the  country,  the  distress  and 
ruin  caosed  by  the  wars,  and  represented  the  jut  a| 
Grenada  as  being  in  a  deplorable  condition;  but  in 
Ijeoa  hflf  .said  it  was  very  flonrishingy  oa  account  of  its 


mCIBVKTS    OV    TBATBL. 

being  the  headquarters  of  the  military.  The  bnildiiig'y 
too,  did  honour  to  the  city ;  it  was  only  oipen  on  Sun* 
days;  but  he  knew  the  pn^rietor,  and  could  at  any 
time  make  an  arrangement  for  a  match.  He  made 
many  inquiries  about  the  state  of  the  science  in  my 
country  ;  told  me  that  he  had  imported  two  cocks  from 
England,  which  were  game  enough,  but  not  sufficiently 
heavy  for  theirs ;  and  gave  me,  besides,  much  valuable 
information  on  this  subject,  of  which  I  neglected  to 
make  any  memorandum. 

Before  dark  we  reached  Pueblo  Nnevo,  and  all  went 
to  the  same  poseda.  His  companion  was  not  so  much 
of  a  sportsman,  though  he  knew  the  qualities  of  a  good 
bird,  and  showed  a  familiarity  in  handling  them.  It 
was  the  first  time  I  had  fallen  in  with  travellers  for  the 
night.  I  have  avoided  details  in  all  places  where  I  was 
partaking  of  private  hospitality,  but  this  was  like  a  ho^ 
tel  at  home,  in  the  main  point  that  all  were  expected 
to  pay.  We  had  for  supper  poached  eggs  and  beans, 
without  plate,  knife,  fork,  or  spoon.  My  companions 
used  their  tortillas  to  take  up  an  egg,  and  also,  by  turn- 
ing up  the  edges,  to  scoop  out  frigoles  from  the  dish ; 
withal,  they  were  courteous  and  gentlemanly.  We  had 
a  species  of  chocolate,  made  of  pounded  cocoa  and 
sweetened,  and  served  in  hickories,  which,  having  bot« 
toms  like  the  butts  of  large  eggs,  could  not  stand  on  the 
table.  My  companions  twisted  their  pocket-handker- 
chieft,  and  winding  them  on  the  table  in  circular  folds, 
set  the  hiekories  inside  the  hollow,  and  one  of  them  did 
the  same  with  my  handkerchief  for  me.  After  supper 
the  younger  of  the  two  dressed  the  birds  in  their  robea 
de  nmt,  a  cotton  cloth  wound  tight  around  the  body, 
compressing  the  wings,  and  then,  with  a  string  fastened 
to  the  back  of  the  cloth,  so  that  the  body  vras  balanced^ 


▲    VIQUT  B    LODOflffO.  SI 

hooked  each  of  them  to  the  hammock.     While  he  was 
preparing  them  the  woman  was  showing  horn  combS| 
beads,  earrings,  and  rosaries,  and  entrapped  the  daugh- 
ter of  the  host  into  the  purchase  of  a  comb.     The  house 
had  an  unusrial  influx  of  company.     The  young  man, 
the  female  merchant,  and  I  do  not  know  how  many  of 
the  family,  slept  in  a  back  room.     The  elder  traveller 
offered  me  the  hammock,  but  I  preferred  the  long  chest, 
made  from  the  trunk  of  a  tree,  which  in  erery  house  in 
Nicaragua  served  as  a  sort  of  cupboard. 


9S  iMciirsNTs  or  rmATBL. 


CHAPTER  n. 

Beautifal  Plain.— Leon.— Stroll  throogfa  tb«  Town.— Bafleful  Efteti  tt  Fnty 
Spirit.— ScroAt  of  Horror.— UnpIeMant  Intelligence.— Jooroey  contioaodd— 
A  fastidioaf  Beggar.— Chinandega.— Gulf  of  Conchagua.— Visit  to  Realeji^— 
Cotton  Factory.— Harboor  of  Realejo.— EI  Viejo.— Port  of  Naguiicolo.— Im- 
poUance  of  a  Paaeport- Embarking  Mulea.— A  Bongo.— Volcano  of  CeiCfDi» 
na.— Eruption  of  1835.— La  Union. 

At  two  o'clock  we  were  awakened  by  the  crowing  of 
the  cocks,  and  at  three  the  cargo-mules  were  loaded 
and  we  set  off.  The  road  was  level  and  wooded,  but 
desperately  dusty.  For  two  hours  after  daylight  we 
had  shade,  when  we  came  upon  an  open  plain,  bounded 
on  the  Pacific  side  by  a  low  ridge,  and  on  the  right  by 
a  high  range  of  mountains,  forming  part  of  the  great 
chain  of  the  Cordilleras.  .  Before  us,  at  a  great  distance, 
rising  above  the  level  of  the  plain,  we  saw  the  spires  of 
the  Cathedral  of  Leon.  This  magnificent  plain,  in  rich- 
ness  of  soil  not  surpassed  by  any  land  in  the  world,  lay 
as  desolate  as  when  the  Spaniards  first  traversed  it. 
The  dry  season  was  near  its  close  ;  for  four  months  there 
had  been  no  rain,  and  the  dust  hung  around  us  in  thick 
clouds,  hot  and  fine  as  the  sands  of  Egypt.  At  nine 
o'clock  we  reached  Leon,  and  I  parted  from  my  com- 
panions, but  not  without  a  courteous  invitation  from  the 
younger  to  take  up  my  rest  at  the  house  of  his  brother. 
The  suburbs  were  more  miserable  than  anything  I  had 
yet  seen.  Passing  up  a  long  street,  across  which  a  sen- 
tinel was  patrolling,  I  saw  in  front  of  the  quartel  a 
group  of  vagabond  soldiers,  a  match  for  Carrera's,  who 
cried  out  insolently, "  Quitese  su  sombrero,"  "  Take  off 
your  bat"    I  had  to  traverse  the  whole  extent  of  the 


Air    VHCITIL    VOtTSSS.  M 

• 

eity  before  I  reached  the  house  to  which  I  had  been 
recommended.     I  dismounted,  and  entered  it  with  con- 
fidence of  a  warm  reception;  but  the  lady,  with  consid- 
erable expediifon,  told  me  that  her  husband  was  not  at 
bome.     I  gave  her  a  note  with  which  I  had  been  fur- 
nished, addressed  to  herself;  but  she  said  she  could  not 
lead  English,  and  handed  it  back.     I  translated  it  word 
for  word,  being  a  request  that  she  would  give  me  lodg- 
mgB.     Her  brow  actually  knit  with  vexation ;  and  she 
add  she  had  but  one  spare  room,  and  that  was  re- 
wrred  for  the  English  vice-consul  from  Realejo.     I  an- 
swered that  the  vice-consul  did  not  intend  leaving  Re- 
akjo  for  the  present.     She  asked  me  how  long  I  intend- 
ed to  stay ;  and  when  I  replied  only  that  ni^t,  she 
nid  that  if  such  was  the  case  I  might  remain.     The 
reader  will  perhaps  wonder  at  my  want  of  spirit;  but 
the  fact  is,  I  was  loth  to  consider  any  incivility  peraon- 
sL    My  only  alternative  was  to  seek  out  the  young 
ntitn  whose  invitation  I  had  declined,  and  whose  name 
I  did  not  know,  or  to  ask  admission  from  door  to  door. 
It  lis  saic^that  women  are  governed  by  appearancesi 
aad  mine  was  not  very  seductive.     My  dress  was  the 
■sme  with  which  I  had  left  Grenada,  soiled  by  the  as-» 
cent  of  the  Volcano  of  Masaya,  and  now  covered  with 
ifitL    Making  the  most  of  my  moderate  wardrobe,  on 
mj  reappearance  I  was  more  favourably  received.     At 
least  I  ha^  a  capital  breakfast ;  and  as  it  was  very  hot, 
and  I  wanted  to  rest,  I  remained  in  doors  and  jdayed 
with  the  children.     At  dinner  I  had  the  seat  of  honour> 
at  the  head  at  the  table,  and  had  made  such  progressi 
that,  If  I  had  desired  it,  I  would  have  ventured  to  broach 
the  subject  of  remaining  another  day ;  and  I  owe  it  to 
the  lady  to  say,  that,  having  assented  to  my  remaiaingi 


^ 

* 


'■A 


r. 


XVOIBBHTf    OF    TSATBL. 

die  treated  me  with  great  civility  and  attention^  aad 
particularly  nsed  great  exertions  in  procuring  me  a 
guide  to  enable  me  to  set  out  the  next  day. 

After  dinner  Nicolas  came  to  my  roam,  and  with 
uplifted  hands  cried  out  against  the  people  of  LecMiy 
Gente  indecente,  sin  verguenza  (literally),  indecent  peo- 
ple, without  shame.  He  had  been  hooted  in  the  streets, 
and  had  heard  such  stories  of  the  state  of  the  country 
before  us  that  he  wanted  to  return  home.  I  was  ax- 
tremely  loth  to  make  another  change,  and  partieularly 
for  any  of  the  assassin-looking  scoundrels  whom  I  had 
seen  on  my  entry ;  but  I  did  not  like  the  responsibility 
of  taking  him  against  his  will,  and  told  him  that  if  he 
would  procure  me  two  honest  men  he  might  leave  me* 
I  had  advanced  him  more  than  was  due,  but  I  had  a 
aecurity  against  his  deserting  me  in  his  iqpprehensioa 
of  being  taken  for  a  soldier. 

This  over,  I  walked  out  to  take  a  view  of  the  town. 
It  had  an  appearance  of  old  and  aristocratic  respecta- 
bility, which  no  other  city  in  Central  America  possess- 
ed. The  houses  were  large,  and  many  of  the  fronts 
"were  full  of  stucco  ornaments ;  the  plaza  was  spacnous, 
aad  the  squares  of  the  churches  and  the  churches  them- 
•elves  magnificent.  It  was  the  seat  of  a  bishopric,  and 
distinguished  for  the  costliness  of  its  churches  and  cm% 
vents,  its  seats  of  learning,  and  its  men  of  sciencci  down 
to  the  time  of  its  revolution  against  Spain ;  but  in  walk- 
ing through  its  streets  I  saw  palaces  in  which  nobles 
bad  lived  dismantled  and  roofless,  and  occupied  by 
half-starved  wretches,  pictures  of  misery  and  want ;  and 
on  one  side  an  immense  field  of  ruins,  covering  half  the 
oity. 

Almost  immediately  on  the  establishment  of  inde- 


^adeflM,  md  fb«  dmvriiig  of  the  fSMt  partgc-lioM  hm 
tweeA  tlie  Centralfarit  mud  PedMalists,  die  State  of  Nio» 
eragtia  beceikiB  the^  theatre  of  a  furiooe  struggle.     In  eH 
unfertimtfle'l^ottr  the  people  elected  a  Central  governor 
end  LibeMd>«fice»goTeni<Nr.     A  ditided  adoiinistnUiiNi 
led  Ir drawing  of  blood  and  the  most  sangukiery  ooQf> 
fliet  kaown  in  civil  ware.     Inch  by  inch  the  grouad 
iwas  disputed,  till  the  whole  physical  force  and  deadly 
inknoaity  of  the  stale  were  conoeotrated  in  the  o^pilaL 
The  -eontending  parties  fought  np  to  the  very  heart  of 
the  city ;  the  ^streets  were  beirioaded,  and  for  three 
moBliia  net  a  persoa  could  pass  the  line  without  beiag 
•hot  at*'    Scenes  ol  horror  surpassing  human  belief  ase 
frerii  in  the:  memory  of  tihe  inhabitants.     The  Ijiberali 
prevailed ;  the  Central  ehfef  was  killed,  his  teoes  mea* 
aMcred^-  and  ia  the  phrensy  of  the  momeat,  the  part  of 
the  eity  occupied  by  the  Oantralists  was  buwfd  aal 
hoed  te  the' ground;  besides  the  bbod  of  murdered 
eitiaMnSy  4k»  tears  and  cursss  o£  widowa  and  orphaB% 
the  vietom  had  the  rieh  eafoyment  of  a  desolated  ooush 
try  and  a  ruined  oapitaL  ^The  same  ruthless  spirit  atiU 
charwteriaed  the  kihaUtants  of  Lem.    The  heeaes  of 
fklgllBegelpi^  wlthiKit  a  single  {msner  bb  »  monrnniait 
ef  Dlherey^^  i>ad  been  received  with  ringing  of  bells  and 
ftringof  HMmon,  and  other  demonstrations  of  joy,  and 
A^  were^  still  in  the  city,  flushed  with  their  brutal  vio« 
loryi  milT'iAxions  to  be  led  on  to  more  such  triumphs.  / 
I  mttet  confess  that  I  felt  a  degree  of  uneasiness  Jea 
wuBriiig  ihtl  streets  of  Leon  that  I  never  felt  in  any  eity 
in  the  Bast.     My  change  of  dress  did  not  make  my 
presence  more  acceptable,  and  the  ea^e  on  my  hat  aim 
tracted  particular  attention.     At   every  corner  was  a 
group  of  scoundrels,  who  stared  at  me  as  if  disposed  ta 
pick  a  quarrel.    With  some  my  official  character  viade 
Vol.  n.— D  3 


* 


iSdOi^Birrs  or  tsatbl. 


me  an  object  of  suspicion ;  for  in  their  disgrsceliil  fights 
they  thought  that  the  eyes  of  the  whole  world  were  upon 
them,  and  that  England,  France,  and  the  United  States 
were  secretly  contending  for  the  possessMm  of  their  iop 
tsieiting  country.  I  intended  to  pay  a  visit  to  the  chief 
of  the  state ;  but,  afraid  of  being  insulted  or  getting  into 
some  difficulty  that  might  detain  me,  I  returned  to  the 
house. 

By  means  of  the  servants  Nicolas  had  found  two  men 
who  vrere  willing  to  accompany  me,  bull  I  did  not  like 
their  looks,  or  even  to  let  them  know  when  I  intended  to 
set  out.  I  had  hardly  disposed  of  them  before  my  guide 
tame  to  advise  me  not  to  set  out  the  next  day,  as  five 
hmdred  soldiers,  who  had  been  making  preparations 
fef  several  days,  were  to  inarch  the  next  nooming 
against  6an  Salvador.  This  was  most  unpleasant  ii^ 
lalligence.  I  did  not  wish  to  travel  vrith  themi  or  to 
fsU  in  with  them  on  the  road ;  and  calculating  that  their 
flMToh  would  be  slower  than  mine,  told  the  guide  to  as- 
Mrtaln  thehr  time  for  staning,  and  we  would  set  out 
iwo  hoars  before  them.  Nicolas  went  out  with  him  to 
take  the  mules  to  water ;  but  they  returned  in  great  haste, 
with  intelligence  that  piquets  were  scouring  the  city  lor 
men  and  mules,  and  had  entered  the  yard  of  a  padre 
near  by  and  taken  three  of  his  animals.  The  lady  of 
the  house  ordered  all  the  doors  to  be  locked  and  the 
keys  brought  to  her,  and  an  hour  before  dark  we  were 
•H  shut  in,  and  my  poor  mules  went  without  water. 

At  about  eight  o'clock  we  heard  the  tramp  of  cavaiiy 
in  the  streets,  and  gathering  inside  the  doorway,  eaw 
about  six  hundred  men  taking  up  their  line  of  march. 
There  was  no  music,  no  shouting,  no  waving  of  hand- 
kerchiefs, to  cheer  them  as  defenders  of  their  country 
or  as  adventorers  in  the  road  to  glory ;  but  in  the  dark, 


;■* 


and  taratbotfdy  their. treitd  seamed  eteelthy;  people 
looked  at  them  with  fear ;  and  k  aeemed  rather  the  ■aliif 
oC  m  band  of  coiuqpiratoni  than  a  march  by  the  soldiera 
<rf  a  republie.^ 

My  muleteer  did  not  return  till  daylight  the  next 
morning*  Fortunately  fcMrufi,  he  had  learned  that  the 
troops  were  destined  on  another,  but  even  a  more  in- 
glorious expedition.  Expenses  had  been  incurred  ii| 
sending  troops  into  Honduras,  of  which  Grenada  refu^ 
led  to  pay  its  portion,  on  the  ground  that,  by  the  con- 
stitution, it  was  not  liable  except  for  expenses  incurred 
in  defending  the  borders  of  its  own  state.  This  was 
admitled;  but  the  expense  hcul  been  incurred;  Leon 
had  fought  the  battle,  and  had  the  same  materials  with 
which  she  gained  it  to  enforce  the  contribution.  In  or- 
der  that  Grenada  might  be  taken  unawares,  it  was  given 
out  that  the  troopewere  destined  for  San  Salvador,  and 
they,  were  actually  marched  out  on  the  San  Salvador 
road;  but  at  midnight  made  a  circuit,  and  took  the 
route  for  Grenada.  War  between  different  states  was 
bad  enough,  but  here  the  flame  which  had  before  laid 
the  capital  in  ruins  was  lighted  again  within  its  own 
borders.  What  the  result  of  this  expedition  was  I 
never  heard;  but  probably,  taken  unawares  and  without 
arms,  Grenada  was  compelled  by  bayonets  to  pay  what| 
by  the  constitution,  she  was  not  bound  to  pay. 

Outtt^e  of  Leon,  and  once  more  on  the  back  of  my 
macho,  I  breathed  more  freely.  Nicolas  was  induced 
to  continue  by  hearing  that  there  was  a  vessel  at  Realejo 
for  Costa  Rica,  and  I  hoped  to  find  one  for  Zonzonata. 
The  great  plain  of  Leon  was  even  more  beautiful  than 
before ;  too  beautiful  for  the  thankless  people  to  whom 
the  bounty  of  Providence  had  given  it.  On  the  loft 
muB  the  same  low  ridge  separaling  it  from  thet  Paoifie 


rvoinviCTs  or  vm,Ar9U 

Ooettii  And  on  the  right  the  great  range  of  C!ordiIlera% 
lirniinated  bjr  the  Tolcano  of  the  Viejo. 
'  I  had  passed  through  the  yillage  of  Chiohuapa  when 
I  heard  a  cry  of  ^'  caballero''  behind  me^  and  turning, 
Sftw  divers  people  waving  their  bands,  and  a  woman 
fanning,  almost  out  of  breath,  with  a  pocket-handker- 
chief which  I  had  left  at  the  house  where  I  breakfasted* 
I  vras  going  on,  when  a  respectable-looking  gentleman 
stopped  me,  with  many  apologies  for  the  liberty,  and 
asked  for  a  medio,  sixpence.  I  gave  him  one,  which 
he  examined  and  handed  back,  saying,  **  No  corre,'' 
**  it  does  not  pass."  It  was  always,  in  paying  moneyi 
a  matter  of  course  to  have  two  or  three  pieces  return- 
ed, and  this  I  sometimes  resisted ;  but  as  in  this  land 
everything  was  al  reverso,  it  seemed  regular  for  beg- 
gars to  be  choosers,  and  I  gave  him  another. 

My  stopping-place  was  at  the  house  of  Mr.  Bridges^ 
an  Englishman  from  one  of  the  West  India  Islands, 
who  had  been  resident  in  the  country  many  years,  and 
was  married  to  a  lady  of  Leon,  but,  on  account  of  the 
convulsions  of  the  country,  lived  on  his  hacienda.  The 
soil  was  rich  for  cotton  and  sugar,  and  Mr.  B.  said  that 
bere  fifty  men  could  manufacture  sugar  cheaper  than 
two  hundred  in  the  islands ;  but  the  difficulty  was,  no 
reliance  could  be  placed  npon  Indian  labour.  Here 
again,  thanks  to  the  kindness  of  Mr.  B.  and  his  lady, 
and  the  magnificent  wildness  of  hacienda  lifci  I  could 
have  passed  several  days  with  much  satisfSaction ;  but  I 
itopped  only  for  dinner,  after  which  Mr.  B.  acoompa* 
died  me  to  Chinandaga. 
p  As  usual,  my  first  business  was  to  make  arrange- 

^'  ments  for  continuing  my  journey.    My  whole  road  was 

doiig  the  coast  of  the  Pacific,  but  beyond  this  the 
GWf  of  CoDohagna  made  a  large  indentation  in  the 


1 


A    OOTTOir    TAV     OET«^- 

kad,  wlrieli  il  was  customary  to  eross  in  a  bongo,  send- 
ing the  mules  around  thei  head  of  the  gulf,  I  was  ad* 
▼ised  that  the  hitter  was  haaardous,  as  the  Honduras 
troops  were  marching  upon  Ban  Salvador,  and  would 
seiae  them*  I  might  save  them  by  going  myself;  but 
it  was  a  journey  of  six  days,  through  a  country  so  des» 
olate  that  it  was  necessary  to  carry  food  for  the  mules  ^ 
and  as  I  had  still  a  long  road  beyond,  I  felt  it  necessa- 
ry to  economize  my  strength.  I  was  loth  to  run  the 
risk  of  losing  my  mules,  and  »ent  a  courier  to  El 
Viqo,  where  the  owners  of  the  bungoes  lived,  to  hire 
the  largest,  determined  to  run  the  risk  of  taking  them 
with  me.  The  next  morning  the  courier  returned,  hav* 
ing  ]vocured  a  bungo,  to  be  ready  the  next  evening, 
•nd  with  a  message  from  the  owner  that  the  embarca* 
tion  most  be  at  my  risk. 

Obliged  to  wait  the  day,  after  breakfSast  I  started  fov* 
Baalega  On  the  way  I  met  Mr.  Foster,  the  English 
viee-oonsnl,  coming  to  see  me.  He.  turned  back,  and 
tosk  me  first  to  the  maquina  or  cotton  factory,  of  which 
I  had  heard  much  on  the  rood.  It  was  the  only  one  in 
the  country,  and  owed  its  existence  to  the  enterprise  of 
a  countryman,  having  been  erected  by  Mr.  Higgins, 
who,  disappointed  in  his  expectations,  or  disgusted  with 
the  cooDtry  from  other  causes,  sold  it  to  Don  Francisca 
and  Mr.  Foster.  They  were  sanguine  in  their  expeda* 
tions  of  profit;  for  tney  supposed  that,  by  furnishing  a 
market,  the  peojde  would  be  induced  to  work  and  raise 
eotton  enough  for  exportation  to  Earope.  The  re» 
sources  of  this  distracted  country  ate  incalculable. 
Peace  and  industry  would  open  fountains  which  would 
overflow  with  wealth ;  and  I  have  no  doubt  the  influ- 
ence of  this  single  factory  will  be  felt  in  quieting  and 
esriohing  the  whole  district  within  its  reach» 


IlfCISEKTI    OT    TBATBL. 


<  I  fKMMunpaiiied  Mr.  Focter  to  Realejo,  which  ww  only 
htlf  an  hour's  ride.  The  harbour,  Huanoa  saya,  k 
aspable  of  containing  a  thousand  ships ;  but,  being  two 
0i  three  leagues  distant,  I  was  unable  to  visit  it.  The 
town,  consisting  of  two  or  three  streets,  with  low  stragi* 
glfaig  houses,  enclosed  by  a  thick  forest,  was  founded 
by  a  few  of  the  companions  of  AJyarado,  who  stopped 
Aere  on  their  expedition  to  Peru ;  but,  being  so  near 
die  sea,  and  exposed  to  the  incursions  of  the  bucaniers, 
die  inhabitants  moved  inland,  and  founded  Leon. 

At  dark  we  returned  to  the  factory,  and  Don  Fran*- 
nisco  and  I  reached  Chlnandego,  where  I* was  greeted 
with  intelligence  that  the  proprietor  of  the  boat  had  sent 
Wotd  that  he  supposed  I  had  a  p^nnission  to  embark 
from  the  chief  of  the  state,  aa,  by  a  lute  order,  no  per- 
son  could  embark  without.  He  was  most  provokingiy 
out  in  his  supposition.  I  had  entered  the  state  by  a 
iNMllier  of  wilderness,  and  had  not  once  been  asked  for 
a- passport.  The  reader  may  remember  how  I  was  pre» 
tented  visiting  the  chief  of  the  sta/.e ;  and,  besides,  when 
at  Leon^  I  did  not  know  whether  I  should  continue  by 
Itad  or  cross  the  gulf,  and  supposed  that  at  the  port  of 
ambaioBtiidii  I  could  procure  all  that  was  necessary.  I 
was  excessively  disturbed ;  but  Don  Francisco  sent  for 
the  commandant  of  the  town,  who  said  that  the  order  had 
■et  yet  been  sent  to  the  port,  but  was  in  his  hands,  and 
he  vrould  retain  it. 

Early  the  next  morning  I  sent  on  an  ox  wagon  with 
the  luggage  aad  a  stock  of  com  and  grass  for  the  moles 
dafefaig  the  voyage,  and,  after  a  pleasant  ride  of  a  league, 
vsaohed  the  Viejo^  one  of  the  most  re0pectable4ooking 
towns  in  Nicaragua.  The  house  of  the  owner  of  the 
tang6  was  one  of  the  largest  in  the  place,  and  furnbh* 
ad  with  two  mahogany  sofas  made  by  a  Yankee  oabi-> 


■  i 


^•ar    OF.  STAfO-.CMiG^LO. 

MtimafciT  in  IjinMi,  two  looking^iisw  with  gilt  framet^ 
ft  French  clocki  gilt  chair*  with  cane  bottoms,  and  two 
Boston  focking-chairs^  which  had  made  the  paaBage 
wiBid  Cape  Horn.  Don  Francisco  went  over  to  die 
eotaunandaot*  He,  unluekilj,  had  received  his  ordeis 
direct  from  the  goTernment,  and  dared  not  let  me  pass. 
l  went  over  myself  with  Mr.  Foster.  The  order  was 
positive,  and  I  was  in  agony.  Here  I  made  a  push  with 
my  official  character,  and  after  an  hour's  torment,  by 
the  vrarm  help  of  Mr.  Foster,  and  upon  his  undertaking 
to  saTo  the  commandant  harmless,  and  to  send  an  ex* 
press  immediately  to  licon  for  a  passport  from  the  chid 
tf  the  state,  it  was  agreed,  that  in  the  mean  time  I  might 
gDon. 

I  did  not  wait  long,  bat,  taking  leave  of  Mr.  Foster 
sod  Don  Franciaoo,  set  out  for  the  port.     It  was  seven 
leagues,  through  an  unbroken  forest.    On  the  way  I 
overtook  my  bungo  men,  nearly  naked,  mowig  in  sin- 
fjm  file,  with  the  pilot  at  their  head,  and  each  carr]ring 
on  his  back  an  open  network  containing  tortillas  and 
provisions  for  the  voyage.     At  half  past  two  we  reacb- 
td  the  port  of  Naguiscolo^   There  was  a  single  hut,  at 
which  a  woman  was  washing  com,  with  a  naked  child 
near  her  on  the  ground,  its  face,  arms,  and  body  one 
tunning  sore,  a  picture  of  squalid  poverty.     In  front 
was  a  large  muddy  plain,  through  the  centre  of  ^htch 
lan  a  straight  cut  called  a  canal,  with  an  embankment 
eoL  one  side  dry,  the  mud  baked  hard  and  bleached  by 
the.  suiu    In  this  ditch  lay  several  bungoes  high  and 
dry,  adding  to.  the  ugliness  of  the  picture.     I  had  a 
CseUng  of  great  aatisfiBiction  that  I  was  not  obliged  to  re- 
main there  long;  but  the  miserable  woman,  with  a  tone 
of  Toioe  that  seemed  to  rejoice  in  the  chance  of  making 
efthera  as  miserable  as  herself^  desisted  from  washing 


tt  IKCIBBlirS    OF    TWLAYMts. 

her  meixe,  and  sereeohed  in  my  ean  that  'a  gmrda  had 
been  sent  direct  from  the  capital,  with  orders  to  let  no 
•ne  embark  without  a  passport.  The  guarda  had  gone 
down  the  river  in  a  canoe,  in  search  ci  a  bungo  which 
hod  attempted  to  go  awaj  withoot  a  passport ;  and  I 
walked  down  the  bank  of  the  canal  in  hope  to  eatch  him 
alone  when  he  returned.  The  sun  was  scorching  hot, 
and  as  I  passed  the  buogoes  the  boatmen  asked  me  if  I 
had  a  passport.  At  the  end  of  the  canal,  under  the  shade 
of  a  large  tree,  were  two  women ;  and  they  had  been  in 
that  place  three  days,  waiting  for  one  of  their  party  who 
had  gone  to  Leon  to  procure  a  passport. 

It  was  more  than  an  hour  before  the  guarda  appeat* 
ed.  He  was  taken  by  the  eagle  on  my  hat,  and  while 
I  told  him  my  story,  said  "  Si,  seior,"  to  everything ; 
but  when  I  talked  of  embarking,  said,  ^^  Senor,  yoa 
have  no  pasaport."  I  will  not  inflict  i^n  the  reader 
the  details  of  all  my  vexations  and  anxiety  that  after- 
noon. I  was  most  eager  to  hurry  on.  To  send  a  coo* 
rier  to  Leon  would  keep  me  in  suq[>ense  insufferable. 
Some  difficulty  might  happen,  and  the  only  way  for 
peace  of  mind  was  to  return  myself,  I  had  already 
made  a  longer  journey  than  is  ever  made  in  the  coun- 
try without  an  interval  of  rest*  The  road  before  ma 
fed  through  the  seat  of  war,  and  four  days'  detention 
might  throw  me  into  the  midst  of  it.  (In  fact,  the 
result  proved  that  one  day  would  have  done  so.)  I 
walked  with  the  guarda  to  the  hut,  and  in  greater 
anxiety  than  I  had  felt  since  my  departure  from  homei 
showed  him  my  papers— -a  larger  bundle,  perhaps,  thau 
ha  had  ever  seen  before,  and  with  bigger  seals,  partic- 
ularly  my  original  passport  from  my  own  government-— 
jmnbling  together  his  government  and  my  government, 
the  amicable  relations  existing  between  them,  and  try* 


iNo  HULJiai  AS 


ing  to  grre  bini  an  oTerwhelming  idea  of  my  impotw 
tuice ;  bat  he  knew  no  more  what  it  meaDt  than  if  T 
had  rq>eated  to  him  in  English  the  fifth  problem  in  Eu- 
elid.  The  poor  man  was  almost  in  as  great  perplexity 
mB  I  was.  Several  times  he  assented  and  retracted ;  an^ 
at  length,  npon  my  giving  him  a  letter  promising  him 
the  protection  of  Mr.  Foster  and  the  commandant  at 
ViejO|  he  agreed  to  let  the  bungo  go. 

It  was  about  an  hoiur  before  dark  when  we  went  down 
k>  embark  the  mules.     My  bungo  was  at  the  extreme 
end  of  the  canal,  and  the  tide  had  risen  so  that  she  was 
afldat«     We  began  with  the  gray,  by  casting  a  noose 
arouod  her  legs,  drawing  them  together,  and  throwing 
bor  down.     The  men  then  attempted  to  lift  her  up  bod* 
liy  over  the  side  of  the  bungo ;  but  failing  in  this,  took 
off  the  rudder,  and  leaning  it  against  the  side,  hauled  the 
mule  ap  it,  then  tilted  the  rudder,  and  dropped  her  into 
the  boat.     In  the  mean  time  the  macho  stood  under  a 
tiee,  looking  on  very  suspiciously,  and  with  fearful  fore> 
bodings.     The  noose  was  put  round  his  legs,  with  a  rope 
before  and  behind  to  pull  on,  and  struggling  desper- 
ately, he  was  thrown  down,  but  hardly  touched  the 
ground  before,  with  a  desperate  effort,  he  broke  the 
npes  and  rose  upon  his  feet.     A  second  attempt  was 
more  successful ;  but  the  two  abreast  made  a  dose  Bt^ 
and  I  was  obliged  to  leave  behind  the  luggage  mule« 
I  paid  the  guarda  to  take  her  to  Mr.  Foster,  but  whether 
she  reached  him  or  not  I  have  never  heard. 

We  were  assisted  by  the  boatmen  of  another  bungOp 
aod  I  ordered  sapper  and  agua  ardieate  for  the  whole. 
This  was  lumisbiid  at  the  hut  by  the  guarda,  and  whea 
it  was  over^  the  inen,  all  in  good  spirits,  oonmienoed 
taking  the  luggage  on  board.  At  this  time  some  who 
ware  detained  were  gmmbliagp^uid  a  new  maa  entered 
Vol.  n.— B 


S4  INOIDBUTt    OP    TJIA-TBL. 


the  hut,  as  he  said  dkect  from  the  Pueblo,  who  cioakMl 
in  mj  ears  the  odioua  order,  and  the  guard  again  mada 
objections.  I  was  excessively  vexed  by  this  last  inter* 
ruptioD ;  and  &irly  bullying  the  new  comer  out  of  tha 
hut,  told  the  guard  that  the  thing  was  settled  and  I  would 
not  be  trifled  with,  took  up  my  gun,  and  told  the  man 
to  follow  me.  I  saw  beforehand  that  they  were  eto» 
vated  by  their  gpod  cheer,  and  that  I  could  rely  upoa 
them.  The  guard,  and  all  tho^  compelled  to  wait, 
followed ;  but  we  got  on  board,  and  my  crew  were  so 
tipsy  that  they  defied  all  opposition.  One  push  cleaiw 
ed  the  bungo  from  the  canal,  and  as  she  was  passing 
out  a  stranger  unexpectedly  stepped  on  board,  and  in 
the  dark  slipped  down  under  the  awning  with  the  mulea^ 
I  was  surprised  and  a  little  indignant  that  he  had  not 
asked  leave,  and  it  occtirred  to  me  that  he  was  a  partisan 
who  might  compromise  me ;  but  to  return  might  lead  to 
new  difficulty,  and,  besides,  he  was  probably  some  poor 
fellow  escaping  for  his  life,  and  it  was  better  that  I  should 
know  nothing  about  it.  In  the  midst  of  my  doubts  a 
man  on  the  bank  cried  out  that  fifty  soldiers  had  ar- 
rived from  Leon.  It  was  pitchy  dark  ;  we  could  see  no* 
thing,  and  my  men  answered  with  a  shout  of  defiance. 
In  the  mean  time  we  were  descendiug  rapidly,  whirl* 
ing  around  and  hitting  against  the  branches  of  trees; 
Jthe  mules  were  thrown  down,  the  awning  carried  away^ 
and  in  the  midst  of  darkness  and  confusion  we  stmek 
with  a  violent  crash  against  another  bungo,  which  knode* 
ad  us  all  into  a  heap,  and  I  thought  would  send  us  to 
the  bottom.  The  men  rose  with  roars  of  laughter.  Il 
waa  a  bad  beginning.  Still  I  was  overjoyed  at  being 
clear  of  the  port,  and  there  was  a  wild  excitement  in  the 
aeene  itself.  At  length  the  men  sat  down  to  the  oars,  and 
poUad  far  a  few  minntea  as  if  tfiay  would  tear  the  oU 


A    BVHOO. 


bongo  oat  of  the  wttter,  shooting  all  the  time  like  spiritt 
qf  darkneHT  let  looee«    The  pilot  eat  qnietly  at  the  helm, 
withoat  speaking,  and  dark  as  it  was,  at  limes  I  saw  a 
smile  steal  over  his  £BLce  at  wild  sallies  of  the  boatmen. 
Again  Ihey  began  rowing  furiously  as  before,  and  sud- 
denly one  of  the  sweeps  l^oke  and  the  oarsman  feD 
baokward.    The  bungo  was  run  up  among  the  trees,  and 
dM  men  climbed  ashore  by  the  branches.     The  blows 
of  maehetes,  minted  with  shouts  and  laughter,  rang 
IhrODgh  the  woods ;  they  were  the  noisiest  party  I  met 
in  Central  America.     In  the  dark  they  cut  down  a 
donen  safdings  before  they  found  what  they  wanted,  and 
in  about  an  hour  returned,  and  the  shattered  awning 
was  refitted.     By  this  time  they  were  more  sobered ; 
•ad  taking  their  sweeps,  we  mored  silently  down  the 
imk  river  until  one  o'clock,  when  we  came  to  anchor. 
The  bungo  was  about  forty  feet  long,  dug  out  of  the 
tank  of  a  Ouanacaste  tree,  about  five  feet  wide  and 
Marly  as  deep,  with  the  bottom  round,  and  a  toldo  or 
swning,  round  like  the  top  of  a  market-wagon,  made  of 
matting  and  bulls'  hides,  covered  ten  feet  of  the  stem. 
Bejrond  were  six  seats  across  the  sides  of  the  bungo  for 
tile  oarsmen.     The  whole  front  was  necessary  for  the 
nen,  and  in  reality  I  had  only  the  part  occupied  by  the 
awning,  where,  with  the  mules  as  tenants  in  common, 
there  were  too  many  of  us.     They  stood  abreast,  wiUi 
their  halters  tied  to  the  first  bench.     The  bottom  was 
itnmding,  and  gave  them  an  unsteady  foothold ;  and 
when  the  boat  heaved  they  had  a  scramble  to  preserve 
their  centre  of  gravity.     The  space  between  thehr  heels 
and  the  end  of  the  log  or  stem  of  the  bungo  was  my 
aleeping«room.     Nicolas  was  afraid  to  pass  between  the 
moles  to  get  a  place  among  the  men,  and  he  could  not 
climb  over  the  awning.    I  had  their  heads  tethered 


I 


INCIDXITT*    OF    TI^ATBL. 

* 

dose  up  to  the  bench,  and  putting  him  ontside  to  ectah 
the  first  kick,  drew  up  against  the  stem  of  the  bongo 
and  went  Xo  sleep* 

At  half  past  seven  we  weighed  anchor,  or  hauled  ^np 
a  large  stone,  and  started  with  oars.  My  boatmem 
were  peculiar  in  their  way  of  wearing  pantaloooSk 
First  they  puUed  them  off,  fcrided  them  about  a  foot 
wide  and  two  feet  long,  and  then  suspended  them 
over  the  belts  of  their  machetes  like  little  aprons.  At 
nine  o'clock  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  river.  HeUs 
we  hoisted  sail^  and  while  the  wind  was  fair  did  very 
well.  The  sun  was  scorching,  and  under  the  awning 
the  heat  was  insufferable.  Following  the  coast,  at  eleven 
o'clock  we  were  opposite  the  Volcano  of  Coseguinfti  a 
long,  dark  riiountain  range,  with  another  ridge  running 
below  it,  and  then  an  extensive  plain  covered  with  brvk 
to  the  sea.  The  wind  headed  us,  and  in  order  to  weath« 
er  the  point  of  headland  from  which  we  could  lay  oilt 
course,  the  boatmen  got  into  the  water  to  tow  the  bungo* 
I  followed  them,  and  with  a  broad-brimmed  straw  hit 
to  protect  me  from  the  sun,  I  found  the  water  was  do^ 
lightful.  During  this  time  one  of  the  men  brought  sand 
from  the  shore  to  Inreak  the  roundness  of  the  bottom  of 
the  boat,  and  give  the  mules  a  foothold.  Unable  to 
weather  the  point,  at  half  past  one  we  came  to  anchor, 
and  very  soon  every  man  on  board  was  asleep. 

I  woke  with  the  pilot's  legs  resting  on  my  shoulder. 
It  was  rather  an  undignified  position,  but  no  one  saw  ir. 
Before  me  was  the  Volcano  of  Coseguina,  with  its  field 
of  lava  and  its  desolate  shore,  and  not  a  living  being 
was  in  sight  except  my  sleeping  boatmen.  Five  years 
before,  on  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  at  the 
foot  of  Mount  Etna,  I  read  in  a  newspaper  an  account 
of  the  eruption  of  this  volcano.     Little  did  I  then  evor 


XIEFXCTI     Of     AK    BtVPTlON.  91 

expect  to  see  it ;  the  most  awfnl  in  the  history  of  -nA* 
canic  eruptions,  the  noise  of  which  startled  the  people 
of  Guatimala  four  hundred  miles  off;  and  at  Kingston^ 
Jamaica,  eif^ht  hundred  miles  distant,  was  supposed  to 
be  signal  guns  of  distress  from  some  vessel  at  sea.  The 
fiioe  of  nature  was  changed ;  the  cone  of  the  volcano 
was  gone ;  a  mountain  and  field  of  lava  ran  down  to 
the  sea ;  a  forest  old  as  creation  had  entirely  disappear- 
ed, and  two  islands  were  formed  in  the  sea;  shoals 
were  discovered,  in  one  of  which  a  large  tree  was  fixed 
upside  down ;  one  river  was  completely  choked  up,  and 
snother  formed,  running  in  an  opposite  direction ;  seven 
men  in  the  employ  of  my  bungo-proprietor  ran  down  tb 
the  water,  pushed  off  in  a  bungo,  and  were  never  heard 
of  more ;  wild  beasts,  howling,  left  their  caves  in  the 
moontains,  and  ounces,  lec^pards^  and  snakes  fled  finr 
shelter  to  the  abodes  of  men. 

This  eruption  took  place  tm  the  SOth  of  Jannarji 
1635.  Mr.  Savage  was  on  that  day  on  the  side  of  tbe 
Volcano  of  San  Miguel,  distant  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles,  looking  for  cattle.  At  eight  o'clock  he  saw  a 
dense  cloud  rising  in  the  south  in  a  pyramidal  ftmn, 
and  heard  a  noise  which  sounded  like  the  roaring  of  the 
sea.  Very  soon  the  thick  clouds  were  lighted  up  by 
vivid  flashes,  rose-coloured  and  forked,  shooting  and 
disappearing,  which  he  supposed  to  be  some  electrical 
phenomenon.  These  appearances  increased  so  fast  that 
his  men  became  frightened,  and  said  it  was  a  ruina, 
and  that  the  end  of  the  world  was  nigh.  Very  soon  he 
himself  was  satisfied  that  it  was  the  eruption  of  a  vol" 
cano;  and  as  Coseguina  was  at  that  time  a  quiet 
mountain,  not  suspected  to  contain  subterraneous  fires, 
he  supposed  it  to  proceed  from  the  Volcano  of  Tigris. 
He  returned  to  the  town  of  San  Miguel^  and  in  riding 

4 


88  INCIDSVTS    OF    TBATBL. 

three  blocks  felt  three  Bevere  shocks  of  earthquake. 
The  inhabitants  were  distracted  Tvith  terror.  Birds 
flew  wildly  through  the  streets,  and,  blinded  by  the 
dust|  fell  dead  on  the  ground.  At  four  o'clock  it  was 
so  dark  that,  as  Mr.  8.  says,  he  held  up  his  hand  before 
his  eyes,  and  could  not  see  it.  Nobody  moved  with- 
out  a  candle,  which  ga^  a  dim  and  misty  light,  ex* 
tending  only  a  few  feet.  \  At  this  time  the  church  was 
full,  and  could  not  contain  half  who  wished  to  enter 
The  figure  of  the  Virgin  was  brought  out  into  the  plaza 
and  borne  through  the  streets,  followed  by  the  inhabK 
tants,  with  candles  and  torches,  in  penitential  proces 
sion,  crying  upon  the  Lord  to  pardon  their  sins.  Bells 
tolled,  and  during  the  procession  there  was  anothei 
earthquake,  so  violent  and  long  that  it  threw  to  the 
ground  many  people  walking  in  the  procession.  The 
darkness  continued  till  eleven  o'clock  the  next  day 
when  the  sun  was  partiaUy  visible,  but  dim  and  hazy, 
and  without  any  brightness.  The  dust  on  the  ground 
was  four  inches  thick ;  the  btaaches  of  trees  broke  with 
its  weight,  and  people  were  so  disfigured  by  it  that  they 
could  not  be  recognised. 

At  this  time  Mr.  S.  set  out  for  his  hacienda  at  Zon- 
aonate.  He  slept  at  the  first  village,  and  at  two  or 
three  o'clock  in  the  morning  was  roused  by  a  report 
Uke  the  breaking  of  most  terrific  thunder  or  the  firing 
of  thousands  of  cannon.  This  was  the  report  which 
startled  the  people  of  Guatimala,  when  the  command- 
ant sallied  out,  supposing  that  the  quartel  was  attacked, 
and  which  was  heard  at  Kingston  in  Jamaica^  It  was 
accompanied  by  an  earthquake  so  violent  that  it  almost 
threw  Mr.  S.  out  of  his  hammock.* 

*  Thii  may  at  fint  appear  no  great  frat  for  an  eartKquakf ,  but  no  atrangv 
pioof  cmn  be  cited  of  the  violeoce  with  whkh  the  ahock  affects  the  regioo  hi 
which  It  occura 


LA    VHfOV.  89 

Toward  evening  my  men  all  woke;  the  wind  was 
fur,  but  they  took  things  quietly,  and  after  supper  hoist- 
ed saiL  About  tweWe  o'clock,  by  an  amicable  arrange- 
ment, I  stretched  myself  on  the  pilot's  bench  under  the 
tiller,  and  when  I  woke  we  had  passed  the  Volcano  of 
Tigris,  and  were  in  an  archipelago  of  islands  more  beau- 
tiful than  the  islands  of  Greece.  The  wind  died  away, 
and  the  boatmen,  after  playing  for  a  little  while  with 
the  oars,  again  let  fall  the  big  stone  and  went  to  sleep. 
Outside  the  awning  the  heat  of  the  sun  was  withering, 
under  it  the  closeness'  was  suffocating,  and  my  poor 
mules  had  had  no  water  since  their  embarcation.  In 
the  confusion  of  getting  away  I  had  forgotten  it  till  the 
moment  of  departure,  and  then  there  was  no  vessel  in 
which  to  carry  it.  After  giving  them  a  short  nap  I 
roused  the  men,  and  with  the  promise  of  a  reward  in- 
duced them  to  take  to  their  oars.  Fortunately,  before 
they  got  tired  we  had  a  breeze,  and  at  about  four  o'clock 
in  the  afternoon  the  big  stone  was  dropped  in  the  har- 
bour of  La  Union,  in  front  of  the  town.  One  ship  was 
lying  at  anchor,  a  whaler  from  Chili,  which  had  put  in 
in  distress  and  been  condemned. 

The  commandant  was  Don  Manuel  Romero,  one  of 
Morazan's  veterans,  who  was  anxious  to  retire  altogeth* 
er  from  public  life,  but  remained  in  office  because,  in 
his  present  straits,  he  could  be  useful  to  his  benefactor 
and  friend.     He  had  heard  of  me,  and  his  attentions 

■ 

reminded  me  of,  what  I  sometimes  forgot,  but  which 
others  very  rarely  did,  my  official  character ;  he  invited 
me  to  his  house  while  I  remained  in  La  Union,  but  gave 
me  intelligence  which  made  me  more  anxious  than  ever 
to  hurry  on.  General  Morazan  had  left  the  port  but  a 
few  days  before,  having  acocmipanied  his  family  thither 
aa  their  way  to  Chili.    On  his  return  to  San  Salvador 


..  ( 


40  IHCIDBHTt    or    TmATBI.. 

Jie  intended  to  marob  directly  against  Guatimala.  Bj 
fnrced  marches  I  might  overtake  him,  and  go  itp  under 
the  escort  of  his  army,  trusting  to  chance  to  avoid  being 
on  the  spot  in  case  of  a  battle,  or  from  my  aoquaintanee 
with  Carrera  get  passed  across  the  lines.  Fortunately, 
the  captain  of  the  condemned  ship  wished  to  go  to  San 
Salvador,  and  agreed  to  accompany  me  the  next  day. 

There  were  two  strangers  in  the.  place,  Captain 
R.  of  Honduras,  and  Don  Pedro,  a  mulatto,  both  of 
whom  were  particularly  civil  to  me.  In  the  evening 
my  proposed  travelling  companion  and  I  called  upon 
them,  and  very  soon  a  game  of  cards  was  proposed. 
The  doors  were  closed,  wine  placed  on  the  table,  and 
monte  begun  with  doubloons.  Captain  R.  and  Don 
Pedro  tried  hard  to  make  me  join  them;  and  when  I 
rose  to  leave.  Captain  R.,  as  if  he  thought  there  could 
be  but  one  reason  for  my  resisting,  took  me  aside,  and 
said  that  if  I  wanted  money  he  was  my  friend,  while 
Don  Pedro  declared  that  he  was  not  rich,  but  that  he 
had  a  big  heart ;  that  he  was  happy  of  my  acquaint* 
ance ;  he  had  had  the  honour  to  know  a  consul  once 
before  at  Panama,  and  I  might  count  upon  him  for  any* 
thing  I  wanted.  Gambling  is  one  of  the  great  vices  of 
the  country,  and  that  into  which  strangers  are  most  apt 
to  fall.  The  captain  had  fallen  in  with  a  set  at  San 
Miguel,  and  these  two  had  come  down  to  the  port  ex- 
pressly to  fleece  him.  During  the  night  he  detected 
them  cheating ;  and  telling  them  that  he  had  learned  in 
Chili  to  use  a  knife  as  well  as  they  could,  laid  his  cane 
over  the  shoulders  of  him  who  had  had  the  honour  to 
know  a  consul  once  before,  and  broke  up  the  party. 
There  is  an  oldfashioned  feeling  of  respect  for  a  man 
who  wears  a  sword,  but  that  feeling  wears  off  in  Central 
Ainericna 


JOVBHBT     TO    lAir    SALTAOOK.  41 


CHAPTER  m. 

Jmaeikto  S«n  Salvador.— -A  new  Companion.— Sao  Alaio.— San  Mig«#I.— Wat 
Alanns.  —  Another  Counirymaa.  —  Stale  of  San  Salvador.  —  River  Lempa.  — 
Ban  Vicente. — Volcano  of  San  Vicente. — Thermal  Springe. — Cojutepeqne.— 
Armal  at  San  Salvador.  —  Prejudiee  against  Poreignerai  —  Contributiont.—- 
Piesegaogs.— Vice-president  Vigil.— Taking  of  San  Miguel  and  Sao  Vicente. 
— >Sumoor8  of  a  March  upon  San  Salvador. — Departure  from  San  Salvador. 

At  five  o'clock  the  next  afternoon  we  set  out  for  San 
Salvador.  Don  Manuel  Romero  furnished  me  with  let* 
ters  of  introduction  to  all  the  Gefes  Politicos,  and  the 
captain's  name  was  inserted  in  my  passport. 

I  must  introduce  the  reader  to  my  new  firiend.  Cap- 
tain Antonio  V.  F.,  a  little  over  thirty,  when  six 
months  out  on  a  whaling  voyage,  with  a  leaky  ship 
and  a  mutinous  crew,  steered  across  the  Pacific  for  the 
Ciontinent  of  America,  and  reached  the  port  of  La 
Union  with  seven  or  eight  feet  water  in  the  hold  and 
half  his  crew  in  irons.  He  knew  nothing  of  Central 
America  until  necessity  threw  him  upon  its  shore. 
While  waiting  the  slow  process  of  a  regular  condem- 
nation and  order  for  the  sale  of  his  ship.  General  Mo- 
razan,  with  an  escort  of  officers,  came  to  the  port  to 
embark  his  wife  and  family  for  Chili.  Captain  F.  had 
become  acquainted  with  them,  and  through  them  with 
their  side  of  the  politics  of  the  country;  and  in  the 
evening,  while  we  were  riding  along  the  ridge  of  a  high 
mountain,  he  told  me  that  he  had  been  offered  a  lieli- 
tenant<;olonel's  commission,  and  was  then  on  his  way 
to  join  Morazan  in  his  march  against  Guatimala.  His 
ship  was  advertised  for  sale,  he  had  written  an  account 
of  his  misadventures  to  his  owners  and  his  wife,  was 

Vol.  II.— P 


f » 


49  XNClDSITTt    OF    TRATBA. 

tired  of  remaining  at  the  port,  and  a  campaign  with 
Morazan  was  the  only  thing  that  offered.  He  liked 
General  Morazan,  and  he  liked  the  country,  and  thoughl 
his  wife  would  ;  if  Morazan  succeeded  there  would  be 
vacant  offices  and  estates  without  owners,  and  some  of 
them  worth  having.  He  went  from  whaling  to  cam-' 
paigning  as  coolly  as  a  Yankee  would  from  cutting 
down  trees  to  editing  a  newspaper.  It  was  no  affair  of 
mine,  but  I  suggested  that  there  was  no  honour  to  be 
gained ;  that  he  would  get  his  full  share  of  hard  knocks, 
bullets,  and  sword-cuts ;  that  if  Morazan  succeeded  he 
would  have  a  desperate  struggle  for  his  share  of  the 
spoils,  and  if  Morazan  failed  he  would  certainly  be  shoL 
All  this  waa  matter  he  had  thought  on,  and  before  com< 
mitting  himself  he  intended  to  make  his  observations  at 
San  Salvador.  ' 

At  ten  o'clock  we  reached  the  village  of  San  Alejoy 
and  stopped  at  a  very  comfortable  house,  where  sU 
Yfcte  in  a  state  of  excitement  from  the  report  of  an  in* 
viision  from  Honduras. 

Early  the  next  morning  we  started  with  a  new  guide^ 
wd  a  little  beyond  the  village  he  pointed  out  a  place 
where  his  uncle  was  murdered  and  robbed  about  a  year 
before.  Four  of  the  robbers  were  caught,  and  sent  by 
t)ie  alcalde,  under  a  guard  of  the  relations  of  the  mar- 
d^red  man,  to  San  Miguel,  with  directions  to  the  guard 
to-  shoot  them  if  refractory.  The  g^ard  found  them  re* 
(factory  at  the  very  place  where  the  murder  had  been* 
committed,  and  shot  them  on  the  spot.  At  eight  o'clock 
we  came  in  sight  of  the  Volcano  of  San  Miguel,  and  at 
trwo  entered  the  city.  Biding  up  the  street,  we  passed 
a  hrge  church  with  its  front  fallen,  and  saw  paintings 
on  tlk&  walk,  and  an  altar  forty  feet  high,  with  columns, 
and  images  sculptured  and  gilded,  exposed  to  the  opea 


■  AN     MIOaXlN  4t 

air.  AL.  ddkmg  thm  road  we  bad  heard  of  war,  and  we 
ibimd  the  eity  in  a  state  of  great  excitement.  The 
troope  of  Hoadurae  were  marching  upon  it,  and  then 
only  twelve  leagues  distant.  There  \Tere  no  soldiers  to 
defend  it ;  all  had  been  drawn  off  for  Morasan's  expe* 
didon*  Blany  of  the  citizens  had  already  fled ;  in  fiaot, 
the  town  was  half  depopulated,  and  the  rest  were  pre- 
paring to  save  themselves  by  concealment  or  flight. 
We  sloi^d  at  the  house  of  John,  or  Don  Juan,  Den* 
ningt  an  American  from  Connecticnt,  who  had  sold  an 
armed  brig  to  the  Federal  Government,  and  command- 
ed her  himself  during  the  blockade  of  Omoa,  but  had 
nmried  in  the  country,  and  for  several  years  lived  re- 
tired on  his  hacienda.  His  house  was  deserted  and 
stripped,  the  furniture  and  valuables  were  hidden,  and 
Hb  mother-in-law,  an  old  lady,  remained  in  the  empty 
tenement.  Nobody  thought  of  resistance ;  and  the  cap* 
lain  bought  a  silver-mounted  sword  from  one  of  the 
most  respectable  citizens,  who  was  converting  his  use* 
kse  trappings  into  money,  and  who,  with  a  little  trunk 
in  bis  hand  containing  la  plata,  pointed  to  a  fine  horse 
in  the  eourtyard,  and  without  a  blush  on  his  face  said 
that  was  his  seeority.  > 

The  captain  had  great  difficulty  in  procuring  mules ; 
he  had  two  enormous  trunks,  containing,  among  other 
things,  Peruvian  chains  and  other  gold  trinkets  to  a  large 
amount ;  in  fact,  aU  he  was  worth.  In  the  evening  we 
walked  to  the  plaza ;  groups  of  men,  wrapped  in  their 
ponehas,  were  discussing  in  low  tones  the  movements  of 
the  enemy,  how  far  they  had  marched  that  day,  how 
loi^  they  would  require  for  rest,  and  the  moment  when 
it  would  be  necessary  to  fly»  We  returned  to  the  house, 
|rfaced  two  naked  wooden-bottomed  bedsteads  in  one, 
and  hftvmg  ascertained  by  ealculation  that  we  were  not 


^ 


,-*. 


44  INCIDBBTS    or    T&ATXL. 

likely  to  be  disturbed  during  the  night,  forgot  the  troub* 
les  of  the  flying  inhabitants,  and  slept  soundly. 

On  account  of  the  difficulty  of  procuring  mulesi  W0 
did  not  set  out  till  ten  o'clock.  The  climate  is  the  hoW 
test  in  Central  America,  and  insalubrious  under  expo* 
sure  to  the  sun ;  but  we  would  not  wait.  Every  mo* 
ment  there  were  new  rumours  of  the  approach  of  the 
Honduras  army,  and  it  was  all  important  for  us  to  keep 
in  advance  of  them.  I  shall  hasten  over  our  hurried 
journey  through  the  State  of  San  Salvador,  the  richest 
in  Central  America,  extending  a  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  along  the  shores  of  the  Pacific,  producing  tobac- 
co, the  best  indigo  and  richest  balsam  in  the  world.- 
We  had  mountains  and  rivers,  vallejrs  and  immense  ra» 
vines,  and  the  three  great  volcanoes  of  San  Miguel,  Saa 
Vicente,  and  San  Salvador,  one  or  the  other  of  which 
was  almost  constantly  in  sight.  The  whole  surface  is 
volcanic ;  for  miles  the  road  lay  over  beds  of  decoa^ 
posed  lava,  inducing  the  belief  that  here  the  whole  shore 
of  the  Pacific  is  an  immense  arch  over  subterraneous 
fires.  From  the  time  of  the  independence  this  state 
stood  foremost  in  the  maintenance  of  liberal  principles, 
and  throughout  it  exhibits  an  appearance  of  improve* 
ment,  a  freedom  from  bigotry  and  fanaticism,  and  a  de- 
velopment of  physical  and  moral  energy  not  found  in 
any  other.  The  San  Salvadoreans  are  the  only  men 
who  speak  of  sustaining  the  integrity  of  the  Republic  ae 
a  point  of  national  honour. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  second  day  we  came  in  sight 
of  the  Lempa,  now  a  gigantic  river  rolling  on  to  the 
Pacific.  Three  months  before  I  had  seen  it  a  little 
stream  among  the  moimtains  of  Esquipulas.  Here  we 
were  overtaken  by  Don  Carlos  Rivas,  a  leading  Liber- 
al from  Honduras,  flying  for  life  before  partisan  sol- 


THBBMAL    tPBIlTOt. 


45 


diem  of  his  own  state.  We  descended  to  the  b&nk  of 
die  river,  and  followed  it  through  a  wild  forest,  which 
IimI  been  swept  by  a  tornado,  the  trees  still  lying  as 
they  felL  At  the  crossing-place  the  valley  of  the  river 
was  half  a  mile  wide  ;  but  being  the  dry  season,  on  this 
side  there  was  a  broad  beach  of  sand  and  stones.  We 
rode  to  the  water's  edge,  and  shouted  for  the  boatman 
on  the  opposite  side.  Other  parties  arrived,  all  fugi- 
tives, among  them  the  wife  and  family  of  Don  Carlos, 
and  we  formed  a  crowd  upon  the  shore.  At  length  the 
boat  came,  took  on  board  sixteen  mules,  saddles,  and 
luggage,  and  as  many  men,  women,  and  children  as 
could  stow  themselves  away,  leaving  a  multitude  behind. 
We  crossed  in  the  dark,  and  on  the  opposite  side  found 
every  hut  and  shed  filled  with  fugitives;  families  in 
dark  masses  were  under  the  trees,  and  men  and  wom- 
en crawled  out  to  congratulate  friends  who  had  put 
the  Lempa  between  them  and  the  enemy.  We  slept 
upon  our  luggage  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  and  before 
daylight  were  again  in  the  saddle. 

That  night  we  slept  at  San  Vicente,  and  the  next 
morning  the  captain,  in  company  with  an  invalid  offi- 
cer of  Morazan's,  who  had  been  prevented  by  sick- 
ness from  accompanying  the  general  in  his  march 
against  Guatimala,  rode  on  with  the  luggage,  while  I, 
with  Colonel  Hoyas,  made  a  circuit  to  visit  El  Infierno  of 
the  Volcano  of  San  Vicente.  Crossing  a  beautiful  plain 
running  to  the  base  of  the  volcano,  we  left  our  animals 
at  a  hut,  and  walked  some  distance  to  a  stream  in  a  deep 
ravine,  which  we  followed  upward  to  its  source,  com- 
ing from  the  very  base  of  the  volcano.  The  water  was 
warm,  and  had  a  taste  pf  vitriol,  and  tlie  banks  were 
incrusted  with  white  vitriol  and  flour  of  sulphur.  At 
a  distance  of  one  or  two  hundred  yards  it  formed  a  ba- 


..    H 


46  INClblVTB    OF    TRATSL. 

sin,  where  the  water  was  hotter  than  the  highest  grade 
of  iTiy  Reaumur's  thermometer.  In  several  places  we 
heard  subterranean  noises,  and  toward  the  end  of  Hat 
ravine,  on  the  slope  of  one  side,  was  an  orifice  aboltf. 
thirty  feet  in  diameter,  from  which,  with  a  terrific  noisei 
boiling  water  was  spouted  into  the  air.  This  is  called 
El  Infiernillo,  or  the  "  little  infernal  regions."  The  in- 
habitants say  that  the  noise  is  increased  by  the  slight- 
est agitation  of  the  air,  even  by  the  human  voice.  Ap- 
proaching to  within  range  of  the  falling  water,  we  shout- 
ed several  times,  and  as  wc  listened  and  gazed  into 
the  fearful  cavity,  I  imagined  that  the  noise  was  louder 
and  more  angry,  and  that  the  boiling  water  spouted 
higher  at  our  call.  Colonel  Hoyos  conducted  me  to  a 
path,  from  which  I  saw  my  road,  like  a  white  line,  over 
a  high  verdant  mountain.  He  told  me  that  many  of 
the  inhabitants  of  San  Miguel  had  fled  to  San  Vicente, 
and  at  that  place  the  Honduras  arms  would  be  repel- 
led; we  parted,  little  expecting  to  sec  each  other  again 
so  soon,  and  under  such  unpleasant  circumstances  for 
him. 

I  overtook  the  captain  at  a  village  where  he  had 
breakfast  prepared,  and  in  the  afternoon  we  arrived  at 
Cojutepeque,  until  within  two  days  the  temporary  cap- 
ital, beautifully  situated  at  the  foot  of  a  small  extinct 
volcano,  its  green  and  verdant  sides  broken  only  by  a 
winding  path,  and  on  the  top  a  fortress,  which  Morazan 
had  built  as  his  last  rallying-place,  to  die  under  the  flag 
of  the  Republic. 

The  next  day  at  one  o*clock  we  reached  San  Salva- 
dor. Entering  by  a  fine  gate,  and  through  suburbs 
teemmg  with  fruit  and  flower  trees,  the  meanness  of  the 
houses  was  hardly  noticed.  Advancing,  we  saw  heaps 
of  rabbishi  end  large  housee  with  their  fronts  cracked 


•  AH    SALTAOOS.  47 

ttd  fallingi  marks  of  the  earthquakes  which  had  broken 
It  up  as  the  seat  of  government,  and  aknost  depopula- 
ted the  city.     This  series  of  earthquakes  commenced 
on  the  third  of  the  preceding  October  (the  same  day  on 
which  I  sailed  for  that  country) ,  and  for  twenty  days  tha 
earth  was  tremulous,  sometimes   suffering  fifteen  or 
twenty  shocks  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  one  so  severe 
that,  as  Mr.  Chatfield  told  me,  a  bottle  standing  in  his 
deeping«room  was  thrown  down.     Most  of  the  inhabi- 
tants abandoned  the  city,  and  those  who  remained  slept 
Aider  matting  in  the  courtyards  of  their  houses.    Every 
house  was  more  or  less  injured ;  some  were  rendered 
Oitenantable,  and  ma](>y  were  thrown  down.     Two  days 
bsfore,  the  vice-president  and  officers  of  the  Federal 
ind  State  Governments,  impelled  by  the  crisis  of  the 
tmesy  had  returned  to  their  shattered  capital.  •  It  was 
tbout  one  o'clock,  intensely  hot,  and  there  was  no 
ahade  ;  the  streets  were  solitary,  the  doors  and  windows 
of  the  houses  closed,  the  shops  around  the  plaza  shut, 
the  little  matted  tents  of  the  market-women  deserted,  and 
the  inhabitants,  forgetting  earthquakes,  and  that  a  hos- 
tile army  was  marching  upon  them,  were  taking  their 
noonday  siesta.     In  a  corner  of  the  plaza  was  a  barri- 
eado,  constructed  with  trunks  of  trees,  rude  as  an  In- 
dian fortress,  and  fortified  with  cannon,  intended  as  the 
wene  of  the  last  effort  for  the  preservation  of  the  city. 
A  few  soldiers  were  asleep  under  the  corridor  of  the 
qnartel,  and  a  sentinel  was  pacing  before  the  door. 
Inquiring  our  way  of  him,  we  turnM  the  corner  of  the 
plaza,  and  stopped  at  the  house  of  Don  Pedro  Negrete, 
It  that  time  acting  as  vice-consul  both  of  England  and 
JE^rance,  and  the  only  representative  at  the  capital  of 
any  foreign  power. 
It  was  one  of  the  features  of  this  unhappy  revolutiohi 


4S  INClSBlTTt-   eW    T&AVBL. 


that  the  Liberal  parly,  before  the  friends  and  aup|KirU 
era  of  foreignera,  manifested  a  violent  feeling  against 
them,  particularly  the  EngUsh,  ostensibly  on  acoounl 
of  their  occupation  of  the  miserable  little  Island  of  Bc^ 
i^an,  in  the  Bay  of  Honduras.  The  press,  i.  e.,  a  little 
weekly  published  at  San  Salvador,  teemed  with  inflan^ 
matory  articles  against  los  Ingleses,  their  usurpatiott 
and  ambition,  and  their  unjust  desijgn  <^  aH/iing  t0 
their  extended  dominions  the  republic  of  Central 
America.  It  was  a  deq>erate  effort  to  sustain  a  pas- 
ty menaced  with  destruction  by  rousing  the  n^tjnimJ 
prejudice  against  strangers.  A  development  of  this 
spirit  was  seen  in  the  treaty  of  alliance  between  Saa 
Salvador  and  Quessaltenango,  the  only  twx>  states  that 
sustained  the  Federal  Government,  by  which,  in  Au-^ 
gust  preceding,  it  was  agreed  that  their  delegates  to  the. 
national  convention  should  be  instructed  to  treat,  in 
preference  to  all  other  things,  upon  measuses  to  be  tik 
ken  for  the  recovery  of  the  Island  of  Roatan ;  and  that 
no  production  of  English  soil  or  industry,  even  though 
it  came  under  the  flag  of  another  nation,  cund  no  ^ect 
of  any  other  nation,  though  a  friendly  one,  if  it  camia, 
in  an  English  vessel,  should  be  admitted  into  the 
territory  until  England  restored  to  Central  America, 
the  possession  of  that  island.  I  do  not  mean  to  say 
that  they  were  wrong  in  putting  forth  their  claims  to 
Ais  island— the  English  flag  was  planted  upon  it  in  a 
very  summary  way— nor  that  they  were  wrong  in  reo- 
ommending  the  only  means  in  their  power  to  redress 
what  they  considered  an  injury ;  for,  as  England  had 
not  declared  war  with  China,  it  would  have  been  rash 
for  the  states  of  San  Salvador  and  Los  Altos  to  involve 
themselves  in  hostilities  with  that  overgrown  power ; 
but  no  formal  complaint  was  ever  made,  and  no  nego- 


XXCITBH-^NT    AGAINST     FO&BIOMB&S.         49 

tMrtioti  proposed ;  and  on  the  publication  of  this  trea^ 
tf ,  which  Mr.  Chatfield,  the  British  consul  general,  con- 
ad^ed  dinreqpectful  and  iiqurions  to  his  goTernment) 
he  addressed  a  note  to  the  vice-president,  requesting  a 
eitegcHrieal  answer  to  the  question  '<  if  the  Federal 
Government  did  exist  or  not"  (precisely  what  I  was 
amCioaB  to  know) ;  to  which  he  received  no  answer. 
Afterward  Mr.  Chatfield  visited  Nicaragua,  and  the 
government  of  that  state  sent  him  a  communication,  re* 
questing  his  mediation  in  settling  the  difficulties  be- 
tween the  states  of  San  Salvador  and  Honduras,  then 
al  virar,  aiid  through  him  the  guarantee  of  the  Queen  of - 
Sngland  to  compel  the  fulfilment  of  any  treaty  made 
between  them.     Mr.  Chatfield,  in  his  answer,  referred 
to  his  letter  to  the  vice-president,  and  spoke  of  the  gov- 
eniment   as   the    ^^  so-called    Federal   Government.'' 
The  correspondence  was  published,  and  increased  the 
exasperation*  against  Mr.  Chatfield  and  foreigners  gen- 
efully;  they  were  denounced  as  instigators  and  sup- 
piorters  of  the  revolution ;  their  rights  and  privileges  as 
imdents  discussed,  and  finally  the  injustice  of  their  en- 
j^ing  the  protection  of  the  government !  without  con- 
tributing to  the  expenses  of  supporting  it.     The  result 
,  that  on  the  levying  of  a  new  forced  loan,  foreign- 
were  included  in  the  liability,  and  a  peremptory  or- 
der was  issued,  requiring  them,  in  case  of  refusal  to  pay, 
to  leave  the  country  in  eight  days.     Thai  foreigners 
were  violently  exasperated.      There  were   not   more 
dian  a  dossen  in  the  state,  and  most  of  them  being  en- 
gaged in  business  whidi  it  would  be  ruinous  to  leave, 
were  compelled  to  pay.     Two  or  three  who  wanted  to 
leave  before  walked  off,  and  called  themselves  mar- 
tyrs, threatened  the  vengeance  of  their  government, 
and  talked  of  the  arrival  of  a  British  ship-of-war.    Mr. 
Vol.  II. — G  6  ^ 


50  INCIDENTS    or    TRAYXU 

Kilgour,  a  British  subject,  refused  to  pay.  The  an* 
thorities  had  orders  to  give  him  his  passport  to  leave  the 
state.  Don  Pedro  Negrete,  as  vice-consul  of  France, 
Encargado  de  la  Inglaterra,  presented  a  remonstrance. 
The  vice-president's  answer  (in  part  but  too  true),  as  il 
contains  the  grounds  of  the  law,  and  shows  the  state 
of  feeling  existing  at  the  time,  I  give  in  his  own  words  s 

'^  Strangers  in  these  bcurbarous  countries,  as  they  caU 
them,  ought  npt  to  expect  \o  have  the  advantage  of  be» 
ing  protected  in  their  property  without  aiding  the  gov- 
ernment in  it.  We  are  poor,  and  if,  in  any  of  the  con- 
vulsions which  are  so  frequent  in  new  countries  thai 
have  hardly  begun  their  political  career,  strangers  suf^ 
er  losses,  they  at  once  have  recourse  to  their  govern* 
ments,  that  the  nations  in  which  they  come  to  speculate^ 
not  without  knowledge  of  the  risks,  pay  them  double  or 
treble  of  what  they  have  lost.  This  is  unjust  in  every 
point  of  view,  when  they  do  not  care  with  a  slight  loan 
to  aid  the  government  in  its  most  urgent  necessities* 
What  ought  the  government  to  do  ?  to  tell  them,  *  Away 
with  you,  I  caimot  secure  your  property  ;  or,  lend  me  a 
certain  sum  in  order  to  enable  mc  to  secure  it.'  On  the 
other  hand,  if  it  happens  that  a  strong  party  or  faction, 
as  it  is  called,  prevails,  and  falls  upon  your  property  the 
same  as  upon  the  property  of  the  sons  of  the  country  and 
the  public  rents,  and  you  complain  to  your  nation,  she 
comes  and  blockades  our  ports,  and  makes  the  poor  na* 
tion  pay  a  thousand  per  cent." 

Mr.  Mercher,  a  French  merchant,  was  absent  at  the 
time  of  enforcing  the  contributions.  Don  Pedro  was 
his  agent  under  a  power  of  attorney,  and  had  charge  of 
his  goods,  and  refused  to  pay.  The  government  insist* 
ed ;  Don  Pedro  was  determined.  The  government 
sent  soldiers  to  his  house.     Don  Pedro  baid  he  would 


TICK-PRESIDENT   VIGIL.  51 

boist  the  French  flag ;  the  chief  of  the  state  said  he 
would  tear  it  down.  Don  Pedro  was  imprisoned  in  his 
own  house,  his  family  excluded  from  him,  and  his  food 
banded  in  by  a  soldier,  until  a  friend  paid  the  money. 
Don  Pedro  contended  that  the  majesty  of  Franco  was 
riolated  in  his  person ;  the  government  said  that  the 
proceedings  were  against  him  as  the  agent  of  Mercher, 
and  not  as  French  consul;  but  any  way,  consul  or 
agent,  Don  Pedro's  body  bore  the  brunt,  and  as  this 
took  place  but  two  days  before  our  arrival,  Don  Pedro 
was  still  in  bed  from  the  indisposition  brought  upon  him 
by  vexation  and  anxiety.  We  received  the  above, 
with  many  details,  from  Don  Pedro's  son,  as  an  apolo- 
gy for  his  father's  absence,  and  an  explanation  of  the 
ravings  we  heard  in  the  adjoining  room. 

la  the    evening  I  called  upon  the   vice-president. 
Great  changes  had  taken  place  since  I  saw  him  at  Zon- 
zonate.     The  troops  of  the  Federal  Government  had 
been  routed  in  Honduras ;  Carrera  had  conquered  Quez- 
altenango,  garrisoned  it  with  his  own  soldiers,  destroy- 
ed its  existence  as  a  separate  state,  and  annexed  it  to 
Guatimala.     San  Salvador  stood  alone  in  support  of  the 
Federal  Government.     But  Senor  Vigil  had  risen  with 
the  emergency.     The  chief  of  the  state,  a  bold-looking 
mulatto,  and  other  officers  of  the  government,  were 
with  him.     They  knew  that  the  Honduras  troops  were 
marching  upon  the  city,  had  reason  to  fear  they  would 
be  joined  by  those  of  Nicaragua,  but  they  were  not  dis- 
mayed ;  on  the  contrary,  all  showed  a  resolution  and 
energy  I  had  not  seen  before.     General  Morazan,  they 
said,  was  on  his  march  against  Guatimala.     Tired  as 
they  were  of  war,  the  people  of  San  Salvador,  Seiior 
Vigil  said,  had  risen  with  new  enthusiasm.     Volun- 
teers were  flockhng  in  from  all  quarters ;  and  with  a  de- 


52  INCIDBKTflOFTRATSL. 

termination  that  was  imposing,  thou^  called  out  by 
civil  war,  he  added  that  they  were  resolved  to  sustaui 

he  Federation,  or  die  under  the  ruins  of  San  Salvap 
dor.  It  was  the  first  time  my  feelings  had  been  at  aH 
roused.  In  all  the  convulsions  of  the  time  I  had  seen 
no  flash  of  heroism,  no  high  love  of  country.  Self* 
preservation  and  self-aggrandizement  were  the  ruling 
passions.  It  was  a  bloody  scramble  for  power  and 
place ;  and  sometimes,  as  I  rode  through  the  beautiful 
country,  and  saw  what  Providence  had  done  for  them, 
and  how  unthankful  they  were,  I  thought  it  would  be  a 
good  riddance  if  they  would  play  out  the  game  of  the 
Kilkenny  cats.  It  was  a  higher  tone  than  I  was  accua* 
tomed  to,  when  the  chief  men  of  a  single  state,  with  an 
invading  army  at  their  door,  and  their  own  soldiers 
away,  expressed  the  stern  resolution  to  sustain  the  Fed- 
eration,  or  die  under  the  ruins  of  the  capital.  But  they 
did  not  despair  of  the  Republic ;  the  Honduras  troops 
would  be  repulsed  at  San  Vicente,  and  General  Mora- 
zan  would  take  Guatimala.  The  whole  subject  of  the 
revolution  was  discussed,  and  the  conversation  was 
deeply  interesting  to  me,  for  I  regarded  it  as  touching 
matters  of  life  and  death.  I  could  not  compromise  them 
by  anything  I  might  say,  for  they  are  all  in  exile,  under 
sentence  of  death  if  they  return.  They  did  not  speak 
in  the  ferocious  and  sanguinary  spirit  I  afterward  heard 
imputed  to  them  at  Guatimala,  but  they  spoke  with 
great  bitterness  of  gentlemen  whom  I  considered  per- 
sonal friends,  who,  they  said,  had  been  before  spared 
by  their  lenity ;  and  they  added,  in  tones  that  could  not 
be  misunderstood,  that  they  would  not  make  such  a 
mistake  again. 

In  the  midst  of  this  confusion,  where  was  my  gov* 
emment  ?    I  had  travelled  aU  over  the  country,  led  on 


J 


VHCBRTAIHTT. 

t 

hj  a  glimmering  light  shining  and  disappearing,  and  I 
oould  not  conceal  from  myself  that  the  crisis  of  my  for- 
fooe  was  at  hand.  All  depended  upon  the  success  of 
Morazan'a  expedition.  If  he  failed,  my.  occupation  was 
gone ;  but  in  this  darkest  hour  of  the  Republic  I  did  not 
despair.  In  ten  years  of  war  Morazan  had  never  been 
beaten ;  Carrera  would  not  dare  fight  him ;  Guatimala 
would  &11 ;  the  moral  effect  would  be  felt  all  over  the 
country;  Quezaltenango  would  shake  off  its  chains; 
the  strong  minority  in  the  other  states  would  rise ;  the 
fiag  of  the  Republic  would  once  more  wave  triumphant- 
ly, and  out  of  chaos  the  government  I  was  in  search 
of  would  appear. 

Nevertheless,  I  was  not  so  sure  of  it  as  to  wait  qui- 
etly till  it  came  to  me  at  San  Salvador.  The  result  was 
tery  uncertain,  and  if  it  should  be  a  protracted  war,  I 
might  be  cut  off  from  Guatimala,  without  any  opportu- 
nity of  serving  my  country  by  diplomatic  arts,  and  pre- 
vented from  prosecuting  other  objects  more  interesting 
than  the  uncertain  pursuit  in  which  I  was  then  engaged* 
The  design  which  the  captain  had  in  coming  up  to  San 
Balvador  had  failed ;  he  could  not  join  Morazan's  ex- 
pedition ;  but  he  had  nothing  to  do  at  the  port,  was  anx- 
ious to  see  Guatimala,  had  a  stock  of  jewelry  and  other 
things  which  he  might  dispose  of  there,  and  was  so  sure 
of  Morazan's  success  that  he  determined  to  go  on  and 
pfty  him  a  visit,  and  have  the  benefits  of  balls  and  other 
^joicings  attendant  upon  his  triumph. 

In  the  excitement  and  alarm  of  the  place,  it  was  very 
difficult  to  procure  mules.  As  to  procuring  them  direct 
fcr  Guatimala,  it  was  impossible.  No  one  would  move 
on  that  road  until  the  result  of  Morazan's  expedition 
^8  known  ;  and  even  to  get  them  for  Zonzonate  it  was 
necessary  to  wait  a  day.     That  day  I  intended  to  ab- 


A 


|t4  INCIDBMT«OrTRATEL. 

Btract  myself  from  the  tumult  of  the  <uty  and  ascend  tlM 
Volcano  of  San  Salvador ;  but  the  next  morning  a  womaii 
<same  to  inform  us  that  one  of  our  men  had  been  takan 
by  a  pressgang.of  soldiers,  and  was  in  the  carcel.  Vtt 
followed  her  to  the  place,  and,  being  invited  in  by  thi 
officer  to  pick  out  our  man,  found  ourselves  surrounded 
by  a  hundred  of  Vigil's  volunteers,  of  every  grade  in  ap* 
pearance  and  character,  from  the  firightened  servant-boy 
torn  from  his  master's  door  to  the  worst  of  desperadoes ; 
some  asleep  on  the  ground,  some  smoking  stumps  of  d* 
gars,  some  sullen,  and  others  perfectly  reckless.  Two 
of  the  supreme  worst  did  me  the  honour  to  say  they 
liked  my  looks,  called  me  captain,  and  asked  me  to  take 
them  into  my  company.  Our  man  was  not  ambitious, 
and  could  do  better  than  be  shot  at  for  a  shilling  a  day ; 
but  we  could  not  take  him  out  without  an  order  frora 
the  chief  of  the  state,  and  went  immediately  to  the  office 
of  the  government,  where  I  was  sorry  to  meet  Senof 
Vigil,  as  the  subject  of  my  visit  and  the  secrets  of  the 
prison  were  an  unfortunate  comment  upon  his  boasts  of 
the  enthusiasm  of  the  people  in  taking  up  arms.  With 
his  usual  courtesy,  however,  he  directed  the  proper  or* 
der  to  be  made  out,  and  the  names  of  all  in  my  service 
to  be  sent  to  the  captains  of  the  different  pressgangs, 
with  orders  not  to  touch  them.  All  day  men  were 
caught  and  brought  in,  and  petty  officers  were  stationed 
along  the  street  drilling  them.  In  the  afternoon  intelli* 
gence  was  received  that  General  Morazan's  advanced 
guard  had  defeated  a  detachment  of  Carrera's  troops, 
and  that  he  was  marching  with  an  accession  of  forces 
upon  Guatimala.  A  feu  de  joie  was  fired  in  the  plaiSi 
and  all  the  church  bells  rang  peals  of  victory. 

In  the  evening  I  saw  Seiior  Vigil  again  and  alone 
He  was  confident  of  the  result.     The  Honduras  troopi* 


TAKIHa    OF     aANAIIOUSL.  flfr 

vould  be  repuked  at  Saa  Vicente ;  Morasaa  would 
tike  Guatiniala.  He  urged  me  to  wait;  be  had  hui 
|ireparatione  all  madoi  hie  horses  ready,  and,  on  the  first 
notice  of  Morazaa's  entry,  intended  to  go  up  to  6uati« 
mala  and  establish  that  city  once  more  as  the  capital. 
jSut  I  was  afraid  of  delay,  and  we  parted  to  meet  in 
Guatimala ;  but  we  never  met  again.  A  few  days  af- 
terward he  was  flying  for  his  life,  and  is  now  in  exile, 
linder  sentence  of  death  if  he  returns ;  the  party  that 
rules  Ghiatimala  is  he^qping  opprobrium  upon  his  name ; 
bat  in  the  recollection  of  my  hurried  tour  I  never  for- 
get him  who  had  the  unhappy  distinction  of  being  vice* 
[Nresident  of  the  Republic. 

I  did  not  receive  my  passport  till  late  in  the  evening, 
and  though  I  had  given  directions  to  the  contrary,  the 
captain's  name  was  inserted.  We  had  already  had  a 
difference  of  opinion  in  regard  to  our  movements.  He 
ivas  not  so  bent  as  I  was  upon  pushing  on  to  Guati- 
mala, and  besides,  I  did  not  consider  it  right,  in  an 
official  passport,  to  have  the  name  of  a  partisan.  Ac- 
cordingly, early  in  the  morning  I  went  to  the  Govern'* 
Dient  House  to  have  it  altered.  The  separate  passports 
were  just  handed  to  me  when  I  heard  a  clatter  in  the 
streets,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  horsemen  galloped  into 
the  courtyard,  covered  with  sweat  and  dust,  among 
whom  I  recognised  Colonel  Hoyas,  with  his  noble 
horse,  so  broken  that  I  did  not  know  him.  They  had 
ndden  all  night.  The  Honduras  troops  had  taken  San 
Miguel  and  San  Vicente,  and  were  then  marching  upon 
San  Salvador.  If  not  repulsed  at  Cojutepeque,  that 
day  they  would  be  upon  the  capital.  For  four  days 
I  had  been  running  before  these  troops,  and  now,  by  a 
strange  caprice,  at  the  prospect  of  actual  collision,  I  re- 
gretted that  my  arrangements  were  so  far  advanced, 


i. 


.V 


INCIDENTS    OP    TRAVEL. 

and  that  I  had  no  necessity  for  remaining.  1  had  ft 
strong  curiosity  to  see  a  city  taiien  by  assault,  but,  tui- 
fortunateiy,  I  had  not  the  least  possible  excuse.  I  hod 
my  passport  in  my  hand  and  my  mules  were  ready. 
Nevertheless,  before  I  reached  Don  Pedro's  house  I 
determined  to  remain.  The  captain  had  his  sword  aihl 
spurs  on,  and  was  only  waiting  for  me.  I  told  him  the 
news,  and  he  uttered  an  exclamation  of  thankfulness 
that  we  were  all  ready,  and  mounted  immediately.  I 
added  that  I  intended  to  remain.  He  refused ;  said 
that  he  knew  the  sanguinary  character  of  the  people 
better  than  I  did,  and  did  not  wish  to  see  an  affair 
without  having  a  hand  in  it.  T  replied,  and  after  a 
short  controversy,  the  result  was  as  usual  between  two 
obstinate  men :  I  would  not  go  and  he  would  not  stay. 
I  sent  my  luggage-mules  and  servants  under  his  charge, 
and  he  rode  off,  to  stop  for  mc  at  a  hacienda  on  die 
road,  while  I  unsaddled  my  horse  and  gave  him  an- 
other mess  of  corn. 

In  the  mean  time  the  news  had  spread,  and  great  ex- 
citement prevailed  in  the  city.  Here  there  was  no 
thought  of  flight ;  the  spirit  of  resistance  was  general. 
The  impressed  soldiers  were  brought  out  from  the  pris- 
ons and  furnished  with  arms,  and  drums  beat  through 
the  streets  for  volunteers.  On  my  return  from  the  Gov- 
ernment House  I  noticed  a  tailor  on  his  board  at  work ; 
when  I  passed  again  his  horse  was  at  the  door,  his  sob- 
bing wife  was  putting  pistols  in  his  holsters,  and  he  was 
fastening  on  his  spurs.  Afterward  I  saw  him  mounted 
before  the  quartel,  receiving  a  lance  with  a  red  flag, 
and  then  galloping  off  to  take  his  place  in  the  line.  In 
two  hours,  all  that  the  impoverished  city  could  do 
was  done.  Vigil,  the  chief  of  the  state,  clerks,  and 
household  servants,  were  preparing  for  the  last  strug- 


gle.     At  twelve  o'clock  the  city  was  as  still  as  death. 
I  lounged  on  the  shady  side  of  the  plaza,  and  the 
quiet  was  fearful.     At  two  o'clock  intelligence  was  re- 
ceived  that  the  troops  of  San  Vicente  had  fallen  back 
upon  Gojutepeque,  ittid  that  the  Hofeduras  troops  had 
not  yet  come  up.     An  order  was  immediately  issued  to 
nfoke  this  the  rallying-place,  and  to  send  thither  the 
imistering  of  the  city.     About  two  hundred  lancers  set 
off  from  the  plaza  with  a  feeble  shout,  under  a  burning 
sun,  and  I  returned  to  the  house.     The  commotion  sub- 
sided ;  my  excitement  died  away,  and  I  regretted  that 
I  had  not  set  out  with  the  captain,  when,  to  my  surprise, 
he  rode  lHio  the  courtyard.     On  the  road  he  thought 
that  he  had  left  me  in  the  lurch,  and  that,  as  a  travel- 
ling companion,  he  ought  to  have  remained  with  me. 
I  had  no  such  idea,  but  I  was  glad  of  his  return,  and 
raomited,  and  left  my  capital  to  its  fate,  even  yet  uncer- 
tain whether  I  had  any  government. 

Vol.  II.— H 


■•«*-^*^ 


^  • 


_j^      *  J' 


.«*. 


INCIPBHTfl     OF     TRATiei.. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

CootfibutkNit.— La  BftinD0»d«OuarBinal.— Voleuio  of  Ixalco.— DepredatioM  if 
RascoEL— Zonzonate.— News  iTom  Guatimala.— Journey  contioued. — Aguisri- 
co.— A pcneca.— Mountain  of  Aguachapa.— Subterranean  Fires.— Aguachapa.— 
Defeat  of  Morazan.— Confusion  and  Terror.  ^ 

The  captain  had  given  me  a  hint  in  a  led  horse  which 
he  kept  for  emergencies,  and  I  had  bought  one  of  an 
officer  of  General  Morazan,  who  sold  him  because  he 
would  not  stand  fire,  and  recommended  him  for  a  way 
he  had  of  carrying  his  rider  out  of  the  reach  of  bullets. 
At  the  distance  of  two  leagues  we  reached  a  hacien- 
da  where  our  men  were  waiting  for  us  with  the  luggage. 
It  was  occupied  by  a  miserable  old  man  alone,  with  a 
large  swelling  under  his  throat,  very  common  all  through 
this  country,  the  same  as  is  seen  among  the  mountains 
of  Switzerland.  While  the  men  were  reloading,  we 
heard  the  tramp  of  horses,  and  fifteen  or  twenty  lancers 
galloped  up  to  the  fence  ;  and  the  leader,  a  dark,  stcnii 
but  respectable-looking  man  about  forty,  in  a  deep  voice, 
called  to  the  old  man  to  get  ready  and  mount ;  the  time 
had  come,  he  said,  when  every  man  must  fight  for  his 
country ;  if  they  had  done  so  before,  their  own  ships 
would  be  floating  on  the  Atlantic  and  the  Pacific,  and 
they  would  not  now  be  at  the  mercy  of  strangers  and 
enemies.  Altogether  the  speech  was  a  good  one,  and 
would  have  done  for  a  fourth  of  July  oration  or  a  ward 
meeting  at  home ;  but  made  from  the  back  of  a  horse 
by  a  powerful  man,  well  armed,  and  with  twenty  lan- 
cers at  his  heels,  it  was  not  pleasant  in  the  cars  of  the 
"  strangers"  for  whom  it  was  intended.  Really  I  re-  . 
spccted  the  man's  energy,  but  his  expression  and  man- 
ner precluded  all  courtesies ;  and  though  he  looked  at 


IiETTB&CA&RTiirO*  M 

TIB  fosr  an  aoswA,  we  said  nothing.  The  old  man  an- 
iwered  that  he  was  too  old  to  fight,  and  the  officer  told 
lua  then  to  help  others  to  do  so,  and  to  contribute  his 
lionet  or  mules.  This  touched  us  again ;  and  taking 
ova  aperti  we  left  «)[posed  and  alone  an  object  more 
miierable  as  a  beast  than  his  owner  was  as  a  man* 
T^  (Ad  man  said  this  was  his  all.  The  officer,  look- 
iog  as  if  he  would  like  a  pretext  for  seising  ours,  told 
him  to  give  her  up ;  and  the  old  man,  slowly  untying  her, 
without  a  word  led  her  to  the  fence,  and  handed  the 
halter  across  to  one  of  the  lancers.  They  lau^iad  as 
they  received  the  old  man's  all,  and  pricking  the  mule 
with  their  JflBices,  galloped  off  in  search  of  more  '^  con- 
tribstions." 

Unluckily,  they  continued  on  our  road,  and  we  fear- 
ed that  parties  were  scouring  the  whole  country  to  Zon- 
sooate.  This  brought  to  mind  a  matter  that  gave  us 
nmch  uneasiness.  As  the  mail-routes  were  all  broken 
up,  and  there  was  no  travelling,  I  was  made  letter-ear- 
ner all^  the  way  from  Nicaragua.  I  had  suffered  so 
Quich  anxiety  from  not  receiving  any  letters  myself,  that 
I  was  glad  to  serve  any  one  that  asked  me ;  but  I  had 
heen  treated  with  great  frankness  by  the  "  party"  at 
San  Salvador,  and  was  resolved  not  to  be  the  means  of 
communicating  anything  to  their  enemies ;  and  with  this 
▼iew,  always  asked  whether  the  letters  contained  any 
political  information,  never  taking  them  until  assured 
that  they  did  not.  But  many  of  ihefjj^-  were  to  Mr. 
Chatfield  and  the  other  Ingleses  in  Guatimala.  There 
was  a  most  bitter  feeling  against  Mr.  Chatfield,  and  the 
tttdeness  of  this  really  respectable-looking  man  gave  us 
some  idea  of  the  exasperation  against  foreigners  gener- 
^y ;  and  as  they  were  identified  in  the  revolution,  the 
directions  alone  might  expose  us  to  danger  with  any 
band  of  infuriated  partisans  wbO  might  take  it  into  their 


\ 


INCIDBNTS     or    TRATVl. 

heads  to  search  us  on  the  road.  If  I  haid  had  a  safe  op* 
portunity,  I  should  have  sent  them  back  to  San  Satrador*' 
I  could  not  intrust  them  with  the  old  man,  and  we  dei 
liberated  whether  it  was  not  better  to  return,  and  waifr 
the  crisis  at  the  capital ;  but  we  thought  it  an  object  tm 
get  near  the  coast,  and  perhaps  within  reach  of  a  Tesael^ 
and  determined  to  continue.  In  about  an  hour  we  pa4^ 
ed  the  same  party  dismounted,  at  some  distance  from  tka 
road,  before  the  door  of  a  large  hacienda,  with  some^of 
the  men  inside,  and,  fortunately,  so  far  off  that,  though 
we  heard  them  hallooing  at  us,  we  could  not  understand 
what  they  said.  Soon  after  we  descended  a  wild  moani:^ 
ain-pass,  and  entered  La  Barranca  de  Ghiaramal,  a  nar» 
row  opening,  with  high  perpendicular  sides,  covered 
with  bushes,  wild  flowers,  and  moss,  and  roofed  orer 
by  branches  of  large  trees,  which  crossed  each  other 
from  the  opposite  banks.  A  large  stream  forced  its  way 
through  the  ravine,  broken  by  trunks  of  trees  and  hugs 
stones.  For  half  a  league  our  road  lay  in  the  bed  of 
the  stream,  knee-deep  for  the  mules.  In  one  place,  on 
the  right-hand  side,  a  beautiful  cascade  precipitated  it- 
Hclf  from  the  top  of  the  bank  almost  across  the  ravine. 
A  little  before  dark,  in  a  grassy  recess  at  the  foot  of  the 
bank,  a  pig-merchant  had  encamped  for  the  night.  His 
pigs  were  harnessed  with  straps  and  tied  to  n  tree,  and 
his  wife  was  cooking  supper ;  and  when  we  told  him  at 
the  foraging  party  at  the  other  end  of  the  ravino,  he 
trembled  for  hia  pigs.  Some  time  after  dark  we  reach- 
ed the  hacienda  of  Guaramal.  There  was  plenty  of  sa* 
cate  in  an  adjoining  field,  but  we  could  not  get  any 
one  to  cut  it.  The  major-domo  was  an  old  man,  and^ 
the  workmen  were  afraid  of  snakes.  Bating  thisi 
however,  we  fared  well,  and  had  wooden  bedsteads  to  « 
sleep  on ;  and  in  one  comer  was  a  small  space  parti- 
tio?H»d  off  for  the  maior-domo  and  his  wife. 


DBP&BDATIOIIS     OF    EASOON.  61 

.  Before  daylight  we  were  in  the  eaddtey  and  rode 
lill  eleven,  when  we  stopped  at  a  small  village  to  feed 
ov  mules  and  avoid  the  heat  of  the  day.     At  three  we 
Huted.     Toward  evening  I  heard  <Hice  more  the  deep 
lambling  noise  of  the  Volcano  of  Izaloo,  sounding  like 
jiiisiit  thunder.     We  pasMd  along  its  base,  and  stop- 
lIll  at  the  same  house  at  which  I  had  put  up  on  my 
fkk  to  the  volcano.     The  place  was  in  a  state  of  per- 
fest  anarchy  and  misrule.     Since  my  departure,  Bascon, 
iwdered  more  daring  by  the  abject  policy  of  the  gov* 
tfament,  had  entered  Zonzonate,  robbed  the  custom- 
hooae  again,  laid  contributions  upon  some  of  the  citi- 
mi,  thenee^  marched   to   Isaloo,  and  quartered   his 
whole  band  upon  the  town.     Unexpectedly,  he  was  sur- 
prised at  night  by  a  party  of  Morazan's  soldiers ;  he 
himself  escaped  in  his  shirt,  but  nineteen  of  his  men 
Vde  killed  and  his  band  broken  up.     lately  the  so!- 
diaswere  called  off  to  join  Mcnrasan's  expedition,  and 
die  dispersed  band  emerged  from  their  hiding-places. 
Some  were  then  living  publicly  in  the  town,  perfectly 
hwlesB ;  had  threatened  to  kill  the  alcalde  if  he  attempt- 
ed to  disturb  them,  and  kept  the  town  in  a  state  of  ter- 
Nr.    Among  those  who  reappeared  I  was  told  there  was 
t  young  American  del  Norte,  whom  I  recognised,  from 
die  description,  as  Jemmy,  whom  I  had  put  on  board 
luB  ship  at  Acajutla.     He  and  the  other  American  had 
deserted,  and  attempted  to  cross  over  to  the  Atlantic  on 
foot    On  the  way  they  fell  in  with  RasdlHi's  band  and 
joined' them.     The  other  man  was  killed  at  the  time  of 
tte  rout,  but  Jemmy  escaped.     I  was  happy  to  hear 
flat  Jenuny,  by  his  manners  and  good  conduct,  had 
Hade  a  favourable  impression  upon  the  ladies  of  Izalco. 
fie  remained  only  three  days,  and  whither  he  had  gone 
BO  one  knew. 


82  INCIDSIIT8    OP    TmAT'XLi 

While  listening  to  this  account  we  heard  a  noislfe  in 
the  street,  and  looking  out  of  the  window,  saw  a  niaaM 
the  ground,  and  another  striking  at  him  with  a  wkile 
club,  which  by  the  moonlight  looked  like  the  blade  «f 
a  broadsword  or  machete.  A  crowd  gathered,  mosdy 
of  women,  who  endeavoured  to  keep  liim  off;  but^ift 
struck  among  them  with  blows  that  would  have  kiUM 
the  man  if  they  had  hit  him.  He  was  one  of  the  Ras- 
con  gang,  a  native  of  the  town,  and  known  from  boj^ 
hood  as  a  bad  fellow.  All  called  him  by  name,  and, 
more  by  entreaties  than  force,  made  him  desist.  As  Jic 
walked  off  with  several  of  his  companions,  he  said  thlR 
the  man  was  a  spy  of  Morazan,  and  the  next  lime  he 
met  him  he  would  kill  him.  The  poor  fellow  ww 
senseless ;  and  as  the  women  raised  up  his  head,  wc 
saw  with  horror  hairs  white  as  snow,  and  the  face  of  a 
man  of  seventy.  He  was  all  in  rags,  and  they  told  'in 
that  he  was  a  beggar  and  crazy ;  that  he  had  given  no 
provocation  whatever  ;  but  the  young  scoundrel,  in  pata- 
ing,  happened  to  fix  his  eyes  upon  him,  and  calling 
him  a  spy  of  Mornzan,  knocked  him  down  with  his  dub. 
Very  soon  the  crowd  dispersed,  and  the  women  re- 
mained to  take  care  of  the  old  man.  These  were 
times  which  required  the  natural  charity  of  woman  Id 
be  aided  by  supernatural  strength.  Every  woman 
dreaded  that  her  husband,  son,  or  brother  should  cron 
the  street  at  night,  for  fear  of  quarrels  and  worse  weap- 
ons than  clubs ;  and  we  saw  five  women,  one  with  a 
candle,  without  a  single  man  or  boy  to  help  them,  sup- 
port the  old  man  across  the  street,  and  set  him  up  with 
his  back  against  the  side  of  the  house.  Afterward  a 
woman  came  to  the  door  and  called  to  the  woman 
in  our  house,  that  if  the  young  man  passed  again  he 
would  kill  him ;  and  they  went  out  again  with  a  can- 


die,  carried  him  into  the  courtyard  of  a  hooaci  and 
locked  the  door.  The  reader  will  perhaps  cry  shame 
xifmi  oSy  but  we  went  out  once  and  were  urged  to  re* 
tin,  and  two  men  were  standing  at  the  window  all 
tke  time.  It  was  natural  to  wish  to  break  the  head  of 
the  young  man,  but  it  was  natural  also  to  avoid  bring- 
ing upon  ourselves  a  gang  which,  though  broken,  was 
ttong  enough  to  laugh  at  the  authorities  of  the  town, 
ind  to  waylay  us  in  the  wild  road  we  had  to  pass. 
There  was  one  ominous  circumstance  in  the  affair :  that 
in  a  town  in  the  State  of  San  Salvador,  a  man  dared 
threaten  publicly  to  kill  another  because  he  was  a  par- 
tina  of  Morazan,  showed  a  disaffection  in  that  state 
which  surprised  me  more  than  anything  I  had  yet  en- 
ooQDtered.  Our  men  were  afraid  to  take  the  mules  to 
water,  and  it  was  indispensable  for  them  to  drink. 
We  were  cautioned  against  going  with  them  ;  and  at 
length,  upon  our  standing  in  the  doorway  ready  to 
go  to  their  assistance,  they  set  off  with  loaded  pistols. 
When  I  passed  through  Izalco  before  it  was  a  tranquil 
{dace. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  started,  arrived  at  Zonzonate 
before  breakfast,  and  rode  to  the  house  of  my  friend 
Mr.  Le  Nonvel.  It  was  exactly  two  months  since 
I  left  it,  and,  with  the  exception  of  my  voyage  on  the 
Pacific  and  sickness  at  Costa  Bica,  I  had  not  had  a 
day  of  repose. 

I  was  now  within  four  days  of  Guatimala,  but  the 
difficulty  of  going  on  was  greater  than  ever.  The  cap- 
iun  could  procure  no  mules.  No  intelligence  had  been 
leceived  of  Morazan's  movements ;  intercourse  was  en- 
tirely broken  off,  business  at  a  stand,  and  the  people 
anxiously  waiting  for  news  from  Guatimala.  Nobody 
would  set  out  on  that  road«     I  was  very  much  distress* 


04  INCIDENTS    OF    TBATNIi. 

ed.  My  engagement  with  Mr.  Catherwood  was  for  Ifr 
specific  time ;  the  rainy  season  was  coining  on,  and  hf^ 
the  loss  of  a  month  I  should  be  prevented  visiting  Eli* 
lenqtie.  I  considered  it  actually  safer  to  pass  throii|^ 
while  all  was  in  this  state  of  suspense,  than  after  ikm' 
floodgates  of  war  were  opened.  Rascon's  band  hmi 
prevented  my  passing  the  road  before,  and  other  Rd|k 
cons  might  spring  up.  The  captain  had  not  the  saiM 
inducement  to  push  ahead  that  I  had.  I  had  no  idea  of 
incurring  any  unnecessary  risk,  and  on  the  road  would 
have  had  no  hesitation  at  any  time  in  putting  spurs  to 
my  horse ;  but,  on  deliberate  consideration,  my  mind 
was  so  fully  made  up  that  I  determined  to  procure  a 
guide  at  any  price,  and  set  out  alone. 

In  the  midst  of  my  perplexity,  a  tall,  thin,  gaunt-look- 
ing  Spaniard,  whose  name  was  Don  Saturnine  Tinocha, 
came  to  see  mc.  He  was  a  merchant  from  Costa  Rica, 
BO  far  on  his  way  to  Guatimala,  and,  by  the  advice  of 
his  friends  rather  than  his  own  judgment,  had  been  aU 
ready  waiting  a  week  at  Zonzonate.  He  was  exactly 
in  the  humour  to  suit  mc,  very  anxious  to  reach  Guati- 
mala  ;  and  his  views  and  opinions  were  just  the  same  an 
mine.  The  captain  was  indifferent,  and,  at  all  events, 
could  not  go  unless  he  could  procure  mules.  I  told  Don 
Saturnine  that  I  would  go  at  all  events,  and  he  under* 
took  to  provide  for  the  captain.  In  the  evening  he  re- 
turned, with  intelligence  that  he  had  scoured  the  town 
and  could  not  procure  a  single  mule,  but  he  offered  to 
leave  two  of  his  own  cargoes  and  take  the  captain's,  or 
to  sell  him  two  of  his  mules.  I  offered  to  lend  him  my 
horse  or  macho,  and  the  matter  was  arranged. 

In  the  midst  of  the  war-rumours,  the  next  day,  whieb 
was  Sunday,  was  one  of  the  most  quiet  I  passed  in  Cen- 
tral America.     It  was  at  the  hacienda  of  Dr.  DrivoB, 


irSWl     FROM     GVATIMALA. 

ibout  a  league  from  Zonzonate.    This  was  one  of  the 
ine^t  haciendas  in  the  country.     The  doctor  had  import- 
ed a  large   sugar    mill,  "virhich  was  not  yet  set  up,  and 
Unm  preparing  to  manufacture  sugar  upon  a  larger  scale 
dbui  any  other  planter  in  the  country.     He  was  from 
lie  island  of  St.  Lucie  and,  before  sitting  down  in  this 
At-of-the-way  place,  bod  travelled  extensively  in  Eu- 
i6pe  and  all  the  West  India  Islands,  and  knew  Amer- 
ica from  Halifax  to  Cape  Horn ;  but  surprised  me  by 
Kying  that  he  looked  forward  to  a  cottage  in  Morristown, 
New-Jersey,  as  the  consummation  of  his  wishes.     I 
ktmed  from  him  that  Jemmy,  after  his  disappearance 
ftom  Izalco,  had  straggled  to  his  hacienda  in  wretched 
condition  and  sick  of  campaigning,  and  was  then  at  the 
port  on  board  the  Cosmopolita,  bound  for  Peru. 

On  our  return  to  Zonzonate  we  were  again  in  the 
oudst  of  tumult.  Two  of  Captain  D'Yriarte's  passen- 
fers  for  Guayaquil,  whom  he  had  given  up,  arrived  that 
evening  direct  from  Guatimala,  and  reported  that  Car- 
foa,  with  two  thousand  men,  had  left  the  city  at  the 
Mone  time  with  them  to  march  upon  San  Salvador.  Car- 
nra  knew  nothing  of  Morazan's  approach ;  his  troops 
verc  a  disorderly  and  tumultuous  mass;  and  three 
kagaes  from  the  city,  when  they  halted,  the  horses 
were  already  tired.  Here  our  informants  slipped  away, 
•nd  three  hours  afterward  met  Morazan's  army,  in 
good  order,  marching  single  file,  with  M orazan  himself 
tt  their  head,  he  and  all  his  cavalry  dismounted  and 
leading  their  horses,  which  were  fresh  and  ready  for 
hmediate  action.  Morazan  stopped  them,  and  made 
them  show  their  passports  and  letters,  and  they  told  him 
rf  the  sally  of  Carrera's  army,  and  its  condition ;  and 
•re  all  formed  the  conclusion  that  Morazan  had  attacked 
Ihem  the  same  day,  defeated  them,  and  was  then  io 
Vol.  n.— I 


lirCIDBVTt     or    TRIVBL. 

possession  of  Guiatimala.  Upon  the  whole,  we  consid^ 
ered  the  news  favourable  to  us,  as  his  first  businett 
would  be  to  make  the  roads  secure. 

At  three  o'clock  the  next  morning  we  were  again  m 
the  saddle.  A  stream  of  fire  was  rolling  down  the  Vcrf- 
cano  of  Izalco,  bright,  but  paler  by  the  moonlight.  Tht 
road  was  good  for  two  leagues,  when  we  reached  the 
Indian  village  of  Aguisalco.  Our  mules  were  overload- 
ed,  and  one  of  Don  Saturnino's  gave  out  entirely.  We 
tried  to  procure  others  or  Indian  carriers,  but  no  one 
would  move  from  home.  Don  Saturnine  loaded  his 
saddle-mule,  and  walked ;  and  if  it  had  not  been  for 
his  indefatigable  perseverance,  wc  should  have  been 
compelled  to  stop. 

At  one  o'clock  we  reached  Apeneco,  and  rode  up  to 
one  of  the  best  houses,  where  an  old  man  and  his  wife 
undertook  to  give  us  breakfast.  Our  mules  presented 
a  piteous  spectucle.  Mine,  which  had  carried  my  light 
luggage  like  a  feather  all  the  way  from  La  Union,  had 
gone  on  with  admirable  steadiness  up  hill  and  down 
dale,  but  when  we  stopped  she  trembled  in  every  limb, 
and  before  the  cargo  was  removed  I  expected  to  see  h€Pr 
fall.  Nicolas  and  the  muleteer  said  she  would  certainly 
*  die,  and  the  faithful  brute  seemed  to  l(X>k  at  me  re* 
proachfully  for  having  suffered  so  heavy  a  load  to  be  put 
upon  her  back.  I  tried  to  buy  or  hire  another,  but  ail 
were  removed  one  or  two  days'  journey  out  of  the  line 
of  march  of  the  soldiers. 

It  was  agreed  that  I  should  go  on  to  Aguachapa  and 
endeavour  to  have  other  mules  ready  early  the  next 
morning;  but  in  the  mean  time  the  captain  conceived 
some  suspicions  of  the  old  man  and  woman,  and  re- 
solved not  to  remain  that  night  in  the  village.  Fortu- 
nately, my  mule  revived  and  began  to  eat.     Don  Sat 


ARE6IONOFVI1IB.  61 

imino  rq>eated  his  'sta  bueno,  with   which  he   had 
ckeered  us  through  all  the  perplexities  of  the  day,  and 
we  determined  to  set  out  again.     Neither  of  us  had  any 
kiggage  he  was  ^villing  to  leave,  for  in  all  probability 
he  wonld  never  see  it  again.     We  loaded  our  saddle- 
beaster  and  walked.     Immediately  on  leaving  the  village 
we  ccHmmenced  ascending  the  mountain  of  Aguachapa, 
the  longest  and  worst  in  the  whole  road,  in  the  wet  sea- 
son requiring  two  days  to  cross  it.     A  steep  pitch  at 
the  beginning  made  me  tremble  fcHr  the  result.     The  as- 
eeat  was  about  three  miles,  and  on  the  very  crest,  im- 
liowered  among  the  trees,  was  a  blacksmith's  shop, 
eommanding  a  view  of  the  whole  country  back  to  the 
tiUage,  and  on  the  other  side,  of  the  slope  of  the  mount- 
*   am  to  the  plain  of  Aguachapa.     The  clink  of  the  ham- 
mer and  the  sight  of  a  smith's  grimed  face  seemed  a 
profanation  of  the  beauties  of  the  scene.     Here  our  dif- 
ficulties were  over ;  the  rest  of  our  road  was  down  hill. 
The  road  lay  along  the  ridge  of  the  mountain.     On  our 
Tight  we  looked  down  the  perpendicular  side  to  a  plain 
two  thousand  feet  below  us ;  and  in  front,  on  another 
part  of  the  same  plain,  were  the  lake  and  town  of 
Agoachapa.     Instead  of  going  direct  to  the  town,  we 
iorned  round  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  and  came  into 
&  field  smoking  with  hot  springs.     The  ground  was 
inerusted  with  sulphur,  and  dried  and  baked  by  sub- 
terranean fires.     In   some  places  were  large  orifices, 
from  which  steam  rushed   out  violently  and  with  noise, 
sod  in   others   large   pools  or  lakes,   one   of  them  a 
fcondred  and  fifty  feet  in  circumference,  of  dark  bro%vn 
Water,  boiling  with  monstrous  bubbles  three  or  four  feet 
high,  which  Homer  might  have  made  the  head-waters 
of  Acheron.     All  around,  for  a  great  extent,  the  earth 
was  in  a  state  of  combustion,  burning  our  boots  and 


* 


INCIDENTS     or    TRATJBL. 

frightening  the  horses,  and  we  were  obliged  to  be  cav^ 
ful  to  keep  the  horses  from  falling  through.  At  soim 
distance  was  a  stream  of  sulphur-water,  which  we  fo^ 
lowed  up  to  a  broad  basin,  made  a  dam  with  stones 
and  bushes,  and  had  a  most  refreshing  warm  bath* 

It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  entered  the  town,  tlie 
frontier  of  the  state  and  the  outpost  of  danger.  Ali 
were  on  the  tiptoe  of  expectation  for  news  from  Guati^ 
mala.  Riding  through  the  plaza,  we  saw  a  new  corfM 
of  about  two  hundred  '*  patriot  soldiers,"  uniformed  and 
equipped,  at  evening  drill,  which  was  a  guarantee  agaimit 
the  turbulence  we  had  seen  in  Izalco.  Colonel  Angoo^ 
ia,  the  commandant,  was  the  same  who  had  broken  up 
the  band  of  Rascon.  Every  one  we  met  was  astoniahp 
ed  at  our  purpose  of  going  on  to  Guatimala,  and  it  was 
vexatious  and  discouraging  to  have  ominous  cautions 
psrpetually  dinned  into  our  ears.  We  rode  to  the  house 
of  the  widow  Padilla,  a  friend  of  Don  Saturnino,  whom 
we  found  in  great  affliction.  Her  eldest  son,  on  a  vial 
to  Guatimala  on  business,  with  a  regular  passport,  had 
been  thrown  into  prison  by  Carrera,  and  had  then  been 
a  month  in  confinement ;  and  she  had  just  learned,  what 
had  been  concealed  from  her,  that  the  other  son,  a  young 
man  just  twenty-one,  had  joined  Morazan's  expedition. 
Our  purpose  of  going  to  Guatimala  opened  the  fountain 
of  her  sorrows.  She  mourned  for  her  sons,  but  the  case 
of  the  younger  seemed  to  give  her  most  distress.  She 
mourned  that  he  had  become  a  soldier ;  she  hnd  seen 
BO  much  of  the  horrors  of  war ;  and,  as  if  speaking  of  a 
truant  boy,  begged  us  to  urge  General  Morazan  to  send 
him  home.  She  was  still  in  blnck  for  their  father,  who 
was  a  personal  friend  of  General  Morazan,  and  had, 
besides,  three  daughters,  all  young  women,  the  elcicat 
not  more  than  twenty-three,  married  to  Colonel  Molina, 


TIJ>IH»8    Of     BIfAITSB.  M 

tJM- second  in  command ;  all  were  eelelnrated  in  that 
country  for  their  beauty ;  and  though  the  circum- 
nances  of  the  night  prevented  my  seeixig  much  of 
tbem,  I  looked  upon  this  as  one  of  the  most  lady- 
like and  interesting  family  groups  I  had  seen  in  the 
eountry. 

Our  first  inquiry  was  for  mules.     Colonel  Molina,  the 
son-in-law,  after  endeavouring  to  dissuade  us  from  con- 
tinuing, sent  out  to  make  inquiries,  and  the  result  was 
tiiat  there  were  none  to  hire,  but  there  was  a  man  who 
hid  two  to  sell,  and  who  promised  to  bring  them  early 
in  the  morning.    We  had  vexations  enough  without  add- 
ing any  between  ourselves ;  but,  unfortunately,  the  cap- 
tain and  Don  Saturnine  had  an  angry  quarrel,  growing 
out  of  the  breaking  down  of  the  mules.     I  was  appeal- 
ed to  by  both,  and  in  trying  to  keep  the  peace  came 
Bear  having  both  upon  me.     The  dispute  was  so  violent 
that  none  of  the  female  part  of  the  family  appeared  in 
the  sala,  and  while  it  was  pending  Colonel  Molina  was 
called  off  by  a  message  from  the  commandant.    In  half 
^hour  he  returned,  and  told  us  that  two  soldiers  had 
just  entered  the  town,  who  reported  that  Morazan  had 
heen  defeated  in  his  attack  on  Guatimala,  and  his  whole 
^naj  routed  and  cut  to  pieces ;  that  he  himself,  with 
^teen  dragoons,  was  escaping  by  the  way  of  the  coast, 
^  the  whole  of  Carrera's  army  was  in  full  pursuit, 
^e  soldiers  were  at  first  supposed  to  be  deserters,  but 
Ihey  were  recognised  by  some  of  the  town's  people ; 
^d  after  a  careful  examination  and  calculation  of  the 
l^)se  of  time  since  the  last  intelligence,  the  news  was 
believed  to  be  true.     The  consternation  it  created  in 
our  little  housc^hold  cannot  be  described.     Morazan's 
defeat  was  the  death-knell  of  sons  and  brothers.     It 


,•1 


70  INCIDBMTa     OP  TRATBL. 

was  not  a  moment  for  strangers  to  offer  idle  consoW 
tion,  and  we  withdrew. 

Our  own  plans  were  unsettled;  the  very  dangers  I 
feared  had  happened ;  the  soldiers,  who  had  been  kepi 
together  in  massesi  were  disbanded  to  sweep  every  road 
in  the  country  with  the  ferocity  of  partisan  war.  But 
for  the  night  we  could  do  notliing.  Our  men  were  al- 
ready asleep,  and,  not  without  apprehensions,  the  captaio 
and  I  retired  to  a  room  opening  upon  the  courtyard. 
Don  Saturnino  wrapped  himself  in  his  poncha  and  lay 
down  under  the  corridor. 

None  of  us  undressed,  but  the  fatigue  of  the  day  had 
been  so  great  that  I  soon  fell  into  a  profound  sleep. 
At  one  o'clock  wc  were  roused  by  Colonel  Molina 
shouting  in  the  doorway  "  La  gcnte  vienne  !"  "  The 
people  are  coming!"  Ilis  sword  glittered,  his  spurs 
rattled,  and  by  the  moonlight  I  siiw  men  saddling  horses 
in  the  courtyard.  We  sprang  up  in  a  moment,  and  hs 
told  us  to  save  ourselves;  *'Ia  geiitc"  were  coming, 
and  within  two  hours'  march  of  tlie  town.  Mv  first 
question  was,  What  had  become  of  the  soldiers?  They 
were  already  marching  out ;  everybody  was  preparing 
to  fly ;  he  intended  to  escort  the  ladies  to  a  hiding- 
place  in  the  mountains,  and  then  to  overtake  the  sol- 
diers. I  must  confess  that  my  lirst  thought  was  ^' devil 
take  the  hindmost,"  and  I  ordered  Nicolas,  who  was 
fairly  blubbering  with  fright,  to  saddle  for  a  start.  The 
captain,  however,  objected,  insist ini^  that  to  lly  would 
be  to  identify  ourselves  with  the  fugitives;  and  if  we 
were  overtaken  with  them  we  should  certainlv  be  mas- 
sacred.  Don  Saturnino  proposed  to  set  out  on  our 
journey,  and  go  straight  on  to  a  hncionda  two  leagues 
beyond  ;  if  .we  met  them  on  the  road  we  would  appear 
as  travellers  ;  in  their  hurry  they  would  let  us  pass; 


CWTVBlon    AlTD    TERROR.  71 

tnd|  at  oil  events,  we  wonld  avoid  the  dangers  of  a 
general  sacking  and  plunder  of  the  town.     I  approved 
of  this  suggestion  ;  the  fact  is,  I  was  for  anything  that 
put  us  on  horseback ;  but  the  captain  again  opposed  it 
violently.     Unluckily,  he  had  four  large,  heavy  trunks 
containing  jewelry  and  other  valuables,  and  no  mules 
to  carry  them.     I  made  a  hurried  but  feeling  comment 
npon  the  comparative  value  of  life  and  property;  but 
the  captain  said  that  all  he  was  worth  in  the  world  was 
in  those  trunks;  he  would  not  leave  them;  he  would 
not  risk  them  on  the  road ;  he  would  defend  them  as 
long  as  he  had  life ;  and,  taking  them  up  one  by  one 
from  the  corridor,  he  piled  them  inside  of  our  little 
aleeping-room,  shut  the  door,  and  swore  that  nobody 
should  get  into  them  without  passing  over  his  dead 
body.     Now  I,  for  my  dwn  part,  would  have  taken  a 
quiet  stripping,  and  by  no  means  approved  this  desper- 
ate purpose  of  the  captain's.     The  fact  is,  I- was  very 
differently  situated  from  him.     My  property  was  chiefly 
in  horseflesh  and  muleflesh,  at  the  moment  the  most  desi- 
rable thing  in  which  money  coidd  be  invested ;  and  with 
two  hours'  start,  I  would  have  defied  all  the  Cachurc- 
cos  in  Guatimala  to  catch  me.     But  the  captain's  deter- 
mination put  an  end  to  all  thoughts  of  testing  the  sound- 
ness of  my  investment ;  and  perhaps,  at  all  events,  it 
was  best  to  remain. 

I  entered  the  house,  where  the  old  lady  and  her 
daughters  were  packing  up  their  valuables,  and  passed 
through  to  the  street.  The  church  bells  were  tolling 
with  a  frightful  sound,  and  a  horseman,  with  a  red  ban- 
neret on  the  point  of  his  lance,  was  riding  through  the 
streets  warning  the  inhabitants  to  fly.  Horses  were 
standing  before  the  doors  saddled  and  brftled,  and  all 
^ong  men  were  issuing  from  the  doors  with  loads  on 


7S  INCIDENTS     OrTRATSI. 

their  backs,  and  women  with  packages  and  bundles  m 
their  hands,  and  hurrying  children  before  them.     The 
moon  was   beaming  with  unrivalled   splendour ;    the 
women  did  not  scream,  the  children  did  not  cry  ;  ter- 
ror was  in  every  faee  and  movement,  but  too  deep  for 
utterance.     I  walked  down  to  the  church ;  the  cmrn 
was  at  the  altar,  receiving  hurried  confessions  and  ad- 
ministering the  sacrament ;  and  as  the  wretched  inhab- 
itants left  the  altar  they  fled  from  the  town.     I  saw  a 
poor  mother  searching  for  a  missing  child;  but  her 
friends,  in  hoarse  whispers,  said,  ^'  La  gente  vienne !" 
and  hurried  her  away.     A  long  line  of  fugitives,  witb 
loaded  mules  interspersed,  was  moving  from  the  door 
of  the  church,  and  disappearing  beneath  the  brow  of 
the  hill.     It  was  the  first  time  I  ever  saw  terror  operating 
upon  masses,  and  I  hope  never  to  see  it  again.     I  went 
back  to  the  house.     The  family  of  Padilla  had  not  left, 
and  the  poor  widow  was  still  packing  up.     We  urged 
Colonel  Molina  to  hasten ;  as  commandant,  he  would 
be  the  first  victim.     He  knew  his  danger,  but  in  a  tone 
of  voice  that  told  the  horrors  of  this  partisan  war,  said 
he  could  not  leave  behind  him  the  young  women.    .In 
a  few  moments  all  was  ready ;  the  old  lady  ^avc  U9  the 
key  of  the  house,  we  exchanged  the  Spanish  farewell 
with  a  mutual  recommendation  to  God,  and  sndlv  and 
silently  they  left  the  town.     Colonel  Molina  remnined 
a  moment  behind.     Again  he  urged  us  to  fly,  saying 
that  the  enemy  were  robbers,  murderers,  and  assassins, 
who  would  pay  no  respect  to  person  or  character,  and 
disappointment   at  finding  the  town  deserted    would 
make  them  outrageous  with  us,     lit;  drove  his  spurs 
into  his  horse,  and  we  never  sjiw  him  again.     On  the 
steps  of  th# church  were  sick  and  infirm  old  men  and 
children,  and  the  cura's  house  was  tlirongcd  with  the 


■    # 

* 

same  helpless  beings.  Exc^t  these,  we  were  left  in 
sole  possession  of  the  town. 

It  was  not  yet  an  hour  since  we  had  been  roused 
from  sleep.  We  had  not  been  able  to  procure  any  def- 
inite information  as  to  the  character  of  the  approaching 
force.  The  alarm  was  ''  la  gente  yienne  ;^'  no  one  knew 
or  thought  of  more,  no  one  paid  any  attention  to  us, 
and  we  did  not  know  whether  the  whole  army  of  Car- 
rera  was  approaching,  or  merely  a  roving  detachment. 
If  the  former,  my  hope  was  that  Carrera  was  with 
them,  and  that  he  had  not  forgotten  my  diplomatic 
eoat ;  I  felt  rejoiced  that  the  soldiers  had  marched  out, 
azid  that  the  inhabitants  had  fled ;  there  could  be  no  re* 
sislance,  no  bloodshed,  nothing  to  excite  a  lawless  sol* 
diery.  Again  we  walked  down  to  the  church;  old 
iromen  and  little  boys  gathered  around  us,  and  wonder* 
ed  that  we  did  not  fly.  We  went  to  tl^  door  of  the 
cnva's  house ;  the  room  was  small,  and  full  of  old  worn* 
en.  We  tried  to  cheer  them,  but  old  i^  had  lost  its 
garrulity;  they  waited  their  fate  in  silence.  We  re* 
turned  to  the  house,  smoked,  and  waited  in  anxioili 
expectation.  The  enemy  did  not  come,  the  bell  oeas* 
ed  its  frightful  tolling,  and  after  a  while  we  began  to 
wish  they  would  come,  and  let  us  have  the  thing  over. 
We  went  out,  and  looked,  and  listened ;  but  there  was 
neither  sound  nor  motion.  We  became  positively  tired 
of  waiting ;  there  were  still  two  hours  to  daylight ;  we 
lay  down,  and,  strange  to  say,  again  fell  asleep. 

Vol.  II.— K  7 


^'^ 


• 


• 


74  INCIDBNTS    OF    TBATKL. 


CHAPTER  V. 

Approach  of  Canen't  Forces.— Terror  of  the  Infaabitente.— Tbair  FUfht-^v 
render  of  the  TowiL^Ferocity  of  the  Soldiery.^A  BolletiD.~Diploinac]r. — A 
Passport'A  Breakfast— An  Alarm.— The  Widow  Padilla.— An  Attack.— De- 
feat of  Carrera's  Forces.— The  Town  taken  by  General  Morazan-— His  E^nCif. 
— The  Widow's  Son.— Visit  to  General  Morazan.— Hia  Appearance,  Chaiaoler, 
6lc. — Plans  deranged. 

It  was  broad  daylight  when  we  woke,  without  any 
machete  cuts,  and  still  in  undisturbed  possession  of  the 
town.  My  first  thought  was  for  the  mules ;  they  had 
eaten  up  their  sacate,  and  had  but  a  poor  chance  fcnr 
more,  but  I  sent  them  immediately  to  the  river  for  wap 
ter.  They  had  hardly  gone  when  a  little  boy  ran  in 
from  the  church,  and  told  us  that  la  gente  were  in 
sight.  We  hurried  back  with  him,  and  the  miserable 
beings  on  the  steps,  with  new  terrors,  supposing  that 
we  were  friends  of  the  invaders,  begged  us  to  save 
them.  Followed  by  three  or  four  trembling  boys,  we 
ascended  to  the  steeple,  and  saw  the  Cachurecos  at  a 
distance,  descending  the  brow  of  a  hill  in  single  file,  their 
muskets  glittering  in  the  sunbeams.  We  saw  that  it 
was  not  the  whole  of  Carrera's  army,  but  apparently 
only  a  pioneer  company  ;  but  they  were  too  many  for 
us,  and  the  smallness  of  their  numbers  gave  them  the 
appearance  of  a  lawless  predatory  band.  They  had 
still  to  cross  a  long  plain  and  ascend  the  hill  on  which 
the  town  was  built.  The  bellrope  was  in  reach  of  my 
hand ;  I  gave  it  one  strong  pull,  and  telling  the  boys  to 
sound  loud  the  alarm,  hurried  down.  As  w^e  passed  out 
of  the  church,  we  heard  loud  cries  from  the  old  women 
in  the  house  of  the  cura ;  and  the  old  men  and  children 
on  the  steps  asked  us  whether  they  would  be  murdered. 


is^ 


•  VRASNBBR*  TO 

The  midas  had  not  returned^  and,  afraid  of  their 
being  intercepted  in  the  street,  I  ran  down  a  steep  hill 
toward  the  river,  and  meeting  them,  hurried  back  tp 
the  house.     While  doing  so  I  saw  at  the  extreme  end 
ot  the  street  a  single  soldier  moTing  cautiously ;  and 
watching  carefully  every  house,  as  if  suspecting  treach- 
ery, ha  advanced  with  a  letter  directed  to  Colonel  An- 
gola.    The   captain  told   him  that  he  must  seek  An- 
gola   among  the  mountains.     We  inquired  the  name 
of  his  eommanding  officer,  how  many  men  he  had,  said 
iM  there  was  no  one  to  oppose  him,  and  forthwith  sur- 
cendered  the  town.    The  man  could  hardly  believe  that 
it  was  deserted.     General  Figoroa  did  not  know  it; 
bs  had  halted  at  a  short  distance,  a£raid  to  make  the  at- 
tacks at  night,  and  was  then  expecting  immediate  battle^ 
He  himself  could  not  have  been  much  better  pleased  at 
avoiding  it  than  we  were.     The  envoy  returned,  and  in 
a  short  time  we  saw  at  the  extreme  ^nd  of  the  street 
the  neck  of  a  horse  protruding  from  the^oross-street  on 
the  left     A  party  of  cavalry  armed  with  lances  foUow- 
cul,  farmed  at  the  head  of  the  street,  looking  about  them 
carefully  as  if  still  suspecting  an  ambush.     In  a  few 
moments  General  Figoroa,  mounted  on  a  fierce  little 
horse,  without  uniform,  but  with  dark  wool  saddle-cloth, 
pistols,  and  basket-hilted  sword,  making  a  warlike  ap- 
pearance, came  up,  leading  the  van.     We  todk  off  our 
hats  as  he  approached  our  door,  and  he  returned  the  sa- 
lute.   About   a  hundred  lancers  followed  him,    two 
abreast,  with  red  flags  on  the  ends  of  tkeir  lances,  and 
jHStols  in  their  holsters.     In  passing,  one  ferocious-look- 
ing fellow  looked  fiercely  at  us,  and  grasping  his  lance, 
cried  '*  Viva  Carrera."     We  did  not  answer  it  imme- 
diately, and  he  repeated  it  in  a  tone  that  brought  forth 
the  response  louder  and  more  satisftu>tory,  from  the 


.« 

•^ 
* 


76  INCIDBNTtOVTRATSL. 

qpite  with  whio^  it  wa»  given  ;  the  next  man  repeated 
it,  and  the  next ;  and  before  we  were  aware  of  our  po^ 
eition,  every  lancer  that  paasedi  in  a  tone  of  voice  reg* 
nlated  by  the  gentleness  or  the  ferocity  of  bis  dispose 
tion,  and  sometimes  with  a  most  threatening  scowU  pm 
to  us  as  a  touchstone  ^^  Viva  Garrera.'^  •  * 

The  infantry  were  worse  than  the  lancers  in  af^eav* 
ance,  being  mostly  Indians,  ragged,  half  naked,  with 
old  straw  hats  and  barefooted,  armed  with  muskets  smi 
machetes,  and  many  with  oldfashioned  Spanish  Unii* 
derbusses.  They  vied  with  each  other  in  sharpness  ani 
ferocity,  and  sometimes  actually  levelling  their  pieeaai 
cried  at  us  "  Viva  Carrera."  We  were  taken  comi^ 
pletely  unawares ;  there  was  no  escape,  and  I  believe 
they  would  have  shot  us  down  on  the  spot  if  we  had  !•> 
fused  to  echo  the  cry.  I  compromised  with  my  dignity 
by  answering  no  louder  than  the  urgency  of  the  case  r^ 
quired,  but  I  never  passed  through  a  more  trying  ordeaL 
Don  Saturnino  had  had  the  prudence  to  keep  out  of 
sight ;  but  the  captain,  who  had  intended  to  campaign 
against  these  fellows,  never  flinched,  and  when  the  last 
man  passed  added  an  extra  ^*  Viva  Carrera."  I  again 
felt  rejoiced  that  the  soldiers  had  left  the  town  and  that 
there  had  been  no  fight.  It  would  have  been  a  fearful 
thing  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  such  men,  with  their  pai^ 
sions  roused  by  resistance  and  bloodshed.  Reaching 
the  plaea,  they  gave  a  general  shout  of  "  Viva  Carrera^" 
and  stacked  their  arms.  In  a  few  minutes  a  party  of 
them  came  down  to  our  house  and  asked  for  breakfast ; 
and  when  we  could  not  give  them  that,  they  begged  a 
medio  or  sixpence.  By  degrees  others  came  in,  until 
the  room  was  full.  They  were  really  no  great  gainers 
by  taking  the  town.  They  had  had  no  breakfast,  and 
the  town  was  completely  stripped  of  eatables.     We  ia» 


ABVLLBTtN.  77 

qftiired  the  news  from  Guatimala,  and  bought  from  them 
several  copies  of  the  "  Paarte  Official"  of  the  Supreme 
Government^  headed  "  Viva  la  Patria  !    Viva  el  Gener- 
tl  Carrera !    The  enemy  has  been  completely  extermi- 
nated in  his  attack  upon  this  city,  which  he  intended  to 
devastate.     The  tyrant  Morazan  flies  terrified,  leaving 
the  plaza  and  streets  strewed  with  corpses  sacrificed  to 
Ids  criminal  ambition.     The  principal  officers  associated 
in  his  staff  have  perished,  &c.     Eternal  glory  to  the  In- 
vhieible  Chief  G^iceral  Carrera,  and  the  valiant  troops 
iinder  his  command."    They  told  us  that  Carrera,  with 
three  thousand  men,  was  in  full  pursuit.     In  a  little 
while  the  demand  for  sixpences  became  so  frequent, 
that,  afiraid  of  being  supposed  to  have  mucha  plata, 
we  walked  to  the  plaza  to  present  ourselves  to  General 
FigOToa,  and  settle  the  terms  of  our  surrender,  or,  at  all 
events,  to  "  define  our  position."     We  found  him  at 
the  cabildo,  quite  at  home,  with  a  parcel  of  officers, 
white  men,  Mestitzoes,  and  mulattoes,  amoking,  and  in- 
terrogating some  old  men  from  the  church  as  to  the 
movements  of  Colonel  Angiila  and  the    soldiers,  the 
time  of  their  setting  out,  and  the  direction  they  took. 
He  was  a  yoimg  man — all  the  men  in  that  country  were 
young — about  thirty-two  or  three,  dressed  in  a  snuff-col- 
oured cloth  roundabout  jacket,  and  pantaloons  of  the 
same  colour ;  and  off  his  ivarhorse,  and  away  from  his 
assassin-like  band,  had  very  much  the  air  of  an  honest 
man. 

It  was  one  of  the  worst  evils  of  this  civil  war  that  no 
respect  was  paid  to  the  passports  of  opposite  parties. 
The  captain  had  only  his  San  Salvador  passport,  which 
was  here  worse  than  worthless.  Don  Saturnino  had  a 
variety  from  partisan  commandants,  and  upon  this  oc* 
casion  made  use  of  one  from  a  colonel  under  Ferrera. 


.^ 


78  INCIDINT8    OF    TRATBL. 

The  captain  introduced  me  by  the  title  of  Se&or  Minif* 
tro  del  Norte  America,  and  Imade  myaelf  acceptable  tf 
saying  that  I  had  been  to  San  Salvador  in  search  of  t 
government,  and  had  not  been  able  to  find  any*  II110 
fact  is,  although  I  was  not  able  to  get  into  regular  b» 
siness,  I  was  practising  diplomacy  on  my  own  account 
all  the  time ;  and  in  order  to  define  at  once  and  clearly 
our  relative  positions,  I  undertook  to  do  the  honours  ef 
the  town,  and  invited  General  Figoroa  and  all  his  ofiU 
cers  to  breakfast.  This  was  a  bold  stroke,  but  TaUey* 
rand  could  not  have  touched  a  nicer  chord.  They  had 
not  eaten  anything  since  noon  the  day  before,  and  I  be* 
lieve  they  would  have  evacuated  their  empty  cenquail 
for  a  good  breakfast  all  round.  They  accepted  n^ 
invitation  with  a  promptness  that  put  an  end  to  my 
small  stock  of  provisions  for  the  road.  Greneral  Figo^ 
roa  confirmed  the  intelligence  of  M orazan's  defeat  and 
flight,  and  Carrera's  pursuit,  and  the  *'  invincible  chief'' 
would  perhaps  have  been  somewhat  surprised  at  tlia 
pleasure  I  promised  myself  in  meeting  him. 

With  a  very  few  moments'  interchange  of  opinioii| 
we  made  up  our  minds  to  get  out  of  this  firontier  town 
as  soon  as  possible,  and  again  to  go  forward.  I  had 
almost  abandoned  ulterior  projects,  and  looked  only  to 
personal  safety.  To  go  back,  we  reasoned,  would  car- 
ry us  into  the  very  focus  of  war  and  danger.  The  San 
Salvador  people  were  furious  against  strangers,  and  the 
Honduras  troops  were  invading  them  on  one  side,  and 
Carrcra's  hordes  on  the  other.  To  remain  where  we 
were  was  certain  exposure  to  attacks  from  both  parties. 
By  going  on  we  would  meet  Carrera's  troops,  and  if  we 
passed  them  we  left  war  behind  us.  We  had  but  one 
risk,  and  that  would  be  tested  in  a  day.  Under  this  belief^ 
I  told  the  general  that  we  designed  proceeding  to  6ua- 


• 


timak,  and  that  k  would  add  to  our  security  to  have  his 
psflipott.  It  was  the  getieii|i?»  first  canqiaign.  He  was 
then  oaly  a  few  days  m  semse,  having  set  off  in  a  hiur- 
ly  to  get  possession  of  this  town,  and  ent  off  Morazaa's 
retreat.  He  was  flattered  by  the  request,  and  said  that 
Iwpsnport  woidd  be  indispensable.  His  aid  and  sec- 
ratary  had  been  cleik  in  an  apothecary's  shop  in  Qnati* 
Bttk)  and  therefore  understood  the  respect  due  to  a 
ffiiiiistro,  and  said  that  he  would  make  it  out  himself. 
I  was  all  eagerness  to  get  possession  of  this  passport* 
Tke  captain,  in  courtesy,  said  we  were  in  no  hurry*  I 
difliiussed  courtesy,  and  said  that  we  were  in  a  hurry ; 
tkat  we  must  set  out  immediately  after  breakfast.  I 
was  afraid  of  pos^)onements,  delays,  and  accidents, 
aod  in  qpite  af  impediments  and  inconveniences,  I  per* 
Med  till  I  got  the  secretary  down  at  the  table,  who, 
withoatany  trouble,  and  by  a  mere  flourish  of  the  pen, 
made  me  ^^ministro  plenipotentiario."  The  captain's 
Mme  was  inserted  in  the  passport,  General  Figoroa 
iigned  it,  and  I  put  it  in  my  pocket,  after  which  I 
breathed  more  freely. 

We  returned  to  the  house,  and  in  a  few  minutes  the 
general,  his  secretary,  and  two  mulatto  officers  came 
over  to  breakfast.  Il^,was  very  considerate  in  them  that 
^y  did  not  bring  more.  Our  guests  cared  more  for 
Vttmtity  than  quality,  and  this  was  the  particular  in 
which  we  were  most  deficient.  We  had  plenty  of  choc« 
<4ate,  a  stock  of  bread  for  the  road,  and  some  eggs  that 

* 

were  found  in  .the  house.  We  put  on  the  table  all  that 
we  had,  and  gaVe  the  general  the  seat  of  honour  at  the 
'  head.  One  of  the  officers  preferred  sitting  away  on  a 
bench,  and  eating  his  eggs  with  bis  fingers.  It  is  un- 
pleasant for  a  host  to  be  obliged  to  mark  the  quantity 
tkat  his  guests  eat,  but  I  must  say  I  was  agreeably  dis« 


80  INCIDSITTS     OF     TRATEL. 

appointed.  If  I  had  been  breakfasting  ¥rith  tliem 
Btead  of  vice  versa,  I  eoidd  have  astonished  them  if 
nmch  as  their  Toracions  ancestors  did  the  Indiaaii 
The  brei^fast  was  a  neat  fit ;  there  was  none  over,  aa# 
I  believe  nothing  short. 

There  was  but  one  unpleasant  circumstance  attendk 
ant  upon  it,  viz..  General  Figoroa  requested  us  to  wmit 
an  hour,  until  he  could  prepare  despatches  to  Carrera^ 
advising  him  of  his  occupation  of  Aguachapa.  I 
extremely  anxious  to  get  away  while  the  game 
good.  Of  Qeneral  Figoroa  and  his  secretary  we  thougU 
favourably ;  but  we  saw  that  he  had  no  control  over  fail 
m,en,  and  as  long  as  we  were  in  the  town  we  should  be 
subject  to  their  visits,  inquiries,  and  importunities,  aiid 
some  difficulties  might  arise.  At  the  same  time,  4»^ 
spatches  to  Carrera  would  be  a  great  security  on  the 
road.  Don  Saturnino  undertook  to  set  off  with  the 
luggage,  and  we,  glad  of  the  opportunity  of  trovellnig 
without  any  encumbrance,  charged  him  to  push  on  m 
fast  as  he  could,  not  to  stop  for  us,  and  we  would  over* 
take  him. 

In  about  an  hour  we  walked  over  to  the  plaza  for  the 
despatches,  but  unluckily  found  ourselves  in  a  new  scene 
of  confusion.  Figoroa  was  already  in  the  saddle,  the 
lancers  were  mounting  in  haste,  and  all  nmning  to 
arms.  A  scout  had  brought  in  word  that  Colonel  An* 
goula,  with  the  soldiers  of  the  town,  was  hovering  on 
the  skirt  of  the  mountain,  and  our  friends  were  hurrying 
to  attack  them.  In  a  moment  the  lancers  were  off  on  a 
gallop,  and  the  ragged  infantry  snatched  up  their  guni 
and  ran  after  them,  keeping  up  with  the  horses.  The 
letter  to  Carrera  was  partly  written,  and  the  aiddecamp 
asked  us  to  wait,  telling  us  that  the  aflair  would  soon  be 
over.     He  was  left  in  command  of  about  seventy  or 


*.' 


^«r* 


Mr 


^% 


eighty  men,  and  we  sat  down  with  him  under  the  coi^ 

Bidor.of  the  quartei.    He  wip  several  years  younger 

ihwSigoroa,  xnore  intelligt^  uid  «.emed  v«ry  ami*. 

bie.  exeept  xm  political  matters^  and  there  he  was  savage 

agaioBt  the  Morazan  party.     He  was  gentlemanly  in  his 

mtimers,  but  his  coat  was  out  at  the  elbows,  and  his 

pantaloons  were  torn.     He  said  he  had  a  new  frock- 

eoat,  for  which  he  had  paid  sixteen  dollars,  ba#  which 

did  not  fit  him^and  he  wished  to  sell  it*    I  afterward 

ipoke  of  him  to  one  of  Morazan's  officers,  whom  I 

iimild  beheve  implicitly  except  in  regard  to  political 

tpponents,  who  told  me  that  this  same  secretary  stole 

a  pair  of  pantaloons  from  him,  and  he  had  no  doubt 

tbe  coat  was  stolen  from  somebody  else. 

Sher0Kwas  no-  order  or  discipline  among  the  men  ; 
tbe  soldiers  lay  about  the  quartel,  joined  in  the  conver* 
ntjon^vr  strolled  through  the  town,  as  they  pleased. 
The  inhabkanta  had  fortunately  carried  away  every- 
tidng  portable ;  two  or  three  times  a  foraging  party  re- 
tamed  with  a  horse  or  mule,  and  once  they  were  all 
loused  by  an  alarm  that  Angoula  was  returning  upon 
the  town  in  another  direction.     Immediately  all  snatch- 
ed «p  their  arms,  and  at  least  one  half,  withoutr^  mo- 
ment's warning,  took,  to  their  heels.    We  had  a  fair 
diance  of  having  the  town  again  upon  our  hands,  but 
the  alarm  proved  groundless:     We  could  not,  however, 
but  feel  uncomfbrtabte  at  the  facility  with  which  our 
friends  abandoned  us,  and  the  risk  we  ran  of  being 
identified  Withjlbem.    There  were  three  brothers,  the 
only  lanoers  iSo  did  not  go  out  with  Figoroa,  white 
men,  young  and  athletic,  the  best  dressed  and  best 
armed  m  the  company ;  swaggering  in  their  manner, 
and  disposed  to  cultivate  an  acquaintance  with  us ;  they 
Vol.  n.— L 


■^  •-• 


88  IKCIDEir.98    OF    T&AVSL. 

told  UB  that  they  purposed  going  to  Gaatimala ;  but  1 
shrank  from  iheia  instinetively,  eladed  their  qoeatioMi 
as  to  when  we  intended  *'to  set  out,  and  I  afterwod 
heard  that  they  were  natives  of  the  town,  and  had  besft 
compelled  to  leave  it  on  account  of  their  notorious 
characters  as  assassins.  One  of  them,  as  we  thougfaly 
in  a  mere  spirit  of  bravado,  provoked  a  quarrel  willi 
the  aiddecamp,  strutted  before  the  quartel,  and  in  Ilia 
hearing  of  all  said  that  they  were  under  no  man's  oiw 
ders ;  they  only  joined  General  Figoroa  to  please  thens* 
selves,  and  would  do  as  they  thought  proper.  In  the 
mean  time,  a  few  of  the  townsmen  who  had  nothing  to 
lose,  among  them  an  alguazil,  finding  there  was  ne 
massacring,  had  returned  or  emerged  from  their  hi- 
ding-places, and  we  procured  a  guide  to  be  ready  the 
moment  General  Figoroa  should  return,  went  back  to 
the  house,  and  to  our  surprise  foimd  the  widow  PadiUa 
there.  She  had  been  secreted  somewhere  in  the  neig^ 
bourhood,  and  had  heard,  by  means  of  an  old  womaiiF 
servant,  of  the  general's  breakfasting  with  us,  and  our 
intimacy  with  him.  We  inquired  for  her  daughters' 
safety,  but  not  where  they  were,  for  we  had  already 
found  that  we  could  answer  inquiries  better  when  we 
knew  nothing. 

We  waited  till  four  o'clock,  and  hearing  nothing  of 
General  Figoroa,  made  up  our  minds  that  we  should 
not  get  off  till  evening.  We  therefore  strolled  up  to 
the  extreme  end  of  the  street,  where  Figoroa  had  en* 
tered,  and  where  stood  the  ruins  of  an  old  church.  We 
sat  on  the  foundation  walls  and  looked  through  the  long 
and  desolate  street  to  the  plaza,  where  were  a  few 
stacks  of  muskets  and  some  soldiers.  All  around  were 
mountains,  and  among  them  rose  the  beautiful  and  ver- 
dant Volcano   of  Chingo.      While  sitting  there  two 


■«■ 


AN    ATTACK.  83 

Women  ran  past,  and  telling  w  that  the  soldiers  were 
n^umng  in  that  direction,  hid  themselves  among  the 
ntitiB.    We  turned  down  a  road  and  were  intercepted 
oit  a  little  eminence,  where  we  were  obliged  to  stop  and 
look  down  upon  them  as  they  passed.     We  saw  that 
they  were  irritated  by  an  unsuccessful  day's  work,  and 
that  they  had  found  agua  ardiente,  for  many  of  Aem 
were  drunk.     A  drummer  on  horseback,  and  so  tipsy 
that  he  could  lupEdly  sit,  stopped  the  line  to  glorify  Gen- 
eral Carrera.      Very  soon  they  commenced   the   old 
UHichstone,  "  Viva  Carrera  !"  and  one  fellow,  with  the 
strap  of  his  knapsack  across  his  naked  shoulders,  again 
stopped  the  whole  line,  and  turning  round  with  a  fero- 
ckms  expression,  said,  "  You  are  counting  us,  are  you?" 
We  disappeared,  and  by  another  street  got  back  to 
the  house.     We  waited  a  moment,  and,  determined  to 
get  out  of  the  town  and  sleep  at  the  first  hacienda  on 
tbe  road,  left  the  house  to  go  again  to  General  Fi- 
goroa  for   his  despatches;   but  before  reaching  it  we 
0aw  new  confusion  in  the  plaza,  a  general  remounting 
and  rushing  to  arms.     As  soon  as  General  Figoroa 
saw  us,  he  spurred  his  horse  down  the  street  to  meet 
us,  and  told  us,  in  great  haste,  that  General  M^tazan 
was  approaching  and  almost  upon  the  town.     He  had 
that  moment  received  the  news,  and  was  going  out  to 
attack  him.     He  had  no  time  to  sign  the  despatches, 
and  while  he  was  speaking  the  lancers  galloped  pastt 
He  shook  hands,  bade  us  good-by,  hasta  Iftego  (until 
presently),  asked  us  to  call  upon  Carrera  in  case  we 
did  not  see  hinC'^again,  and  dashing  down  the  line,  put 
himself  at  the  head  of  the  lancers.     The  foot-soldiers 
followed  in  single  file  on  a  run,  carrying  their  arms  as 
was  most  convenient.     In  the  hurry  and  excitement  we 
forgot  ourselves  till  we  heard  some  flattering  epithet» 


M  iVfCIDENTS    or    TRAVEL. 

and  saw  two  fellows  shaking  their  muskets  at  us  withlbt 
expression  of  fiends  ;  but,  hurried  on  by  those  V^fi^ 
they  cried  out  ferociously,  ^'Estos  picaros  otro  veo/' 
*^  Those  rascals  again."     The  last  of  the  line  bad  ha^rd]^ 
disappeared  before  we  heard  a  volley  of  musketry,  aiid 
in  a  moment  fifty  or  sixty  men  left  in  the  plaza  snatch* 
ed  vp  their  arms  and  ran  down  a  street  opening  fxon 
the  plaza.     Very  soon  a  horse  without  a  rider  camo 
clattering  down  the  street  at  full  spofd ;  three  othaim 
followed,  and  in  five  minutes  we  saw  thirty  or  for^ 
horsemen,  with  our  firiend  Figoroa  at  their  head,  dash 
across  the  street,  all  running  for  their  lives ;  but  in  % 
few  moments  they  rallied  and  returned.     We  walkad 
toward  the  church,  to  ascend  the  steeple,  when  a  shaip 
volley  of  musketry  rolled  up  the  street  on  that  side,  and 
before  we  got  back  into  the  house  there  was  firing 
along  the  whole  length  of  the  street.     We  knew  that 
a  chance  shot  might  kill  a  non-combatant,  and   ••• 
cured  the  doors  and  windows ;  but  finally,  as  the  firing 
was  sharp,  and  the  balls  went  beyond  us  and  struck 
the  houses  on  the  opposite  side,  with  an  old  servant- 
woman  (what  had  become  of  the  widow  I  do  not  know), 
we  retired  into  a  small  room  on  the  courtyard,  with  de- 
lightful walls,  and  a  door  three  inches  thick  and  bullet- 
proof, shutting  which,  and  in  utter  darkness,  we  listened 
valiantly.     Here  we  considered  ourselves  out  of  harm's 
way,  but  we  had  serious  apprehensions  for  the  result. 
The  spirit^n  both  sides  was  to  kill ;  giving  quarter  was 
not  thought  of.     Morazan's  party  was  probably  small, 
but  they  would  not  be  taken  without  a  desperate  fight ; 
and  from  the  sharpness  of  the  firing  and  the  time  oc- 
cupied, there  was  probably  a  sanguinary  affair.     Our 
quondam  friends,  roused  by  bloodshed,  wounds,  and 
loss  of  companions,  without  any  one  to  ontrol  thenOf 


Ki 


APPIARAjrCB     OF     MOAAV>N.  H 

iranLcl  be  very  likely  to  oonneot  "  thaw  raaoak"  with 

te  ftrrivBl  of  Morazan.     I  will  not  say  that  we  wished 

dMfj  might  all  be  killed,  but  we  did  wish  that  their  bad 

ttwd  might  be  let  out,  and  that  was  almost  the  same 

thing.    In  fact,  I  did  most  earnestly  hope  never  to  see 

their  faces  again.     I  preferred  being  taken  by  amy  ro- 

ng  bind  in  the  country  rather  than  by  them,  and  nev- 

*  fek  more  relieved  than  when  we  heard  the  sound  of 

•  bogle:  It  itm  the  Morazan  blast  of  victory ;  and, 
Asigh  sounding  fiercely  the  well-known  notes  of  '^  de- 
golkr,  degoUar,"  '^  cutthroat,  cutthroat,"  it  was  music 
to  our  ears.  Very  soon  we  heard  the  tramp  of  cavalry, 
mi  leaving  our  hiding-place,  returned  to  the  sale,  wad 
hmd  a  cry  of  '<  Viva  la  Federaoion !"     This  was  a 

^  oktmng  saaads  It  was  now  dark.  We  opened  the 
ibor  an  inch  or  two,  but  a  lancer  riding  by  struck  it 
ipiiiwith  his  lance,  and  asked  for  water.  We  gave 
Um  a  large  calabash,  which  another  took  from  his 
kiads.  We  threw  open  the  door,  and  kept  two  Ivge 
tiikbashes  on  the  sill ;  and  the  soldiers,  as  they  passed, 
took  a  hasty  draught.  Asking  a  question  of  each,  we 
learned  that  it  was  General  Morazan  himself,  with  the 
Mvvivers  of  his  expedition  against  Ooatimabu  ■  Our 
hmBe  was  well  known ;  many  of  the  officers  inquired 
tot  the  family,  and  an  aiddecamp  gave  notice  to  the  ser- 
^^t-woman  that  Morazan  himself  intended  stopping 
tbeie.  The  soldiers  marched  into  the  plaza,  stacked 
Aeir  arms,  and  shouted  "Viva  Morazan*"  In  the 
woming  the  shout  was  "  Viva  Carrera !"  None  cried 
'^VivalaPatria!" 

There  was  no  end  to  our  troubles.  In  the  morning 
^  surrendered  to  one  party,  and  in  the  evening  were 
«iptored  out  of  their  hands  by  another ;  {nrobably  be* 
five  daylight  Carrera  would  be  upon  us.     There  was 

8 


f«  »' 


80  llfOIDBNTS    OF    TKAVBIf 

o&ly  one  comfort :  the  fellows  who  had  broken  our 
rtie  night  before,  and  scared  the  inhabitants  from  thdt 
h<Mne0,  were  now  looking  out  for  lodgings  in  the  mouii|« 
ains  themselves.  I  felt  sorry  for  Figaroa  and  his  «i4| 
and,  on  abstract  prineiptes,  for  the  killed.  As  for  tlii 
rest,  I  eared  but  little  what  became  of  them. 

In  a  few  moments  a  party  of  officers  came  dowa  it 
our  house.  For  six  days  they  had  been  in  oonstaal 
flight  through  an  enemy's  country,  changing  their  dineo^ 
tion  to  aToid  pursuit,  and  only  stopping  to  rest  tbair 
horses.  Entering  under  the  excitement  of  a  successfiil 
skirmish,  they  struck  me  as  the  finest  set  of  men  I  bad 
seen  in  the  country.  Figoroa  had  come  upon  them-a» 
suddenly,  that  General  Morazan,  who  rode  at  the  hmd 
of  his  men,  had  two  bullets  pass  by  his  head  before  be 
oould  draw  his  pistol,  and  he  had  a  narrower  eseapa 
than  in  the  whole  of  his  bloody  battle  in  Gruatimaia. 
Colonel  Cabanas,  a  small,  quiet,  gentlemanly  man,  ikm 
commander  of  the  troops  massacred  in  HtTndnm% 
struck  the  first  blow,  broke  his  sword  over  a  lancer,  aiidy 
wresting  the  lance  out  of  its  owner's  hands,  ran  it 
through  his  body,  but  was  wounded  himself  in  the  hand* 
A  tall,  gay,  rattling  3roung  man,  who  was  wiping  warm 
blood  from  off  his  sword,  and  drying  it  on  his  pockol* 
handkerchief,  mourned  that  he  had  failed  in  cutting  off 
their  retreat ;  and  a  quiet  middle-aged  man,  wiping  Us 
forehead,  drawled  out,  that  if  their  horses  had  not  been 
so  tired  they  would  have  killed  every  man.  Evefe 
they  talked  only  of  killing ;  taking  prisoners  was  nev- 
er thought  of.  The  verb  matar,  to  kill,  with  its  in- 
flexions, was  so  continually  ringing  in  my  ears  that  it 
made  me  nervous.  In  a  few  minutes  the  widow  Padil> 
la,  who,  I  am  inclined  to  believe,  was  secreted  some* 
where  in  the  neighbourhood,  knowing  of  General  Mors^ 


«Ib'9    approMsh,  rafthed  in,  crying  wildly  in  her  sons. 
AJl  flijaswered  that  the  eldest  was  with  them ;  all  knew 
lier,  fluid  one  after  another  put  his  right  arm  respect- 
fiAiy    over  her  shoulder  and  embraced   her;   but  the 
youAg  man  who  was  wiping  his  sword  drove  it  into 
its  Bcabbard,  and,  catching  her  up  in  his  arms,  lifted 
her  off  the  floor  and  whirled  her  about  the  room.     The 
poor  old  lady,  half  laughing  and  half  crying,  told  him  he 
W88  as  bad  as  jiTer,  and  continued  asking  for  her  sons. 
At  this  moment  a  man  about  forty,  whom  I  had  noticed 
before  as  the  only  one  without  arms,  with  a  long  beard, 
pale  and  haggard,  entered  from  the  courtyard.     The 
old  lady  screamed,  rushed  toward  him,  and  fell  on  his 
leok,  and  for  some  moments  rested  her  head  upon  his 
fliMnilder.     This  was  the  one»  who  had  been  imprisoned 
by  Carrera.     General  Morazan  had  forced  his  way  into 
the  plaza,  broken  open  the  prisons,  and  liberated  the 
ittnates ;  and  when  he  was  driven  out  this  son  made 
Ui  escape.     But  where  was  her  younger  and  dearer        f 
•OQ  ?    The  young  man  answered  that  he  had  escaped 
tad  was  safe.     The  old  lady  looked  at  him  with  dis- 
Irast,  and,  catling  him  by  his  Christian  name,  told  him 
he  was  deceiving  her ;  but  he  persisted  and  swore  that 
he  had  escaped ;  he  himself  had  given  him  a  fresh  horse ; 
he  was  seen  outside  the  barrier,  was  probably  conceal- 
ed somewhere,  and  would  soon  make  his  appearance. 
1%e  other  officers  had  no  positive  knowledge.     One 
hed  seen  him  at  such  a  time,  and  another  at  such  a  time 
during  the  battle ;  and  all  agreed  that  the  young  man 
ought  to  know  best,  for  their  posts  were  near  each  other ; 
tiid  he,  young,  ardent,  and  reckless,  the  dearest  friend 
of  her  son,  and  loving  her  as  a  mother,  told  me  after- 
ward that  she  should  have  one  night's  comfort,  and 
that  she  would  know  the  truth  soon  enough ;  but  the 


."■ 


u    *"■*■ 


INCIDENTS    or    TEIVEL. 

brother,  narrowly  escaped  from  death  himself,  and 
looked  as  if  smiles  had  been  forever  driven  from  his 
fiace,  told  me  he  had  no  doubt  his  mother's  darling  was 
killed.* 

During  these  scenes  the  captain  and  I  were  not  an* 
noticed.  The  captain  found  among  the  officers  several 
whom  he  had  become  acquainted  with  at  the  port,  and 
he  learned  that  others  had  made  their  last  campaign. 
In  the  first  excitement  of  meeting  themi  he  determined 
to  turn  back  and  follow  their  broken  fortunes;  but, 
luckily  for  me,  those  trunks  had  gone  on.  He  felt  that 
he  had  a  narrow  escape.  Among  those  who  had  aof 
companied  General  Morazan  were  the  former  secie* 
tary  of  state  and  war,  and  all  the  principal  officer% 
civil  and  military,  of  the  shattered  general  government. 
They  had  heard  of  my  arrival  in  the  country.  I  bad 
been  expected  at  San  Salvador,  was  known  to  them  all 
by  reputation,  and  very  soon  personally;  particularly 
I  became  acquainted  with  Colonel  Saravia,  a  young 
man  about  twenty-eight,  handsome,  brave,  and  accom- 
plished in  mind  and  manners,  with  an  enthusiastic  at« 
tachment  for  General  Morazan,  from  whom,  in  refer* 
ring  to  one  affair  in  the  attack  on  Guatimala,  with  tears 
almost  starting  from  his  eyes,  he  said.  Providence  seem* 
ed  to  turn  the  bullets  away.  I  had  often  heard  of  this 
gentleman  in  Guatimala,  and  his  case  shows  the  unhap- 
py rending  of  private  and  social  ties  produced  by  these 
civil  wars.  His  father  was  banished  by  the  Liberal 
party  eight  years  before,  and  was  then  a  general  in  the 
Carlist  service  in  Spain.  His  mother  and  three  sisters 
lived  in  Guatimala,  and  I  had  visited  at  their  house 
perhaps  oftener  than  at  any  other  in  that  city.  They 
lived  near  the  plaza,  and  while  Morazan  had  possession 
of  it,  the  colonel  had  run  home  to  see  them ;  and  in  the 

•  I  Ittve  kMlj  lavned  Uiat  be  escaped*  tnd  ii  now  nfe  with  his  moUMr    to 
AfoadNfi. 


VENTRAL     HORAZ  AN.  6f 

nudst  of  a  distracted  meeting,  rendered  more  poignant 
by  the  circumstance  of  his  being  joined  in  an  attack 
upon  his  native  city,  he  was  called  away  to  go  into  ac- 
tion ;  his  horse  was  shot  under  him,  he  was  wounded, 
and  escaped  with  the  wreck  of  the  army.  His  mother 
and  sisters  knew  nothing  of  his  fate.  He  said,  what  I 
WM  sure  was  but  too  true,  that  they  would  have  dread- 
fol  apprehensions  about  him,  and  begged  me,  imme- 
diately on  my  arrival  at  Guatimala,  to  visit  them  and 
ii^rm  them  of  his  safety. 

In  the  mean  time,  General  Morazan,  apprehensive  of 
t  gorprise  from  Carrera  during  the  night,  sent  word  thai 
he  should  sleep  in  the  plaza ;  and  escorted  by  Colonel 
Siravia,  I  went  to  pay  my  respects  to  him.     From  the 
time  of  his  entry  I  felt  perfectly  secure,  and  never  had 
t  moment  of  apprehension  from  unruly  soldiers.     For 
the  first  time  I  saw  something  like  discipline.     A  sen- 
tinel was  pacing  the  street  leading  from  the  plaza,  to 
prevent  the  soldiers  straggling  into  the  town ;  but  the 
poor  fellows  seemed  to  have  no  disposition  for  strag* 
gling.     The  town  was  stripped  of  everything;  even  the 
pwr  horses  had  no  food.     Some  were  gathered  at  the 
window  of  the  cabildo,  each  in  his  turn  holding  up  his 
hit  for  a  portion  of  hard  corn  bread ;  some  were  sitting 
otound  fires  eating  this  miserable  fare ;  but  most  were 
stretched  on  the  ground,  already  asleep.     It  was  the 
iL^frst  night  they  had  lain  down  except  in  an  enemy's 
"  owntry. 

General  Morazan,  with  several  officers,  was  standing 
ia  the  corridor  of  the  cabildo ;  a  large  fire  was  burning 
before  the  door,  and  a  table  stood  against  the  wall, 
with  a  candle  and  chocolate-cups  upon  it  He  was 
about  forty-five  years  old,  five  feet  ten  inches  high, 
thin,  with  a  black  mustache  and  week's  beardi  and 
VouIL— .M 


M  INCIDEIfTS    OF    TRAVBL. 

wore  a  military  frock-coat,  buttoned  up  to  the  throat, 
and  sword.  His  hat  was  off,  and  the  expression  of  his 
face  mild  and  intelligent.  Though  still  young,  for  ten 
years  he  had  been  the  first  man  in  the  country,  and 
eight  president  of  the  Republic.  He  had  risen  and  had 
sustained  himself  by  military  skill  and  personal  bra^ 
very ;  always  led  his  forces  himself ;  had  been  in  innu- 
merable battles,  and  often  wounded,  but  never  beaten. 
A  year  before,  the  people  of  Guatimala,  of  both  par- 
ties, had  implored  him  to  come  to  their  relief,  as  th<» 
only  man  who  could  save  them  from  Carrera  and  de- 
struction. At  that  moment  he  added  another  to  the 
countless  instances  of  the  fickleness  of  popular  favour. 
After  the  expiration  of  his  term  he  had  been  elected 
chief  of  the  State  of  San  Salvador,  which  office  he  had 
resigned,  and  then  acted  as  commander-in-chief  under 
the  Federal  Government.  Denounced  personally,  and 
the  Federation  under  which  he  served  disavowed,  he 
had  marched  against  Guatimala  with  fourteen  hundred 
men,  and  forced  his  way  into  the  plaza ;  forty  of  his 
oldest  officers  and  his  eldest  son  were  shot  down  by  his 
side  ;  and  cutting  his  way  through  masses  of  human 
flesh,  with  about  four  hundred  and  fifty  men  then  in  the 
plaza,  made  his  escape.  I  was  presented  to  him  by 
Colonel  Saravia.  From  the  best  information  I  could 
acquire,  and  from  the  enthusiasm  with  which  I  had 
heard  him  spoken  of  by  his  officers,  and,  in  fact,  by  .j^ 
every  one  else  in  his  own  state,  I  had  conceived  al-  -tJ 
most  a  feeling  of  admiration  for  General  Morazan, 
and  my  interest  in  him  was  increased  by  his  misfor- 
tunes. I  was  really  at  a  loss  how  to  address  him ;  and 
while  my  mind  was  full  of  his  ill-fated  expedition,  his 
first  question  was  if  his  family  had  arrived  in  Costa 
Bicai  or  if  I  had  heard  anything  of  them.     I  did  not 


w 


PXAN8    DI8  AEKAIf  OBB.  M 

tell  him,  what  I  then  thought,  that  his  calamities  would 
Mlow  all  who  were  connected  with  him,  and  probably 
that  his  wife  and  daughters  would  not  be  permitted  an 
asylum  in  that  state  ;  but  it  spoke  volumes  that,  at  such 
a  moment,  with  the  wreck  of  his  followers  before  him, 
and  the  memory  of  his  murdered  companions  fresh  in 
bis  mind,  in  the  overthrow  of  all  his  hopes  and  fortunes, 
his  heart  turned  to  his  domestic  relations.     He  express- 
ed his  sorrow  for  the  condition  in  which  I  saw  hLs  un- 
happy country;  regretted  that  my  visit  was  at  such  a 
most  unfortunate  moment ;  spoke  of  Mr.  De  Witt,  and 
the  relations  of  that  country  with  ours,  and  his  regret 
that  our  treaty  hsui  not  been  renewed,  and  that  it  could 
not  be  done  now ;   but  these  things  were  not  in  my 
mind.     Feeling   that   he   must   have  more   important 
business,  I  remained  but  a  short  time,  and  returned  to 
the  house. 

The  moon  had  risen,  and  I  was  now  extremely  anx- 
ious to  set  out,  but  our  plans  were  entirely  deranged. 
The  guide  whom  we  had  engaged  to  conduct  us  to  the 
&io  Paz  was  missing,  and  no  other  could  be  found ;  in 
tact,  not  a  man  could  be  induced,  either  by  promises  or 
threats,  to  leave  the  town  that  night  from  fear  of  falling 
in  with  the  routed  troops.  Several  of  the  officers  took 
chocolate  with  us,  and  at  the  head  of  the  table  sat  a 
priest  with  a  sword  by  his  side.  I  had  breakfasted  men 
who  would  have  been  happy  to  cut  their  fliroats,  and 
^ey  were  now  hiding  among  the  mountains  or  riding 
fcr  life.  If  Carrera  came,  my  new  friends  would  be 
•cattered.  They  all  withdrew  early,  to  sleep  under 
•nns  in  the  plaza,  and  we  were  left  with  the  widow 
tnd  her  son.  A  distressing  scene  followed,  of  inquiries 
•nd  forebodings  by  the  widow  for  her  younger  son, 
^hich  the  elder  could  only  get  rid  of  by  pleading  ex- 


/* 


.t 


V     '.  n  I  M  C  I  D  8  N  T  »    O  F    T  B  A  V  X  I». 

oeetire  fatigue,  and  begging  to  be  permitted  to  go  t0 
sleep.  It  was  rather  singular,  but  it  had  not  occumad 
to  us  before  to  inquire  about  the  dead  and  wounded  im 
the  skirmish.  There  were  none  of  the  latter ;  all  who 
fell  were  lanced,  and  the  dead  were  left  on  the  ground* 
He  was  in  the  rear  of  the  Morazan  party ;  the  fire  vmm 
scattering;  but  on  the  line  by  which  he  entered  the  towa 
be  counted  eighteen  bodies. 


f 


r 


▼  isiT  rftoM   QMvmnkh  mobazan.         W 


CHAPTER  VI. 

TmH  AoM  0«iwnl  Morazan.— End  of  bit  CaTML-^Procaring  a  Ouide.— Dapos- 
mre  for  Ou&timala.— Fright  of  the  People.~The  Rio  Paz.— Hacienda  of  Pal 
mjta. — A  foittinate  Eacape. — Hacienda  of  San  Jos£. — An  awkward  Predica- 
neHt-*A  kind  Hoat— Ranebo  of  Hoctilla.— Oratorio  and  Leon.— Rio  de  h» 
Eaclavoe. — ^The  Village. — Approach  to  Guatimala.— Arrival  at  Guatimala. — A 
Sketch  of  the  Wara. — Defeat  of  Morazan. — Scene  of  Massacre. 

In  the  morning,  to  our  surprise,  we  found  several 
skops  open,  and  people  in  the  street,  who  had  been 
concealed  somewhere  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  re- 
turned as   soon  as   they  knew  of    Morazan's    entry. 
The  alcalde   reappeared,  and  our  guide  was   found, 
but  he  would  not  go  with  us,  and  told  the  alcalde 
that  he  might  kill  him  on  the  spot;   that  he  would 
rather  die  there  than  by  the  hands  of  the  Cachurecos. 
While  I   was   taking  chocolate,  General  Morasan 
called  upon  me.     Our  conversation  was  longer  and 
more  general.     I  did  not  ask  him  his  plans  or  pur- 
poses, but  neither  he  nor  his  officers  exhibited  dea- 
poadency.     Once  reference  was  made  to  the   occu- 
pation of  Santa  Anna  by  General  Cascara,  and  with 
a  spirit  that  reminded  me  of  Claver  house  in  "Old  Mor- 
tality," he  said,  "  we  shall  visit  that  gentleman  soon." 
He  spoke  without  malice  or  bitterness  of  the  leaders 
of  the  Central  party,  and  of  Carrera  as  an  ignorant 
and  lawless  Indian,  from  whom  the  party  that  was  now 
using  him  would  one  day  be  glad  to  be  protected. 
He  referred,  with  a  smile,  to  a  charge  current  among 
the  Cachurecos  of  an  effort  made  by  him  to  have  Car- 
rera anassinated,  of  which  a*  great  parade  had  been 
made,  with  details  of  time  and  place,  and  which  was 
generally  believed.     He  had  supposed  the  whole  story 


•  * 


'•■  All* 


M  IMClDBirTf    OF     TRATCU 

a  fabrication;  but  accidentally,  in  retreating  from  Gut- 
timala,  he  found  himself  in  the  very  house  where  the 
attempt  was  said  to  have  been  made ;  and  the  man  of 
the  house  told  him  that  Carrera,  having  offered  outrage 
to  a  member  of  his  family,  he  himself  had  stabbed  him, 
as  was  supposed  mortally ;  and  in  order  to  account  for 
his  wounds,  and  turn  away  inquiries  from  the  cause,  it 
was  fastened  upon  Morazan,  and  so  flew  all  through  the 
country.  One  of  his  officers  accompanied  the  story 
with  details  of  the  outrage ;  and  I  felt  very  sure  that, 
if  Carrera  ever  fell  into  his  hands,  he  would  shoot  hiifi 
on  the  spot. 

With  the  opinion  that  he  entertained  of  Carrera  and 
his  soldiers,  he  of  course  considered  it  unsafe  for  us  to 
go  on  to  Guatimala.  But  I  was  exceedingly  anxious 
to  set  out ;  and  the  flush  of  excitement  over,  as  the  cap- 
tain's trunks  had  gone  on,  he  was  equally  so.  Carrera 
might  arrive  at  any  moment,  in  which  case  we  might 
again  change  owners,  or,  at  all  events,  be  the  witnesses 
of  a  sanguinary  battle,  for  Morazan  would  defend  the 
frontier  town  of  his  own  state  to  the  death. 

I  told  General  Morazan  my  wish  and  purpose,  and 
the  difficulty  of  procuring  a  guide.  He  said  that  an 
escort  of  soldiers  would  expose  us  to  certain  danger ; 
even  a  single  soldier,  without  his  musket  and  cartridge^ 
box  (these  being  the  only  distinguishing  marks  of  a  sol- 
dier), might  be  recognised ;  but  he  would  send  for  the 
alcalde,  and  procure  us  some  trusty  person  from  the 
town.  I  bade  him  farewell  with  an  interest  greater 
than  I  had  felt  for  any  man  in  the  country.  Little 
did  we  then  know  the  calamities  that  were  still  in 
store  for  him  ;  that  very  night  most  of  his  soldiers  de- 
serted, having  been  kept  together  only  by  the  danger 
to  which  they  were  cxi>osed  while  in  an  enemv's  couo- 


BN9    OW    V0mAZAIf*8     CA«MSK.  9t 

iq^.     With  the  reflt  he  marched  to  Zonzoimte,  seised  a 
▼essel  at  the  port,  manning  her  with  his  own  men,  and 
sent  her  to  Libertad,  the  port  of  San  Salvador.     He 
<hefli  marched  to  the  capital,  where  the  people,  who  had 
fofT  jears  idolneed  him  in  power,  tamed  their  backe  upon 
Um  in  misfortune,  and  received  him  with  open  insults 
m  the  streets.     With  many  of  his  officers,  who  were 
too  deeply  compromised  to  remain,  he  embarked  for 
GUli.     Suffering  from  confinement  on  board  a  small 
fessel,  lie  stopped  in  Costa  Rica,  and  asked  perraisflioii 
for  some  of  them  to  land^     He  did  not  ask  it  for  him* 
self,  for  he  knew  it  would  be  refused.     Leaving  some 
tt  them  behind,  he  went  on  to  join  his  family  in  ChilL 
Amid  the  fierceness  of  party  spirit  it  was  impossible  for 
m  stranger  to  form  a  true  estimate  of  the  diaracter  of  a 
pMic  man.     The  great  outcry  against  General  Mora- 
wok  was  hostility  to  the  church  and  forced  loans.     For 
his  hostility  to  the  church  there  is  the  justification  that 
h  is  at  this  day  a  pall  upon  the  spirit  of  free  institations, 
degrading  and  debasing  instead  of  elevating  the  Clffis- 
^  character ;  and  for  forced  loans  constant  wars  may 
friod.    His  worst  enemies  admit  that  he  was  exemplary 
in  his  private  relations,  and,  what  they  consider  no 
nail  praise,  that  he  was  not  sanguinary.     He  is  now 
fallen  and  in  exile,  probably  forever,  under  sentence  of 
death  if  he  returns ;  all  the  truckling  worshippers  of  a 
riling  sun  are  blasting  his  name  and  memory ;  but  I 
▼erily  believe,  and  I  know  I  shall  bring  down  upon  me 
the  indignation  of  the  whole  Central  party  by  the  asser- 
tion, I  verily  believe  they  have  driven  from  their  shores 
the  best  man  in  Central  America. 

The  population  of  the  town  was  devoted  to  General 
Moiazan,  and  an  old  man  brought  to  us  his  son,  a  young 
im  about  twenty-two,  as  a  guide;  but  when  he  learaad 


M  IMCIDMVTB    or    TR^YIU 

that  we  wanted  him  to  go  with  us  all  the  way  to  Rip 
Paz,  he  left  us,  as  he  said,  to  procure  a  horse.  W« 
waited  nearly  an  hour,  if  hen  the  old  man  reappea^^ 
with  a  little  boy  about  ten  years  old,  dressed  in  a  stiair 
tiat  and  shirt,  and  mounted  on  a  bare-backed  horsa. 
The  young  man  had  disappeared  and  could  not  ba 
found ;  in  faot,  he  was  afraid  to  go,  and  it  was  thougbl 
this  little  boy  would  run  less  risk.  I  was  never  muok 
disturbed  by  general  reports  of  robbers  or  aRffassuwii 
but  there  was  palpable  danger  in  meeting  any  of  tba 
coated  troops.  Desperate  by  defeat^  and  assassin-UIsa 
in  disposition;  not  very  amiable  to  us  before;  and 
now,  from  having  seen  us  lounging  about  the  toifn 
at  that  inauspicious  moment,  likely  to  connect  us  with 
the  movements  of  Morasan,  I  believed  that  if  we  ie)! 
in  with  them  we  should  be  murdered.  But,  on  tbe 
other  hand,  they  had  not  let  the  grass  grow  un4fr 
their  feet ;  had  probably  been  flying  all  night,  in  apprc^ 
hension  of  pursuit ;  shunning  the  main  road,  had  per- 
haps crossed  the  Rio  Paz,  and,  once  in  Guatimala, 
had  dispersed  to  their  own  villages ;  besides  which,  the 
rout  had  been  so  total  that  they  were  probably  escaping 
three  or  four  together,  and  would  be  as  likely  to  nm 
from  us  as  we  from  them.  At  all  events,  it  was  better 
to  go  than  wait  till  Carrera  came  upon  the  town. 

With  these  calculations  and  really  uncomfortable 
feelings,  we  bade  farewell  to  some  of  the  officers  who 
were  waiting  to  see  us  off,  and  at  nine  o'clock  set  out. 
Descendmg  from  the  table-land  on  which  the  town  is 
built,  we  entered  an  open  plain,  over  which  we  conid 
see  to  a  great  distance,  and  which  would  furnish,  if  ne- 
cessary, a  good  field  for  the  evolutions  of  our  cav&hry. 
We  passed  the  Lake  of  Aguachapa,  the  beauty  of  whicbt 
under  other  circumstanceS|  would  have  attracted  ouf 


DEPARTURE     I^OR     OVATIMAlA.  tT 

•dmiration ;  and  as  onr  little  guide  seemed  at  fault,  we 
slopped  at  a  hut  to  inquire  the  road.     The  people  were 
afraid  to  answer  any  questions.     Figoroa's  soldiers  and 
Iforasan's  had  passed  by,  but  they  did  not  know  it ; 
tfaey  could  not  tell  whether  any  fugitive  soldiers  had 
passed,  and  only  knew  the  road  to  the  Rio  Paz.     It 
was  easy  to  see  that  they  thought  of  nothing  else ;  but 
they  said  they  were  poor  people,  and  at  work  all  the 
time,  and  did  not  know  what  was  going  on.     In  half 
tti  hour  we  met  three  Indians,  with  loads  of  pottery  on 
their  backs.     The  poor  fellows' pulled  off  their  hats,  and 
trembled  when  we  inquired  if  there  were  any  routed 
aridiers  on  before.     It  occurred  to  us  that  this  inquiry 
would  expose  us  to  the  suspicion  of  being  officers  of 
M orazan  in  pursuit,  and  that,  if  we  met  any  one,  we  had 
batter  ask  no  questions.     Beyond  this  there  were  many 
loads,  all  of  which,  the  boy  said,  led  to  the  Bio  Pas ; 
fant  he  had  never  been  there  before,  and  did  not  know 
tile  right  one.     We  followed  one  which  took  us  into  the 
ivoods,  and  soon  commenced  descending.     The  road 
ms  broken,  stony,  and  very  steep ;  we  descended  rap- 
idly, and  soon  it  was  manifest  no  horses  had  passed  on 
this  road  for  a  long  time  before.     Trees  lay  across  it  so 
W  that  we  dismounted,  and  were  obliged  to  slip  our 
Ugh-peaked  saddles  to  pass  under  them.     It  was  evi- ' 
dcntly  an  old  cattle-path,  now  disused  even  by  cattle. 
Ve  descended  some  distance  farther,  and  I  proposed 
to  return.     My  only  argument  was  that  it  was  safer ; 
^c  knew  we  were  wrong,  and  might  get  down  so  low 
^hat  our  physical  strength  would  not  carry  us  back, 
^e  captain  said  that  I  bad  chosen  this  path  ;  if  we  had 
followed  his  advice,  we  should  have  been  safe,  and  that 
now  it  was  impossible  to  return.     We  had  an  angry 
<li>arrel,  and,  fortunately,  in  consideration  of  my  having 
Vol.  II.— N  9 


f 


M  mcroxwTi  of  trj^tbl. 

led  into  the  difficulty,  I  gaye  way,  and  rery  soon  wm 
were  eheered  by  hearing  below  us  the  rashing  of  Hm 
nvet^  After  a  most  difficult  descent  we  reached  tlm 
bank;  but  here  there  was  no  fording-place,  and  no  poAl 
oa  the  opposite  side. 

The  river  itself  was  beautiful.     The  side  wliioh  wv 
had  descended  was  a  high  and  almost  perpendicidar 
mountain,  and  on  both  sides  trees  spread  their  branches' 
over  the  water.     It  was  called  the  River  of  Peace,  bnt' 
was  now  the  dividing-line  of  deadly  war,  the  boundaxy* 
between  Guatimala  and  San  Salvador.     The  infaaln* 
tbnts  of  the  opposite  side  were  in  an  enemy^s  country^i 
and  the  routed  troops,  both  of  Morazan  and.  Figoroft| 
had  fled  to  it  for  refuge.     Riding  some  distance  up  dM- 
stream^  we  worked  our  way  across,  and  on  the  opposito 
side-  found  a  guacal  or  drinking-shell,  which  had  prob* . 
ably  been  left  there  by  some  flying  soldier.     We  drwrii 
bmxL  it  as  if  it  had  been  intended  for  our  use,  and  left 
it  on  the  bank  for  the  benefit  of  the  next  comer. 

We  were  now  in  the  State  of  Guatimala,  on  tluy 
banks<  of  a  wild  river,  without  any  visible  path,  and  oar 
situation  was  rather  more  precarious  than  before,  fcfr 
here  the  routed  soldiers  would  consider  themselves  safej 
abd  probably  many,  after  a  day  and  night  of  toil  and 
fighting,  would  lie  down  to  rest.  We  were  fortunate 
in  regard  to  a  path,  for,  riding  a  short  distance  through 
the  woods  along  the  bank  of  the  river,  we  struck  ob« 
which  turned  off*  to  the  left,  and  terminated  in  the  camino 
real  leading  from  the  regular  fording-place.  Here  we 
dismissed  our  little  guide,  and  set  out  on  the  main  road. 
The  face  of  the  country  was  entirely  changed,  broken 
and  stony,  and  we  saw  no  one  till  we  reached  the  hft* 
cienda  of  Palmita.  This  too  seemed  desolate.  Wo 
entered  the  yard,  and  did  not  see  a  single  person  tiU . 


ire  poiAied  open  the  ikfortt  the  house.     The  pf  o{tfietdr 
inm  an  oM  gentleman,  opposed  to  Moms»a,  who  sat  in 
the  sala  with  his  wife^s  saddle  ted  bis  4»wn,  end  two 
iHindles  of  bed  and  bedding  packed  ^  on  the  'floor, 
ready  for  a  start.     He  seemed  to  feel  <hat  it  was  too 
late,  and  with  an  air  of  submissioh  answered  oar  ques- 
tions, and  then  asked  us  how  many  men  we  had  with 
T».     It  was  amusing  that,  while  half  frightened  to  death 
ourselves,  we  carried  terror  wherever  we  went.  ^  We 
^relieved  him  by  inquiring  about  Don  Saturnino  and  our 
hggage,  remounted,  and  rode  on.     In  an  hour  we 
reached  the  hacienda  del  Cacao,  where  Don  Saturnino 
was  to  sleep.     Owing  to  the  position  of  the  ground,  we 
came  suddenly  upon  the  front  of  the  house,  and  saw 
under  the  piazza  three  Cachureco  soldiers  eating  tor- 
tillas.    They  saw  us  at  the  same  moment,  snatched  up 
their  muskets,  and  ran ;  but  suddenly  one  stopped  and 
levelled  at  us  a  blunderbuss.     The  barrel  looked  es  big 
as  a  church  door,  and  seemed  to  cover  both  tha  captain 
and  me.     We  were  in  awful  danger  of  being  shot  by 
mistake,  when  one  of  them  rushed  back,  knocked  up 
the  blunderbuss,  and  crying  out  '^  amigos,  los  Ingleses !" 
gave  us  a  chance  to  reach  them.     This  amiable  and 
sensible  young  Cachureco  vagabond  was  one  of  those 
"^0  had  paid  us  a  visit  to  beg  a  breakfast  and  a  medio. 
Probably  there  never  was  a  sixpence  put  out  at  better 
interest.     He  had  seen  us  intimate  with  Figoroa,  and 
taught  by  his  betters  to  believe  that  General  Moraaan 
was  a  cutthroat  and  murderer,  and  not  conceiving  that 
we  could  be  safe  with  him,  considered  us  sharers  of  the 
seme  danger,  and  inquired  how  we  had  escaped.     As 
it  turned  out,  we  were  extremely  happy  to  meet  with 
these ;  another  party  might  have  received  us  very  dif- 
ftrently;  and  they  Relieved  us  in  an  iitaportoiit  point, 


AT.* 


JOO  INCIDKMTft    OV    TAATSL. 

for  they  told  us  that  most  of  the  routed  aoldiers  had 
fled  on  the  Santa  Anna  road.  Don  Satumino  had 
paased  the  night  at  this  hacienda,  and  set  out  .very  eady 
in  the  morning.  .  The  soldiers  returned  to  finish  th«jr 
meal  I  and  giving  their  thanks  in  payment,  set  out  again 
with  us.  They  had  a  good  horse  which  they  had  stolen 
on  the  road,  and  which  they  said  paid  them  very  ^ell 
for  the  expedition,  and  rode  by  turns  bare-backed* 
Passing  El  Cacao  their  appearance  created  a  sensatiooi 
for  they  brought  the  first  intelligence  of  the  rout  of  Fig* 
oroa.  This  was  ominous  news,  for  all  had  considered 
Morazan  completely  crushed  by  his  defeat  at  Guatimala. 
In  his  retreat  he  had  avoided  the  villages,  and  they  did 
not  know  that  he  had  escaped  with  so  strong  a  force. 
We  endeavoured  to  procure  a  guide,  but  not  a  man 
could  be  induced  to  leave  the  village,  and  we  rode  on. 
In  a  short  time  it  begun  to  rain;  the  road  was  very 
stony,  and  we  crossed  a  high,  bleak  volcanic  mountain. 
Late  in  the  afternoon  the  captain  conceived  suspicions 
of  the  soldiers,  and  we  rode  on  very  unceremoniously, 
leaving  them  behind.  About  five  o'clock  we  avoided 
the  road  that  led  to  a  village,  and  taking  el  Camino  de 
los  Partidos,  which  was  very  rough  and  stony,  soon 
came  to  a  place  where  there  were  branches,  and  we 
were  at  a  loss  which  to  take  ;  but  the  course  lay  through 
a  broad  valley  bounded  by  two  ranges  of  mountains. 
We  felt  sure  that  our  road  did  not  cross  either  of  these 
ranges,  and  these  were  our  only  guides.  A  little  before 
dark  we  passed  beyond  the  range  of  mountains,  and  on 
•our  right  saw  a  road  leading  into  the  woods,  and  pres- 
ently heard  the  sound  of  a  bell,  and  saw  through  the 
trees  a  hacienda,  to  arrive  at  which  we  had  to  go  on 
some  distance,  and  then  turn  back  by  a  private  road. 
It  was  situated  in  a  large  clearing,   with    cosioa  and 


kV    AWKWABD    PKXBICAMENT.  KH 

theds,  and  a  large  lugar-mill.     Twenty  or  thirty  work- 
men, principally  Indians,  were  aaiEiembled  to  giye  an 
account  of  their  day's  work,  and  receiye  orders  for  the 
next    Onr  appearance  created  a  great  sensation.    The 
proprietors  of  the  hacienda,  two  brothers,  stood  in  the 
door  while  we  were  talking  with  the  men,  and  we  rode 
ap  and  asked  permission  to  stop  there  for  the  night. 
The  elder  assented,  but  with  an  embarrassment  that 
showed  the  state  of  alarm  and  suspicion  existing  in  the 
country.     The  gentlemen  wore  the  common  hacienda 
dress,  and  the  interior  was  miserably  poor,  but  had  a 
hammock,  and  two  rude  frames  with  matting  over  them 
for  beds.     There  was  a  small  room  adjoining,  in  which 
was  the  wife  of  one  of  them  with  a  child.     The  propri- 
etors were  men  of  education  and  intelligence,  thorough- 
\y  acquainted  with  the  condition  of  the  country,  and  we 
told  them  what  had  happened  at  Aguachapa,  and  that 
we  were  hurrying  on  to  Guatimala.     We  had  supper  at 
t  small  table  placed  between  the  hammock  and  one  of 
tile  beds,  consisting  of  fried  eggs,  frigoles,  and  tortiUas, 
IS  usual  without  knife,  fork,  or  spoon. 

After  supper  our  elder  host  was  called  out,  but  in  a 
few  minutes  returned,  and,  closing  the  door,  told  us  that 
there  was  a  great  excitement  among  the  workmen  on  our 
tccount.  They  did  not  believe  our  story  of  going  to 
Guatimala,  for  a  woman  had  seen  us  come  in  from  the 
Ouatimala  road,  and  they  believed  that  we  were  officers 
of  Morazan  retreating  from  the  attack  on  Ouatimala, 
^d  endeavouring  to  escape  into  San  Salvador.  Here 
^as  a  ground  of  suspicion  we  had  not  anticipated.  The 
gentleman  was  much  agitated ;  he  regretted  that  he  was 
obliged  to  violate  the  laws  of  hospitality,  but  said  we 
knew  the  distracted  state  of  the  country,  and  the  phren- 
*T  of  party  spuril.    He  himself  was  against  Morana 


ri 


102  INCIDINTI    or    T&ATKI.. 

his  men  were  violent  Cachnrecos,  and  at  this  momenl 
capable  of  committing  any  outrage.  He  had  incurred 
great  peril  by  receiving  us  for  a  moment  under  his  roof^ 
and  begged  us,  both  for  our  own  sake  and  his,  to  leave' 
his  house  ;  adding  that,  even  if  we  were  of  those  unfor* 
tunate  men,  our  horses  should  be  brought  up  and  we 
should  go  away  unharmed  ;  more  he  could  not  promise. 
Now  if  we  had  really  been  the  fugitives  he  supposed  ns, 
we  should  no  doubt  have  been  very  thankful  for  his 
kindness;  but  to  be  turned  out  by  mistake  in  a  dark 
uighti  an  unknown  country,  and  without  any  guide,  was 
almost  as  bad  as  coming  at  us  with  a  blunderbuss. 
Fortunately,  he  was  not  a  suspicious  man ;  if  he  had 
been  another  Don  Gregorio  we  should  have  ''  walked 
Spanish ;"  and,  more  fortunately  still,  my  pertinacity 
had  secured  Figoroa's  passport ;  it  was  the  only  thing 
that  could  have  cleared  our  character.  I  showed  it  to 
him,  pointing  to  the  extra  flourish  which  the  secretary 
had  made  of  plenipotcntiario,  and  I  believe  he  was  not 
more  astonished  at  finding  who  had  honoured  him  by 
taking  possession  of  his  house,  than  pleased  that  we 
were  not  Morazan's  ofRcers.  Though  an  intelligent 
man,  he  had  passed  a  retired  life  on  his  hacienda.  He 
liad  heard  of  such  a  thing  as  <<  a  ministro  plenipotcn- 
tiario,*' but  had  never  seen  one.  My  accoutrements  and 
the  eagle  on  my  hat  sustained  the  character,  and  he  call- 
ed in  the  major-domo  and  two  leading  men  on  the  haci- 
enda, read  to  them  the  passport,  and  explained  to  there 
the  character  of  a  ministro  plenipotcntiario,  while  I  sat 
up  on  the  bed  with  my  coat  off  and  hat  on  to  show  the 
eagle,  and  the  captain  suppressed  all  partialities  for 
Morazan,  and  talked  of  my  intimacy  with  Carrera.  The 
people  are  so  suspicious  that,  having  once  formed  an 
idea^  they  do  not  willingly  abandon  it,  and  it  was  iui« 


A    XIKD     H08T.  lOS 

certain  whether  all  this  would  satisfy  them;  but  our 
host  was  warm  in  his  efforts,  the  major-domo  was  flat- 
tered by  being  made  the  medium  of  communicating  with 
die  men,  and  his  influence  was  at  stake  in  satisfying 
them.     It  was  one  of  Talleyrand's  maxims  never  to  do 
to-day  what  you  can  put  off  till  to-morrow.     On  this 
occasion  at  least  of  my  diplomatic  career  I  felt  the  ben- 
efit of  the  old  opposite  rule.     From  the  moment  I  saw 
Figoroa  I  had  an  eye  only  to  getting  bis  passport,  and 
did  not  rest  until  I  had  it  in  my  pocket.    If  we  had  waited 
to  receive  this  with  his  letters,  we  should  now  have  been 
in  a  bad  position.     If  we  escaped  immediate  violencei 
we  should  have  been  taken  to  the  village,  shut  up  in  the 
cabildo,  and  exposed  to  all  the  dangers  of  an  ignorant 
poptdace,  at  that  moment  excited  by  learning  the  suc- 
cess of  Morazan  and  the  defeat  of  Figoroa.     In  setting 
out,  our  idea  was  that,  if  taken  by  the  Cachurecos,  we 
should  be  carried  up  to  Guatimala ;  but  we  found  that 
there  was  no  accountability  to  Guatimala ;  the  people 
were  in  a  state  to  act  entirely  from  impulses,  and  nothing 
could  induce  any  party  of  men  to  set  out  for  Guatimala, 
or  under  any  circumstances  to  go  farther  than  from 
village  to  village.     This  difficulty  over,  the  major-domo 
promised  us  a  guide  before  daylight  for  the  next  village. 
At  three  o'clock  we  were  wakened  by  the  creaking  of 
the  sugar-mill.     We  waited  till  daylight  for  a  guide,  but 
as  none  came  we  bade  farewell  to  our  kind  host,  and 
set  out  alone.     The  name  of  the  hacienda  is  San  Jos6, 
but  in  the  hurry  of  my  movements  I  never  learned  the 
name  of  the  proprietor.     In  the  constant  revolutions  of 
Central  America,  it  may  happen  that  he  will  one  day 
be  flying  for  bis  life ;  in  his  hour  of  need,  may  he  meet 
a  heart  as  noble  as  his  own. 

At  a  distance  of  five  leagues  we  reached  the  rancho 


"k 


104  INCIDENTS    OF    TKATNL. 

of  Iloootilla,  where  Don  Saturmno  and  our  men  bad 
slept.  The  road  lay  in  a  magnificent  ravine,  with  • 
fine  bottom  land  and  noble  mountain  sides.  We  pass* 
ed  through  the  straggling  settlements  of  Oratorio  aad 
Leon,  mostly  single  huts,  where  several  times  we  saw 
women  snatch  up  their  children  and  run  into  the  woods 
at  sight  of  us.  Bury  the  war-knife,  and  this  valley 
would  be  equal  to  the  most  beautiful  in  Switzerland. 
At  twelve  o'clock  we  came  upon  four  posts  with  a 
thatched  roof,  occupied  by  a  scouting-party  of  Cacho» 
reco  soldiers.  We  should  have  been  glad  to  avoid 
them,  but  they  could  not  have  judged  so  from  the  way 
in  which  we  shouted  "  amigos !"  We  inquired  for  Cai- 
rera ;  expected  to  meet  him  on  the  road ;  Figoroa  bad 
told  us  he  was  coming ;  Figoroa  had  entered  Aguaeb»* 
pa ;  and,  taking  special  good  care  not  to  tell  them  thai 
Figoroa  had  been  driven  out,  we  bade  them  good«by 
and  hurried  on. 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  reached  the  Rio  de  los  Escla^ 
vos,  a  wild  and  noble  river,  the  bridge  across  which  ia 
the  greatest  structure  in  Central  America,  a  memorial 
of  the  Spanish  domifiion.  We  crossed  it  and  entered 
the  village,  a  mere  collection  of  huts,  standing  in  a  mag- 
nificent situation  on  the  bank  of  the  river,  looking  up 
to  a  range  of  giant  mountains  on  the  other  side,  covered 
to  the  top  with  noble  pines.  The  miserable  inhabitants 
were  insepsiblc  to  its  beauties,  but  there  were  reasons 
to  make  them  so.  Every  hostile  expedition  between 
Ouatimala  and  San  Salvador  passed  through  their  vil- 
lage. Twice  within  one  week  Morazan's  party  had 
done  so ;  the  inhabitants  carried  off  what  they  could, 
and,  locking  their  doors,  fled  to  the  mountains.  The 
last  time,  Morazan's  army  was  so  straitened  for  provia* 
lona,  and  pressed  by  fear  of  pursuit,  that  huts  were  torn 


ArvmCACH    TO    OVATIMALA.  M6 

down  for  firewood,  and  bidlocks  slain  and  eaten  half 
nwin  the  street,  without  bread  or  tortillas. 

At  tvro  we  set  off  again,  hnd  from  the  Tillage  entered 
t  country  covered  with  lava.  At  ibnr  we  reached  the 
Ittdenda  of  Coral  de  Piedra,  situated  <m  the  crest  <tf^  a 
stony  country,  looking  like  a  castle,  very  large,  with  a 
ehnrch  and  Tillage,  where,  although  it  rained,  we  did 
not  stop,  for  the  whole  Tillage  seemed  to  be  intoxicated. 
Opposite  one  house  we  were  hailed  by  a  Cachureco  of- 
fieer,  so  tipsy  that  he  could  hardly  sit  on  his  horse,  who 
Mae  at  us  and  told  us  how  many  of  Morazan's  men  he 
!uk1  killed.  A  little  before  dark,  riding  through  a  for- 
est, in  the  apprehension  that  we  were  lost,  we  emerged 
loddenly  from  the  woods,  and  saw  towering  before  us 
the  great  volcanoes  of  Agua  and  Fuego,  and  at  the  same 
looment  were  hailed  by  the  joyful  shouts  of  Don  Satur- 
nino  and  our  men.  They  had  encamped  in  a  small  hut 
QQ  the  borders  of  a  large  plain,  and  the  mules  were 
terned  out  to  pasture.  Don  Saturnine  had  been  alarm- 
^  about  us,  but  he  had  followed  our  parting  injunction 
to  go  on,  as,  if  any  accident  had  happened,  he  could  be 
oC  more  service  in  Ouatimala.  They  had  not  met  Mora- 
sqi'b  army,  having  been  at  a  hacienda  off  the  road 
when  it  passed,  and  hurrying  on,  had  not  heard  of  the 
foot  of  Figoroa^ 

The  rancho  contained  a  single  small  room,  barely 
large  enough  for  the  man  and  woman  who  occupied  it 
but  there  was  plenty  of  room  out  of  doors.  After  a 
roQgb  ride  of  more  than  fifty  miles,  vnth  the  most  com- 
fertable  reflection  of  being  but  one  day  from  Guatima^ 
hi,  I  soon  fell  asleep. 

The  next  morning  one  of  the  mules  was  missing,  and 
we  did  not  get  off  till  eight  o'clock.  Toward  evening 
we  deseended  a.  long  hilly  and  entered,  the  plain  of 

Vol.  II. 


f06  IHGIDBNTa    OF    TMAWMh. 


.Gkiatniuda.  It  looked  baantiful,  aad  I  «e¥er  thought  I 
should  be  to  hap^y  to  see  it  again.  I  Juaid  finisheid  ^a 
•  journey  of  tirelve  hundied  miles,  and  the  gold  of  Peru 
4»uid  not  have  tempted  me  to  undertake  it  again.  At 
the  gate  the  first  man  I  saw  was  my  friend  Don  Man- 
4iel  Pavon.  I  couid  but  think,  if  Morazan  had  taken 
the  city,  where  would  be  be  now  ?  Carrera  was  not  in 
the  city  ;  he  had  set  out  in  pursuit  of  Morazan,  but  on 
the  road  received  intelligence  which  induced  hinei^  to 
turn  off  for  Quezaltenango.  I  learned  with  de^  tttpt. 
faction  that  not  one  of  my  acquaintances  was  killad| 
and,  as  I  afterward  found,  not  one  of  them  had  been  in 
the  battle. 

I  gave  Don  Manuel  the  first  intelligence  of  Genenl 
if  orazan.  Not  a  word  had  been  beard  of  him  since  ke 
left  the  Antigua.  Nobody  had  come  t^>  from  that  direc- 
tion ;  the  people  were  still  too  frightened  to  travel,  and 
the  city  had  not  recovered  from  its  spasm  of  terror.  As 
we  advanced  I  met  acquaintances  who  welcomed  me 
back  to  Guatimala.  I  was  considered  as  having  run  the 
gauntlet  for  life,  and  escape  from  dangers  created  a  bond 
between  us.  I  could  hardly  persuade  myself  that  tbe 
people  who  received  me  so  cordially,  and  whom  I  wwb 
really  glad  to  meet  again,  were  the  same  whose  expul- 
sion by  Morazan  I  had  considered  probable.  If  he  kad 
encceeded,  not  one  of  them  would  have  been  there  to 
welcmne  me.  Repeatedly  I  was  obliged  to  stop  an^ 
tell  over  the  affair  of  Aguachapa ;  how  many  nouen 
BCorazan  had ;  what  officers ;  whether  I  spoke  to  hina ; 
how  he  kioked,  and  what  he  said.  I  introduced  tbe 
eaptain  ;  each  had  his  circle  of  listeners ;  and  the  cap- 
lain,  as  a  slight  indemnification  for  his  forced  ^^  Viva 
Gvreras"  on  the  road,  feeling,  on  his  arrival  onoe  meie 
civiKzedaad  weU«dieaaed people,  a  ooespantiva 


r 


■ 


ttemty  for  liberty  of  speeehi  said  that  if  Morasati'i 
kones  had  not  been  ao  tired,  every  man  of  Figoroa'a 
would  have  been  killed.  Unhappily,  I  oould  not  but 
see  that  our  news  would  have  been  more  acceptable  if 
weconld  have  reported  Morazan  completely  prostrated) 
wounded,  or  even  dead.  As  we  advanced  I  could  per- 
oehe  that  the  sides  of  the  houses  were  marked  by  mus- 
let-balls,  and  the  fronts  on  the  plaza  were  fearfully 
scarified.  My  house  was  near  the  plaza,  and  three 
iMiet-balls,  picked  out  of  the  woodwork,  were  saved 
fiir  my  inspection,  as  a  sample  of  the  battle.  In  an 
lunr  after  my  arrival  I  had  seen  nearly  all  my  old 
blends.  Engrossed  by  my  own  troubles,  I  had  not 
imagined  the  full  extent  of  theirs.  I  cannot  describe 
the  satisfaction  with  which  I  found  myself  once  more 
sttKHig  them,  and  for  a  little  while,  at  least,  at  rest.  I 
ttiil  had  anxieties ;  I  had  no  letters  from  home,  and  Bir. 
Cfttherwood  had  not  arrived ;  but  I  had  no  uneaainesa 
>boat  him,  for  he  was  not  in  the  line  of  danger;  and 
when  I  lay  down  I  had  the  comfortable  sensation  that 
there  was  nothing  to  drive  me  forward  the  next  day. 
^captain  took  up  his  abode  with  me.  It  was  an  odd 
ftmlo  to  his  expedition  against  Ouatimala ;  but,  after  all, 
it  was  better  than  remaining  at  the  port. 

Great  changes  had  taken  place  in  Guatimala  since  I 
left,  and  it  may  not  be  amiss  here  to  give  a  brief  ae- 
oount  of  what  had  occurred  in  my  absence.     The  reader 
^  remember  the  treaty  between  Carrera  and  Gnz^ 
Qttm,  the  general  of  the  State  of  Los  Altos,  by  which 
the  former  surrendered  to  the  latter  four  hundred  old 
nmskets.     Since  that  time  Guatimala  had  adopted  Car- 
rera (or  had  been  adopted  by  him,  I  hardly  know 
which),  and,  on  the  ground  that  the  distrust  formerly 
entertained  of  him  no  longer  existed,  demanded  ar  re»* 


108  INCiOlNTS    OF    TRATS£» 

titution  of  the  muskets  to  him.  The  State  of  Los  Allo# 
refused.  This  state  was  at  that  time  the  focus  of  LibeMl 
principles,  and  Quezaltenango,  the  capital,  was  fhe 
asylum  of  Liberab  bsmished  from  Ouatimala.  Appi^ 
hending,  or  pretending  to  apprehend,  an  invasion  fironi 
that  state,  and  using  the  restitution  of  the  four  hundred 
worthless  muskets  as  a  pretext,  Carrera  marched  against 
Quezaltenango  with  one  thousand  men.  The  Indians^ 
believing  that  he  came  to  destroy  the  whites,  assialed' 
him.  Guzman's  troops  deserted  him,  and  Carrera  wl||| 
his  own  hands  took  him  prisoner,  sick  and  encumbdM 
with  a  greatcoat,  in  the  act  of  dashing  his  horse  dowii 
a  deep  ravine  to  escape :  he  sent,  to  Guatimala  Oa^ 
man's  military  coat,  with  the  names  of  Omoa,  TruxiUoSi 
and  other  places  where  Ouzman  had  distinguished  him^ 
self  in  the  service  of  the  republic,  labelled  on  it, 
letter  to  the  government,  stating  that  he  had  sent  the 
as  a  proof  that  he  had  taken  Guzman.  A  genttei 
told  me  that  he  saw  this  coat  on  its  way,  stuck  on  a  pole, 
and  paraded  by  an  insulting  rabble  around  the  plaza  oC 
the  Antigua.  After  the  battle  Carrera  marched  to  thb 
capital,  deposed  the  chief  of  the  state  and  other  oA* 
cers,  garrisoned  it  with  Ids  own  soldiers,  and,  not  undei^ 
standing  the  technical  distinctions  of  state  lines,  de^ 
stroyed  its  existence  as  a  separate  state,  and  annexedll 
to  Guatimala.  or,  rather,  to  his  own  command. 

In  honour  of  his  distinguished  services,  public  notice 
was  given  that  on  Monday  the  seventeenth  he  would 
make  his  triumphal  entry  into  Guatimala,  and  on  that 
day  he  did  enter,  under  arches  erected  across  the  streetS| 
amid  the  firing  of  cannon,  waving  of  flags,  and  music, 
with  General  Guzman,  personally  known  to  all  the  prin* 
cipal  inhabitants,  who  but  a  year  before  hnd  hastenitd 
at  their  piteous  call  to  save  them  from  the  hands  of  thn 


i 


A    SXBTOH    OF    YHB    WAE.  109 

■me  Ourera,  placed  sidewiM  on  a  mule,  with  Us  feet 
tied  under  him,  his  iaoe  ao  bniiaed,  ewcdlen,  and  disfig- 
wed  1^  atonea  and  blows  of  machetes  that  he  could 
wot  be  leoognisad,  and  the  prisoners  tied  together  with 
npes ;  and  the  chief  of  tbe  state,  secretary  of  state,  and 
ssoretary  of  tbe  Constituent  Assembly  rode  by  Carrara's 
■de  in  tiua  disgraoeful  triamph. 

Qeneral  Guzman  was  one  of  those  who^-had  been  lib- 

■ited  firom  prison  by  Gkneral  Morasan.     He  had  es^ 

allied  from  the  plaza  with  the  remnant  of  his  forces, 

)|l»  unable  to  endure  the  fatigues  of  the  journey,  he 

WM  left  behind,  secreted  on  the  road ;  and  General 

Moraan  UM  me  that,  in  consequence  of  the  cruelty  ex-  * 

sttifed  upon  bim,  and  the  horrible  state  of  anxiety  ia 

nUeh  he  was  kept,  reason  had  deserted  its  throne,  and 

\m  oBoe  strong  mind  was  gone. 

From  this  time  the  city  setded  into  a  volcanic  calm, 
fdiering  with  apprehensions  of  an  attack  by  G^eneral 
Ifarszan,  a  rising  of  the  Indians  and  a  war  of  castes, 
nd  startled  by  occasional  rumours  that  Carrera  intend- 
^to  bring  Gusman  and  the  prisoners  out  into  the  plasa 
^  fjticot  them.  On  the  fourteenth  of  March  intelli- 
pnee  was  received  from  Figoroa  that  General  Mor&- 
>ui  had  crossed  the  lUo  Pas  and  was  marching  against 
^Hminiala.  This  swallowed  up  all  other  apprehensions. 
Carrera  was  the  only  man  who  could  protect  the  city. 
Ob  the  fifteenth  he  marched  out  with  nine  hundred  men 
tomrd  Arazola, .  leaving  the  plaza  occupied  by  five 
kmdred  men.  Great  gloom  hung  over  the  city.  The 
Mine  day  Morazan  arrived  at  the  CcMrel  de  Piedra, 
aleven  leagues  from  Ghipttimala.  On  the  sixteenth  the 
soldiers  commenced  erecting  parapets  at  the  corners  of 
Ac  plaza ;  many  Indians  came  in  from  the  villages  to 
lit,  and  Carrera  took  up  his  position  at  the  Aceytsna, 

10 


ItO  INCIDXlTTt    OF    TRATflL. 

a  league  and  a  half  from  the  city.  On  the  seventeeadi 
Carrera  rode  into  the  city,  and  with  the  chief  of  tk# 
state  and  others,  went  around  to  visit  the  fortification 
and  rouse  the  people  to  arms.  At  noon  he  returned  40^ 
the  Aceytuna,  and  at  four  o'clock  intelligence  was  tm* 
ceived  that  Morazan's  army  was  descending  the  Quests 
de  Pinula,  the  last  range  before  reaching  the  plain.-of' 
Guatimala.  The  bells  tolled  the  alarm,  and  great  oon- 
sternation  prevailed  in  the  city.  Morazan's  army  Aegtt 
that  night  on  the  plain.  ..;«^t 

Before  daylight  he  marched  upon  the  city  and  entail* 
ed  the  gate  of  Buena  Vista,  leaving  all  his  cavali|^ 
and  part  of  his  infantry  at  the  Plaza  de  Toroe  and  qb* 
the  heights  of  Calvario,  under  Colonel  Cabanes,  l» 
watch  the  movements  of  Carrera,  and  with  seven  hua^ 
dred  men  occupied  the  Plaza  of  Guadaloupe,  depositiqg; 
his  parque,  equipage,  a  hundred  women  (more  or  leas  <d 
whom  always  accompany  an  expedition  in  that  country)^.- 
and  all  his  train,  in  the  Hospital  of  San  Juan  de  Dios* 
Hence  he  sent  Perez  and  Rivas,  with  four  or  five  hngk>^ 
dred  men,  to  attack  the  plaza.  These  passed  up  a  street 
descending  from  the  centre  of  the  city,  and,  while  cov- 
ered by  the  brow  of  the  hill,  climbed  over  the  yard-wall 
of  the  Church  of  Escuela  de  Cristo,  and  passed  througk 
the  church  into  the  street  opposite  the  mint,  in  the  tmv 
of  one  side  of  the  plaza.  Twenty«eeven  Indians  were 
engaged  in  making  a  redoubt  at  the  door,  and  twenty-aix 
bodies  were  found  on  the  ground,  nine  killed  and  seveanto 
teen  wounded.  When  I  saw  it  the  ground  was  still  red 
with  blood.  Entering  the  mint,  the  invaders  were  re- 
ceived with  a  murderous  fire  along  the  corridor ;  bot^ 
forcing  their  way  through,  they  broke  open  the  front 
portal,  and  rushed  into  the  plaza.  The  plaza  was  oc- 
cupied by  the  five  hundred  men  left  by  Carrera,  and  two 


'^• 


AR»ITAL    OP    MORAZAN.  Ill 

ct  three  bnndfed  Indiaos,  who  fell  baek,  closed  up  near 
tiie  porch  of  the  Cathedral,  and  in  a  few  moments  all 
fled,  leaTing  the  plasai,  with  all  theur  ammunition,  in  the 
possession  of  the  assailants.  Rivera  Paz  and  Don  Luis 
Bartres,  the  chief  and  secretary  of  the  state,  were  in  the 
plasa  at  the  time,  and  but  few  other  white  citizens?  Car- 
rera  did  ac^  want  white  soldiers,  and  would  not  permit 
white  men  to  be  officers.  Many  young  men  had  pre- 
sented themselves  in  the  plasa,  ai^d  were  told  that 
there  were  no  arms. 

In  the  mean  time,  Carrera,  strengthened  by  masses  of 
Indians  from  the  villages  around,  attacked  the  division  *  ^ 
on  the  heights  of  Calvario.  Morazan,  with  the  small 
ferce  left  at  San  Juan  de  Bios,  went  to  the  assistance  of 
Cabanes.  The  battle  lasted  an  hour  and  a  half,  fierce 
and  bloody,  and  fought  hand  to  hand.  Morazan  lost 
some  of  his  best  officers.  Sanches  was  killed  by  Solero 
Carrera,  a  brother  of  the  general.  Carrera  and  Mora- 
zan met,  and  Carrera  says  that  he  cut  Morazan's  sad- 
dle nearly  in  two.  Morazan  was  routed,  pursued  so 
closely  that  he  could  not  take  up  his  equipage,  and  hur- 
ried on  to  the  plaza,  having  lost  three  hundred  mus- 
kets, four  hundred  men  killed,  wounded,  and  prisoners, 
and  all  his  baggage.  At  ten  o'clock  his  whole  force 
was  penned  up  in  the  plaza,  surrounded  by  an  immense 
mass  of  Indian  soldiers,  and  fired  upon  from  all  the  cor- 
ners. Manning  the  parapets  and  stationing  pickets  on 
the  roofs  of  the  houses,  he  kept  up  a  galling  fire  in  return. 

Pent  up  in  this  fearful  position,  Morazan  had  time  to 
'©fleet.  But  a  year  before  he  was  received  with  ringing 
^  bells,  firing  of  cannon,  joyful  acclamations,  and  dep- 
utations of  grateful  citizens,  as  the  only  man  who  could 
••'^e  them  from  Carrera  and  destruction.  Among  the 
*^^^  while  citizens  in  the  plaza  at  the  time  of  the  entry 


■m 


112  INOIDBITTS    or    TKATBIm 

i(A  the  soldiers  was  a  jovng  man,  who  was  tnken  ]ifi»» 
oner  and  brought  before  General  Mofaaan.  The  )att«r 
knew  him  personally,  and  inquired  for  several  of  liia  oM 
partisans  by  name,  asking  whether  they  were  not  com- 
ing to  join  him.  The  young  man  answered  that  they 
were  fiot,  and  Morazan  and  his  officers  seemed  disap 
pointed.  No  doubt  he  had  expected  a  risixigof  citizens 
in  his  favour,  and  again  to  be  hailied  as  a  deliverer  from 
Carrera.  In  San  Salvador  I  had  heard  that  he  had  reo 
ceived  urgent  solicitations  to  come  up;  but,  whatever 
%fid  been  contemplated,  there  was  no  manifestation  of 
^  ^  Wiytaiich  intention ;  on  the  contrary,  the  hoarse  cry  was 
tingihg  in  his  ears,  ^'  Muera  el  tyranno !  Muera  el  Oen^ 
eral  Morazan  !'^  Popular  feeling  had  undergone  aa  en- 
tire revolution,  or  else  it  was  kept  down  by  the  masses 
of  Indians  who  came  in  from  the  villages  around  to  de- 
fend the  city  against  him. 

In  the  mean  time  the  fire  slackened,  and  at  twelve 
o'clock  it  died  away  entirely  ;  but  the  plaza  was  strewed 
with  dead,  dense  masses  choked  up  the  streets,  and  at 
the  corners  of  the  plaza  the  soldiers,  with  gross  ribaldry 
and  jests,  insulted  and  jeered  at  Morazan  and  his  meft. 
The  firing  ceased  only  from  want  of  ammunition.  Car- 
rera's  stock  having  been  left  in  Morazan's  possession. 
Carrera,  in  his  eagerness  to  renew  the  attack,  sat  down 
to  make  cartridges  with  his  own  hands. 

The  house  of  Mr.  Hall,  the  British  vice-consul,  was 
on  one  of  the  sides  of  the  plaza.  Mr.  Chatfield,  the 
consul  general,  was  at  Escuintla,  about  twelve  leagues 
distant,  when  intelligence  was  received  of  Morazan's 
invasion.  He  mounted  his  horse,  rode  up  to  the  cityj 
and  hoisted  the  English  flag  on  Mr.  Hall's  house,  tO 
Morazan's  soldiers  the  most  conspicuous  object  on  the 
plaza.     Carrera  himself  was  hardly  more  obnoxious  ti> 


;  r  vs 


DXPEAT     OF     MORAZAN.  118 

tbem  than  Mr.  Cbatfield.     A  picket  of  soldiers  was  sta- 
tioned on  the  roof  of  the  house,  commanding  the  plaza 
on  the  one  side  and  the  courtyard  on  the  other.    Prel- 
lana,  the  former  minister  of  war,  was  on  the  roof,  and 
oot  into-  tha  Btaff.  with  his  sword,  but  desisted  on  a  re- 
monstrance from  the  courtyurd  that  it  was  the  house  of 
the  vice-BCOBisul.     At  sundown  the  immense  mass  of  In- 
dians who'  now  crowded  the  city  fell  on  their  knees, 
and  set  np  the  Salve  or  hymn  to  the  Virgin.    Orellana 
and  others  of  Morazan's  officers  had  let  themselves 
down  into  the  courtyard,  and  were  at  the  moment  ta^ 
king  chocolate  in  Mr.  Hall's   house.      Mrs.  HaU|  a 
Spanish  lady  of  the  city,  asked  Orellana  why  he  did 
not  fall  on  his  knees ;  and  he  answered,  in  jest,  that  he 
mras  afraid  his  own  soldiers  on  the  roof  would  take  him 
ion  a  Cachureco  and  shoot  him ;  but  it  is  said  that  to 
Morazan  the  noise  of  this  immense  chorus  of  voices 
"vras  appalling,  bringing  home  to  him  a  consciousness 
rf  the  immense  force  assembled  to  crush  him,  and  for 
^  first  time  he  expressed  his  sense  of  the  danger  they 
^ere  in.     The  prayer  was  followed  by  a  tremendous 
Wst  of  "  Viva  la  Religion !  Viva  Carrera !  y  muera  el 
General  Morazan!"  and  the  firing  commenced  more 
diarply  than  before.     It  was  returned  from  the  plaza^ 
ttid  for  several  hours  continuad  without  intermission. 
At  two  o'clock  in  the  morning  Morazan  itiade  a  despe- 
^te  effort  to  cut  his  way  out  of  the  plaza,  but  was  driv- 
en back  behind  the  parapets.     The  plaza  was  strewed 
with  dead.    Forty  of  his  oldest  ofl^rs  and  bis  eldest  son 
were  killed;  and  at  three  o'clock  he  stationed  three 
inndred  men  at  three  comers  of  the  plaza,  directed 
tiiem  to  open  a  brisk  fijre,  threw  all  the  powder  into  tho 
fountain,  and  while   attention  was  directed  to  these 
points,  sallied  by  the  other  and  left  them  to  their  fete.. 
Vol.  n.— P 


114  INCIDBNTS     OF    TftATBL. 

I  State  this  on  the  authority  of  the  Guatimala  officnl 
account  of  the  battle-— of  course  I  heard  nothing  of  it 
at  Aguachapa — and  if  true,  it  is  a  blot  on  Morazaa^ 
character  as  a  soldier  and  as  a  man.  He  escaped  from 
the  city  with  five  hundred  men,  and  strewing  the  road 
with  wounded  and  dead,  at  twelve  o'clock  arrived  at 
the  Antigua.  Here  he  was  urged  to  proclaim  martial 
law,  and  make  another  attack  on  the  city ;  but  he  an* 
swered  no ;  blood  enough  had  been  shed.  He  entered 
the  cabildo,  and,  it  is  said,  wrote  a  letter  to  Carrefa 
xeeommending  the  prisoners  to  mercy ;  and  BanMl 
Ifaheiin,  the  French  consul  general,  related  to  me  aa 
anecdote,  which  does  not,  however,  seem  probable,  that 
he  laid  his  glove  on  the  table,  and  requested  the  aloalda 
to  give  it  to  Carrera  as  a  challenge,  and  explain  ita 
meaning.  From  that  place  he  continued  his  retreat  by 
the  coast  until  I  met  him  at  Aguachapa. 

In  the  mean  time  Carrera's  soldiers  poured  into  tha 
plaaa  with  a  tremendous  feu  de  joie,  and  kept  up  a  tei^ 
lible  firing  in  the  air  till  daylight.  Then  they  conmieOH 
aed  Marching  for  fugitives,  and  a  general  massacre  took 
place.  CSdlonel  Arias,  lying  on  the  ground  with  one  of 
kiB  eyes  oat,  was  bayoneted  to  death.  Perez  was  sboU 
Marescal,  concealed  under  the  Cathedral,  was  dragged 
out  and  shot.  Fadilla,  the  son  of  the  widow  at  Agua* 
ohapa,  foond  ion  the  ground,  while  begging  a  Centraliai 
wh(Hn  he  knew  to  save  him,  was  killed  with  bayoneta. 
The  unhappy  fugitives  were  brought  into  the  plaza  two, 
three,  five,  and  ten  at  a  time.  Carrera  stood  pointing 
with  his  finger  to  this  man  and  that,  and  every  one  thai 
he  mdioated  was  removed  a  few  paces  from  him  and 
•hot.  Major  Jose  Viera,  and  several  of  the  soldiers  on 
the  roof  of  Mr.  HalPs  house,  let  themselves  down  into 
the  courtyard,  and  Carrera  sent  fot  all  who  had  taken 


XAtSACKB.  116 

^iage  there.      Viera  was  taking  chocolate  with  ttie 

fiBJEuily,  and  gave  Mrs.  Hall  a  purse  of  doubloons  and  a 

pistol  to  take  care  of  for  him.     They  were  delivered  up, 

iv'ith  a  recommendation  to  mercy,  particularly  in  behalf 

o£  Yiera  ;  but  a  few  moments  after  Mr.  Skinner  entered 

ibie  house,  and  said  that  he  saw  Viera's  body  in  the 

iplaza.     Mr.  Hall  could  not  believe  it,  and  walked  round 

Ihe  comer,  but  a  few  paces  from  his  own  door,  and  saw 

Urn  lying  on  his  back,  dead.     In  this  scene  of  massacre 

ihe  Padre  Zezena,  a  poor  and  humble  priest,  exposed 

lu8  own  life  to  save  his  fellow-beings.     Throwing  him- 

lelf  on  his  knees  before  Carrera,  he  implored  him  to 

spare  the  unhappy  prisoners,  exclaiming,  they  are  Chric- 

tians  like  ourselves ;  and  by  his  importunities  and  pray- 

oi  induced  Carrera  to  desist  from  murder,  and  send 

^  wretched  captives  ta  prison. 

Carrera  and  his  Indians  had  the  whole  danger  and 
the  whole  glory  of  defending  the  city.  The  citizens, 
^  had  most  at  stake,  took  no  part  in  it.  The  mem- 
1^  of  the  government  most  deeply  compromised  fled 
^  remained  sfafut  up  in  their  houses.  It  would  be  hard 
to  analyze  the  feelings  with  which  they  straggled  out  to 
(pize  iq>on  the  scene  of  horror  in  the  streets  and  in  the 
phza,  and  saw  on  the  ground  the  well-known  faces  and 
BMoigled  bodies  of  the  leaders  of  the  Liberal  party. 
'Rktie  was  one  overpowering  sense  of  escape  from  im- 
Biense  danger,  and  the  feeling  of  the  Central  govern- 
ment burst  out  in  its  official  bulletin :  ^^  Eternal  glory  to 
Ae  invincible  chief  General  Carrera,  and  the  valiant 
Iroops  under  his  command !" 

In  the  morning,  as  at  the  moment  of  our  arrival,  this 
subject  was  uppermost  in  every  one's  mind ;  no  one 
eoold  talk  of  anything  else,  and  each  one  had  some- 
tiling  new  to  communicate.    In  our.  &r8t  walk  through 


116  INCIDBJIT8    OF    TBAVEI.. 

the  Streets  our  attention  was  directed  to  the  localiti6% 

• 

and  everywhere  we  saw  marks  of  the  battle.  VagA* 
bond  soldiers  accosted  us,  begging  medios,  pointiijg 
their  muskets  at  our  heads  to  show  how  they  shot  the 
enemy,  and  boasting  how  many  they  had  killed.  These 
fellows  made  me  feel  uncomfortable,  and  I  was  not 
singular ;  but  if  there  was  a  man  who  had  a  mixture  ef 
uncomfortable  and  comfortable  feelings,  it  was  my  friend 
the  captain.  He  was  for  Morazan  ;  had  left  La  Union 
to  join  bis  expedition,  left  San  Salvador  to  pay  him  a 
visit  at  Guatimala  and  partake  of  the  festivities  of  hit 
triumph,  and  left  Aguachapa  because  his  trunks  ha4 
gone  on  before.  Ever  since  his  arrival  in  the  countrjf 
he  had  been  accustomed  to  hear  Carrera  spoken  of  as  a 
robber  and  assassin,  and  the  noblesse  of  Guatimala  rid- 
iculed, and  all  at  once  he  found  himself  in  a  hornet's 
nest.  He  now  heard  Morazan  denounced  as  a  tyranti 
his  officers  as  a  set  of  cutthroats,  banded  together  to 
sassinate  personal  enemies,  rob  churches,  and 
priests ;  they  had  met  the  fate  they  deserved,  and  the 
universal  sentiment  was,  so  perish  the  enemies  of  Gua- 
timala. The  captain  had  received  a  timely  caution. 
His  story  that  Morazan  would  have  killed  every  man  of 
Figoroa's  if  the  horses  had  not  beei<  so  tired,  had  cirou* 
lated ;  it  was  considered  very  partial,  and  special  inqui- 
ries were  made  as  to  who  that  captain  was.  He  was 
eompelled  to  listen  and  assent,  or  say  nothing.  On  the 
road  he  was  an  excessively  loyd  talker,  spoke  the  lan- 
guage perfectly,  with  his  admirable  arms  and  horse  equip- 
ments always  made  a  dashing  entree  into  a  village,  and 
was  called  "  muy  valiante,"  "very brave;'*  but  here  he 
was  a  subdued  man,  attracting  a  great  deal  of  attention, 
but  without  any  of  the  6clat  which  had  attended  him  on 
the  road,  and  feeling  that  he  was  an  object  of  suspicion 


» 


ukI  distrust.  Bat  he  had  one  consolation  that  nothing 
could  take  away :  he  had  not  been  in  the  batik,  gt,  to 
use  his  own  expression,  he  might  now  be  lying  on  the 
gioimd  with  his  fiEU^  upward. 

In  the  afternoon,  unexpectedly,  Mr.  Catherwood  ar- 
mei  He  had  passed  a  month  at  the  Antigua,  and  had 
jost  returned  from  a  second  visit  to  Copan,  and  had 
also  explored  other  mins,  of  which  mention  will  be 
fflide  hereafter.  Li  our  joy  at  meeting  we  tumbled  into 
eich  other's  arms,  and  in  the  very  first  moment  resolved 
not  to  separate  again  while  in  that  distracted  country. 


I. 


■'Vf 


#.'^' 


t^- 


ISO  IHCIDBHTB    OP    TRAVBL. 

to  accompany  me  to  San  Salvadoi,  it  waa  agreed  ibal 
during  my  absence  he  should,  wilh  the  Senores  Fayes,  go 
to  Quirigua,  which  he  accordingly  did. 

The  reader  must  go  back  to  Encuentros,  the  place  at 
trhich  we  slept  the  second  night  of  our  arrival  in  the 
country.  Prom  this  place  they  embaiked  in  a  canoe 
about  twenty-five  feet  long  and  four  broaJ,  dug  out  of 
die  trunk  of  a  mahogany-tree,  and  descending  two 
fajurs,  disembarked  at  Los  Aniates,  near  El  Poso,  on 
the  main  rood  &om  Yzabal  to  Guatimala,  the  place  at 
which  we  breakfasted  the  second  morning  of  our  arri- 
val in  the  country,  and  where  the  Seiiores  Payes  were 
obliged  to  wait  two  or  tliree  days.  The  place  was  a 
miserable  collection  of  huts,  scant  of  provisions,  and 
the  people  drank  a  muddy  water  at  their  doors  rather 
than  take  the  trouble  of  gomg  to  the  river. 

On  a  fine  morning,  after  a  heavy  rain,  they  set  off 
for  the  ruins.  After  a  ride  of  about  half  an  hour,  over 
an  execrable  road,  they  again  reached  the  Amaies.  The 
village  WHS  pleasantly  situated  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
and  elevated  about  thirty  feet.  The  river  was  here  abottt 
two  hundred  feet  wide,  aud  fordable  in  every  part  except 
a  few  deep  ht^es.  Generally  it  did  not  exceed  three  feet 
in  depth,  and  in  many  places  was  not  so  deep ;  but  be* 
low  it  was  said  to  be  navigable  to  the  sea  for  bonis  not 
drawing  more  than  three  feet  water.  They  embarked 
in  two  canoes  dug  out  of  cedar-trees,  and  proceeded 
down  the  river  for  a  couple  of  mUes,  where  they  took 
on  board  a.  negro  man  named  Juan  Lima,  and  his  two 
wives.  This  black  scoundrel,  as  Mr.  C.  marks  him 
down  in  his  notebook,  was  to  be  their  guide.  They 
then  proceeded  two  or  three  mUes  farther,  and  stopped 
at  a  rancho  on  the  left  side  of  the  river,  and  passing 
ibtough  two  com&elds,  entered  a  forest  of  large  cedar 


• 


J 


i   • 


MO 


lUeiBKT    MaiCVXSNTS.  1S1 

mod  mahoguiy  trees.  The  path  was  exceedingly  soft 
and  wet,  and  corered  with  deca3red  leaves,  and  the 
heat  Terj  great.  Continning  through  the  forest  toward 
the  northeast,  in  three  quarters  of  an  hour  they  reached 
the  foot  of  a  pyramidal  structure  like  those  at  Copan, 
with  the  steps  in  some  places  perfect.  They  ascended 
to  the  top,  about  twenty-five  feet,  and  descending  by 
steps  on  the  other  side,  at  a  short  distance  beyond  came 
to  a  colossal  head  two  yards  in  diameter,  almost  buried 
by  an  enormous  tree,  and  covered  with  moss.  Near  it 
was  a  large  altar,  so  covered  with  moss  that  it  was  im- 
possible to  make  anything  out  of  it.  The  two  are  with- 
in an  enclosure. 

Retracing  their  steps  across  the  pyramidal  structure, 
and  proceeding  to  the  north  about  three  or  four  hun- 
dred yards,  they  reached  a  collection  of  monuments  of 
the  same  general  character  with  those  at  Copan,  but 
twice  or  three  times  as  high. 

The  first  is  about  twenty  feet  high,  five  feet  six  inch- 
es on  two  sides,  and  two  feet  eight  on  the  other  two. 
^The  front  represents  the  figure  of  a  man,  well  pre- 
served ;  the  back  that  of  a  woman,  much  defaced.  The 
^ides  are  covered  with  hieroglyphics  in  good  preserva- 
tion, but  in  low  relief,  and  of  exactly  the  same  style  as 
"Kliose  at  Copan. 

Another,  represented  in  the  engraving,  is  twenty- 
^hree  feet  out  of  the  ground,  with  figures  of  men  on  the 
£ront  and  back,  and  hieroglyphics  in  low  relief  on  the 
^des,  and  surrounded  by  a  base  projecting  fifteen  or  six- 
^^een  feet  from  it. 

« 

At  a  short  distance,  standing  in  the  same  position  as 
Vegards  the  points  of  the  compass,  is  an  obelisk  or  carv- 
ed stone,  twenty-six  feet  out  of  the  ground,  and  proba- 
\llj  nz  or  eight  feet  under,  which  is  represented  in  the 

Vol.  n.— Q  11 


i«.  .-,-•,  WIT 


•:• 


^ 


r 


^CI9B«Va  #r   TEAlTBi, 


engrayiog  opposite.  It  w  leaning  twelTe  feet  two.  iiid||^ 
ee  out  of  the  perpendiwlar,  ftnd  seems  leady  to  Irfb 
which  is  probably  pievented  only  by  a  tree  that  li«f 
gciwn  up  against  jit  and  the  large  stones  around  1||S 
base.  The  side  toward  the  groimd  represents  thi  4^ 
^  ure  of  man,  very. perfect  and  finely  sculptured.  •  mat 
>*  upper  aide  seemed  the  same,  but  was  so  hidden  by  ¥f|^ 
getation  as  to  mi^e  it  somewhat  uncertain.  The  o1 
two  contain  hieroglyphios  in  low  relief.  In  sise 
sculpture  this  is  the  finest  of  the  whole. 

A  statue  ten  fact  high  is  lying  on  the  ground,  coi 
ed  with  moas  and  herbagCi  and  another  about  the 
size  lies  with  its  face  upward.  ,,  ^ 

There  are  four  others  erect,  about  twelve  feet  M^ 
but  not  in  a  very  good  state  of  preservatioai  and  sevem|^ 
altars  so  covered  with  herbage  that  it  wmi  diffifflilt  J|^ 
ascertain  their  exact  form.  One  of  them  is  roondi  m|K 
situated  on  a  small  elevation  within  a  circle  formed  j^ 
a  wall  of  stones.  In .  the  centre  of  the  circle,  reached 
by  descending  very  narrow  steps,  is  a  large  round  ston^ 
with  the  sides  sculptured  in  hieroglyphics,  covered  wilb 
vegetation,  and  supported  on  what  seemed  to  be  twn 
colossal  heads. 

These  are  all  at  the  foot  of  a  pyramidal  wall,  new 
each  other,  and  in  the  vicinity  of  a  creek  which  emptiy 
into  the  Motagufu  Besides  these  they  counted  thai^ 
teen  fragments,  and  doubtless  many  others  may  yet  li|^ 
discovered. 
vf&  At  some  distance  from  them  is  another  mom 
'  ^  nine  feet  out  of  ground,  and  probably  two  or  three  i 
der,  with  the  figure  of  a  woman  on  the  front  and 
and  the  two  sides  richly  ornamented,  but  witboujl 
roi^yphics. 

The  next  day  the  negro  promised  to  s^iow  "^^ 
eleven  scpiare  eolomns  h«riier«than  any  ke  J 


» jr- 


I 


Ta 


»  •■ 


J 


1 


A    LOST    CITY.  183 

utandiiig  in  a  row  at  the  foot  of  a  mountain ;  but  after 
(Iragging  him  three  hours  through  the  mud,  Mr.  C. 
found  by  the  compass  that  he  was  constantly  changing 
his  direction ;  and  as  the  man  was  armed  with  pistols, 
notoriously  a  b^d  fellow,  and  indignant  at  the  owners 
of  the  land  for  coming  down  to  look  after  their  squat- 
ters, Mr.  C.  became  suspicious  of  him,  and  insisted  upon 
returning.  The  Payes  were  engaged  with  their  own  af- 
fairs, and  having  no  one  to  assist  him,  Mr.  Ciithcrwood 
was  unable  to  make  any  thorough  exploration  or  any 
complete  drawings. 

The  general  character  of  these  ruins  is  the  same  as  at 
Copan.  The  monuments  are  much  larger,  but  they  are 
sculptured  in  lower  relief,  less  rich  in  design,  and  more 
faded  and  worn,  probably  being  of  a  much  older  date. 

Of  oTip.  thing  there  is  no  doubt :  a  large  city  once 
stood  there ;  its  name  is  lost,  its  history  unknown  ;  and, 
except  for  a  notice  taken  from  Mr.  C.'s  notes,  and  in- 
serted by  the  Sefiores  Payes  in  a  Guatimala  paper  after 
the  visit,  which  found  its  way  to  this  country  and  Eu- 
rope, no  account  of  its  existence  has  ever  before  been 
published.  For  centiuries  it  has  lain  as  completely  bu- 
ried as  if  covered  with  the  lava  of  Vesuvius.  Every 
traveller  from  Yzabal  to  Guatimala  has  passed  within 
three  hours  of  it ;  we  ourselves  had  done  the  same ;  and 
yet  there  it  lay,  like  the  rock-built  city  of  Edom,  unvis- 
ited,  unsought,  and  utterly  unknown. 

The  morning  after  Mr.  C.  returned  I  called  upon 
Senor  Payes,  the  only  one  of  the  brothers  then  in 
Guatimala,  and  opened  a  negotiation  for  the  purchase 
of  these  ruins.  Besides  their  entire  newness  and  im- 
mense interest  as  an  unexplored  field  of  antiquarian  re- 
search, the  monuments  were  but  about  a  mile  from  the 
river,  the  ground  was  level  to  the  bank,  and  the  river 


INCISBITTS     or    TRATZL. 


from  Ihat  place  was  navigable ;  the  city  might  be  tran^ 
ported  bodily  and  set  up  in  Now- York.  I  expressly 
stated  {and  my  reason  for  doing  so  will  be  obvious) 
that  I  was  acting  in  thb  matter  on  my  own  account, 
that  it  was  entirely  a  personal  aiTair  ;«but  Sciior  Pa- 
yes  would  consider  me  as  acting  for  my  government, 
and  said,  what  I  am  sure  he  nieaiit,  that  if  hia  family 
was  as  it  had  beea  once,  they  would  be  proud  to  pre* 
sent  the  whole  to  the  United  Stales ;  in  that  country 
they  were  not  appreciated,  and  he  would  be  happy  to 
contribule  to  the  caiiae  of  science  in  ours ;  but  they 
were  impoverished  by  the  convulsions  of  the  country; 
and,  at  all  events,  he  could  give  me  no  answer  till  his 
brothers  returned,  who  were  expected  in  two  or  three 
days.  Unfortimately,  as  I  believe  for  both  of  us,  Seiior 
Payes  consulted  with  tbe  Prenoh  oonnal  general,  who 
put  an  exaggerated  value  upon  the  ruins,  referring  him 
to  the  expenditure  of  Bcveral  hundred  thousand  dollars 
by  the  French  government  in  transporting  one  of  tbe 
obelisks  of  Luxor  from  Thebes  to  Paris.  Probably,  be- 
fore the  speculating  scheme  referred  to,  the  owners 
would  have  been  glad  to  sell  the  whole  tract,  consisting 
of  more  than  fifty  thousand  acres,  with  everything  on  it, 
luK)wn  and  unknown,  for  a  few  thousand  dollars.  I 
was  anxious  to  visit  them  myself,  and  learn  with  more 
certainty  the  possibility  of  their  removal,  but  was  afraid 
of  increasing  the  extravagance  of  his  notions.  Hia 
brothers  did  not  arrive,  and  one  of  them  unfortunately 
died  on  the  road.  I  had  not  the  government  for  pay- 
master ;  it  might  be  necessary  to  throw  up  the  purchase 
OB  accoiuit  of  the  oost  of  removal;  and  I  left  an  oSier 
with  Mr.  Savage,  the  result  of  which  is  still  uncertain ; 
but  I  trust  that  when  these  pages  reach  the  bands  of  tbe 
reader,  two  of  the  largest  mouiimcuts  will  be  on  tbeir 
way  to  this  city. 


BBCBPTIOir    AT    0OVBKVMB«T    BOVSB.    IM 


CHAPTER  Vni. 

Rteeptfon  at  the  QoftmmmA  Room.— Hm  Oiptaiii  in  TroabIe.-^A  Charft  ti 
dMiaeter^— Amngamente  tot  Joaraej  to  PatoDqoew— An«8t  of  the  Captein.— 
Hit  ReleMe.-— Viiit  ftom  a  GountryinaiL— 0aiigen  in  Prospect.— Last  Stroll 
thieogfa  the  Sabaiiie.—HoipUal  and  CameCery  of  San  Joan  de  Dios.— Feaifol 
State  of  the  Country.— Laat  Intemaw  with  Clurera.~Departare  from  Guatl- 
Bula.— A  Don  Qoixote.— Ciudad  Yieja.  — Plain  of  £1  Vieja.  —  Voicaiwaa 
Plains,  and  Villages.— San  Andres  Isapa.— Dangeroos  Road.— A  Molina. 

Thb  next  day  I  called  upon 'the  chief  of  the  state. 
At  this  time  there  Mras  no  question  of  presenting  credent 
dais,  and  I  was  received  by  him  and  all  gentlemen 
connected  with  him  without  any  distrust  or  suspicion^ 
and  more  as  one  identified  with  them  in  feelings  and  in- 
terests than  as  a  foreign  agent.     I  had  seen  more  of 
their  country  than  any  one  present,  and  spoke  of  its  ex- 
traordinary beauty  and  fertility,  its  volcanoes  and  mount- 
ainsi  the  great  canal  which  might  make  it  known  to  aH 
the  civilized  world,  and  its  immense  resources,  if  they 
would  let  the  sword  rest  and  be  at  peace  among  them* 
•elves.     Some  of  the  remarks  in  these  pages  will  per- 
haps be  considered  harsh,  and  a  poor  return  for  the 
kindness  shown  to  me.     My  predilections  were  in  fa- 
TOUT  of  the  Li];>efal  party,  as  well  because  they  sustain- 
ed the  Federation  as  because  they  gave  me  a  chanoe 
for  a  government ;  but  I  have  a  warm  feeling  towg|d 
many  of  the  leading  members  of  the  Central  party,    if 
I  speak  harshly,  it  is  of  their  public  and  political  chai- 
acter  only ;  and  if  I  have  given  offence,  I  regret  it. 

As  I  was  leaving  the  Government  House  a  gentleman 
followed  me,  and  asked  me  who  that  captain  was  that 
had  accompanied  me,  adding,  what  surprised  me  not  a 
little^  that  the  government  had  advices  of  his  travelling 


up  with  mc  from  La  Union,  bis  intention  to  }oin  Mi 
zan's  expedition^  and  his  change  of  purpose  in  conao- 
quence  of  meeting  Morazan  defeated  on  the  road ;  that 
as  yet  he  was  not  molested  only  because  he  was  stay- 
ing at  my  house.  I  was  disturbed  by  this  communics^ 
tioUf  I  was  open  to  the  iinputation  of  taking  advan- 
tage of  my  official  character  to  harbour  a  partisan.  1 
was  the  only  friend  the  captain  had,  and  of  course  de- 
termined to  stand  by  him ;  but  he  was  not  only  an  ob- 
ject of  suspicion,  but  actually  known ;  for  much  leas 
jeause  men  were  in^risoned  and  shot;  in  case  of  any 
outbreak^  my  bouse  would  not  be  a  protection ;  it  wimi 
•best  to  avoid  any  excitement,  and  to  have  an  undetw 
standing  at  once.  With  this  view  I  returned  to  the 
chief  of  the  state,  and  mentioned  the  circumstances  under 
which  we  had  travelled  together,  with  the  addition  that, 
as  to  myself,  I  would  have  taken  a  much  more  questioi^ 
able  companion  rather  than  travel  alone ;  and  as  to  the 
captain,  if  he  had  happened  to  be  thrown  ashore  on  their 
coast,  be  would  very  likely  have  taken  a  campaign  on 
•their  side  ;  that  he  was  not  on  his  way  to  join  the  exp^ 
dition  when  we  met  Morazan,  and  assured  him  moat 
earnestly  that  now  he  understood  better  the  other  side 
of  the  question,  and  I  would  answer  for  his  keeping 
quiet.  Don  Rivera  Paz,  as  I  felt  well  assured,  was  de- 
sirous to  allay  rather  than  create  excitement  in  the  city, 
iryeived  my  communication  in  the  best  spirit  possihUf 
and  said  the  captain  had  better  present  himself  to  tbe 
-government.  I  returned  to  my  house,  and  found  the 
captain  alone,  already  by  no  means  pleased  with  the 
•liirn  of  his  fortunes.  My  communication  did  not  relieve 
ikim,  but  he  accompanied  me  to  the  Government  House. 
.  I  could  hardly  persuade  myself  that  he  was  the  same 
eoan  whose  dashing  appearance  on  the  road  had  often 


mA$  |th#w«mc»i  wjiiflper  '^mvjr  valiente,"  and  wbo«9 
•Mfi^  to  #lliiiitiiQB|ipD«  of  daager  was,  that  a  man  can 
(wly  die  oDfce^  To  1>e  awre,  tba  soldiers  in  the  corridor 
i^MBd  to  intimate  that  tiiey  had  found  him  out ;  tbe 
gentlemen  ia  the  toom  tuiHray ed  him  from  bead  to  f oot, 
u  if  taking  notes  for  aa  adveaetiseiiient  of  bis  person, 
wd  thek  looks  ^[^>eared  to  aay  tbey  would  know  him 
wli8o  they  met  him  aguQ*  Od  horseback  and  with  a 
&ir  fieki^  the  captain  would>  haye  defied  the  whole  no- 
Uctse  of  Guatimala;  but  he  was  completely  cowedi 
^oke  only  when  he  was  spoken  to,  and  walked  out 
vitk  less  effrontery  than  I  supposed  possible. 

And  now  I  would  bin  let  the  reader  sit  down  and 

«qey  himself  quietly  in  Quatimala,  but  I  ccmnot.     The 

piMc  ^lid  not  admit  of  it.     I  could  not  conceal  from 

ayMlf  that  the  Federal  Government  was  broken  up ; 

there  was  not  the  least  prospect  of  its  eveir  being  re* 

Hmedi  nor^  fmr  a  kmg  time  to  eome^  of  any  other  being 

organized  in  its  stead.     Under  these  circumstances  I 

ilid  not  consider  myself  justified  in  remaining  any  longer 

ia  the  comitry.    I  was  perfectly  useless  for  all  the  pur« 

poees  of  my  mission,  and  made  a  formal  return  to  the 

MitfioritSes  of  Washington,   in  effect,   '^  after  diligent 

aeeieb,no  gorernment  fbund.^' 

I  was  once  more  my  own  master,  at  liberty  to  go 
wfaefe  I  pleased,  at  my  own  expense,  and  immediately 
we  commenced  making  arrangements  for  our  journey 
to  Palenque.  We  had  no  time  to  lose ;  it  was  a  thou* 
sand  miles  'distant,  and  the  rainy  season  was  approach* 
ing,  during  which  part  of  the  road  was  impassable. 
There  was  no  one  in  the  city  who  had  ever  made  the 
jonmey.  The  archbishop,  on  his  exit  bom  Guatimala 
eight  years  before,  bad  fled  by  that  road,  and  since  his 
lime  it  had  not  been  travelled  by  any  nesident  of  G^a- 


V 


Its  iN<rxD»NTs  or  rukwrnw 

timala ;  Imt  we  learned  enough  to  flatisff  ui-  that  il 
would  be  less  difBcoIt  to  reach  Palenqae  from  Newk 
York  than  from  where  we  were.    We  had  many  prap» 
arations  to  make,  and,  from  the  impossibility  of  gettmg 
servants  upon  whom  we  could  rely,  were  obliged  to 
attend  to  all  the  details  ourselves.     The  captain  was 
uncertain  what  to  do  with  himself,  and  talked  of  goijog 
with  us.     The  next  afternoon,  as  we  were  returning  to 
the  house,  we  noticed  a  line  of  soldiers  at  the  corner  o£ 
the  street     As  usual,  we  gave  them  the  sidewalk,  and 
in  crossing  I  remarked  to  the  captain  that  tbey  eyed  us 
sharply  and  spoke  to  each  other.     The  line  extended 
past  my  door  and  up  to  the  corner  of  the  next  street. 
Supposing  that  they  were  searching  for  General  Ous* 
man  or  other  officers  of  General  Moiszan  who  weia 
thought  to  be  secreted  in  the  city,  and  that  they  would 
not  spare  my  house,  I  determined  to  make  no  difficultjFf 
and  let  them  search.     We  went  in,  and  the  porter,  with 
great  agitation,  told  us  that  the  soldiers  were  in  pursuit 
of  the  captain.     He  had  hardly  finished  when  an  officer 
entered  to  summon  the  captain  before  the  corregidor. 
The  captain  turned  as  pale  as  death.     I  da  not  meaa 
it  as  an  imputation  upon  his  courage ;  any  othev  man 
would  have  done  the  same.     I  was  as  much  alarmed 
as  he,  and  told  him  that  if  he  said  so  I  would  fasten  the 
doors ;  but  he  answered  it  was  of  no  use ;  they  would 
break  them  down  ;  and  it  was  better  for  him  to  go  with 
ihe  officers.     I  followed  him^  to  the  door,  telling  him 
not  to  make  any  confessions,  not  to  commit  himself,  and 
that  I  would  be  with  him  in  a  few  minutes.     I  saw 
at  once  that  the   affair  was  out  of  the  hands  of  the 
chief  of  the  state,  and  had  got  before  an  inferior  tribu- 
nal.    Mr.  Catherwood  and  Mr.  Savage  entered  in  time 
to  see  the  captain  moving  down  the  street  with 


J 


4  9»ui«#  tm  nmw^  lit 

fl0ii  BIr.  "6,1  wh0  h«d  charge  <d  ioy  booK  danag 
aqr  >hiiwif|  wd  had  hoisted  the  Amezican  flag  du* 
nog  tb^  attack  upon  the  city»  had  Ured  ao  long  in  thai 
QOMtyi  and  had  beheld  00  many  aoenes  of  bonroflr^ 
thit  ha  was  not  eaaily  daiturbed,  and  knew  exactly 
likit  te  do.  He  aooompanied  me  to  the  eabildo, 
wheie  we  "found  the  captain  sitting  bolt  ifiright  with- 
in tiM  railings  and  the  eonregidor  and  his  4derk,  with 
pea,  ink,  and  paper,  and  ominous  fonnality,  exam. 
ioiog  him.  His  free  brightened  at  sight  of  the  only 
ouui  in  Guatimala  who  took  the  least  interest  in  his 
iate.  Fortunately,  the  oorregidor  was  an  acquaintance, 
wiio  bad  been  pleased  with  the  interest  I  took. in  the 
fword  ot  Alrarado,  an  interesting  relic  in  his  custody, 
and  was  one  of  the  many  whom  I  found  in  that  couor 

try  proud  of  shofnng  attentions  to  a  foreign  agent.     I 
olaimed  the  captain  as  my  travelling  coiq|imion,  said 

that  we  had  a  rough  journey  together,  and  I  did  not 

like  to  lose  sight  of  him.     He  welcomed  me  back  to 

Ghialiaiala,  and  appreciated  the  peril  I  must  have  mi* 

ODootered  in  meeting  on  the  road  the  tyrant  Morazan* 

The  captain  took  advantage  of  the  opportunity  to  de» 

tach  hisiself^  without  any  compunctions,  from  suoh  dani> 

gerous  fellowship,  and  we  conversed  till  it  was  too  dark 

to  write,  when  I  suggested  that,  as  it  was  dangerous  to 

be  out  at  night,  I  wished  to  take  the  captain  home  with 

me,  and  would  be  responsible  for  bis  forthcoming. 

He  assented  with  great  courtesy,  and  told  the  captain  to 

return  at  nine  o'clock  the  next  morning.     The  captain 

was  immensely  relieved ;  but  he  had  already  made  up 

bis  mind  that  he  had  come  to  Guatimala  on  a  trading 

expedition,  and  to  make  great  use  of  hia  gold  chains. 

The  next  day  the  examination  was  resumed.     The 

Vol.  n.~R 


o^rtam  oertftinly  did  not  leommh  himwlf  b^rabj  d<Mli« 

fesBiom ;  indeed,  the  revolution  in  his  sentimeftti  ifift 

mot',  extraordinary.     The  Guatimala  air  was  fistal^W 

partialities  for  Morazan.     The  examination,  by  faTC<itf 

of  the  corregidor,  was  satisfactory ;  but  the  captain  wM 

advised  to  leave  the  city.    In  case  of  any  exeitemenC 

he  would  be  in  danger.     Carrera  was  expected  frail* 

Quezaltenango  in  a  few  days,  and  if  he  took  it  up, 

which  he  was  not  unlikely  to  do,  it  might  be  a  bad 

business.     The  captain  did  not  need  any  urging.     A 

council  was  held  to  determine  which  way  he  should  gO| 

and  the  road  to  the  port  was  the  only  one  open.     Ha 

had  a  horse  and  one  cargo-mule,  and  wanted  another 

for  those  trunks.     I  had  seven  in  my  yard,  and  toM 

him  to  take  one.     On  a  bright  morning  he  pulled  oflF 

his  frockcoat,  put  on  his  travelling  dress,  mounted,  and 
set  oif  for  Jialize.     1  watched  him  as  he  rode  down  the 

street  till  he  was  out  of  sight.  Poor  captain,  where  is 
he  now  ?  The  next  time  I  saw  him  was  at  my  own 
house  in  New- York.  He  was  taken  sick  at  Balize,  and 
got  on  board  a  brig  bound  for  Boston,  was  there  at  the 
time  of  my  arrival,  and  came  on  to  see  me ;  and  the 
last  that  I  saw  of  him,  afraid  to  return  across  the  coun- 
try to  get  the  account  sales  of  his  ship,  he  was  about  to 
embark  for  the  Isthmus  of  Panama,  cross  over,  and  go 
up  the  Pacific.  I  was  knocked  about  myself  in  that 
country,  but  I  think  the  captain  will  not  soon  forget 
his  campaign  with  Morazan. 

At  this  time  I  received  a  visit  from  a  countryman, 
whom  I  regretted  not  to  have  seen  before.  It  was 
Dr.  Wecms,  of  Maryland,  who  had  resided  several 
years  at  the  Antigua,  and  lately  returned  from  a  viait 
to  the  United  States,  with  an  appointment  as  consuL 
He  came   to  consult  me  in  regard  to  the  result  of 


mW  .DAIWBAA    IN   PmOf?«GT.  Iftl 

my  seaveh  tot  a  government,  as  he  was  on  the  track 
with  his-  own  credentials.     The  doctor  advised  me  not 
to  undertake  the  journey  to  Palenque.    In  my  race 
baoL  Nicaragua  I  had  cheered  myself  with  the  idea 
that,  on  reaching  Guatimala,  all  difficulty  was  over, 
aod  that  our  journey  to  Palenque  would  be  attended 
oily  by  the  hardships  of  travelling  in  a  country  desti- 
tute of  accommodations ;  but,  unfortunately,  the  hori- 
zoa  in  that  direction  was  lowering.     The  whole  mass 
of  the  Indian  population  of  Los  Altos  was  in  a  state 
of  exoitement,  and  there  were  whispers  of  a  general 
nsiog  and  massacre  of  the  whites.     General  Prem,  to 
whom  I  have  before  referred,  and  his  wife,  while  trav- 
elling toward  Mexico,  had  been  attacked  by  a  band  of 
atneeiDS  ^  he  himself  was  left  on  the  ground  for  dead| 
and  his  wife  murdered,  her  fingers  cut  off,  and  the 
rings  torn  from  them.     Lieutenant  NicholB^^tlie  aidde- 
cimp  of  .Cokmel  McDonald,  arrived  from  the  Belize 
with  a  report  that  Captain  Caddy  and  Mr.  Walker,  who 
had  set  out  for  Palenque  by  the  Belize  River,  had  been 
speared  by  the  Indians ;  and  there  was  a  rumour  of 
some  dreadful  atrocity  committed  by  Carrera  in  Quez« 
altenango,  and  that  he  was  hurrying  back  from  that 
place  infuriate,  with  the  intention  of  bringing  all  the** 
pnsoners  out  into  the  plaza  and  shooting  them.     Every 
friend  in  Guatimala,  and  Mr.  Chatfield  particularly, 
urged  us  not  to  undertake  the  journey.     We  felt  that 
it  was  a  most  inauspicious  moment,  and  almost  shrunk ; 
I  have  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  it  was  a  matter  of 
most  serious  consideration  whether  we  should  not  aban- 
don it  altogether  and  go  home ;  but  we  had  set  out  with 
the  purpose  of  going  to  Palenque,  and  could  not  return 
without  seeing  it. 

Among  the  petty  difficulties  of  fitting  ourselves  I  may 


IM  IKCIDSKT8    OW    TEATBlb. 

flieiition  that  we  wanted  {cm  iaton  ohaiiB  lor  tnmka,  fepr 
could  only  get  two,  for  eyery  blackamitb  in  the  plaM 
was  making  chains  for  the  prieoners.  In  a  week  ham 
the  time  of  my  arrival  everything  was  ready  for  our 
parture.  We  provided  ourselves  with  all  the 
and  safeguards  that  oould  be  procured.  Besides  pnsi^ 
ports,  the  government  furnished  us  special  letters  of  ra5* ' 
ommendation  to  all  the  corregidors ;  a  flattering  notioe 
appeared  in  the  government  paper,  El  Tiempo,  me^ 
tioning  my  travels  through  the  provinces  and  my  intend* 
ed  route,  and  recommending  me  to  hospitality ;  andy 
upon  the  strength  of  the  letter  of  the  Archbishop  of  Bal- 
timore, the  venerable  provesor  gave  me  a  letter  of  lao- 
ommendation  to  all  the  curas  under  his  charge.  Bm 
these  were  not  enough ;  Carrera's  name  was  worth  morfs 
than  .them  all,  and  we  waited  two  days  for  his  retvm 
from  Quesaltenango.  On  the  sixth  of  April,  early  m 
the  morning,  he  entered  the  city.  At  about  nine  o'clock 
I  called  at  his  house,  and  was  informed  that  he  was  in 
bed,  had  ridden  all  night,  and  would  not  rise  till  the  af- 
ternoon. The  rumour  of  the  atrocity  committed  at  thai 
place  was  confirmed. 

After  dinner,  in  company  with  Mr.  Savage,  I  made 
'  my  last  stroll  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city.  I  never  felt,  as 
at  that  moment,  its  exceeding^eauty  of  position,  and 
for  the  third  time  I  visited  the  hospital  and  cemetery  of 
San  Juan  de  Dios.  In  front  was  the  hospital,  a  noUa 
structure,  formerly  a  convent,  supported  principally  by 
the  active  charity  of  Don  Mariano  Aycinena.  In  the 
centre  of  the  courtyard  was  a  fine  fountain,  and  beycnd 
it  the  cemetery,  which  was  established  at  the  time  of  the 
cholera.  The  entrance  was  by  a  broad  passage  with  a 
high  wall  on  each  side,  intended  for  the  burial  of  **  her* 


A    BVRIAL-PIiACB. 

«lie8."    There  was  but  one  giavei  and  the  stone  bore 
the  inscription 

Teodoio  Aibadli 
de  la  Religiooe  Refonnadt. 
July  19  de  1837. 

At  the  end  of  this  passage  was  a  deadhouse,  in  which 
lay,  on  separate  beds,  the  bodies  of  two  men,  both  poor, 
one  entirely  naked,  with  his  legs  drawn  up,  as  though 
no  friend  had  been  by  to  straighten  them,  and  the  other 
wrapped  in  matting.  On  the  right  of  the  passage  a  door 
opened  into  a  square  enclosure,  in  which  were  vaults 
boilt  above  the  ground,  bearing  the  names  of  the  weal- 
thy inhabitants  of  the  city.  On  the  left  a  door  opened 
ioto  an  enclosure  running  in  the  rear  of  the  dcadhouse, 
about  seven  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long,  and  three  hun- 
dred wide.  The  walls  were  high  and  thick,  and  the 
graves  were  square  recesses  lengthwise  in  the  wall, 
three  tiers  deep,  each  closed  up  with  a  flat  stone,  on 
which  the  name  of  the  occupant  was  inscribed.  These, 
too,  were  for  the  rich.  The  area  was  filled  with  the 
gtaves  of  the  common  people,  and  in  one  place  was  a 
•qaare  of  new-made  earth,  under  which  lay  the  bodies 
of  about  four  hundred  men  killed  in  the  attack  upon  the 
<sity.  The  table  of  land  commanded  a  view  of  the  green 
plain  of  Guatimala  and  the  volcanoes  of  the  Antigua. 
Beantiful  flowers  were  blooming  over  the  graves,  and  a 
Yoice  seemed  to  say, 

"  Oh  do  not  pluck  tbeae  flowers, 
They're  sacred  to  the  dead.** 

A  bier  approached  with  the  body  of  a  woman,  which 
Was  buried  without  any  coffin.  Near  by  was  a  line  of 
oew-made  graves  waiting  for  tenants.  They  were  dug 
^brongh  skeletons,  and  sculls  and  bones  lay  in  heaps  be- 
>de  them.    I  rolled  three  sculls  together  with  my  foot 

12 


184  INClDBNTt    or    TRATBL. 

It  was  a  gloomy  leave-taking  of  Ouatimala.  The  eutti 
slipped  under  my  feet  and  I  fell  backward ,  but  aavcil 
myself  by  stepping  across  a  new-made  grave.  I  verily 
believe  that  if  I  had  fallen  into  it,  I  should  have  bete 
superstitious,  and  afraid  to  set  out  on  my  journey. 

I  have  mentioned  that  there  were  rumours  in  t&JN^ 
city  of  some  horrible  outrage  committed  by  Camim 
at  Quezaltenango.  He  had  set  out  from  Guatimala 
in  pursuit  of  Morazan.  Near  the  Antigua  he  met  oaA 
of  his  own  soldiers  from  Quezaltenango,  who  report- 
ed that  there  had  been  a  rising  in  that  town,  and  Ad 
garrison  were  compelled  to  lay  down  their  arms.  En* 
raged  at  this  intelligence,  he  abandoned  his  pursuit  of 
Morazan,  and,  without  even  advising  the  governmMI 
of  his  change  of  plan,  marched  to  Quezaltenango,  and 
among  other  minor  outrages  seized  eighteen  of  tlii 
municipality,  the  first  men  of  ^e  state,  and  withoitt 
the  slightest  form  of  trial  shot  them  in  the  plaxa; 
and,  to  heighten  the  gloom  which  this  news  cast  over 
the  city,  a  rumour  preceded  him  that,  immediately  oH 
his  arrival,  he  intended  to  order  out  all  the  prisoneMt* 
and  shoot  them  also.  At  this  time  the  repressed  ewSf'^ 
citemcnt  in  the  city  was  fearful.  An  immense  relief* 
was  experienced  on  the  repulse  of  Morazan,  but  there 
had  been  no  rejoicing ;  and  again  the  sword  seemed' 
suspended  by  a  single  hair. 

And  here  I  would  remark,  as  at  a  place  where  it  has 
no  immediate  connexion  with  what  precedes  or  what 
follows,  and,  consequently,  where  no  application  of  it 
can  be  made,  that  some  matters  of  deep  personal  inter- 
est, which  illustrate,  more  than  volumes,  the  dreadfnl 
state  of  the  country,  I  am  obligi;d  to  withhold  altogeth- 
er, lest,  perchance,  these  pages  should  find  their  way 
to  Guatimaia  and  compromise  individuals.     In  my  long 


ii> 


FEARFITL    «TATX     Or    THB    COUNTRY.       136 

jonraey  I  liad  had  intercourse  with  men  of  all  parties, 
utd  was  qx>ken  to  freely,  and  sometimes  confidentially. 
Heretofore,  in  all  the  wars  and  revolutions  the  whites 
had  the  controlling  influence,  but  at  this  time  the  In- 
dian were  the  dominant  power.     Roused  from  the 
^h  of  ages,  and  with  muskets  in  their  hands,  their 
gentleness  was  changed  into  ferocity ;  and  even  among 
the  adherents  of  the  Carrera  party  there  was  a  fearful 
apprehension  of  a  war  of  castes,  and  a  strong  desire,  on 
the  part  of  those  who  could  get  away,  to  leave  the  coun- 
try.   I  was  consulted  by  men  having  houses  and  large 
landed  estates,  but  who  could  only  command  two  or 
ttree  thousand  dollars  in  money,  as  to  their  ability  to 
live  on  that  sum  in  the  United  States ;  and  individuals 
Mding  high  offices  under  the  Central  party  told  me 
that  they  had  their  passports  from  Mexico,  and  were 
wady  at  any  moment  to  fly.     There  seemed  ground  for 
the  iqyprehension  that  the  hour  of  retributive  justice  was 
Bigh,and  that  a  spirit  was  awakened  among  the  Indians 
ito  make  a  bloody  offering  to  the  spirits  of  their  fathers, 
•nd  recover  their  inheritnnce.     Carrera  was  the  pivot 
;^ which  this  turned.     He  was  talked  of  as  El  rey  de 
te  Indios,  the  King  of  the  Indians.     He  had  relieved 
them  from  all  taxes,  and,  as  they  said,  supported  his 
•nny  by  levying  contributions  upon  the  whites.     His 
power  by  a  word  to  cause  the  massacre  of  every  white 
inhabitant,  no  one  doubted.     Their  security  was,  as  I 
conceived,  that,  in  the   constant  action  of  his  short 
^eer,  he  had  not  had  time  to  form  any  plans  for  ex- 
tended dominion,  and  knew  nothing  of  the  immense 
<^ntry  from  Texas  to  Cape  Horn,  occupied  by  a  race 
^ynipathizing  in  hostility  to  the  whites.     He  >vas  a  fa- 
f^tic,  and,  to  a  certain  extent,  under  the  dominion  of 
^  priests ;  and  his  own  aouteness  told  him  that  ha 


186  ItfCIDBHTt    or    TftATVL. 

was  more  powerful  with  the  Indiaiui  themselTef  ^aiile 
supported  by  the  priests  and  the  aristocraey  than  at 
the  head  of  the  Indians  only ;  but  all  knew  that,  in  the 
moment  of  passion,  he  forgot  entirely  the  little  of  plan 
or  policy  that  ever  goyemed  him ;  and  when  he  return- 
ed from  Quezaltenango,  his  hands  red  with  blood,  and 
preceded  by  the  fearful  rumour  that  he  intended  to 
bring  out  two  or  three  hundred  prisoners  and  shoot 
them,  the  citizens  of  Ouatimala  felt  that  they  stood 
on  the  brink  of  a  fearful  gulf.  A  leading  member  of 
the  government,  whom  I  wished  to  call  with  me  upon 
him  and  ask  him  for  his  passport,  declined  doing  00, 
lest,  as  he  said,  Carrera  should  think  the  governmenl 
was  trying  to  lead  him.  Others  paid  him  formal  yiaitB 
of  ceremony  and  congratulation  upon  his  return,  and 
compared  notes  with  each  other  as  to  the  manner  in 
which  they  were  received.  Carrera  made  no  report^ 
official  or  verbal,  of  what  he  had  done ;  and  though  all 
were  full  of  it,  no  one  of  them  dared  ask  him  any  qae»*  "^ 
tions,  or  refer  to  it.  They  will  })erhaps  pronounce  ni#^ 
a  calumniator,  but  even  at  the  hazard  of  woundinfp' 
their  feelings,  I  cannot  withhold  what  I  believe  to  te: 


a  true  picture  of  the  state  of  the  country  as  it  was 
that  time. 

Unable  to  induce  any  of  the  persons  I  wished  to  call 
with  me  upon  Carrera ;  afraid,  after  such  a  long  interval 
and  such  exciting  scenes  as  he  had  been  engaged  in, 
that  he  might  not  recognise  me,  and  feeling  that  it  was 
all  important  not  to  fail  in  my  application  to  him,  I  re- 
membered that  in  my  first  interview  he  had  spoken 
warmly  of  a  doctor  who  had  extracted  a  ball  from  his 
side.  This  doctor  I  did  not  know,  but  I  called  upon 
him,  and  asked  him  to  accompany  me,  to  which,  wilh 
great  civility,  he  immediately  assented. 


LAST    IMVmWLYimW    WITH     CARRSRA.        1ST 

It  lAs  under  these  circumstances  that  I  made  my 

visit  to  Carrera.     He  had  removed  into  a  much 

Iprger  house,  and  his  guard  was  more  regular  and  ^» 

ipnl.    When  I  entered  he  was  standing  behind  a  table 

oa  one  side  of  the  room,  with  his  wife,  and  Rivera  Paz, 

fod  one  or  two  others,  examining  some  large  Costa 

Bica  chains,  and  at  the  moment  he  had  one  in  his  hands 

vhich  had  formed  part  of  the  contents  of  those  trunks  of 

my  friend  the  captain,  and  which  liad  often  adorned  his 

neck.    I  think  it  would  have  given  the  captain  a  spasm 

if  he  had  known  that  anything  once  around  his  neck 

waa  between  Carrera's  fingers.     His  wife  was  a  pretty, 

delicate-looking  Mestitzo,  not  more  than  twenty,  and 

Kerned  to  have  a  woman's  fondness  for  chains  and 

gdd.    Carrera  himself  looked  at  th^m  witli  indiffcr* 

ence.    My  idea  at  the  time  was,  that  these  jewels 

were  sent  in  by  the  government  as  a  present  to  his 

,    ^liie,  and  through  her  to  propitiate  him,  but  perhaps 

r]f'^^  wrong.     The  face  of  Rivera  Paz  seemed  anx- 

Carrera  had  passed  through  so  many  terrible 

since  I  saw  him,  that  I  feared  he  had  forgotten 

^  bat  he  recognised  me  in  a  moment,  and  made  room 

We  behind  the  table  next  to  himself.     His  military 

.$!>Oit  lay  on  the  table,  and  he  wore  the  same  roundabout 

jieket,  his  face  had  the  same  youthfulness,  quickness, 

^  intelligence,  his  voice  and  manners  the  same  gen» 

^loiess  and  seriousness,  and  he  had  again  been  wound- 

^    I  regretted  to  meet  Rivera  Paz  there,  for  I  thought 

it  must  be  mortifying  to  him,  as  the  head  of  the  govern- 

oient,  to  see  that  his  passport  was  not  considered  a  pro- 

^tion  without  Carrera's  endorsement ;  but  I  could  not 

>tod  upon  ceremony,  and  took  advantage  of  Carrera's 

living  the  table  to  say  to  him  that  I  was  setting  out  on 

^dangerous  road,  and  considered  it  indispensable  to  ibr-^ 

Vol.  n— S 


JiA. 


mOIDBHTV    or    TEATSL. 


tiff  myadf  with  aU  the  security  I  conld  get.  * 
Cezrent  returned  I  told  him  my  purpose ;  that  I  haA 
wttted  only  for  his  retnm;  showed  him  the  pastpovl 
of  the  goT»nment,  and  asked  him  to  pot  his  stamp 
upon  it.  Carrera  had  no  delicacy  in  the  matter ;  aoA 
taking  the  passport  out  of  my  hand,  threw  it  on  the  Itp 
Ue,  saying  he  would  make  me  out  a  new  one,  aiiA 
sign  it  himself.  This  was  more  than  I  expected ;  biQ 
in  a  quiet  way  telling  me  to  ^^  be  seated,"  he  sent  hip 
wife  into  another  room  for  the  secretary,  and  told  him 
to  make  out  a  passport  for  the  ^^  Consul  of  the  North." 
He  had  an  indefinite  idea  that  I  was  a  great  man  m 
my  own  country,  but  he  had  a  very  indefinite  idea  as 
to  where  my  country  was.  I  was  not  particular  about 
my  title  so  that  it  was  big  enough,  but  the  North  wa^ 
rather  a  broad  range,  and  to  prevent  mistakes  I  gave 
the  secretary  the  other  passport.  He  took  it  into  ai^ 
other  room,  and  Carrera  sat  down  at  the  table  besi^i 
me.  He  had  heard  of  my  having  met  Morazan  on 
retreat,  and  inquired  about  him,  though  less  anxio 
than  others,  but  he  ^okc  more  to  the  purpose; 
that  he  was  making  preparations,  and  in  a  week  he 
tended  to  march  upon  San  Salvador  with  three  th 
sand  men,  adding  that  if  he  had  had  cannon  he  wool^' 
have  driven  Morazan  from  the  plaza  very  soon.  I  asked' 
him  whether  it  was  true  that  he  and  Morazan  met  per* 
sonally  on  the  heights  of  Calvary,  and  he  said  that  th^ 
did ;  that  it  was  toward  the  last  of  the  battle,  when  the 
latter  was  retreating.  One  of  Morazan's  dismountsd 
troopers  tore  olT  his  holsters ;  Morazan  fired  a  pistol  at 
him,  and  he  struck  at  Morazan  with  his  sword,  and  cut 
his  saddle.  Morazan,  he  said,  had  very  handsome  pis- 
tols ;  and  it  struck  me  that  he  thought  if  he  had  kilp 
led  Morazan  he  would  have  got  the  pistols.     I  could 


■at  but  think  of  the  ttrange  positions  into  which  I 
vu  thnnni :  shaking  hands  and  sitting  side  by  side 
with  men  who  were  thirsting  for  each  other's  blood, 
well  leceiTed  by  all,  hearing  what  they  said  of  each 
other,  and  in  many  cases  their  plans  and  purposes,  as 
OBKBerTedly  as  if  J  was  a  travelling  member  of  both 
cdnaefiB.  In  a  few  minutes  the  secretary  called  him, 
and  he  went  out  and  brought  back  the  passport  himself, 
■gned  with  his  own  hand,  the  ink  still  wet.  It  had 
tiken  him  longer  than  it  would  have  done  to  cut  off  a 
head,  and  he  seemed  more  proud  of  it.  Indeed,  it  was 
the  only  occasion  in  which  I  saw  in  him  the  slightest 
deration  of  feeling.  I  made  a  comment  upon  the  ex- 
odknce  of  the  handwriting,  and  with  his  good  wishes 
far  my  safe  arrival  in  the  North  and  speedy  return  to 
ChiBtunala,!  took  my  leave.  Now  I  do  not  believe,  if 
he  knew  what  I  say  of  him,  that  he  would  give  me  a 
^f9j  cordial  welcome ;  but  I  believe  him  honest,  and  if 
knew  how,  and  could  curb  his  passions,  he  would  do 
good  for  Central  America  than  any  other  man 
it. 

mJ^-  I  Vas  now  fortified  with  the  best  security  we  could 
^  ifcfe  for  our  journey.  We  passed  the  evening  in  wri- 
^  letters  and  packing  up  things  to  be  sent  home 
(aaiongi»which  was  my  diplomatic  coat),  and  on  the  sev- 
enth of  April  we  rose  to  set  out.  The  first  movement 
Vaa  to  take  down  our  beds.  Every  man  in  that  coun- 
^  has  a  small  cot  called  a  catre,  made  to  double 
^rith  a  hinge,  which  may  be  taken  down  and  wrap- 
P4  up,  with  pillows  and  bedclothes,  in  an  oxhide, 
to  earry  on  a  journey.  Our  great  object  was  to  trav- 
d  lightly.  Every  additional  mule  and  servant  gave 
^itional  trouble,  but  we  could  not  do  with  less  than  a 
cargo-mule  apiece.    Each  of  us  had  two  petacas,  trunks 


140  iirciDxiir»  or  teayxl. 

made  of  oxhide  lined  with  thin  straw  mattingi  haTiB||ji 
top  like  that  of  a  box,  secured  by  a  clumsy  iron  chain 
iurge  padlocks,  containing,  besides  other  thingSi  a 
mock|  blanket,  one  pair  of  sheets,  and  pillow,  wIub^ 
with  alforgas  of  provisions,  made  one  load  apia^ai 
We  carried  one  catre,  in  case  of  sickness.  We  hai 
one  spare  cargo-mule ;  the  gray  mule  with  which  I  had 
ascended  the  Volcano  of  Cartago  and  my  macho  for  Mn 
Catherwood  and  myself,  and  a  horse  for  relief,  in  all  h 
animals ;  and  two  mozos,  or  men  of  all  work,  untriadi 
While  in  the  act  of  mounting,  Don  Saturnine  Tinoasi 
my  companion  from  Zonzonate,  rode  into  the  yard,  IB 
accompany  us  two  days  on  our  journey.  We  bada 
farewell  to  Mr.  Savage,  my  first,  last,  and  best  friendi 
and  in  a  few  minutes,  with  a  mingled  feeling  of  regiel 
and  satisfaction,  left  for  the  last  time  the  barrier  of 
timala. 

Don  Saturnine  was  most  welcome  to  our  party, 
purpose  was  to  visit  two  brothers  of  his  wife,  ctaH^ 
whom  he  had  never  seen,  and  who  lived  at  SantilM 
Atitan,  two  or  three  days'  journey  distant.  His  fatUl 
was  the  last  governor  of  Nicaragua  under  the  royal  nda| 
with  a  large  estate,  which  was  confiscated  at  the  tilM 
of  the  revolution ;  he  still  had  a  large  hacienda  theN^ 
had  brought  up  a  stock  of  mules  to  sell  at  San  Salvador, 
and  intended  to  lay  out  the  proceeds  in  goods  in  Ghil^ 
timala.  He  was  about  forty,  tall,  and  as  thin  as  a  mMi 
could  be  to  have  activity  and  vigour,  wore  a  roun4| 
about  jacket  and  trousers  of  dark  olive  cloth,  large  pft* 
tola  in  his  holsters,  and  a  long  sword  with  a  leathrt 
scabbard,  worn  at  the  point,  leaving  about  an  inoh  at 
steel  naked.  He  sat  his  mule  as  stitf  as  if  he  had  awiAi 
lowed  h:s  own  sword,  holding  the  reins  in  his  ri|^ 
hand,  with  his  left  arm  crooked  from  the  elbow. 


▲    DOH    QUIZOTB.  Ml 

hg  out  like  a  pump-handle,  the  hand  dropping  from  the 
viiit,  and  ahaking  with  the  movement  of  the  mule. 
Ha  lode  on  a  Mexican  saddle  plated  with  silver,  and 
cmiad  behind  a  pair  of  alforgas  with  bread  and  cheese, 
nd  tlole,  a  composition  of  ponnded  parehed  com, 
eoeoa,  and  sugar,  which,  mixed  with  water,  was  al- 
noit  his  living.  His  mozo  was  as  fat  as  he  was 
km,  and  wore  a  bell-crowned  straw  hat,  cotton  shirt, 
ittd  drawers  reaching  down  to  his  knees.  Excepting 
tbtt  instead  of  Rosinante  and  the  ass  the  master  rode  a 
inle  and  the  servant  went  afoot,  they  were  a  genuine 
Don  Quixote  and  Sancho  Panza,  the  former  of  which 
appellations,  very  early  in  our  acquaintance,  we  gave 
to  Don  Saturnine. 

We  set  out  for  QuezalteAango,  but  intended  to  turn 
lade  and  visit  ruins,  and  that  day  we  went  three  leagues 
wtof  our  road  to  say  farewell  to  our  friend  Padre  Al- 
imluraatCiudad  Vieja. 
jL'  At  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  con- 

yjliat,  where  I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  again  Padre 
^'Mninfmn^flrnnr  Vidaurre,  and  Don  P^e,  the  same 
futj  with  whom  I  had  passed  the  day  with  so  much 
MiitBustion  before.  Mr.  Catherwood  had  in  the  mean 
6ne  passed  a  month  at  the  convent.  Padre  Alcantara 
hd  fled  at  the  approach  of  the  tyrant  Morazan  ;  Don 
Bop^  had  had  a  shot  at  him  as  he  was  retreating  from 
th  Antigua,  and  the  padre  had  a  musket  left  at  night 
bj  a  flying  soldier  against  the  wall  of  the  convent. 

The  morning  opened  with  troubles.  The  gray  mule 
VIII  sick.  Don  Saturnine  bled  her  on  both  sides  of  her 
iificki  but  the  poor  animal  was  not  in  a  condition  to  be 
riddm.     Shortly  afterward  Mr.  Catherwood  had  one  of 

'    fc  moBoe  by  the  throat,  but  Padre  Alcantara  patched  up 
ft  pnce.    IKm  Satumino  said  that  the  gray  mule  would 


j-M 


14S  mciDxiTTi  or  teatbl. 

be  better  for  exercise,  and  for  the  last  time  we 
{breweli  to  oar  kind  host. 

Don  Pep6  escorted  us,  and  crossing  the  plain  c( 
Vieja  in  the  direction  in  which  Alvarado  entered  itf 
we  ascended  a  high  hill,  and,  turning  the  smnmil^^ 
through  a  narrow  opening  looked  down  upon  a  bea^^ 
tifui  plain,  cultivated  like  a  garden,  which  opened  to 
the  left  as  we  advanced,  and  ran  off  to  the  Lake  of 
Duenos,  between  the  two  great  volcanoes  of  Fire  and 
Water.  Descending  to  the  plain,  we  entered  the  gril- 
lage of  San  Antonio,  occupied  entirely  by  IndiaUi 
The  cura's  house  stood  on  an  open  plaza,  with  a  fine 
fountain  in  front,  and  the  huts  of  the  Indians  were  builk 
with  stalks  of  sugarcane.  Early  in  the  occupation  of 
Guatimala,  the  lands  around  the  capital  were  parti- 
tioned out  among  certain  canonigos,  and  Indians  weie 
allotted  to  cultivate  them.  Each  village  was  called  kgf 
the  caiiunigo's  own  name.  A  church  was  built,  and. a 
fine  house  for  himself,  and  by  judicious  management 
the  Indians  became  settled  and  the  artisans  for  the  cap^f 
ital.  In  the  stillness  and  quiet  of  the  village,  it  scemeA 
as  if  the  mountains  and  volcanoes  around  had  shielded 
it  from  the  devastation  and  alarm  of  war.  Passing 
through  it,  on  the  other  side  of  the  plain  we  com* 
mcnced  ascending  a  mountain.  About  half  way  upi- 
looking  back  over  the  village  and  plain,  wc  saw  a  sin- 
gle white  line  over  the  mountain  we  had  crossed  to  thn 
Ciudod  Vieja,  and  the  range  of  the  eye  embraced  t^ 
plain  and  lake  at  our  feet,  the  great  plain  of  Escuintia, 
the  two  volcanoes  of  Agua  and  Fuego,  extending  to 
the  Pacific  Ocean.  The  road  was  very  steep,  and  o«r 
mules  laboured.  On  the  other  side  of  the  mountain  thn 
road  lay  for  some  distance,  between  shrubs  and  araai| 
txeesi  emerging  from  which  we  saw  an  immense  pining 


A 


A 'SBAVTirUI.    COUMTET.  I4t 

Inken  by  the  track  of  the  direct  road  from  Onatiinala, 
ud  «&r  off  the  spires  of  the  town  of  Chimaltenango. 
At  tha  foot  of  the  monntain  we  reached  the  village  of 
BBnunoH.  We  had  been  three  hours  and  a  half  making 
nx  fflfles.  Don  Pep6  summoned  the  alcalde,  showed 
Um  Carrera-s  passport,  and  demanded  a  guide  to  the 
DBXt  Tillage.  The  alcalde  called  his  alguazils,  and 
n  a  very  few  minutes  a  gnide  was  ready.  Don  Pep6 
told  us  that  he  left  us  in  Europa,  and  with  many 
Amio  we  bade  him  farewell. 

We  were  now  entering  upon  a  region  of  country  whichy 
it  the  time  of  the  conquest,  was  the  most  populous,  the 
ttut  crvilised,  and  best  cultivated  in  Guatimala.  The 
people  who  occupied  it  were  the  descendants  of  those 
ibnid  there  by  Alvarado,  and  perhaps  four  fifths  were  In- 
diaiis  of  untainted  blood.  For  three  centuries  they  had 
ataitted  quietly  to  the  dominion  of  the  whites,  but  the 
riang  of  Carrera  had  waked  them  up  to  a  recollection  of 
tl^ir  fiithers,  and  it  was  rumoured  that  their  eyes  rolled 
itnngely  upon  the  white  men  as  the  enemies  of  their 
itos.-  For  the  -first  time  we  saw  fields  of  wheat  and 
jindi-trees.  The  country  was  poetically  called  Euro- 
pi;  and  though  the  Volcano  de  Agua  still  reared  in  fuU 
■gbt  its  stupendous  head,  it  resembled  the  finest  part  of 
England  on  a  magnificent  scale. 

Bat  it  was  not  like  travelling  in  England.  The 
JOQBg  man  with  whose  throat  Mr.  Catherwood  had 
teen  so  familiar  loitered  behind  with  the  sick  mule  and 
i  gun.  He  had  started  from  Ciudad  Vieja  with  a 
<ktWB  kaife  in  his  hand,  the  blade  about  a  foot  and  a 
Uf  long,  and  we  made  up  our  minds  to  get  rid  of  him ; 
but  we  feared  that  he  had  anticipated  us,  and  had  gone 
off  with  the  mule  and  gun.  We  waited  till  he  came  up, 
iidiefed  him  from  the  gun,  and  made  him  go  forwardi 


U4  iwciDBVTf  or  TBAvmJu 

while  we  droTe  the  nude.     At  the  distance  of  fm 
leagues  we  reached  the  Indian  village  of  San  ftniti 
Isapa.    Don  Satumino  flourished  Carrera's  passport,  ah 
trodoced  me  as  £1  Ministro  de  Nneva-York,  demandii 
a  guide,  and  in  a  few  minutes  an  t»^p^n\  was  tcottiig 
before  us  for  the  next  village.    At  this  viUage,  on  ihi 
same  requisition,  the  alcalde  ran  out  to  look  for  an  ab 
guasil,  but  could  not  find  one  immediately,  and 
tured  to  beg  Don  Satumino  to  wait  a  moment. 
Saturnino  told  him  he  must  go  himself;  Carrera 
cut  off  hiB  head  if  he  did  not ;  ^^  the  minister  of  New- 
York"  could  not  be  kept  waiting.     Don  Satumino,  Wm 
many  others  of  my  friends  in  that  country,  had  no  rftf 
definite  notions  in  regard  to  titles  or  places.     A  ms9 
happened  to  be  passing,  whom  the  alcalde  pressed  ists 
service,  and  he  trotted  on  before  with  the  halter  of  :ths 
led  horse.     Don  Satumino  hurried  him  along ;  .as  we 
approached  the  next  village  Carrera's  soldiers  were  in 
sight,  returning  on  the  direct  road  to  Guatimala,  fresh 
from  the  slaughter  at  Quezaltenango.     Don 
told  the  guide  that  he  must  avoid  the  plaza  and  go 
to  the  next  village.     The  guide  be^^d,  and  Don 
urnino  rode  up,  drew  his  sword,  and  threatened  to  cot 
his  head  off.     The  poor  fellow  trotted  on,  with  his  eye 
fixed  on  the  uplifted  sword ;  and  when  Don  Saturnino 
turned  to  me  with  an  Uncle  Toby  expression  of  f^e, 
he  threw  down  the  halter,  leaped  over  a  hedge  fence, 
and  ran  toward  the  town.     Don  Saturnino,  not  discoBp 
certed,  caught  up  the  halter,  and,  spurring  his  mnle, 
pushed  on.     The  road  lay  on  a  magnificent  table-laiid, 
in  some  places  having  trees  on  each  side  for  a  great 
distance.     Beyond  this  we   had  a   heavy  rain-stoOB, 
and  late  in  the  afternoon  reached  the  brink  of  an  im- 
mense precipice,  in  which,  at  a  great  distance,  wa 


MNf  the  ionolina  or  wheat-mill,  looking  like .  a  New- 
Bagiand-  iactory.  The  descent  was  very  steep  and 
ttBddy,  winding*'  in  places  close  along  the  precipitous 
flde  rf  the  ravine.  Great  care  was  necessary  with  the 
;  their  tendency  was  to  descend  sidcwise,  which 
very  dangerous;  but  in  the  steepest  places,  by 
iMqiing  Aeir  heads  straight,  they  would  slip  in  the  mud 
•mnd  paoesi  bradb'g  their  feet  and  without  falling, 

•At  dark,  wet  and  muddy,  and  in  the  midst  of  a 
hMvy  rain,  we  reached  the  molina.  The  major-domo 
wi  a  Costa  Bican,  a  countryman  of  Don  Batumino, 
wii  fertunately,  we  had  a  room  to  ourselves,  though  it 
mi  damp  and  ehilly.  Here  we  learned  that  Tecpan 
QMiii»la,  one  of  the  ruined  cities  we  wished  to  visit, 
^m  hot  three  leagues  distant,  and  the  major-domo  of- 
fawi  to  go  with  us  in  the  morning. 

Vei^,  IL_T  13 


» 


/' 


146  IlfCIDCHTS    or    TKATBl. 


CHAPTER  IX. 


-   rf- 


iomn&f  c«BtiDiied.p-Bainiicaa.— TeqMO  GnaltaHilk— A  nobto  CbHinli     i-^ 
end  StoiM.^TIie  BDcient  Ciiy.—DMcription  of  tte  Roim.— A  Molina.*, 
er  EutlMpiilM — Patsom.— A  lUTine.— FortifiealioiiB.»Loo  Allot. -^ 
—Long  a  good  FimoI— lfa|iuftceiit  Seenerj.— Sui  AiHonloy-^jteof  Ali- 


•  ^ 


In  the  morning  the  major-domo  furnished  us  with  fiiis 
horses,  and  we  started  early.  Almost  immediatelj  we 
commenced  ascending  the  other  side  of  the  ratios 
which  we  had  descended  the  night  before,  and  on  thettip 
entered  on  a  continuation  of  the  same  beautifid  and  ex- 
tensive table-land.  On  one  side,  for  some  distancey  weie 
high  hedge  fences,  in  which  aloes  were  growing,  ndin 
one  place  were  four  in  full  bloom.  In  an  hour  we  arri- 
ved at  Patzum,  a  large  Indian  village.  Here  we  turned 
off  to  the  right  from  the  high  road  to  Mexico  by  a  sort  of 
by-path ;  but  the  country  was  beautiful,  and  in  parti 
well  cultivated.  The  morning  was  bracing,  and  the 
climate  like  our  own  in  bctober.  The  immense  table- 
land was  elevated  some  five  or  six  thousand  feet,  but 
none  of  these  heights  have  ever  been  taken.  We  pass- 
ed on  the  right  two  mounds,  such  as  are  seen  all  over 
our  own  country,  and  on  the  left  an  immense  barranca. 
The  table  was  level  to  the  very  edge,  where  the  eaitii 
seemed  to  have  broken  off  and  sunk,  and  we  looked 
down  into  a  frightful  abyss  two  or  three  thousand  feet 
deep.  Gigantic  trees  at  the  bottom  of  the  immense 
cavity  looked  like  shrubs.  At  some  distance  beyond 
we  passed  a  second  of  these  immense  barrancas,  and  in 
an  honr  and  a  half  reached  the  Indian  village  of  Teo- 


V* 


GKntiBMhu    For  some  ^ystance  before  reeobing  it 

Tood  was  shaded  by  trees  and  sbnibs,  among  whioh 

iiere  aloes  thirty  feet  high.     The  long  street  by  nrhich 

lie  entered  was  paved  with  stones  from  the  ruins  of  the 

dd  city,  and  filled  with  drunken  Indians ;  and  rushing 

tnoai  it  was  one  with  his  arms  around  a  woman's  neck. 

Ax  tbe  head  of  this^aCreet  was  a  fine  plaza,  with  a  large 

MbSdo,  and  twenty  or  thirty  Indian  alguazils  under  the 

mridovi  with  wands  of  office  in  their  hands,  silent,  in 

fan  suits  of  blue  cloth,  the  trousers  open  at  the  knees, 

•od  oloak  with  a  hood  like  the  Arab  burnouse.     Ad- 

JQuung  this  was  the  large  courtyard  of  the  church, 

|HT€^  with  stone,  and  the  church  itself  was  one  of  the 

■Dit  magnificent  in  the  country.     It  was  the  second 

Uk  after  the  conquest.     The  faqade  was  tw^  hundred 

ittt,  ?ery  lofty,  with  turrets  and  spires  gorgeously  or- 

Bttsented  with  stuccoed  figures,  and  a  high  platform,  on 

vhich  were  Indians,  the  first  we  had  seen  in  picturesque 

<nitixme ;  and  with  the  widely-extended  view  of  the 

ooBBtry  around,  it  was  a  scene  of  wild  magnificence  in 

MtarB  and  in  art.     We  stopped  involuntarily;  and 

^"Uethe  Indians,  in  mute  astonishment,  gazed  at  us,  we 

^veve  lost  in  surprise  and  admiration.     As  usual,  Don 

Sfttomino  was  the  pioneer,  and  we  rode  up  to  the  house 

sf  the  padre,  where  we  were  shown  into  a  small  room, 

vith  the  window  closed  and  a  ray  of  light  admitted 

ftoiB  the  door,  in  which  the  padre  was  dozing  in  a 

huge  chair.     Before  he  had  fairly  opencKl  his  eyes,  l>on 

Sttundno  told  him  that  we  had  come  to  visit  the  ruins 

cf  the  old  city,  and  wanted  a  guide,  and  thrust  into  his 

Mods  Canrera's  passport  and  the  letter  of  the  provesor. 

jRie  padre  was  old,  fat,  rich,  and  infirm,  had  been  thhrty- 

ive  yem  cura  of  Tecpan  Gnatimala,  and  was  not  used 

tftd^pglfttefijA  a  Wry »  tall  our  ^iewUknowngtbt 


T. 


TM  iKoiDfeNTa  or-  tsavbl. 

portioular  objeets  of  oor  vtsity  with  great  eomettnett 
haste  told  the  padre  that  the  miniister  of  New»York 
had  heard  in  his  country  of  a  remaricable  stone,  and  this 
provesor  and  Carrera  were  anxious  for  him  to  aee  it 
The  padre  said  that  it  was  in  the  ohtorch,  and  lay  <Mi 
the  top  of  the  grand  altar ;  the  oup  of  the  sacrameflt 
stood  upon  it ;  it  was  covered  up,  and  very  sacred ;  fab 
had  never  seen  it,  and  he  was  evidently  unwilling  to 
let  us  see  it,  but  said  he  would  endeavour  to  do  no 
when  we  returned  from  the  ruins.  He  sent  for  a  guidei 
and  we  went  out  to  the  courtyard  of  the  church ;  and 
while  Mr.  Catherwood  was  attempting  a  sketch,  I  walk- 
ed up  the  steps.  The  interior  was  lofty,  spacious,  rkdn 
ly  ornamented  with  stuccoed  figures  and  paintings,  daik 
and  solemn,  and  in  the  distance  was  the  grand  altori 
with  long  wax  candles  burning  upon  it,  and  Indiaal 
kneeling  before  it.  At  the  door  a  man  stopped  moi  and 
aaid  that  I  must  not  enter  with  sword  and  spurs,  and 
even  that  I  must  take  oif  my  boots.  I  would  have 
done  so,  but  saw  that  the  Indians  did  not  like  a  stran* 
ger  going  into  their  church.  They  were  evidently  en* 
tirely  unaccustomed^  to  the  sight  of  strangers,  and  Mr. 
Catherwood  was  so  annoyed  by  their  gathering  round 
him  that  he  gave  up  his  drawing ;  and  fearing  it  would 
be  worse  on  our  return,  I  told  Don  Saturnino  that  we 
must  make  an  effort  to  see  the  stone  now.  Don  Satur* 
nino  had  a  great  respect  for  the  priests  and  the  Church. 
He  was  not  a  fanatic,  but  be  thought  a  powerful  reli* 
gious  influence  good  for  the  Indians.  Nevertheless,  he 
said  we  ought  to  see  it ;  and  we  went  back  in  a  body 
to  the  padre,  and  Don  Saturnine  told  him  that  we  were 
anxious  to  see  the  stone  now,  to  prevent  delay  on  our 
return.  The  good  padre^s  heavy  body  was  troubled* 
He  asked  for  the  provesor^s  letter  againi  read  it  orar, 


A    SAtltaD    9TOVS.  140 

«M  out  00  ih6  cttrridor  and  oonBulted  with  a  brother 
about  as  old  and  roun4  as  himself,  and  at  length  told  lui 
to  Wait  in  that  room  and  he  would  bring  it.  As  he  went 
wit  he  ordered  all  the  Indians  in  the  courtyard,  about 
tovtj  or  fifty,  to  go  to  the  cabildo  and  tell  the  alcalde  U> 
lead  the  guide.  In*  a  few  minutes  he  returned,  and 
Dpeniag  with  some  trepidation  the  folds  of  his  large 
gDfm^  pf  oduoed  the  stone. 

FaenteiBy  in  speaking  of  the  old  city,  says,  <<  To  the 
irenwird  of  the  dty  there  is  a  little  mount  that  com- 
imodi  it,  on  which  stands  a  small  round  building  about 
six  feet  in  height,  in  the  middle  of  which  there  is  a  ped- 
efltel  formed  of  a  shining  substance  resembling  giass^ 
but  the  preoise  quality  of  which  has  not  been  ascertain- 
ed.   Seated  around  this  building,  the  judgte  heard  and 
4ieoided  the  causes  brought  before  them,  and  their  sen- 
tences were  executed  upon  the  spot.     Previous  to  exe* 
eating  them,  however,  it  was  necessary  to  have  them 
oonfirmied  by  the  oracle,  for  which  purpose  three  of 
tke  judges  left  their  seats  and  proceeded  to  a  deep  ra«> 
▼ine,  where  there  was  a  place  of  worship  containing  a 
Uack  transparent  stone,  on  the  surface  of  which  the 
Deity  was  supposed  to  indicate  the  fate  of  the  criminaU 
If  tbm  decision  was  approved,  the  sentence  was  execu- 
ted immediately ;  if  nothing  appeared  on  the  stone,  the 
aocsased  was  set  at  liberty.     This  oracle  was  also^  con- 
sulted in  the  afiairs  of  war.     The  Bishop  Francisco 
Marroquin  haviog  obtained  intelligence  of  this  slab,. 
ordered  it  to  be  cut  square,  and  consecrated  it  fat  the 
lop  xd  the  grand  ahar  in  the  Church  of  Tecpan  Guati- 
loalflU    It  is  a  stone  of  singular  beauty,  about  a  yard 
and  a  half  each  way."     The  <^  Modern  Traveller"  re- 
fees  to  it  as  an  ^^  interesting  specimen  of  ancient  art  ;'^ 
9ad  in  1825  concludes,  ^  we  may  hope,  before  long^  U> 


ISO  INCIDBHTS    09    T&A¥I^ 

reoeiye  some  more  distinot  aeooonl  of  thk 
8tone." 

The  world — meaning  thereby  the  two  clasBea  mtoi 
which  an  auth<Mr  once  divided  it,  of  snbscribers  ai^ 
non-snbflcribera  to  his  work — ^the  world  that  reads  theis 
pages  is  indebted  to  Don  Satumino  for  some  additiooil 
information.  The  stone  was  sewed  up  in  a  piece  of 
cotton  cloth  drawn  tight,  which  looked  certainly  as  old  if, 
the  thirty-five  years  it  had  been  under  the  cura's  chargBi 
and  probably  was  the  same,  covering  in  which  it 
enveloped  when  first  laid  on  the  top  of  the  altar, 
or  two  stitches  were  cut  in  the  middle^  and  thb 
perhaps  all  we  should  have  seen ;  but  Don  Satumiiio^ 
with  a  hurried  jargon  of  <<  strange,  curious,  saoredi  m^- 
oomfHrehensible,  the  provesor's  letter,  minister  of  New^. 
York,''  &c.,  whipped  out  his  penknife,  and  the  goo^ 
old  padre,  heavy  with  agitation  and  his  own  weigkty 
sunk  into  his  chair,  still  holding  on  with  both  handii 
Don  Saturnino  ripped  till  he  almost  out  the  good  old 
man's  fingers,  slipped  out  the  sacred  tablet,  and  left  the 
sack  in  the  padre's  hands.  The  padre  sat  a  picture  of 
self-abandonment,  helplessness,  distress,  and  self-ie* 
proach.  We  moved  toward  the  light,  and  Don  Satui^ 
nino,  with  a  twinkle  of  his  eyes  and  a  ludicrous  eametU 
ness,  consummated  the  padre's  fear  and  horror  h§ 
scratching  the  sacred  stone  with  his  knife.  This  oraop 
ular  slab  is  a  piece  of  common  slate,  fourteen  inches  bgr 
ten,  and  about  as  thick  as  those  used  by  boys  at  schools 
without  characters  of  any  kind  upon  it.  With  a  stronig 
predilection  for  the  marvellous,  and  scratching  it  moat 
irreverently,  we  could  make  nothing  more  out  of  it.  Doa 
Saturnino  handed  it  back  to  the  padre,  and  told  him 
that  he  had  better  sew  it  up  and  put  it  back ;  and  prob- 
ably it  is  now  in  its  place  on  the  top  of  the  grand  altar». 


rum  AWcisiTT  city.  l&l 

with  the  aenvnental  cap  iqpoo  it^  aa  objeet  of  yeaeniF 
tion  to  the  fimatic  Indians. 

But  the  agitation  of  the  padre  destioyed  whatever 

there  waa  of  comic  in  the  scene.    Recovering  from  the 

ahocky  he  told  us  not  to  go  back  through  the  town ;  that 

there  was  a  road  direct  to  the  old  city ;  and  concealing 

the  tablet  under  his  gown^  he  walked  out  with  a  firm 

itep,  and  in  a  strong,  unbroken  voice,  rapidlyi  in  their 

own  onintelligible  dialect,  called  to  the  Indians  to  bring 

op  our  horses,  and  directed  the  guide  to  put  us  in  the 

raad  which  led  direct  to  the  molina.     He  feared  that  the 

Indians  mig^t  discover  our  sacrilegious  act;  and  as  we 

looked  in  itaek  stiqrid  fieu^es^  we  were  well  satisfied  to 

get  away  before  any  such  discovery  was  made,  rejoicing 

more  than  the  padre  that  we  could  get  back  to  the  mo* 

liiia  without  returning  through  the  town* 

We  had  but  to  mount  and  ride.  At  the  distance  of 
a  mile  and  a  half  we  reached  the  bank  of  an  immense 
ravine.  We  descended  it,  Don  Saturnino  leading  the 
way;  and  at  the  foot,  on  the  other -side,  he  stopped  at 
a  narrow  passage,  barely  wide  enough  for  thft  mule  to 
pass.  This  was  the  entrance  to  the  old  city.  It  was 
a  winding  passage  eut  in  the  side  of  the  ravine^  twenty 
or  thirty  feet  deep,  and  not  wide  enough  for  two  horse- 
men to  ride  abreast ;  and  this  continued  to  the  high  table 
of  land  on  which  stood  the  ancient  city  of  Patinamit. 

This  city  flourished  with  the  once  powerful  kingdom 
ct  the  Kachiquel  Indians.  Its  name,  in  their  language, 
Bieana  ^  the  city."  It  was  also  called  Tecpan  Guati- 
mala,  which,  acccNrding  to  Vasques,  means  <^  the  Royal 
House  of  Guatimala,"  and  he  infers  that  it  was  the  cap- 
ital of  the  Kachiquel  kings ;  but  Fuentes  supposes  that 
Tecpan  Guatimala  was  the  arsenal  of  the  kingdom,  and 
not  the  royal  residence^  which  honour  belonged  to  Guap 


IW  INCIDBlfT8    OF    TJIATVL. 

timala,  and  ihat  the  fbnner  was  so  called  from  ita  ail 
tion  on  au  eminence  with  respect  to  the  latter,  the  wqi4^ 
Tecpan  meaning  "  above." 

According  to  Fuente^,  Patinamit  was  seated  on  m^ 
eminencei  and  surrounded  hj  a  deep  defile  or  natmaJt 
fomei  the  perpendicular  height  of  which,  from  the  levA 
of  the  city,  was  more  than  one  hundred  fathoms.     TIhi 
only  entrance  was  by  a  narrow  causeway  terminated^ 
by  two  gates,  constructed  of  the  chay  stone,  one  on  tke. 
exterior  and  the  other  on  the  interior  wall  of  the  cit|^ 
The  plane  of  this  eminence  extends  about  three  niila|9k 
in  length  from  north  to  south,  and  about  two  in  breadth 
from  east  to  west.     The  soil  is  covered  with  a  stiff  obf!*. 
about  three  quarters  of  a  yard  deep.     On  one  side  b^ 
the  area  are  the  remains  <^  a  magnificent  building,  peiEv. 
fectly  square,  each  side  measuring  one  hundred  paoea»; 
constructed  oi  hewn  stones  extremely  well  put  together;, 
in  front  of  the  building  is  a  large  square,  on  one  side  of 
which  stand  the  ruins  of  a  sumptuous  palace,  and  near 
to  it  are  the  foundations  of  several  houses.     A  trendk 
three  yards  deep  runs  from  north  to  south  through  the 
city,  having  a  breastwork  of  masonry  rising  about  a 
yard  high.     On  the  eastern  side  of  this  trench  stood  thm 
houses  of  the  nobles,  and  on  the  opposite  side  the  houses 
of  the  maseguales  or  commoners.     The  streets  were,  a» 
may  still  be  seen,  straight  and  spacious,  crossing  eaols 
other  at  right  angles^ 

When  we  rose  upon  the  table,  for  some  distance  it 
bore  no  marks  of  ever  having  been  a  city.  Very  sooft 
we  came  upon  an  Indian  burning  down  trees  and  pre» 
paring  a  piece  of  ground  for  planting  corn.  Don  Sat* 
umino  asked  him  to  go  with  us  and  show  us  the  ruina^ 
but  he  refused.  Soon  after  we  reached  a  hut,  outside- 
of  which  a  woman  was  washing.     We  asked  her  to  ao» 


DESCfttmoK    Of    VttS    ft9IN3.  tU 

ilRElftpaiiy  tts^  but  she  ran  into  th«  hut.     Beyond  this  we 
iMbched  ft  wttU  of  (ktones^  btrt  broken  and  confused.    We 
tied  our  horses  in  the  shade  of  trees,  and  commenced  ex- 
iffkmtff  on  loot     The  ground  was  covered  with  mounds 
^  mills.    In  one  place  we  saw  the  foundations  of  two 
Imases,  one  of  them  iabout  a  hundred  feet  long  by  fifty 
liM  broad.     It  was  one  hundred  and  forty  years  since 
Paentes  published  the  account  of  his  visit ;  during  that 
time  the  Indians  had  carried  away  on  their  backs  stones 
lo  build  up  the  modern  village  o(  Tecpan  Guatimala, 
Mid  the  hand  of  ruin  had  been  busily  at  work.    We  in- 
jured partSoalarly  for  sculptured  figures;   our  guide 
khitr  of  twO)  and  after  considerable  search  brought  us 
to  theib.     They  were  lying  on  the  ground,  about  three 
Aat  long,  so  worn  that  we  could  not  make  them  out, 
^^  on  one  the  eyes  and  nose  of  an  animal  wete 
^^Mnguisfaable.     The  position  commanded  an  almost 
^^Htndless  view,  and  it  is  surrounded  by  an  immense  ra* 
^tite,  which  warrants  the  description  given  of  it  by  FU" 
^ttes.    In  some  places  it  wae  frightful  to  look  dovm 
ttkto  its  depths.     On  every  side  it  was  inaccessible,  and 
^  only  way  of  reaching  it  was  by  the  narrow  passage 
^b^h  which  we  entered,  its  desolation  and  ruin  add- 
^  anoth^  puge  to  the  burdened  record  of  human  con- 
ations, and  proving  that,  as  in  the  world  whose  his- 
^  we  know,  so  in  this  of  whose  history  we  are  igno- 
v^  nian's  hand  has  been  agtdilst  his  fellow.    The  sol- 
^  Indian  hut  is  all  that  now  occupies  the  site  of  the 
*>Meiit  city ;  bnt  on  Gt)od  Friday  of  every  year  a  sol- 
^xui  procession  of  the  whole  Indian  population  is  made 
^  it  from  the  village  of  Tecpan  Gnatimala,  and,  as  our 
8^  told  OS,  on  that  day  bells  are  heard  sounding  Qtt« 
^  the  earth* 
'DesMBdiag  by  the  ssinie  natroW  plmage»  we  ttav* 
VoL.IL— U 


154  ivciDivTs  OF  tmAwmu 

ersed  the  ravine  iand  ascended  on  the  other  side.   - 
guide  pat  us  into  the  road  that  aToided  die  towUf 

we  set  off  on  a  gallop. 

Don  Saturnino  possessed  the  extremes  of  good 
per,  simplicity,  uprightness,  intelligence,  and 
ranee.  Ever  since  I  fell  in  with  him  he  had  been 
useful,  but  this  day  he  surpassed  himself;  and  he 
so  well  satisfied  with  us  as  to  declare  that  if  it  were 
for  his  wife  in  Costa  Rica,  he  would  bear  us  compaayta 
Palenque.  He  had  an  engagement  in  Guatimala 
particular  day ;  every  day  that  he  lost  with  us 
much  deducted  firom  his  visit  to  his  relatives ;  and  d 
his  earnest  request  we  had  consented  to  paas  a  day  mA 
them,  though  a  little  out  of  our  road.  We  reached  die 
molina  in  time  to  walk  over  the  mill.  On  the  side  of  Ait 
hill  above  was  a  large  building  to  receive  grain,  and  be* 
low  it  an  immense  reservoir  for  water  in  the  dry  nnaii^ 
but  which  did  not  answer  the  purpose  intended.  The 
mill  had  seven  sets  of  grindstones,  and  working  nigbl 
and  day,  ground  from  seventy  to  ninety  negases  of  wheat 
in  the  twenty-four  hours,  each  negas  being  six  arobaaef 
twenty-five  pounds.  The  Indians  bring  the  wheats  aoA 
each  one  takes  a  stone  and  does  his  own  grinding,  paty^ 
ing  a  rial,  twelve  and  a  half  cents,  per  negas  for  dM 
use  of  the  mill.  Flour  is  worth  about  from  three  dol« 
iars  and  a  half  to  four  dollars  the  barreL 

Don  Saturnino  was  one  of  the  best  m^i  that  ever  lived) 
but  in  undress  there  was  a  lankness  about  him  that  wie 
ludicrous.  In  the  evening,,  as  he  sat  on  the  bed  with  Us 
thin  arms  wound  around  his  thin  legSi  and  we  reproied 
him  for  his  sacrilegious  act  in  cutting  open  the  coCton 
clothy  his  little  eyes  twinkled,  and  Mr.  C.  and  1 1nn|[hii 
as  we  had  not  before  laughed  in  Central  America. 

Bat  in  that  country  one  extreme  followed  oloae 


j<« 


iKiidMi»  At  Badiiigfat  we  woe  toived  from  deep  by 
te.t  mofMnent  which,  enoe  feU,  can  ncTcr  be  mbtaken. 
Die  building  locked,  onr  men  in  the  corridor  cried  out 
^taeidor,"  and  Mr*  C.  and  I  at  the  same  moment  ex- 
Mmi  ^  an  earthquake !''  Onr  oatres  stood  trans- 
wnljr*.  By  die  undulating  movement  of*  the  earth  he 
ma^ed  from  side  to  side,  and  I  from  head  to  foot. 
Iheankmgf  of  my  head  induced  an  awful  fidntness  of 
kttt  I  qprang  upon  my  feet  and  rushed  to  the  door. 
ka  momant  the  earth  was  still.  We  sat  on  the  sides 
tf  the  bed,  compared  movements  and  sensations,  lay 
knhk  again,  and  slept  till  morning. 

Early  in  die  morning  we  resupied  our  journey.  Un- 
fatmately,  the  gray  mule  was  no  better.  Perhaps  she 
voddiieooyer  in  a  few  days,  but  we  had  no  time  to  wait. 
Ky  fint  mule,  too,  purchased  as  the  price  of  seeing  Don 
OniMitino'B  sister,  which  had  been  a  most  faithfrd  an- 
inri,  was  drooping.  Don  Satumino  olSered  me  his 
Wi,  a  strong,  hardy  animal,  in  exchange  for  the  latter, 
>id  the  former  I  left  behind,  to  be  sent  back  and  turned 
M  sn  Ae  pasturcogrounds  of  Padre  Alcantara.  There 
iKit.few  trials  greater  in  that  country  than  that  of 
Mag  obliged  to  leave  on  tiie  road  these  tried  and  faith- 
fid  eonqpanions. 

!b  PatsRsn  our  road  was  thi  same  as  the  day  before. 
Befcte  reaching  it  we  had  difficulty  with  the  luggage, 
aai  left  at  a  hut  on  the  road   onr  only  catre.    Leav- 
ing FMsmn  on  the  left,  our  road  lay  on  the  high,  *level 
lihhi  ql  landi  fani.  at  ten  o'clock  we  came  to  the  brink 
at  aifttvide  tbrie. thousand  feet  deep,  saw  an  immense 
ah^  at  onr  feet,  and  opposite,  the  high,  precipitous 
wallHyf  flie  ravine.    Our  road  lay  across  it.    At  the 
rwoff  oonttnencement  the  descent  was  steep.    As  we  ad- 
twioedtbe  path  wound  fearfully  along  the  edge  of  the 


'r' 


1^  V2iqiiaa.ii.Ts  or  t^atvIn 

precipice)  and  wp  iB^t  a,  oaraYan  cxf  nudes  at  a  iiamMr 
place,  where  there  waa  no  room  to  turn  out,  and  iw 
were  obliged  to  go  back,  taking  care  to  give  them  tha 
outside.  All  the  way  down  we  were  meeting  them*} 
perhaps  more  than  five  hundred  passed  us,  loaded 
wheat  for  the  mills  and  cloths  for  Guatimala.  In 
ing  so  many  mules  loaded  with  merchandise,  we  loil 
the  vague  and  indefinite  apprehensions  with  which  ma 
had  set  out  on  this  road.  We  were  kept  back  by  theaa 
more  than  half  an  hour,  and  with  great  labour  reachoA 
the  bottom  of  the  ravine.  A  stream  ran  through  it ;  tern 
some  distance  our  road  lay  in  the  stream,  and  we  orosa* 
ed  it  thirty  or  forty  times.  The  sides  of  the  ravine  ware 
of  an  immense  height.  In  one  place  we  rode  along  • 
perpendicular  wall  of  limestone  rock  smoking  with 
spontaneous  combustion. 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  commenced  ascending  tbv 
opposite  side.  About  half  way  up  we  met  another 
caravan  of  mules,  with  heavy  boxes  on  their  sidca,; 
tumbling  down  the  steep  descent  They  came  upoa 
us  so  suddenly  that  our  cargo-mules  got  entangled' 
among  them,  turned  around,  and  were  hurried  down 
the  mountain.  Our  men  got  them  disengaged,  and 
wc  drew  up  against  the  side.  As  we  ascended,  t^i 
ward  the  summit,  far  above  us,  were  rude  fortifica- 
tions, commanding  the  road  up  which  we  were  toiling. 
This  was  the  frontier  post  of  Los  Altos,  and  the  poei* 
tion  taken  by  General  Guzman  to  repel  the  invasidi 
of  Carrera.  It  seemed  certain  death  for  any  body  oT 
men  to  advance  against  it ;  but  Carrera  sent  a  detaclw 
ment  of  Indians,  who  clambered  up  the  ravine  at  an- 
other place,  and  attacked  it  in  the  rear.  The  fortifier 
tions  were  pulled  down  and  burned,  the  boundary  linee 
demolished,  and  Los  Altos  annexed  to  Guatimala.    Hem 


LO«IVa    A    GOOD    FEIBVD.  16T 

W0'iiiist  sn  iimKrHi  wko  ouufiniied  wlist  the  iiiiil0t6Qn 
iMid  toM  my  diat  ihe  road  to  Santiago  Atitlan,the  placa 
of '  reaideiiee  of  Don  Satumino's  relatives,  was  five 
leagveSi  and  exceedingly  bad,  and,  in  order  to  save 
€>iir  Inggage-mules,  we  resolved  to  leave  them  at  the 
village  of  Oodines,  about  a  mile  farther  on.     The  vil- 
li^ge  consisted  of  but  three  or  four  huts,  entirely  deso- 
late ;  there  was  not  a  person  in  sight.    We  were  afraid 
to  trust  our  moKos  alcme;  they -might  be  robbed,  or 
Aey  mi^ht  rob  us  themselves;  besides,  they  had  no- 
thing to  eat.     We  were  about  at  the  head  of  the  Lake 
of  Atitlan^    It  was  impossible,  with  the  cargo-mules,  to 
reach  Santiago  Atitlan  that  day ;  it  lay  on  the  left  bor- 
der of  the  lake ;  our  road  was  on  the  right,  and  it 
agreed  for  Don  Saturnine  to  go  on  alone,  and  for 
to  continue  on  our  direct  road  to  Panajachel,  a  vil- 
on  the  right  border  opposite  Atitlan,  and  cross  the 
IaIkc  to  pay  our  visit  to  him.     We  were  advised  that 
ttiere  were  c^uioes  for  this  purpose,  and  bade  fare- 
^^  to  Don  Saturmno  with  the  confident  expectation 
^  seeing  him  again  the  next  day  at  the  house  of  his 
i^Iadves ;  but  we  never  met  again. 

At  two  o'clock  we  came  out  upon  the  lofty  table  of 

iBiidixirdering  the  Lake  of  Atitlan.    In  general  I  have 

brbome  attempting  to  give  any  idea  of  the  magnificent 

tcenery  amid  which  we  were  travelling,  but  here  for- 

t^ssranoe  would  be  a  sill.     From  a  height  of  three  or 

four  thousand  feet  we  looked  down  upon  a  surface  shi- 

lUQg  like  a  sheet  of  molten  silver,  enclosed  by  rocks 

and  mountains  of  every  form,  some  barren,  and  some 

<iovered  with  verdure,  rising  from  five  hundred  to  five 

^Inmsand  feet  in  height.     Opposite,  down  on  the  borders 

^  the  lake,  'and  apparently  inaccessible  by  land,  was  the 

^^^  of  Santiago  Atitlan,  to  which  our  friend  was  wend- 

14 


UBfi  UfCLDSVTV    or    TRAmflJL 

ing  bis  wayi  situated  between  two  immftiwe  n 
eight  or  ten  thousand  feet  bigh*  Fartber  on  was 
other  volcanoy  and  farther  still  another,  more  lofty 
all|  with  its  summit  buried  in  clouds.  There  wefe  ■• 
associations  connected  with  this  lake;  until  lately  us 
did  not  know  it  even  by  name ;  but  we  both  agraei 
that  it  was  the  most  magnificent  spectacle  we  ever  aan; 
We  stopped  and  watched  the  fleecy  clouds  of  Tapov 
rising  from  the  bottom,  moving  up  the  mountaias  ainl 
the  sides  of  the  volcanoes.  We  descended  al^  first  by 
a  steep  pitch,  and  then  gently  for  about  three  nalis 
along  the  precipitous  border  of  the  lake,  leaving  oa  oii 
right  the  oamino  real  and  the  village  of  San  Andiasi 
and  suddenly  reached  the  brink  of  the  table4and,  M» 
thousand  feet  high.  At  the  foot  was  a  rich  plain  runiUBg 
down  to  the  water ;  and  on  the  opposite  side  anothsr 
iin'^*»py^  perpendicular  mountain  side,  rising  to  the  sane 
height  with  that  on  which  we  stood.  In  the  middle  «f 
the  plane,  buried  in  foliage,  with  the  spire  of  the  chuMk 
barely  visible,  was  the  town  of  Panajacfael.  Our  fiitl 
view  of  the  lake  was  the  most  beautiful  we  had  evet 
seen,  but  this  surpassed  it.  All  the  requisites  of  the 
grand  and  beautiful  were  there ;  gigantic  mountains,  a 
valley  of  poetic  softness,  lake,  and  volcanoes,  and  firoa 
the  height  on  which  we  stood  a  waterfall  marked  a  sil- 
ver line  down  its  sides.  A  party  of  Indian  men  aad 
women  were  moving  in  single  file  froni  the  foot  of  Ihs 
mountain  toward  the  village,  and  looked  like  ohildreni 
The  descent  was  steep  and  perpendicular,  and,  r< 
ing  the  plain,  the  view  of  the  mountain-walls  was 
lime.  As  we  advanced  the  plain  formed  a  trian^ 
with  its  base  on  the  lake,  the  two  mountain  ranges  eon- 
verged  to  a  point,  and  communicated  by  a  narrow  do> 
file  beyond  with  the  village  of  San  Andres. 


«■■     SJLKB    or    &TITLAK.  109 

-  Bidiiiirtbfoagli  a  thick  fotcBitoi  fruit  and  flower  trees, 
ealnred  the  vUlage,  and  at  three  o'clock  rode  up  to 
eoBvenct  The  padre  was  a  young  man,  cura  of  four 
&itr-  fite  villages,  rich,  formal,  and  polite ;  but  aU  ores 
lfta«  worid  women  are  better  than  men;  his  mother 
sirter  receiTed  us  eordiallj.  They  were  in  great 
en  aceonnt  of  the  outrage  at  Quezaltenango. 
CSdtrera's  troops  had  passed  through  on  their  return 
to  Ghtttimala,  and  they  feared  that  the  same  bloody 
seeMs  were  to  be  enacted  all  through  the  country, 
ftot  ef  his  outrages  were  against  the  person  of  a  cura, 
M  (his  seemed  to  break  the  only  chain  that  was  sup- 
^tni  to  keep  him  in  subjection.  Unfortunately,  we 
hillied  Aol  there  was  little  or  no  communication  with 
SMigo  Atidan,and  no  canoe  on  this  side  of  the  lake. 
Oto  €Kdy  dhanee  of  seeing  Don  Satumino  again  IVAS 
ttMthe  would  learn  this  fact  at  Atitlan,  and  if  there  waa 
iCttioe  there,  send  it  for  us^  After  dinner,  with  a  tar* 
^W  of  the  house  as  guide,  we  walked  down  to  the 
tte.  The  path  lay  through  a  tropical  garden.  The 
<ftaate  was  entirely  different  from  the  table-land  above, 
ttd  prodaotionS  which  would  not  grow  there  flourished 
Iki^  Sapotesi  jocotes,  aguacates,  manzanas,  pineap^ 
pks,  oranges,  and  lemons,  the  best  fruits  of  Central 
America,  grew  in  profusion,  and  aloes  grew  thirty  to 
ttiity-five  feet  high,  and  twelve  or  fourteen  inches  thick, 
ctkirated  in  rows,  to  be  used  for  thatching  miserable 
firiian  huts.  We  eame  down  to  the  lake  at  some  hot 
*pt!i^,  ao  near  the  edge  that  the  waves  ran  over  the 
spring,  the  fermet  lyeing  very  hot,  and  the  latter  very 
cofcL 

Aeeording  to  Juarros,  ^<  the  Lake  of  Atitlanisone  of 
^  most  remarkable  m  the  kingdom.  It  is  about  twen- 
^fbvat  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  ten  from  north  to 


'IHO  INCIBXKrS     OF  T&ATIJb. 

oonthy  entirely  surroimded  by  rocks  and  mountaink 
There  is  no  gradation  of  depth  from  its  shoresy-and  the 
bottom  has  not  been  found  with  a  lii\e  of  three  hundved 
fetthoms.     It  receives  several  rivers,  and  all  the  waten 
that  descend  from  the  mountains,  but  there  is  no  knoiini 
ehannel  by  which  this  great  body  is  carried  otL     The 
only  fish  caught  in  it  are  crabs,  and  a  species  of  amatt 
fish  about  the  size  of  the  little  finger.     These  are  ia  aaeh 
countless  myriads  that  the  inhabitants  of  the  surroimdiiig 
ten  villages  carry  on  a  considerable  fishing  for  thenou" 
At  that  hour  of  the  day,  as  we  understood  to  be  the 
ease  always  at  that  season  of  the  year,  heavy  olou^i 
were  hanging  over  the  mountains  and  voloanoeSy  mad' 
the  lake  was  violently  agitated  by  a  strong  southwait 
wind;  as  our  guide  said,  la    laguna    es   muy  biava. 
Santiago  Atitlan  was  nearly  opposite,  at  a  diataaee  eC 
seven  or  eight  leagues,  and  in  following  the  irregaler 
and  mountainous  border  of  the  lake  from  the  pcHnt  wham 
Don  Batumino  left  us,  we  doubted  whether  he  could 
reach  it  that  night.     It  was  much  farther  off  than  we 
supposed,  and  with  the  lake  in  such  a  state  of  agitation, 
and  subject,  as  our  guide  told  us,  at  all  times  to  vio- 
lent gusts  of  wind,  we  had  but  little  inclination  to  croas 
it  in  a  canoe.     It  would  have  been  magnificent  to  see 
Acre  a  tropical  storm,  to  hear  the  thunder  roll  among 
the  mountains,  and  see  the  lightnings  flash  down  into 
the  lake.    We  sat  on  the  shore  till  the  sun  disappeared 
behind  the  mountains  at  the  head  of  the  lake.    Mingled 
with  our  contemplations  of  it  were  thoughts  of  other  and 
fiur  distant  scenes,  and  at  dark  we  returned  to  the  oqop 
Tent. 


&AJKa    OF    ATITIiAK*  Nt 


OHAPTEB  X. 

^-•Im  of  ▲tSdaii.-GiMgwAiiiM  as  to  iu  OrifiB,  d^ 

IWiiiStaiCiaiL— A.  kftflCoaiiUin  Rufe^-Aiteent  of  ^  MouiiUiiii.— Cooi- 
fnm^  Jf^tm^  WmmWrdL  Piiia^Aa  ttorifd  FiUige.-BMt  wUmg  ibt  Uku 
--MQia.--Fi«t  to  8««^  Cnif  <kl  Qak:fa(k--Scto«fy  on  Um  BiMd.--B«^^ 
**-8«i  ThoMnL--Whipjpi]if.poftf.~]lam  of  QnicM.— The  Village.— Rnioi  of 
^ImU.— Hi  Krtoqr.— DMtef  «otB«.— A  luotioaa  Con.— DneripCton  of 
lit  Mm^— Piott'— TV  Aoyal  Poloeo.— Tho  Place  of  SacriJeou— Aa  hii^ 
^-Two  Hoada,  dEc— Deatroction  of  the  Pfelaoe  recent.— An  AicIl 

'   Rmuf  m  the  anoraiiig  we  again  went  down  to  ikB 

lafca>    No(  a  vmpoor  was  on  the  water,  and  the  top  of 

•orvty  Toloana  was  clear  of  clouds.    We  looked  over  to 

9mKtimgo  Atitaa,  bat  there  was  no  indication  of  a  cmoe 

•«aung  far  as.    Wa  whiled  away  the  time  in  shooting 

laild  ducska,  tait  coald  get  only  two  ashore,  whisk  wa 

afierwaid  found  of  escelleat  flavour.    According  to 

ihaaoeonat  grvea  by  Juarros,  tibe  water  of  this  lake  is 

so  csld  Ibat  in  a  few  minutes  it  benumbs  and  swells  the 

Inbs  af  aU  who  tedie  in  it.     But  it  looked  so  inviting 

)ktt  we  delermined  to  risk  it,  sad  w«re  not  benumbed^ 

isr  iviBBe  our  limbs  awolktt.    The  inhabitaHts,  we  wera 

toU,  hathod  in  it  constantly ;  and  Mr.  C.  remained  a 

losg  tinie  in  Ike  water,  supported  by  his  Itfe  preserver^ 

^aithoiit  taking  any  exercise,  and  was  not  conscioua 

^  extreme  ooldness.    Sn  the  utter  ignorance  that  ex^ 

^  m  zagacd  to  the  geography  and   geology  oi  thai 

^osBtry^  it  may  be  diat  the  account  of  its  foAondesa 

'cpth,  snd  the  absence  of  any  visible  outlet,  is  as  nn» 

Poinded  as  Unt  of  the  coldness  of  its  waters. 

The  Modern  TraTveller,  in  referring  to  the  want  of 

^P^cifie  infonnatiott  with  regard  to  its  elevationy  and 

oiker  circumstances  fibm  which  to  frame  a  conjecture 

^  to  its  origin,  and  the  probable  communioation  of  ita 

Vol.  n.— X 


■  ■ 


•-r     ■  ^/ 


.---*'■ 


waten  with  some  other  reservoir,  states  that  the  ** 
which  it  contains  are  the  same  as  are  found  in  the  Lak» 
of  Amatitan,"  and  sAs^  ^May  there  not  be  some  oon- 
nexion  between  these  lakes,  at  least  the  fathomless  aiM|^ 
and  the  Volcan  de  Agua  V^  We  were  told  that  the  no* 
hara,  the  fish  for  which  the  Lake  of  Amatitan  is  oala- 
brated  in  that  comitry,  was  not  found  in  the  Lake  «f 
Atitlan  at  all ;  so.  that  on  this  ground  at  least  there  is.ao 
reason  to  suppose  a  connexion  between  the  two  hJkiea. 
In  regard  to  any  connexion  with  the  Volcan  de  Agoa,. 
if  the  account  of  Torquemada  be  true,  the  deluge  of  wft* 
ter  from  that  volcano  was  not  caused  by  an  eruplioB^ 
but  by  an  accumulation  of  water  in  a  cavity  on  the  topf 
and  consequently  the  volcano  has  no-  subterraneous  wft-i 
tei  powers  The  elevation  of  this  lake  has  never  bmmt 
take%  and  the  whole  of  thia  cegion  of  country  invilM 
the  attention  of  the  scientific  traveller. 

While  we  were  dressing,  Juan^  one  of  our  moanii 
found  a  canoe  along  the  shore^  It  was  an  oblong  ^^  dug- 
out," awkward  and  rickety,  and  intended  for  only 
person ;  but  the  lake  was  so  smooth  that  a  plank 
ed  sufficient.  We  got  in,  and  Juan  pushed  oflF  anA 
paddled  out.  As  we  moved  away  the  mountainous  boiw 
ders  of  the  lake  rose  grandly  before  us ;  and  I  had  joift 
called  Mr.  C.*s  attention  to  a  cascade  opening  upon  im 
from  the  great  hei^t  of  perhaps  three  or  four  thou* 
sand  feet,  when  we  were  struck  by  a  flaw,  whiek 
turned  the  canoe,  and  drove  us  out  into  the  lako. 
The  canoe  was  overloaded,  and  Juan  was  an  unskilfid 
paddler.  For  several  minutea  he  pulled,  with  every 
sinew  stretched,  but  could  barely  keep  her  head  straight. 
Mr.  C.  was  in  the  stern,  I  on  my  knees  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  canoe.  The  loss  of  a  stroke,  or  a  tottev* 
ing  movement  in  changing  places,  might  swamp  her  ; 


7 


L9FTT     MOYNTAIK     KAK«X.  tM 

aad  if  we  let  her  go  she  would  be  driven  out  into  the 
lake,  and  cast  aehdrei-  if  at  all,  twenty  oi  thirty  miles 
distanti  whence  we  should  have  U>  scramble  back  over 
mountains ;  and  there  was  a  worse  danger  than  this,. 
for  in  the  afternoon  the  wind  always  came  from  the 
other  side,  and  might  drive  us  back  again  into  the 
middle  of  the  lake.  We  saw  the  people  on  the  shore 
looking  at  us,  and  growing  smaller  every  moment,  but 
they  could  not  help  us.  In  all  our  difficulties  we  had 
none  that  came  upon  us  sa  suddenly  and  unexpectedly, 
or  that  seemed  more  threatening.  It  was  hardly  ten 
miiiutes  since  we  were  standing  quietly  on  the-  beach, 
and  if  the  wind  had  continued  five  minutes  longer  I  do 
not  know  what  would  have  become  of  us ;  but,  moat 
fortunately,  it  lulled.  Juan's  strength  revived ;.  with  a 
great  effort  he  brought  u&  under  coves  of  the  high  head- 
land beyond  which  the  wind  first  struck  us,  and  in  a 
few  minutes  we  reached  the  shore. 

We  had  had  enough  of  the  lake ;.  time  was  precious^- 
and  we  determined  to  set  out  after  dinner*  and  ride  four- 
leagues  to  Solola.  We  took  another  mozo,  whom  the 
padre  recommended  as  a  bobon,  or  great  fool.  The  firatt 
^wo  were  at  swords'  points,  and  with  such  a  trio  there 
wi^as  not  much  danger  of  combination.     In  loading  the 

.ales  they  fell  to  quarrelling,  Bobon  taking  hia  share. 

ver  since  we  Left,  Bon  Saturnine  had  superintended 

ti^  operation,  and  without  him  everything  wenV  wrong 

43oe  mule  slipped  part  of  its  load  in  the  courtyaid)  and 

*ire  made  but  a  sorry  party  for  the  long  jouiaaey  w«  had 

"before  us.     From  the  village  onr  road  lay  toward 

^te  lake,,  ta  the  poiat  of  the  opposite  mountain,  which 

shut  in  the  plain  of  PanajacheL     Here  we  began  to  as- 

^nd.    For  a  while  the  path  commanded  a  view  of  the 

^>Uage  and  plain.;  but  by  degrees  we  divergisd  from  it. 


164  IHCXDXHTS    OF    VKATBk 

and  after  an  hour's  ascent  came  out  i^xm  die  lake^ 
rode  a  short  distance  upon  the  brink,  with  another  ia^ 
mense  mountain  range  before  us,  and  breaking  o^«r  thi 
top  the  cataract  which  I  had  seen  from  the  oftno% 
Very  soon  we  eommeneed  ascending ;  the  path  ran  zig^ 
2Bg,  commanding  alternately  a  view  of  the  plain  and 
of  the  lake»  The  ascent  was  terrible  for  loaded  muLasi 
being  in  some  places  steps  cut  in  the  stone  like  a  regoh 
lar  staircase*  Every  time  we  came  iqpon  the  lake  tbeva 
Mras  a  different  view.  At  four  o'clock,  looking  baek 
over  the  high  ranges  of  mountains  we  had  crossed,  w^ 
saw  the  great  volcanoes  of  Agua  and  Foego.  Sift 
volcanoes  were  in  sight  at  once,  four  of  them  abov# 
ten  thousand,  and  two  nearly  fifteen  thousand  feet  hi|^ 
Looking  down  upon  the  lake  we  saw  a  canoe,  so  small 
as  to  present  a  mere  speck  on  the  water,  and,  as  wtf 
supposed,  it  was  sent  for  us  by  our  friend  Don  Saturai* 
no.  Four  days  afterward,  after  diverging  and  return* 
ing  to  the  main  road,  I  found  a  letter  from  him,  direct- 
ed to  <'  El  Ministro  de  Nueva-York,."  stating  that  b* 
found  the  road  so  terrible  that  night  overtook  him,  andl 
he  was  obliged  to  stop  three  leagues  short  of  Atitlaik. 
On  arriving  at  that  place  he  learned  that  the  canoe  wa» 
on  his  side  of  the  lake,  but  the  boatmen  would  not 
cross  till  the  afternoon  wind  sprang  up.  The  letter 
was  written  after  the  return  of  the  canoe,  and  sent 
by  courier  two  days'  journey,  begging  us  to  retunsyt 
and  offering  as  a  bribe  a  noble  mule,  which,  in  our 
bantering  on  the  road,  he  affirmed  was  better  thair 
my  macho.  Twice  the  mule-track  led  us  almost  with- 
in the  fall  of  cataracts,  and  the  last  time  we  cam^ 
upon  the  lake  we  looked  down  upon  a  plain  even  mcMre 
beautiful  than  that  of  PanajocheL  Directly  under 
us,  at  an  immense  distance  below,  but  itself  elevated 


•i 


80L0LA.  16ft 

fifteen  hvndred  or  two  thonsaiid  feet,  was  a  village, 
with  its  cborefa  conapicuouB,  and  it  aeemed  aa  if  we 
could  throw  a  stone  down  upon  ks  roof.  From  the 
moment  this  lake  first  opened  upon  us  until  we  left  it, 
our  ride  along  it  presented  a  greater  combination  of 
beauties  than  any  locality  I  eVer  saw.  The  last  ascent 
occupied  an  hour  and  three  quarters*  As  <dd  tiaT^- 
lers,  we  would  have  avoided  it  if  there  had  been  any 
other  road ;  but,  once  ov^,  we  would  not  have  missed  it 
for  the  world.  Very  soon  we  saw  Solola.  In  the  sub- 
urbs drunken  Indians  stood  in  a  line,  and  took  off  their 
old  petates  (straw  hats)  with  both  hands.  It  was  Sun- 
day, and  the  bells  of  the  church  were  ringing  for  ves- 
pers, rockets  were  firing,  and  a  procession,  headed  by 
TioNns,  was  parading  round  the  plaza  the  figure  of  a 
mat  Ob  horseback,  dressed  like  a  harlequin.  Oppo- 
site thetsabildo  the  alcalde,  with  a  crowd  of  Stestitzoes, 
was  fightmg  cocks. 

The  town  stands  on  the  lofty  borders  of  the  Lake  of 
Atitlaut  and  a  hundred  yards  from  it  the  whole  water 
was  visible.  I  tied  my  horse  to  the  whipping-post,  and, 
thanks  to  Caneta's  passport,  tl^  alcalde  sent  off  for  sa- 
cate,  had  a  room  swept  out  in  the  cabildo,  and  offered 
to  send  us  supper  from  his  own  house.  He  was  about 
ten  days  in  office,  having  been  appointed  since  Carrera's 
laat  invasion.  Formerly  this  place  was  the  residence  <rf  <  v^. 
the  youngest  branch  of  the  house  of  the  Kachiquel  In* 
diaaa. 

It  was  oar  purpose  at  this  place  to  send  our  luggage^  ^ 
on  by  the  main  road  to  Totonicapan,  one  day's  journey 
bejrond,  while  we  struck  off  at  an  angle  and  visited  the 
rains  of  Santa  Cruz  del  Qaich6.  The  Indians  of  that 
place,  even  in  the  niost  quiet  times,  bore  a  very  bad 
name,  and  we  were  afraid  of  hearing  anoh  an  account 


•> 


/>• 


160  INCIDENTS    OF    TRATKL. 

c-f  them  a8  would  make  it  impossible  to  go  there, 
era  had  left  a  garrison  of  soldiers  in  Solola,  and 
ealled  upon  the  commandant,  a  gentlemanly  man, 
pected  of  disaffection  to  Carrara's  govemmenti 
therefore  particularly  desirous  to  pay  respect  to  his 
port,  who  told  me  that  there  had  been  less  excitemeaf 
at  that  place  than  in  some  of  the  other  villages,  aatf 
promised  to  send  the  luggage  on  under  safe  escort  to  the 
corregidor  of  Totonicapan,  and  give  us  a  letter  to  hkr 
oommissionado  in  Santa  Cruz  del  Quiche. 

On  our  return  we  learned  that  a  lady  had  sent  for  m^ 
Her  house  was  on  the  corner  of  the  plaza.  She  was  tf 
chapetone  from  Old  Spain,  which  country  she  had  left 
with  her  husband  thirty  years  before,  on  account  of  wura; 
At  the  time  of  Carrera's  last  invasion  her  son  was  alcaMU 
mAyor,  and  fled.  If  he  had  been  taken  he  would  ha^ 
been  shoL  The  wife  of  her  son  wsb  with  her.  They 
had  not  heard  from  him,  but  he  had  fled  toward  MeS* 
ico,  and  they  supposed  him  to  be  in  the  frontier  town, 
and  wished  us  to  carry  letters  to  him,  and  to  inform  hull 
of  their  condition.  Their  house  had  been  plundered| 
and  they  were  in  great  distress.  It  was  another  of  the 
instances  we  were  constantly  meeting  of  the  effects  of 
civil  war.  They  insisted  on  our  remaining  at  the  house 
all  night,  which,  besides  that  they  were  interesting, 
were  not  loth  to  do  on  our  own  account.  The  pli 
was  several  thousand  feet  higher  than  where  we  dqil 
the  night  before,  and  the  temperature  cold  and  vrintrf 
by  oomparison.  Hammocks,  our  only  beds,  were  not 
used  at  all.  There  were  not  even  supporters  in  the 
cabildo  to  hang  them  on.  The  next  morning  the  mtdei 
were  all  drawn  up  by  the  cold,  their  coats  were  rougkf 
and  my  poor  horse  was  so  chilled  that  he  could  haidly 
move.    In  coming  in  he  had  attracted  attention,  and  the 


I 


BvracT  ov  gold.  167 

cfclcBlde  wanted  to  boy  him.    In  the  morning  he  told  me 

tlaftt,  being  naed  to  a  hot  climate,  the  horse  could  not 

bar  the  jonrney  acroaa  the  Cordilleras,  which  was  con- 

fijrmed  by  several  disinterested  persons  to  whom  he  ap* 

|>^ttled.    I  almost  suspected  him  of  haying  done  the  horse 

some  injnry,  ao  as  to  make  me  leave  him  behind.     How- 

e^ver,  by  moving  him  in  the  sun  his  limbs  relaxed,  and 

vwe  sent  him  off  with  the  men  and  luggage,  and  the 

promised  escort,  to  Totonicapan,  recommended  to  the 

oozregidor. 

At  a  quarter  before  nine  we  bade  farewell  to  the 

ladies  who  had  entertained  us  so  kindly^  and,  charged 

with  letters  and  messages  for  their  son  and  husband, 

set  out  with  Bobon  for  Santa  Cruz  del  Quiche.     At  a 

short  distance  from  the  town  we  again  rose  upon  a 

ridge  which  commanded  a  view  of  the  lake  and  town ; 

the  last,  and,  as  we  thought,  the  loveliest  of  all.     At  a 

leagoe's  distance  we  turned  off  from  the  camino  real  into 

ft  nanrow  bridle-path,  and  very  soon  entered  a  well-cul- 

^vated  plain,  passed  a  forest  clear  of  brush  and  under- 

^*ood,  like  a  forest  at  home,  and  followed  the  course  of 

ft  beautiful  stream.    Again  we  came  out  upon  a  rich 

phis,  and  in  several  places  saw  clusters  of  aloes  in  full 

Uooin»     The  atmosphere  was  transparent,  and,  as  in  an 

ftotuma  day  at  home,  the  sun  was  cheering  and  invig- 

oitting. 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  met  some  Indians,  who  told  ua 
^  Santa  Thomas  was  three  leagues  distant,  and  five 
Qunntes  afterward  we  saw  the  town  apparently  not  more 
tl^  a  mile  off;  but  we  were  arrested  by  another  im- 
iiieiise  ravine.  The  descent  was  by  a  winding  zigzag 
Psth,  part  of  the  way  with  high  walls  on  either  side,  so 
>*K«p  that  we.  were  obliged  to  dismount  and  walk  all 
^  way,  bumtd  on  by  our  <»wn  impetus  and  the  mules 


INCIDSKTS     OF    TKATBL. 

crowding  npon  xm  firom  behind.  At  the  foot  of  the 
vine  was  a  beautiful  stream,  at  which,  choked  witi 
and  perspiration,  we  stopped  to  drink.  We  mxmafl&i, 
to  ford  the  stream,  and  ahnost  immediately  dismomiMl 
again  to  ascend  the  opposite  side  of  the  ravine, 
was  even  more  difficult  than  the  desctat,  and  when 
reached  the  top  it  seemed  good  three  leagues.  We 
passed  on  the  right  another  awful  barranca,  broken  off 
from  the  table  of  land,  and  riding  close  along  its  edgB^ 
looked  down  into  an  abyss  of  two  or  three  thonsaad 
feet,  and  "wry  soon  reached  Santa  Thomas.  A  crowd 
of  Indians  wa^  gathered  in  the  plaza,  well  dressed  <JB 
brown  cloth,  and  with  long  black  hair,  without  hats. 
The  entire  population  was  Indian.  There  was  not  a 
single  white  man  in  the  place,  nor  one  who  could  speak 
Spanish,  except  an  old  Mestitzo,  who  was  the  secrefy 
of  the  alcalde.  We  rode  up  to  the  cabildop  and  tiad 
our  mules  before  the  prison  doer.  Groups  of  irillnncw 
faces  were  fixed  in  the  bars  of  the  windows.  We  osil- 
ed  for  the  alcalde,  presented  Carrera's  passport,  and 
demanded  sacate,  eggs,  and  frigoles  for  ourselves,  and 
a  guide  to  Quiche.  While  these  were  got,  the  alcalda, 
and  as  many  alguazils  as  could  find  a  place,  seated 
themselves  silently  on  a  bench  occupied  by  us.  fa 
front  was  a  new  whipping-post.  There  was  not  a 
spoken ;  but  a  man  was  brought  up  before  it,  his 
and  wrists  tied  together,  and  he  was  drawn  up  by  a 
rope  which  passed  through  a  groove  at  the  top  of  tht 
post.  His  back  was  naked,  and  an  alguazil  stood  oa 
his  left  with  a  heavy  cowhide  whip.  Every  atroka 
made  a  blue  streak,  rising  into  a  ridge,  from  wUali 
the  blood  started  and  trickled  down  his  back.  Th» 
poor  fellow  screamed  in  agony.  After  him  a  boy 
stretched  up  in  the  same  way.    At  the  first  lash, 


'» 


'   WHiPPiiro-PotTs.  IM 

adnadfiil  Mseun,  he  jerked  lus  feet  oat  of  the  ropesi 
mA  seemed  to  fly  up  to  the  top  of  the  post.  He 
was  brought  beck  and  seeoredy  and  whipped  till  ibB 
•ksdde  was  satisfied.  This  was  one  of  the  reforms  in- 
itilated  by  the  Central  govermneiit  of  Gaatimala.  The 
Ubevsl  party  had  abolished  this  remnant  of  barbarity; 
but  within  tbe  last  month,  at  the  wish  of  the  Indians 
Aemsdves,  and  in  pursuance  of  the  general  plan  to  re« 
iloie  old  osages  and  onstoms,  new  whipping-posts  had 
ben  erected  in  all  the  Tillages.  Not  one  of  the  brutal 
beingi  aroond  seemed  to  have  the  least  feeling  for  the 
vietims.  Amimg  the  amatenrs  were  several  criminals, 
ifkm  we  had  noticed  walking  in  chains  about  the  plan, 
tsd  smong  them  a  man  and  woman  in  raga  bareheaded, 
vidi  long  hair  streaming  over  their  eyes.  <shained  togeth- 
vbrthfli  hand  and  foot,  with  strong  bars  between  them 
^  ktsp  flion  out  of  each  other's  leach.  They  were  a 
biriMnd  and  wife,  who  had  shorted  the  moral  sense  of 
tbe  eommnnity  by  not  living  toother.  The  punishment 
leemsd  the  very  refinement  of  cruelty,  but  while  it  hst- 
^  it  was  aa  effectual  way  of  preventing  a  repetition  of 

teoflfence. 

At  half  past  three^  with  an  alguasil  running  before 
^  and  Bobon  trotttag  behind,  we  set  out  again,  and 
ttOMd  a  geutlyroUing  plain,  with  a  distant  side-hill 
^  tbe  left,  haodMimely  wooded,  and  reminding  us  of 
Httes  at  home,  except  that  on  the  left  was  another 
iaiQieiBe  barranca,  with  large  trees,  whose  tops  were 
two  tfiMfand  feet  below  us.  Leaving  a  viUage  on 
lbs  rigkt,  we  passed  a  small  lake,  crossed  a  ravine, 
ad  rose  to  fhe  plain  of  Quiche.  At  a  distance  on 
tl»  left  were  the  ruins  of  the  old  city,  the  once  large 
M  opulent  eapital  of  Utatlan,  the  oourt  of  the  native 
Vol.  IL— Y  15 


■re  INCIDBKTB    or    TBAVBL. 

I  kings  of  Quiche,  and  the  most  sumpiuous  discovered  by 
the  Spaniards  in  this  section  of  America.  It  was  a  r.tv 
worthy  to  be  the  abode  of  a  race  of  a  kings.  We 
passed  between  two  small  lakes,  lode  into  the  village, 
fussed  on,  as  usual,  to  the  convent,  which  stood  beside 
ttie  church,  and  stopped  at  the  foot  of  a  high  Highl  of 
stone  steps.  An  old  Indian  on  the  platform  told  us  lo 
walk  in,  and  we  spurred  our  mules  up  the  steps,  rode 
through  the  corridor  into  a  large  apartment,  end  sent 
the  mules  down  another  flight  of  steps  into  a  yard  en- 
closed by  a  high  stone  fence.  The  convent  was  the 
first  eiseted  in  the  country  by  the  Dominican  friars, 
and  datcA  frora  the  time  of  Alvarado.  It  was  built  en* 
tirely  of  stonn,  with  massive  walls,  and  corridors,  pave- 
ments, and  coBrtyard  strong  enough  for  a  fortress; 
but  raost  of  the  ut^mnents  were  desolate  or  filled  with 
rubbish  ;  one  was  us»d  for  sacate,  another  for  com,  and 
another  fitted  up  as  a  roost  in  g-place  for  fowls.  The 
padre  had  gone  to  anoiht«  village,  his  own  apartmeat* 
were  locked,  and  we  were  qhown  into  one  adjoimng, 
«bout  thirty  feet  square,  and  n<!arly  as  high,  with  stone 
floor  and  walls,  and  without  a  single  article  in  it  except 
■  shattered  and  weather-beaten  soldier  in  one  comer, 
returning  from  campaigns  in  Menclco.  As  we  hiA 
brought  with  us  nothing  but  our  ponchas,  and  the  c^^B 
iu  that  region  were  very  cold,  we  were  unwilling  to  rUfc 
tkeping  on  the  stone  floor,  and  witli  the  padre's  Indian 
servant  went  to  the  alcalde,  who,  on  the  strength  of 
Cariera's  passport,  gave  us  the  audience -room  of  the 
cabildu,  which  had  at  one  end  a  raisMl  plnlforrr.  with  ■ 
railing,  a  tabic,  and  two  long  benches  with  high  b«cka. 
-  Adjoining  was  the  prison,  being  merely  nn  enclosure  at 
four  high  stone  walls,  without  any  roof,  and  filled  with 
more  than  the  usual  number  of  criminals,  some  uf  whofn^ 


•' 


■p 


^1^- 


SANTA     CRUZ     DSL     QUICHE.  171 

•B  ip?e  looked  through  the  gratings,  we  saw  lying  on  the 
groundi  with  only  a  few  rags  of  covering,  shivering  in 
the  cold.  The  alcalde  provided  us  with  supper,  and 
proimsed  to  procure  us  a  guide  to  the  ruins. 

Early  in  the  morning,  with  a  Mestitzo  armed  with  a 
long  basket-hilted  sword,  who  advised  us  to  carry  our 
weapons,  as  the  people  were  not  to  be  trusted,  we  set 
oat  for  the  ruins.     At  a  short  distance  we  passed  an- 
other immense  barranca,  down  which,  but  a  few  nights 
before,  an  Indian,  chased  by  alguazils,  either  fell  or 
direw  himself  off  into  the  abyss,  fifteen  hundred  feet 
A     deep,  and  was  dashed  to  pieces.     At  about  a  mile  from 
I'     the  village  we  came  to  a  range  of  elevations,  extending 
.'      to  a  great  distance,  and  connected  by  a  ditch,  which 
liad  evidently  formed  the  line  of  fortifications  for  the 
mined  city.     They  consisted  of  the  remains  of  stone 
^^■lliildings,  probably  towers,  the  stones  well  cut  and  laid 
altogether,  and  the  mass  of  rubbish  around  abounded  in 
It  arrow-heads.     Within  this  line  was  an  elevation, 
^jilich  grew  more  imposing  as  we  approached,  square, 
terraces,  and  having  in  the  centre  a  tower,  in  all 
hundred  and  twenty  feet  high.     We  ascended  by 
to  three  ranges  of  terraces,  and  on  the  top  enter- 
an  area  enclosed  by  stone  walls,  and  covered  with 
vird  cement,  in  many  places  still  perfect.     Thence  we 
l^teended  by  stone  steps  to  the  top  of  the  tower,  the 
[.  •fcde  <rf  which  was  formerly  covered  with  stucco,  and 
'^toodaa  a  fortress  at  the  entrance  of  the  great  city  of 
'^    vtatlan,  the  capital  of  the  kingdom  of  the  Quiche  In- 


According  to  Fuentes,  the  chronicler  of  the  king- 
dom of  Guatimala,  the  kings  of  Quiche  and  Kachiquel 
v^e  descended  from  the  Toltecan  Indians,  who,  when 
tkej  came  into  this  country,  found  it  already  inhab- 


4 

^ 


1,^ 


<i- 


'  *• 


ItTOKT    OF    THB    QOlCSis.  173 


die  monarchy  rose  to  a  high  degree  of  splendour.  To 
relieve  himself  from  some  (tf  the  fatigues  of  administra- 
tion, he  appointed  thirteen  captains  or  governors,  and  at 
tveiy  advanced  age  divided  his  empire  into  three  king- 
dmns,  vis.,  the  Quich6,  the  Kachiqnel,  and  the  Zutugil, 
retaining  the  first  loft  himself,  and  giving  the  second  to 
Us  eldest  son  Jintemal,  and  the  third  to  his  yonngest 
son  Acxigual.  This  division  was  made  on  a  day  when 
three  suns  were  visible  at  the  same  time,  which  extrap 
I  ordinary  circumstance,  says  the  manuscript,  has  induced 

^ffle  porsons  to  believe  that  it  was  made  on  the  day  of 
I        ^Qr  Saviour's  birth.    There  were  seventeen  Toltecan 
^iap  who  reigned  in  Utatlan,  the  capital  of  Quich6, 
^"lioee  names  have  come  down  to  posterity,  but  they  are 
*o  hard  to  write  out  that  I  will  take  it  for  granted  the 
''^^ader  is  familiar  with  them. 

Their  histcvy,  like  that  of  man  in  other  parts  of  the 

^carid,  is  one  of  war  and  bloodshed.     Before  the  death 

\     •^""Axcopil  his  sons  were  at  war,  which,  however,  was 

^^.Mcd  by  fads  mediation,  and  for  two  reigns  peace  ex- 

'^^^d.    In  the  reign  of  Balam  Acan,  the  next  king  of 

^.Viich6,  while  living  on  terms  of  great  inthnacy  and 

^"^Wadship  with  his  cousin  Zutugilebpop,  king  of  the 

'^^tugiles,  the  latter  abused  his   generosity   and  ran 

^    ^^^Vaj  with  his  daughter  Ixconsocil ;  and  at  the  same 

Y^^^u  DcNicab,  his  relative  and  favourite,  ran  away  with 

^Oselixpua,  the  niece  of  the  king.     The  rape  of  Helen 

A&d  not  produce  more  wars  and  bloodshed  than  the  car^ 

'yingoff  of  thepe  two  young  ladies  with  unpronounceable 

^i^^mes.     Balam  Acan  was  naturally  a  mild  man,  but 

\        ^  abduction  of  his  daughter  was  an  ai&ont  not  to  be 

K       pardoned.     With  eighty  thousand  veterans,  himself  in 

\        fte  centre  squadron,  adorned  with  three  diadems  and 

ether  regial  ornaments,  carried  in  a  rich  chair  (^  state. 


1T8  IKCIDJINT0    OP    TKATSIm 

ilad  b  J  peo|de  cxf  diffisraiil  mSitiim.     Aidrfotdiig  to 
th«  mannserqrt  of  Don  Jqui  Tomri  the  gmidMMi  of 
the  last  king  of  the  Quiche,  which  was  in  the  pee- 
seesion  of  the  lieutenant-general  appointed  by  Pedio 
de  Alvarado,  and  which   Fuentes   says  be  obtained 
by  means  of  Father  Francis  Vasques,  the  historian 
of  the  order  of  San  Francis,  the  Toltecas  themselves 
descended  from  the  house  of  Israel,  who  were  released 
by  Moses  from  the  tyranny  of  Pharaoh,  and  after  cross- 
ing the  Red  Sea,  fell  into  idolatry.     To  avoid  the  re- 
proofs of  Moses,  or  from  fear  of  his  inflicting  upon  them 
some  chastisement,  they  separated  from  him  and  his 
brethren,  and  under  the  guidance  of  Tanub,  their  chief, 
passed  from  one  continent  to  the  other,  to  a  place  whid 
they  called  the  seven  caverns,  a  part  of  the  kingdom  of 
Mexico,  where  they  founded  the  celebrated  city  of  Tula.  ^ 
From  Tanub  sprang  the  families  of  the  kings  of  Tula 
and  Quich6,  and  the  first  monarch  of  the  Toltecas.     Nt>s| 
maquiche,  the  fifth  king  of  that  line,  and  more  belov«d!iL 
than  any  of  his  predecessors,  was  directed  by  an  oraidb 
to  leave  Tula,  with  his  people,  who  had  by  this  ^xar 
multiplied  greatly,  and  conduct  them  from  the  kingdo■h^ « 
of  Mexico  to  that  of  Guatimala.     In  performing  tk|(^ 
journey  they  consumed  many  years,  suffered  extraord^i^ 
nary  hardships,  and  wandered  over  an  immense  tract  Hit.  ^ 
country,  tuitil  they  discovered  the  Lake  of  AtitlaOi 


resolved  to  settle  near  it  in  a  coimtry  which  they  caltotf  V 
Quich6.  '  * 

Nimaquich6  was  accompanied  by  his  three  brotherSi 
and  it  was  agreed  to  divide  the  new  country  between 
them.  Nimaquich6  died  ;  his  son  Axcopil  became  chief 
of  the  Quiches,  Kachiquels,  and  Zutugiles,  and  was  at 
the  head  of  his  nation  when  they  settled  in  Quich6,  and 
the  first  monarch  who  reigned  in  Utatlan.    Under 


^ 


COJflllG    OF    THB    IFANIABBg.  176 

• 

bj  the  IndianB  of  San  Andres  Xecul,  it  is  related  that 
lAen  Motttezuma  was  made  prisoner,  he  sent  a  priTate 
ndbassador  to  Kicah  Tannb,  to  inform  him  that  some 
wUte  men  had  arrived  in  his  state,  and  made  war  upon 
•kka  with  such  impetuosity  that  the  whole  strength  of  his 
psople  was  unable  to  resist  them ;  that  he  was  himself 
t  ptMner,  surrounded  by  guards ;  and  hearing  it  was 
tin  intention  of  his  invaders  to  pass  on  to  the  kingdom 
of  Qmch6,  he  sent  notice  of  the  design,  in  order  that 
Kicah  Tanub  might  be  prepared  to  oppose  them.  On 
isoeiTing  this  intelligence,  the  King  of  Quich6  sent  for 
Ahv  young  diviners,  whom  he  ordered  to  tell  him  what 
vonld  be  the  result  of  this  invasion.  They  requested 
tine  to  give  their  answers ;  and,  taking  their  bows,  dis* 
disiged  some  arrows  against  a  rock ;  but,  seeing  that 
BO  impression  was  made  upon  it,  returned  very  sorrow- 
faUy,  and  told  the  king  there  was  no  way  of  avoiding 
As  disaster ;  the  white  men  would  certainly  conquer 
%nu  Kicah,  dissatisfied,  sent  for  the  priests,  desiring 
to  haje  their  opinions  on  this  important  subject ;  and 
they,  from  the  ominous  circumstance  of  a  certain  stone, 
brought  by  their  forefathers  from  Egypt,  having  sud« 
daily  split  into  two,  predicted  the  inevitable  ruin  of  the 
kingdom.  At  this  time  he  received  intelligence  of  the 
ttnral  of  the  Spaniards  on  the  borders  of  Soconuseo 
to^invade  his  territory ;  but,  undismayed  by  the  auguries 
9t  dinners  or  priests,  he  prepared  for  war.  Messages 
^^  sent  by  him  to  the  conquered  kings  and  chiefs 
Under  Ins  command,  urging  them  to  co-operate  for  the 
^^Kumon  defence ;  but,  glad  of  an  opportunity  to  rebel, 
Biittcam,  the  king  of  Guatimala,  declared  openly  that  he 
^  a  friend  to  the  Teules  or  Gods,  as  the  Spaniards 
Were  called  by  the  Indians ;  and  the  King  of  the  Zutu- 
Silea  answered  haughtily  that  he  was  able  to  defend 


.^. 


1T6  ENCXOBIITB    OF    TRATSX* 

his  kingdom  alone  against  a  more  nmnerous  and  laip 
famished  army  than  that  which  was  approaching  Quidfi^ 
Irritation,  wounded  pride,  anxiety,  and  fatigue,  bros^lff 
on  a  sickness  which  carried  Tanub  off  in  a  few  dajVk,  -:. 
His  son  Tecum  Umam  succeeded  to  his  honours  hJ 
troubles.  In  a  short  time  intelligence  was  received  lh0 
the  captain  ( Alvarado)  and  hi»  Teules  had  marched  in 
besiege  Xelahuh  (now  Quezaltenango),  next  to  the  o^ 
ital  the  largest  city  of  Quiche.  At  that  time  it  hii|^ 
within  its  walls  eighty  thousand  men ;  but  such  was  t^ 
fame  of  the  Spaniards  that  Tecum  Umam  determined  Uf 
go  to  its  assistance.  He  left  the  capital,  at  the  threshold 
of  which  we  stood^  borne  in  his  litter  on  the  shoulder  oC 
the  principal  men  of  his  kingdom,  and  preceded  by  ik§ 
music  of  flutes,  cornets,  and  drums,  and  sereaty  thousaod! 
men,  commanded  by  his  general  Ahzob,  2iis  lieutenant 
Ahzumanche,  the  grand  shield-bearer  Ahpocob,  otlMT 
officers  of  dignity  with  still  harder  names,  and  numerow 
attendants  bearing  parasols  and  fans  of  feathers  for  t|M- 
comfort  of  the  royal  person.  An  immense  number  oC 
Indian  carriers  followed  with  baggage  and  provisions. 
At  the  populous  city  of  Totonicapaii  the  army  was  in« 
creased  to  ninety  thousand  fighting  men.  At  Quenl* 
tenango  he  was  joined  by  ten  more  chiefs,  well  armed 
and  supplied  with  provisions^  displaying  all  the  gov* 
geoiis  insignia  of  their  rank,  and  attended  by  twenty- 
tour  thousand  soldiers.  At  the  same  place  he  was  re-eo^ 
forced  by  forty-six  thousand  more,  adorned  with  plumM 
of  different  colours,  and  with  arms  of  every  descriptioiir 
the  chiefs  decorated  with  the  skins  of  lions,  tigers,  and 
bears,  as  distinguishing  marks  of  their  bravery  and  war- 
like prowess.  Tecum  Umam  marshalled  under  his  ban- 
ners on  the  plain  of  Tzaceapa  two  hundred  and  thirty 
thousand  warriors,  and  fortified  his  camp  with  a  wall 


OTBBTBmOW    av    TBI    VATIYKg.  Iff 

filoow  tfones,  endofling  within  its  circuit  seTeial 

In  the  camp  were  seTeral  military  ma^ 
ii  toftmed  at  beams  on  rollers,  to  be  moved  from 
fhee  to  pkice.  After  a  series  of  desperate  and  bloody 
Miflet,  the  Spaniards  routed  this  immense  army,  and 
Meied  the  city  of  Xelahuh.  The  fugitives  rallied  out- 
iUe,  and  made  a  last  effort  to  surround  and  crush  the 
Spaniards.  Tecum  Umam  commanded  in  person,  sin- 
flM  cot  Alvarado,  attacked  him  three  times  hand  to 
Ittd,  and  wounded  his  horse ;  but  the  last  time  Alva- 
lido  pierced  him  with  a  lance,  and  killed  him  on  the 
^Mt  The  fury  of  the  Indians  increased  to  madness ; 
it  immense  masses  they  rushed  upon  the  Spaniards ; 
aad^  seizing  the  tails  of  the  horses,  endeavoured  by  main 
tees  to  bring  horse  and  rider  to  the  ground ;  but,  at  a 
critical  moment,  the  Spaniards  attacked  in  close  column, 
lifte  the  solid  masses  of  the  Quiches,  routed  the  whole 
ttmy,  and  slaying  an  immense  number,  became  com- 
idflMy  masters  of  the  field.  But  few  of  the  seventy 
thoQsand  who  marched  out  firom  the  capital  with  Te- 
^iQa  Umam  ever  returned ;  and,  hopeless  of  being  able 
^  lesist  any  longer  by  force,  they  had  recourse  to 
^Xiehery.  At  a  council  of  war  called  at  Utatlan  by 
the  king,  Chinanivalut,  son  and  successor  of  Tecum 
Vmun,  it  was  determined  to  send  an  embassy  to  Alva* 
>^,  with  a  valuable  present  of  gold,  suing  for  par- 
^,  promising  submission,  and  inviting  the  Spaniards 
^  the  capital.  In  a  few  days  Alvarado,  with  his  army, 
^  bigh  spirits  at  the  prospect  of  a  termination  of  this 
bloody  war,  encamped  upon  the  plain. 

This  was  the  first  appearance  of  strangers  at  Utatlan, 

^  eapital  of  the  great  Indian  kingdom,  the  ruins  of 

^Udi  were  now  under  our  eyes,  once  the  most  popu- 

^  and  opnlfant  city,  not  only  of  Quiclift,  but  of  tte 

Vol,  n— Z 


ITS  IirclDBHTS     OF    TBATBtn 

hed  by  people   of  different  natioiB.     Aoootding  ta 

the  manuscript  of  Don  Jusn  Torm,  the  grandsoa  of 
the  last  king  of  the  Quichto,  which  was  in  the  po^ 
session  of  the  lieutenant-general  appointed  by  Pedn 
de  Alvatado,  and  which  Fuentea   says  he  obMined 
by  means  of  Father  Francis  Vasques,  the  historian 
of  the  order  of  San  Franeis,  the  ToUecas  themselvea 
descended  from  the  house  of  Israel,  who  were  released 
by  Moses  from  the  tyranny  of  Pharaoh,  and  after  crooi- 
ing  the  Red  Sea,  fell  into  idolatry.     To  avoid  the  re- 
proofs of  Moaes,  or  from  fear  of  his  inflicting  upon  them 
some  chastisement,  they  separated  from  him  and  his 
brethren,  and  under  the  guidance  of  Tanub,  their  chief, 
passed  from  one  continent  to  the  other,  to  a  place  whieh 
they  called  the  seven  caverns,  a  part  of  the  kingdom  of 
Mexico,  where  they  founded  the  celebrated  city  of  Tula. 
From  Tanub  sprang  the  families  of  the  kings  of  Tula 
and  Quiche,  and  the  first  monatcb  of  the  ToUecas.     Vi- . 
maquicbe,  the  fifth  king  of  that  line,  and  more  beloved  ^ 
than  any  of  his  predecessors,  was  directed  by  an  oraefo 
to  leave  Tula,  with  his  people,  who  had  by  this  time    ' 
multiplied  greatly,  and  conduct  them  from  the  kingdom  .  ,. 
of  Mexico  to  that  of  Guatimala.     In  performing  ths,^ 
journey  they  consumed  many  years,  suffered  eitraordi-i-^- 
nary  hardships,  and  wandered  over  an  immense  tract  at 
country,  until  they  discovered  the  Lake  of  Atitlen,  aal^S 
resolved  to  settle  near  it  in  a  coimtry  which  th^  oaUet  -.= 
Quiehfi,  ■'^ 

NinnqDiab6  was  acocnnpanied  by  bis  three  brpttart,  « 
and  it  wai  agreed  to  divide  the  new  country  betwedk-.^ 
litem.  NimequichA  died ;  his  son  Axcoptl  becsine  ohi^  "^ 
of  the  Qviohfe,  Kachv:]QeIa,  and  Zntngjies,  and  wn  Ht^ 
the  head  tii  his  nation  when  they  settled  in  Qnichi,  ufttf 
tfl9  4nit  aoBBrch  who  feigned  in  Utfttlaa.    Vadei^Ubi* 


BISTORT    or    THE    QOlCHis.  17S 

the  monarchy  rose  to  a  high  degree  of  splendour.  To 
relieve  himself  from  some  <tf  the  fatigues  of  administra- 
tion, he  appointed  thirteen  captains  or  governors,  and  at 
a  very  advanced  age  divided  his  empire  into  three  king- 
doms, vis.,  the  Quich6,  the  Kachiqnel,  and  the  Zutugil, 
retaining  the  first  for  himself,  and  giving  the  second  to 
his  eldest  son  Jintemal,  and  the  third  to  his  yonngest 
son  Acxigual.  This  division  was  made  on  a  day  when 
three  suns  were  visible  at  the  same  time,  which  extras 
ordinary  eircumstance,  says  the  manuscript,  has  induced 
some  persons  to  believe  that  it  was  made  on  the  day  of 
our  Saviour's  birth.  There  were  seventeen  Toltecan 
kings  who  reigned  in  Utatlan,  the  capital  of  Quich6, 
whose  names  have  come  down  to  posterity,  but  they  are 
so  hard  to  write  out  that  I  will  take  it  for  granted  the 
reader  is  familiar  with  them. 

Their  history,  like  that  of  man  in  other  parts  of  the 
world,  is  one  of  war  and  bloodshed.     Before  the  death 
of  Axcopil  his  sons  were  at  war,  which,  however,  was 
settled  by  his  mediation,  and  for  two  reigns  peace  ex- 
isted.    In  the  reign  of  Balam  Acan,  the  next  king  of 
^uich6,  while  living  on  terms  of  great  inthnacy  and 
firiendship  with  his  cousin  Zutugilebpop,  king  of  the 
Cotugiles,  the  latter  abused  his   generosity   and  ran 
•way  with  his  daughter  Ixconsocil;  and  at  the  same 
time  Iloacab,  his  relative  and  favourite,  ran  away  with 
^Gselixpna,  the  niece  of  the  king.     The  rape  of  Helen 
^Bd  not  produce  more  wars  and  bloodshed  than  the  car- 
rying oif  of  thepe  two  young  ladies  with  unpronounceable 
blames.     Balam  Acan  was  naturally  a  mild  man,  but 
'^he  abduction  of  his  daughter  was  an  affront  not  to  be 
^aardoned.    With  eighty  thousand  veterans,  himself  in 
*^e  centre  squadron,  adorned  with  three  diadems  and 
^itbar  regpi  ornaments,  carried  in  a  rich  chair  ot  stale^ 


I 

I 

I- 

k 


ITS 


tirctPXNTS     OF     TBA 


ited  by  people  of  difTeTent  nalions.  Accc 
the  manuscript  of  Son  Juan  Torres,  the  grondi 
the  last  king  of  the  Quichfes,  which  was  in  the  ] 
session  of  the  lieutenant  •general  appointed  by  ] 
de  Alvurado,  and  which  Fuentes  says  he  obtained 
by  means  of  Father  Francis  Vasquss,  the  historian 
of  the  order  of  San  Frnnois,  the  Tollecas  ihemselsM 
deecended  from  the  house  of  Israel,  who  were  released 
by  Moses  from  the  tyranny  of  Pharaoh,  and  after  eross- 
ing  the  Red  Sen,  fell  into  idolatry.  To  avoid  the  re- 
proofs of  Moses,  or  from  fear  of  his  inflicting  upon  them 
some  chastisement,  they  separated  from  him  and  tab 
brethren,  and  under  the  guidance  of  Taimb,  tbelr  chief, 
passed  from  one  continent  to  the  other,  to  a  place  whidi 
they  called  the  seven  caverns,  a  part  of  the  kingdom  of 
Mexico,  where  they  founded  the  celebrated  city  of  Tulft. 
From  Tanub  sprang  the  families  of  the  kings  of  Tols 
and  Quiche,  and  the  first  monarch  of  the  Toltecas.  I^ 
maquiche,  the  fifth  king  of  that  line,  and  more  beloved 
than  any  of  his  predecessors,  was  directed  by  an  orade 
to  leave  Tula,  with  his  people,  who  had  by  this  t 
multiplied  greatly,  and  conduct  them  from  the  kinfll 
of  Mexico  to  that  of  Guatimala.  In  performing! 
journey  tbey  consumed  many  years,  suffered  extM 
nary  hardships,  and  wandered  over  an  immense  t 
country,  imlil  they  discovered  the  Lakeof  Atit] 
resolved  to  settle  near  it  in  a  coiuilry  which  th^  4 
Quiche. 

Nimaquich^  was  accompanied  by  hia  three  I 
and  il  was  agreed  to  divide  ihe  new  country  betweSt^" 
tbem.     Nimaquich6  died  ;  his  son  Axcopil  became  ohieT 
of  Ihe  Quiches,  Knchiquels,  and  Zutiigiles,  and  was  at 
the  head  of  his  nation  when  they  settled  in  Quiche,  an& 
Uw.  first  930Jiarch  who  reigned  in  Utatlati.    Coder  bfa» 


OB*  way  dovm;  by  d^rees  his  laugh  became  infeo- 
tioDB,  and  when  we  met  we  all  langhed  together.  All 
ttonoe  be  stopped,  looked  very  aolemn,  palled  off  hia 
BMkoloth,  and  wiped  the  perspiration  from  hia  fivse, 
took  out  a  paper  of  ciggra,  laughed,  throat  them  baok, 
pvbd  out  another,  aa  he  said,  of  Habaneraa,  and  asked 
vhal  waa  the  newa  from  l^aein. 

Om  friend'a  dresa  was  as  nnolerical  as  his  manner, 
li^  a  broad-brimmed  black  glased  hat,  an  old  black 
wt  reaoking  to  his  heels,  glossy  from  long  use,  and 
pntaloons  to  match ;  a  striped  roundabout,  a  waistcoat, 
faael  ahirt,  and  under  it  a  cotton  one,  perhaps  wash- 
ed when  he  shaved  last,  some  weeks  before.  He 
kv^ed  at  our  coming  to  see  the  ruins,  and  said  that 
kskugliadpirodigiouBly  himself  when  he  first  saw  them. 
Biwaa  from  Old  Spain;  had  seen  the  battle  of  TralGrf- 
giii  looking^  on  from  the  heights  on  shore,  and  laired 
litiagveg  he  thought  of  it ;  the  French  fleet  war  blown 
^  Ugh,  and  the  Spanish  went  with  it ;  Loyd  Nelson 
^•Kkilledr--«U  for  glory — he  could  not  h^p  laughing. 
Ibhid  leflt  Spain  to  get  rid  of  wars  a<kd  revolutions : 
kve  we  all  langhed ;  sailed  vrith  twenty  Dominican 
^m;  WB8  ftred.  upon  aiid  chased  into  Jamaica  by  a 
haoch  emiaer :  herie  we  langhsd  again ;  got  an  Eng- 
l*k  ooovoy  to  Qmoa,  where  he  arrived  at  the  breaking 
<^of  a  tevcriution;  had  Been  all  his  life  in  the  midst 
of  fevoIutkMQS,  and  it  wsia  now  better  than  ever.  Here 
^  all  laughed  incontinently.  His  own  laugh  was  so 
^  and  eszpreasvra  that  it  was  perfectly  irresistible. 
ItfttttyWe  wev  not  disposed  to  resist,  and  in  half  an 
^  we  were  as  intimate  aa  if  acquainted  for  years. 
^  werid^waa  our  butt,  and  we  langhed  at  it  outra- 
pnSj/  Except  the  Church,  there  were  few  things 
^kiblithe.4ina<ydnotlan|^at;  but  politksswas  his  ft- 

16 


L 


18S  INCIDBIfTl    (kW    TRATBL. 

vourite  subject.  He  was  in  &TOur  of  Morasui,  or  Gbt- 
rera,  or  el  Demonio :  **  vamos  adelante,''  *'  go  ahead/* 
was  his  motto;  he  langhed  at  them  all.  Ifwehadpaited 
with  him  then,  we  should  always  have  remembered  Ufll 
as  the  laughing  cura ;  but,  on  farther  acquaintance,  wi 
found  in  him  snoh  a  vein  of  strong  sense  and  knoM* 
edge,  and,  retired  as  he  lived,  he  was  so  intimatelj-M^ 
quainted  with  the  country  and  all  the  publie  men,  as  a 
mere  looker  on  his  views  were  so  correct  and  his  aaliii 
'so  keen,  yet  without  malice,  that  we  improved  his  tilla 
by  calling  him  the  laughing  philosopher. 

Having  finished  our  observations  at  this  place,  atopM 
ping  to  laugh  as  some  new  greatness  or  foUj  lof  tkii 
world,  past,  present,  or  to  come,  occurred  to  i»y  iMS 
descended  by  a  narrow  path,  crossed  a  ravine,  waaA 
entered  upon  the  table  of  land  on  which  stood  1U 
pftWe  and  principal  part  of  the  city.  Mr.  Cathci^ 
wood  and  I  began  examining  and  measuring  the  minsi 
and  the  {^adre  followed  us,  talking  and  lan^ng  all  the 
time ;  and  >rhen  we  were  on  some  high  place,  out  of 
his  reach,  he  seated  Bobon  nt  the  foot,  discoursing  t»> 
him  of  Alvarado,  imd  Montezuma,  and  the  daughter  of 
the  King  of  Teepari  GKiatimala,  and  books  and  manv* 
scripts  in  the  convent ;  to  all  which  Bobon  listened  with- 
out comprehending  a  word  or  moving  a  muscle,  looking 
him  directly  in  the  face,  and  answering  his  long  low 
laugh  with  a  respectful  "  Si,  seCor.'' 

The  plan  in  the  division  of  the  latt  engraving  marked 
A,  represents  the  topography  of  the  ground  in  the  heart 
of  the  city  which  was  occupied  by  the  pulace  and  other 
buildings  of  the  royal  house  of  Quich6.  h  is  surround- 
ed  by  an  immense  barranca  or  ravine,  and  Uv^  only  en- 
trance is  through  that  part  of  the  ravine  by  which  wa 
reached  it,  and  which  is  defended  by  the  fortress  bdiaia 


r    • 


■5s 

PALAQ»   or    TBI  *qVI€Bi     K11I08.  Iflft 

vefened  lOf  amked  B  in  the  plate.  The  cura  pointed 
cjot  to  M  one  part  of  the  rayine  which,  he  said,  accord- 
mg  to  oiA  mamncripts  formerly  existing  in  the  convent, 
Imt  now  curied  away,  was  artifieial,  and  upon  which 
isrty  thousand  men  had  been  employed  at  one  time. 

The  iHiole  area  was  once  occupied  by  the  palace, 

waimimy,  and  other  buildings  of  the  royal  house  of  Qui- 

dii,  wliieh  now  lie  for  the  most  part  in  confused  and 

thspAoB  masses  of  ruins.     The  palace,  as  the  cura  told 

QB^  with  its  eonrts  and  corridors,  once  covering  the  whole 

diameter,  is  completely  destroyed,  and  the  materials 

tefe  been  carried  away  to  build  the  present  village.    In 

fart,  however,  the  floor  remains  entire,  with  fragments 

of  the  partition  walls,  so  that  the  plan  of  the  apartments 

tei  be  distinctly  made  out.     This  floor  is  of  a  hard  ce- 

imt,  which,  though  year  after  year  washed  by  the 

loods  of  the  rainy  season,  is  hard  and  durable  as  stone. 

Tlie  inner  walls  were  covered  with  plaster  of  a  finer 

^eieriptiiHi,  and  in  corneni  where  there  had  been  less 

ctposare  were  the  remains  of  colours ;  no  doubt  the 

^iiote  interior  had  been  ornamented  with  paintings. 

^  gave  a  strange  sensation  to  walk  the  floor  of  that 

'^(Hifless  pohee,  and  think  of  that  king  who  left  it  at  the 

'^^  of  seventy  thousand  men  to  repel  the  invaders  of 

QJs  onpire.     Com  was  now  growing  among  the  ruins. 

^lie  gromd  was.  used  by  an  Indian  family  which  claim- 

^4  to  be  ddsoended  £rom  the  royal  house.     In  one  place 

^ta  a  desolate  hut,  occupied  by  them  at  the  time  of 

t^luiiag^and  gathering  the  com.     Adjoining  the  palace 

^^^  a  Itt^ge  plaza  or  courtjrard,  also  covered  with  hard 

^^'^Vifliitj^in'tfae  centre  a!  which  were  the  relics  of  a  fount- 


ThomOst  important  part  remaining  of  these  ruins  is 
^Wt  wUeh  appears  in  the  engraving,  and  which  is  call- 


L 


IW 


IirCIDBMTB     or    TAAtML. 


I 


ed  El  Sacrificetoiio,  or  the  place  of  Bacrific«.  It  M* 
quadrangulai  stone  structure,  sixty-six  fe«t  on  eacli  ai^ 
at  the  base,  and  rising  in  a  pyramidal  iorm  to  the  bsi^h^ 
in  its  present  condition,  of  tbirty-three  feet.  On  thiM 
sides  there  is  a  range  of  steps  in  the  middle,  each  titf 
seventeen  inches  high,  and  but  eight  inches  on  the  i^ 
pet  surface,  which  makes  the  range  so  steep  that  in  dl^ 
scendiug  some  caution  is  necessary.  At  the  coxneraMH 
four  buttresses  of  cut  stone,  diminishing  in  size  from  llw 
line  of  the  square,  and  apparently  intended  to  suppoit 
the  structure.  On  the  aide  facing  the  west  there  are  no 
steps,  but  the  surface  is  smooth  and  covered  with  stuo- 
CO,  gray  from  long  exposure.  By  breaking  a  liitio  sJ 
the  corners  we  saw  that  there  were  different  layers  of 
Stucco,  doubtless  put  on  at  difTerent  time«,  and  ail  htd 
been  ornamented  with  painted  Hgutes.  In  one  plaac  J 
we  made  out  part  of  the  body  of  a  leopard,  well  draw  I 
and  coloured.  ' 

The  top  of  the  Sacrificatorio  is  broken  and  niiiiedi^ 
but  there  is  no  doubt  that  it  once  supported  an  altar  fia^v 
those  sacrifices  of  human  victims  which  struck  even  tb^B 
Spaniards  with  horror.  It  was  barely  large  enough  f<^i* 
ibe  altar  and  officiating  priests,  and  the  idol  to  vrbf^^^ 
the  sacrifice  was  oifered.  The  whole  was  in  full  Ti«&"^ 
of  the  people  at  the  foot. 

The  barbarous  ministers  carried  up  the  victim  entiB'  ^" 
ly  naked,  pointed  out  the  idol  to  which  the  sacrifice  v*^^" 
made,  that  the  people  might  pay  their  adorations,  a^^* 
then  extended  him  upon  the  altar.  Tliis  had  a  coov'^P 
Bur&ce,  and  the  body  of  the  victim  lay  arched,  irJ^" 
the  trunk  elevated  and  the  head  and  feet  depiees^'^' 
Four  priests  held  the  legs  and  arms,  and  ancrtJ*^' 
kept  his  head  firm  with  a  wooden  instrument  made  '" 
the  forni  of  a  ooiled  serpent,  so  that  he  was  pievente<J 


[ted      I 

1^ 


u 


t* 


*i^ 


!^ 


'    BVKAN     BACRtPtCVS. 


I8S 


from  making  the  least  raovemeDt.  The  head  pri«st  then 
approached,  and  with  a  tuiife  made  of  flint  cut  an  sper* 
ture  in  the  breast,  and  tore  out  the  heart,  which,  yet  paU 
pitatittg,  he  oiTered  to  ttie  siio,  and  then  threiv  it  at  the 
fuet  of  the  idol.  If  the  idol  was  gigantic  and  hollow,  it 
was  usual  to  introduce  the  heart  of  the  victim  into  its 
mouth  with  a  golden  Hpoon.  If  the  victim  was  a  prisoner 
of  var,  as  soon  as  be  was  sacrificed  they  cut  off  the  head 
to  preserve  ihe  scull,  and  threw  the  body  down  the  steps, 
when  it  was  taken  up  by  the  officer  or  soldier  lo  whom 
the  prisoner  had  belonged,  and  carried  to  hia  hooae  to 
be  dressed  and  served  up  as  an  entertainment  for  his 
iitiend^.  If  he  was  not  a  prisoner  of  war,  but  a  slave 
I  pm^ascd  for  the  sacriEoe,  the  proprielor  carried  olTihe 
'  body  for  the  same  purpose.  In  recurring  to  the  batba- 
lOUB  Bceuea  of  which  the  spot  had  been  the  ifaestre,  it 
wemed  a  righteous  award  that  the  bloody  altar  wa» 
burled  down,  and  the  race  of  it«  minirtafs  Jestroyed. 

h  was  fonunate  for  us,  in  the  erttcited  ainie  of  iha 
oouDtiy,  that  it  was  not  necesMoy  to  dc«>l«  mneh  Ihne 
to  an  esaminatiou  of  tliea*  mins.  In  1B34  a  ihorcnigh 
ei^loralion  bad  been  tnade  ander  a  coiiuDi?i«ioa  frani 
tbe  government  of  GoatimuU.  Dob  Miguel  Rivera  y 
i  '^'IseMie,  a  gentiemaivdisliiiguished  for  bis  scientific  and 
wuiquariaD  taaie^t  was  tbe  commigaioner,  and  kindiy 
I  furnished  vaa  ifitb  a  copy  of  liia  manuarnpt  report  to 
iLe  prireinmeat,  written  out  by  immtU.  '■^irwipan  b 
iiilland  elaborate,  aud  I  bava  iiodiMbt4aMb*i«al»4rf 
vugb  examuialion,  bat  it  daes>aa»-^ftvlD  uy 
k  of  interest  except  those  I  bave  mcflliofKsd.  He 
U  however,  tlic  image  ot  wbifj]  a  from  and  aide 
►ear  in  the  engraving  npp<jgnte.  and  which, 
t  venturing  to  expreas  a  wish  fot  it,  hp  kiud- 
It  IS  made  of  baked  clay|-«ay  batd^ 


^    BVMAM     SACmiFICBB.  186 

from  making  the  least  movement.  The  head  priest  then 
approached,  and  with  a  knife  made  of  flint  cut  an  aper- 
ture in  the  breast,  and  tore  out  the  heart,  which,  yet  pal- 
pitating, he  offered  to  the  sun,  and  then  threw  it  at  the 
feet  of  the  idol.  If  the  idol  was  gigantic  and  hollow,  it 
was  usual  to  introduce  the  heart  of  the  victim  into  its 
mouth  with  a  golden  spoon.  If  the  victim  was  a  priBoner 
of  war,  as  soon  as  he  was  sacrificed  they  cut  off  the  head 
to  preserve  the  scull,  and  threw  the  body  down  the  steps, 
when  it  was  taken  up  by  the  officer  or  soldier  to  whom 
the  prisoner  had  belonged,  and  carried  to  his  house  to 
be  dressed  and  served  up  as  an  entertainment  for  his 
friends.  If  he  was  not  a  prisoner  of  war,  but  a  slave 
purchased  for  the  sacrifice,  the  proprietor  carried  off  the 
body  for  the  same  purpose.  In  recurring  to  the  barha- 
foos  scenes  of  which  the  spot  had  been  the  theatre,  it 
•eemed  a  righteous  award  that  the  bloody  ^tar  was 
hurled  down,  and  the  race  of  its  ministers  destroyed. 

It  was  fortunate  for  us,  in  the  excited  state  of  the 
country,  that  it  was  not  necessary  to  devote  much  time 
to  an  examination  of  thea^  ruins.  In  1834  a  thorough 
exploration  had  been  made  under  a  commission  from 
the  government  of  >Cruatimala-  Doh  Miguel  Rivera  y 
Maestre,  a  gentlemaivdistinguished  for  his  scientific  and 
antiquarian  tastei^  was  the  commissioner,  and  kindly 
furnished  me  irith  a  copy  of  his  manuscript  report  to 
the  government,  written  out  by  himself.  This  report  is 
fnU  and  elaborate,  and  I  have  no  doubt  is  the  result  of 
8  thorough  examination,  but  it  docs  not  i^efer  to  any 
objects  of  interest  except  those  I  have  mentioned.  He 
procured,  however,  tlic  image  of  which  a  front  and  side 
view  appear  in  the  engraving  opposite,  and  wfaich^ 
without  my  venturing  to  express  a  wish  for  it,  he  kind*  \y 
ly  gave  to  me.     It  is  made  of  baked  clay,  very  hard»  -^' 

Vol.  n.— a  a 


;?. 


« 

4 


m 


.y 


-HVMAM     SACmiFICBB.  186 

firom  making  the  least  moveinent.  The  head  priest  then 
approached,  and  with  a  knife  made  of  flint  cut  an  aper- 
ture in  the  breast,  and  tore  out  the  heart,  which,  yet  pal- 
pitating, he  offered  to  the  enn,  ^d  then  threw  it  at  the 
feet  of  the  idoL  If  the  idol  was  gigantic  and  hollow,  it 
was  usual  to  introduce  the  heart  of  the  yictim  into  its 
mouth  with  a  golden  spoon.  If  the  victim  was  a  prisoner 
<si  war,  as  soon  as  he  was  sacrificed  they  cut  off  the  head 
to  preserve  the  scull,  and  threw  the  body  down  the  steps, 
when  it  was  taken  up  by  the  officer  or  soldier  to  whom 
the  prisoner  had  belonged,  and  carried  to  his  house  to 
be  dressed  and  served  up  as  an  entertainment  for  his 
£nends.  If  he  was  not  a  prisoner  of  war,  but  a  slave 
1%  j^chased  for  the  sacrifice,  the  proprietor  carried  off  the 
f  body  for  the  same  purpose.  In  recurring  to  the  baibap 
'  itons  scenes  of  which  the  spot  had  been  the  the^cre,  it 
jwemed  a  righteous  award  that  the  bloody  ^Itar  was 
'bnrled  down,  and  the  race  of  its  ministers  destroyed. 

It  was  fortunate  for  us,  in  the  excited  state  of  the 
eountry,  that  it  was  not  necessary  to  devote  much  time 
to  an  examination  of  thea^  ruins.  In  1834  a  thorough 
eaqploration  had  been  made  onder  a  commission  from 
the  government  of  ^uatimalo.  Doh  Miguel  Rivera  y 
Maestre,  a  gentlemaivdistinguished  for  his  scientific  and 
antiquarian  caste?,  was  the  commissioner,  and  kindly 
furnished  me  irith  a  copy  of  his  manuscript  report  to 
the  government,  written  out  by  himself.  This  report  is 
fid)  and  elaborate,  and  I  have  no  doubt  is  the  result  of 
L  c  thorough  examination,  but  it  does  not  i^fer  to  any 
I  dbjects  of  interest  except  those  I  have  mentioned.  He 
^yvocuied,  however,  the  image  of  which  a  front  and  side 
Kview  appear  in  the  engraving  opposite,  and  which^ 
t without  my  venturing  to  express  a  wish  for  it,  he  kind*  \\, 
f  gave  to  me.     It  is  made  of  baked  clay,  very  hard,    ''^ 

Voii.  n.— A  A 


t 


f 


•'  M. 


"^mVUkh     SACmiFICBB. 

from  making  the  least  movement.    The  head  priest  then 

approached,  and  with  a  knife  made  of  flint  cut  an  aper- 

tore  in  the  breast,  and  tore  out  die  heart,  which,  yet  pal- 

ptBting,  he  offered  to  the  snn,  and  then  threw  it  at  the 

fret  of  the  idoL     If  the  idol  was  gigantic  and  hollow,  it 

was  usual  to  introduce  the  heart  of  the  victim  into  its 

iBOuth  with  a  golden  spoon.    If  the  victim  was  a  priBoner 

id  war,  as  soon  as  he  was  sacri&ced  they  cut  off  the  head 

to  preserve  the  scull,  and  threw  the  body  down  the  steps, 

when  it  was  taken  up  by  the  officer  or  soldier  to  whom 

4ha  prisoner  had  belonged,  and  carried  to  his  house  to 

lia  dressed  and  served  up  as  an  entertainment  for  his 

Jpends.     If  he  was  not  a  prisoner  of  war,  but  a  slave 

for  the  sacrifice,  the  proprietor  carried  off  the 

for  the  same  purpose.     In  recurring  to  the  barbae 

scenes  of  which  the  spot  had  been  the  theatre,  it 

iiMied  a  righteous  award  that  the  bloody  «ltar  was 

IJpfled  down,  and  the  race  of  its  ministofs  destroyed. 

\  It  was  fortunate  for  us,  in  the  excited  state  of  the 

•aontry,  that  it  was  not  necessary  to  devote  much  time 

l^an  examination  of  thes^  ruins.    In  1834  a  thorough 

Msloration  had  been  made  under  a  commission  from 

Ike  government  of  Ouatimalo.     Doh  Miguel  Rivera  y 

Haestre,  a  gentleman^distinguished  for  his  scientific  and 

uarian  tastes,  was  the  commissioner,  and  kindly 

ished  zna  irith  a  copy  of  his  manuscript  report  to 

government,  written  out  by  himself.     This  report  is 

and  elaborate,  and  I  have  no  doubt  is  the  result  of 

ough  examination,  but  it  docs  not  i^fer  to  any 

of  interest  except  those  I  have  mentioned.     He 

,  however,  the  image  of  which  a  front  and  side 

appear  in   the   engraving  opposite,  and  wfaich^ 

at  my  venturing  to  express  a  wish  for  it,  he  kind* 

ve  to  me.     It  is  made  of  baked  clay,  very  hard^ 

Vol.  n. — A  a 


iifeinsirTa  op  tbavil. 

sod  the  surface  as  smooth  as  if  coated  with  eD&m«l.  Tt 
is  twelve  inches  high,  and  the  interior  is  hollow,  in- 
cluding tbe  arms  and  legs.  In  his  report  to  the  govern- 
ment, Don  Miguel  calls  it  Cabuabnil,  or  ono  (4  the  dei- 
ties of  the  ancient  inhabitants  of  Quicb6.  I  do  not 
know  upon  what  authority  he  lins  given  it  this  name, 
but  to  me  it  does  not  scera  impiobabh>  thai  hia  Bop- 
position  is  true,  and  that  to  this  earthen  vessel  hotnan 
victims  have  been  offered  in  aaorifice. 

The  heads  in  the  engraving  were  given  me  by  tbe 
cura.  They  are  of  terra  cotta ;  the  lower  one  is  hol- 
low and  the  upper  is  solid,  with  a  polished  Burfaoe. 
They  ere  hard  as  slone,  end  in  workmanship  will  com- 
pare with  images  in  the  same  material  by  artists  of  tlw 
present  day. 

In  our  investigation  of  anliquities  we  considered  thta 
place  imponant  from  the  fact  that  its  history  ia  known 
«nd  its  dale  fcted.  It  was  in  its  greatest  splendonr 
when  Alvarado  conqt»ercd  it.  It  proves  the  eluimolci' 
of  the  buildings  which  the  Indians  of  that  day  coDstrttot* 
«d,  and  in  its  rnins  cotifirms the  gkrwing  accounts  given 
by  Cortez  arid  bis  companions  oC  the  splendour  display- 
ed in  the  edifices  of  Me^tJco,  Th*  point  to  which  we 
directed  our  attention  was  to  discover  some  rvserobkaos 
to  the  ruins  of  Copan  and  Qnirigun;  but  we  did  nM 
find  statues,  or  carved  figures,  or  hievoglyptiics,  nor 
could  we  leant  that  any  had  ever  bceo  found  then:.  Jf 
ihei«  had  been  such  evidences  we  should  hav«  ciHwid- 


ered  these  remains  the  works  of  the  same  r 


■  pe<k 


pte,  but  in  the  absence  of  such  evidences  we  believed 
that  Copan  and  Quirigiia  were  cities  of  another  nee 
and  of  n  much  otd«  date. 

The  padre  tuld  m  that  thirty  years  before,  when  ft* 
JlfU  lOB^^the  palace  was  eutire  to  the  garden.     He  Vlft  ~ 


BISTSOSV    0»   TBI    XITSIAirt.  187 

then  fnthinm  the  palaees  of  Spam,  and  it  seemed  •■ 
if  he  wee  again  amcmg  them.  Shortly  after  hia  arrival 
a  email  gold  image  was  fomid  and  sent  to  Beravia,  the 
pieaidBBt  of  Gnatimala,  who  ordered  a  oommiaBion 
firom  the  oapital  to  search  for  hidden  treaaure.  In  this 
aeardi  the  palace  waa  destroyed ;  the  Indians,  roused 
by  the  destmotion  of  their  aneient  capital,  tosCi  and 
threatened  to  kiU  the  workmen  nnless  they  left  the  conn- 
try ;  and  bat  for  this,  the  cnra  said,  every  stone  would 
have  been  raned  to  the  groond.  The  Indiana  of  Qnich* 
have  at  aU  times  a  bad  name ;  at  Onatimala  it  vras  at- 
ways  apdkea  of  as  an  onsale  place  to  virit ;  andthepadre 
^  toM  OS  that  tfiey  looked  vrith  dirtmst  upon  any  stranger 
k.  eoming  to  the  ruins.  At  that  moment  they  were  in  a 
if^  %latie  of  univeraal  exdtonent ;  and  oonung  dose  to  us, 
Ib^.siid^at  in  the  village  they  stood  at  sworcb'  points 
^.  .  vridi  the  Mestitxoes,  ready  to  cot  their  throats,  and  with 
all  his  ezertiona  he  could  barely  keep  down  a  general 
riaing  and  massacre.  Even  this  information  he  gave  ua 
vrith  a  laugh.  We  asked  him  if  he  had  no  leara  for 
himselL  He  said  no ;  that  he  was  beloved  by  the  Ii^ 
dians ;  he  had  passed  the  greater  part  of  his  life  among 
them ;  and  as  yet  the  padrea  were  safe :  the  Tndiawa 
eonsidered  them  almost  as  saints.  Here  he  laughed. 
Canera  was  on  their  side ;  but  if  he  turned  against  them 
k  vrould  be  time  to  fly.  This  vras  ccxnmnnicated  and 
lecdved  vrith  peak  of  laughter ;  and  the  more  serious 
ihe  subject,  the  louder  was  our  cachinnation.  And  all 
fthe  time  the  padre  made  continual  reference  to  books 
^nd  manuscripts,  showing  antiquarian  studies  and  pro- 
loond  knowledge. 

Under  one  of  the  buildings  was  an  opening  which 
Jbe  Indians  called  a  cave,  and  by  which  they  said  ono-^ 
,  fppiild  reach  Mexico  in  an  bour»    I  crawled  under*  and 


,y 


M« 


fount!  a  pomted-arcfa  roof  formed  by  stoiwa  I 
over  each  other,  but  waa  prevented  exploritig  it  bfif, 
wEuil  of  light,  and  the  padre's  crying  to  me  that  it  inm 
the  seasou  of  earthquakes;  and  he  laughed  more  liM^ 
usual  at  the  hurry  with  which  I  came  out ;  but  oU  wf, 
once  he  stopped,  find  grasping  his  paiilaioons,  hopped 
about,  crying,  "a  snttke,  a  snake."  The  guide  an^ 
Bobon  hurried  to  his  relief;  and  by  a  simple  prooon^ 
but  with  greiil  respect,  one  at  work  on  each  side,  w<n 
in  II  fuir  way  of  securing  tbc  intruder ;  but  the  padoB 
oould  not  stand  still,  and  with  hia  agitation  and  restlnv 
ncsii  toTii  loose  £rom  their  hold,  and  brought  to  light  • 
1^8<!  graavhopper.  While  Sobon  and  (he  gtiidc,  widt- 
out  a  smile,  restored  him,  and  put  each  button  in  j|> 
place,  we  finished  with  a  lougb  outrageous  to  the  moni 
ory  of  the  departed  inhabitants,  aiid  to  all  in  iHmiHW 
comiected  with  ihe  ruins  of  a  great  city.  ^. 

As  we  returned  to  the  village  the  padre  pointed  iM 
on  the  plain  the  direction  of  four  roadii,  which  led,  oaA 
whicli,  a«cordin,T  to  hirn,  aie  still  open,  to  Mexico,  X«a> 


'St 


IVT9EIOE    or    ▲    COVTBMT. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

PMyw  in  tb»  QoiohA  Langoage.— Nnmaralt  in  tha  mm.  ^Church  of  Quich^ 
liirtwn  Sapantitiani.— Another  lost  Cit7.~TSeiTft  de  GTiern.— The  Abori- 
giMli.«-TlMir  CoDTtniOB  to  Christiuiity.—Thajr  wan  navtr  conqnaiadH-A 
.  .Mviif  Gttf.— Indian  Tradition  laapaetinf  thia  Cit^— Pzobahlj  haa  navar  baan 
viailad  by  tba  Whites.— Praaania  a  noble  Field  for  fbtore  Enterpriae.— Depar- 
tna^San  Padro.— Viitoo  of  a  Paaiport.— A  diflicalt  Aaoent— Monrtain 
8eaDa17.r-T0iflnicapan.~An  aawallant  Dinnar.~A  Coontij  of  Aloaa^— ^  Bam 
of  Blood."— Anival  at  Qoeialtenango. 

It  was  late  when  we  returned  to  the  convent.  The 
good  padre  regretted  not  being  at  home  when  we  arri- 
^U|  and  said  that  he  always  locked  his  room  to  prevent 
dio  women  throwing  things  into  confusion.  When  we 
fliktered  it  was  m  what  he  called  order,  but  this  order  was 
of  a  class  that  be^ars  description.  The  room  contain* 
M  a  table,  chairs,  and  two  settees,  but  there  was  not  a 
vacant  place  even  on  the  table  to  sit  down  or  to  lay  a 
Int  upon.  Every  spot  was  encumbered  with  articles, 
of  which  four  bottles,  a  cruet  of  mustard  and  another  of 
oil,  bones,  cups,  plates,  sauce-boat,  a  large  lump  of  su- 
gar, a  paper  of  salt,  minerals  and  large  stones,  shells, 
pieces  of  pottery,  sculls,  bones,  cheese,  books,  and  man- 
OBcripts  formed  part.  On  a  shelf  over  his  bed  were  two 
stuffed  quezales,  the  royal  bird  of  Quich6,  the  most 
beautiful  that  flies,  so  proud  of  its  tail  that  it  builds  its 
nest  with  two  openings,  to  pass  in  and  out  without  tum- 
iag,  and  whose  plumes  were  not  permitted  to  be  used 
except  by  the  royal  &mily. 

Amid  this  confusion  a  corner  was  cleared  on  the  ta- 
Vtt  for  dinner.  The  conversaticm  continued  in  the  same 
^broken  stream  of  knowledge,  research,  sagacity,  and 
>«liie  on  his  part    PoUtioal  matten  were  qpoken  of  in 


■  100  IHOIDIKTB    or    TBATBL 

wbiflpen  whan  any  servuiti  ware  in  fte  nom.  A 
hugh  was  the  oomment  upon  ereryttaing,  and  in  tba 
evening  we  wan  deep  in  the  myateriea  of  Indiaa  ku- 
tory. 
'  Bendes  the  Mexican  or  Asteo  langoa^  ap6kma-}ij 
the  Pipil  Indians  along  the  coast  of  the  FaaU&,'^fn 
•re  twenty-four  dialects  peculiar  to  Ouatimala.  Tboo^ 
sometimes  bearing  luch  a  strong  resemblance  ill  «dtte 
(rf  tbeii  idioms  that  the  Tn<i|i«iw  of  one  tribe  can  nndv- 
Itand  each  other,  in  general  the  padres,  after  ye«n  of 
re^dence,  can  only  speak  the  language  of  the  tribe 
among  which  they  live.  This  diversity  of  languages 
bad  seemed  to  me  an  insuperable  impediment  in  dw 
way  of  any  thorough  investigation  and  study  of  Indiu 
history  and  traditions ;  but  the  cnra,  profound  in  enty< 
thing  that  related  to  the  Indians,  told  us  that  the  QuieU 
was  the  parent  tongue,  and  that,  by  one  fEuniliai  wiA 
it,  the  others  are  easily  acquired.  If  this  be  true,  a  new 
and  most  interesting  field  of  research  is  opened.  Du- 
ring my  whole  journey,  even  at  Guatimala,  I  bad  not 
been  able  to  procure  any  grammar  of  an  Indian  bn- 
guage,  nor  any  manuscripts.  I  made  several  vocabOr 
laries,  which  I  have  not  thought  it  worth  while  to  pub- 
lish ;  but  the  padre  had  a  book  prepared  by  some  of  do* 
early  fathers  for  the  church  service,  which  he  pronnea^ 
to  have  copied  for  me  and  sent  to  a  friend  at  ffimtirT** 
la,  and  from  which  I  copied  the  Lord's  prayer  in  "^V 
Qnichti  language.     It  is  as  follows ; 

Cacaban  chicah  lae  coni  Vtzah.  Vcahaxtixaxie  ma  ^^^ 
Bila  Chipa  ta  pft  Cani  ahauremla  Cbibantafa.  Ahnn^M^ 
Basak  CUyaia  Chiqneeb  hauta  Vlena  qnehead  CUfcV  ■" 
GUenh.  Uaonlio  Chiyala.  Cbiqueeh  hmm.  M^^ 
OuK-  btdnUCamaequehflxiCaoasaohb^qBU'^^l* 
XwioouM  CUqoeeb:  mobo  Batwbcukapm  ,Ga|t#P' 


iFXciXBH   09  qvxcti   hAvmvAQE.      in 


C9Ri|MiriHih  Chibal 
itgel  qiiebe  Clnicoe. 

I  wiD  add  the 
Mine  book; 

Hon,  one. 

(^uieb|  two. 
Dxib,  Aree. 
Q.uiehebi  fowr. 
Hoob,^9e. 
Uacaeguili  six, 
Veuib,  seven. 
Uahxalquib,  eight. 
Belehei),  mne. 
lAhuh.  ten. 
Sulabuh,  deven. 
Cablahuh,  twelve. 
I^xlahuh,  thirteen. 
^^^ahub,  fourteen, 
"^oolaiiviif  fifteen. 


xanare  Cohcoha  la  ha  Vonohd 
Aineii* 

numerals,  aa  taken  from  thii 

Uaelahuh,  sixteen. 
Velahuh,  seventeen. 
Uapxaelahiib,  eighteen. 
Belehalahuh,  nineteen. 
Hnuinac,  twenty. 
HuulnacAun,  twenty-one. 
Hiiuinachlahuh,  thirty. 
Cauinae,  forty. 
Lahuh  Raxcal,  ^/E/Iy. 
Oxcal,  sixty. 

Lahuh  Vhumuch,  seventy. 
Humuch,  eighty. 
Lahuh  Rocal,  ninety. 
Ocal,  a  hundred. 
Otuc  Rox  Ocob,  a  thousand. 


'Whether  there  is  any  analogy  between  this  langnage 
^d  that  of  any  of  our  own  Indian  tribes,  I  am  not  able 


to 


say. 


I^or  a  man  who  has  not  reached  that  period  when  a 

^^^  years  tell  tipon  his  teeth  and  hair,  I  know  of  no 

place  where,  if  the  country  becomes  quiet,  they  might 

^  passed  with  greater  interest  than  at  Santa  Cms  del 

^UichiS,  in  studying,  by  means  of  their  language,  the 

^'^Bracter  and  traditionary  history  of  the  Indians ;  for 

^^e  they  still  exist,  in  many  respects,  an  unchanged 

People,  cherishing  the  usages  and  customs  of  their  an« 

^^tors ;  and  though  the  grandeur  and  magnificence  of 

^^  churches,  the  pomp  and  show  of  religious  ceremo- 

^^'^^j  afflict  their  rode  imaginations,  the  psdr«  told  us 


ISK  mciBXHTS    or    TILATJiffli^  r 

that  in  their  hearts  they  were  full  of  mpentitioBai 
still  idolaters ;  had  their  idols  in  the  mountains  and  wm 
vines,  and  in  silence  and  secreoy  practised  the  rites 
ceiTed  from  their  fathers.  He  was  compelled  to 
at  them ;  and  there  was  one  proof  which  he  saw  even 
day.  The  church  of  Quiche  stands  east  and  west  ok 
entering  it  for  vespers  the  Indians  always  bowed  to  dUj 
west,  in  reverence  to  the  setting  sun.  He  told  us,  tei^ 
what  requires  confirmation,  and  what  we  were  very  e^ 
rious  to  judge  of  for  ourselves,  that  in  a  cave  near  i 
neighbouring  village  were  sculls  much  larger  than  AA 
natural  siae,  and  regarded  with  superstitious  reverebai 
by  the  Indians.  He  had  seen  them,  and  vouched  lb|( 
their  gigantic  dimensions.  Once  he  placed  a  piece  df 
money  in  the  mouth  of  the  cave,  and  a  year  afterwavi 
found  the  money  still  lying  in  the  same  place,  while,  m 
said,  if  it  had  been  left  on  his  table,  it  would  have  H^ 
appeared  with  the  first  Indian  who  entered. 

The  padre's  whole  manner  was  now  changed;  Hi 
keen  satire  and  his  laugh  were  gone.  There  was  ui- 
terest  enou^  about  the  Indians  to  occupy  the  miajj 
and  excite  the  imagination  of  one  who  laughed  at  ev* 
erything  else  in  the  world;  and  his  enthusiasm,  like 
his  laugh,  was  infectious.  Notwithstanding  our  haste 
to  reach  Palenque,  we  felt  a  strong  desire  to  track 
them  in  the  solitude  of  their  mountains  and  deep  ra- 
vines, and  watch  them  in  the  observance  of  their  idol- 
atrous rites ;  but  the  padre  did  not  give  us  any  encoma 
agement.  In  fact,  he  opposed  our  remaining  another 
day,  even  to  visit  the  cave  of  sculls.  He  made  no 
apology  for  hurrying  us  away.  He  lived  in  unbroken 
sohtnde,  in  a  monotonous  routine  of  occupations,  and 
the  visit  of  a  stranger  was  to  him  an  event  most  w«|» 
come;  but  there  was  danger  in  our  remaining.    TIm 


4(V0THXR    EUINEB    CITY.  198 

hdians  were  in  an  inflammable  state ;  they  were  ai« 
ready  inquiring  what  we  came  there  for,  and  he  could 
Hot  answer  for  our  safety.  In  a  few  months,  perhaps, 
the  excitement  might  pass  away,  and  then  we  could  re- 
torn.  He  loved  the  subjects  we  took  interest  in,  and 
would  join  us  in  all  our  expeditions,  and  aid  us  with  all 
Us  influence.  ^ 

And  the  padre's  knowledge  was  not  confined  to  his 
own  immediate  neighbourhood.  His  first  curacy  was 
at  Cohan,  in  the  province  of  Vera  Paz ;  and  he  told  us 
that  four  leagues  from  that  place  was  another  ancient 
city,  as  large  as  Santa.  Cruz  del  Quiche,  deserted  and 
teolate,  and  almost  as  perfect  as  when  evacuated  by 
its  inhabitants.  He  had  wandered  through  its  silent 
stieetB  and  over  its  gigantic  buildings,  and  its  palace 
^^  as  entire  as  that  of  Qciich^  when  he  first  saw  it. 
TUi  is  within  two  hundred  miles  of  Guatimala,  and  in 
a  district  of  country  not  disturbed  by  war ;  yet,  with  all 
cur  inquiries,  we  had  heard  nothing  of  it.  And  now, 
the  information  really  grieved  us.  Going  to  the  place 
wonld  add  eight  hundred  miles  to  our  journey.  Our 
plans  were  fixed,  our  time  already  limited ;  and  in  that 
wild  country  and  its  unsettled  state,  we  had  supersti- 
tioos  apprehensions  that  it  was  ominous  to  return.     My 

• 

I'Qpression,  however,  of  the  existence  of  such  a  city  is 

'^'fM  strong.     I  do  most  earnestly  hope  that  some  fu- 

^  traveller  will  visit  it.     He  will  not  hear  of  it  even 

'^  ^oatimala,  and  perhaps  will  be  told  that  it  does  not 

^^.    Nevertheless,  let  him  seek  for  it ;  and  if  he  do 

^  it,  experience  sensations  which  seldom  fall  to  the 

*^  of  man. 

^tit  the  padre  told  us  more ;  something  that  increas- 
^  ^Ur  excitement  to  the  highest  pitch.     On  the  other 
^"^  of  the  great  traversing  range  of  Cordilleras  lies  ihe 
Vol.  n.— B  b  17 


I  o&Vera  Pax,  oaee  coliwl  Ticrra  de  Qnena,  at 
tmiict  vmx,  iMn.thtf  i^iUw  ahaiMMviif  iHj  iilnwi^ 

back  in  then  attempli  to  oinqw  it^  Jja».OMI>i<l|iiV 
sf  tba  cstmsl  of  the  tDomiuMfl'  ovdei  in  4MM>tyig|f 
OiwtiBBlBfSBo«Hning-ow.th8'  bloodshed  cmoJ jiy 
what  was  oalled  converting  &e  Indian*  to  Ct)riMiM|||fii 
wrote  »  tMatiae  to  pMve  ibat  JMvine  rrnTidijtin»  ^^ri 
kwiituted  the  preaching  of -Uta'Qoiyel^a-tbat  oi^F 
■wans  of  oonvenioB  to  die  CbiatiaD  bkh ;  ihati  ipc 
.■onld  not  with  jnatioe  >be  OMde-upaa-tiMNa  wimiifi 


and  that  to  haraas  aad  deatroy  the  TnHinnH  .wea  to  pvi 
vent  the  acconpliBhiaii;  of  thia  desi^  object.  ,  Up 
doctrine  he  preached  &<xn  the  pulpit,  and  anfivoadit 
private  asaemblies.  He  wa>  laughed  at,  ridiculed,  aid 
■neeringiy  advised  to  put  hia  theory  in  piectice.  Vtf 
disturbed  by  this  moekery,  he  aooepted  the  propoaai, 
ehoosingas  the  field  of  bis  operations  the  nnoonqueiaUa 
diatiict  called  Tierra  de  Gueira,  and  niada«DanaDg»> 
nent  that  no  ^Moierds  should  be  permktad  to  lesidp-ia 
that  country  for  five  yean.  This  agreed  i^mm,.  tto 
Botninicans  composed  some  hymna  «i  the  Quich&  h^ 
gnege,  deacribing  the  creation  of  the  world,  the  Saiktat 
Adam,  the  redemption  of  mankind,  and  the  priwafil 
1^  myateries  of  the  life,  passion,  «nd  death  of  our  i 
¥hese  were  learned  by  some  Indians  who  tnded  J 
iim  Quiohis,  and  a  princtpail  cacique  of. the  t 
afterward  oeljfid  Don  Juan,  having  heard  Hmm.  i 

mil  i  ihiii  wmhiiin ml  iti 

AftUHNBing  ff  thiaga  so  new  to  him.     TfaAjj 

■  III!   I* 1  I  ).aa^^a<*at  AiKf.aiMU.rvifil$rif^ 

fiiiiiiit^ylhfcfMhMaihi  HJ  teaghttl  ^ 


IP       - 


■  *  ■  ■ 

■       •* 

..«J.       4^    I.ITIN6     CITY.  195 

ntreat  thai  they  would  come  and  make  him  acquainted 
with  what  waa  contained  in  the  songs  of  the  Indian 
nerchants.     A  single  Dominican  friar  returned  with  the 
mbassador,  and  the  cacique,   having  been  made  to 
comprehend  the  mysteries  of  the  new  faith,  burned  his 
idols  and  preached  Christianity  to  his  own  subjects. 
Las  Casas  and  another  associate  followed,  and,  like  the 
•pestles  of  old,  without  scrip  or  staff,  effected  what 
Spanish  arms  could  not,  bringing  a  portion  of  the  Land 
o{  War  to  the  Christian  faith.     The  rest  of  the  Tierra 
de  Guerra  never  was  conquered;  and  at  this  day  the 
nottheastern  section,  bounded  by  the  range  of  the  Cor- 
dilleras and  the  State  of  Chiapas,  is  occupied  by  Can- 
<kaes  or  unbaptized  Indians,  who  live  as  their  fathers 
did,  acknowledging  no  submission  to  the  Spaniards,  and 
Ae  government  of  Central  America  does  not  pretend 
to  exercise  any  control  over  them.     But  the  thing  that 
voQied  us  was  the  assertion  by  the  padre  that,  four  days 
^  the  road  to  Mexico,  on  the  other  side  of  the  great 
sierra,  was  a  living  city,  large  and  populous,  occupied 
I7  Indians,  precisely  in  the  same  state  as  before  the 
^itcovery  of  America.     He  had  heard  of  it  many  years 
Ware  at  the  village  of  Chajul,  and  was  told  by  the  vil- 
^ers  that  from  the  topmost  ridge  of  the  sierra  this  city 
^^  distinctly  visible.     He  was  then  young,  and  with 
'^tich  labour  climbed  to  the  naked  summit  of  the  sierra, 
*^Om  which,  at  a  height  of  ten  or  twelve  thousand  feet,  he 
''Hiked  over  an  immense  plain  extending  to  Yucatan  and 
^^  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  saw  at  a  great  distance  a  large 
'^ty  spread  over  a  great  space,  and  with  turrets  white 
^*id  glittering  in  the  sun.     The  traditionary  account  of 
^^e  Indians  of  Chajul  is,  that  no  white  man 'has  ever 
^Cached  this  city ;  that  the  inhabitants  speak  the  Maya 
^^Qgoage,  are  aware  that  a  race  of  strangers  has  con- 


cattle,  lualw^  at  «tkw  ftom— lin  ammiai*-  < 
•ad  tb*  ow^  tbcy  kawf  vmdm  y—d  t^f 
«o«iig  1>«ng  kwrd. 

TJwn  WW  a  wild  iioiiillj  niiiiMnlliiag  .1 
the  imagma^oa — in  enrj  step  ai.oia.jomiaMf,imJktt 
oountry;  the  old  padre,  ia  Ute  de^  itiUnaw  o£-^ 
dimly-lighted  oonvant,  with  hie  hwg  Uaak  aoat  ISkm  « 
lohe,  and  his  flaatHBg  tj9,  oalled  q»  as  imagaurf  4i 
b(dd  and  lewdute  prieiti  mb»  acooofamed  the  «shp 
of  the  eonqiuron ;  and  ae  he  drew  a  m^p  on  tha'  tahltt 
and  pointed  out  the  sierra  to  the  top  af  which  be  bii 
nlimbed,  and  the  position  of  the  mysterioua  oi^,  the  ill' 
tereat  awakened  in  us  we*  the  most  thrilling  I  erer  «tr 
perienced.  One  look  at  that  city  was  worth  ten  yeas 
of  an  every-day  life.  If  he  is  rif^t,  a  plfwa  is  left  whtti 
Indians  and  an  Indian  city  exist  as  Cortex  and  AlvaradB 
^oand  them ;  there  are  living  men  who  can  aolTe  the 
mystery  that  hangs  over  the  mined  oitias  of  Ametioaj 
perhaps  who  can  go  to  Copan  and  read  the  inscr^itiaai 
on  its  moamnents.  No  subject  mcoe  sxoitkig  and  at- 
tractive presents  itself  to  my  mind,  and  the  da^  j» 
^easion  of  that  night  will  uever  be  efiacedt 

Can  it  be  true  ?  Being  now  in  my  sober  nnnn— j  ijf 
veiily  believe  there  is  much  ground  to  suppose  that  wk0 
the  padre  told  us  is  authentic.  That  the  region  rej 
to  does  not  acknowledge  the  goveiument  of  Goi 
has  neasr.  ha«,  ezpkud^  and-that  no  iriiila  a 
|BJlii^to-e»tarit,Jai»satirfiaa.  ¥iom* 
jwawJupMltiMt  fillip  lli».siiin«»tMg>j-wiM|,i» 
mv^miiU^  9mi  lea^npw  unit  oCwBotho-  pammmlm 
A^  aiNibMl  >  iba  i(9.4ft«hti  4«at,  .but,  oo- wipMf 


A     PIBLDt'OB     FVTVRB     EKTBRPRI8E.       197 

the  dense  cloud  resting  upon  it,  had  been  unable  to  see 
anything.  At  all  events,  the  belief  at  the  village  of 
C«faajal  is  general,  and  a  curiosity  is  roused  that  burns 
to  be  satisfied.  We  had  a  craving  desire  to  reach  the 
mysterious  city.  No  man,  even  if  willing  to  peril  his 
bfe,  could  undertake  the  enterprise  with  any  hope  of 
success,  without  hovering  for  one  or  two  years  on  the 
borders.of  the  country,  studying  the  language  and  char- 
acter of  the  adjoining  Indians,  and  making  acquaintance 
with  some  of  the  natives.  Five  hundred  men  could 
{MTobably  march  directly  to  the  city,  and  the  invasion 
would  be  m<»re  justifiable  than  any  ever  made  by  the 
Spaniards ;  but  the  government  is  too  much  occupied 
with  its  own  wars,  and  the  knowledge  could  not  be 
procured  except  at  the  price  of  blood.  Two  young 
men  of  good  constitution,  and  who  could  afford  to 
tfpQie  five  years,  might  succeed.  If  the  object  of  search 
prove  a  phantom,  in  the  wild  scenes  of  a  new  and  un- 
explored country  there  are  other  objects  of  interest ; 
bat  if  real,  besides  the  glorious  excitement  of  such  a 
novelty,  they  will  have  something  to  look  back  upon 
through  life.  As  to  the  dangers,  these  are  always  mag- 
nified, and,  in  general,  peril  is  discovered  soon  enough 
for  escape.  But  in  all  probability,  if  any  discovery  ia 
ever  made  it  will  be  by  the  padres.  As  for  ourselves, 
to  attempt  it  alone,  ignorant  of  the  language,  and  with 
mosos  who  were  a  constant  annoyance  to  us,  was  out 
of  the  question.  The  most  we  thought  of  was  a  climb 
to  the  top  of  the  sierra,  thence  to  look  down  upon  the 
mysterious  city ;  but  we  had  difficulties  enough  in  the 
road  before  us ;  it  would  add  ten  days  to  a  journey  al- 
ready almost  appalling  in  prospective ;  for  days  the  si- 
erra might  be  covered  with  clouds ;  in  attempting  too 
much  we  might  lose  all ;  Palenque  was  our  great  point, 


W«  had  on  TiUag*  t«qpaa"<« 
whicA  ha  uM-  as  the  lodkn  woe  bad;  ftrwUeh^tv 
MK  ksgarom  alottatftttai  jaatids; -udlmhrtAiti    . 
MM  of  bis  heut  iaMted  «^#7  aoeapA^;  «M  cMfe  ■ 
baratif  id  iinanlfls.  -     '    * 

•  At  this  was  Ho^^eak,  we  had  graat  diffi<waiy# 
pCDcoiing  a  gaide.  --Hana  of  the  HUan  wiAad'tt 
laaTe  the  village,  and  the  alsalda  toM  as  a^oMtttk 
take  a  man  out  of  prison.  After  a  parley  with  die  jfr 
mates  throng^  the  grating,  one  was  selected,  but  ks^ 
in  confinemeattill  the  moaent  qt  startiiig,  when  tlia  1^ 
gnazil  opened  the  door  and  let  him  ottt,  our  Tott'if 
lnggag;e  was  pat  on  his  back,  -and  he'iiM  off.  The  biC' 
tered  aiddiei  accompanied  us  a  ^hort  distance,  and  Bobaa 
went  before,  oarrylng  on  aatiek  tlie  royal  bird  of  QnicM. 
Crossing  the  plain  and  the  xa%iBe  djjr^hidi  the  ciVf 
atoodf  we  ascended  a  mountain  in  the  Kar,  oommariA* 
ing  a  magnificent  view  of  the  plain  dt  Qmcbt,  aad  4b 
aeending  on  the  other  side,  at  the  distance  of  tM 
leagneaceached  the  village  of  San  Pedro.  *A  tbal(MA 
church,  with  a  cross  before  it,  stood  near  the  read,  a4( 
the  buts  of  the  village  were  a  little  in  the  ran.  VW 
padre  had  told  us  that  the  Indians  of  this  place  'Wtitk 
"  muy  maloB,"  very  bad ;  and  as  ottr  gttide,  when  to  m* 
tamed,Jiad  to  be  leaked  up  in  pnaea,  to  AofdAsH^ 
uiMiilj'H^  aU^iping  we  tried  to  indnee  bfaxf  to  oBMttMh 
iMthed«appedhial«MM»footof.tba  «t«<tiM 
tan  baafc  in  aooh  k|iMM||s  kft  behind  lAl'  fi^ 
fsdalwaMr.    Tto  j  illltft  ijhi  Meatifb;  who  <MI  jlfc 


h 


TIKTUX     or     A    PA88POET.  1Q9 

the    alcalde,  and  presently  that  worthy  trotted  down 
with   six  algnazilsy  marching  in  single  file,  all  with 
waads  in  their  hands,  and  dressed  in  handsome  cloth 
cloaks,  the  holyday  costume  for  the  Holy  Week.     We 
told   them  that  we  wanted  a  guide,  and  the  whole  six 
set  off  to  look  for  one.     In  about  ten  minutes  they  re- 
^^vned  single  file,  exactly  on  the  same  trot  as  before, 
^d  said  they  could  not  find  any ;  the  whole  week  was 
Aolyday,  and  no  one  wanted  to  leave  home.     I  showed 
^Hrrera's  passport,  and  told  the  justitia  he  must  go  him- 
^If,  or  send  one  of  bis  alguazils,  and  they  set  oiF  again 
***  pursuit.     After  waiting  a  little  while,  I  walked  to  the 
*op  of  a  hill  near  by,  and  saw  them  all  seated  below, 
apparently  waiting  for  me  to  go.     As  soon  as  they  saw 
'^e  they  ran  back  in  a  body  to  repeat  that  they  could 
'^ot  find  a  guide.     I  offered  them  double  price,  but  they 
^"cre  immovable ;    and  feeling  rather  uncertain  what 
^^*tii  things  might  take,  I  talked  largely  of  Carrera's 
^^engeance,  not  contenting  myself  with  turning  them  out 
^f  office,  but  taking  off  their  heads  at  once.     After  a 
^^w  moments'  consultation  they  all  rose  quietly ;  one 
^<>ffed  his  dignity  and  dress,  the  rest  rolled  up  the  cargo, 
^^d  throwing  it  on  his  bare  back,  placed  the  band 
^^C!ro8s  his  forehead,  and  set  him  off  on  a  run.    We  foUow-i 
^^,  the  secretary  begging  me  to  write  to  Carrera  that  it 
not  through  his  fault  I  was  kept  waiting,  and  that  he 
onld  have  been  my  guide  himself  if  I  had  not  found 
^^other.     At  a  short  distance  another  alguazil,  by  a 
^•■oss  cut,  intercepted  and  relieved  the  first,  and  they 
n  90  fast  that  on  the  rough  road  we  could  not  keep  up 
ith  them. 

The  road  was  indeed  rough  and  wild  beyond  all 
^^scription ;  and  very  soon  we  reached  another  im- 
mense ravine,  descended  it,  and  commenced  an  ascent 


i 


MO  I3ICK»I>-TS    or    TR^¥B^ 

OQ   tLe   opposite   siue,  which  occupied    three   houn, 
Thfoagh  openiugs  iu  the  woods  we  looked  down  pte- 
cq>ices  one  or   two  thousand  feet  deep,    while  the 
mountain  side  wtt»  still  higher  above  us.     The  whole 
mountain  was  clothed  wiui  luxuriant  vegetation^  and 
though  wanting  the  rocky,  savage  grandeur  of  Alpine 
scenery,  at  every  turn  the  view  was  sublime.     As  we 
climbed  up  we  met  a  lew  Indians  who  could  qpeak  no 
hinguage  but  iheir  own,  and  reaching  the  top,  saw  a 
wretched  spec&aole  ox  the  beings  made  in  God's  image. 
A  drunken  ludiau  was  lying  on  the  ground,  his  face 
cut  with  a  machete,  and  weltering  in  his  blood;  and  a 
drunken  woman  was  crvinfir  over  him.     Our  Indians 
stopped  and  spoke  to  tliem.  but  we  could  not  under- 
stand what  they  said.     At  about  three  o'clpck  we  emer- 
ged from  the  woods,  and  very  soon  saw  Totonicapaxii 
at  a  great  distance  and  far  below  us,  on  a  magnificent 
plaiu,  with  a  high  table  of  land  behind  it,  a  range  of 
mountains  springing  from  the  table,  and  rising  above 
them  the  Volcano  of  Quezaltenaiigo.     The  town  was 
spread  over  a  large  space,  and  the  flat  roofs  of  the 
houses  seemed  one  huge  covering,  broken  only  by  the 
steeple  of  the  church.     We  descended  the  mountain  to 
the  banks  of  a  beautiful  stream,  along  which  Indian 
women  were  Avashing;    and  following  it,  entered  the 
town,  and  rode  up  to  the  house  of  the  corregidor,  Don 
Jo86  Azmitia.     Our  luggage  had  arrived  safely,  and  in 
a  few  minutes  our  men  presented  themselves  to  receive 

ILS. 

Much  might  be  said  of  Totonicapan  as  tlie  head  of  a 
department,  and  surromided  by  inoiintains  visible  on  all 
sides  from  the  plaza  ;  but  I  stop  only  to  record  an  event. 
All  along,  with  the  letters  to  corregidors,  the  passix)rt, 
of  Carrera,  and  the  letter  of  the  archbishop,  our  road 


▲    RKAL    DXNNBR.  SOI 

liad  been  a  sort  of  triumphal  inarch ;  but  at  this  place 
we  dined,  L  e«,  we  had  a  dinner.    The  reader  may  re- 
member that  in  Costa  Rica  I  promised  to  offend  but 
once  more  by  referring  to  such  a  circumstance.     That 
time  has  eome,  and  I  should  consider  myself  an  ingrate 
^  I  omitted  to  mention  it.     Wc  were  kept  waiting  per- 
i^ps  two  hours,  and  we  had  not  eaten  anything  in 
^ore  than  twelve.     We  had  clambered  over  terrible 
fountains ;  and  at  six  o'clock,  on  invitation,  with  hands 
^d  faces  washed,  and  in  dress-coats,  sat  down  with  the 
^mregidor.     Courses  came  regularly  and  in  right  suc- 
^^on.     Servants  were  well  trained,  and  our  host  did 
^e  honours  as  if  he  was  used  to  the  same  thing  every 
^^y.     But  it  was  not  so  with  us.     Like  Rittmaster  Du- 
S^ild  Dalgettyi  we  ate  very  fast  and  very  long,  on  his 
prixiciple  deeming  it  the  duty  of  every  commander  of  a 
fox'tresSi  on  all  occasions  which  offer,  to  secure  as  much 
Munition  and  vivas  as  their  magazines  can  possibly  hold, 
^e  were  again  on  the  line  of  Carrera's  operations ; 
^he  place  was  alive  with  apprehensions;   white  men 
"^ere  trembling  for  their  lives ;  and  I  advised  our  host 
^o  leave  the  country  and  come  to  the  United  States. 

The  next  morning  we  breakfasted  with  him,  and  at 
eleven  o'clock,  while  a  procession  was  forming  in  the 
plaza,  we  started  for  Quezaltenango,  descended  a  ra- 
pine commanding  at  every  point  a  beautiful  view,  as- 
cended a  mountain,  from  which  we  looked  back  upon 
^he  plain  and  town  of  Totonicapan,  and  on  the  top  en- 
^^red  a  magnificent  plain,  cultivated  with  cornfields  and 
dotted  with  numerous  flocks  of  sheep,  the  first  we  had 
^^^n  in  the  country;  on  both  sides  of  tlie  road  were 
*^edge8  of  gigantic  aloea*  In  one  place  we  counted  up- 
^^ird  of  two  hundred  in  full  bloom.  In  the  middle  of 
the  plain,  at  the  distance  of  two  and  a  half  leagues,  we 
Vol.  XL — C  o 

*  Agave  Americana. 


crossed,  on  a  rude  bridge  of  logs,  a  broad  river,  atemo- 
rable  for  the  kiUed  and  wounded  thrown  inlo  it  in  Aiva- 
rado's  battle  with  Ihe  QiitchA  ladtans,  and  called  the 
"River  of  Blood,"  Two  leases  beyond  we  came  in 
sight  of  Quezallenango,  standing  at  the  foot  of  a  gresl 
range  of  mounlains,  siirmoiinied  by  a  rent  volcano  eon- 
atantly  emitting  smoke,  and  before  it  a  mounlain  ridge 
of  lava,  which,  if  it  had  taken  its  course  toward  ibe  |»ty, 
would  have  buried  it  like  Herculaneum  and  Poropeti. 


qCEK ALTENAH O 


CHAPTER  Xn. 

ItniiTgQ. — Accaant  oS  it.— Cun'frsinn  o[  the  Inbtbttula  la  CluiMlMUly. 
— Appoannce  of  tbe  Cil;,— The  Can-veDt.-^iUBmeUoo,— Cknvn's  Mirth 
opon  QDezilmuingo.— Ifu  TmimsDt  of  thn  IntKbiiaUi.— -PnipaniiODa  loi 
Holy  Week.-Tlie  Church.-A  Prucoss ion. -Good  Friclaj.-C»l«brelioii  of  lbs 
Resuirectton, — OiKnine  Ceiemnny,— The  Ciucifition.— A  Soniion  —  Llctomt 
Acn  ttia  Crou.— Gnnd  Fraceuion.— Church  of  £1  Ctlviaa.— The  Cch  M 
ttia  Cun.— Wsim  Springi  of  AlmolODKS. 

'Wb  were  agnin  on  cinsaic  soil.  The  reader  perhaps 
requires  to  be  Tcminded  that  lh«  city  stand?  on  the  site  of 
the  ancient  Xelahuh,  next  to  Utiitlan  the  largest  oily  in 
Quiche,  the  word  Xelahuh  meaning  "  under  the  govern* 
nicnt  of  ten  ;"  that  ia,  it  was  governed  by  ten  principal 
captain?,  each  captain  presiding  over  eight  thousand 
dwellings,  in  all  eighty  thousuiid,  and  containing,  ac- 
cordine  to  Fiiciiies,  more  than  three  hundred  thousand 
imbBbitaiits ;  that  on  the  defeat  of  Tecum  tlmam  by  Al- 
varado,  ibe  inhabitants  abandoned  the  city,  and  fled  tiyl 
their  ancient  fortroflses,  Excanscl  the  volcano,  and  Celt-  ■ 
xak,  another  mountain  adjoining ;  that  tfae  Spaniards  en- 
tered the  deserted  city,  and,  according  to  a  manuscript 
fouoil  in  the  village  of  San  Andres  Xccul,  their  videttes 
capluied  the  four  celebrated  caciques,  whose  nan 
reader  doubtless  remembers,  were  Calel  Kolek,  Ahp« 
goehnm,  Calclahan,  and  Catelaboy ;  the  Spanish  rec- 
ords Bay  that  ihey  fell  on  Iheir  knees  before  Pedro  Al- 
Tarado,  while  a  priest  eiplained  to  them  the  nature  of 
the  Chrialiao  feilh,  and  they  declared  themselves  reedy 
to  embrace  it.  Two  of  Ihem  were  retained  as  hostages, 
and  the  others  sent  back  lo  I  he  fortresses,  who  returned 
with  ^iieh  ronltitndes  of  Indians  ready  to  be  baptized, 
that  the  priests,  from  sheer  fatigue,  could  no  longer  lift 
jrlrins  to  perform  ihe  ceremony. 


k 


204  INCIDENTS     OF    TRAVEL. 

As  we  approached,  seven  towering  churches  showed 
that  the  religion  so  hastily  adopted  had  not  died  away. 
In  a  few  minutes  we  entered  the  citv.  The  streets 
were  handsomely  paved,  and  the  houses  picturesque  in 
architecture ;  the  cabildo  had  two  stories  and  a  corri- 
dor. The  Cathedral,  with  its  fa9ade  richly  decorated, 
was  grand  and  imposing.  The  plaza  was  paved  with 
stone,  having  a  fine  fountain  in  the  centre,  and  com- 
manding a  magnificent  view  of  the  volcano  and  mount- 
ains around.  It  was  the  day  before  Good  Friday ;  the 
streets  and  plaza  were  crowded  with  people  in  their 
best  attire,  the  Indians  w^earing  large  black  cloaks, 
with  broad-brimmed  felt  sombreros,  and  the  women  a 
white  frock,  covering  the  head  except  an  oblong  open- 
ing for  the  face ;  some  wore  a  sort  of  turban  of  red 
cord  plaited  with  the  liair.  The  bells  were  hushed, 
and  wooden  clappers  sounded  in  their  stead.  As  we 
rode  through,  armed  to  the  teeth,  the  crowd  made  way 
in  silence.  We  passed  the  door  of  the  church,  and  en- 
tered the  great  gate  of  the  ooiivcnt.  The  cura  was 
absent  at  the  moment,  but  a  respectable-looking  ser- 
vant-woman received  us  in  a  manner  that  assured  us  of 
a  welcome  from  her  master.  There  was,  however,  an 
air  of  excitement  and  trepidation  in  the  whole  house- 
hold, and  it  was  not  long  before  the  good  woman  un- 
burdened herself  of  matters  fearfully  impresscil  upon 
her  mind. 

•  Alter  chocolate  we  went  to  the  corrogidor,  to  whom 
we  presented  our  letters  from  the  government  and  Car- 
rer;i's  passport.  He  was  one  of  Morazan's  expulsados, 
a  fine,  military-looking  man,  but,  as  he  told  us,  not  a 
soldier  by  profession  ;  he  was  in  ollice  by  accident,  and 
exceedingly  anxious  to  lay  down  his  coniinand  ;  in* 
deed,  lii>  bri'jf  service  had  been  no  sinecure.     He  in 


1I 


.  .< 


nr 


'/ 


V 


-t    M 


qUBSALTBKANOO. 

trodnced  us  to  Don  Juan  Lavanigno,  an  Italian  from 
Grenoa,  banished  on  account  of  a  revolution  headed  by 
the  present  king,  then  heir  apparent,  and  intended  to 
put  him  on  the  throne,  but  out  of  which  he  basely  drew 
himself,  leaving  his  followers  to  their  fate.  How  the 
signor  found  his  way  to  this  place  I  did  not  learn,  but 
he  had  not  found  peace  ;  and,  if  I  am  not  deceived,  he 
W8S  as  anxious  to  get  out  of  it  as  ever  he  was  to  leave 
Genoa. 

On  our  return  to  the  convent  we  found  the  cura,  who 
gave  us  personally  the  welcome  assured  to  us  by  his 
housekeeper.  With  him  was  a  respectable-looking  In- 
dian, bearing  the  imposing  title  of  Gobernador,  being 
the  Indian  alcalde ;  and  it  was  rather  singular  that,  in 
an  hour  after  our  arrival  at  Quezaltenango,  we  had  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  four  surviving  victims  of  Car- 
rera's  wruth,  all  of  whom  had  narrowly  escaped  death 
at  the  time  of  the  outrage,  the  rumour  of  which  reached 
us  at  Guntimala.  The  place  was  still  quivering  under 
the  shock  of  that  event.  Wc  had  heard  many  of  the 
particulars  on  the  road,  and  in  Quezaltenango.  except 
the  parties  concerned,  no  one  could  speak  of  anything 
else. 

On  the  first  entry  of  Morazan's  soldiers  into  the  plaza 
at  Guatimala,  in  an  unfortunate  moment,  a  courier  was 
sent  to  Quezaltenango  to  announce  the  capture  of  the 
city.  The  effect  there  was  immediate  and  decided; 
the  people  rose  upon  the  garrison  left  by  Carrera, 
and  required  them  to  lay  down  their  arms.  The  cor- 
regidor,  not  wishing  to  fire  upon  the  townsmen,  and 
finding  it  would  be  impossible  with  his  smaU  force  to 
repress  the  insurrection,  by  the  advice  of  the  cura  and 
Don  Juan  Lavanigno,  to  prevent  bloodshed  and  a  gen- 
eral massacre,  induced  the  soldiers  to  lay  down  their 

18 


INCIDBNT8     OP    TRATBL. 

arms  and  leave  the  town.     The  same  night  the 
cipality,  without  his  knowledge,  nominated  Don  Juui 
Lavanigno  as  commandant.     He  refused  to  serve ;  but 
the  town  was  in  a  violent  state  of  excitement,  end  they 
urged  him  to  accept  for  that  night  only,  representiiig 
that  if  he  did  not  tlie  fury  of  the  populace  would  be  dir 
rectcd  against  him.     The  same  night  they  made  a  pro* 
nunciamento  in  favour  of  Morazan,  and  addressed  a  let- 
ter of  congratulation  to  him,  which  they  despatched  in*** 
mediately  by  an  Indian  courier.     It  will  be  remember- 
ed, however,  that  in  the  mean  time  Morazan  had  been 
driven  out  of  Guatimala,  and  that  Carrera  had  pursued 
him  in  his  flight.     At  the  Antigua  the  latter  met  a  dis* 
armed  sergeant,  who  informed  him  of  the  proceediofi 
at  Quezaltenango,  whereupon,  abandoning  his  pursuit 
of  Morazan,  he  marched  directly  thither.     Early  int^ 
ligence  was  received  of  his  approach,  and  the  corregidor, 
the  cura,  and  Don  Juan  Lavanigno  were  sent  as  a  dep- 
utation to  receive  him.     They  met  him  at  Totonicapan. 
Carrera  had  heard  on  the  road  of  their  agency  in  indu- 
cing the  soldiers  to  surrender  their  arms,  and  his  firrt 
greeting  was  a  furious  declaration  that  their  heads  should 
lie  at  that  place  ;    laying  aside  his  fanaticism  and  re- 
spect for  the  priests,  he  broke  out  against  the  cura  in 
particular,  who,  he  said,  was  a  relative  of  Morazan. 
The  cura  said  he  was  not  a  relative,  but  only  a  coun- 
tryman (which  in  that  region  means  a  townsman),  and 
could  not  help  the  place  of  his  birth ;  but  Carrera  forth- 
with ordered  four  soldiers  to  remove  him  a  few  paces 
and  shoot  him  on  the  spot.     The  gobernador,  the  oW 
Indian  referred  to,  threw  himself  on  his  knees  and 
begged  the  cura's  life;    but  Carrera  drew  his  sword 
and  struck  the  Indian  twice  across  the  shoulder,  and  the 
wounds  were  still  unhealed  when  we  saw  him ;  but  he 


CARRCRA     IT     Q  US  SAL-T  E  N  A  N  O  O.  907 

■^ieBirted  Ircm'hiB^imntdiiBtit  pnrpose  of  ahobtiiig  the 
^joid -.AMmred  liitn  over  ta  the  floldien.  'Tkm, 
flwcwwaifpiD  Was  saved  by  Carrera's  seeretaery,  who 
.tfi^tibilbd  in  El  Tiempo,  the  government  paper  of  Oorf 
"ftimala,  an  extract  from  a  letter  written  by  Don  Juan  to 
0,  friend  in  Guatimala,  praising  Carrera's  deportment  on 
his  previous  entry  into  Quczaltenango,  and  the  disci- 
-pUne  and  good  behaviour  of  his  troops. 

Early  the  next  morning  Carrera  marched  into  Quez- 
altenango,  with  the  cura  and  Don  Juan  as  prisoners. 
The  municipality  waited  upon  him  in  the  plaza ;  but,  un- 
happily, the  Indian  intrusted  with  the  letter  to  Morazan 
had  loitered  in  the  town,  and  at  this  unfortunate  mo- 
ment presented  it  to  Carrera.     Before  his  secretary  had 
finished   reading  it,  Carrera,  in  a  transport  of  fory^ 
drew  his  sword  to  kill  them  on  the  spot  with  his  own 
band,  wounded  Molina,  the  alcalde-mayor,  and  two  oth» 
^r  members  of  the  municipality,  but  checked  himself 
^uid  ordered  the  soldiers  to  seize  them.     He  then  rode 
to  the  corregidor,  where  he  again  broke  out  into  f^ury, 
Bnd  drew  his  sword  upon  him.     A  woman  in  the  room 
threw  herself' before  the  corregidor,  and  Carrera  struck 
*it)und  her  several  times,  but  finally  checked  himself 
^gain,  and  ordered  the  corregidor  to  be  shot  unless 
he  raised  five  thousand  dollars  by  contributions  upon 
the  town.     Don  Juan  and  the  cura  he  had  locked  up  in 
^  room  with  the  threat  to  shoot  them  at  five  o'clock  that 
afternoon  unless  they  paid  him  one  thousand  dollars 
^8ch,  and  the  former  two  hundred,  and  the  latter  one 
hundred  to  his  secretary.     Don  Juan  was  the  principal 
Merchant  in  the  town,  but  even  for  him  it  was  difficult 
to  raise  that  sum.     The  poor  cura  told  Carrera  that  he 
^as  not  worth  a  cent  in  the  world  except  his  furniture 
^nd  books.     No  one  was  allowed  to  visit  him  except 


INCIDENTS    OF    TRATSL. 

the  old  housekeeper  who  first  told  xm  the  story*  Mmay 
of  his  friends  had  fled  or  hidden  themselTes  away,  mad 
the  old  housekeeper  ran  from  place  to  place  witl}  nolas 
written  by  him,  begging  five  dollars,  ten  dollars,  any- 
thing she  could  get.  One  old  lady  sent  him  a  husdred 
dollars.  At  four  o'clock,  with  all  his  effortSy  he  had 
raised  but  seven  hundred  dollars ;  but,  after  midergo- 
ing  all  the  mental  agonies  of  death,  when  the  cura  had 
given  up  all  hope,  Don  Juan,  who  had  been  two  honia 
at  liberty,  made  up  the  deficiency,  and  he  was  released. 
The  next  morning  Carrera  sent  to  Don  Juan  to  boiw 
row  his  shaving  apparatus,  and  Don  Juan  took  them 
over  himself.  He  had  always  been  on  good  terms  with 
Carrera,  and  the  latter  asked  him  if  he  had  got  over  Us 
firight,  talking  with  him  as  familiarly  as  if  nothing  had 
happened.  Shortly  afterward  he  was  seen  at  the  win- 
dow playing  on  a  guitar ;  and  in  an  hour  thereafter, 
eighteen  members  of  the  municipality,  without  the 
slightest  form  of  trial,  not  even  a  drum-head  court-mar- 
tial, were  taken  out  into  the  plaza  and  shot.  They 
were  all  the  very  first  men  in  Quezaltenango ;  and  Mo- 
lina, the  alcalde-mayor,  in  family,  position,  and  charac- 
ter was  second  to  no  other  in  the  republic.  His  wife 
was  clinging  to  Carrera's  knees,  and  begging  for  his 
life  when  he  passed  with  a  file  of  soldiers.  She  scream- 
ed '^  Robcrtito ;"  he  looked  at  her,  but  did  not  speak. 
She  shrieked  and  fainted,  and  before  she  recovered  her 
husband  was  dead.  He  was  taken  around  the  corner 
of  the  house,  seated  on  a  stone,  and  despatched  at  once. 
The  others  were  seated  in  the  same  place,  one  at  a 
time ;  the  stone  and  the  wall  of  the  house  were  still  red 
with  their  blood.  I  was  told  that  Carrera  shed  tears 
for  the  death  of  the  first  two,  but  for  the  rest  he  said  he 
did  not  care.     Heretofore,  in  all  their  revolutions,  there 


THB    CHVRCH. 

liad  been  some  show  of  regard  for  the.  tribimalB  of  jut- 
tioe^  Andtbohortor  of  the  citizens  at  this  lawless  mur- 
der of  their  best  men  cannot  be  conceived.     The  facta 
«?«rere  nefarious  to  everybody  in  Quezaltenango.    We 
Jseard  them,  with  but  little  variation  of  detail,  from  move 
^^yn  a  doeen  different  persons. 

Having  consummated  this  enormity.  Carrera  returned 
/^o  Guatinialai  and  the  place  had  not  yet  recovered  from 
£^s  eoiMCeniation.     It  was  considered  a  blow  at  the 
^1  iiitto,  and  all  feared  the  horrors  of  a  war  of  castes.     I 
iBi^ve  avoided  speaking  harshly  of  Carrera  when  I  could. 
{     consider  myself  under  personal  obligations  to  him, 
without  his  protection  I  never  could  have  travelled 
'ough  the  country ;  but  it  is  difiicult  to  suppress  the 
feelings  of  indignation  excited  against  the  government, 
w^bich,  conscious  of  the  enormity  of  his  conduct  and 
of    his  utter  contempt  for  them,  never  dared  call  him  to 
account,  and  now  cajoles  and  courts  him,  sustaining  it- 
self in  power  by  his  favour  alone. 

To  return  to  the  cura :  he  was  about  forty-five,  taU, 
itout,  and  remarkably  fine*looking ;  he  had  several  cu- 
tacies  under  his  charge,  and  next  to  a  canonigo's,  his 
poaition  was  the  highest  in  the  country ;  but  it  had  its 
labours.     He  was  at  that  time  engrossed  with  the  cere- 
monies of  the  Holy  Week,  and  in  the  evening  we  ac- 
companied him  to  the  chiuch.     At  the  door  the  coup 
^9il  of  the  interior  was  most  striking.     The  church 
▼as  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  length,  qpacious  and 
^fty,  richly  decorated  with  pictures  and  sculptured  or- 
QAmeats,  blazing  with  lights,  and  crowded  with  In- 
dians.   On  each  side  of  the  door  was  a  grating,  behind 
which  stood  an  Indian  to  receive  offerings.     The  floor 
was  strewed  with  pine-leaves.     On  the  left  was  the  fig- 
^"'e  of  a  dead  Christ  on  a  bier,  upon  which  every  woman 
Vol.  II.— D  d 


F.^ 


810  INCIDAUTt    OF    TRATSL. 

who  entered  thr^w  a  handful  of  roses,  and  near  it  stoo4 
an  Indian  to  receive  money.  Opposite,  behind  an  mm> 
grating,  was  the  figure  of  Christ  bearing  the  ctcmb,  tki 
eyes  bandaged,  .and  large  silver  chains  attached  to  the 
arms  and  other  parts  of  the  body,  and  fastened  to  the 
iron  bars.  Here,  too,  stood  an  Indian  to  receive  oo^ 
tributions.  The  altar  was  beautiful  in  design  and  dec- 
orations, consisting  of  two  rows  of  Ionic  columns,  dm 
above  another,  gilded,  surmounted  by  a  goMea  glon^ 
and  lighted  by  candles  ten  feet  high«  Under  Ike  piilp^ 
was  a  piano.  After  a  stroll  around  the  church,  ths 
cura  led  us  to  seats  imder  the  pulpit.  He  asked  \m  t# 
give  them  some  of  the  airs  of  our  couutry,  and  then 
himself  sat  down  at  the  piano.  On  Mr.  C.'s  suggesting 
that  the  tune  was  from  one  of  Rossini's  operas,  he  said 
that  this  was  hardly  proper  for  the  occasion,  and  cha^ 
ged  it. 

At  about  ten  o'clock  the  ctowd  in  the  church  formed 
into  a  procession,  and  Mr.  C.  and  I  went  out  and  took 
a  position  at  the  corner  of  a  street  to  sec  it  pass.     It  was 
headed  by  Indians,  two  abreast,  each  carrying  in  his 
hand  a  long  lighted  wax  candle ;  and  then,  borne  aloft 
on  the  shoulders  of  four  men,  came  the  figure  of  Juditl^ 
with  a  bloody  sword  in  one  hand,  and  in  the  other  the 
gory  head  of  Plolofernes.     Next,  also  on  the  shoulden^ 
of  four  men,  the  archangel  Gabriel,  dressed  in  red  silk  ^ 
with  large  wings  puffed  out.     The  next  were  men  i 
grotesque  armour,  made  of  black  and  silver  paper, 
resi-niblc  Moors,  with  sliield  and  spear  like  ancient 
alicrs ;  and  then  four  little  girls,  dressed  in  white  silk 
gauze,  and  louking  like  little  spiritualities,  with  men 
each  side  bearing  lighted  candles.     Then  came  a  laT'^ 
figure  of  Christ  bearing  the  cross,  supported  by  four 
dians ;  on  each  side  were  young  Indian  lads,  carryi 


CKRVII0KIK8    OP    GOOD     FRIDAT.  211 


long  pedes  horisontallyy  to  keep  the  crowd  from  preflsing 
upoii  it,  and  IbUowed  by  a  procesaioa  of  townsmen.    In 
taming  the  comer  of  the  street  at  which  we  stood,  a 
ink  MestitiOy  with  a  scowl  of  fianaticism  on  his  face, 
aaid  to  Mr.  Catherwood,  "  Take  off  your  spectacles  and 
foUow  the  croflSi"     Next  followed  a  procession  of  wo- 
men mth  children  in  their  arms,  half  of  them  asleep, 
iuicifully  dressed  with  silver  caps  and  headdresses,  and 
finally  a  large  statue  of  the  Virgin,  in  a  sitting  posture, 
magnifioently  attired,  with  Indian  lads  on  each  side,  as 
beforei  supporting  poles  with  candles.     The  whole  was 
accompanied  with  the  music  of  drums  and  violins ;  and, 
as  the  long  train  of  light  passed  down  the  street,  we 
returned  to  the  convent. 

The  night  was  very  cold,  and  the  next  morning  was 
like  one  in  December  at  home.     It  was  the  morning  of 
Grood  Friday ;  and  throughout  Ouatimala,  in  every  vil- 
lage, preparations  were  making  to  celebrate,  with  the 
incst  solemn  ceremonies  of  the  Church,  the  resurrection 
^  the  Saviour.     In  Quezaltenango,  at  that  early  hour, 
the  plaaa  was  thronged  with  Indians  from  the  country 
^^roand;  but  the  whites,  terrified  and  grieving  at  the 
'luirder  of  their  best  men,  avoided,  to  a  great  extent, 
^Viking  part  in  the  celebration. 

At  nine  o'clock  the  corregidor  called  for  us,  and  we 

Accompanied  him  to  the  opening  ceremony.     On  one 

Aide  of  the  nave  of  the  church,  near  the  grand  altar, 

^od  opposite  the  pulpit,  were  high  cushioned  chairs  for 

^3i«  corregidor  and  members  of  the  municipality,  and 

e  had  seats  with  them.     The  church  was  throng^d 

ith  Indians,  estimated  at  more  than  three  thousand. 

ormerly,  at  this  ceremony  no  women  or  children  were 

dmitted ;  but  now  the  floor  of  the  church  was  filled 

ilh   Indian   women  on   their   knees,  with  rod  cords 


I 


312  INCIDBNTS    OF    TRAVBL. 

plaited  in  their  hair,  and  perhaps  one  third  of  AemJud 
children  on  their  backs,  their  heads  and  arms- only ^jp* 
ble.     Except  ourselves  and  the  padre,  there  wen.4V> 
white  people  in  the  church ;  and^  with  all  eyes  tvosad 
upon  us,  and  a  lively  recollection  of  the  fiate  of 
who  but  a  few  days  before  had  occupied  our  seats, 
felt  that  the  post  of  honour  vnis  a  private  station.       t« 
At  the  steps  of  the  grand  altar  stood  a  large  taoiiy 
apparently  of  solid  silver,  richly  carved  and  ornainaMI- 
ed,  and   over  it   a  high   arbour  of  pine  and  tijiiigl 
branches.     At  the  foot  of  the  cross  stood  a  figure  -^ 
Mary  Magdalen  weeping,  with  her  hair  in  a  profusMii 
of  ringlets,  her  frock  low  in  the  neck,  and  altogethv 
rather  immodest.     On  the  right  was  the  figure  m(  Ae 
Virgin   gorgeously  dressed,   and  in  the   nave  of  the 
church   stood  John   the   Baptist,  placed  there,   as  it 
seemed,  only   because  they  had  the   figure  on  han^ 
Very  soon  strains  of  wild  Indian  music  rose  from  At 
other  end  of  the  church,  and  a  procession  advanced, 
headed  by  Indians  with  broad-brimmed  felt  hats,  dark 
cloaks,  and  lighted  wax  candlc^al,  preceding  the  body 
of  the  Saviour  on  a  bier  borne  by  the  cura  and  attend* 
ant  padres,  and  followed  by  Indians  with  long  wax  can* 
dies.     The  bier  advanced  to  the  foot  of  the  cross ;  lad- 
ders were  placed  behind  against  it ;    the  gobernador, 
with  his  long  black  cloak  and  broad-brimmed  felt  hst, 
mounted  on  the  right,  and  leaned  over,  holding  in  his 
hands  a  silver  hammer  and  a  long  silver  spike ;   ao* 
other  Indian  dignitary  mounted  on  the  other  side,  whfle 
the  priests  raised  the  figure  up  in  front  J  the  face  was 
ghastly,  blood  trickled  down  the  cheeks,  the  arms  and 
legs  were   moveable,  and   in   the   side  was   a  gaping 
wound,  with  a  stream  of  blood  oozing  from  it.     The 
back  was  nflixcd  to  the  cross,  the  arms  extended,  spikes 


DBICSMT     FROM     THB     CROSS.  S1& 

dnten  thidngh  the  hands  and  feet,  the  ladders  taken 
iff  and  tbns  the  figure  of  Christ  was  nailed  to  the 


This  over,  we  left  the  ohiirch|  and  passed  two  or  three 
tMnn  m  lisiting.     The  white  population  was  small,  but 
ecfinl  in  character  to  any  in  the  republic ;  and  there  was 
iMudly  a  respectable  family  that  was  not  afflicted  by  the 
outrage  of  Carrera.     We  knew  nothing  of  the  effect  of 
flus  enormity  until  we  entered  domestic  circles.     The 
distress  of  women  whose  nearest  connexions  had  been 
murdered  or  obliged  to  fly  for  their  lives,  and  then  wan- 
dering they  knew  not  where,  those  only  can  realize  who 
can  appreciate  woman's  affection. 

I  was  urged  to  visit  the  widow  of  Molina.  Her  hus- 
band was  but  thirty-five,  and  his  death  under  any  cir- 
eamstances  would  have  been  lamented,  even  by  political 
c&emies.  I  felt  a  painful  interest  in  one  who  had  lived 
fl^ougfa  such  a  scene,  but  at  the  door  of  her  house  I 
^Kipped.  I  felt  that  a  visit  from  a  stranger  must  be  an 
iBtrnsion  upon  her  sorrows. 

In  the  afternoon  we  were  again  seated  with  the  mu- 
lucipality  in  the  church,  to  behold  the  descent  from  the 
cnm.    The  spacious  building  was  thronged  to  suffoca- 
tion, and  the  floor  was  covered  by  a  dense  mass  of 
kneeling  women,  with  turbaned  headdresses,  and  cry- 
ing children  on  their  backs,  their  imaginations  excited 
l^gasdng  at  the  bleeding  figure  on  the  cross ;  but  among 
tbem  all  I  did  not  see  a  single  interesting  face.    A  priest 
ascended  the  pulpit,  thin  and  ghastly  pale,  who,  in  a 
voioe  that  rang  through  every  part  of  the  building, 
preached  emphatically  a  passion  sermon.     Few  of  the 
JndianB  understood  even  the  language,  and  at  times  the 
cries  of  children  made  his  words  inaudible ;  but  the 
dffilling  tones  of  his  voice  played  upon  every  chord  in 


INOIDllTTS     OP    TRA^'CU 

their  hearts ;  and  mothers,  regardless  of  dieir  u 
cries,  sat  motionless,  their  countenances*  fixed  in  U|| 
and  stem  enthusiasm.  It  was  the  same  church,  imdiJt 
could  imagine  them  to  be  the  same  women  who,' Hi  a 
phrensy  and  fury  of  fanaticism,  had  dragged  the  ludi^ 
py  vice-president  by  the  hair,  and  murdered  him^^Hi 
their  hands.  Every  moment  the  excitement  gMk 
stronger.  The  priest  tore  off  his  black  cap,  and  hMh 
ing  over  the  pulpit,  stretched  forward  both  his  aiiiA, 
and  poured  out  a  frantic  apostrophe  to  the  bleeding  4^ 
ure  on  the  cross.  A  dreadful  groan,  almost  curdHig 
the  blood,  ran  through  the  church.  At  this  moment, lit 
a  signal  from  the  cura,  the  Indians  sprang  upon  the  dh 
hour  of  pine  branches,  tore  it  asunder,  and  with  a  nobe 
like  the  crackling  of  a  great  conflagration,  struggliilg 
and  scuffling  around  the  altar,  broke  into  bits  the  eom^ 
secrated  branches  to  save  as  holy  relics.  Two  IndiMki 
in  broad-brimmed  hats  mounted  the  ladders  on  emSk 
side  of  the  cross,  and  with  embroidered  cloth  over  their 
hands,  and  large  silver  pincers,  drew  out  the  spikes 
from  the  hands.  The  feelings  of  the  women  burst  forth 
in  tears,  sobs,  groans,  and  shrieks  of  lamentation,  «r 
loud  and  deep,  that,  coming  upon  us  unexpectedly,  om 
feelings  were  disturbed,  and  even  with  sane  men  the 
empire  of  reason  tottered.  Such  screams  of  anguish  I 
never  heard  called  out  by  mortal  suffering ;  and  as  die 
body,  smeared  with  blood,  was  held  aloft  under  the  pd- 
pit,  while  the  priest  leaned  down  and  apostrophized  it 
with  frantic  fervour,  and  the  mass  of  women,  wild  with 
excitement,  heaved  to  and  fro  like  the  surges  of  a  tronb- 
led  sea,  the  whole  scene  was  so  thrilling,  so  dreadfiAy 
mournful,  that,  without  knowing  why,  tears  started  fran 
our  eyes.  Four  years  before,  at  Jerusalem,  on  Moittt 
Calvary  itself,  and  in  presence  of  the  scofling  Miissd* 


A    PR0CB88I0V.  8t5 

ttufi,  T  had  beheld  the  same  representation  of  the  de- 

teent  from  the  eross ;  but  the  enthusiasm  of  Greek  pU- 

fpxoB  in  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was  nothing 

compared  with  this  whirlwind  of  fanaticism  and  phren- 

>f.    By  degrees  the  excitement  died  away ;  the  crack- 

mg  of  the  pine  branches  ceased,  the  whole  arbour  was 

broken  up  and  distributed,  and  very  soon  commenced 

preparations  for  the  grand  procession. 

"  ^e  went  out  Avith  the  corregidor  and  officers  of  the 

ttimicipality,  and  took  our  place  in  the  balcony  of  the 

teliildo.  ^The  procession  opened  upon  ns  in  a  manner 

80  eitraordinary,  that,  screening  mj'self  from  observa- 

tk>ii  below,  I  endeavoived  to  make  a  note  of  it  on  the 

^poft    Thb  leader  was  a  man  on  horseback,  called  the 

efenmrion,  wearing  a  helmet  and  cuirass  of  pasteboard 

covered  with  silver  leaf,  a  black  crape  mask,  black  vel- 

tet  ihorts  and  white  stockings,  a  red  sash,  and  blue  and 

ribands  on  his  arms,  a  silvcr-hilted  sword,  and  a 

e^  with  which,  from  time  to  time  turning  round,  he 

beckoned  and  waved  the  procession  on.     Then  came  a 

M  horse,  having  on  its  back  an  old  Mexican  saddle 

tixkilj  plated  with  silver.     Then  two  men  wearing  long 

blue  gowns,  with  round  hoods  covering  their  heads,  and 

living  only  holes  for  the   eyes,  leading  two   mules 

slveast,  covered  with  black  cloth  dresses  enveloping 

their  whole  bodies  to  their  feet,  the  long  trains  of  which 

were  supported  by  men  attired  like  the  other  two. 

Thtn  followed  the  large  silver  cross  of  the  crucifixion, 

'rith  a  richly-ornamented  silver  pedestal,  and  ornaments 

<iBiigling  from  each  arm  of  the  cross  that  looked  like 

iB&tems,  supported  by  four  men  in  long  black  dresses. 

Next  came  a  procession  of  Indiftis,  two  abreast,  wearing 

Jong  black  cloaks,  with  black  felt  hats,  the  brims  six  or 

^ight  inch«»  wide,  all  with   lighted  candles  in  their 


219  INCID1NT8    OF    TRATBU 

hands,  and  then  four  Indians  in  the  same  costume,  Ml 
with  crowns  of  thorns  on  their  heads,  dragging  a  lofl|f 
low  carriage  or  bier  filled  with  pine-leaves,  and  hortaf 
a  naked  scull  laid  on  the.  top  at  one  end. 

Next,  and  in  striking  contrast  with  this  emblem  of 
mortality,  advanced  an  angel  in  the  attitude  of  an  opei^ 
dancer,  borne  on  the  shoulders  of  six  men,  dressed  te 
flounced  purple  satin,  with  lace  at  the  bottom,  gaime 
wings,  and  a  cloud  of  gauze  over  her  head,  holding  111 
her  right  hand  a  pair  of  silver  pincers,  and  in  her  left  m 
small  wooden  cross,  and  having  a  train  of  white  maflBn 
ten  yards  long,  supported  by  a  pretty  little  girl  fiuich* 
fully  dressed.  Then  another  procession  of  Indians  witil 
lighted  candles ;  then  a  group  of  devils  in  horrible  mae^ 
querade.  Then  another  angel,  still  more  like  an  opersh 
dancer,  dressed  in  azure  blue  satin,  with  rich  lace  wings, 
and  clouds,  and  fluttering  ribands,  holding  in  her  rigkl 
hand  a  ladder,  and  in  her  left  a  silver  hammer ;  her 
train  supported  as  before ;  and  we  could  not  help  see- 
ing  that  she  wore  black  velvet  smallclothes.  Then  an- 
other angel,  dressed  in  yellow,  holding  in  her  right  hand 
a  small  wooden  cross,  and  in  the  other  I  could  not  teU 
what. 

The  next  in  order  was  a  beautiful  little  girl  about  ten 
years  old,  armed  cap-a-pie,  with  breastplate  and  helmet 
of  silver,  also  called  the  centurion,  who  moved  along  in 
a  slow  and  graceful  dance,  keeping  time  to  the  musiCi 
turning  round,  stopping,  resting  on  her  sword,  and  wa- 
ving on  a  party  worthy  of  such  a  chief,  being  twelve 
beautiful  children  fancifully  dressed,  intended  to  repre- 
sent the  twelve  apostles ;  one  of  them  carrying  in  faia 
arms  a  silver  cock,  to  signify  that  he  was  the  represent- 
ative of  St.  Peter.  The  next  was  the  great  object  of 
veneration,  the  figure  of  the  Christ  crucified,  on  a  bier, 


AFFLICTIONS    OF    A    CURA.  817 

jn  a  iiill  lengA  ease  of  plate  glass,  strewed  with  rosea 

inaide  and  oat,  and  ptoteoted  by  a  mourning  canopy  of 

^tolack  clpth,  supported  by  men  in  long  black  gowns,  with 

faoods  covering  all  but  the  eyes.     This  was  followed  by 

die  cura  and  priests  in  their  richest  robes  and  barehead* 

if  the  Ruffled  drum,  and  soldiers  with  arms  reversed; 

Virgin  Mary,  in  a  long  black  mourning  dress,  closed 

-miMe  {NTOoeasion.     It  passed  on  to  make  the  tour  of  the 

^fMtj ;   twice  we  intercepted  it,  and  then  went  to  the 

Chaash  of  El  Calvario.     It  stands  on  an  elevation  at  the 

0£^:treme  end  of  a  long  street,  and  the  steps  were  already 

'owded  with  women  dressed  in  white  from  the  head 

the  feet,  with  barely  an  oval  opening  for  the  face. 

IC   was  dark  when  the  procession  made  its  appearance 

^t,   the  foot  of  the  street,  but  by  the  blaze  of  innumera- 

lighted  candles  every  object  was  exhibited  with 

tore  striking  wildness,  and  fanaticism  seemed  written 

letters  of  fire  on  the  faces  of  the  Indians.     Th&  cen* 

tv>f  ioQ  cleared  a  way  up  the  steps ;  the  procession,  with 

^  l<md  chant,  entered  the  church,  and  we  went  away. 

In  the  evening  we  made  several  visits,  and  late  at 

i^ight  we  were  called  to  a  conference  by  some  friends 

^^  the  cura,  and  on  his  behalf.     His  troubles  were  not 

y^t  over.     On  the  day  of  our  arrival  he  had  received  a 

Peremptory  order  from  the  provesor  to  repair  to  Oua- 

^Uittla,  with  notice  that  '^  some  proper  person"  would 

he  appointed  in  his  place.     We  knew  that  the  terms  of 

tike  order  afflicted  the  cura,  for  they  implied  that  he 

Was  not  a  proper  person.     All  Quezaltenango,  he  said, 

ooald  answer  for  his  acts,  and  he  could  answer  to  Ood 

that  his  motives  were  only  to  prevent  the  effusion  of 

blood.     His  house  was  all  in  confusion ;  he  was  pack* 

ing  up  his  books  and  furniture,  and  preparing  to  obey 

tlia  provesor's  order.     But  his  firiends  considered  that 

Vol.  n.— E  e  19 


r 


2ro  IKCIPSNTS    OF    TBAYKIf 

it  was  dangerons  for  him  to  go  to  GiwtiMfau  AX  tinl 
place,  they  aaidy  he  would  be  under  the  ejea  of  Pami 

ra,  who,  meeting  him  in  an  angry  inoment,  might  ooC 
him  down  in  the  street.  If  he  did  not  go,  the  proveior 
would  send  soldiers  after  him,  such  was  the  rigour  of 
church  discipline.  They  wished  him  to  fly  the  oountrj^ 
to  go  with  us  into  Mexico ;  but  he  could  not  leave  witb» 
out  a  passport  from  Guatimala,  and  this  would  be  refi^ 
sed.  The  reason  of  their  unburdening  thema^lYes  to  us 
showed  the  helplessness  of  his  condition.  They  su[^m>» 
sed  that  I  might  have  influence  with  the  provesor,  aod 
begged  me  to  write  to  Guatimala,  and  state  the  facta  as 
they  were  known  to  all  Quezaltenango.  I  had  determia- 
ed  to  take  no  part  in  the  public  or  personal  affiiirs  of  this 
unhappy  revolution,  but  here  I  would  not  have  hesitated 
to  incur  any  trouble  or  risk  to  serve  the  cura  could  it 
have  done  him  any  good ;  but  I  knew  the  sensitiTO- 
ness  of  the  men  in  power,  and  believed  that  the  prove- 
sor and  the  government  would  resent  my  interference. 
I  proposed,  however,  to  write  to  a  friend  who  I  knew 
stood  well  with  the  provesor,  and  request  him  to  call 
upon  that  dignitary  and  state  the  facts  as  from  me  ;  and 
I  suggested  that  he  should  send  some  friend  to  Guati* 
mala  expressly  to  see  the  provesor  in  person.  Re- 
turned to  a  land  of  government  and  laws,  I  can  hard- 
ly realize  that  so  short  a  time  since  I  was  called  in  to 
counsel  for  the  safety  of  a  man  of  the  cura's  char- 
acter and  station.  Relatively,  the  most  respectable 
clergyman  in  our  country  docs  not  stand  higher  than 
he  did. 

The  next  morning  we  were  invited  to  breakfast  with 
another  friend  and  counsellor,  and  about  as  strange  a 
one  as  myself,  being  the  old  lady  who  had  sent  the 
cura  one  hundred  dollars,  before  mentioned.     The  plan 


TWKRU'AL     8PftflfGft. 

-was  disousied  and  Bettled,  and  in  the  course  of  the 

day  twO'  friends  undertook  to  visit  Guatimala  on  the 

emra's  behalf.     We  intended  that  day  to  ascend  the 

^V^olcano  of  Quezaltenango,  but  were  disappointed  in 

our  guide.     In  the  morning  we  made  purchases  and 

jMonsioas  for  continuing  our  journey,  and  as  one  of 

omir  mules'  backs  was  badly  galled,  we  requested  the 

gobemador  to  procure  us  Indian  carriers. 

In  the  afternoon,  in  company  with  the  corregidor,  we 
rode  to  the  warm  springs  of  Almolonga.  The  road 
orosses  a  spur  of  the  volcano,  and  descends  precipitous* 
ly  into  a  deep  valley,  in  which,  about  a  league  distant, 
s^tcuid  the  village  and  hot  springs.  There  is  a  good 
bflt^hing-house,  at  which  we  were  not  allowed  to  pay, 
l>^iiig  considered  the  guests  of  the  city.  Outside,  in  a 
l>^fiutiful  natural  reservoir,  Indian  men,  women,  and 
^^Uldren  were  bathing  together. 

"We  returned  by  another  road,  passing  up  a  valley  of 
^3ct7aordinary  beauty,  and  the  theme  of  conversation 
^*^Gia  the  happiness  the  country  might  enjoy  but  for  wars 
^*^^  revolutions.     Beautiful  as   it  was,  all  wished  to 
^^^ve  it,  and  seek  a  land  where  life  was  safe — Mexico 
<w  £1  Norte.     Toward  evening,  descending  the  spur  of 
^Q  volcano,  we  met  several  hundred  Indians  returning 
from  the  ceremonies  of  the  Holy  Week,  and  exceeding 
in  drunkenness  all  the  specimens  we  had  yet  encoun- 
tered.   In  one  place  a  man  and  woman,  the  latter  with 
a  child  on  her  back,  were  staggering  so  near  the  brink 
of  a  precipice,  that  the  corregidor  dismounted  and  took 
the  child  from  them,  and  made  them  go  before  us  into 
the  town. 

There  was  no  place  we  had  visited,  except  ruined 
eities,  so  unique  and  interesting,  and  which  deserved  to 
be  so  thoroughly  explored,  as  Quezaltenango.    A  month, 


Mi 


no  INCIDENTS     OF    TRATBL. 

at  least,  might  be  satisfactorily  and  profitably  employ^ 
in  examining  the  many  curious  objects  in  the  eountiy 
around.  For  botanical  researches  it  is  the  richest  n* 
gion  in  Central  America.  But  we  had  no  time  e^en 
for  rest. 

I  passed  the  evening  in  writing,  packing  things  to  be 
sent  to  Guatimala,  among  others  my  qnezal,  whieh, 
however,  never  arrived,  and  in  writing  letters,  one  of 
which  was  on  account  of  the  cura,  and  in  which^  in- 
tending, even  if  it  fell  into  wrong  hands,  to  be  out  of 
the  country  myself,  I  spoke  in  no  measured  terms  of  the 
atrocity  committed  by  Carrera. 


JOVRMBT    CONTIMVEO.  W 


CHAPTER  XIII, 

Joanwj  continued.— A  Mountain  Plain.  — Loet  Guides.  — A  trying  Homent  — 
Agua  Calientes.— A  magnificent  View.—  Gold  Ore.—  San  Sebaatiano.—  Gue- 
fiMteoango.— SienB  Madra.— A  Irage  Skeleton.— The  Roina.-^ Pyramidal 
Structurea.— A  VjmU. — Mounda. — A  welcome  Addition. — Interior  of  a  Mound. 
— Vaaea.— Ascent  of  the  Sierra  Madre.— Buena  Vista.— The  Descent.— Todoe 
Santoa.— Sin  Martin.— San  Andrea  Petapan.— A  Foreat  on  Fir«.— SuflEering 
of  the  Mnlaa  from  Swarma  of  Fliea.— San  Antonio  de  Guista. 

Early  in  the  marning  our  mules  were  saddled  for 
tHe  journey.     The  gobernador  and  another  friend  of  the 
cura  came  to  receive  parting  instructions,  and  set  off  for 
Guatimala.     The  Indians  engaged  for  us  did  not  make 
their  appearance ;   and,  desirous  to  save  the  day,  we 
loaded  the  mules,  and  sent  Juan  abd  Bobon  forward 
with  the  luggage.     In  a  little  while  two  women  came 
and  told  us  that  our  Indians  were  in  prison.     I  accom- 
panied them  to  two  or  three  officials,  and  with  much 
difficulty  and  loss  of  time  found  the  man  having  charge 
of  them,  who  said  that,  finding  we  had  paid  them  par^ 
of  their  hire  in  advance,  and  afraid  they  would  buy 
agua  ardiente  and  be  missing,  he  had  shut  them  up  the 
night  before  to  have  them  ready,  and  had  left  word  to 
that  effect  with  one  of  the  servants  of  the  cura«     I  went 
with  him  to  the  prison,  paid  a  shilling  apiece  for  their 
lodging,  and  took  them  over  to  the  convent.     The  poor 
fellows  had  not  eaten  since  they  were  shut  up,  and^  as 
Usual,  wanted  to  go  home  for  tortillas  for  the  journey. 
\Ve  refused  to  let  them  go,  but  gave  them  money  to 
l>uy  some  in  the  plaza,  and  kept  the  woman  and  their 
ohamars  as  hostages  for  their  return.     But  we  became 
"^ired  of  waiting.     Mr.  Catherwood  picked  up  their  cha- 
snars  and  threw  them  across  his  saddle  as  a  guarantee 
for  their  following,  and  we  set  off. 


INCIDBNT8    OF    TEATBIm 

We  had  added  to  our  equipments  aguas  de  anna,  be- 
ing undressed  goatskins  embroidered  with  red  leathor, 
i/riiich  hung  down  from  the  saddlebow,  to  protect  dtt 
legs  against  rain,  and  were  now  fully  accoutred  in 
Central  American  style. 

It  was  cold  and  wintry.     We  ascended  and  cnroased 
a  high  plain,  and  at  the  distance  of  a  league  descended 
to  a  village,  where  we  learned  that  Juan  and  Bobofl 
had  passed  on  some  time  before.     Beyond  this  we  as- 
cended a  high  and  rugged  mountain,  and  on  the  top 
reached  a  magnificent  plain.     We  rode  at  a  brisk  pace, 
and  it  was  one  o'clock  before  our  jailbirds  overtook  os. 
By  this  time  we  were  surprised  at  not  overtaking  ovr 
men  with  the  luggage.     We  could  not  have  passed 
them,  for  there  was  but  one  road.     Since  leaving  the 
village  we  had  not  seen  a  single  person,  and  at  two 
o'clock  we  met  a  man  with  a  loaded  mule  coming  from 
Aguas  Calientes,  the  end  of  our  day's  journey,  who 
had  not  met  them.     Mr.  Catherwood  became  alarmed^ 
fearing  that  they  had  robbed  us  and  run  away.     I  was 
always  careless  with  luggage,  but  never  lost  any,  and 
was  slow  in  coming  to  this  belief.     In  half  an  hour  we 
met  another  man,  who  told  us  that  he  had  not  seen 
them,  and  that  there  was  no  other  road  than  the  one  by 
which  he  came.     Since  our  apprehensions  began,  we 
had  not  been  able  to  discover  any  tracks,  but  went  on 
to  within  two  leagues  of  our  halting-place,  when  we 
stopped,  and  held  one  of  the  most  anxious  consultatioitf 
that  occurred  in  our  whole  journey.     We  knew  but  lit- 
tle of  the  men.     Juan  cheated  us  every  day  in  the  lit- 
tle purchases  for  the  road,  and  we  had  detected  him  in 
the  atrocity  of  keeping  back  part  of  the  money  we  gat« 
him  to  buy  corn  and  sacate,  and  starving  the  mulce. 
After  a  most  unhappy  deliberation,  we  concluded  that 


▲     D  <  L  ■  M  M  A. 

tbe^r  had  broken  open  the  trnnks,  taken  out  the  moneys 
tbrown  the  rest  of  the  contents  down  aome  rarine^ 
i&ounted  the  nrales,  and  made  off.     Besides  money, 
beds,  and  bedding,  these   trunks  contained  all   Mr. 
Catkerwood's  drawings,  and  the  precious  notebooks  to 
whieh  the  reader  is  indebted  for  these  pages.     The 
fruits  of  all  our  labour  were  gone.     In  all  our  difficul- 
ties and  perplexities  we  never  had  a  more  trying  rao« 
tncDt    We  were  two  leagues  from  Aguas  Calientes. 
l^o  go  on,  rouse  the- village,  get  fresh  horses,  and  return 
^  pursuit,  was  our  first  idea  ;  but  this  would  widen  the 
<lisitanee  between  us,  and  probably  we  should  not«be 
*l>le  to  get  horses. 

HVith  hearts  so  heavy  that  nothing  but  the  feeble  hope 
^  catching  them  while  dividing  the  money  kept  us  from 
>>zi.king,  we  turned  back.     It  was  four  o'clock  in  the  af« 
t^S'noon ;  neither  our  mules  nor  we  had  eaten  anything 
Binee  early  in  the  morning.     Night  would  be  upon  us, 
*sk1  it  was  doubtful  whether  our  mules  would  hold  out. 
^^tMt  prisoners  told  us  we  had  been  very  imprudent  to 
^t  the  men  set  out  alcme,  and  took  it  for  granted  that 
Ai^  bad  not  let  slip  the  opportunity  of  robbing  us.     As 
^>^<e  rode  back,  both  Mr.  C.  and  I  brooded  over  an  ap- 
prehension which  for  some  time  neither  mentioned  to 
tbe  other.     It  was  the  letter  I  had  written  on  behalf  of 
the  eunu     We  should  again  be  within  reach  of  Car- 
^f^snu    If  the  letter  by  accident  fell  into  his  hands,  he 
"v^ould  be*  indignant  at  what  he  considered  my  ingrati- 
tude, and  he  could  very  easily  take  his  revenge.     Our 
plans,  however,  were  made  up  at  once.   We  determined, 
Bt  all  events,  not  to  go  back  to  Guatimala,  nor,  broken 
^  We  were  in  fortune  and  spirit,  to  give  up  Palenque, 
^  if  possible,  to  borrow  money  for  the  road,  even  if 
^  Set  out  on  foot;  but,  o  gloru  sternal,  as  the  offi* 


i*- 


8S4  IMCIDIHTB    OF    TRIVSL. 

cial  bulletin  said  of  Carrera's  Ticlory,  on  reaebiog  ths 
top  of  a  mountain  we  saw  the  men  climbing  up  a  deop 
ravine  on  the  other  side.  We  did  not  tell  them  our 
agony,  but  had  not  gone  &s  before  the  Indiana  told  all; 
and  they  were  not  surprised  or  hurt.  How  we  pessed 
them  neither  of  us  knew ;  bat  another  such  a  spaam 
would  hare  put  a  period  to  our  journey  of  life ;  and  from 
that  time,  however  tedious,  or  whatever  might  be  the 
inducements,  we  resolved  to  keep  by  our  luggage.  At 
dusk  we  reached  the  top  of  a  high  mountain,  and  by 
one  of  those  long,  steep,  and  difficult  descents  of  wfaicli 
it  i^  impossible  to  give  the  reader  any  idea,  ent^ed  ^ 
village  of  Agua  Calientes. 

It  was  occupied  entirely  by  Indians,  who  gathered 
round  us  in  the  plaza,  and  by  the  light  of  pine  sticks  look- 
ed at  Carrera's  passport.  Not  one  of  them  could  read 
it,  but  it  was  enough  to  pronounce  the  name,  and  the 
whole  village  was  put  in  requisition  to  provide  us  wiA 
something  to  eat.  The  alcalde  distributed  the  money 
we  gave  him,  and  one  brought  sixpence  worth  of  eggs, 
another  of  beans,  another  of  tortillas,  another  of  lard,  bd. 
other  of  candles,  and  a  dozen  or  more  received  sixpence 
apiece  for  sacate ;  not  one  of  them  would  bring  any- 
thing until  he  had  the  money  in  hand.  A  fire  was  kin- 
dled in  the  square,  and  in  process  of  time  we  bad  sni^ 
per.  Our  usual  supper  of  fried  eggs,  beans,  tortillts, 
and  chocolate,  any  one  of  them  enough  to  disturb  di- 
gestion in  a  state  of  repose,  with  the  excitement  and 
vexation  of  our  supposed  loss,  made  me  ill.  The  oa- 
bildo  was  a  wretched  shed,  full  of  fleas,  with  a  fx»l  nf 
dust  an  inch  thick  to  soften  the  hard  earthen  floor.  It 
waa  too  cold  to  sleep  out  of  doors,  and  there  were  no  pins 
to  bang  hammocks  on,  for  in  this  region  hammocks 
mre  not  used  at  all.    We  made  inquiries  with  the  view, 


A    RUSTIC     BRID6K 

t>f  hiring  for  the  night  the  bedsteads  of  the  principal  in* 

iaUtants,  but  there  was  not  one  in  the  village;  all 

alept  on  the  bosom  of  mother  earth,  and  we  had  part 

of  the  &mily  bed.     Fortunately,  however,  and  most  im- 

j>cnrtaBt  for  us,  our  mules  fiEured  well. 

Early  in  the  morning  we  resumed  our  journey* 
'Jf  Jiere  are  wvm  springs  in  this  neighbourhood,  but  we 
did  not  go  out  of  our  way  to  visit  them.     A  short  dis* 
from  the  village  we  crossed  a  river  and  commen* 
ascending  a  mountain.     On  the  top  we  came  upon 
a>    narrow  table  of  land,  with  a  magnificent  forest  on 
both  sides  fax  below  us.     The  wind  swept  over  the  lofty 
facoight,  so  that  with  our  ponchas,  which  were  necessary 
account  of  the  cold,  it  was  difficult  to  keep  the  sad* 
The  road  was  broken  and  stony,  and  the  track 
rcely  perceptible.     At  about  ten  o'clock  the  whole 
mxface  of  the  mountain  was  a  bare  ridge  of  limestonci 
itttm  whieh  the  sun  was  reflected  with  scorching  heat, 
Uid  the  whiteness  was  dazzling  and  painful  to  the  eyes. 
Below  us,  on  each  side,  continued  an  immense  forest 
^t  gigantic  pines.     The  road  was  perfectly  desolate; 
^e  met  no  travellers.     In  four  hours  we  saw  on  our 
.  1^,  at  a  great  distance  below,  a  single  hacienda,  with 
^  clearing  around  it,  seemingly  selected  for  a  magnifi- 
cent seclusion  from  the  convulsions  of  a  distracted 
^untry.     The  ridge  was  broken  by  gullies  and  deep 
^vines ;  and  we  came  to  one  across  which,  by  way  of 
bridge,  lay  the  trunks  of  two  gigantic  pines.    My  macho 
^ways  pulled  back  when  I  attempted  to  lead  him,  and 
I  remained  on  his  back,  and  was  carried  steadily  over ; 
bnt  at  the  other  end  we  started  at  a  noise  behind  us. 
Our  best  cargo-mule  had  fallen,  rolled  over,  and  hung 
^  the  brink  of  the  precipice,  with  her  feet  kicking  in 
^  air,  kept  from  falling  to  the  bottom  only  by  being 

you  n.— F  F 


INCIDBNT8    OF    TRAVEL. 

entangled  among  bushes.  In  a  moment  we  scraiablad 
down  to  her,  got  her  head  turned  up  the  bank,  andj^ 
means  of  strong  halters  heaved  her  out ;  but  she  wp 
bruised  and  crippled,  and  barely  able  to  stagger  undii 
her  load.  Continuing  along  the  ridge,  swept  by  fiepoc 
blasts  of  wind,  we  descended  again  to  a  river,  rode  aooie 
distance  along  its  bank,  and  passed  a  track  up  the  aidf 
of  a  mountain  on  the  right,  so  steep  that  I  had  no  idap 
it  could  be  our  road,  and  passed  it,  but  was  called  baokr 
It  was  the  steepest  ascent  we  had  yet  had  in  the  cona* 
try.  It  was  cruel  to  push  my  brave  macho,  but  I  haj 
been  tormented  all  day  with  a  yiolent  headache,  Bad 
cottld  not  walk ;  so  I  beat  up,  making  the  best  tack|.| 
oould,  and  stopping  every  time  I  put  about.  C^  Jjp 
top  broke  upon  us  one  of  those  grand  and  magmfic«|it 
views  which,  when  we  had  wiped  off  perspiration  umi 
recovered  breath,  always  indemnified  us  for  our  toiL  ^  It 
was  the  highest  ground  on  which  we  had  yet  stOQ^t 
Around  u^  was  a  sea  of  mountains,  and  peeping  aboTO 
them,  but  so  little  as  to  give  full  effect  to  our  own  gretl 
height,  were  the  conical  tops  of  two  new  volcanoes. 
The  surface  was  of  limestone  rock,  in  immense  strata, 
with  quartz,  in  one  piece  of  which  we  discovered  g 
speck  of  gold.  Here  again,  in  this  vast  wilderness  of 
mountains,  deep  in  the  boweb  of  the  eartli,  arc  thoae 
repositories  of  the  precious  ores  for  which  millions  upon 
millions  all  over  the  world  are  toiling,  bargaining,  cra- 
ving, and  cheating  every  day. 

Continuing  on  this  ridge,  we  came  out  upon  a  spur 
commanding  a  view,  far  below  us,  of  a  cultivated  val- 
ley, and  the  village  of  San  Sebastiano.  Wc  descend- 
ed to  the  valley,  left  the  village  on  our  right,  crossed 
the  spur,  and  saw  the  end  of  our  day^s  journey,  the  town 
of  Gueguetenango,  situated  on  an  extensive  plain,  with 


OUBOUITBN  ANGO.  S97 

a  mild  climate,  luxuriftnt  with  tropical  productions,  sur- 

it)iiiKled  by  immense  mountains,  and  before  us  the  great 

Sierra  Madre,  the  natural  bulwark  of  Central  America, 

tile  grandeur  and  magnificence  of  the  view  disturbed 

oxUj  by  the  distressing  reflection  that  we  had  to  cross 

it.     My  macho,  brought  up  on  the  plains  of  Costa  Rica, 

kttd  long  seemed  poszled  to  know  what  mountains  were 

nadeior ;  if  he  could  have  spoken,  he  would  have  cried 

o«it  in  anguish, 

"Hilk  peep  o'er  hills,  and  Alpe  on  Alps  arise.** 

Our  day's  journey  was  but  twenty-seven  miles,  but  it 
was  harder  for  man  and  beast  than  any  sixty  since  we 
Wt  Guatimala.  We  rode  into  the  town,  the  chief  place 
^  the  last  district  of  Central  America  and  of  the  an- 
<^ittit  kingdom  of  Quiche.  It  was  well  built,  with  a 
bvge  church  or  jriaza,  and  again  a  crowd  of  Mestitzoes 
^eie  engaged  in  the  favourite  occupation  of  fighting 
^^oeks.  As  we  rode  through  the  plaza  the  bell  sounded 
^  the  oracion  or  vesper  prayers.  The  people  fell  on 
their  knees  and  we  took  off  our  hats.  We  stopped  at 
the  house  of  Don  Joaquim  Mon,  an  old  Spaniard  of 
^^^  consideration,  by  whom  we  were  hospitably  re- 
^^ed,  and  who,  though  a  Centralist,  on  account  of 
^<XQe  af&ir  of  his  sons,  had  had  his  house  at  Chiantla 
plundered  by  Carrera's  soldiers.  His  daughters  were 
Compelled  to  take  refuge  in  the  church,  and  forty  or 
fi%  mules  were  driven  from  his  hacienda.  In  a  short 
time  we  had  a  visit  from  the  corregidor,  who  had  seen 
<Hir  proposed  journey  announced  in  the  government 
IMiper,  and  treated  us  with  the  consideration  due  to  per« 

80D8  specially  recommended  by  the  government. 
We  reached  Gueguetenango  in  a  shattered  condition. 

^  cargo-mules  had  their  backs  so  galled  that  it  was 


J.     .  -  I 


imotmrnn^Mk^w  TftAVSL. 


ilirtiiiin§  \o  me-' thMB«;  and  Ih^'jaildfa  hmai  ^iwpiiMi 

road,  had  tooiBed  thebaU  «if  one  4if  Ua  foef  Mbtlwi  In 
ivaa  diaablad,  and  that  night  Jnao'a  aaonaMva:  aapprir 
gaTe  him  an  indigeatioii.  He  was  a  tranendoo^  fpa^ 
ar ;  on  the  J0ad  nothing  eatable ^laaa.aafab  -We4ivad 
him  a  apite  far  pilfering  enr  \mn^,  Jwpd  ?rriifTifing'<i 
down  to  tortiliaay  and  wese  not  tenop  ta  aee  ^■-■jt 
his  back;  but  he  rolled  over  the  floor  oC-tha^eonidfl^ 
"erying  out  uproariously,  so  as  to  disturb  the  whoia 
household,  ^^  Voy  morir  !*'  **  voy  morir !"  "  I  am  goii^ 
to  die!*'  <a  am  going  to* die!"  He  inns  a  haidMb- 
jeettairQvk  upon,  bnt  we  took  him  in  hand- atinngljp^ 
nnd  niloaded'hjm.  .^ 

BasiAw^aiv  immedial«4iffioultiaa,  we  heaad  of 
en  in  proapect  Inconsequence  of  the  tiurong  of 
grants  fiNHtf'Ouatimala  toward  Mexico,  no  ene  W!na#i^ 
mitted  into  that  territory  without  a  passport  firom  GBa- 
dad  Real,  the  capital  of  Chiapas,  four  or  ^^e  if/fi 
journey  from  the  frontier.  The  frontier  was  a  lofH 
line  of  river  in  the  midst  of  a  wilderness,  and  tlpit 
were  two  roads,  a  lower  one  but  little  travelled,  on  i^ 
count  of  the  difficulty  of  crossing  the  rivers,  but  at  t^ 
time  passable*  As  we  intended,  however,  at  aU  evaBU, 
to  stop  at  this  place  for  the  purpose  of  visiting  the  nnUi 
we  postponed  our  decision  till  the  next  day. 

The  next  morning  Don  Joaquim  told  us  of  the  skel- 
eton of  a  colossal  animal,  supposed  to  be  a  mastod^iB, 
which  had  bpen  found  in  the  neighbourhood.  Soma  o( 
the  bones  had  been  collected,  and  were  then  in  tki 
town,  and  having  seen  them,  we  took  a  guide  aad 
walked^to  the  place  where  they  had  been  disooreied, 
on  the  borders  of  Uie  Rio  Chinaca,  about  half  a  nik 
diatant.  -  At  this  time  the  river  waa  low,  J^ut  the  yov 


m 


.r-  ^ 


Boaxs  OF  j^  ]iA»MMoir. 


*  20 


* 

■*  i 

fP 


•  r 


4Mif  iwdled  by  tl^i<iiiiinau0  floods  ctf^M;flpi»y 
ill  il  hM  bunt  ili  boudi,  caniad  aimtjr  its  left  b«Mh|r 
id  kdd  bore  oM  sidia  of  the  skeleton.     The  bwrirviM^ 
MfMdiMtar,  about  tbirty  feel  bigb^eudtbe  aaimidiBd 
kte  bmied  m^ati  vpnglit  poeitioD.  ^  Beridei  tbe  boiMi 
■4fe  towiifSone  had  been  canied  aiwty^y  tbe  flood, 
^BteMBainediqriMded  w  Ihe  earA ;  but^e  «prce* 
ival^tbe  whole  ■■Jwnl^  £rom  twenty^ive  to  tfusty  feel 
)mgi  waadietmctly  visible.    We  ivere '  told  that  about 
i^ingam  above,  on  the  bonk  of  the  same  wef^-^ikm 
Mttbn  of  a  much  larger  aniaoal  had  been  diieoiverarib 
<% i»iffitenwon^iva  vodoto  the  ndniy  which*  in'Ae 
iMBiittc  eaHed  ku  mmm§^  the  oaves.    Thayiia-AbaMl  t 

Ul'a  Isagoe  distant,  on  a  magnificent  {daioviMandaih 
■tts^diitanoe  bylofty  nwiiiOiim,  asmig  wUdh'te^fta 
IPriltfieitm-Madre.  ^  i^'A-Vs.         ^ 

The  site  of  the  ancient  ci(y,  as  at  BMpljfaaiit  avd 

Graa  4A  Qmcb6,  was  chosen  lorNbr  eeeoity  % 

oMemiea*  -  it  wassanroonded  by  a^  nEwne,  and 

character  of  the  rains  is  the  same  as  at  Qni*  «^ 

ijllfhlll-tiie  hand  of  destraction  has  fallen  npmi  it  more 
kurf^ '  The  whois  is  a  cottfosed  hs*p  of  grass-gMwn 
The  principal  remains  aff^  two  pyramidal 
of  thislbtm;  '•'^'  ■        p 


i..!. 


s--^ 


s 


IM  •fthenr  measures  at  the  base  one  hundred  and  two 

iMf 'ttie  stepli  eo^ie  fotir  feet  high  and  seven  feet  deep,  4^"; 

lUMg  tfrti'  whole  height  Iwenty-eight  feet.    l%ey  ar^ 

illif  "but  stone  as  at  Gopta,  but  of  roegh  pieMi  ce* 

iMidt  with  lime,  and  tbe  ^s4ioIe  ntssior  was  Ibtnm'ly 

with  stucco  and  paisied.    Ota  Ike  top  is'  a  small  ^ 

^lallMkn,  aiit^  the  base  lies  a  long  dftb  ^  MNi||lr 


'■*■ 


•\   ^  I. 


kM':: 


fc.    ■ 


BZCATATI0N8.  231 

toperintendent  of  a  cochineal  hacienda  at  Amatitan. 
He  had  heard  of  our  setting  out  for  Mexico,  and,  dis- 
gusted with  his  occupation  and  the  country,  had  mount- 
ed his  horse,  and  with  all  he  was  worth  tied  on  behind 
Ihs  saddle,  pushed  on  to  overtake  us.     On  the  way  he 
had  bought  a  fine  mule,  and  by  hard  riding,  and  chan- 
png  from  •one  animal  to  the  other,  had  reached  us  in 
four  days.     He  was  in  difficulty  about  a  passport,  and 
ms  anxious  to  have  the  benefit  of  mine  in  order  to  get 
out  of  the  country,  offering  to  attach  himself  to  me  in 
any  capacity  necessary  for  that  purpose.     Fortunately, 
r  ray  passport  was  broad  enough  to  cover  him,  and  I  im- 
mediately constituted  him  the  general  manager  of  the 
expedition,  the  material  of  which  was  now  reduced  to 
Joan  sick  jind  but  one  cargo-mule  sound. 

At  nine  o'clock,  attended  by  three  men  and  a  boy 
with  machetes,  being  all  we  could  procure  at  so  short 
a  notice,  we  were  again  among  the  ruins.  We  were 
not  strong  enough  to  pull  down  a  pyramid,  and  lost  the 
moming  in  endeavouring  to  make  a  breach  in  one  of 
<he  sides,  but  did  not  accomplish  anything. 

In  the  afternoon  we  opened  one  of  the  mounds.  The 
iDterior  was  a  rough  coat  of  stones  and  lime,  and  after 
an  hour's  digging  we  came  to  fragments  of  bones  and 
the  two  lower  vases  in  the  plate  opposite.  The  first  of 
the  two  was  entire  when  we  discovered  it,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, was  broken  in  getting  it  out,  though  we  ob- 
tained all  the  pieces.  It  is  graceful  in  design,  the  sur- 
^  is  polished,  and  the  workmanship  very  good.  The 
kt  was  already  broken,  and  though  more  complicated, 
^  surface  is  not  polished.  The  tripod  at  the  top  of 
tke  engraving  is  a  copy  of  the  vase  before  referred  to, 
fcttnd  in  the  tomb,  which  I  procured  from  the  owner  of 
tk  ]and«     It  is  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  and  the  sur- 


BZCATATI0N8.  231 

taperintendent  of  a  cochineal  hacienda  at  Amatitan. 
He  had  heard  of  our  setting  out  for  Mexico,  and,  dis- 
gusted with  his  occupation  and  the  country,  had  mount- 
ed his  horse,  and  with  all  he  was  worth  tied  on  behind 
his  saddle,  pushed  on  to  overtake  us.  On  the  way  he 
had  bought  a  fine  mule,  and  by  hard  riding,  and  chan- 
ging from«one  animal  to  the  other,  had  reached  us  in 
four  days.  He  was  in  difficulty  about  a  passport,  and 
was  anxious  to  have  the  benefit  of  mine  in  order  to  get 
€rat  of  the  country,  offering  to  attach  himself  to  me  in 
any  capacity  necessary  for  that  purpose.  Fortunately, 
my  passport  was  broad  enough  to  cover  him,  and  I  im- 
mediately constituted  him  the  general  manager  of  the 
expedition,  the  material  of  which  was  now  reduced  to 
Juan  sick  juid  but  one  cargo-mule  sound. 

At  nine  o'clock,  attended  by  three  men  and  a  boy 
with  machetes,  being  all  we  could  procure  at  so  short 
a  notice,  we  were  again  among  the  ruins.  We  were 
not  strong  enough  to  pull  down  a  pyramid,  and  lost  the 
morning  in  endeavouring  to  make  a  breach  in  one  of 
the  sides,  but  did  not  accomplish  anything. 

In  the  afternoon  we  opened  one  of  the  mounds.  The 
interior  was  a  rough  coat  of  stones  and  lime,  and  after 
an  hour's  digging  we  came  to  fragments  of  bones  and 
the  two  lower  vases  in  the  plate  opposite.  The  first  of 
the  two  was  entire  when  we  discovered  it,  but,  unfor- 
tunately, was  broken  in  getting  it  out,  though  we  ob- 
tained all  the  pieces.  It  is  graceful  in  design,  the  sur- 
face is  polished,  and  the  workmanship  very  good.  The 
last  was  already  broken,  and  though  more  complicated, 
the  surface  is  not  polished.  The  tripod  at  the  top  of 
the  engraving  is  a  copy  of  the  vase  before  referred  to, 
found  in  the  tomb,  which  I  procured  from  the  owner  of 
-the  land«     It  is  twelve  inches  in  diameteri  and  the  8ur« 


IMCl»flirT«    #r.VAATXI.. 


m  poUwhrd  vWrn  dmMmmnA  nd. 
4^g  wok  mtlhMift  fiatewiimg^Midrnti 
ted  Aftt  wi»  had  ttot  tia«  tk»  coqiiMe 
f    Iti  fhe  mem  thiM  Don  Jtm^aim  bti^umim 
ments  k»  ni^  and  the  next  morning  ^re  i^i  Hinnml 
joumeyft.  ■  We  left  bekind  «  mulei  a  hoiaei  and 
and  were  iei«n£ilroed  by  Pawlingy  well 
armed  with  a  pair  of  pietoli»  and  aahortdoul 
^  gun  ilung  to  his  saddle-bowi  and  SantiagOt  a 
ican  fugitive  soldier.     Juan  was  an  interesting 
mounted  on  a  mule,  and  the  whole  was  undsr  eaeoiBl  of 
a  respeotahli  old  muleteer,  who  was  seltiag  out  wiib^ 
ampty  mules  to  bring  back  a  loadr  of  sogar.   .  .^• 

At  a  short  distance  from  the  Tillagswie  eooumniMd 
ascending  the  Sierra  Madre.  The  first  range  waa  stony^ 
and  on  the  top  of  it  we  came  upon  a  oultiyataA  jdain, 
beyond  which  rose  a  seeond  range,  covered  with  a  thiefc 
fef  est  of  oak.  On  the  top  of  this  range  stood  a  csoss^ 
The  i|>ot  was  sailed  Buena  Vista,  oar  Fiae  ]f  jew,  and 
aommanded  a  magnificent  expanse  of  moa|||p0a  9md 
plains,  five  lakes  and  two  volcanoes,  one  ef -wfaiah, 
called  Tujamulco,  our  guide  said  was  a  water  volcano. 
Beyond  this  rose  a  third  range.  At  some  Htstamm 
^ip  was  an  Indian  rancho,  at  which  a  fine  little  bey 
thrust  his  face  through  a  bush  fence,  and  said  ''  adios^V 
to  every  one  that  passed.  Beyond  was  another  boy^ 
to  whom  we  all  in  succession  said  ^^  adios,"  but  the 
surly  little  fellow  would  not  answer  one  of  us.  Oa 
the  summit  of  this  range  we  were  almost  on  a  leval'* 
with  the  tops  of  the  volcanoes.  As  we  ascended  t|M|M 
temperature  grew  colder,  and  we  were  compelled  to  pi§K^ 
on  our  ponchas.  At  half  past  two  we  reached  the 
of  the  Sierra  Madre,  the  dividing  line  of  the  waters, 
ing  twelve  miles  from  Guegiietenango,  and  in  our 
vious  course   making   the  second  tinie  that   we  hi 


THE    8IIRRA    MADRE.  SSS 

crossed  the  siernu     The  ridge  of  the  mountain  was  a 
long  level  table  about  half  a  mile  wide^  with  rugged 
sides  rising  on  the  right  to  a  terrific  peak.     Riding 
about  half  an  hour  on  this  table,  by  the  side  of  a  stream  of 
clear  and  eold  water,  which  passed  on,  carrying  its  trib- 
ute to  the  Pacific  pcean,  we  reached  a  miserable  ranoho, 
in  front  of  which  the  arriero  proposed  to  encamp,  as  he 
said  it  would  be  impossible  to  reach  the  next  village. 
At  a  distance  it  was  a  glorious  idea,  that  of  sleeping  on 
^the  top  of  the  Bierra  M«dre,  and  the  scene  was  wild 
-enough  for  the  most  romantic  imagination ;  but,  being 
^-poorlyprovided  against  cold,  we  would  have  gladly  ex* 
^changed  it  for  an  Indian  village. 

The  occupants  of  the  hut  were  a  man  and  woman, 

rho  lived  there  rent  free.     Like  the  eagle,  they  had 

[ed  dieir  habitation  where  they  were  not  likely  to  be 

^^vlisturbed.     While  the  men  were  unloading,  Juan,  as 

invalid,  asked  pernussion  to  stretch  his  huge  body 

Tore  the  fire,  but  the  woman  told  him  there  was  more 

"^MK>m  out  of  doors.     I  succeeded,  however,  in  securing 

-^^lim  a  place  inside.     We  had  an  hour  to  wander  over 

^ihe  top  of  the  sierra.     It  belonged  to  our  friend  Don 

^oaquim  Monte,  and  was  what  would  be  called  at  home 

^Ci  pretty  substantial  piece  of  fiast  property.    At  every  step 

there  was  some  new  opening,  which  presented  a  new 

^ew  of  the  grand  and  magnificent  in  nature.     In  many 

"placesi  between  cliffs  and  under  certain  exposures,  were 

£ne  pieees  of  ground,  and  about  half  a  mile  distant  a 

^K>traK>  or  pasture-ground  'for  brood  mares,  which  we 

^visited  to  buy  some  corn  for  our  mules.     A  vicious  jack 

deigned  lord  of  the  sierra. 

Adjoining  the  occupied  hut  was  another  about  ten 
feet  square,  made  of  small  upright  poles,  thatched  with 
tNMichea.of  cypress,  and  open  on  all  sides  to  the  wind* 
Vol.  It— G  o 


INCIDINT8    OP    TR4TBL. 

village  of  San  Martin,  wbichi  with  loveliness  and  gcan- 
deur  all  around  ns,  might  have  been  selected  for  its  sur- 
passing beauty  of  position.  We  rode  to  the  cabildo, 
and  then  to  the  hut  of  the  alcalde.  The  people  wero 
all  Indians ;  the  secretary  was  a  bare-legged  boy,  who 
spelled  out  every  word  in  thepassport  except  our  names; 
but  his  reading  sufficed  to  procure  supper  for  us  aad 
provender  for  the  mules,  and  early  in  the  morning  we 
pushed  on  again. 

For  some  distance  we  rode  on  a  lofty  ridge,  with  a 
precipitous  ravine  on  each  side,  in  one  place  so  nancnr 
that,  as  our  arriero  told  us,  when  the  wind  is  high 
there  is  danger  of  being  blown  off.     We  continued  de- 
scending, and  at  a  quarter  past  twelve  reached  San 
Andres  Petapan,  fifteen  miles  distant,  blooming  with 
oranges,  sapotes,  and  Other  fruit  trees.     Passing  thioiigh 
the  village,  at  a  short  distance  beyond  we  were  stopped 
by  a  fire  in  the  woods.     We  turned  back,  and  attempt- 
ed to  pass  by  another  road,  but  were  unable.     Before 
we  returned  the  fire  had  reached  the  place  we  left, 
and  increased  so  fast  that  we  had  apprehensions  for 
the   luggage-mules,  and  hurried   them  back  with  the 
men  toward  the  village.     The  flames   came  creeping 
and  crackling  toward  us,  shooting  up  and  whirled  by 
currents  of  wind,  and  occasionally,  when  fed  with  dry 
and  combustible  materials,  flashing  and  darting  along 
like  a  train  of  gunpowder.     We  fell  back,  keeping  as 
near  as  we  could  to  the  line  of  fire,  the  road  lying  along 
the  side  of  a  mountain ;  while  the  fire  came  from  the 
ravine  below,  crossing  the  road,  and  moving  upward. 
The  clouds  of  smoke  and  ashes,  the  rushing  of  currents 
of  wind  and  flames,  the  crackling  of  burning  branches, 
and  trees  wrapped  in  flames,  and  the  rapid  progress  of 
the  destroying  clement,  made  such  a  wild  and  iearful 


A    PORS0T    ON     PIRB.    •  897 


• 


^sne  that  we  tiouid  not  tear  ouneWes  away.    At 
le^xmgth  we  saw  the  flames  rush  up  the  aide  of  the  ra» 
e,  intercepting  the  path  before  us.     We  spurred  our 
I  shot  by,  and  in  a  moment  the  whole  was  a 
ilm^et  of  flame..    The  fire  was  now  qpreading  so  nqpid- 
If     that  we  became  alarmed,  and  hurried  back  to  the 
d^virchy  which,  on  an  elevation  strongly  defined  against 
th^  immense  mountain  in  the  background,  stood  before 
^iB    as  a  place  of  refuge.     By  this  time  the  villagers 
bad  become  alarmed,  and  men  and  women  were  bur- 
ning to  the  lieight  to  watch  the  progress  of  the  flames. 
The  village  was  in  danger  of  conflagration ;  it  would 
^  impossible  to  urge  the  loaded  mules  up  the  hill  we 
i^  descended,  and  we  resolved  to  deposite  the  luggage 
^  the  church,  and  save  the  mules  by  driving  them  up 
^Uihnrdened.     It  was  another  of  those  wild  scenes  to 
^Uch  no  effect  can  be  given  in  words.     We  stopped 
^ti  the  brow  of  the  hill  before  the  square  of  the  church, 
^d  while  we  were  watching  the  fire,  the  black  clouds 
^tid  sheets  of  flame  rolled  up  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
^^d  qpared  the  village.     Believed  from  apprehension, 
^e  sat  down  under  a  tree  in  front  of  the  church  to  the 
^^alm  enjoyment  of  the  terrific  spectacle  and  a  cold  fowl. 
^The  cinders  and  ashes  fell  around,  and  the  destructive 
element  rushed  on,  sparing  the  village  before  us,  per- 
haps to  lay  some  other  in  ruins. 

We  were  obliged  to  wait  two  hours.  From  the  foot 
of  the  hill  on  which  the  village  stood  the  ground  was 
hot  and  covered  with  a  light  coat  of  ashes ;  the  brush 
^nd  underwood  were  burned  away ;  in  some  places 
'vrere  lying  trees  reduced  to  masses  of  live  coal,  and 
others  were  standing  with  their  trunks  and  branches 
^U  on  fire.  In  one  place  we  passed  a  square  of  white 
^*hes|  the  lyiaains  of  some  miserable  Indian  hut.    Our 


238  'iNCIDBNTS    or    TEAVEL. 


• 


faces  and  hands  were  scorched,  and  onr  whole  bodies 
heated  when  we  emerged  firom  the  fiery  forest.     For 
a  few  moments  the  open  air  was  delightful;  but  we 
were  hardly  out  of  one  trouble  before  we  had  another. 
Swarms  of  enormous  flies,  perhaps  drifen  out  by  the 
fire,  and  hovering  on  the  borders  of  the  burned  dis- 
trict, fell  upon  the  mules.     Every  bite  drew  blood,  and 
the  tormentors  clung  to  the  suffering  animals  until  brush- 
ed off  by  a  stick.     For  an  hour  we  laboured  hard,  but 
could  not  keep  their  heads  and  necks  free.     The  poor 
beasts  were  almost  frantic,  and,  in  spite  of  all  we  coold 
do,  their  necks,  the  inside  of  their  legs,  mouths,  eart, 
nostrils,  and  every  tender  part  of  their  skin,  were  tridk- 
ling  with  blood.     Hurrying  on,  in  three  hours  we  saw 
the  Church  of  San  Antonio  de  Giiista,  and  in  a  few  min- 
utes entered  the  village,  beautifully  situated  on  a  table- 
land projecting  from  the  slope  of  a  mountain,  look- 
ing upon  an  immense  opening,  and  commanding  on  all 
sides  a  magnificent  view.     At  this  time  we  were  beyond 
the  reach  of  war,  and  free  from    all   apprehensions. 
With  the  addition  of  Pawling's  pistols  and  double-bar- 
relled gun,  a  faithful  muleteer,  Santiago,  and  Juan  on 
his  legs  again,  we  could  have  stormed  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, and  locked  up  a  refractory  alcalde  in  his  own  ca- 
bildo.     We  took  possession  of  San  Antonio  de  Guista, 
dividing  ourselves  between  the  cabildo  and  the  convent, 
sent  for  the  alcalde  (even  on  the  borders  of  Central 
America  the  name  of  Carrera  was  omnipotent),  and 
told  him  to  stay  there  and  wait  upon  us,  or  send  an 
alguazil.     The  convent  stood  adjoining  the  church,  on 
an  open  table  of  land,  commanding  a  view  of  a  magnif- 
icent valley  surrounded  by  immense  mountains,  and  on 
the  left  was  a  vista  between  two  mountain  ranges,  wild, 
^gS^^f  uid  lofty,  losing  their  tops  in  clouds.     Beft^e 


BAV     AHTOKIO     BB     OVI8TA.  tSO 

the  door  of  the  convent  was  a  large  cross  on  a  high 
pedestal  of  stone,  with  the  coating  decayed,  and  cover- 
ed with  wild  flowers.  The  convent  was  enclosed  by  a 
brush  fence,  without  any  opening  until  we  made  one. 
The  padre  was  not  at  home,  which  was  Tetf  fortunate 
for  him,  as  there  would  not  have  been  room  enough  for 
us  all.  In  fact,  everything  seemed  exactly  intended  for« 
our  party ;  there  were  three  beds,  just  as  many  as  we 
could  conveniently  occupy ;  and  the  style  of  them  was 
new :  they  were  nmde  of  long  sticks  about  an  inch 
thick,  tied  with  bark  strings  at  top  and  bottom,  and 
resting  on  crotches  about  two  feet  high,  driven  into  the 
dirt  floor. 

The  alcalde  and  his  major  had  roused  the  village. 
In  a  few  moments,  instead  of  the  mortifying  answer 
'^oo  hay,"  there  is  none,  the  provision  made  for  us  was 
almost  equal  to  the  offers  of  the  Turkish  paradise. 
Twenty  or  thirty  women  were  in  the  convent  at  one 
time,  with  baskets  of  corn,  tortillas,  dolces,  plantains, 
hocotes,  sapotes,  and  a  variety  of  other  fruits,  each  one's 
stock  in  trade  being  of  the  value  of  three  cents;  and 
among  them  was  a  species  of  tortillas,  thin  and  baked 
hard,  about  twelve  inches  in  diameter,  one  hundred  and 
twenty  for  six  cents,  of  which,  as  they  were  not  expen- 
sive, we  laid  in  a  large  supply. 

At  this  place  our  muleteer  was  to  leave  us.  We  had 
but  one  cargo-mule  fit  for  service,  and  applied  to  the 
alcalde  for  two  carriers  to  go  with  us  across  the  frontier 
to  Comitan.  He  went  out,  as  he  said,  to  oon^t  with 
the  mozos,  and  told  us  that  they  asked  six  dollars  apiece. 
We  spoke  to  him  of  our  friend  Carrera,  and  on  a  sec* 
end  consultation  the  demand  was  reduced  by  two  thirds. 
We  were  obliged  to  make  provision  for  three  days,  and 
even  to  carry  corn  for  the  mules ;  and  Juan  (god  San- 
tiago liad  it  busy  night,  boiling  fowls  and  e| 


»    ^ 


■ 


Thb  AeiBt  morning  wtfVbimd  tlwtitalNMjtlMMfD 
£9ftaUe9  W6  were  so  abtmdiaifly  mxTBd^  ^  ilmJ tojtf 
HiB  mfljor^  staff  ji^bandi  being 'te  ouustaMr 
and  the  sitnatioa  so  beautifiDil,  that  we 
ry  to  go;lJtt  thift'  alcdde  told  «i  ttM  itt  fPM  Milfl 
We  did  not  see  our  earri^rs^  aikHboM  fkatM  aieiMtf 
major  were  th^  mosos%liom'  hd  had  eooMlML'  ^'Iflly 
oonld  not  let  slip  tifo  dolkm  ttpteoe^and  hyUgdiWi 
their  staves  and  dignity,  bared  ttmil'  becksi  pkoed  4t 
straps  across  their  foreheads,  took  np  the^ldadSi'SBi 
trotted  off.  v 

We  staffed  at  five  minutes  before  eight;  Th&weflik* 
er  was  fine,  but  hnxf.  From  the  village 'we  desoiftJWt 
a  hill  to  an  extensive  stony  plain,  and  at  about  m  leaguW 
distance  reached  the  brink  of  a  precipice,  from  wUA 
we  looked  down  into  a  rich  oblong  valley,  two  or  Ares 
thousand  feet  deep,  shut  in  au  around  by  a  mountlin 
wall,  and  seeming  an  immense  excavation.^  Tcmaid 
the  diBier  end  of  the  valley  was  a  village  idM^^  naat&i 
church,  and  the  road  led  xxp  a  precipitdbs  aioeiil  'to  to 
plain  on  the  same  level  with  fbat  on  wfaieMfrto  aloodi 
nodnlating  and  boundless  as  %e  sea.  Btlt^  ufit 
seemed  ^  if  we  could  drop  a  stcme  t^he  bettAm^ '  W^* 
descenM  by  one  of  the  steepest  and  most  stony  pctM 
)u4«tf«»<»iiiUMd  in  the  «<Mnti7^«ttMiM. 


A: 


V 


Ttorossing  in  m  sigsag  course  along  the  side  of  the  height, 
perhaps  mahing  the  descent  a  mile  and  a  half  long. 
Very  soon  we  reaehed  the  bank  of  a  beautiful  river, 
ffHnning  lengthwise  throu^  the  valleyi  bordered  on  each 
side  by  immense  trees,  throwing  their  branches  clear 
•erosB,  and  their  roots  washed  by  the  stream ;  and  while 
like  ]dain  beyond  was  dry  and  parched,  they  were  green 
asid  iuzoriant.  Riding  along  it,  we  reached  a  suspension 
htidge  of  most  primitive  appearance  and  construction, 
oalled  by  the  natives  La  Hammaca,  which  had  exist- 
fd  there  from  time  immemorial.  It  was  made  of  oziers 
twisted  into  cords,  about  three  feet  apart,  and  stretch- 
jMI  across  the  river  with  a  hanging  network  of  vines, 
Ae  ends  Cnstened  to  the  trunks  of  two  opposite  trees. 
tt  hnng  about  twenty-five  feet  above  the  river,  which 
nva  here  some  eighty  feet  widci  and  was  supported  in 
different  places  by  vines  tied  to  the  branches.  The  ac- 
CMs  was  by  a  rude  ladder  to  a  platform  in  the  crotch 
of  the  tree.  In  the  bottom  of  the  hammaca  were  two 
tir  three  poles  to  walk  on.  It  waved  with  the  wind, 
and  was  an  unsteady  and  rather  insecure  means  of 
transportation.  From  the  centre  the  vista  of  the  river 
both  ways  under  the  arches  of  the  trees  was  beautiful, 
and  in  every  direction  the  hammaca  was  a  most  pic- 
turesque-looking object.  We  continued  on  to  the  vil- 
lage, and  after  a  short  halt  and  a  smoke  with  the  al- 
calde, rode  on  to  the  extreme  end  of  the  valley,  and  by 
a  steep  and  stony  ascent,  at  twenty  minutes  past  twelve 
reached  the  level  ground  above.  Here  we  dismounted, 
slipped  the  bridles  of  our  mules,  and  seated  ourselves 
to  wait  for  our  Indians,  looking  down  into  the  deep  im- 
bosomed  valley,  and  back  at  the  great  range  of  Cordil- 
leras, crowned  by  the  Sierra  Madre,  seeming  a  barrier 
fit  to  separate  worlds. 

Vol.  n.— H  h  21 


Free  hem  «U «ppt  JliilMiil, ^WMliawi  Mi»  i»<h»*< 
ttqojnoBnt  of  the  wild  oootqr  wmA  ^U-maim  wi'Wm 
elUng.  But  oar  poor  Indten%']i«rfaa|i»,diA'D«^flnjifk 
M  much.  Tha  nsnal  load  iMw-irMB  doM  taiiV  «nM 
bai,  BBTSal^-fiTB  to  one  hnndzed  ittiriiBJtjj  ^^An^iMV 
not  flvne  tfaut  fift^ ;  but  tbe  smftt  uUoA  te<*MiMi 
down  tfaeir  uked  bodies,  wmI  eve^  Jnb--<MaaUlA 
Aftei  a.  short  leM  they  ituted  again.  ™-  f^fTB 
hot  and  mltry,  the  grouiMl  diy,  parafaed,  end  elMVt 
We  had  two  iharp  deacenta,  and  naahad  Ae  JUm 
DoloreB.  On  both  aidei  warn  Jarga  tnaa,  ^BaiWDye 
beautiful  shade,  which,  aftei  opr  sooNhiiig  jidaf^M 
found  delightful.  The  rivei  was  about  three  huudial 
feet  broad.  In  the  rainy  season  it  is  impaaeable,  bat  Jk 
tbe  dry  season  not  more  than  three  or  foor  feet  deqi 
very  clear,  and  the  colour  a  grayish  green,  pn^mUy 
from  the  reflection  of  the  trees.  We  had  had  no  waW 
since  we  left  the  suspension  bridge,  and  both  our  males 
and  we  were  intemperate. 

We  remained  here  half  an  hour  ;  and  now  appreh^ 
sions,  which  had  been  operating  more  or  less  all  thi 
time,  made  ua  feel  very  uncomfortable.  We  were  i^ 
preaching,  and  very  near,  the  frontier  of  Mexico.  TUt 
road  was  so  little  travelled,  that,  as  we  were  advisod, 
there  was  no  regular  guard ;  but  piquets  of  soldiers  woe 
scouring  the  whole  line  of  frontier  to  prevent  snnif- 
gling,  who  might  consider  ua  contraband.  Our  pai^ 
ports  were  good  for  going  out  of  Central  America ;  W 
to  go  into  Mexico,  the  passport  of  the  Mexican  autbo^ 
ties  at  Ciudad  Heal,  four  days'  joncnejr,  was  naeeMW?- 
Tarning  back  was  not  in  our  Vttcabulary ;  piAtp  «• 
ahooid'bB  obliged  to  wait  in  the  vildanuas  tU  wa  ogtf 
•end  tot  one,  .  r 

Zn  half  an  hour  wa  reached  the  9»a  LageitaiOk  Ih* 


•4/ 


tandwy-liM  between  Ghmtimala  and  Mexico,  a  eoene 
ef  wild  aad  mzpeaBiiig  beenty,  with  banks  shaded  by 
MBBe  of  the  noblest  trees  of  the  tropical  forests,  water 
as  idear  as  erystai,  and  fish  a  foot  Img  playing  in  it  as 
§BBtly  as  if  there  were  no  fish-hooks.  No  soldiers  -vere 
wAIe ;  all  was  as  desolate  as  if  no  hnman  being  had 
eiwsr  crossed  the  boundary  before.  We  had  a  mo- 
ment's consultation  on  which  side  to  encamp,  and  de- 
tsvmined  to  make  a  lodgment  in  Mexico.  I  was  riding 
Bswling's  horse,  and  spurred  him  into  the  water,  to  be 
fha  first  to  touch  the  soil.  With  one  plunge  his  fore- 
Iset  were  off  the  bottom,  and  my  legs  under  water. 
Por  an  instant  I  hesitated ;  but  as  the  water  rose  to  my 
holsters  my  enthusiasm  gave  way,  and  I  wheeled  back 
into  Central  America.  As  we  afterward  found,  the 
water  was  ten  or  twelve  feet  deep. 
-  We  waited  for  the  Indians,  in  some  doubt  whether  it 
would  be  possible  to  cross  at  all  with  the  luggage.  At  a 
short  distance  above  was  a  ledge  of  rocks,  forming  rap- 
ids, over  which  there  had  been  a  bridge  with  a  wooden 
apch  and  stone  abutments,  the  latter  of  which  were  still 
standing,  the  bridge  having  been  carried  away  by  the 
rising  of  the  waters  seven  years  before.  It  was  the  last 
of  the  dry  season ;  the  rocks  were  in  some  places  dry, 
tlia  body  of  the  river  running  in  channels  on  each  side, 
and  a  log  was  laid  to  them  from  the  abutments  of  the 
bridge.  We  took  off  the  saddles  and  bridles  of  the 
mules,  and  cautiously,  with  the  water  breaking  rapidly 
up  to  the  knees,  carried  everything  across  by  hand ;  an 
operation  in  which  an  hour  was  consumed.  One  night's 
rain  on  the  mountains  would  have  made  it  impassable. 
The  mules  were  then  swum  across,  and  we  were  all 
landed  safely  in  Mexico. 

On  the  bank  opposite  the  place  where  I  attempted  to 


mom  was  a  aemioirciilai  dearingi  fromiriiiah 
opening  was  the  padi  Isaduig  into  this  Mezioaa 
inces.  We  dosed  tUs  q^  and  turned  the  mnlea 
hung  OUT  tr^M  on  the  trees,  and  biTouaehed  im  the 
tre.  The  noen  built  a  fire,  and  while  they  were 
ring  supper  we  went  down  to  the  riTsr  to  bathe, 
rapids  were  breaking  above  ust  The  wildness  of  .^ 
scene,  its  seclusion  and  remoteness,  the  ckam^ 
water,  the  sense  of  having  accomplished  an  im 
part  of  our  journey,  all  revived  our  physical  and 
being.  Clean  apparel  consummated  the  glory  oC  lit 
bath.  For  several  days  our  digestive  organs  had  baai 
out  of  order,  but  when  we  sat  down  to  supper  thaf 
could  have  undertaken  the  bridles  of  the  mules ; 
my  brave  macho — ^it  was  a  pleasure  to  hear  him  era 
his  corn.  We  were  out  ctf  Central  America,  safe 
the  dangers  of  revolution,  and  stood  on  the  wild  bordsH 
of  Mexico,  in  good  health,  with  good  appetites,  aad 
something  to  eat.  We  had  still  a  tremendous  jourMQl 
before  us,  but  it  seemed  nothing.  We  strode  the  linh 
clearing  as  proudly  as  the  conquerors  of  Mexico,  aa^ 
in  our  extravagance  resolved  to  have  a  fish  for  hrnahi 
fast.  We  had  no  hooks,  and  there  was  not  even  a  pii 
in  our  travelling  equipage ;  but  we  had  needles  aad 
thread.  Pawling,  with  the  experience  of  seven  yean' 
'^  roughing,"  had  expedients,  and  put  a  needle  in  Ihi 
fire,  which  softened  its  temper,  so  that  he  bent  it  intoa 
hook.  A  pole  was  on  every  tree,  and  we  could  see  ths 
fish  in  the  water ;  all  that  we  wanted  was  for  them  lo 
open  their  mouths  and  hook  themselves  to  the  needle  I 
but  this  they  would  not  do,  and  for  this  reason  alone 
we  did  not  catch  any.  We  returned.  Our  men  eH 
some  poles,  and  resting  them  in  the  crotch  of  a  tree,  ooVi 
ered  them  with  branches.     We  q>read  our  mats  under, 


£    CffVROB    IK    B1MV8.  M6 

mSA  our  iraof  and  beds  were  reedy.  The  men  piled  logs 
ef  wood  on  the  fire,  and  our  sleep  was  sound  and  glo« 
floiu. 

At  daylight  the  next  morning  we  were  again  in  the 
wiater.  Our  bath  was  eyen  better  than  that  of  the  night 
belbre,  and  when  I  mounted  I  felt  able  to  ride  through 
Mexico  and  Texas  to  my  own  door  at  home.  Returned 
eBee  more  to  steamboats  and  railroads,  how  flat,  tame, 
sad  insipid  all  their  comforts  seem. 
'  Wc  started  at  half  past  seven.  At  a  very  short  dis* 
tuce  three  wild  boars  crossed  our  path,  all  within  gun- 
Aot ;  but  our  men  carried  the  guns,  and  in  an  instant 
it  was  too  late.  Very  soon  we  emerged  from  the  woods 
tlmt  bordered  the  river,  and  came  out  into  an  open 
jriain.  At  half  past  eight  we  crossed  a  low  stony  hill 
and  came  to  the  dry  bed  of  a  river.  The  bottom  was 
fkt  and  baked  hard,  and  the  sides  smooth  and  regular 
as  those  of  a  canal.  At  the  distance  of  half  a  league 
water  appeared,  and  at  half  past  nine  it  became  a  con« 
sUerable  stream.  We  again  entered  a  forest,  and  ri- 
Ung  by  a  narrow  path,  saw  directly  before  us,  closing 
the  passage,  the  side  of  a  large  church.  We  came  out, 
and  saw  the  whole  gigantic  building,  without  a  single 
habitation,  or  the  vestige  of  one,  in  sight.  The  path  led 
across  the  broken  wall  of  the  courtyard.  We  dis- 
mounted  in  the  deep  shade  of  the  front.  The  facade 
was  rich  and  perfect.  It  was  sixty  feet  front  and  two 
bondred  and  fifty  feet  deep,  but  roofless,  with  trees 
growing  out  of  the  area  above  the  waUs.  Nothing  could 
exceed  the  quiet  and  desolation  of  the  scene ;  but  there 
was  something  strangely  interesting  in  these  roofless 
churches,  standing  in  places  entirely  unknown.  San- 
tiago told  us  that  this  wns  called  Conata,  anJ  the  tradi- 
tion  is,  that  it  was  once  so  rich  that  the  inhabitants  car* 


iifoiPBJiTa   OF   9:MArmL. 

their  water-jars  bysilken  oaida. .  Gimgour 
to  Santiago,  we  entered  the  opes  door  of  the  chiwt^ 
The  altar  was  thrown  down,  the  roof  lay  io  farahna 
maases  on  the  ground,  and  the  whole  area  waa  a  fomt 
of  trees.  At  the  foot  of  the  church,  and  connected  in|k 
it,  was  a  convent.  There  waa  no  roci^  bat  the  sfiBMr 
ments  were  entire  as  when  a  good  padre  stood  to  wii^ 
come  a  traveller.  In  front  of  the  church,  on  each  sjilbi 
was  a  staircase  leading  up  to  a  belfry  in  the  eentra4|( 
the  fafade.  We  ascended  to  the  top.  The  bells  wliWi 
had  called  to  matin  and  vesper  prayers  were  gpne;  tb 
crosspiece  was  broken  from  the  cross.  The  stoas.^t 
the  belfry  was  solid  masses  of  petrified  shells,  wohm, 
leaves,  and  insects.  On  one  side  we  looked  down  iato 
the  roofless  area,  and  on  the  other  over  a  regian  sf 
waste.     One  man  had  written  his  name  there : 

Joaqnim  BodriguM, 

Conata,  Majo  !•,  1836. 

We  wrote   our  names   under   his   and   descendedl, 
mounted,  rode  over   a   stony   and   desolate   counter, 
crossed  a  river,  and  saw  before  us  a  range  of  hiUs,  vai 
beyond  a  range  of  mountains.     Then  we  came  upon  s 
bleak  stony  table,  and  after  riding  four  hours  and  s 
half,  saw  the  road  leading  across  a  barren  mountain  oo 
our  right,  and,  afraid  we  had  missed  our  way,  halted 
under  a  low  spreading  tree  to  wait  for  our  men.    We 
turned  the  mules  loose,  and  after  waiting  some  time, 
sent    Santiago   back    to    look    for    them.     The   wiwi 
was  sweeping  over  the  plain,  and  while  Mr.  Gather- 
wood  was  cutting  wood,  Pawling  and  I   descended 
to  a  ravine  to  look  for  water.     The  bed  was  entirely 
dry,  and  one  took  his  course  up  and  the  other  down. 
Pawling  found  a  muddy  hole  in  a  rock,  wliich,  even 
to  thirsty  men,  was  not  tempting.     We  returned,  and 


T»E    BITOVAO.  Ut 

thf8»  vJMiyoaiig^eM^  which  he  had  {^kd  «ne  qpoa 
fmvlheiu-  The  wind  was  at  this  time  sweeiHBg  furioiis- 
ly  over  Ae  plain.  Night  was  i^[>pxoaching  (  we  had  not 
ealea  anything  since  morning ;  our  small  stock  of  pro- 
▼iaions  was  in  unsafe  hands,  and  we  began  to  fear  that 
none  would  be  forthcoming.  Our  mules  were  as  badly 
off.  The  pastiff e  was  so  poor  that  they  required  a  wide 
range,  and  we  let  all  go  loose  except  my  poor  macho, 
which,  from  certain  roring  propensities  acquired  before 
he  came  into  my  possession,  we  were  obliged  to  fasten 
!o  a  tree.  It  was  some  time  after  dark  when  Santiago 
appeared  with  the  alforgas  of  provisions  on  his  back. 
He  had  gone  back  six  miles  when  he  found  the  track 
of  Juan's  foot,  one  of  the  squarest  ever  planted,  and 
followed  it  to  a  wretched  hut  in  the  woods,  at  which 
we  had  expected  to  stop.  We  had  lost  nothing  by  aot 
stopping;  all  they  could  get  to  bring  away  was  four 
eggs.  We  supped,  piled  up  our  trunks  to  windward, 
spread  our  mats,  lay  down,  gazed  for  a  few  moments 
at  the  stars,  and  fell  asleep.  During  the  night  the  wind 
changed,  and  we  were  almost  blown  away. 

The  next  morning,  preparatory  to  entering  once  more 

upon  habitable  regions,  we  made  our  toilet ;  i.  e.,  we 

iHing  a  looking-glass  on  the  branch  of  a  tree,  and  shared 

t^  uppe^  lip  and  a  small  part  of  the  chin.     At  a  quar- 

ter  past  seven  we  started,  having  eaten  up  our  last  frag- 

'Xtent.     Since  we  left  Giiista  we  had  not  seen  a  human 

being ;  the  country  was  still  desolate  and  dreary ;  there 

^*^3^«  not  a  breath  of  air ;  hills,  mountains,  and  plains 

^^Ye  all  barren  and  stony ;  but,  as  the  sun  peeped 

^l^ove  the  horizon,  its  beams  gladdened  this  scene  of 

■*^*Trenness.     For   two  hours  we   ascended  a  barren 

•*^>xiy  mountain.     Even  before  this  the  desolate  fron- 


848  INCIDEMTS    OF    FAATSL. 

tier  had  Beemed  almost  an  impregnable  borriwf  iMifr 
Aivarado  had  crossed  it  to  penetrate  an  unknown 
try  teeming  with  enemies,  and  twice  a  Mexican 
has  invaded  Central  America. 

At  half  past  ten  we  reached  the  top  of  the  mountan^ 
and  on  a  line  before  us  saw  the  Church  of  Zapoloata^ 
the  first  village  in  Mexico.  Here  our  apprehenaioiia 
revived  from  want  of  a  passport.  Our  great  object 
was  to  reach  Comitan,  and  there  bide  the  brunt.  Ap- 
proaching the  village,  we  avoided  the  road  that  led 
through  the  plaza,  and  leaving  the  luggage  to  get  along 
as  it  could,  hurried  through  the  suburbs,  startled  some 
women  and  children,  and  before  our  entry  was  known 
at  the  cabildo  we  were  beyond  the  village.  We  rode 
briskly  for  about  a  mile,  and  then  stopped  to  breathe. 
An  immense  weight  was  removed  from  our  minds,  and 
we  welcomed  each  other  to  Mexico.  Coming  in  from 
the  desolate  frontier,  it  opened  upon  us  like  an  old,  long- 
settled,  civilized,  quiet,  and  well-governed  country. 

Four  hours^  ride  over  an  arid  and  sandy  plain  brought 
us  to  Comitan.  Santiago,  being  a  deserter  from  the 
Mexican  army,  afraid  of  being  caught,  left  us  in  the 
suburbs  to  return  alone  across  the  desert  we  had  pass- 
ed, and  we  rode  into  the  plaza.  In  one  of  the  largest 
houses  fronting  it  lived  an  American.  Part  of  the  front 
was  occupied  as  a  shop,  and  behind  the  counter  was  a 
man  whose  face  called  up  the  memory  of  home.  I 
asked  him  in  English  if  his  name  was  M' Kinney,  and 
he  ansAvered  *'  Si,  seiior."  I  put  several  other  ques- 
tions in  English,  which  he  answered  in  Spanish.  The 
sounds  were  familiar  to  him,  yet  it  was  some  time  be« 
fore  he  could  fully  comprehend  that  he  was  listening  to 
his  native  tongue ;  but  when  he  did,  and  understood 
that  I  was  a  countryman,  it  awakened  feelings  to  which 


A    7IEOINIAN    MBZICAW. 

1m  had  long  been  a  etrangery  and  he  received  us  as 
one  in  whom  absence  had  only  strengthened  the  links 
that  bound  him  to  his  country. 

Dr.  James  M'Kinney,  whose  unpretending  name  is 
m  Ck>mitan  transformed  to  the  imposing  one  of  Dou 
Santiago  Maquene,  was  a  native  of  Westmoreland  coun- 
ty, Virginia,  and  went  out  to  Tobasco  to  pass  a  winter 
tar  the  benefit  of  his  health  and  the  practice  of  his  pro- 
Coasion.  Circumstances  induced  him  to  make  a  journey 
into  the  interior,  and  he  establiBhed  himself  at  Ciudad 
Beal.  At  the  tune  of  the  cholera  in  Central  America 
he  went  to  Quezaltenango,  where  he  was  employed  by 
the  government,  and  lived  two  years  on  intimate  terms 
with  the  unfortunate  General  Guzman,  whom  he  de- 
scribed as  one  of  the  most  gentlemanly,  amiable,  iatel- 
ligent,  and  best  men  in  the  country.  He  afterward  re- 
turned to  Comitan,  and  married  a  lady  of  a  once  rich 
and  powerful  family,  but  stripped  of  a  portion  of  its 
wealth  by  a  revolution  only  two  years  before.  In  the 
division  of  what  was. left,  the  house  on  the  plaza  fell  to 
his  share  ;  and  disliking  the  practice  of  his  profession,  he 
abandoned  it,  and  took  to  selling  goods.  Like  every 
other  stranger  in  the  country,  by  reason  of  constant  wars 
and  revolutions  he  had  become  nervous.  He  bad  none 
of  this  feeling  when  he  first  arrived,  and  at  the  time  of 
the  first  revolution  in  Ciudad  Real  he  stood  in  the  plaza 
looking  on,'  when  two  men  were  shot  down  by  his  side. 
Fortunately,  he  took  them  into  a  house  to  dress  their 
wounds,  and  during  this  time  the  attacking  party  forced 
their  way  into  the  plaza,  and  cut  down  every  man  in  it. 

Up  to  this  place  we  had  travelled  on  the  road  to  Mex- 
ico ;  here  Pawling  was  to  leave  us  and  go  on  to  the  cap- 
ital ;  Palenque  lay  on  our  right,  toward  the  coast  of  the 
Atlantic.     The  road  Dr.  M'Kinney  described  as  more 

Vol.  II.— I  1 


IBP  IMfilBEITTS    or    TBATBU 

ihglitfui  tlmtt  any  we  had  ysi  invr^Uod ;  Hnd  there  wen 
olber  ditficulties.  Wnr  wos  o^d  io  our  way ;  atidt 
while  all  ihc  rest  of  Mpxico  wm  qtuet,  Tobasco  Bsd 
YiicnUin,  tlie  two  points  in  oor  journey,  were  in  a  hUU 
of  revolution.  This  tni^it  have  disliirb«rl  m  ^nth 
but  for  another  difficulty.  Ii  was  necessary  to  prnnl 
ourselves  »t  Giudmi  Rfal,  three  days'  jonrney  diretrlij' 
I  of  our  road,  to  procure  a  passport,  without  which  w4 
"     I  •!  t 


M^)Cai^4v4M  to  pMv*Ht'VifrslHafMi'iMMk|fiMHlMI 
t^P^im^M.  Br.  M'KinnKf  taH- wrf Ih  u im  MM* 
edge  that  tbree  Belgians,  wM  ovt  mi  a  BtfieiKiMg  null 
dilioB  by  Ak  Belgian  goTenuBMit,  had'  gem  to  CMtt 
Real  expienly  to  aak  permimon  to  vkh  ttaera,  and  iKt 
bean  refused.  These  coramuBieatioiu  damped  seMk 
what  the  satiflfaetion  (tf  our  aniTal  in  Oxnilao.  '■^- 

By  Dr.  M'Kinney's  advice  we  pneented  ouisdiW 
imaediately  to  the  commsndaDt,  who  had  a  anoB  gM« 
risoii  of  about  diirty  meo,  well  mifenned  and  equijipud; 
^nd,  oompered  with  tiia  soldiers  ot  Central  Ainepiett,g)f» 
ing  rae  a  high  opinitni  of  the  Mezicen  army.  I  rinMl 
him  mjr  panport,  and  a  copy  of  the  gomrnraent  fiftt 
al  niiliiiisls,  ^Htich  fortimately  stated  ttet  I  intMAl^ 
gdfalg  to  Gempeachy  to  embark  fiar  the  United  SHMf 
WHh  great  ootirtesy  he  immediately  ondeittiokto  zdKMV 
na  from  the  necessity  of  presentiiig  ouisuNue  ki  ^MUMM 
•t  Cindad  Real,  and  t^red  to  en 


■III  mki\im\iamrUp)40mmmatmmi^^ 


imWpteXA^  OOYJUTSV^.  IM 


mad 

howerer,  to  serve  xm^  aud^he  was 
k'SDnM'mpoiisibilityy  and  would  txnuiib 
wiA  the  oomraandant.     We  left  him  with  a  warm  ap- 
fveeiatiQn  of  the  civility  and  good  feeling  of  the  Mezi- 
ean  ^^fllii*iiih,  and  satisfied  that,  whatever  might  be  the 
-nsdty  "ttuj^  were  disposed  to  pay  great  respect  to  their 
snighbonra  of  the  North.    The  next  morning  the  prefeto 
«ent  book  the  passport,  'vi;^th  a  conrteous  message  that 
Chey  ooosidered  me  in  the  same  light  as  if  I  had  come 
MUfrredited  to  their  own  government,  would  be  happy  to 
vender  me  every  iacility  in  their  power,  and  that  Mexico 
open  to  me  to  travel  which  way  I  pleased.     Thus 
great  difficulty  was  removed.    I  recommend  all  who 
"wrish  to  travel  to  get  an  appointment  from  Washingtcm. 
As  to  the  revolntions,  after  having  gone   through 
%lie  crash  of  a  Central  American,  we  were  not  to  be 
put  back  by  a  Mexican.     But  the  preventive  order 
Against  visiting  the  ruins  of  Palenque  was  not  so  easi- 
ly disposed  of.     If  we  made  on  application  for  permis- 
sion, we  felt  sure  of  the  good  dispctoition  of  the  local  au- 
thorities ;  but  if  they  had  no  discretion,  were  bound  by 

m 

^^tiperative  orders,  and  obliged  to  refuse,  it  would  be 

^^courteous  and  improper  to  make  the  attempt.     At 

^he  same  time,  it  was  discouraging,  in  the  teeth  of  Dr. 

^*Kinney's  information,  to  undertake  the  journey  witb- 

^Hat.    To  be  obliged  to  retrace  oiir  steps,  and  make  the 

^^^  journey  to  the  capital  to  ask  permission,  would  be 

^^»rible ;  but  we  learned  that  the  ruins  were  removed 

*ome  ^stance  from  any  habitation ;  we  did  not  believe 

^Bt,  in  the  midst  of  a  formidable  revolution,  the  gov- 

^**inieht  had  any  spare  soldiers  to  station  there  as  a 

S^id.  '  Flrom  what  we  knew  of  other  ruins,  we  had 


WWlMH 


ll*il>l«^llllH 


■.■<kWM*t«l« 


'1  t'l  I 


■"     I'll    I" 


i>ii|>Ti>iiH- 


ilijli  iiiiiWrt 


iiU  ir 


■iMKJjJMfcl 


ilmiiigi,ii¥ill*«w<M 


•otiptak  ^aniMeterflr,  faiil.iateztaiiiid-tft«itkji 
umfKVmibm.-  He  movaduaong  tke  pe«pb»b«fe^m 
■arof  tbHB;-uid  the  onl^  twtket  bound^iH^M* 
deek>eyad  Spanish  beanty,  one  of  ib^&irtfaafcXai** 
Ibat  ooantrjfor  wfaosi  a  man  might  fay  t  kandiadaarf 
hoow.  He  waa  aaxiooa  to  kaTe  the  aoantrjrt .hat  aM 
txammeUed  by  a  pramine  made  Jiia  aiathai-itv4air  Mi 
ta.do  ao  dwiog  her  life.  Kfr  lirad,  howeTat,  ia-at^ 
oaoatant  anxiety,- that  he  hoped  ahe  would  rnh^aaa  Mpa 
-Comitan,  tha  frontier  town  of  CliiBpaB,  contaiaaa 
pafMlatian.af  abeat  tea  thouaand.  r  It  haa  a.  fnwt 
chuiahi  and  weU-^fiUed  convent  of  DoBiiaioBB.  fri|» 
WiiiJblOi  eiaaaee,  aa  hi  Centzal  Awerica,  have  dmlb 
jaj^heuaea  in  tha  town,  and  derive  their,  aubaiataim 
fiaan  tba  {vodaals  of  their  haciendaa,  which  Ihajii^ 
^'™"  lilB-  to  time.  It  ie  a  place  of  eonaideiabla>ln4b 
•Bd.ha».bee0O]a  ao  by  the  efieat  of  had  la?n4^ia%4 


■Jlii  ml  B«1aiih  ,MTil»i|ni^Mnrf< 


afc<|lWi  >i,w^M»»l1< 


VTILITT    OP    ▲    PBISlfD.  9M 

i^Mii  of  wraBBe  that  the  offieen  are  vigilant,  and  the 
^y  before  we  arrived  twenty  or  thirty  mule-loads  that 
ittd  been  ^ipied  were  brought  into  Comitan ;  but  the 
ptofits  are  ao  large  that  smuggling  is  a  regular  business, 
the  risk  of  aeisore  being  considered  one  of  the  expenses 
of  eanjRBg  it  on*  The  whole  conununity,  not  exoept- 
iog  the  Tevenna x^eers,  are  interested  in  it,  and  its  ef- 
fect upon  public  morals  is  deplorable.  The  markets, 
howev^,  are  but  poorly  supplied,  as  we  found.  We 
ftc^  for  a  washerwoman,  but  there  was  no  soap  in  the 
town.  We  wanted  our  mules  shod,  but  there  was  only 
ircn  enough  to  shoe  one.  Buttons  for  pantaloons,  in 
made  up  for  other  deficiencies.  The  want  of  soap 
a  deplorable  circumstance.  For  several  days  we 
had  indulged  in  the  pleasing  expectation  of  having  our 
Bheets  washed.  The  reader  may  perhaps  consider  us 
particular^  as  it  was  only  three  weeks  since  we  left 
Ouatimala,  but  we  had  slept  in  wretched  cabildoes, 
aad  on  the  ground,  and  they  had  become  of  a  very 
doubtful  colour.  In  time  of  trouble,  however,  com- 
'i^nd  me  to  the  sympathy  of  a  countryman.  Don  8an- 
^^ago,  alias  Doctor  M^Kinney,  stood  by  us  in  our  hour 
of  need,  provided  us  with  soap,  and  our  sheets  were  pu- 
rified. 

I  have  omitted  a  circumstance  which  from  the  time 

^f  our  arrival  in  the  country  we  had  noticed  as  extra* 

^^^dinary.     The  horses  and  mules  are  never  shod,  ex- 

^pt  perhaps  a  few  pleasure  horses  used  for  riding  about 

the  streets  of  Guatimala.     On  the  road,  however,  we 

^ere  advised,  after  we  had  set  out,  that  it  was  proper 

to  have  ours  shod ;  but  there  was  no  good  blacksmith 

except  at  QneKaltenango,  and  as  we  were  at  that  place 

dming  a  fiesta  he  would  not  work.     In  crossing  long 

^^^^Bgeii  of  stony  mountains,  not  one  of  them  suffered  ex- 

22 


(. 


^d  de\ibeia«on 


PABTiRe.  S66 


CHAPTER  XV. 

9tetiiif»— >8oI«d4.— A  If illionaire.— Oc(MiDgo.->Roiiii.^BegmDing  o(  the  Rainy 
BtaiOiL  A  Famale  Oaide.— Arriftl  at  the  Roins.— Stone  FiguTct. — Pynmi- 
«U  Stnietaiei.— An  Arch.— A  Stucco  Ornament.— A  Woodm  Lintel.— A  cn- 
riooa  Cafe. — Baildings,  ^.— A  Cauaeway.— More  Rnina.— Journey  to  Pa^ 
leoqoe.— Rio  Orande.— Cascadee. — Sncceaaion  of  Tillages.— A  Maniac— Tbe 
yalwkm.— Tnmbala.— A  wild  Place.— A  Scene  of  Grandeur  and  Sublimity.- 
Indian  Carriers.— A  steep  Moontaio.- San  Pedro. 

On  the  first  of  May,  with  a  bustle  and  confusion  like 
those  of  May-day  at  home,  we  moved  out  of  Don  San* 
tiago's  house,  mounted,  and  bade  him  farewell.  Doubt- 
less his  daily  routines  have  not  since  been  broken  by 
the  visit  of  a  countryman,  and  communication  is  so  dif- 
ficult that  he  never  hears  from  home.  He  charged  us 
with  messaged  to  his  friend  Doctor  Coleman,  United 
Btates  consul  at  Tobasco,  who  was  then  dead ;  and 
the  reader  will  perhaps  feel  for  him  when  I  mention  that 
probably  a  copy  of  this  work,  which  I  intend  to  send 
him,  will  never  reach  his  hands. 

I  must  pass  over  the  next  stage  of  our  journey,  which 
w^  through  a  region  less  mountainous,  but  not  less  sol- 
itary than  that  we  had  already  traversed.     The  first  af- 
ternoon we  stopped  at  the  hacienda  of  Sotan&,  belong- 
ing to  a  brother-in-law  of  Don  Santiago,  in  a  soft  and 
lovely  valley,  with  a  chapel  attached,  and  bell  that  at 
•▼cning  called  the  Indian  workmen,  women,  and  chil- 
dren to  vesper  prayers.     The  next  day,  at  the  abode 
of  Padre  Solis,  a  rich  old  cura,  short  and  broad,  living 
^  a   fine  hacienda,  we  dined  ofi*  solid  silver  dishes, 
*^k  out  of  silver  cups,  and  washed  in  a  silver  basin, 
''e  /lad  lived  at  Palenque,  talked  of  Candones  or  un- 
^tLsed  Indians,  and  wanted  to  buy  my  macho,  pmn« 


256  INCIDENTS    OF    TRATBL. 

ising  to  keep  him  till  he  died ;  and  the  only  thing  that 
relieves  me  from  self-reproach  in  not  securing  him  siidi 
pasture-grounds  is  the  recollection  of  the  padre's  weight 

At  four  o'clock  on  the  third  day  we  reached  Ocosin- 
go,  likewise  in  a  beautiful  situation,  surrounded  by 
mountains,  with  a  large  church ;  and  in  the  waD  of  the 
yard  we  noticed  two  sculptured  figures  from  the  nrins 
we  proposed  to  visit,  somewhat  in  the  same  style  as  those 
at  Copan.  In  the  centre  of  the  square  was  a  magnificent 
Ceiba  tree.  We  rode  up  to  the  house  of  Don  Manuel 
Pasada,  the  prefet,  which,  with  an  old  woman-servant| 
we  had  entirely  to  ourselves,  the  family  being  at  his 
hacienda.  The  house  was  a  long  enclosure,  with  a 
shed  in  front,  and  furnished  with  bedsteads  made  of 
reeds  split  into  two,  and  supported  on  sticks  resting  in 
the  ground. 

The  alcalde  was  a  Mestitzo,  very  civil,  and  glad  to 
see  us,  and  spoke  of  the  neighbouring  ruins  in  the  most 
extravagant  terms,  but  said  they  were  so  completely 
buried  in  Bl  Monte  that  it  would  require  a  party  of  men 
for  two  or  three  days  to  cut  a  way  to  them ;  and  he  laid 
great  stress  upon  a  cave,  the  mouth  of  which  was  com* 
pletely  choked  up  with  stones,  and  which  communica- 
ted by  a  subterraneous  passage  with  the  old  city  of 
lenque,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  miles  distant, 
added  that  if  we  would  wait  a  few  days  to  make 
arations,  he  and  all  the  village  would  go  with  us,  ai 
make  a  thorough  exploration.     We  told  him  that 
we  wished  to  make  preliminary  observations,  and 
promised  us  a  guide  for  the  next  morning. 

That  night  broke  upon  us  the  opening  storm  of 
rainy  season.     Peals  of  crashing  thunder  reverberate 
from  the  mountains,  lightning  illuminated  with  fearfo]^ 
flatbes  the  darkness  of  night,  rain  poured  like  a  deluged 


%VIVB    AT    OC08INOO<  Wt 

upon  our  thatched  roofj  wad  the  worst  mountains  in  the 
whole  road  were  yet  to  be  ctoseed.  All  our  efforts  to 
anticipate  the  rainy  season  had  been  fruitless. 

In  the  morning  dark  clouds  still  obscured  the  sky,  but 
fbey  fell  back  and  hid  themselves  before  the  beams  of 
4ie  iMug  mm.  The  grass  and  trees,  parched  by  six 
months*  drought,  started  into  a  deeper  green,  and  the 
bills  and  mountains  seemed  glad.  The  alcalde,  I  be- 
lieve vexed  at  our  not  being  willing  to  make  an  imme* 
diate  affair  of  exploring  the  ruins,  had  gone  away  for 
the  day  without  sending  us  any  guide,  and  leaving  word 
that  all  the  men  were  engaged  in  repairing  the  church. 
We  endeavoured  to  entice  one  of  them  away,  but  un- 
successfully. Returning,  we  found  that  our  piazza  was 
the  schoolhc^UBe  of  the  village.  Half  a  dozen  children 
were  sitting  on  a  bench,  and  the  schoolmaster,  half  tip- 
sy, was  educating  them,  i.  e.,  teaching  them  to  repeat 
ij  rote  the  formal  parts  of  the  church  service.  We 
asked  him  to  help  us,  but  he  advised  us  to  wait  a  day 
or  two ;  in  that  country  nothing  could  be  done  vio- 
lenter.  We  weie  excessively  vexed  at  the  prospect  of 
losing  the  day ;  and  at  the  moment  when  we  thought  we 
Ifead  nothing  left  but  to  submit,  a  little  girl  came  to  tell 
ms  that  a  woman,  on  whose  hacienda  the  ruins  were,  was 
tlien  about  going  to  visit  it,  and  offered  to  escort  us. 
horse  was  already  standing  before  the  door,  and 

ore  our  mules  were  ready  she  rode  over  for  us.     We 
our  respects,  gave  her  a  good  cigar,  and,  lighting 

around,  set  out.     She  was  a  pleasant  Mestitzo,  and 
a  son  with  her,  a  fine  lad  about  fifteen.     We  started 

half  past  nine,  and,  after  a  hot  and  sultry  ride,  at 

enty  minutes  past  eleven  reached  her  rancho.     It 
a  mere  hut,  made  of  poles  and  plastered  with  mud, 

it  the  situation  was  one  of  those  that  warmed  ^B  to 

Vol.  n— K  X 
4 


*«"  ■ » 


t&6  INCIDBNT8    OF    TBAYBL. 

eountry  life.  Our  kind  guide  -sent  with  ub  her  aon  and 
an  Indian  with  his  maobete,  and  in  half  an  hour  we 
were  at  the  ruins. 

Soon  after  leaving  the  rancho,  and  at  nearly  a  mile 
distant,  we  saw,  on  a  high  elevation,  through  openings 
in  trees  growing  around  it,  one  of  the  buildings  of 
Tonila,  the  Indian  name  in  thia  region  for  stone  hou- 
ses.    Approaching  it,  we  passed  on  the  plain  in  front 
two  stone  figures  lying  on  the  ground,  with  the  faces 
upward ;    they  were  well  carved,  but  the  characters 
were  somewhat  faded  by  long  exposure  to  the  elements, 
although  still  distinct.     Leaving  them,  we  rode  on  to 
the  foot  of  a  %igh  structure,  probably  a  fortress,  ri- 
sing in  a  pyramidal  form,  with  five  spacious  terraces. 
These  terraces  had  all  been  faced  with  stone  and  stuc- 
coed, but  in  many  places  they  were  broken  and  over- 
grown with  grass  and  shrubs.     Taking  advantage  of 
one  of  the  broken  parts,  we  rode  up  the  first  pitch,  and* 
following  the  platform  of  the  terrace,  ascended  by  an- 
other breach  to  the  second,  and  iu  the  same  way  to  the 
third.     There  we  tied  our  horses  and  climbed  up  on 
foot.     On  the  top  was  a  pyramidal  structure  overgrown 
with  trees,  supporting  the  building  which  we  had  seen 
from  the  plain  below.     Among  the  trees  were  several 
wild  lemons,  loaded  with  fruit,  and  of  very  fine  flavour, 
which,  if  not  brought  there  by  the  Spaniards,  must  be& 
indigenous.     The  building  is  fifty  feet  front  and  thirty  — 
five  feet  deep ;  it  is  constructed  of  stone  and  lime,  aj^.^ 
the  whole  front  was  once  covered  with  stucco,  of  whic^^ 
part  of  the  cornice  and  mouldings  still  remain.     TL— ■ 
entrance  is  by  a  doorway  ten  feet  wide,  which  leacr:^ 
into  a  sort  of  antechamber,  on  each  side  of  which  is 
small   doorway   leading   into   an    apartment   ten    fe< 
square.     The  walls  of  these  apartments  were  once  co' 


¥l= 


-^a 


r.Wirann  of  ih*limUi»  <nn<  ii 


i^|^.>i'^'S^^S< 


J017RNBT    TO     PALBNQVK.  S08 

nBiTxrw  and  difficult  paths,  which  wind  across  monntaiu 

0jid  precipioesi'and  which  it  is  necessary  to  follow  some- 

-Kvnes  on  moles,  sometimes  on  foot,  sometimes  on  the 

jsJionlders  of  Indians,  and  sometimes  in  hammocks.     In 

^^>ine  places  it  is  necessary  to  pass  on  bridges,  or,  rather, 

-gamnks  of  trees  badly  secured,  and  over  lands  covered 

wood,  desert  and  dispeopled,  and  to  sleep  in  the 

>2>en  air,  excepting  a  very  few  villages  and  huts. 

'*  We  had  with  us  thirty  or  forty  vigorous  Indians  to 
our  luggage  and  hammocks.  After  having  expe- 
jrx^i^ced  in  this  long  and  painful  journey  every  kind  of 
f0.tigne  and  discomfort,  we  arrived,  thank  God,  at  the 
^V'illage  of  Palenque." 

This  was  now  the  journey  before  us ;  and,  according 

to  the  stages  we  had  arranged,  to  avoid  sleeping  out  at 

ixight,  it  was  to  be  made  in  five  instead  of  eight  days. 

The  terrible  rains  of  the  two  preceding  nights  had  in* 

fected  us  with  a  sort  of  terror,  and  Pawling  was  com* 

pletely  shaken  in  his  purpose  of  continuing  with  us. 

The  people  of  the  village  told  him  that  after  the  rains 

had  fairly  set  in  it  would  be  impossible  to  return,  and 

in  the  morning,   though  reluctantly,   he   determined 

abruptly  to  leave  us  and  go  back.     We  were  very  un» 

^nlling  to  part  with  him,  but,  under  the  circumstances, 

could  not  urge  him  to  continue.     Our  luggage  and  lit- 

^  traps,  which  we  ha4  used  in  common,  were  separa- 

^ ;  Blr.  Catherwood  bade  him  good-by  and  rode  on ; 

^^^  while  mounted,  and  in  the  act  of  shaking  hands  to 

P^iraue  our  opposite  roads,  I  made  him  a  proposition 

^hich  induced  him  again  to  change  his  determination! 

^  ^he  risk  of  remaining  on  the  other  side  of  the  mount* 

^^'^  uSlil  the  rainy  season  was  over.     In  a  few  minutes 

^^  overtook  Mr.  Catherwood. 

^he  {act  is,  we  had  some  apprehensions  bom  th« 


860  IKCIDBNT8     OF    TKATEL. 

the  opinion  that  it  must  ha  7e  been  trimmed  with  an  in- 
strument of  metal. 

The  opening  under  this  doorway  was  what  the  al- 
calde had  intended  as  the  mouth  of  the  cave  that  led  to 
Palenque,  and  which,  by*the-way,  he  had  told  us  was 
so  completely  buried  in  £1  Monte  that  it  would  re- 
quire two  days  dicing  and  clearing  to  reach  it.  Oui 
guide  laughed  at  the  ignorance  prevailing  in  the  village 
in  regard  to  the  difficulty  of  reaching  it,  but  stoutly 
maintained  the  story  that  it  led  to  Palenque.  We  could 
not  prevail  on  him  to  enter  it.  A  short  cut  to  Palen- 
que was  exactly  what  we  wanted.  I  took  off  my  coat, 
and,  lying  down  on  my  breast,  began  to  crawl  under. 
When  I  had  advanced  about  half  the  length  of  my 
body,  I  heard  a  hideous  hissing  noise,  and  starting 
back,  saw  a  pair  of  small  eyes,  which  in  the  darkness 
shone  like  baUs  of  fire.  The  precise  portion  of  tima 
that  I  employed  in  backing  out  is  not  worth  mentioning. 
My  companions  had  heard  the  noise,  and  the  guide 
said  it  was  '^  un  tigre."  I  thought  it  was  a  wildcat; 
but,  whatever  it  was,  we  determined  to  have  a  shot  at 
it.  We  took  it  for  granted  that  the  animal  would  dash 
past  us,  and  in  a  few  moments  our  guns  and  pistolsi 
swords  and  machetes,  were  ready ;  taking  our  positionSf 
Pawling,  standing  close  against  the  wall,  thrust  imder  a 
long  pole,  and  with  a  horrible  noise  out  fluttered  a  huge 
turkey-buzzard,  which  flapped  itself  through  the  build^ 
ing  and  took  refuge  in  another  chamber. 

This  peril  over,  I  renewed  the  attempt,  and  holding  atf 
candle  before  me,  quickly  discovered  the  whole  extent^ 
of  the  cave  that  led  to  Palenque.  It  was  a  chamber  cor-  — 
responding  with  the  dimensions  given  of  the  outer"** 
walls.  The  floor  was  encumbered  with  rubbish  two  or"** 
three  feet  deep,  the  walls  were  covered  with  stuccoed  J 


A    CAUSEWAY.  261 

fignres,  among  which  that  of  a  monkey  was  oonspicn* 
ous,  and  against  the  back  wall,  among  curious  and  in- 
teresting ornaments,  were  two  figures  of  men  in  profile, 
with  their  faces  toward  each  other,  well  drawn  and  as 
large  as  life,  but  the  feet  concealed  by  the  rubbish  on 
the  floor.  BIr.  Catherwood  crawled  in  to  make  a  draw- 
ing of  them,  but,  on  account  of  the  smoke  from  the  can- 
dles, the  closeness,  and  excessive  heat,  it  was  impossi- 
ble to  remain  long  enough.  In  general  appearance  and 
character  they  were  the  same  as  we  afterward  saw  carv- 
ed on  stone  at  Palenque. 

By  means  of  a  tree  growing  close  against  the  wall  of 
this  building  I  climbed  to  the  top,  and  saw  another  ed- 
ifice very  near  and  on  the  top  of  a  still  higher  structure. 
We  climbed  up  to  this,  and  found  it  of  the  same  general 
plan,  but  more  dilapidated.  Descending,  we  passed  be- 
tween two  other  buildings  on  pyramidal  elevations,  and 
eame  out  upon  an  open  table  which  had  probably  once 
been  the  site  of  the  city.  It  was  protected  on  all  sides 
by  the  same  high  terraces,  overlooking  for  a  great  dis- 
tance  the  whole  country  round,  and  rendering  it  im- 
ponible  for  an  enemy  to  approach  from  any  quarter 
withoot  being  discovered.  Across  the  table  was  a  high 
and  narrow  causeway,  which  seemed  partly  natural  and 
partly  artificial,  and  at  some  distance  on  which  was  a 
moand,  with  the  foundations  of  a  building  that  had  prob- 
ably been  a  tower.  Beyond  this  the  causeway  extend- 
ed till  it  joined  a  range  of  mountains.  From  the  few 
Spanish  books  within  my  reach  I  have  not  been  able 
to  leant  anything  whatever  of  the  history  of  this  place, 
whether  it  existed  at  the  time  of  the  conquest  or  not. 
I  am  inclined  to  think,  however,  that  it  did,  and  that 
mention  is  made  of  it  in  some  Spanish  anthora.  At  all 
eventSi  there  was  no  place  we  had  seen  which  gave  as 


XNCIDSNTS    OF    TRATBI.. 

snoh  an  idea  of  the  Tastneaa  of  the  works  erected  by  Ihe 
aboriginal  inhabitants.  Pressed  as  we  were,  we  detn^ 
mined  to  remain  and  make  a  thorough  exploratioiL 

It  was  nearly  dark  when  we  returned  to  the  villagSi 
Immediately  we  called  upon  the  alcaldCi  but  found  ea 
the  very  threshold  detention  and  delay.  He  repealal 
the  schoolmaster's  warning  that  nothing  could  be  d< 
violenter.  It  would  take  two  days  to  get  together 
and  implements,  and  these  last  of  the  kind  m 
could  not  be  had  at  alL  There  was  not  a  crowbar  1m 
the  place  ;  but  the  alcalde  said  one  could  be  made,  mad 
in  the  same  breath  that  there  was  no  iron ;  there  waa 
half  a  blacksmith,  but  no  iron  nearer  than  Tobasodi 
about  eight  or  ten  days'  journey.  While  we  were  wi||i 
him  another  terrible  storm  came  on.  We  hurried  bade 
in  the  midst  of  it,  and  determined  forthwith  to  push  ah 
to  Palenque.  I  am  strongly  of  opinion  that  there  is  il 
this  place  much  to  reward  the  future  traveller.  "Wa 
were  told  that  there  were  other  ruins  about  ten  leagUM 
distanti  along  the  same  range  of  mountains ;  and  it  hai 
additional  interest  in  our  eyes,  from  the  circumstanes 
that  this  would  be  the  best  point  from  which  to  attenofl 
the  discovery  of  the  mysterious  city  seen  from  the  top  of 
the  Cordilleras. 

At  Ocosingo  we  were  on  the  line  of  travel  of  Captain 
Dupaix,  whose  great  work  on  Mexican  Antiquities,  pub- 
lished  in  Paris  in  1834-5,  awakened  the  attention  of  Wc 
learned  in  Europe.  His  expedition  to  Palenque  wm 
made  m  1807.  He  reached  this  place  from  the  city  irf 
Mexico,  under  a  commission  from  the  government,  al» 
tended  by  a  draughtsman  and  secretary,  and  part  of  a 
regiment  of  dragoons.  ^'Palenque,"  he  says,  ^^is  eighl 
days'  march  from  Ocosingo.  The  journey  is  very  Ah 
tiguing.     The  roads,  if  they  can  be  so  called,  are  onl| 


« 


...     K 


JOVRNBT    TO     PALBNQUE.  268 

narrow  and  difficult  paths,  which  wind  across  momitaiiis 
and  precipices,' and  which  it  is  necessary  to  follow  some- 
times on  mules,  sometimes  on  foot,  sometimes  on  the 
shoulders  of  Indians,  and  sometimes  in  hammocks.  In 
some  places  it  is  necessary  to  pass  on  bridges,  or,  rather, 
trunks  of  trees  badly  secured,  and  over  lands  covered 
^th  wood,  desert  and  dispeopled,  and  to  sleep  in  the 
open  air,  excepting  a  very  few  villages  and  huts. 

^^  We  had  with  us  thirty  or  forty  vigorous  Indians  to 
carry  our  luggage  and  hammocks.  After  having  expe- 
rienced in  this  long  and  painful  journey  every  kind  of 
&tigue  and  discomfort,  we  arrived,  thank  God,  at  the 
village  of  Palenque." 

This  was  now  the  journey  before  us ;  and,  according 
to  the  stages  we  had  arranged,  to  avoid  sleeping  out  at 
night,  it  was  to  be  made  in  five  instead  of  eight  days. 
The  terrible  rains  of  the  two  preceding  nights  had  in- 
fected us  with  a  sort  of  terror,  and  Pawling  was  com- 
pletely shaken  in  his  purpose  of  continuing  with  us. 
The  people  of  the  village  told  him  that  after  the  rains 
had  fairly  set  in  it  would  be  impossible  to  return,  and 
in  the  morning,  though  reluctantly,  he  determined 
abruptly  to  leave  us  and  go  back.  We  were  very  un- 
willing to  part  with  him,  but,  under  the  circumstances, 
(K>uld  not  urge  him  to  continue.  Our  luggage  and  lit- 
da  traps,  which  we  ha4  used  in  common,  were  separa- 
ted ;  B(r.  Catherwood  bade  him  good-by  and  rode  on ; 
but  while  mounted,  and  in  the  act  of  shaking  hands  to 
pursue  OUT  opposite  roads,  I  made  him  a  proposition 
which  induced  him  again  to  change  his  determinatioui 
at  the  risk  of  remaining  on  the  other  side  of  the  mount- 
ains nihil  the  rainy  season  was  over.  In  a  few  minutes 
we  overtook  Mr.  Catherwood. 

The  &ot  isi  we  had  some  apprehenaioiis  from  the 


AT' 


m 


IVOlDrnVTB    OP    TftATBL* 

J" 

tedneis  of  the  roads.  Our  route  lay  through  aa  ladwi 
oonntry,  in  parts  of  which  the  Indians  bore  a  notariooB^ 
bad  oharaoter.  We  had  no  dragoonSf  our  party  of  al* 
tendants  was  very  MQualli  and,  in  reality,  we  had  no(  % 
sin^e  man  upon  whom  we  oould  rely;  under  whiok 
stale  of  things  Pawling's  pistols  and  douMe-barreUsd* 
gun  were  a  matter  of  some  consequenoe. 

We  left  Ooosingo  at  a  quarter  past  «ght.  So  littla 
impression  did  any  of  our  attendants  make  upon  me^ 
that  I  have  entirely  forgotten  every  one  of  them*  Jm 
deed,  this  was  the  case  throughout  the  journey,  is 
other  countries  a  Greek  muleteer,  an  Arab  boatman,  m 
a  Bedouin  guide  was  a  companion;  here  the  peopla 
had  no  eharaoteri  and  nothing  in  which  we  took  any 
interest  except  their  backs.  Each  Indian  oarriedi  ba« 
sides  his  burdeui  a  net  bag  containing  his  provisiona  km 
the  roady  Yiz.|  a  few  tortillas^  and  large  balls  of  mashed 
Indian  corn  wrapped  in  leaves.  A  drinking  cup,  being 
half  a  calabash,  he  carried  sometimes  on  the  crown  of 
his  head.  At  every  stream  he  filled  his  cup  with  water, 
into  which  he  stirred  some  of  his  corn,  making  a  sort 
of  cold  porridge ;  and  this  throughout  the  country  is 
the  staff  of  life  for  the  Indian  on  a  journey.  In  half  an 
hour  we  passed  at  some  distance  on  our  right  large 
mounds,  formerly  structures  which  formed  part  of  the 
old  city.  At  nine  o'clock  we  ^ossed  the  Rio  Granda 
or  Huacachahoul,  followed  some  distance  on  the  bankf 
and  passed  three  cascades  spreading  over  the  rocky 
bed  of  the  river,  unique  and  peculiar  in  beauty,  and 
.probably  many  more  of  the  same  character  were  break- 
ing unnoticed  and  unknown  in  the  wilderness  throu^ 
which  it  rolled ;  but,  turning  up  a  rugged  mounttun,  wf 
lost  sight  of  it.  The  road  was  broken  and  mountaiop 
ous.     We  did  not  meet  a  single  persoui  and  at  three 


# 


m 


CHILLOM    AND    TOHALON. 

o'clock,  mcmfig  in  a  north-northwest  direction,  we  el^^^ 
texed  the  village  of  Hnacachahoul,  standing  in  an  open 
sienationi  surrounded  by  mountains,  and  peopled  entire* 
ly  l>y  Indians,  wilder  and  more  savage  than  any  we  had 
Y^t  seen.     The  men  were  without  hats,  but  wore  their 
long  black  hnr  reaching  to  their  shoulders ;  and  the  old 
men  and  women,  with  harsh  and  haggard  features  and 
dcurk  roHing  eyes,  had  a  most  unbaptisod  appearance. 
They  gave  ns  no  greetings,  and  their  wild  but  steady 
glare  made-  us  feel  a  little  nervous.     A  collection  of  na« 
kcHl  boys  and  girls  called  Mr.  Catherwood  <<  Tata,'* 
mistaking  him  for  a  padre.     We  had  some  misgivings 
wken  we  put  the  village  behind  us,  and  felt  ourselves 
enclosed  in  the  country  of  wild  Indians.     We  stop- 
ped an  hour  near  a  stream,  and  at  half  past  six  ar^ 
rived  at  Chillon,  where,  to  our  surprise  and  pleasure,  we 
found  a  sub-prefect,  a  white  man,  and  intelligent,  who 
had  travelled  to  San  Salvador,  and  knew  General  Mo- 
Tazan.     He  was  very  anxious  to  know  whether  there 
w^  any  revolution  in  Ciudad  Real,  as,  with  a  pliancy 
hecoming  an  oflSice-holder,  he  wished  to  give  in  his  ad- 
l^^on  to  the  new  government. 

The  next  morning,  at  a  quarter  before  seven,  we 

^^^ted  with  a  new  set  of  Indians.     The  road  was  good 

^^  Vahalon,  which  we  reached  at  ten  o'clock.     Before 

•'^tering  it  we  met  a  young  Indian  girl  with  her  fatheri 

^^  extraordinary  beauty  of  face,  in  the  costumfe  of  the 

^^Uitry,  but  with  a  modest  expression  of  countenance, 

^bich  we  all  particularly  remarked  as  evidence  of  her 

''^ocence  and  unconsciousness  of  anything  wrong  in  her 

^Pt^earance.     Every  village  we  passed  was  most  pictu« 

^'"•^Jiue  in  position,  and  here  the  church  was  very  effect- 

^▼e  ;    as  in  the  preceding  villages,  it  was  undergoing  re* 


ou  IL — h  L  23 


l',..-r1d<-r  .T   I'.^'.im .-.rlloi. 


I  P\  \ti  01-    ONL  Of     THE    ^NCIENT    BUllfJINGS    AT   OCOSIHO- 


rnrBALJu  Mf 

tying*  IB  th6  ptAfai'lo  tlMwe  had  to  turn  ant  to  afoid 
IMading  on  AenL  Biding  tlnongfa  a-  narrow  pasflaga 
between  these  high  vocks,  we  came  out  upon  a  eorner 
of  the  lofty  Kjorptedionlar  table  aeveral  tboosainl  feet 
Mgfa,  <Hi  whieh  stood  the  THlfeige  of  Tumbala.  In  front 
wiare  the  ehurch-and  eonyent;  the  square  was  fill^ 
with  wild-looking  Indians  preparing  for  a  fiesta,  and  on 
the  very  eoirtier  of  the  immense  table  was  a  hi^  coni- 
•id'peak,  orowned  wiAi  the  ruins  of  a  church:  '  Ahoi* 
gedier  it  was  the  wildest  and  most  extraordinary  plaee 
we  had  yel-  seen,  and  diough  not  consecrated  by  asso- 
asations,  for  unknown  ages  it  had  been  the  site  of  an 
village. 
It  was  one  of  the  circumstances  of  our  journey  in 
is  country  that  erery  hour  and  day  produced  some* 
tlnng  new.  We  never  had  any  idea  of  the  character 
a^lbe  place  we  were  approaching  until  we  entered  it, 
attd  one  surprise  followed  close  upon  anoAer.  On  one 
earner  of  the  table  of  land  stood  the  cabildo.  The  jos^ 
tilia  was  the  brother  of  our  silver«dish  friend  Pad^e  6a« 
Vmf  as  poor  and  energetic  as*  the  padre  was  rich  and 
iiMvt.  At  the  last  village  we  had  been  told  that  it 
would  ba-imposBiUe  to  procure  Indians  for  the  neM 
day-on  acoount  of  the  fiesta,  and  had  made  up  ona 
Bunda  to  reauki ;  but  my  letters  from  the  Mexican  auw 
thorities  were  so  effective,  that  immediately  the  justitiir 
hakl  a  parley  with  forty  or  fifty  Indians,  and,  breaking 
off  oacasionally  to  cuff  one  of  them,  our  journey  was 
asranged  through  to  Palenque  in  three  days,  and  tha 
■Mttay**paid  and  distriMHed.  Although  tha  wildness 
of -4iia' IfMUaaa  made  us  feel  a  little  uneomibrtable,  wa 
aftssoal  wgreMbd  this  uaeapeeted  prompftiess^  but  Ae 
^oslilia'tbUI  as  we  had'eone  at-a'feftuaate  moment,  ftv 


966  INCIDBMT8    OF    TRATKL. 

oiuly  a  bad  set,  were  then  in  die  village,  but  he  ooqU 
select  those  he  knew,  and  would  send  an  algnanl  of 
his  own  with  us  all  the  way.  As  he  did  not  give  in 
any  encouragement  to  remain,  and  eeemjpd  anTJuni  to 
hurry  us  on,  we  made  no  objections,  and  in  our  anzistj 
to  reach  the  end  of  our  journey,  had  a  superatitioas  a^ 
prehension  of  the  effect  of  any  voluntary  delay. 

With  the  little  of  daylight  that  remained,  he  con- 
ducted us  along  the  same  path  trodden  by  the  Indin» 
centuries  before,  to  the  top  of  the  cone  rising  at  the  cor- 
ner of  the  table  of  land,  from  which  we  looked  down  on 
one  side  into  an  immense  ravine  several  thousand  fset 
in  depth,  and  on  the  other,  over  the  top  of  a  greot 
mountain  range,  we  saw  the  village  of  San  Pedro,  the 
end  of  our  next  day's  journey,  and  beyond,  over  the 
range  of  the  mountains  of  Palenque,  the  Lake  of  Ton 
minos  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  It  was  one  of  dis 
grandest,  wildest,  and  most  sublime  scenes  I  ever  be- 
held. On  the  top  were  ruins  of  a  church  and  tower, 
probably  once  used  as  a  lookout,  and  near  it  were  thir- 
teen crosses  erected  over  the  bodies  of  Indians,  who, 
a  century  before,  tied  the  hands  and  feet  of  the  curate, 
and  threw  him  down  the  precipice,  and  were  killed  and 
buried  on  the  spot.  Every  year  new  crosses  are  set  up 
over  their  bodies,  to  keep  alive  in  the  minds  of  the  In- 
dians the  fate  of  murderers.  All  around,  on  almost  in- 
accessible mountain  heights,  and  in  the  deepest  ravines, 
the  Indians  have  their  nulpas  or  corn-patches,  living  al- 
most as  when  the  Spaniards  broke  in  upon  them,  and 
the  justitia  pointed  with  his  finger  to  a  region  still  oc- 
cupied by  the  <^  unbaptized :"  the  same  strange  peof^ 
whose  mysterious  origin  no  man  knows,  and  whose  des- 
tiny no  man  can  foretell.  Among  aU  the  wild  aoeoeo 
of  our  hurried  tour,  none  is  more  strongly  irngmmut 


i^p^'  fttf  UOuiP^mA  Hob  ^  \mt  with  the  untuned 
lAbl^Mte^^  fft/^thlMPfi^tMd  was  too  much  excited  and 
I0tf  it&ffoStt^W  tttttoiujpt  to  make  a  sketch  of  it. 
''"^t  ^daift'W<4rettErned  to  the  oabUdo^  which  was  dec« 
4Mil!M  iWHf  a ttfgrsens  for  the  fiesta,  and  at  one  end 
IjMKsr  a'WMhf  with  a  figure  of  the  Virgin  fentastieally 
J&feiwtdi'^ltfaijg  tinder  an  arbour  of  pine-leaves. 

^  the  ^fVimig  we  TOited  the  padre,  the  delegate  of 
Kftd^e^Brift,  a  gientlemanly  young  man  from  Ciudad 
SMDy  who  tvaSf  growing  as  round,  and  bade  fair  to  grow 
w  viA'eM  of' this  village  as  Padre  Bolis  himself.     He 
ffie  jvistfffo  were  the  only  white  men  in  the  place* 
rettihied  to  the  oabildo;  the  Indians  came  in  to 
\''\hSb  justiHa  buefnos  noches,  kissed  the  back  of  his 
MdM^  fbd  w^  wells  left  to  ourselves. 
'  Bleftire  daylight  we  were  roused  by  an  irruption  of 
Uduii  catYiM '  with  Ugfated  torches,  who,  while  we 
^vfe^  Still  m  bed,  began  tying  on  the  covers  of  our 
thknis  to  carry  them  off.    At  this  place  the  meohanio 
fits  were  Tower  than  in  any  other  we  had  visited. 
^H^erk  was  not  a  rope  of  any  kind  in  the  village ;  the 
B^^Hk&igs  of  the  thinks  and  the  straps  to  go  around  the 
f^'f^SxteA-'wtte  all  of  bark  strings ;  and  here  it  was  cus« 
^^'^tkrj  for  those  vrho  intended  to  cross  the  mountains 
^  take  faamfnacas  or  sillas ;  the  former  being  a  cush- 
itnted  ciiair,  with  a  long  pole  at  each  end,  to  be  borne 
^  four  Bidians  before  and  behind,  the  traveller  sitting 
Chilis  face  to  the  side,  and,  as  the  justitia  told  us,  only 
^^  by  very  heavy  men  and  padres ;  and  the  latter  an 
^nQchair,  to  be  carried  on  the  back  of  an  Indian.     We 
"^  a  repugnance  to  this  mode  of  conveyance,  consid* 
^'^,  thougl^  unwilling  to  run  any  risk,  that  where  an 
^dian  coidd  climb  with  one  of  us  on  his  back  we  could 
^'^b  ftkme,  and  set  out  without  either  siUa  oi  hanunaca. 


S70  INOIOSIITA    Of    TftATBL. 

Immediately  from  the  village  the  toad,  whick  warn,  m 
mere  opening  through  the  trees,  comaienoed  deacenA* 
ing,  and  very  soon  we  oame  to  a  road  of  paloe  cmt  adelHi 
like  a  staircase,  so  steep  that  it  warn  dangeroHa  to  ride 
down  them.  But  for  these  sticks,  in  the  rainy 
the  road  would  be  utterly  impassable.  Desceading 
stantly ,  at  a  little  after  twelve  we  reached  a  small  atreaoi 
where  the  Indians  virashed  their  sweating  bodies. 

From  the  banks  of  this  river  we  commenced  aaoeodv 
ing  the  steepest  mountain  I  ever  knew.  Aiding  was  o«l 
of  the  question ;  and  encumbered  with  sword  andspuM, 
and  leading  our  mules,  which  sometimes  held  baok,  and 
sometimes  sprang  upon  us,  the  toil  was  excessive.  Bt- 
ery  few  minutes  we  were  obliged  to  stop  and  lean 
against  a  tree  or  sit  down.  The  Indians  did  not  apeak 
a  word  of  any  language  but  their  own.  We  could  hold 
no  communication  whatever  with  them,  and  could  not 
understand  how  far  it  was  to  the  top.  At  length  we 
saw  up  a  steep  pitch  before  us  a  rude  cross,  which  we 
hailed  as  being  the  top  of  the  mountain.  We  climbed 
up  to  it,  and,  after  resting  a  moment,  mounted  our 
mules,  but,  before  riding  a  hundred  yards,  the  descent 
began,  and  immediately  we  were  obliged  to  dismount. 
The  descent  was  steeper  than  the  ascent.  In  a  certain 
college  in  our  country  a  chair  was  transmitted  as  an 
heirloom  to  the  laziest  man  in  the  senior  class.  One 
held  it  by  unanimous  consent ;  but  he  was  seen  run- 
ning down  hill,  was  tried  and  found  guilty,  but  avoid- 
ed sentence  by  the  frank  avowal  that  a  man  pushed 
him,  and  he  was  too  lazy  to  stop  himself.  So  it  was 
with  us.  It  was  harder  work  to  resist  than  to  give  way. 
Our  mules  came  tumbling  after  us;  and  after  a  meet 
rapid,  hot,  and  fatiguing  descent,  we  reached  a  stream 
covered  with  leaves  and  insects.     Here  two  of  our  In- 


«  1  'A^Kll^y^MMb**  '  *  ' 


11 

J^NJIflh  jiiihMlJy  M(Wiloak6d4D  «unrf  4o«di  :frORi. iheir 
#^^iW3d|.tlMgrv'8iiffGred  Mm  llMurw6;*..8iid  Ibe^frtfo- 
'^if^  ^^l^mc^o^ked  liaAm  rdievtd-diem'£ram'^he4Miftt 
.jMd /MffteemMt  wlrieh  wev  suffered-  froih  elothee  iril 
IKit^penpiMlkwu    It  wee  the  hotteit  day  we  had  easp^ 
aipieed  m  tiui  country.    We  kad;«  Inrtlier-fKABttt  4b* 
«Miit  tliBO0|^  flUoods  of  elmoet  impeiietrabletthickiieie, 
#nd  eta  qoarter  befofe  four  reached  San  Pedro.     Look- 
jag  baek  0¥er  the  range  we  had  just  crossed,  we  saW 
.*Vumbala|'aBd  the  towering  point  cm  which  we  stood 
the  evening  before,  on  a  right  line,  only  a  few  miles  dis- 
•$Mit,  but  by  the  road  twenty-seven. 
.'    tf  a  bad  name  could  kill  a  place,  San  Pedro  was 
dUmned. '  From  the  hacienda  of  Padre  Solis  to  Tum- 
lial%  every  one  we  met  cautioned  us  against  the  In- 
^iiaiia  of  San  Pedro.     Fortunately,  however,  nearly  the 
whole  village  had  gone  to  the  £6te  at  Tumbala.     There 
was  no  alcalde,  no  alguazils ;  a  few  Indians  were  lying 
about  in  a  state  of  utter  nudity,  and  when  we  looked 
lAto  the  huts  the  women  ran  away,  probably  alarmed 
ai  aeeing  men  with  pantaloons.     The  cabildo  was  ocoo- 
yied  by  a  travelling  party,  with  cargoes  of  sugar  for  To- 
baeoo.    The  leaders  of  ihe  party  and  owners  of  the  car- 
goes were  two  Mestitzoes,  having  servants  well  armed, 
with  whom  we  formed  an  acquaintance  and  tacit  alU- 
^ce*     One  of  the  best  houses  was  empty ;  the  propri- 
etor, with  his  family  and  household  furniture,  except 
seed  bedsteads  fixed  in  the  ground,  had  gone  to  the 
fiesta.     We  took  possession,  and  piled  our  luggage  in- 
side. 

Without  giving  us  any  notice,  our  men  deserted  us  to 
letum  to  Tumbala,  and  we  were  left  alone.  ^  We  could 


Sn  IKCIDBir«'«  .aF    TEATBL. 

not-ffpeak  thA  Jangoagey  ftnd  ooold  get  BOthm^^fiir 
mnles  or  for  onnelves  to  eat ;  but,  thioiigh  the  leadcfaf 
the  migar  party ,  we  learned  that  a  new  set  of  men  woaM 
be  ibrthooiiiiiig  m  the  moming  to  take  xm  oiib  Wili 
the-heat  and  fstigiie  I  had  a  Solent  headadhe.  The 
raoontain  for  the  next  day  was  worse,  and|  afipid  of  Ihs 
effort,  and  of  the  danger  of  breaking  down  on  the  roa^j' 
Mr.  C.  and  Pftwling  endeaToured  to  procure  a 
roaca  or  siUa,  which  was  promised  for  the  morning. 


A     WILD     COUNTRY.  S7S 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

^  "^kd  Conliy.— AKBt  of  a  Mountain.— Ride  in  a  Silla.— A  preearioai  Sitna- 
KiQBr.Tha  Ducent.— Rancbo  of  Nopa.— Attacks  of  Motchetoea.— Approach 
^^  Pilenque. — Paatnre  Grounds.— Village  of  Palenque.— A  crusty  Oifictal.~A 
^sontaons  Bseeption. — Scarcity  of  Provisions. — Sandsy.—Cbolera.— Another 
^jOQQtfjman.— The  Contersion,  Apostacjr,  and  Recovery  of  the  Indians.~Riter 
^^bacainaL— The  Caribs.— Ruins  of  Palenque. 

Early  the  next  morning  the  sugar  party  started,  and 
fc  five  minutes  before  seven  we  followed,  with  silla  and 
h«n,  altogether  our  party  swelled  to  twenty  Indians. 

The  country  through  which  we  were  now  travelling 

rcn  as  wild  as  before  the  Spanish  conquest,  and  with- 

«at  a  habitation  until  we  reached  Palenque.     The  road 

^as  through  a  forest  so  overgrown  with  brush  and  un- 

^Twood  as  to  be  impenetrable,  and  the  branches  were 

immed  barely  high  enough  to  admit  a  man's  travelling 

Uler  them  on  foot,  so  that  on  the  backs  of  our  mules 

B  were  constantly  obliged  to  bend  our  bodies,  and 

on  to  dismount.     In  some  places,  for  a  great  distance 

xad,  the  woods  seemed  killed  by  the  heat,  the  foli- 

8  withered,  the  leaves  dry  and  crisp,  as  if  burned  by 

son ;  and  a  tornado  had  swept  the  country,  of  which 

mention  was  made  in  the  San  Pedro  papers. 

7t  met  three  Indians  carrying  clubs  in  their  hands, 

)d  except  a  small  piece  of  cotton  cloth  around  the 

and  passing  between  the  legs,  one  of  them,  young, 

uid  of  admirable  symmetry  of  form,  looking  the 

nm  gentleman  of  the  woods.     Shortly  afteruTurd 

wted  a  stream,  where  naked  Indians  were  set- 

ide  nets  for  fish,  wild  and  primitive  as  in  the  first 

f  savage  life. 

¥enty  minutes  past  ten  we  commenced  aaoending 
II.— M  .M 


SM  IKCIDKITTA    OF    TftATBIrif 

the  mountain.  It  was  very  hot,  and^  eajt  giire  no 
of  the  toil  of  ascending  these  nymntains.  Our 
could  barely  clamber  up  with  their  saddles  only. 
disencumbered  ourselves  of  sword,  spurs,  and  aH 
less  tmqppingB;  in  fiGtct,came  down  to  shirt  a 
loons,  and  as  near  the  condition  of  the  Indiaite  as 
could.  Our  procession  would  have  been  fcspcefaetoh 
Qroadway.  First  were  four  Indians,  each  with  a  M90k 
oxhide  bof^  secured  by  an  iron  chain  and  large  padlaafc, 
on  his  back ;  then  Juan,  with  only  a  hat  and 
thin  cotton  drawers,  driving  two  spare  mules,  and 
rying  a  double-barrelled  gun  over  his  naked  shooldsal^ 
then  ourselves,  each  one  driving  before  him  or  I 
his  own  mule ;  then  an  Indian^carryingf  the  silla, 
relief  carriers,  and  several  boys  bearing  small  bags^ 
provisions,  the  Indians  of  the  silla  being  much 
at  our  not  using  them  according  to  oontraot  and 
price  paid.  Though  toiling  excessively,  we  felt  a 
of  degradation  at  being  carried  on  a  man's  shouldssBi 
At  that  time  I  was  in  the  worst  condition  of  the  thro% 
and  the  night  before  had  gone  to  bed  at  San 
without  supper,  which  for  any  of  us  was  sure  evi 
of  being  in  a  bad  way. 

'  We  had  Inrought  the  silla  with  us  merely  as  a 
ure  of  precaution,  with  much  expectation  of 
obliged  to  use  it ;  but  at  a  steep  pitch,  which  made  ny 
iMad  almost  burst  to  think  of  climbing,  I  resorted  to  41 
for  the  jBrst  time.  It  was  a  large,  clumsy  armchair^ 
together  with  wooden  pins  and  bark  strings.  The 
dian  who  was  to  carry  me,  like  all  the  others,  was 
not  more  than  five  feet  seven,  very  thin,  but  sjiimnrBll 
oally  ibnied.  A  bark  strap  was  tied  to  the 
die  chair,  and,  sitting  down,  he  placed  his  faaok 
the  teak  aC.lbe  chair,  adjusted  the  Iragth  of  the 


'.« 


'> 


^ 


# 


» 


i     4 


4    P1|BCARIX>U8    SITVATION.  876 

and  smoothes  th^  jbaik  across  his  forehead  witfi  a  little 
cushion  to  lelie-ve  H^  pressure.  An  Indian  on  each 
side  lifted  it  up,  and  the  carrier  rose  on  his  feet,  stood 
still  a  moment,  threw  me  up  once  or  twice  to  adjust  me 
on  his  shoulders,  and  set  off  with  one  man  on  each  side. 
It  was  a  great  relief,  but  I  could  feel  every  movement, 
even  to  the  heaving  of  his  chest*  The  ascent  was  one 
<if  the  steepest  on  the  whole  road.  In  a  few  minutes  t>« 
slopped  and  sent  forth  a  sound,  usual  with  j^dian  car* 
tiers,  between  a  whistle  and  a  blow,  always  painful  to 
my  ears,  but  which  I  never  felt  so  disagreeably  before. 
My  face  was  turned  bai^kward ; '  I  could  not  see  where 
ke  was  going,  but  observed  that  the  Indian  on  the  left 
Ml  back*.  Not  to  increase  the  labour  of  carrying  me, 
I  sat  as  still  as  possible ;  but  in  a  few  minutes,  looking 
euor  my  shoulder,  saw  that  we  were  approaching  the 
lidge  of  a  precipice  more  than  a  thousand  feet  deep. 
Hete  I  became  very  anxious  to  dismount;  but  I  could 
not  q>eak  intelligibly,  and  the  Indians  could  or  would 
not  understand  my  signs.  My  carrier  moved  along 
eerefelly)  with  his  left  foot  first,  feeUng  that  the  stone 
'on  which  he  put  it  down  was  steady  and  secure  before 
be  brou^t  up  the  other,  and  by  degrees,  after  a  partic- 
ularly careful  movement,  brought  both  feet  up  within 
half  a  step  of  the  edge  of  the  precipice,  stopped,  and 
gave  a  fearful  whistle  and  blow.  '  I  rose  and  fell  with 
every  breath,  felt  his  body  trembling  under  me,  and  \m 
YspeeB  seemed  giving  way.  The  precipice  was  awfid| 
and  the  slightest  irregular  movement  on  my  part  might 
taring  us  both  down  together.  I  would  have  given  him 
s  lelease  in  fiiU  for  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  be  off  his 
beok;  but  he  started  again,  and  with  the  samoicare  as* 
oeaded  several  steps,  so  close  to  the  edge  that  even  on 
the  back  of  a  mul»  it  would  have  been  very  unoomfin^ 


> 


▼# 


%$> 


^1 

fiM  tycxDJKiiTA  or  ti|^^M|v> 


ableb  ]^  f ey  lest  he  ahould  bre^  4|ipn^  # 
excesaiTe.  To  my  extreme  r elie^  j^  path  turned 
but  I  had  hardly  congratulated  myself  upon  my 
before  he  descended  a  few  steps, ,  This  was  much 
than  ascending ;  if  he  fell,  nothing  could  keep  me 
going  over  his  head;  but  I  remained  till  he  pill 
down  of  his  own  accord.  The  poor  fellow  was 
with  pertq^irationi  and  trembled  in  every  limb.  Anolhl 
er  stood  Zjpady  to  take  me  up,  but  I  had  had 
Pawling  tried  it,  but  only  for  a  short  time.  It 
enough  to  see  qui  Indian  toiling  with. a  dead  weight 
his  back ;  but  to  feel-  l^m  tren^ling  under  one'i 
body,  hear  his  hard  Iweathing,  see  the  sweat 
down  him,  and  feel  the  insecurity  of  the  posit^ooy 
this  a  mode  of  travelling  whicn  nothing  but 
tional  laziness  and  insensibility  could  endure.  Wa|hl 
ingi  or  rather  climbing,  stopping  very  often  to 
and  riding  when  it  was  at  all  practicable,  we  r 
a  thatched  shed,  where  we  wished  to  stop  for  the  ni^hi^ 
but  there  was  no  water.  v« 

We  could  not  understand  how  far  it  was  to  Mop^i 
our  intended  stopping-place,  which  we  supposed  to  ha 
on  the  top  of  the  mountain.  To  every  question  the  Ib» 
dians  answered  una  legua.  Thinking  it  could  not  ha 
much  higher,  we  continued.  For  an  hour  more  we  haA 
a  very  steep  ascent,  and  then  commenced  a  terribia 
descent.  At  this  time  the  sun  had  disappeared ;  daA 
clouds  overhung  the  woods,  and  thunder  rolled  heavily 
on  the  top  of  the  mountain.  As  we  descended  a  hea^ 
wind  swept  through  the  forest ;  the  air-  was  filled  witk- 
dry  leaves ;  branches  were  snapped  and  broken, 
bent,  and.  there  was  every  appearance  of  a  violent 
nado.  To  hurry  down  on  foot  was  out  of  the  quastioB* 
We  were  so  tired  that  it  was  impossible ;  and,  afraid  af 


*.  't'^' 


teng  tiUfjb^  ion  Ao  moiiiitaiii  by  a  hmriosne  ond  del* 
fif^  of  nBii|  WB  i(|yurrod  down  as  fast  aa  we  could  go* 
ft  "waa  tt  ocmtiinied  deaeent,  without  any  relief,  stony, 
aaMl  Toy  steep.  Very  often  the  mules  stopped,  afraid 
tei  go  on ;  and  in  one  place  the  two  empty  mules  bolted 
into  tfie  dnek  woods  rather  than  proceed.  Fortunately 
6nr  the  reader,  this  is  our  last  mountain,  and  I  can  end 
honestly  with  a  climax :  it  was  the  worst  mountain  I 
ever  encountered  in  that  or  any  other  country,  and,  un- 
der our  apprehension  of  the  storm,  I  will  venture  to  say 
that  no  travellers  ever  descended  in  less  time.  At  a 
^tarter  b>fore  five  we  reached  the  plain.  The  mount- 
till  was  hidden  by  clouds,  and  the  storm  was  now  ra- 
ging above  ns.  We  crossed  a  river,  and  continuing 
Amg  it  through  a  thick  forest,  reached  the  rancho  of' 
Kbpa. 

It  was  situated  in  a  circular  clearing  about  one  hun- 
if^  feet  in  diameter,  near  the  river,  with  the  forest 
■raund  so  thick  with  brush  and  underwood  that  the 
BKdes  could  not  penetrate  it,  and  with  no  opening  but 
^  the  passage  of  the  road  through  it.  The  rancho 
^'^  merely  a  pitched  roof  covered  with  palm-leaves, 
•"id  supported  by  four  trunks  of  trees.  All  around 
^''^re  heaps  of  snail-shells,  and  the  ground  of  the  rancho 
^'^  several  inches  deep  with  ashes,  the  remains  of  fires 
^  cooking  them.  We  had  hardly  congratulated  our- 
•eWes  upon  our  arrival  at  such  a  beautiful  spot,  before 
^■"^  suffered  such -an  onslaught  of  moschetoes  as  we  had 
^^^  before  experienced  in  the  country.  We  made  a 
™^,  and,  with  appetites  sharpened  by  a  hard  day's 
^^^k,  sat  down  on  the  gross  to  dispose  of  a  San  Pedro 
*^1;  but  we  were  obliged  to  get  up,  and  while  one 
^'^^d  was  docupied  with  eatables,  use  the  other  to  brush 
^  die  Tenomons  inseets.    We  80(m  saw  that  we  had 

24 


>  • 


*^ 


«  ' 


^ 


I 


tn  UrciDW-VS    OF    TJU&T#Pm* 

bad  prospeoti  fsr  the  night,  Ughted  fire»  tU 
rancho,  and  smoked  inordiaately;    Wa  ^are  ia  at 
ry  to  lie  down,  and  sat  till  a  late  hour, 
selyes  with  the  reflection  that,  but  tot  the 
our  satisfaction  would  be  beyond  all  boiHi<lk     l%e 
border  of  the  clearing  was  lighted  up  by  firefliea  6f 
traordinary  size  and  brilliancy  darting  among  the 
not  flashing  and  disappearing,  bnt  carrying  a 
light;   and,  except  that  their  course  was 
seeming  like  shooting  stars.     In  different  placea 
were  two  that  remained  stationary,  emitting  a  pale 
beautiful  light,  and  seemed  like  rival  belles  lioldai|f 
levees.     The  fiery  orbs  darted  from  one  to  the  othei^ 
and  when  one,  more  daring  than  the  rest,  appiooehil 
too  near,  the  coquette  withdrew  her  light,  and  theflMh 
terer  went  off.     One,  however,  carried  all  before  htlti 
and  at  one  time  we  counted  seven  hovering  around  her. 
Atlength  we  prepared  for  sleep.     Hammocks  wonM 
leave  us  exposed  on  every  side  to  the  merciless  attacks 
of  the  moschetoes,  and  we   spread  our  mats  on  ihs 
ground.     Wc  did  not  undress.     Pawling,  with  a  great 
deal  of  trouble,  rigged  his  sheets  into  a  moscheto-neli 
but  it  was  so  hot  that  he  could  not  breathe  under  them, 
and  he  roamed  about  or  was  in  the  river  nearly  all  night 
The  Indians  had  occupied  themselves  in  catching  snaib 
and  cooking  them  for  supper,  and  then  lay  down  to 
sleep  on  the  banks  of  the  river ;  but  at  midnight,  with 
sharp  thunder  and  lightning,  the  rain  broke  in  a  delogs, 
and  they  all  came  under  the  shed,  and  there  they  hj 
perfectly  naked,  mechanically,  and  without  seeming  Is 
disturb   themselves,  slapping   their  bodies  with  their 
hands.     The  incessant  hum  and  bite  of  the  insects  kift 
us  in  a  constant  state  of  wakefulness  and  irritatioB. 
Our  bodies  we  could  protect,  bnt  tnth  a  ooftmng^effm 


«  'w 


^ 


Ihft  fcjMhai  fcfit  ii«ft:JHMiffembIe.    Aefare  dayligbl  I 
I  tla ADMi  Vfliioh  was  farqpul  aodahaUow^  and 
«ai|w]C  eoMm  tte  gravelly,  bottom,  whore  tha 
waatafalydaap-eiiough  to  run  oTer  my  body.    It 
ibaJMi  eonifortable  moment  I  bad  bad.    My  beat> 
lodjrIiaeaBie  coolad,  and  I  lay  till  dfiyligfat.    When 
ladMB  they  eame  upon  me  with  appetites  whet^ 
tad  by  a  spoit  #f  Tengaance.    Our  day's  work  had  been 

hard,  but  the  night's  was  .worse.  Tha 
aky  how»Ter|  was  refireshing,  and  as  day  dawn« 
imaators  disaf^peared^  Mr.  Catherwood  had 
laaat,  bat  in  his  restlessness  he  had  lost  from 
a  precious  emerald  ring,  which  he  had  worn 
many  years,  and  priaed  for  associations.  We  re- 
some  time  looking  Ux  it,  and  at  length  mount- 
ad  and  made  our  last  start  for  Palenque.  The  road  was 
Isyai,  but  the  woods  were  still  as  thick  as  on  the  mount- 
sin»  At  a  quarter  before  eleven  we  reached  a  path 
wUcb  led  to  the  ruins,  or  somewhere  else.  We  had 
abandoq|^  the  intention  of  going  directly  to  the  ruins, 
te,  basMf  that  we  were  in  a  shattered  condition,  we 
eovld  SKiC  communicate  at  all  with  our  Indians,  and 
psobably  they  did  not  know  where  the  ruins  were.  At 
langth  we  came  out  upon  an  open  plain,  and  looked 
baok  at  tba  range  we  had  crossed,  running  off  to  Peten 
and  the  country  of  uobaptized  Indians. 

As  we  advanced  we  came  into  a  region  of  fine  paa- 
tans  g|Dom4*,  and  saw  herds  of  cattle.  The  grass  show- 
ad  tbe  a&ct  of  early  rains,  and  the  picturesque  appear- 
of  the  country  reminded  me  of  many  a  scene  at 
;-  bitt  there  was  a  tree  of  singular  beauty  that  was 
a  atsanger,  having  a  high,  naked  trunk  and  spreading 
tap^  with  leaves  of  vivid  green,  covered  with  yellow 
UMtinuiog  oaxalesa^,,  and  stopping  £rom  time 


.V- 


_c 


IKCIDBNTS    OF    TRAT»L. 

to  time  to  enjoy  the  smiling  view  around,  and  re^iae 
escape  from  the  dark  mountains  behindi  we  rose  npaa  m 
slight  table  of  land  and  saw  the  village  befcve  us^  oonsHU 
ing  of  one  grass-grown  street,  unbroken  even  by  a  nnilo- 
path,  with  a  few  straggling  white  houses  on  eaoh  side, 
on  a  slight  elevation  at  the  farther  end  a  thatched  churohi 
with  a  rude  cross  and  belfiry  before  it.  A  boy  could  roll 
on  the  grass  from  the  church  door  out  of  the  village,  is 
fact,  it  was  the  most  dead-and-alive  place  I  ever  wkw*. 
but,  coming  from  villages  thronged  with  wild  igMJi^m^ 
its  air  of  repose  was  most  grateful  to  us.  In  the  suburbs 
were  scattered  Indian  huts;  and  as  we  rode  into  the 
street,  eight  or  ten  white  people,  men  and  women,  cams 
out,  more  than  we  had  seen  since  we  left  Comitan,  and 
the  houses  had  a  comfortable  and  respectable  appear- 
ance. In  one  of  them  lived  the  alcalde,  a  white  man, 
about  sixty,  dressed  in  white  cotton  drawers,  and  ahiit 
outside,  respectable  in  his  appearance,  with  a  stoop  in 
his  shoulders,  but  the  expression  of  liis  face  was  very 
doubtful.  With  what  I  intended  as  a  most  captivating 
manner,  I  otfercd  him  my  passport ;  but  we  had  dis- 
turbed liim  at  his  siesta;  he  had  risen  wrong  side  first; 
and,  looking  me  steadily  in  the  face,  he  asked  me  what 
he  had  to  do  with  my  passport.  This  I  could  not  an- 
swer ;  and  he  went  on  to  say  that  he  had  nothing  to  do 
with  it,  and  did  not  want  to  have ;  we  must  go  to  the 
prefeto.  Then  he  turned  round  two  or  three  times  in  a 
circle,  to  show  he  did  not  care  what  we  thought  of  him; 
and,  as  if  conscious  of  what  was  passing  in  our  minds, 
volunteered  to  add  that  complaints  had  been  made 
against  him  before,  but  it  was  of  no  use ;  they  couldn't 
remove  him,  and  if  they  did  lie  didn't  care. 

This  greeting  at  the  end  of  our  severe  journey  was 
rather  discouraging,  but  it  was  important  for  us  not  to 


teva^uq^^difisrity  vith  this  crusty  offidal ;  and,  endeof  i* 

OBBipg  t»  hifc  •  Tolnflf  hie  point,  told  him  that  ws  wished 

Ip  «tep  sirjstsr^lays  to  rest,  and  should  be  obliged  to 

por^aae  nuHny  things.    We  asked  him  if  there  was 

SBj  braad  in  die  Tillage;   he  answered,  "no  hay/' 

fMksB*  iMMnie ;''  oom  1  "  no  hay ;"  catbe  ?  "  no  hay ;'' 

dMaoiatef  "no  hay.''     His  satisfaction  seemed  to  iao 

a#  he  was  still  able  to  answnr  "  no  bay ;"  but 

msCDrtunate  inquiries  for  bread  roused  his  ire.    lap 

r,  and  without  intending  any  offenee,  we  be- 

iBvyed  oar  disajqpointment ;  and  Joan,  looking  out  for 

said  that  we  could  not  eat  tortillas.     This  he 

to^  repeated  several  times  to  himself,  and  to 

new-comer  said,  with  peculiar  emphasis,  they 

't  eat  tortillas.     Following  it  up,  he  said  there  was 

-even  in  the  place,  but  no  flour,  and  the  baker  went 

ly  ecTen  years  before;  the  people  there  could  do 

bread*     To  change  the  subject,  and  determined 

to  complain,  I  threw  out  the  conciliatory  remark, 

tkMt^plifll  events,  we  were  glad  to  escape  from  the  rain 

tffr:lBdimtains,  which  he  answered  by  asking  if  we 

aything  better  in  Palenque,  and  he  repeated 

"^iih  great  satisfacticm  an  expression  common  in  the 

^W^  wilhi]  of  Falenquians:    '  tres  meses  de  ague,  tree  meses 

^^agimoetosyseismesesdenortes,'  "three  months  rains, 

thxee  months  heavy  showers,  and  six  months  north 

^ind,"  which  in  that  country  brings  cold  and  rain. 

Fsndimff^ii  inq>ossible  to  hit  a  weak  point,  while  the 

piling  up  the  luggage  I  rode  to  the  prefect, 

reoeptioo  at  that  critical  moment  was   most 

and  reviving.     With  habitual  courtesy  he  ofi> 

'^'^ed  flOB  a  ohair  and  a  cigar,  and  as  soon  as  he  saw  my 

l^^mpuil  said  he  had  been  expecting  me  for  some  time. 

^bis  surprised  me ;  and  he  added  that  Don  Patriciobad 

YoL.  n.— N  N 


9Bt  INCIDIITTI    OF    TEA^Slk 

told  liim  I  was  cxnning,  which*  surpriBed  me  «till  m»% 
as  I  did  not  remember  any  friend  of  that  name,  hil 
soon  learned  that  this  imposing  cognomen  meant  ny 
friend  Mr.  Patrick  Walker^  of  Belize.  This  was  Ike 
first  notice  of  Mr.  Walker  and  Captain  Caddy  I  had 
received  since  Lieutenant  Nicols  brought  to  GhsuitisBale 
the  report  that  they  had  been  speared  by  the  Indians^ 
They  had  reached  Palenque  by  the  Belize  River  aai 
Lake  of  Peten,  without  any  other  difliculties  than  freqi 
the  badness  of  the  roads,  had  remained  two  weeks  *el 
the  ruins,  and  left  for  the  Laguna  and  Yucatan.  Ties 
was  most  gratifying  intelligence,  first,  as  it  assured  ms 
of  their  safety,  and  second,  as  I  gathered  from  it  thit 
there  would  be  no  impediment  to  our  visiting  the  miiiiu 
The  apprehension  of  being  met  at  the  end  of  our  toii« 
some  journey  with  a  peremptory  exclusion  had  eQ»» 
stantly  disturbed  us  more  or  less,  and  sometimas 
weighed  upon  us  like  lead.  We  had  determined  ta 
make  no  reference  to  the  ruins  until  we  had  an  oppoi^ 
tmiity  of  ascertaining  our  ground,  and  up  to  that  UKh 
ment  I  did  not  know  but  that  all  our  labour  waef  bod* 
less.  To  heighten  my  satisfaction,  the  prefect  said  that 
the  place  was  perfectly  quiet ;  it  was  in  a  retired  nookt 
which  revolutions  and  political  convulsions  never  reach- 
ed. He  had  held  his  office  twenty  years,  acknowledg- 
ing as  many  different  governments. 

I  returned  to  make  my  report,  and  in  regard  to  die 
old  alcalde,  in  the  language  of  a  ward-meeting  mani- 
festo, determined  to  ask  for  nothing  but  what  was  right, 
and  to  submit  to  nothing  that  was  wrong.  In  this  spint 
we  made  a  bold  stand  for  some  corn.  The  alcalde's 
"  no  hay"  was  but  too  true  ;  the  corn-crop  had  failedf 
and  there  was  an  actual  famine  in  the  place.  The  In- 
dians,  with   accustomed    improvidence,   had   planted 


Mtuly  mwgh  to  'A>  iBtfioa,  and  tUt  tuniin^  ettt  btd^ 
<toj^^<iiwti  BMlUMd  16  fruity  pki^teiai)  ihi  roots  ia* 
xdtBntilkm  ]^teh  white  ftunOy  had  aboot  enoogli 
ilr  oHm  imej  b«C  none  to  spave.  The  shortnefli  of 
u»ii-<imi  made  everything  eke  scarce,  as  they  were 
to'hfll  their  ^wb  asd  pigs  from  want  of  any* 
to  feed  them  with;  The  alcalde^  who  to  his  other 
added  Aat  ci  being  rich,  was  the  only  man  in 
yiaoe  who  had  any  to  spare,  and  he  was  holding  on 
■  greater  pressnre.  At  Tnmbala  we  had  bought 
com  at  thirty  ears  for  sizpenoe ;  here,  with  great 
difficnlty,  we  prevailed  upon  the  alcalde  to  spare  us  a 
little  at  eight  ears  for  a  shilling,  and  these  were  so 
mosty  and  worm-eaten  that  the  mules  would  hardly 
UmA  Hiem.  At  first  it  surprised  us  that  some  enter- 
pnring  eapitfldist  did  not  import  several  dollars'  worth 
Tntnbala ;  but  on  going  deeper  into  the  matter  we 
Aat  the  cost  of  transportation  would  not  leave 
profit^  and,  besides,  the  course  of  exchange  was 
^jjtlgitfi^MenqjBte.  A  few  back-loads  would  oviorstock 
AHwliiift  ;^  Ibr  as  each  white  family  was  provided  till 
neitl  crop  came  in,  the  Indians  were  the  only  per- 
who'  wished  to  purehase,  and  tkey  had  no  money 
t^tuy  with.  The  brunt  of  the  famine  fell  upon  us,  and 
yafliuuharly  upon  our  poor  imiles.  Fortunately,  how 
ever,  ihete  was  good  pasture,  and  not  far  off.  We 
si^ed  the  brklles  at  the  door  and  turned  them  loose 
fai  Ae  streets ;  but  after  making  the  circuit  they  came* 
bftek  in  a  body,  and  poked  their  heads  in  at  the  do<Mr 
^Htb  an  hnploring  look  for  oom. 
''  Onr  prospects  were  not  very  brilliant ;  nevertheless^ 
had  reached  Palenque,  and  toward  evening  storms 
on,  with  terrific  thunder  and  lightning,  which 
e  us  feel  but  too  happy  that  our  journey  was  over; 


IMCIPKNTS    OF    TWLATMh' 

The  house  aveigned  to  us  by  the  alcaide  was  next  km 
own,  and  belonged  to  himself.  It  had  a  cosioa  adU 
joinings  and  two  Indian  women,  who  did  not  dare  look 
at  us  without  permission  from  the  alcalde.  It  had  att 
earthen  floor,  three  beds  made  of  reeds,  and  a  thatphad 
roof,  very  good,  except  that  over  two  of  the  beds  jt 
leaked.  Under  the  peaked  roof  and  across  the  top-^ 
the  mud  walls  there  was  a  floor  made  of  poles,  aernm 
as  a  granary  for  the  alcalde's  mouldy  corn,  inhabilail 
by  industrious  mice,  which  scratched,  nibbled,  squeak* 
ed,  and  sprinkled  dust  upon  us  all  night.  Neverthe- 
less, we  had  reached  Palenque,  and  slept  welL 

The  next  day  was  Sunday,  and  we  hailed  it  as  a 
day  of  rest.  Heretofore,  in  all  my  travels,  I  had  endeav* 
cured  to  keep  it  as  such,  but  in  this  country  I  had  found 
it  impossible.  The  place  was  so  tranquil,  and  seemed 
in  such  a  state  of  repose,  that  as  the  old  alcalde  paavd 
the  door  we  ventured  to  wish  him  a  good-morning ; 
but  again  he  had  got  up  wrong ;  and,  without  answering 
our  greeting,  stopped  to  tell  us  that  our  mules  were 
missing,  and,  as  this  did  not  disturb  us  sufficiently,  he 
added  that  they  were  probably  stolen;  but  when  he 
had  got  us  fairly  roused  and  on  the  point  of  setting  off 
to  look  for  them,  he  ^aid  there  was  no  danger ;  they 
had  only  gone  for  watei ,  and  would  return  of  them- 
selves. 

The  village  of  Palenque,  as  we  learned  from  the  pre* 
feet,  was  once  a  place  of  considerable  importance,  all 
the  goods  imported  for  Guatimala  passing  through  it ; 
but  Balize  had  diverted  that  trade  and  destroyed  its 
oommercc,  and  but  a  few  years  before  more  than  half 
the  population  had  been  swept  off  by  the  cholera. 
Whole  families  had  perished,  and  their  houses  were 
desolate  and  falling  to  ruins.     The  church  stood  at  the 


bead  of  tli»  ttreet,  m  the  centre  of  a  grassy  square.    On 

each  side  of  the  square  were  houses  with  the  forest  di* 

re0ll3r  npoir  tiiem ;  and,  being  a  little  elevated  in  the 

jrisoB,  W6  were  on  a  line  with  the  tops  of  the  trees. 

The  largest  house  on  the  square  was  deserted  and  m 

rvkm.     There  were  a  dozen  other  houses  occupied  by 

while  faaailies,  with  whom,  in  the  course  of  an  hour's 

Hidll)  I  became  acquainted.     It  was  but  to  stop  before 

die  dooT|  and  I  received  an  invitation,  '^Pasen  ade- 

hnte)*'  ^  Walk  in,  captain,"  for  which  title  I  was  in* 

debted  to  the  eagle  on  my  hat.     Each  family  had  its 

liacieBda  in  the  neighbourhood,  and  in  the  course  of  an 

laoor  I  faiew  all  that  was  going  on  in  Palenque ;  i.,  e.* 

I   knew  that  nothing  was  going  on. 

At  die  upper  end  of  the  square,  commanding  this 
e  of  quiet,  was  the  house  of  an  American  named 
Brown !  It  was  a  strange  place  for  the  abode 
an  American,  and  Mr.  Brown  was  a  regular  "  go* 
**  American.  In  the  great  lottery  he  had  drawn 
Pskaqoian  wife,  which  in  that  quiet  place  probably 
vet^kun  from  dying  of  ennui»  What  first  took  him 
the  oountry  I  do  not  know ;  but  he  had  an  exclusive 
IP^ivilege  to  navigate  the  Tobasco  River  by  steam,  and 
^ald  have  made  a  fortune,  but  his  steamboat  founder* 
oa  the  second  trip.  He  then  took  to  cutting  log- 
^^cx>d  on  a  new  plan,  and  came  very  near  making  an* 
^^^m  faktnne,  but  something  went  wrong.  At  the  time 
viie&t  he  was  engaged  in  canalling  a  short  cut  to 
i  to  tonnect  two  rivers  near  his  hacienda.  To 
astODishmtnt  of  the  Palenquians,  he  was  always 
y  when  he  night  live  quiedy  on  his  hacienda  in  the 
and  pasb  his  winters  in  the  village.  Very 
>^2ch  to  our  regret,  Ke  was  not  then  in  the  village.    It 


/. 


iKciDBirTa  or  traybl. 

would  haTe  been  interesting  to  meet  a  oountrynmttfl 
his  stamp  in  that  quiet  comer  of  the  world.  « 

The  prefeto  was  well  versed  in  the  history  of 
que.  It  is  in  the  province  of  Tzendales,  and  for  a 
tnry  after  the  conquest  of  Chiapas  it  remained  in 
session  of  the  Indians.  Two  centuries  ago,  Lo: 
Mugil,  an  emissary  direct  from  Rome,  set  up 
them  the  standard  of  the  cross.  The  Indians  still 
serve  his  dress  as  a  sacred  relic,  but  they  are  jealM 
of  showing  it  to  strangers,  and  I  could  not  obtai9«4 
sight  of  it.  The  bell  of  the  church,  too,  was  sent  tnm 
the  holy  city.  The  Indians  submitted  to  the  domiittH 
of  the  Spaniards  until  the  year  1700,  when  the  whidtf 
province  revolted,  and  in  Chillon,  Tumbala,  and  fifr 
lenque  they  apostatized  from  Christianity,  murdflred 
the  priests,  profaned  the  churches,  paid  impious  adoaa 
tion  to  an  Indian  female,  massacred  the  white  men,  aai 
took  the  women  for  their  wives.  But,  as  soon  as  the  i 
telligence  reached  Guatimala,  a  strong  force  was 
against  them,  the  revolted  towns  were  reduced  and 
covered  to  the  Catholic  faith,  and  tranquillity  was  re- 
stored. The  right  of  the  Indians,  however,  to  the  own- 
ership of  the  soil  was  still  recognised,  and  down  to  tkm 
time  of  the  Mexican  Independence  they  received  raH 
for  land  in  the  villages  and  the  milpas  in  the  neigh- 
hourhood. 

A  short  distance  from  Palenque  the  River  Cbacamal 
separates  it  from  the  country  of  the  unbaptized  IndianSy 
who  are  here  called  Caribs.  Fifty  years  ago  the  Pw^ 
dre  Caldcron,  an  uncle  of  the  prefect's  w'ife,  attended 
by  his  sacristan,  an  Indian,  was  bathing  in  the  rivefy 
when  the  latter  cried  out  in  alarm  that  some  Carite 
were  looking  at  them,  and  attempted  to  fly;  but  tbs 
padre  took  his  cane  and  went  toward  them.     The  Cap 


' .  r 


PEBPAB^VIOKS    rOH    M  O  V»B  KB  B  ?  I  NO. 

MI  down  before  him,  ocmdueted  him  to  their  huts, 
ead  gave  him  an  invitation  to  return,  and  make  them 
on  a  certain  day.  On  the  day  appointed  the 
went  with  his  saeristan,  and  found  a  gathering 
af  .Caribe  and  a  great  feast  prepared  for  him.  He  re- 
■Mined  with  them  some  time,  and  invited  them  in  re- 
tMBi  to  the  village  of  Palenque  on  the  day  of  the  Ute 
ef  r  St.  Domingo.  A  large  party  of  these  wild  Indians 
ipmded,  bringing  with  them  tiger's  meat,  monkey's 
and  cocoa  as  presents.  They  listened  to  mass, 
beheld  all  the  ceremonies  of  the  Church ;  where* 
apon  they  invited  the  padre  to  come  among  them  and 
leach  them,  and  they  erected  a  hut  at  the  place,  where 
they  had  first  met  him,  which  he  consecrated  as  a 
church ;  and  he  taught  his  sacristan  to  say  mass  to 
Ihem  every  Sunday.  As  the  prefect  said,  if  he  had 
Kved,  many  of  them  would  probably  have  been  Cbris- 
tiuiized ;  but,  unfortunately,  he  died ;  the  Caribs  re- 
ined into  the  wilderness,  and  not  one  had  appeared  in 
Ike  village  since. 

The  ruins  lie  about  eight  miles  from  the  village,  per- 
fectly desolate.  The  road  was  so  bad,  that,  in  order  to 
aoeomplish  anything,  it  was  necessary  to  remain  there, 
end  we  had  to  make  provision  for  that  purpose.  There 
were  three  small  shops  in  the  village,  the  stock  of  all 
together  not  worth  seventy-five  dollars ;  but  in  one  of 
tlMm  we  found  a  pound  and  a  half  of  coffee,  which  we 
immediately  secured.  Juan  communicated  the  gratify- 
ing intelligence  that  a  hog  was  to  be  killed  the  next 
morning,  and  that  he  had  engaged  a  portion  of  the 
laid ;  also,  that  there  was  a  cow  with  a  calf  running 
leoae,  and  an  arrangement  might  be  made  for  keeping 
bar  up  and  milking  her.  This  was  promptly  attended 
tOy  and  all  necessary  arrangements  were  made  for  vis- 


.Ji 


IMCIDBITTB      OV    TftA^BJ 


iting  the  tiubb  the  next  day.  The 
knew  the  road,  but  there  was  onlj  «!ie  man  in  thi 
phice  who  was  able  to  serve  asa  gnide  on  tiie  groaai} 
and  he  had  on  hand  the  business  of  killing  and  distrik 
uting  the  hog,  by  reason  whereof  he  could  not  set  sM 
with  usy  but  promised  to  follow. 

Toward  evening  the  quiet  of  the  village  was  distal^ 
ed  by  a  crash,  and  on  going  out  we  found  that  a  heifi 
had  fallen  down.  A  cloud  of  dust  rose  fhxn  it,  and  fp 
ruins  probably  lie  as  they  fell.  The  cholera  had  slrij^ 
ped  it  of  tenants,  and  for  several  years  it  had  been  ih 
serted. 


OVTFie   FOB     TIBITIlia    THB    RUIX8. 

y-\    ^».,-"  -».  y  .t 


CHAPTER  XVn. 

wpiratiflni  far  vuitinf  tha  Roini.— A  Tarn-oat.— Departare.— The  Ro«L— 
Rivm  If  ieol  ind  OtoU.— ArriTal  at  the  Rafaia.— The  Pahuw.— A  Fea-de-jote. 
Qoaiteie  ta  the  Palace.— Inacriptioiis  by  farmer  ViaiterL— The  Fata  of 
laanham  TTiirirmrj  of  the  Ruins  of  Palenque.— Visit  of  Del  Ria— Expe- 
blOD  of  Dopaix.— Drawings  of  the  present  Work.— First  Dinner  at  the  Ro- 
ifei— MMnmolh  Fheftasu— Sleeping  Apartments.- Extent  of  the  RimMu— Ob 
ftaeke  to  EzplomtioiL— fiaHering  from  Moechetoea. 

'  Early  the  next  morning  we  prepared  for  our  more  to 

be  mins.     We  had  to  make  provision  for  housekeeping 

n  a  large  scale ;  our  culinary  utensils  were  of  rude 

ottery,  and  our  cups  the  hard  shells  of  some  round 

egetables,  the  whole  cost,  perhaps,  amounting  to  one 

oOar.     We  could  not  procure  a  water- jar  in  the  place, 

tt  the  alcalde  lent  us  one  free  of  charge  unless  it 

oald  be  broken,  and  as  it  was  cracked  at  the  time  he 

>bably  considered  it  sold.     By-the-way,  we  forced 

Selves  upon  the  alcalde's  affections  by  leaving  our 

^ej  with  him  for  safe-keeping.     We  did  this  with 

U  publicity,  in  order  that  it  might  be  known  in  the 

ge  that  there  was  no  <<  plata"  at  the  ruins,  but  the 

Ide  regarded  it  as  a  mark  of  special  confidence. 

ed,  we  could  not  have  shown  him  a  greater.     He 

1  suspicious  old  miser,  kept  his  own  money  in  a 

in  an  inner  room,  and  never  left  the  house  with- 

cking  the  street  door  and  carrying  the  key  vrith 

He  made  us  pay  beforehand  for  everything  we 

1,  and  would  not  have  trusted  us  half  a  dollar 

account. 

I 

B  necessary  to  take  with  us  from  the  village  all 
Id  contribute  to  our  comfort,  and  we  tried-  hard 

woman  ;  but  no  one  would  trust  herself  aknw 

II.— O  o  25 


4N0  iiroiDBHTB   or   TmAVBI. 

with  us.  This  was  a  great  privation;  a  woman 
desirable,  not,  as  the  reader  may  suppose,  for  embelp 
lishmeiit,  but  to  make  tortillas.  These,  to  be  tolerable, 
must  be  eaten  the  moment  they  are  baked;  but  we 
were  obliged  to  make  an  arrangement  with  the  alealde 
to  send  them  out  daily  with  the  product  of  our  cow. 

Our  turn-out  was  equal  to  anything  we  hadhadontte 
toad.     One  Indian  set  off  with  a  cowhide  trunk  od  Ui 
back,  supported  by  a  bark  string,  as  the  groundwork  4if 
his  load,  while  on  each  side  bung  by  a  bark  string- a 
fowl  wrapped  in  plantain  leaves,  the  head  and  tail  only 
being  visible.     Another  had  on  the  top  of  his  trunk 
live  turkey,  with  its  legs  tied  and  wings  eipand6d,^> 
like  a  spread  eagle.     Another  had  on  each  side  of 
load  strings  of  eggs,  each  egg  being  wrapped  car< 
in  a  husk  of  corn,  and  all  fastened  like  onions 
bark  string.      Cooking  utensils  and  water-jar  w 
mounted  on  the  backs  of  other  Indians,  and  con 
rice,  beans,  sugar,  chocolate,  &c. ;  strings  of  pork  and 
bunches  of  plantains  were  pendent ;  and  Juan  carried 
in  his  arms  our  travelling  tin  coffee-canister  filled  with 
lard,  which  in  that  country  was  always  in  a  liquid  state. 

At  half  past  seven  we  left  the  village.  For  a  short 
distance  the  road  was  open,  but  very  soon  we  entered  a 
forest,  which  continued  unbroken  to  the  ruins,  and  prob- 
ably many  miles  beyond.  The  road  was  a  mere  Indian 
footpath,  the  branches  of  the  trees,  beaten  down  and 
heavy  with  the  rain,  hanging  so  low  that  we  were 
obliged  to  stoop  constantly,  and  very  soon  our  hats  and 
ooats  were  perfectly  wet.  From  the  thickness  of  the 
foliage  the  morning  sun  could  not  dry  up  the  deluge  of 
the  night  before.  The  ground  was  very  muddy,  bro- 
ken by  streams  swollen  by  the  early  rains,  with  gulli< 
in  which  the  mules  floundered  and  stuck  iaat^  in 


TJBI    BVZKa    OF    PALBNQUB.  Ml 

Y«ry  difficult  to  cross.  Amid  all  the  wreck  of 
nothing  ever  spoke  so  forcibly  the  world's  mn- 
titioiis  u  this  immense  forest  shrouding  what  was  once 
m  great  city.  Once  it  had  been  a  great  highway,  throng- 
ad  with  people  who  were  stimulated  by  the  same  pas- 
sions  that  give  impulse  to  human  action  now  ;  and  they 
•te  all  gone,  their  habitations  buried,  and  no  traces  of 
^smleft. 

In  two  hours  we  reached  the  River  Micol,  and  in  half 
wax  hour  more  that  of  Qtula,  darkened  by  the  shade  of 
the  woods,  and  breaking  beautifully  over  a  stony  bed. 
Pording  this,  very  soon  we  saw  masses  of  stones,  and 
tten  a  round  sculptured  stone.  We  spurred  up  a  sharp 
nt  of  fragments,  so  steep  that  the  mules  could  barely 

it,  to  a  terrace  so  covered,  like  the  whole  road, 
with  trees,  that  it  was  impossible  to  make  out  the  form. 
Continuing  on  this  terrace,  we  stopped  at  tho,  foot  of  a 
neoond,  when  our  Indians  cried  out  "  el  Palacio,"  <'  the 
palace,"  and  through  openings  in  the  trees  wc  saw  the 
front  of  a  large  building  richly  ornamented  with  stuc- 
coed figures  on  the  pilasters,  curious  and  elegant; 
Irees  growing  close  against  it,  and  their  branches  enter- 
ing the  doors ;  in  style  and  effect  unique,  extraordinary, 
and  mournfully  beautiful.  We  tied  our  mules  to  the 
trees,  ascended  a  flight  of  stone  steps  forced  apart  and 
thrown  down  by  trees,  and  entered  the  palace,  ranged 
for  a  few  moments  along  the  corridor  and  into  the 
oourtyard,  and  after  the  first  gaze  of  eager  curiosity 
Was  over,  went  back  to  the  entrance,  and,  standing  in 
^  doorway,  fired  ^  fetirde-joie  of  four  rounds  each,  be- 
i]Bg  the  last  charge  of  our  firearms.  But  for  this  way 
nC  giving  vent  to  our  satisfaction  we  should  have  made 
Ijba  roof  of  the  old  palace  ring  with  a  hurrah.  It  was 
tll^ftdHli  too,  for  effect  upon  the  Indians,  who  had 


S98  IVCIDBNTS    OF    TRATIL. 

probably  never  heard  such  a  cannonade  befinre,  and  ■!• 
most,  like  their  ancestors  in  the  time  of  Corteii  jegaid- 
ed  our  weapons  as  instruments  which  spit  ligfatniiig,  and 
who,  we  knew,  would  make  such  a  report  in  the  village 
as  would  keep  any  of  thfeir  respectable  friends  from  pay- 
ing us  a  visit  at  night. 

We  had  reached  the  end  of  our  long  and  tCMlsome 
journey,  and  the  first  glance  indemnified  us  for  our  toil 
For  the  first  time  we  werb  in  a  building  erected  by  the 
aboriginal  inhabitants,  standing  before  the  Europeans 
knew  of  the  existence  of  this  continent,  and  we  prepaied 
to  take  up  our  abode  under  its  roof.  We  selected  the 
front  corridor  as  our  dwelling,  turned  turkey  and  fowls 
loose  in  the  courtyard,  which  was  so  overgrown  widi 
trees  that  we  could  barely  see  across  it ;  and  as  there 
was  no  pasture  for  the  mules  except  the  leaves  of  the 
trees,  and  we  could  not  turn  them  loose  into  the  woodsy 
we  brought  them  up  the  steps  through  the  palace,  and 
turned  them  into  the  courtyard  also.  At  one  end  of  the 
corridor  Jiuui  built  a  kitchen,  which  operation  consisted 
in  laying  three  stones  anglewise,  so  as  to  have  room  for 
a  fire  between  them.  Our  luggage  was  stowed  away 
or  hung  on  poles  reaching  across  the  corridor.  Paw- 
ling mounted  a  stone  about  four  feet  long  on  stone  legs 
for  a  table,  and  with  the  Indians  cut  a  number  of  poles, 
which  they  fastened  together  with  bark  strings,  and  laid 
them  on  stones  at  the  head  and  foot  for  beds.  We  cut 
down  the  branches  that  entered  the  palace,  and  some  of 
the  trees  on  the  terrace,  and  from  the  floor  of  the  pal- 
ace overlooked  the  top  of  an  inunense  forest  stretching 
off  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  Indians  had  superstitious  fears  about  remaining 
at  night  among  the  ruins,  and  left  us  alone,  the  sole 
tenants  of  the  palace  of  unknown  kings.     Little  did 


AM  Vf^fQt^TVUXTK     ADYBNTURER. 

Aey  w)io  ^built  it  think  that  in  a  few  years  their  royal 
fipe  would  periah  and  their  race  be  extinqt,  their  city  a 
mini  aiid.Mr.  Catherwood,  Pawling,  and  I  and  Jnan 
its  sole  tenants.  Other  strangers  had  been  there,  won- 
deiing  like  ourselves.  Their  names  were  written  on  the 
wallsy  with  comments  and  figures ;  and  eren  here  were 
marks  of  those  low,  grovelling  spirits  which  delight  is 
lyofaning  holy  places.  Among  the  names,  but  not  of  the 
lalter  dass,  were  those  of  acquaintances :  Captain  Cad* 
dy  and  Mr.  Walker ;  and  one  was  that  of  a  countryman^ 
Noah  O.  Flatt,  New- York.  He  had  gone  out  to 
Tobasco  as  supercargo  of  a  vessel,  ascepded  one  of  the 
rivers  for  logwood,  and  while  his  vessel  was  loading- 
visited  the  ruins.  His  account  of  them  had  given  me  a 
strong  desire  to  visit  them  long  before  the  opportunity 
of  doing  so  presented  itself. 

High  up  on  one  side  of  the  corridor  was  the  name 
of  WiUiam  Beanham,  and  under  it  was  a  stanza  written 
in  lead-pencil.  By  means  of  a  tree  with  notches  cut  in  it,. 
I  climbed  up  and  read  the  lines.  The  rhyme  was  faulty 
and  the  spelling  bad,  but  they  breathed  a  deep  sense  of 
the  moral  sublimity  pervading  these  unknown  ruins- 
The  author  seemed,  too,  an  acquaintance.  I  had  heard 
his  story  in  the  village.  He  was  a  young  Irishman,  sent 
by  a  merchant  of  Tobasco  into  the  interior  for  purposes  of 
small  traffic ;  had  passed  some  time  at  Palenque  and  in 
the  neighbourhood ;  and,  with  his  thou^ts  and  feeling» 
turned  strongly  toward  the  Indians,  after  dwelling  upon 
the  subject  for  some  time,  resolved  to  penetrate  into  the 
eountry  of  the  Caribs.  His  friends  endeavoured  to  dis-> 
■uade  him,  and  the  prefect  told  him,  ^^  Yon  have  red 
hair,  a  florid  complexion,  and  white  skin,  and  they  will 
either  make  a  god  of  you  and  keep  you  among  them, 
«  else  kill  and  eat  you ;"  but  he  set  off  alone  and  on 


t94   .  HCZDSNTS    OP    TEATBL. 

loot,  GToased  the  River  Chacamal,  and  after  an  abaeaee 
of  nearly  a  year  returned  safe,  but  naked  and  emaeia- 
ted|  with  his  hair  and  nails  long,  having  been  eight  dajv 
with  a  single  Carib  on  the  banks  of«a  wild  rivei^aeafdi- 
ing  for  a  crossing-place,  and  living  upon  roots  and  herbs. 
He  built  a  hut  on  the  borders  of  the  Chacamal  River, 
and  lived  there  with  a  Carib  servant,  preparing  for  an- 
efher  and  more  protracted  journey  among  them,  nntil 
at  length  some  boatmen  who  came  to  trade  with  him 
found  hkn  lying  in  his  hammock  dead,  with  his  aeidt 
qplit  open.    He  had  escaped  the  dangers  of  a  journey 
which  no  man  in  that  country  dared  encounter,  to  die  bj 
the  hands  of  an  a&aassin  in  a  moment  of  fancied 
ty.     His  arm  was  hai^ging  outside,  and  a  book  lying 
the  ground;   probably  he  was  struck  while  reading. 
The  murderers,  one  of  whom  was  his  servant, 
caught,  and  were  then  in  prison  in  Tobasco.    Unfortn^ 
nately,  the  people  of  Palenque  had  taken  but  little  in- 
terest in  anything  except  the  extraordinnrv  fact  of  hi^  5^  " 
visit  among  the  Caribs  and  his  return  safe.      All  his^s  ^  J' 
papers  and  collection  of  curiosities  were  scattered  an 

destroyed,  and  with  him  died  all  the  fruits  of  his  la 

hours  ;  but,  were  he  still  living,  he  would  be  the  man,iK 

of  all  others,  to  accomplish  the  discovery  of  that  mvste 

rious  city  which  had  so  much  affected  our  imaginations. 
As  the  ruins  of  Palenque  are  the  first  which  awakened 
attention  to  the  existence  of  ancient  and  unknown  cities 
in  America,  and  as,  on  that  account,  they  are  perhaps 
more  interesting  to  the  public,  it  may  not  be  amiss  to 
state  the  circumstances  of  their  first  discovery. 

The  account  is,  that  in  the  year  1750,  a  party  of 
Spaniards  travelling  in  the  interior  of  Mexico  pene- 
trated to  the  lands  north  of  the  district  of  Carmen,  i 
the  province  of  Chiapas,  when  all  at  once  they  fomn 


DIftGOVJIBT    OF    PALBITQUa.  IKK 


#oMtwde  anoieiit  stcme  buiUui^iy 
oC  a  cityi  still  emhradng  from  eighteen  to 
miles  in  extent,  known  to  the  Tndiens  by 
tfaaauniB  atCBms  de  Piedras.  Ftom  my  knowledge 
of -the  country  I  am  at  a  loss  to  conjecture  why  a  party 
<xf  Spaniards  were  travelling  in  that  forest,  or  how  they 
eonld  have  done  so.  I  am  inclined  to  believe  rather 
that  the  existence  of  the  ruins  was  discovered  by  the 
Indians,  who  had  clearings  in  different  parts  of  the 
focest  for  their  corn-fields,  or  perhaps  was  known  to 
.Aem  from  time  immemorial,  and  on  their  report  the 
inhabitants  were  induced  to  visit  them. 

The  existence  of  such  a  city  was  entirely  miknown ; 
-there  is  no  menticm  of  it  in  any  book,  and  no  tradition 
that  it  had  ever  been.  To  this  day  it  is  not  known  by 
what  name  it  was  called,  and  the  only  appellation  given 
to  it  is  that  of  Palenque,  after  the  village  near  which 
the  ruins  stand. 

The  news  of  the  discovery  passed  from  mouth  to 
^nouthy  was  repeated  in  some  cities  of  the  province,  and 
Teached  the  seat  of  government ;  but  little  attention  was 
paid  to  it,  and  the  members  of  the  government,  through 
ignorance,  apathy,  or  the  actual  impossibility  of  occu- 
pying themselves  with  anything  except  public  affairs, 
took  no  measures  to  explore  the  ruins,  and  it  was  not 
till  1786,  thirty  years  subsequent  to  the  discovery,  that 
the  King  of  Spain  ordered  an  exploration  ;  on  the  third 
cyf  May,  1787,  Captain  Antonio  del  Rio  arrived  at  the 
^village,  under  a  commission  from  the  government  of 
CSnatimala,  and  on  the  fifth  he  proceeded  to  the  site  of 
tht  ruined  city.  In  his  official  report  he  says,  on  ma- 
Idng  his  first  essay,  owing  to  the  thickness  of  the  woods, 
and  a  fog  so  deiise  that  it  was  impossible  for  the  men 
to  distinguish  each  other  at  five  paces'  distance,  the 


fjma^. 


M§  XKOIDSHTB'OF    TEATBtHe- 

principal  bailding  was  completely  ooooealeA  firom 

view.  «*i 

He  returned  to  the  village,  and  after  eoi 
measures  with  the  deputy  of  the  district,  an  order 
issued  to  the  inhabitants  of  Tumbala,  reqniriiig' 
hundred  Indians  with  axes  and  billhooks.  On^  tfa 
17th  seventy-nine  arrived,  furnished  with  twenty-ei^ 
axes,  after  which  twenty  more  were  obtained  in  the  ^A 
lage ;  and  with  these  he  again  moved  forward,  and  iaa* 
mediately  commenced  felling  trees,  which  was  followal 
by  a  general  conflagration.  f*^  - 

The  report  of  Captain  Del  Rio,  with  the  commenftttjl 
of  Doctor  Paul  Felix  Cabrera  of  New  Guatimala,  de- 
ducing an  Egjrptian  origin  for  the  people,  through  et 
ther  the  supincness  or  the  jealousy  of  the  Spanish  gov- 
ernment was  locked  up  in  the  archives  of  Guatimah 
until  the  time  of  the  Revolution,  when,  by  the  operatim 
of  liberal  principles,  the  original  manuscripts  came  into 
the  hands  of  an  English  gentleman  long  resident  in  that 
country,  and  an  English  translation  was  publi^ed  at 
London  in  1822.  This  was  the  first  notice  in  Europe 
of  the  discovery  of  these  ruins ;  and,  instead  of  electri* 
fying  the  public  mind,  either  from  want  of  interest  in 
the  subject,  distrust,  or  some  other  cause,  so  little  notice 
was  taken  of  it,  that  in  1831  the  Literary  Gazette,  s 
paper  of  great  circulation  in  London,  announced  it  mm 
a  new  discovery  nmde  by  Colonel  Galindo,  whose  un- 
fortunate fate  has  been  before  referred  to.  If  a  like 
discovery  had  been  made  in  Italy,  Greece,  Egypt,  at 
Asia,  within  the  reach  of  European  travel,  it  would 
have  created  an  interest  not  inferior  to  the  discovery  oi 
Herculaneiun,  or  Pompeii,  or  the  ruins  of  Peestum. 

While  the  report  and  drawings  of  Del  Rio  slept 
u  the  archives  of  Guatimala,.  Charles  the  Fourtk  tf 


VIEW    BXPLOBATZOHiL 

»am  ordered  another  expeditioni  at  the  head  of  which 
placed  Captain  Dupaix,  with  a  secretary  and 
drsi^nghtsDian,  and  a  detachment  of  dragoons.  His  ex- 
pecUtiona  were  made  in  1805,  1806,  and  1807,  the  laat 
of   nrhich  was  to  Palenqne. 

Ihe  manuscripts  of  Dupaix,  and  the  designs  of  his 
dnvgfatsman  Castenada,  were  about  to  be  sent  to  Mad- 
rid,  which  was  then  occupied  by  the  French  armyi 
'W'hen  the  revolution  broke  out  in  Mexico ;  they  then 
becsame  an  object  of  secondary  importance,  and  re- 
mained during  the  wars  of  independence  under  the  con« 
trol  of  Castenada,  who  deposited  them  in  the  Cabinet 
of  Natural  History  in  Mexico.     In  1828  M.  Baradere 
disentombed  them  from  the  cartons  of  the  museum, 
'^here,  but  for  this  accident,  they  might  still  have  re- 
nudned,  and  the  knowledge  of  the  existence  of  this 
city  again   been  lost.     The   Mexican    Congress   had 
poised  a  law  forbidding  any  stranger  not  formally  au- 
thorized to  make  researches  or  to  remove  objects  of  art 
from  the  country ;  but,  in  spite  of  this  interdict,  M. 
Baradere  obtained  authority  to  make  researches  in  the 

• 

^terior  of  the  republic,  with  tlie  agreement  that  after 

Ending  to  Mexico  all  that  he  collected,  half  should 

^^  delivered  to  him,  with  permission  to  transport  them 

^o  Europe.     Afterward  he  obtained  by  exchange  the 

^igioal  designs  of  Castenada,  and  an  authentic  copy 

^f  the  itinerary  and  descriptions   of  Captain  Dupaix 

^^  promised  in  three  months.     From  divers  cireum- 

*^Mp|B%  that  copy  did  not  reach  M.  Baradere  till  long 

^'^'his  xeturn  to  France,  and  the  work  of  Dupaix  was 

^  pobliahed  nntil  1834,  '5,  twenty-eight  years  after 

'^  expedition,  when  it  was  brought  out  in  Paris,  in 

^^  Tcdmnes  folio,  at  the  price  of  eight  hundred  francs, 

*^  jg^^im^fnd  ^oonun^taries  by  M.  Alexandre  Lenoiri 

Voi.  Il._p  p 


SW  IHCIDBNTI    or  TBAVSIi. 

M*  Warden,  M.  Charles  Fexcyf  M*  Baradem^  and  IL 
De  St.  Priest. 

Lord  Kingsborough's  ponderous  tdmes,  so  fti  w  la* 
garde  Paienque,  are  a  mere  reprint  of  Dupaizi  and  the 
oost  of  his  work  is  four  hundred  dollars  per  copy.    Col- 
onel Galindo's  communications  to  the  Geographical^fL«l 
Society  of  Paris  are  published  in  the  work  of  Dapaiz, 
and  since  him  Mr.  Waldeck,  with  funds  provided  b; 
an  association  in  Mexico,  had  passed  two  yeara 
the  ruins.     His  drawings,  as  he  states  in  a  work  on 
other  place,  were  taken  away  by  the  Mexican  gov 
ment ;  but  he  had  retained  copies,  and  before  we  se^ 
out  his  work  on  Palenque  was  announced  in  Paris.     It^r  Til^ 
however,  has  never  appeared,  and  in  the  mean  tim^ 
Dupaix's  is  the  text-book. 

I  have  two  objections  to  make  to  this  work,  not  affi 
ing  Captain  Dupaix,  who,  as  his  expedition  took 
thirty-four  years  since,  is  not  likely  to  be  affected,  if 
is  even  living,  but  his  Paris  editors.     The  first  is  th_ 
very  depreciating  tone  in  which  mention  is  made  of  th 
work  of  his  predecessor  Del  Bio,  and,  secondly, 
paragraph  in  the  introduction  : 

<<  It  must  be  considered  that  a  government  only 
execute  such  undertakings.     A  traveller  relying  upon 
own  resources  cannot  hope,  whatever  may  be  his  intre 
pidity,  to  penetrate,  and,  above  all,  to  live  in  those 
gerous  solitudes  ;  and,  supposing  that  he  succeeds,  it  i 
beyond  the  power  of  the  most  learned  and  skilful 
to  explore  alone  the  ruins  of  a  vast  city,  of  which 
must  not  only  measure  and  draw  the  edifices  still  eX' 
isting,  but  also  determine  the  circumference  and 
ine  the  remains,  dig  the  soil  and  explore  the  subteiia-    "^ 
neous  constructions.     M.  Baradere  arrived  withiii.  fift; 
Jaagaes  of  Palenque,  burning  with  the  desire  of 


tHtoKft^^MMltt^jooMlSteiii^^s-iMA  do  witit  doQiBilioi 

wkhotft  manlkne  m  imriligwnil» 

still  half  niTBge,  against  serpeuta  and 

animals,  whieh,  aocorduig  to  Dopaiz,  in- 

tbflse  naos,  and  abo  against  the  vegetatiye  force  of  a 

fiartila  and  powerful,  which  in  a  few  years  re-cov- 

att  tte  monuments  and  obstructs  all  the  avenues?'' 

'Tile  aflhet  of  this  is  td  crush  all  individual  enterprise! 

I,  moreover,  it  is  untrue.     All  the  accounts,  founded 

ihis,  represent  a  visit  to  these  ruins  as  attended 

*^tfith  immense  difficulty  and  danger,  to  such  an  extent 

ClttA  we  feared  to  encoimter  them ;  but  there  is  no  dif- 

fitahy  whatever  in  going  from  Europe  or  the  United 

to  Palenque.    Our  greatest  hardships,  even  in 

long  journey  through  the  interior,  were  from  the 

^anvofaitionary  state  of  the  countries  and  want  of  time ; 

to  a  residence  there,  with  time  to  construct  a 

or  to  fitup  an  apartment  in  the  palace,  and  to  pro- 

slores  from  the  seaboard,  **  those  dangerous  soli- 

i"  migfat  be  anjrthing  rather  than  unpleasant. 

'Aad  to  riiow  what  individuals  can  accomplish,  I  state 

Mr.  Catherwood's  drawings  include  all  the  objects 

^^|Hikiilted  in  the  work  of  Dupaix,  and  others  besides 

^^^tehdo  iiot  appear  in  that  work  at  all,  and  have  never 

been  presented  to  the  public ;  among  idiich  are 

frbhtispiece  of  this  volume  and  the  large  tablets  of 

^^itt[<iglypldos,  the  most  curious  and  interesting  pieces  of 

^f^^Sptatt  at  Palenque.    I  add,  with  the  full  knowledge 

^^^at  I  virill  be  contradicted  by  friture  travellers  if  I  am 

^raig,  that  the  whole  of  Mr.  C.'s  are  more  correct  in 

pt^ofKirtiQns,  Outline,  and  filling  up  than  his,  and  furnish 

'Mi^  true  material  for  speculation  and  study.     I  would 

*M  have  said  thus  much  but  from  a  wirii  to  give  eonfi- 

^"^  to  die  reader  who  may  be  disposed  to  investigatiS 


300  " As«>°>°"°"'" 

ij  Oie  »<!«  »'        ,      told  the  d""'  '^^  ,to,  !.«=  «« 

„«e  mnnii'b  ,       d.     AB  v..  ^„ 

thai  conntryi  "■  ,      tonnly  oi-t-uv  „    i,r^**^ 

^-  *  '°7tz  ot » -"»'  r  dT '..  "^«  <** 
-:  "\ri;  left  - "-  *rj;:»  -oae..^ i^. 

i,  being  »»»"'?"'  „c  ».  do.-.  »  "iX-'^  " 
The  wbledo* "»  „„  the  le"         .,.«»> 


mx9mAOWL9inA%Y  Fiftar&isB.  SOI 

wttnaonfB  ttonn.  From  the  elevation  of  the  temee, 
4hfi  floor  of  the  palaoe  eonunanded  a  view  of  the  top  of 
Ifea  finreat^aiid  we  eould  see  the  trees  bent  down  by  the 
isloe  of  the  wind ;  very  soon  a  fierce  blast  swept  throng 
Ab  open  doorsy  which  waa  followed  instantaneously 
Iqp  heavy  rain.  The  table  was  cleared  by  the  wind, 
«id^  before  we  could  make  oar  escape,  was  drenched 
hf  the  rain.  We  snatched  away  our  plates,  and  finish- 
ed our  meal  as  we  could. 

f:  The  rain  oontinued,  with  heavy  thunder  and  light* 
MBg,  all  the  afternoon.  In  the  absolute  necessity  oi 
ttthing  op  our  abode  among  the  ruins,  we  had  hardly 
fdKNight  of  onr  exposure  to  the  elements  until  it  was 
ioned  upon  us.  At  night  we  could  not  li^t  a  candle, 
bat  the  darkness  of  the  palace  was  lighted  up  by  fire- 
fies  of  extraordinary  sixe  and  brilliancy,  shooting 
duou^  the  corridors  and  stationary  on  the  walls, 
farming  a  beautiful  and  striking  spectacle.  They  were 
ct  the  description  with  those  we  saw  at  Nopa,  known 
ty  the  name  of  shining  beetles,  and  are  mentioned  by 
the  early  Spaniards,  among  the  wonders  of  a  world 
where  aU  was  new,  ^'  as  showing  the  way  to  those  who 
travel  at  night."  The  historian  describes  them  as 
^.aomewfaat  smaller  than  Sparrows,  having  two  stars 
doae  by  their  Eyes,  and  two  more  under  their  Wings, 
which  gave  so  great  a  Light  that  by  it  they  could  spin, 
veeve,  write,  and  paint ;  and  the  Spaniards  went  by 
ai|^  to  hunt  the  Utios  or  little  Rabbits  of  that  country ; 
epl  apfiahing,  carrying  these  Animals  tied  to  their  great 
Toea  or  Thumbs :  and  they  called  them  Locuyoa,  be- 
ing also  of  nse  to  save  them  from  the  Gnats,  which 
flve  there  very  troublesome.  They  took  them  in  the 
Might  with  Firebrands,  because  they  made  to  the  Light, 
oame  when  called  by  their  Name ;  and  they  are  so 

*   26 


302 


DENTS    or     TRAT  Jtl.' 


unwieldy  that  when  they  fall  they  cannot  rise  Rgsui; 
and  the  Men  stroGiking  their  Faces  and  Hands  vrith  i 
sort  of  Mmsiure  that  is  in  those  Stan,  seemed  to  be 
a&re  as  long  as  it  lasted." 

It  always  gave  us  high  pleasure  to  realize  the  i 
manlic   and  seemingly  half-fabulous   acctnmts  of  th»  ,«!*, 
chroniclers  of  the  conquest.     Very  ofien  we  foimd  thnS  -^r 
quaint  descriptions  bo  vivid  and   failhfnl  as  t<i 
the   spirit   that    breathed    through   their   pag'' 
caught  several  of  these  beetles,  not,  however,  t.; 
ing  them  by  their  names,  but  with  a  hat,  as  H(.ljijo.«.^-ji. 
boys  nsed  to  catch  fireflies,  or,  less  poetically,  lij^li  ^  ii 
niog-bugs,   at   home.     They   are    more   than   half  '^  -~>n 
inch   long,   and   have  a   sharp  movable  horn   on   tl     •  tt 
head  ;  when  laid  on  the  back  they  cannot  turn  over  e__— x- 
cept  by  pressing  this  horn  against  a  merobrone  wpc^^n 
the  front.     Behind  the  eyes  are  l^vo  round  Iraitsparei 
substances  full  of  luminous  matter,  ahoiil  as  large  i 
the  head  of  a  pin,  and  underneath  is  a  larger  mciii'<r  i: 
containing  the  same  luminoos  substance.     Poin-  "t  r  ■  ■■ 
together  threw  a  brilliant  light  for  several  yjiri!^    -.    : 
and  by  the  light  of  a  single  one  we  rciii 
finely-printed  pages  of  an  American  u^^ 
one  of  a  packet,  full  of  debates  in  Congr.  - 
as  yet  barely  glanced  over,  and  it  seemed  strsngrr  iliiu  -^"1 
any  incident  of  my  journey  to  be  reading  by  the  lii}!- 
of  beetles,  in  the  ruined  palace  of  Palenqtic,  the 
inga  and  doings  of  great  men  at  home.    In  themid<i 
Mr.  Catherwood,  in  emptying  ihe  capacious  pock.-; 
ahpoting-jacket,  handed  me  a  Broadway  nrunibua  tickets 

■'  Good  la  Ibe  bum  fat  a  ndi. 


These  things  brought  up  vivid  recoIlccUor 
among  the  fanuhar  images  present  wore  ' 


ri&^T    WI«HT    AT    THK    KUINS. 

which  our  friends  were  about  that  time  turning. 
Omn  were  set  up  in  the  back  corridor,  fronting  the  court- 
yvdb  Thia^xnrridor  consisted  of  open  doors  and  pilasters 
•Itenmtely.  The  wind  and  rain  were  sweeping  through, 
,  unfortunately,  our  beds  were  not  out  of  reach  of 
spray.  They  had  been  set  up  with  some  labour  on 
piles  of  stones  each,  and  we  could  not  then  change 
tteir  position.  We  had  no  spare  articles  to  put  up  as 
ns ;  but,  happily,  two  umbrellas,  tied  up  with  meas- 
rods  and  wrapped  in  a  pieee  of  matting,  had  sur- 
the  wreck  of  the  mountain-roads.  These  Mr.  C. 
I  secored  at  the  head  of  our  beds.  Pawling  swung 
ioek  across  the  corridor  so  high  that  the  sweep 
^rfthujrain  only  touched  the  foot ;  and  so  passed  our  first 
at  Palenqne.  In  the  morning,  umbrellas,  bed- 
wearing  apparel,  and  hammocks  were  wet 
flWiiiHgh^  and  theroi.  was  not  a  dry  place  to  stand  on. 
S%fady  we  considered  ourselves  booked  for  a  rheuma- 
tlplL  We  had  looked  to  our  residence  at  Palenque  as 
^l^^ttMl  of  troubles,  and  for  comfort  and  pleasure,  but 
4fte^«ie  (Donld  do  was  to  change  the  location  of  our  beds 
^|Bpf rw  whirh  promised  a  better  shelter  for  the  next 


*'^A-good  breakfiBSt  would  have  done  much  to  restore 
^ir  Equanimity ;  but,  unhappily,  we  found  that  the  tor- 
^ha  which  we  had  brought  out  the  day  before,  proba- 
^f  made  of  half-mouldy  com,  by  the  excessive  damp- 
were  matted  together,  sour,  and  spoiled.  We 
through  our  beans,  eggs,  and  chocolate  without 
"^  aofaatitnte  for  bread,  and,  as  often  before  in  time  of 
'^^PiJiiUe,  composed  ourselves  with  a  cigar.  Blessed  be 
^  mail  who  invented  smoking,  the  soother  and  com- 
^^^^ci  d  a  troubled  spirit,  allayer  of  angry  passions,  a 
^^^ort  nnder  tba  loss  of  hreakfisMt,  and  to  the  roamer 


T-^?" 


L 


TWO  IDE  ITT  a     or    TViTBL. 

did  not  cOTHmence  till  three  or  fonr  o'clock,  ud  6i-^^^ 
weather  was  clear  always  in  th«  morning,  it  alone  wod1*>    ___ 
not  have  been  sufBcient  to  prevent  our  ailcmpting  H     — 
but  there  were  other  difficulties,  which  embarrasMd  i^^^^g 
from  the  beginning,  artd  continued  during  our  whole  fg^^^b- 
idence  tunong  the  niiiis.    There  was  not  an  axe  or  qiai^^Ho 
in  the  place,  and,  as  usual,  the  only  inHtrument  was  il'-     riv 
machete,  which  here  was  like  a  short  and  wide-blod«^!^rf 
eword ;  and  the  difficulty  of  procuring  lndimn%  to  wo^^Bk 
■WB3  grester  than  at  any  olher  pbce  we  had  vimtfid.  Ii 

was  the  season  of  planting  com,  and  ihc  Indians,  undl^Hn 
the  immediate  pressure  of  famine,  were  all  bi»y  w±i-— ith 
their  milpas.  The  price  of  an  Indian's  labour  w^i^m 
eighteen  cents  per  day;  but  the  alcalde,  who  had  t^MiAi'^ 
direction  of  this  brandi  of  the  bunincss.  would  not  l*" 

me  advance  to  more  than  tivcniy-five  cents,  and  ^^r-llrc 
most  he  would  engage  to  send  me  was  from  fotir  to  i^*  "^ 
a  day.  They  would  not  sleep  at  the  ruins,  came  1«-  ^^*< 
uid  went  away  early ;  sometinies  only  two  or  three  ^^^P" 
peared,  and  the  same  men  rarely  came  twice,  bo  llr  *" 
during  our  May  we  bad  all  the  Indians  of  the  Tillage  "* 

TOtation.     This  increased  very  much  our  labour,  aa  " 

made  it  neoensary  to  stand  over  them  eonstiintly  to  c^:^^' 
reot  their  work;  and  just  as  one  set  began  to  iinderstair"^ 
jwociaely  what  we  wanted,  we  were  obhged  to  teach  l)"^^' 
same  to  others ;  and  I  may  remark  that  their  lahou-^^"' 
though  nominally  cheap,  was  dear  in  leferenoe  to  ll*;^^^ 
work  done. 

At    that  time    I   expected    to  return  to   Paleiiqiw^^' 
whether  I  shall  do  so  now  or  not  ts  nnccrtain :  bttt  I  « 
anxious  that  it  should  be  understood  thai  the  aecountf 
which  have  been  published  of  the  immrnse  labour  an- 
expense  of  exploring  these  niinn,  which,  as  I  before  rrt 
marked,  made  it  akaoat  seem  preaumpluoaa  fciuMfr^" 


-    ^^ 


SUFFBRIHG     rnoK     HOICBBTotfs. 


an* 


undertake  it  with  my  own  lesourpes,  are  exaggerated 
and  luiTrue.    Being  on  the  ground  at  Uie  commencement 
of  the  dry  season,  with  eight  or  ten  yoimg  "  pioneers," 
ha^'ing  a  spirit  of  enterprise  equal  to  their  bone  and 
muacle,  in  less  than  six  months  the  whole  of  these  ruins 
eMld  be  laid  bare.      Any  man  who  has  ever  "cleared" 
^^B^bndred  acres  of  land  is  competent  to  undertake  it, 
^^^^■the  time   and  money  spent  by  one  of  our  young 
^^^VId  a  *'  winter  in  Paris"  would  detennine  beyond  all 
^^^^nventuie  whether  the  city  ever  did  cover  the  im- 
^^^B|e  extent  which  some  have  supposed. 
^^^Hm  to  reluru  :  Under  the  escort  of  our  guide  we  had 
fftliguing  but  moat  interesting  day.     What  we  saw 
dops  not  need  any  exaggeration.     It  awakened  admira- 
tion end  astonishment.     In  the  afternoon  came  on  the 
regular  storm.     We  had  distributed  our  beds,  however, 
•leog  the  corridorif,  under  cover  of  the  outei  wall,  autl 
b  better  protected,  bni  suffered  terribly  from  mosche- 
kthc  noise  and  sting?  of  which  drove  away  sleep.    In 
piddle  of  the  night  I  took  up  my  mat  to  escape 
ptheae  murderers  of  rest.     The  ruin  had  ceased,  and 
noon,  breaking  through  the  heavy  clouds,  with  a 
r  fcce  lighted  up  the  ruined  corridor.     I  climbed 
k  mound  of  Btonea  at  one  end,  where  the  wall  had 
:,  and,  stumbling  along  outside  the  palace,  entered 
kral  building  near  the  foot  of  the  tower,  groped  in 
irk  along  a  low  damp  passage,  and  spread  my 
nfore  a  low  doorway  at  the  extreme  end.     Bats 
kflying  and  whizzing  through  the  passage,  noisy  and 
t;  bat  the  ngly  creatures  drove  away  mosohe* 
The  dampness  of  the  passage  was  cooling  and 
mhing;  and,  with  some  ttviugmg  apprehensions  of 
thn  snski^s  and  rrptiles,  lizards  and  scorpions,  which  in- 
fest the  rnina,  I  fell  aakep.        ^\     "~ww~  •  - 


^^ 


J 


SOB  *     iirciDBirTB  of  tkatvl 


CHAPTER  XVm. 


Pwcaliopi  i|UHt  lb*  Attecka  of  VaKbMoaa— Mod*  of  Lift  at  PaIn|Bi^ 
P>wn^iiiu  01  tbc  Paiatc—  Plan.—  Hiengljplucs.—  Flgnras.—  DoonnjL— 
Oc«ndor»— CocrtTwdi.— A  woodea  Relic— Stone  Slept.- Towsn.— Tabte 
— Siocco  Onk&aec:sL  &C..&C.— TIwSotbI  ChapcL — EsplontioaB.— An^aa* 
*Kt.— Aa  Aim.— I— ctB>— Mto  of  loaact  SdufB.— lUtiin.  to  Uia  Yittvi 
of  PalMKuc. 

At  dayli^t  I  rptorned.  and  found  Mr.  C.  and  Paw- 
ling fitting  on  the  stones,  half  dressed,  in  ruefol  con- 
rlare.  Ther  bad  passed  the  night  worse  than  I,  and 
our  condition  and  prospects  were  dismal.  Bains,  hard 
work,  bad  fare,  seemed  nothing ;  but  we  could  no  man 
exi9t  without  sleep  than  the  "  foolish  fellow"  of  .^Bsopf 
who.  at  the  moment  when  he  had  learned  to  live  witlh 
out  eating,  died.  In  all  his  traTels  through  the  country 
Pawling  had  never  encountered  such  hard  work  as  since 
he  met  us. 

The  next  night  the  moschetoes  were  beyond  sU  en- 
durance ;  the  slightest  part  of  the  body,  the  tip  end  of  a 
finger,  exposed,  was  bitten.  With  the  heads  covered 
the  heat  was  suffocating,  and  in  the  morning  our  faces 
were  all  in  blotches.  Without  some  remedy  we  were 
undone.  It  is  on  occasions  like  this  that  the  creative 
powpr  of  genius  displays  itself.  Our  beds,  it  will  be 
remembered,  were  made  of  sticks  lying  side  by  side, 
and  set  on  four  piles  of  stones  for  legs.  Over  these  we 
laid  our  pellons  and  armas  de  aguas,  or  leathern  ar- 
mour against  rain,  and  over  these  our  straw  znattugi 
This  prevented  our  enemies  invading  us  from  between 
the  sticks.  Our  sheets  were  already  sewed  up  into 
cks.     We  ripped  one  side,  cut  sticks,  and  bent  them 


n'T 


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f      ' 


fM 


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MODI     OV    lilVB    AT    PALIIT^IUX. 


f^ 


m  ttvetflKMVk  about  two  feet  high  over  the  finma  of  the 
bfiii.    Over  then  Ae  sheets  were  stretched,  and|  sew- 
ed Aowa  ell  around,  with  a  small  space  open  at  the 
heed,  hfld  much  the  appearance  of  biers.    At  night, 
after  a  hard  day's  work,  we  crawled  in.     Hosts  were 
waiting  for  us  inside.     We  secured  the  open  places, 
when  each,  with  the  stump  of  a  lighted  candle,  hunted 
and  slew,  and  with  a  lordly  feeling  of  defiance  we  lay 
down  to  sleep.     We  had  but  one  pair  of  sheets  apiece, 
end  this  was  a  new  way  of  sleeping  under  them ;  but, 
besides  the  victory  it  afforded  us  over  the  moschetoes, 
it  had  another  advantage ;  the  heat  was  so  great  that 
we  could  not  sleep  with  our  clothes  on ;  it  was  impos- 
tfble  to  place  the  beds  entirely  out  of  the  reach  of  the 
flpray,  and  the  covering,  held  up  a  foot  or  two  above  us 
and  kept  damp,  cooled  the  heated  atmosphere  within. 

In  this  way  we  lived :  the  Indians  came  out  in  the 
morning  with  provisions,  and  as  the  tortillas  were  made 
in  the  alcalde's  own  kitchen,  not  to  disturb  his  house- 
hold  arrangements,  they  seldom  arrived  till  after  break- 
fast 

In  the  mean  time  work  went  on.     As  at  Copan,  it 

was  my  business  to  prepare  the  different  objects  for  Mr. 

Oatherwood  to  draw.     Many  of  the  stones  had  to  be 

scrubbed  and  cleaned;  and  as  it  was  our  object  to  have 

Ae  utmost  possible  accuracy  in  the  drawings,  in  many 

places  scaffolds  were  to  be  erected  on  which  to  set  up 

Ae  camera  lucida.     Pawling  relieved  me  from  a  great 

Pa^  of  this  labour.     That  the  reader  may  know  the 

character  of  the  objects  we  had  to  interest  us,  I  proceed 

^  give  a  description  of  the  building  in  which  we  lived, 

^lled  the  palace. 

A  front  view  of  this  building  is  given  in  the  engra- 
^^g'     It  does  not,  however,  purport  to  be  given  with 


•-M 


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Ae  sM^Ncvracy  as  tke  <Aet  &mwj0g^  Ihn^'"'^  ^ 
ii^  in  a  more  raued  oooditimi.    Il  ^jMrifl  oi'aii  iM|| 
fteia) elevation  of  an  obking  fbraiy  fartf  feelJii|^  4nWk\ 
Imwlred  and  ten  feet  in  front  and  leari  and  two  hmk  j 
^  d^ed  and  sixty  feet  on  eadi  side.    This  elevadon 
fameily  faced  widt^atooai  which  has  beeathrowa 
bj  the  gfowth  of  trees,  and  ils  foam  m  handly  distjn^j 
goishable.      ^ 

The  building  stands  with  its  £we  to  the  east, 
measures  two  hmidrad  and  twentj^eig^  iaat  frost 
one  hnnAed  fftd  eighty  feet  dbepi.    lis  hei|^t  is 
more  tiian  twenty-fira  feat,  and  all  aroond  it  had  a 
projecting  cornice  of  stone.    The  freoi  eoiHaiaed 
teen  doorwaysi  about  nine  fret  wide  eaoh,  and  liMif 
t^ifcuit^  piers  are  between  six  and  seTon  faet 
On  the  left  (ki  approaching  Ae  pahee)  eigjht  of  tl^ 
have  frilen  down,  aa  has  also  the  corner  on  thfr 
and  the  terrace  underneath  is  cumbered  widi  the  ropA^ 
But  six  piers  remain  entire,  and  the  rest  of  the  frost  If- 
open. 

The  engraving  opposite  represents  the  ground-p|iB 
of  the  whole.  The  black  lines  represent  walls  itil 
standing ;  the  faint  lines  indicate  remains  Only,  but,  ii 
general,  so  clearly  marked  that  there  wasjn^  difficaltf 
in  connecting  them  together.  ^' 

The  building  was  constructed  of  stone,  with  a  mortsi 
of  lime  and  sand,  and  the  whole  front  was  covered  wi& 
stucco  and  painted.  The  piers  were  ornamented  witii 
spirited  figures  in  baS'*relief,  one  of  which  is  represeatsA 


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,  Ae  9Mi|||»cm«cy  as  tlie  oOer  ilii  njlgi,  Ib^J^ooi 
ii^  in  a  more  raued  condition.    It  i$HtiB  on  an 
fteia)  aleiration  of  an  oblong  form,  isxtf  feet  high^ 
Irandred  and  ten  feet  in  front  and  rear,  and  two  hi 
y  d^ed  and  sixty  feet  on  eadi  side.     This  elevation 
farraevly  faced  with  stonO)  which  has  been  thrown  d( 
hj  the  growth  of  trees,  and  its  form  k  hardly  distjnnv 
goishable.     ^ 

The  building  stands  with  its  face  to  tha  east,  9m^ 
measures  two  hondred  and  twenty-ein^  &et  front  hy 
one  hnn  Aed  wd  eighty  feet  deep.  Its  height  is  anf 
more  thcin  twenty-fiTe  feet,  and  all  aromid  it  had  a  hrasd 
projecting  cornice  of  stone.  The  front  contained  tam^ 
teen  doorways,  about  nine  feet  wide  each,  and  the 
terreniftig  piers  are  between  six  and  seven  feet  widib^ 
On  the  left  tm  approaching  Ae  pahee)  ei^  of  the  pim 
haye  fallen  down,  aa  has  also  the  comer  on  tha  ti^mt^ 
and  the  terrace  underneath  is  cumbered  with  the  ruiaa. 
But  six  piers  remam  entire,  and  the  rest  of  the  front  is 
open. 

The  engraving  opposite  represents  the  ground-plan    i 
of  the  whole.     The  black  lines  represent  walk   still 
standing ;  the  faint  lines  indicate  remains  only,  but,  in 
general,  so  clearly  marked  that  there  viras  9P  diflSicalty 
in  connecting  them  together. 

The  building  was  constructed  of  stone,  with  a  mortat 
of  lime  and  sand,  and  the  whole  front  was  covered  with 
stucco  and  painted.  The  piers  were  ornamented  with 
spirited  figures  in  baS'*relief,  one  of  which  is  represented 

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JtwMiiJgrJh  to  «l  «p  te 
lntiMlt  a  poMfln^M  ft>  draw  tlMBu 

wMe  proteUy  preMstad 

wIms  tntive  and  pai»tM||  tha  affett 

twtaoe  MiiMl  hKTtf  hiiMt#ipnBingaiiAhii<ii!ifcd, 

Tha  pniioipal  dotffway  is  not  dMtuiigaufcHl  bjp.fti 
^  ■imt  61 1^ My  wipeaor  mwrnumi^hm m taly  JMitlai 

kgpaMUga  o£  fcrafed  stoae  itepaieadag  iq^itek  in  Iki 
tmmmtj-  Tka  doorwajB  har^  ns  ilinmi, 
IberaoMiaaofaiiy.   WitkM,ott 

fi  m  Aa  waU,  abaiit  aiglii  ar  ton  mehaa.4a|HBa»  irilk-4 
iylmdriaak  atoaa  akoirt  taF«i|»hBs  im  diaiaHi  •  fisad  vpi 
ngjbt^  by  whiob-  pethapa  •  daav  waa  MMrad.  A)pm 
AacoffttEaa  avtaite,  paijectkifiiikMit  a  faa^tieyioiidlha  ^ 
hmik^hithmwete  driUad at  iatonwria  tJawingh  <ha  ■Ibbwi 
abd^oor  improaiiaii  waa^  Ikat  an  immeBw  ootton  elaA^ 
|.    ^  fannig  tba  whola  kogth  of  the  btaldiagi  perhapa  paiDV 

ad  in  a  style  oonespondiiig  whh  the  ornamaDla,  waa  a^ 

.  jWdiad  to  thia  eoniiae^  and  sained  and  lowered  like  a 

j?»f!Wtaiii|  aocoiding  to  Aa  exigencias  of  sob  and  raia. 

I  t^  fltteh  a  eurtain  is  asad  noWin  firoot  of  the  piaana eC 

•aoM  haciendas  in  Yucatan. 

The  topa  of  the  doorwaya  ware  all  faroken.    They 

^ad  evidently  been  Bquara^  and  over  every  one.  w«a 

p.  hffge  aiohee  in  the  wall  on  eaah  Bide,  jii  wUoh  the  lia* 

tab  had  h^m  laid.     These  lialdshad  dttOmi  wdAs 
re  ibnned  farcricen  natural  a|d|^^^lSMttP> 
heaps 
^4JHRp{  lintels.    If  they  had  been  sinf^  sUlttSif 
^   J§V.^-^'^bsin  mast  hsTe  been  visible  and  pvondaent ;  1 
Mitta  up  car  minds  that  these  lintels  were  of 
We  had  SQ  anthority  far  this.    It  is  not 


?'^-> 


T 


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h 


CONSTKUCTION     or     THE     PALACE.  318 

ther  by  Del  Rio  or  Captain  Dupaix,  and  perhaps  we 
ahonld  not  have  ventured  the  conclusion  but  for  the 
wooden  lintel  which  we  had  seen  over  the  doorway  at 
Ocosingo ;  and  by  what  we  saw  afterward  in  Yucatan, 
we  were  confirmed,  beyond  all  doubt,  in  our  opinion. 
I  do  not  conceive,  however,  that  this  gives  any  conclu- 
sive data  in  regard  to  the  age  of  the  buLl«iirigs.  The 
wood,  if  such  as  we  saw  in  the  other  places,  would  be 
Tery  lasting ;  its  decay  must  have  been  extremffly  slow, 
and  centuries  may  have  elapsed  since  it  perished  alto- 
gether. 

The  building  has  two  parallel  corridors  running 
lengthwise  on  all  four  of  its  sides.  In  front  these 
€K>Tridors  are  about  nine  feet  wide,  and  extend  the 
whole  length  of  the  building  upward  of  two  hundred 
feet.  In  the  long  wall  that  divides  them  there  is  but 
one  door,  which  is  opposite  the  principal  door  of  en- 
trance, and  has  a  corresponding  one  on  the  other  side, 
leading  to  a  courtyard  in  the  rear.  The  floors  are 
€t  eement,  as  hard  as  the  best  seen  in  the  remains  of 
Boman  baths  and  cisterns.  The  walls  are  about  ten 
fset  high,  plastered,  and  on  each  side  of  the  principal 
entrance  ornamented  with  medallions,  of  which  the 
borders  only  remain  ;  these  perhaps  contained  the 
boflla  of  the  royal  family.  The  separating-wall  had 
^>eitare8  of  about  a  foot,  probably  intended  for  pur- 
poses of  ventilation.  Some  were  of  this  form  cjja,  and 
some  of  this  '"\p,  which  have  been  called  the  Greek 
Gross  and  the  Egyptian  Tau,  and  made  the  subject  of 
much  learned  speculation. 

The  ceiling  of  each  corridor  was  in  this  form  /I. 
The  builders  were  evidently  ignorant  of  the  principles 
of  the  arch,  and  the  support  was  made  by  stones  lap- 
ping over  as  they  rose,  as  at  Ocosingo,  and  among  the 

Vol.  II.— B  h  27 


^  814  iKcibfeHTf  ot'  tftAtil. 

ib. 
f  Gyelopean  remain*  in  Greece  «nd  Italy.    AJoA^  dto 

top  was  a  layer  of  flat  stone,  and  tbe  flides,  being  plm 

tered,  presented  a  flat  tm&ce.    The  long,  milindn&  eo^ 

fidors  in  front  of  the  palace  wei«  ptobaUj  intended  fio^ 

lords  and  gentlemen  in  waiting;  W  peHuipe,  in  AM 

beautifid  poeitian,  which,  before  the  fatet  gtew  i^p, 

must  have  conunanded  an  extended  view  ef  a  ettltira^ 

ted  and  inhabited  plain,  tile  king  himself  rat  in  it  to  te> 

oeive  td^  repons  of  his  oflioeM  and  to  adminivler  jtMlise. 

IJndefr  onr  dominion  Jnan  oecnpied  Ihe  frolit  Mtiite 

as  a  kitchen,  and  the  ofh^  was  onr  sleeping  apaittseMk 

From  the  centre  door  of  thte  tsoitidor  a  mangt  cf  Mone 
steps  thirty  feet  long  leads  to  Pl  rectangular  ociBtty«t4, 
eighty  feet  long  by  seventy  broad.  G^  each  aide  ef 
the  steps  are  grim  and  gigantic  figores,  oarred  on  MM 
in  basso-n^evo,  nine  or  ten  feet  high,  snd  in  a  posittai 
slightly  inclined  backward  trom  the  end  of  the  stepi 
to  the  floor  of  the  corridor.  The  engraving  opporiUP 
represents  this  side  of  the  courtystrd,  and  the  one  nM 
following  shows  the  figures  alone,  on  a  larget  scakk 
They  are  adorned  with  rich  headdresses  and  aeok 
laces,  but  their  attitude  is  that  of  pain  and  trouHfi^ 
The  design  and  anatomical  proportions  of  the  l^ttei 
are  faulty,  but  there  is  a  foroe  of  expression  aborit  then 
which  shoMTs  the  skill  and  conceptive  power  of  the  M^ 
tist.  When  we  first  took  possession  of  the  palaoe  tUl 
courtyard  was  encumbered  vrilth  trees,  so  that  we  eoM 
hardly  see  across  it,  and  it  was  so  filled  up  with  rubbisk 
that  we  were  obliged  to  toske  excavatiokis  <rf  sevieni 
feet  before  these  figures  could  be  drawn. 

On  each  side  of  the  courtyard  the  palace  was  divided 
mto  apartments,  probably  for  slewing.  On  the  right 
the  piers  have  all  fallen  down.  On  the  left  fhejf  ale 
•till  eninding,  and  drnamented  with  stneoo  figiA^s.    It 


.:5    ■"    .  ■ 


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COLOSSAL       BAS       RELIEFS         IN       STONE 
onDie  East  -tide  ol  Piiniipi*!  I'oun  of  ih^ PttlwcePKlenque 


i^ 


the  centre  apartment,  in  one  of  the  holes  before  refer- 
red to  of  ^  arch,  are  the  remains  of  a  wooden  pole 
about  a  foot  long,  which  once  stretched  across,  but  the 
rest  had  decajred.  It  was  the  only  piece  of  wood  we 
fbond  at  Palenqoe,  and  we  did  not  discover  this  until 
some  time  after  we  had  made  up  our  minds  in  regard 
to  the  wooden  lintels  over  the  doors.  It  was  much 
worm-eaten,  and  probably,  in  a  few  years,  not  a  vestige 
of  it  will  be  left. 

At  the  feurther  side  of  the  courtyard  was  another 
flight  of  stone  steps,  corresponding  with  those  in  front, 
on  each  aide  of  which  are  carved  figures,  and  on  the 
flat  surface  between  are  single  cartouches  of  hiero* 
l^yphics.     The  plate  opposite  represents  this  side. 

The  whole  courtyard  was  overgrown  with  trees,  and 

it  was  encumbered  with  ruins  several  feet  high,  so  that 

die  exact  architectural  arrangements  could  not  be  seen. 

Having  our  beds  in  the  corridor  adjoining,  when  we 

^ipoke  in  the  morning,  and  when  we  had  finished  the 

Work  of  the  day,  we  had  it  under  our  eyes.    Every 

(ime  we  descended  the  steps  the  grim  and  mysterious 

es  stared  us  in  the  face,  and  it  became  to  us  one 

f  the  most  interesting  parts  of  the  ruins.     We  were 

eeedingly  anxious  to  make  excavations,  clear  out  the 

of  rubbish,  and  lay  the  whole  platform  bare  ;  but 

was  impossible.     It  is  probably  paved  with  stone 

cement ;  and  from  the  profusion  of  ornament  in  other 

there  is  reason  to  believe  that  many  curious  and 

^viteresting  specimens  may  be  brought  to  light.     This 

^Sreeabie  work  is  left  for  the  future  traveller,  who  may 

go  time  better  provided  with  men  and  materials,  and 

^vith  more  knowledge  of  what  he  has  to  encounter ;  and, 

ui  my  opinion,  if  he  finds  nothing  new,  the  mere  speo- 

^^e  of  the  courtyard  entire  will  repay  him  for  the  la* 

hoar  and  expense  of  clearing  it. 


T5= 


^-.  ^t. 


■IS       H£l,  I  £ 
t)(f  rim  of  ihrV 


S        RELIEF       it\       STUCC 


B  A    £         RELIEF  .    \         -^ 

oil  w.«  sj<i»  of  r«*i:e  p^«mu« 


^.. 


■) 


Towsaa^  SIT 

Thfi  firat  was  enclosed  by  a  border^  very  wide  at  the 
boUom,  part  of  whioh  is  destroyed.  The  subject  con- 
nsts  of  two  -figures  with  facial  angles  similar  to  that  in 
the  plate  before  given,  plumes  of  feathers  and  other 
leoorations  for  headdreasesi  necklaces,  girdles,  and 
Modals  ;  each  has  hpld  of  the  same  curious  baton,  part 
of  which  is  destroyed,  and  opposite  their  hands  are  hie* 
roglyphics,  which  probably  give  the  history  of  these 
incomprehensible  personages.  The  others  are  more 
ruined,  and  no  attempt  has  been  made  to  restore  them. 
One  is  kneeling  as  if  to  receive  an  honour,  and  the 
ither  a  blow. 

So  far  the  arrangements  of  the  palace  are  simple  and 
iiaily  understood ;  but  on  the  left  are  several  distinct 
md  independent  buildings,  as  will  be  seen  by  the  plan^ 
he  particubuTB  (tf  which,  however,  I  do  not  ccmsider  it 
lecessary  to  describe.  The  principal  of  these  is  the 
ower,  on  the  south  side  of  the  second  court.  This 
ower  is  conspicuous  by  its  height  and  proportions,  bu( 
Ht  examinati<Mi  in  detail  it  is  found  unsatisCactory  and 
iniBteresting.  The  base  is  thirty  feet  square,  and  it  ha» 
hree  stories.  Entering  over  a  heap  of  rubbish  at  the 
Mtse,  we  found  within  another  tawer,  distinct  from  the 
»ater  one,  and  a  stone  staircase,  so  narrow  that  a  large 
nan  could  not  ascend  it  The  staircase  termmatea 
gainst  a  dead  stone  ceiling,  eLosJag'all  farther  passage,, 
he  last  step  being  (mly  six  or  eight  inches  from  iu 
?of  what  purpose  a  staircase  was  carried  up  to  such  a 
KXitless  termination  we  could  not  conjecture.  The 
rluda  tower  was  a  substantial  stone  structure,  and  in 
ta  arrangements  and  purposes  about  as  incomprehenii^ 
iUa  as  the  sculptured  tablets. 

East  of  the  tower  is  another  building  with  two  cor- 
idorsy  one  richly  decorated  with  pictures  in  stucco,,  and 


9  * 


■  \ 


S18  iKciDsirirt  Hr  tkatsk. 


J  *i 


bftving  in  the  eenCre  the  dliptied  tablet  r^iMented  id 
the  engraTing  opposite.  Tc  is  four*  ftet  long  oad  thne 
wide,  of  hard  stone  set  in"  the  iraB^'  tfhd  tfatT  ecnlptiire  ii 
^m  b8(8-relie£  Armind  it  are  tho  xemaine  6f  a  riok  ttoooo 
border.  '  The  prineipal  figure  nts  oroiw^Ieggod  on  i 
oonch  amamented  with  two  leopaidB'  lieada ;  the  atti- 
tude is  easy,  the  phymog^Mfny  the  same  m  tiiat  of  the 
other  personages,  and  tbe  expression  eafan  aad  baasfO- 
lent.  The  fignre  wears  arbmid  itrnedc  a  ttetfdaoe  of 
pearls,  to  which  is  flipsptiidad  a  sautt  medsUion  ese- 
taining  a  ftfee ;  perhaps  inleilded  as  an  fanage  of  tb 
sun.  Like  every  other  subject  of  sovlptora  We  hsd 
seen  in  Ae  country,  the  persanagb  had  eartingSj  bfice- 
lets  on  the  wrists,  aad  a  girdle  'Mimd  the  kniiB.    The 

t'..  headdress  ^Uffers  from  moat  of  tte  odsm  atTldeiiqns is 

i       that  it  w»t.  t]»  plimiM  of  fetlliMi.    IMhr  fh»  heid    { 
*     afe  Area  bieroglyphies. 

*  V.  ipi^^  other  fignre,  which  seems  that  of  a  woman,  is 

sitting  cross-legged  on  the  ground,  richly  dressed,  and 
apparently  in  the  act  of  making  an  offering.  In  this 
supposed  offmng  is  seen  a  plume  of  feathers,  in  which 
the  Iieaddress  of  the  principal  persoB  is  deficient.  Over 
the  head  of  the  sitting  personage  are  four  hieroglyphics. 
This  is  the  only  piece  of  sculptured  stone  about  the  pal- 
ace except  those  in  the  courtyard.  Under  it  formerly 
stood  a  table,  of  which  the  impression  against  the  wsll 
is  still  visible,  and  which  is  given  in  the  engraving  in 
faint  lines,  after  the  model  of  other  tables  still  existing 
in  other  places. 

At  the  extremity  of  this  corridor  there  is  an  aperton 
in  the  pavement,  leading  by  a  filjght  of  stqps  to  a  plst- 
form ;  from  this  a  door,  with  an  ornament  in  stueoo 
over  it,  opens  by  another  flight  of  steps  upon  a  narrow, 
dark  passage,  terminating  in  other  eorridorsi  which  rmi 


i 


1«»V»1' 


V. 


I 


BAS      RELIEF       IN        STO 
■Mull  dT otir otlht  Afmnrnwat  aIlkwTBlM«^li^!m>^ 


p  -. 


\ 


■t  • 


C^    -x^fji 


\ 

if- 
i 

1^ 

J' 

'# 

\ 

1' 

\ 

\  1 

i. 

IAS       RELIEF       IN         STUCCO 


THS    KOTAL    CHAPXIi.  Sit 

transvenely.  These  are  called  snbterraneons  apart- 
ments;  bnt  there  are  windows  opening  from  them  above 
the  gromid,  andi  in  tactf  they  are  merely  a  ground-floor 
below  the  parement  of  the  corridors.  In  most  parts, 
howeveTi  they  are  so  dark  that  it  is  necessary  to  visit 
them  with  candles.  There  are  no  bas-reliefe  or  stucco 
ornaments ;  and  the  only  objects  which  our  guide  point- 
ed out  or  which  attracted  our  attention,  were  sevefa} 
■tone  tablesi  one  crossing  and  blockkig  up  the  corridor, 
about  eight  feet  hmgi  four  wide,  and  three  high.  One 
of  these  lower  corridors  had  a  door  opening  upon  the 
back  part  of  the  tenrace,  and  we  generally  passed 
through  it  with  a  candle  to  get  to  the  other  buildings* 
la  two  other  places  there  were  flints  of  steps  leading 
to  conridorB  above.  Probably  these  were  sleeping 
apartments. 

In  that  part  of  the  jdan  marked  Room  No.  1,  the 
walls  were  more  richly  decorated  with  stucco  ornaments 
than  any  other  in  the  palace ;  but,  unfortunately,  they 
were  much  mutilated.  On  each  side  of  the  doorway 
was  a  stucco  figure,  one  of  which,  being  the  most  per- 
fect, is  given  in  the  engraving  opposite.  Near  it  is  an 
apartment  in  which  is  marked  *'  small  altar."  It  was 
richly  ornamented,  like  those  which  will  be  hereafter 
referred  to  in  other  buildings ;  and  from  the  appearance 
€Kf  the  back  wall  we  supposed  there  had  been  stone  tab- 
lets. In  our  utter  ignorance  of  the  habits  of  the  people 
who  had  formerly  occupied  this  building,  it  was  impos- 
sible to  form  any  conjecture  for  what  uses  these  difTer- 
ent  apartments  were  intended ;  but  if  we  are  right  in 
calling  it  a  palace,  the  name  which  the  Indians  give 
il,  it  seems  probable  that  the  part  surrounding  the  court- 
yards was  for  public  and  state  occasions,  and  that  the 
lest  was  occupied  as  the  place  of  residence  of  the  royal 


i 


8A«       RELIEF       IN         ( T U C C O 


r 

r 

r 


INCIDENTS     or    TRATXI, 


family :  this  room  wilh  the  small  altar,  we  may  «i . , 
was  what  would  be  called,  in  oar  own  times,  a  WJ^ 
obapel. 

Willi  these  helps  aiid  the  oid  of  the  plan,  the  nMM> 
will  be  able  to  iiiiil  his  way  through  the  rui>i«d  pal^*^ 
of  Palcni)tic ;  be  will  form  some  idea  of  the  proftai^* 
of  tl8  ornaments,  of  their  tmiqiie  nnd  striking  chu 
aud  of  titoir  mournful  effect,  shrouded  by  trees; 
perhaps  with  him,  as  witli  us,  fancy  will  present  it  • 
was  before  the  hand  of  rnin  bod  swept  over  il,  psl-^ 
in  its  amplitude  aiid  rich  decorations,  and  occupied  1^^ 
the  strange  people  whose  portraiu  aiul  figures  now  ado*^^""^ 
its  walls. 

The  reader  will  not  be  surprised  Ihat,  wiih  saofa  ot^"^^^ 
jccts  to  engage  our  attention,  we  disregiirdcd  a ""^ 


the  discoinforis  uf  our  princely  residence.  We 
peeled  at  this  place  to  live  upon  game,  but  were  di*** 
appointed.  A  wild  turkey  we  could  shoot  at  any  tiin^' 
from  the  door  of  the  palace ;  but,  after  trying  ooc^  w^^' 
did  not  venture  to  trifle  with  our  teelh  upon  anoiber£ 
and  besides  these,  there  was  nothing  but  parrots,  mon— ' 
keys,  and  lizards,  all  very  good  eating,  but  which  we^ 
kept  in  reserve  for  a  time  of  pressing  neccsflly.  TUb^ 
density  of  the  forest  and  the  heavy  rains  wotild,  bow*-' 
ever,  hnvc  jnside  sporting  impracticable. 

Once  only  I  r.tlempted  an  exploration.  Ptom  lbs  '* 
door  of  the  palace,  almost  on  a  line  wilh  lh«  froat,  ross 
■  high  steep  muuntnin,  which  we  thought  must  cai»- 
mand  a  view  of  the  city  in  its  whole  extent,  and  pci- 
hape  itself  contain  ruins,  I  took  the  bciu'mg,  and,  with 
a  compass  in  my  hand  and  an  Fndi&n  before  me  with 
his  mnchele,  from  the  rear  of  the  laat>menuon<;d  build> 
ing  cut  a  nraight  line  up  east-northeast  to  tlte 
woent  was  so  steep  thai  I  was  obliged  to  haul 
ly  b^  the  branches.     Ou  the  top  wus  a  high 


he  top.  ^"^i^H 
haul  oqrBBll^^^l 
gh  mouod  ei  ^^H 


■^ 


THE    A  Q VB  DUCT.  SSI 

f  with  a  fouudation>waU  still  remaiaiug.  Praba- 
Rlowcr  or  temple  had  stood  there,  but  the  woods 
were  as  thick  as  below,  and  no  part  of  the  ruined  city, 
not  even  the  polace,  could  be  seen.  Trees  were  grow- 
ing out  of  the  top,  up  one  of  which  I  climbed,  but  could 
not  see  the  palace  or  any  one  of  the  buildings,  fiack 
toward  the  mountain  was  nothing  but  forest ;  in  front, 
thratlgh  an  opening  in  the  trees,  we  saw  a  great  wood- 
ed plain  extending  to  Tobasco  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico ; 
and  the  Indian  at  the  foot  of  the  tree,  peering  through 
the  branches,  turned  his  tac.a  np  to  me  with  a  beaming 
expreEKion,  and  pointing  to  a  httle  spot  on  the  plain, 
which  was  to  bun  the  worldiOriedout/'alliestaelpue- 
blo,"  "  there  is  the  village."  Thi«  was  the  only  occa- 
rion  on  which  I  attempted  to  explore,  for  it  was  the 
only  time  I  had  any  mark  to  aim  at. 

I  must  except,  however,  the  exploration  of  an  aque- 
doct  which  Pawling  and  I  attempted  together.  It  is 
supplied  by  a  stream  which  runs  at  the  bsee  of  the  ter- 
race on  which  the  palace  stands.  At  the  time  of  our 
arrival  the  whole  stream  passed  through  this  aqueduct. 
It  was  now  swollen,  and  ran  over  the  top  and  along* 
aide.  At  the  mouth  we  had  great  difficulty  iu  stem- 
ming the  torrent.  Within  it  was  perfectly  dark,  and 
we  oould  not  move  without  candles.  The  sides  were 
of  smooth  stones  about  four  feet  liigh,  and  the  roof 
was  made  by  atones  lapping  over  like  the  corridors  ot 
the  boildinge.  At  a  short  distance  from  the  entrance 
the  passage  turned  to  the  left,  and  at  a  distance  of  one 
hmidrcd  and  sixty  feet  it  was  completely  blocked  up 
by  Ibe  mill!"  of  the  roof,  wliich  had  fallen  down.  What 
was  its  direction  beyond  it  was  impossible  to  deter- 
mine, but  eertatnly  it  did  not  pass  nnder  the  palace,  as 
a  supposed. 

^n.— ss 


1 


■'■-*• 


■•-■.( 


Betides  the  clftpe-<)f  thuiftir  sad  Mta^.qf  JigklMik 
w«  hid  me  dan&atlli|^  it  wft»4MM;  a  «»»,ilil 
•ounded  Uke  die  oKMlung  of;  •  dtfjsf^&cMMkr  iMflNk 
stealthy  trei^  which,  •■  we  «U  sMtid  ^^iflgiMV 
I  Ihongfat  was  thit  of «  Wfld  beegl^  but  wUd|:li5i£Mk 
erwood,  whose  bed  was  nasareyf  hnagiaedto  JhilhitM 
a  man.  We  dimbed  vp  &e  fMnnd  el  Afflea^iUmsjit 
the  end  of  this  oonidori  but  bejoad  att  wm  Ihfa^fcdwili 
ness.  Pftwling  fired  Iwioa  a»  ka  inthMtieft  jhatws 
were  awake,  and  we  airlBnged  poles  aevoss  Ae  onridll 
as  a  trap,  so  that  even  an  Indian  ooaU-«ot  mtmAm 
that  quarter  withont  being  throws  down  with 
siderable  noise  and  detriment  to  his  psnkMk 

Besides  moscbetoea  and  garrapataa^  -ov  tiiill^wfi  isfi 
fared  from  another  woise  inseet,  oaftkd  by^llia  natiwi 
niguas^  which,  we  are  told,  pestered  die  8ps«iiida  fH 
their  first  entry  into  the  ooontry,  mad  wbiieb»  mf^  Ae 
historian,  "  ate  their  Way  into  the  Flesh,  under  Alt 
Nails  of  the  Toes,  then  laid  their  Nits  there  within,  end 
multiplied  in  such  manner  that  there  waa  no  ridding 
them  but  by  Cauteries,  so  that  some  lost  their  Toe% 
and  some  their  Feet,  whereas  they  should  at  first  have 
been  picked  out ;  but  being  as  yet  unacquainted  with 
the  Evil,  they  knew  not  how  to  apply  the  Remedy." 

This  description  is  true  even  to  the  last  clause.  We 
had  escaped  them  until  our  arrival  at  Palenque,  and 
being  unacquainted  with  the  evil,  did  not  know  bow  to 
apply  the  remedy.  I  carried  one  in  my  foot  for  seim- 
al  days,  conscious  that  something  was  wrong,  but  not 
knowing  what,  until  the  nits  had  been  laid  and  nndti> 
plied.  Pawling  undertook  to  pick  them  out  with  s 
penknife,  which  left  a  large  hole  in  the  flesh;  and,  i» 
luckily,  from  the  bites  of  various  inseots  my  fixit  be* 
eame  so  inflamed  that  I  could  not  get  on  shoe  or  stock* 


mall  bkMk  Hies,  the  bites  td  ^dddi  I  did 
:Afr^fneneiit  of  iaffiotioii^  Init  which  Ml 
Vkte  thepuootiiree  of  a  hosdred  pins.  The  ini- 
MM«o  gieaty  sad  the  sweUhig  increased  so  much, 
StaottBie  alannedy  and  determined  to  return  to  the 
fifaige^  *It  warn  no  easy  matter  to  get  there.  The  foot 
VM  too  Ug  to  pot  in  a  stirrupy  and,  indeed,  to  keep  it 
hril  ifixr  a  fiBW  moments  in  a  hanging  position  made  it 
fiel  as  if  Ihe  Mood  would  burst  through  the  skin,  and 
Ifaa  idea  of  striking  it  against  a  bush  makes  me  shudder 
even  taam.  It  was  indispensable,  however,  to  leave  the 
yiaeeb  I  sent  in  to  the  viUage  for  a  mule,  and  on  the 
tenth  dajjT  after  my-  arrival  at  the  ruins,  hopped  down 
the  terrace,  mounted,  and  laid  the  unfortunate  member 
on-  a  pillow  over  the  pommel  of  the  saddle.  This  gave 
me,  far  diat  muddy  road,  a  very  uncertain  seat.  I  had 
a  man  before  me  to  cut  the  branches,  yet  my  hat  was 
knocked  off  three  or  four  times,  and  twice  I  was  obliged 
to  demount ;  but  in  due  season,  to  my  great  relief,  we 
deared  the  woods.  ^  After  the  closeness  and  confine- 
ment of  the  forest,  coming  once  more  into  an  open 
ooontry  quickened  every  pulse. 

As  I  ascended  to  the  table  on  which  the  village  stood, 
I  observed  an  unusual  degree  of  animation,  and  a  crowd 
of  peopfe  in  the  grass-grown  street,  probably  some  fif- 
teen or  twenty,  who  seemed  roused  at  the  sight  of  me, 
and  presently  three  or  four  men  on  horseback  rode  to- 
ward me.  I  had  borne  many  different  characters  in 
ttat  country,  and  this  time  I  was  mistaken  for  three 
padres  who  were  expected  to  arrive  that  morning  from 
Tunbala.  If  the  mistake  had  continued  I  should  have 
had  dinner  enough  for  six  at  least;  but  unluckily,  it 


IM  «    xirciDBiiTf  or  t&ayxxn 


soon  discovered,  and  I  rode  on  to  the  door  of  oox 
dd  house.    Presently  the  alcalde  appeared|  with  his 
keys  in  his  hands  and  in  full  dress,  i.  e.,  his  shirt  w^ 
inside  of  his  pantaloons;  and  I  was  happy  to  find  tl*^ 
h»  was  in  a  worse  hnmour  at  the  coming  of  the  padr^^ 
than  at  our  arrival ;  indeed,  he  seemed  now  rather        V) 
hsve  a  leaning  toward  me,  as  one  who  could  nynnmihi  Ml" 
in  his  vexation  at  the  absurdity  of  mairmg  such  a  fii^EUBtf 
about  them.    When  he  paw  my  foot,  too,  he  lealKL^ 
showed  some  commiseration,  and  endeavoured  to  m%W  mlk^ 
me  as  comfortable  as  possible.    The  swelling  had  Lk.  ia* 
oeased  very  much.    I  was  soon  on  my  back,  and,  1] 
perfectly  quiet,  by  the  help  of  a  medioine-chesl, 
tioB,  and  absence  of  irritating  causes,  in  two  days 
ni^ts  I  reduced  the  inflammation  very  sensibly. 


/ 


\ 


A  T«iGB  ricir  mm  kvims.  SW 


•t'  r 


CHAPTER  XDC. 

7-Oud  Pltyini^Simdajw— Ifaat.— A  DiniMr  Party.— MtmentOM  of  Uodmw— 
CartDiBi.—Ilelimi  to  llie  Roiaa.— A  muked  Change.— TeniiSc  Thim- 
WhfaHfiid^A  SoMM  of  tiM  SnbUmt  and  TnrriUe. 


.The  third  day  I  heard  from  the  ruins  a  Toice  of  wail- 
wigm  Juan  had  upeet  the  lard|  and  every  drop  was 
§eoe.  The  imploring  letter  I  received  roused  all  my 
isnsibilities;  and,  forgetting  everything  in  the  emergen- 
ejf  I  hurried  to  the  alcalde'Si  and  told  him  a  hog  must 
die.  The  alcalde  made  difficulties,  and  to  this  day  I 
Wimot  account  for  his  concealing  from  me  a  fact  of 
which  he  must  have  been  aware,  to  wit,  that  on  that 
wry  night  a  porker  hcul  been  killed.  Very  early  the 
nazt  morning  I  saw  a  boy  passing  with  some  strings  of 
frash  porky  hailed  him,  and  he  guided  me  to  a  hut  in 
the  suburbs,  but  yesterday  the  dwelling  of  the  unfortu- 
nate quadruped.  I  procured  the  portion  of  some  hon- 
Palenquian,  and  returned,  happy  in  the  conscious- 
of  making  others  so.  That  day  was  memorable, 
too,  for  another  piece  of  good  fortune ;  for  a  courier  ar- 
med from  Cindad  Beal  with  despatches  for  Tobasoo, 
and  a  back-load  of  bread  on  private  account.  As  soon 
aa  the  intelligence  reached  me,  I  despatched  a  messen- 
ger to  negotiate  for  the  whole  stock.  Unfortunately,  it 
waa  sweetened,  made  up  into  diamonds,  circles,  and 
other  fimoiful  forms,  about  two  inches  long  and  an  ineh 
thiek,  to  be  eaten  with  chocolate,  and  that  detestable 
Ind  was  ooaing  out  of  the  crust.    Nevertheless,  it  was 

28 


bread ;  and  placing  it  oarefnlly  on  a  taUe,  with  a  freab 
cheese,  the  product  of  our  cow,  I  lay  down  at  ni^ 
foil  of  the  joy  that  morning  would  diffbae  OTcr  the  ra- 
ins  of  Palenque ;  but,  alas !  all  human  calculations  aie 
¥ain.  In  my  first  tfeep  I  w«a  roased  by  a  aevere  dap 
of  thunder,  and  detected  an  enormous  eat  on  the  tabk. 
While  my  boot  was  saiUBg  toward  hn^  wMi  one  boml 
she  reached  the  waU  and  disappeared  under  the  earn 
of  the  roof.  I  fell  aaleqp  again ;  aheretnmady  and  dK 
consequences  were  fatal. 

The  padres  were  slow  in  motement,  and  afker  keeping 
the  Tillage  in  a  state  of  excitement  for  three  days,  tUi 
morning  they  made  a  triumphal  entry,  escorted  by  cifr 
mns,  and  with  a  train  of  more  than  a  hundred  Indian^ 
carrying  hammocks,  chairs,  and  luggage.  The  TiUagei 
^{  Tumbala  and  San  Pedro  had  turned  out  two  or  tfatse 
hundred  strong,  and  carried  tiiem  on  their  backs  aad 
shoulders  to  Nopa,  where  they  were  met  by  a  deputt- 
tion  from  Palenque,  and  transferred  to  the  village.  It 
is  a  glorious  thing  in  that  country  to  be  a  padre,  and 
next  to  being  a  padre  one's  self  is  the  position  of  being  t 
padre's  friend.  In  the  afternoon  I  visited  them,  but 
after  the  fatigues  of  the  journey  they  were  all  asleep, 
and  the  Indians  around  the  door  were  talking  in  low 
tones  so  as  not  to  disturb  them.  Inside  were  enormom 
piles  of  luggage,  which  showed  the  prudent  care  the 
good  ecclesiastics  took  of  themselves.  The  siesta  over, 
very  soon  they  appeared,  one  after  the  other,  in  dresses^ 
or  rather  undresses,  difficult  to  describe,  but  certaiidy 
by  no  means  clerical ;  neither  of  them  had  coat  or  jacket 
Two  of  them  were  the  cures  of  Tumbala  and  Ayahm, 
whom  we  had  seen  on  our  journey.  The  third  was  a 
Franciscan  Mar  from  Ciudad  Real,  and  they  had  eoms 
«Epressly  to  visit  the  ruins.     All  had  suifered  aeveretj 


A  nv9V  FmiBBT.  an 

tlM  journey.  The  cura  of  Ayalon  was  a  deputy 
to  GongreBi,  and  in  Mexico  many  inquiries  had  been 
Bade  of  him  about  the  ruina,  on  the  supposition  that 
they  were  in  his  neighbourhood,  which  erroneous  sup* 
poaition  he  mentioned  with  a  feeling  reference  to  the 
intervening  mountains.  The  padre  of  Tumbala  was  a 
pmnising  young  man  of  twenty-eight,  and  weighed  at 
Ihat  time  about  twelTC  stone,  or  two  hundred  and  farty 
panda:  a  heavy  hiad  to  carry  about  with  him  over 
aoeh  roads  as  they  had  traversed ;  but  the  Dominican 
ftjar  suffered  most,  and  he  sat  sideways  in  a  hanmioek, 
wllh  his  vest  open,  wiping  the  perspiration  from  his 
teaast.  They  wwe  all  intelligent  men,  and,  in  £act,  the 
diwmnatanee  oi  their  OAking  the  journey  for  no  other 
pmioae  than  to  visit  the  rains  was  alone  an  indication 
of  their  siqperior  character.  The  Congressman  we  had 
on  our  way  through  his  village,  and  then  were 
k  with  his  general  knowledge,  and  particularly 
with  his  force  of  character.  He  had  borne  an  active 
paK  hi  all  the  convulsions  of  the  country  from  the  time 
«f  the  revolution  against  Spain,  of  which  he  had  been 
Ito  instigator,  and  ever  since,  to  the  scandal  of  the 
Oknreh  party,  stood  forth  as  a  Liberal ;  he  had  played 
Aa  soldier  as  well  as  priest,  laying  down  his  bloods 
ilaiiied  sword  after  a  battle  to  confess  the  wounded  and 
&ying'j  twice  wounded,  once  chronicled  among  the 
Wled,  an  exile  in  Oiiatimala,  and  with  the  gradual  i^ 
of  the  Liberal  party  restored  to  his  place  and 
a  deputy  to  Congress,  where  very  soon  he  was 
In  take  part  in  new  convulsions.  They  were  all  start* 
lad'  by  the  stories  of  moschetoes,  insects,  and  reptiles  at 
tto  tains,  and  particularly  by  what  they  had  heard  of 
Ite  eonditioa  of  my  foot. 
While  we  were  taking  chocolate  the  cura  of  Palenqoa 


SS8  :NciDBirT«  or  teayxi.. 

entered.  At  the  time  of  ov  fint  amval  he  was  wbamk 
ftt  another  riUage  nndeor  hie  eharge,  and  I  had  not  seen 
him  before.  He  was  more  original  in  his  appearanee 
than  either  of  the  others,  being  very  tail,  with  long  blad[ 
hair,  an  Indian  face  and  complexion,  and  certainly  fow 
fifths  Indian  blood.  Inde^,  if  I  had  seen  him  in  la* 
dian  costume,  and  what  that  is  the  reader  by  this  timi 
understands,  I  should  have  taken  him  f<Mr  a  '^  piirOy".« 
Indian  of  unmixed  descent.  His  dress  was  as  und»- 
ical  as  his  appearance,  consisting  of  an  old  straw  hat, 
with  the  rim  turned  up  before,  behind,  and  at.  the  side% 
so  as  to  make  four  regular  comers,  with  a  broad  bloi 
velvet  riband  for  a  hatband,  both  soiled  by  long  ezpe* 
sure  to  wind  and  rain.  Beneath  this  were  a  oheok  shirt, 
an  old  blue  silk  neckcloth  with  yellow  stripes,  a  str^psd 
roundabout  jacket,  black  waistcoat,  and  pantaiooai 
made  of  bedticking,  not  meeting  the  waistcoat  by  tws 
inches,  the  whole  tall  figure  ending  below  in  yellow 
buckskin  shoes.  But  under  this  outr6  appearance  ex- 
isted a  charming  simplicity  and  courtesy  of  manner,  and 
when  he  spoke  his  face  beamed  with  kindness.  The 
reception  given  him  showed  the  good  feeling  existing 
among  the  padres;  and  after  some  general  conv^raa^ 
tion,  the  chocolate  cups  were  removed,  and  one  of  the 
padres  went  to  his  chest,  whence  he  produced  a  pack 
of  cards,  which  he  placed  upon  the  table.  He  said  that 
he  always  carried  them  with  him,  and  it  was  very  pleas* 
ant  to  travel  with  companions,  as,  wherever  they  stopped, 
they  could  have  a  game  at  night.  The  cards  had  ev- 
idently done  much  service,  and  there  was  sometluDg 
orderly  and  systematic  in  the  preliminary  arrangements, 
that  showed  the  effect  of  regular  habits  and  a  well-train* 
ed  household.  An  old  Indian  servant  laid  on  the  ta* 
ble  a  handful  of  grains  of  corn  and  a  new  bundle  of 


ftfMT  dgnfc^  .Hm  graimi  of  ocmth  were  valued  at  aine* 
tiow  I  deefaied  joining  m  Ihe  game,  whereupon  one  of 
the  fgvereiid  fatheie  kept  aloof  to  entertain  me,  and  the 
othet  thne  aal  damn  to  Mouthy  still  taking  part  in  the 
eeawiieatkwi.  *  Very  soon  they  became  abstractedi  and 
I  lell  tbem  pkying  as  eameatly  as  if  the  aoule  of  uncoil 
^evted  lodiaaa  weve  at  stake.  I  had  often  heard  the 
ill-natiif«d  remark  of  foreigners,  that  two  padres  cannot 
Meet  in  that  eountry  without  playing  cards,  but  it  was 
the  first  tmie  I  had  sean  its  verification ;  perhaps  (I  feel 
gnikty  HI  saying^so)  because,  except  on  public  occasions^ 
it^was  the  first  time  I^had  er&  seen  two  padres  togeth«> 
«r.  Betee^I  left  them  the  padres  invited  me  to  dine 
wMi  then^tha  neaEt  day,  aad  on  retivning  to  my  owtt 
fiilnii  I  ioond  that  Dob  Hsmiago,  the  gentlttnan  who 
gave  them*  the  diflBor^  and^  anst  to  the  pvefset,  the  pri»> 
eipal  iahahitaaity  had-o^ed  upon  me  with  a  like  invito- 
tiasy  whieh  I  need  aot  say  I  accepted. 

The  next  dej  was  Sonchiy ;  the  stotm  of  the  Bi|^ 
had  lottsd  aw»yv  ^^  air  >waa  soft  and  balmy,  the  grass 
mm  greett,  and,  net  being  obliged  to  travel,  I  felt  what 
the  usiims  aver,  that  the  mocnings  of  the  rainy  seaeoft 
wwe  the  finest  in  the  year.  It  was  a  ^reat  di^  (ot  ihm 
XMia  ehvrii  al  Palenqiie.  The  fbitr  padres  were  thivre^ 
ett  in  their  gowns  and  sorpliees,  all  aansted  iis  the  een^ 
and  the  Indians  fifom  every  hvt  in  the  village 
towisss.  Thisover,all  retired,  and  in  a  few  mm* 
.the  village  was  as  quiet  es  ever. 

At  twelve  o'clock  I  went  to  the  house  of  Don  Santiago 
ttrdkiar  «^IKe  three  stranger  padres  were  there,  and  most 
ai'itho  guests  were  assembled.  Don  Santiago,  the  richsst 
manita  Balaaque,  and  the  most  extensive  merchant,  ia% 
eaivad  us  in  his  tienda  or  store,  which  was  merelya  few 
ihslvettwith  a  eomilttr  before  them  in  <me  comert^and  Ui 

V    .n.^TT  ^ 


INCIBVIIVS    or    TEATIK 

whole  stock  of  morchaBdifle  wm  worth  perhafiB  tmo^ 
or  thirty  doUan ;  bvtDoa  Santiago  irase&tiEely  a  differ- 
ent style  of  man  from  oee  in  such  smi^  business  in  this 
oountry  or  Europe ;  courteous  in  oaSmens  and  intelli- 
gent for  that  country ;  he  was  dressed  in  whita  pants- 
loons  and  red  sUppers,  a  clean  shirt  with  an  embroide^ 
ed  bosom,  and  sospendersy  whioh  probably  cost  moie 
than  all  the  rest  of  his  habiiimentSf  and  wmre.  aiH  to  bs 
hidden  under  coat  and  waistcoat.  In  this  place,  whish 
had  before  seemed  to  me  so  Bwoh  out  of  the  woridyl 
was  brought  more  diteetly  in  contact  with  heme  thsn 
at  any  other  i  visited.  The  chair  oa  which  I  sat  came 
from  New*York';  also  asmedl  lookmg^ij^aSBi  two  piecei 
ef  American  *^  cottons/'  and  the  remnant  of  .a  box  of 
vermioellii  of  the  existenoeoC  which  in  the  place  I  wsi 
not  before  ad  wed»  The  most  iBtimatB  foreign  relatioiii 
of  the  inhabitants  were  with  New^^York,  through  tht 
port  of  Tobasco.  They  knew  a  nann  related  tx>  a  femily 
in  the  village  who  had  actually  been  at  New- York,  and 
a  barrel  of  New- York  flour,  the  bare  mention  of  whiek 
created  a  yearning,  had  once  reached  the  place.  Is 
fact,  New-Yc»rk  was  more  familiar  to  them  than  any 
other  part  o{  the  world  except  the  capitals  Don  Ssn* 
tiago  had  a  copy  of  Zavala's  tour  in  the  United  States, 
which,  except  a  few  volumes  of  the  lives  of  saints^  was 
his  library,  and  whioh  he  knew  almost  by  heart ;  and 
they  had  kept  up  with  our  political  history  so  weU  as  ts 
know  that  General  Washington  was  not  president,  but 
General  Jackson. 

The  padre  of  Tumbala,  he  of  two  himdred  and  forty 
pounds'  weight,  was  somewhat  of  an  exquisite  in  dreai 
for  that  country,  and  bad  brought  with  him  his  violm. 
He  was  curious  to  know  the  state  of  musical  science  in 
my  country,  and  whether  the  government  supported 


gMd-of&HL.  •empawtsi  mgratted  Ihat  I  cavU  aoi  pUy 
fooM  ■ational  ain,  nd  enterUoiiedvhifliMlf  Md  tl|B 
company  with  several  of  their  own. 

bi  the  aoeaa  time  the  padre^  of  Palanque  waa  fltill 
mianing,  but,  after-  being  eent  lor  twice,  made  Iumi  af^ 
pearancew  The  dinner  waa  in  fietct  hia;  but,  on  aa- 
eoant  of  want  of  oonvemenoea  ia  the  oonvent  from  hia 
aaT0ipaa^r>onocliao|nng,,.  waa  given  by  hia  friend  Don 
Santiago  <m  his  behalf,  and  the  answer  of  the  boy  sent 
to  aali  him  was  thatjka  had  forgotten  all  about.it.-  Mm 
waa  abaant  a«d  acaentric  enough  for  a  geaiusy  tbougji 
ha  nMula  no  pretanaiopa  to  .that  oharaoter.  Bon  Saie^ 
tiaga  told  ua*  that  ha  ime^  went  to  the  padre'a  houaoi 
whace  he  found  inaida  a  «ow  and  a  ealf ;  the  oura,  19 
gnat  perplexity,  fiqpoldgiaed,  iaying  4hat  he  eouldi  not 
katp  hiaanlfy  they  weald- come  in;  and  oonfiidejred  i^ja 
Capital  idea  whev  J>aii  Santiago- auggeated  to  him.tha 
|taa  af  driving- theaa  out. 

Aa  soon  as  he  appeared  the  othtt  padbrea  rallied  him 
ap^»  fak-fbtgatfulsieai,  which  they  insisted  waa  all  £p»gn- 
M ;  Aay  had  won  aixteen  doUaia  of  him  the  ni^  bf^ 
il»e,aiid  said  dMt  he  waa  afraid  to  come.  He  anawai^ 
a#'in  Ab  same  atradn  ^tlmt  he  was  a  ruined  man.  They 
aftiiad  him  his  revenge,  aad  forthwith  the.  table  wf^i 
fcmight  aul^  cards  and  grains  of-  corn  were  spread 
«fle»  it  as  before,  aad  while  the  padre  of  Tumbak 
pla^iid  the  violin,  the  other  three  played  Monte..  Boing 
SaHday,  in  some  places  this  would  be  consid^ed  rather 
iTfegidar ;  ■  at  least,  to  do  so  with  open  doors  would  be 
aaoaidered  setting  «  bad  example  to  children  and  set- 
^Mts;  aiidj  in  faot^  considering  myself  on  a  pretty  sor 
Mable  footing-,  I  could  not  help  telling  th^n  that  in  my 
eountry  they  woold  all  be  read  out  of  Church.  The 
puiam  Gongreasman  had  met  an  F        *  nah  in  Mexioa 


INCIDSITTS     OV    TEATIL. 

who  told  him  the  Bosne  thing,  and  also  the  manner  of 
obaerviiig  the  Banday  in  England,  whieh  they  all  tfaoagk 
must  be  very  stupid. 

Perhaps  upon  less  gromid  than  this  the  whole  Span- 
ish American  priesthood  has  at  times  been  denoonoed 
as  a  set  of  unprincipled  gamblers,  but  I  have  too  warm 
a  recollection  of  their  many  kindnesses  to  hold  them 
vp  in  this  light.  They  were  all  mtelligent  and  good  men, 
who  would  rather  do  benefita  than  an  injury ;  in  mat^ 
ters  connected  with  religion  they  were  most  reverentiai, 
laboured  diligently  in  their  Tooationa,  and  were  withoot 
reproach  among  their  people.  By  custom  and  edno»> 
tion  they  did  not  consider  that  they  were  doing  wroB|^ 
From  my  agreeable  inlerooorse  with  them,  and  my  le* 
gard  for  their  many  good  qnaUties,  I  would  £ain  safs 
them  from  denumaations  of.  utter  unwoarthineaa  wUdi 
might  be  east  upon  tfaeon*  Nevevtheleas,  it  ia  true  thai 
dinner  was  delayed,  and  all  the  company  kept  waiting 
until  they  had  finished  thev  game  of  cards. 

The  table  was  set  in  an  unoccupied  house  adjoining* 
Eyery  white  man  in  the  village,  except  the  prefect  and 
alcalde,  was  present;  the  former  being  away  at  his 
hacienda,  and  the  latter,  from  the  sneering  references 
he  made  to  it,  I  suspected  was  not  invited.  In  all 
there  were  fifteen  or  sixteen,  and  I  was  led  to  the  seat 
of  honour  at  the  head  of  the  table*  I  objected,  but  the 
padres  seated  me  perforce.  After  the  gentlemen  were 
seated,  it  was  found  that,  by  sitting  close,  there  wss 
room  for  some  ladies,  and  after  the  arrangements  for 
the  table  were  completed,  they  were  invited  to  take 
seats.  Unluckily,  there  was  only  room  for  three,  who 
sat  all  together  on  my  left.  In  a  few  minutes  I  felt 
very  much  as  if  the  dinner  was  got  up  expressly  for  mst 
It  was  long  siBcel  had  seen  such  a  table,  and  I  moomed 


K 


uiifiiiil  that  I  Bdf  not  MBl  notkse  lot  Bir.  OatkttnvoodI 
t»  oaam  ta  tk#  Tttlage  cocidenlaUy  in  tinn'  to  get  an  in^ 
TilKtioii.  B«t  it  W9M  too  late  now ;  there  waft  np  time 
ibr  refleetion}  every  moment  the  dinner  was  going; 
br  some  pleoeft  my  poeiticm  would  haTe  required  me  to 
deirote  myself  to  those  on  each  side  of  me ;  but  at  PfeK 
lenqoe  they  devoted  themselves  to  me.  If  I  stopped 
%  mcMnent  my  plate  was  whipped  aw^y,  and  another 
brou^^t,  loaded  with  something  else.  It  mavseem 
mmwnnerly,  but  I  watched  the  fate  of  certain  olbes, 
partieBkurly  some  dolces  ot  sweetmeats,  hoping  they 
would  not  be  entirriy  consumed,  as  I  purposed  to  se- 
ette  all  that  should  be  left  to  take  with  me  to  the  mimu 
Wime  was  on  the  tabloi  which  was  recommended  to  me 
as  eomiiig  from  New- York,  but  this'  was  n2ft  enough  to 
iflduee  me  to  taste  it.  There  was  no  Wter,  and,  by* 
tka  way,  watar  is  never  put  on  the  table,  and  never 
inak  until  after  the  dolces,  which  come  on  as  the  last 
oourse,  when  il  is  served  in  a  large  tumbler,  wUeh 
passes  round  £»  eaeh  one  to  sip  from.  It  is  entirely 
iiMgalar  and  iU  bred. to  ask  for  water  during  the  meaL 
Banh  gnast,  as  he  rose  from  the  table,  bowed  to  Don 
Santiago,  and  said  '^muchas  gratias,"  which  I  con* 
sidered  in  bad  taste,  and  not  in  keeping  with  the  deli- 
cacy of  ^anish  courtesy,  as  the  host  ought  rather^  to 
thank  his  guests  for  their  society  than  they  to  thank 
him  fiur  hb  dinner.  Nevertheless,  as  I  had  mote  rea^ 
sea  to  be  thankful  than  any  of  them,  I  conformed  to 
the  example  set  me^  After  dinner  my  friei^  becasM 
dMwsy  and  tetired  U>  siesta.  I  found  my  way  baok 
to  Don  Santiago's  bouMy  where,  in  a  conversation  with 
tke,-  ladies^  I  secured  the  remains  of  the  d<dcaS|  and 
baag^  oQt  his  sleek,  ol  vermic^i.  * 

Ja  the moRiNiig,  my'loot  being-  <  ly  leooveiedi 


I  Tode  tap  to  Um  hoQw  of  the  p«l»s  w  OBOort  thoa.  la 
the  raiiu.  Thej  iiad  psawd  tha  Braiing  k>cUi^  ik 
oudt,  and  agua  the  padre  of  Palenque  vaa  waotii^ 
We  rode  over  to  hia  hoase,  and  waited  while  be  aeouiaJ 
eaiefully  on  the  back  of  a  tall  hone  a  little  boy,  wks 
looked  ao  wonderfully  like  him,  that,  out  of  raapeet  la 
hia  obligation  of  celibacy,  people  felt  delicate  in  aakiag 
whoee  son  be  was.  This  dona,  be  tied  an  extrm  pair  cl 
shoea  behind  his  own  saddle,  and  we  sat  off  wiA  tbs 
adi4^f  all  the  village.  The  padres  intended  to  pm 
the  nigfat  at  the  ruins,  and  had  a  train  of  fifty  or  lix^ 
Indiana  loaded  with  beds,  bedding,  proviaiona,  tuttt 
for  mules,  and  multi&rioua  articles,  down  to  a  iMt 
earthen  washbowl ;  besides  which,  more  favoured  Ita 
we,  they  bffi  jbaft-or  five  women. 

Entering  Uie  forest,  we  found  the  braachea  vS  Aa 
trees,  which  'hdd  been  trimmed  on  my  reton  to  tbs  fil* 
lage,  again  weighed  down  by  the  rains ;  the  stietV 
were  very  bad ;  the  padres  were  well  mounted,  hot  ■» 
horaemea,  dismounted  very  often,  and  under  ray  eseiat 
we  got  lost,  but  at  eleven  o'clock,  very  much  to  the  *•^ 
isfaction  of  all,  out  long,  Birange-looking,  stra^linfl 
patty  reached  the  ruins.  The  old  palace  was  once  mO* 
alive  with  inhabitants. 

There  was  a  marked  change  in  it  since  I  left ;  lb* 
walls  were  damp,  the  corridors  wet ;  the  continued  raiB* 
were  working  through  cracks  and  erevieee,  and  openiBt 
leaks  in  the  roof;  saddles,  bridles,  boots,  shoes,  It^ 
were  green  and  mildewed,  and  the  guns  and  pistn* 
covered  with  a  coat  of  rust,  Mr.  Catherwood's  ^ 
pearance  startled  me.  He  was  wan  and  gaunt ;  lamd 
like  me,  from  the  bites  of  insects  ;  bis  face  was  swollA 
and  his  left  arm  hnng  with  rlieumatism  as  if  paralyied. 

We  aent  th^^Kana  across  the  courtyard  to  the  op- 


int  th^^^^na  across  tl 


pMite  eorridofi  vAere  tfie  tight  of  our  loose  traps  might 
Ht  tempt  them  to  their  uadoingi  and  seleetiiig  a  pleee 
fas  &st  purposoi  the  catres  were  set  op  immediately, 
md,  with  all  the  oomforts  of  home,  the  padres  lay  down 
far  SA  hour's  rest»  I  had  no  ill-will  toward  these  worthy 
bssm;  on  the  ooatiaryi  the  most  friendly  feeling ;  bnt, 
todo  the  honours  of  the  palace^  I  iuTited  them  to  dine 
with  us.  Catherwood  and  Fowling  objeeted,  and  they 
amuld  have  done  better  if  left  to  themselves ;  but  they 
qipreciated  the  spirit  of  the  invitation,  and  returned  me 
mochas  gratias.  After  their  siesta  I  escorted  them  over 
the  palaooi  and  left  them  in  their  apartment  Singn- 
laiiy  enough,  that  night  there  was  no  rain;  so  that,  with 
a  hat  before  ft  candlei  we  crossed  the  courtyard  and 
paid  them  a  visit ;  we  found  the  three  reverend  gentle- 
man sitting  on  a  mat  on  the  ground,  winding  iq>  the  day 
with  a  comfortable  game  at  cards,  arid  the  Indians 
aalaep  around  them* 

•  The  next  morning,  with  the  assistance  of  Pawling 
aad  the  Indians  to  Vdt  and  haul  them,  I  escorted  them 
to  ib»  other  buildings,  heard  some  curious  speculations, 
and  at  two  o'clock,  with  many  expressions  of  good-will, 
and  pressing  invitations  to  their  different  convents,  they 
returned  to  the  village. 

Late  in  the  afternoon  the  storm  set  in  with  terrific 
thunder,  which  at  night  rolled  with  fearful  crashes 
against  the  walls,  while  the  vivid  lightning  flashed 
along  the  corridors.  The  padres  had  laughed  at  us 
for  their  supericnr  discrimination  in  selecting  a  sleeping- 
jriace,  and  this  night  their  apartment  was  flooded. 
From  this  time  my  notebook  contains  memoranda  only 
of  the  arrival  of  the  Indians,  with  the  time  that  the 
storm  set  in,  its  violence  and  duration,  the  deluges  of 
vain,  and  the  places  to  which  w«  wer»obhged  to  mo\e 


•  *> 


/ 


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r5l«^<| 

PLAIT    09    TMS     KVINt.  887 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Pbn  of  tbe  Eaini^— P^naidtl  8tniet!ir8.^A  BuUdtaif .^Stucco  OrnanMnttd— 
Uomni  FffviM.— TWblilBr-RMBflkable  Hieroglypliie8.^]UBfe  of  Pilhra.— 
Stow  "taffece.— AMiktr  BriUaafi— A  large  Tablet^A  CroHL--CooJMtiifM 
m  ragud  to  Urn  Croifc  ■Boantifiil  Scalpiure.~A  PlBtform.~Ciniaos  Do* 
noM. — AStatoa— Anolhor  Pymnidal  Stractura,  tarmountod  bj  a  Baildiof  .— 
GnMonk^A  coriooo  Bonolbfw— Stono  TOMota,  with  Figuna  in  Baa.follof.— 
TabloloMf  f%Bni.— TIm  OnlQri».-4foBa  Pynmidal  BtructBiea  and  Baiid» 
I — ^btoot  of  fbo  Roinor^-Thaaa  Raina  tke  Romaini  of  a  poiiahed  and  po- 


Tbb  plan  ofypoffite  indicates  the  poaition  of  all  the 
buildings  which  have  been  discovered  at  Falenqne, 
There  are  r^nains  of  others  in  the  same  vicinityi  bat 
so  utterly  dilapidated  that  we  have  not  thought  it  worth 
wfaHe  to  give  any  description  of  them,  nor  even  to  in- 
dicate their  places  on  the  plan. 

From  the  palace  no  other  building  is  viBible.  Passing 
out  by  what  is  called  the  subterraneous  passage,  you  de- 
scend the  southwest  corner  of  the  terrace,  and  at  the  foot 
inunediately  commence  ascending  a  ruined  pyramidal 
structure,  which  appears  once  to  have  had  steps  on  all  its 
sides.  These  steps  have  been  thrown  down  by  tbe  trees, 
and  it  is  necessary  to  clamber  over  stones,  aiding  the  feet 
by  clinging  to  the  branches.  The  ascent  is  so  steep, 
that  if  the  first  man  displaces  a  stone  it  bounds  down 
the  side  of  the  pyramid,  and  wo  to  those  behind.  About 
half  way  up,  through  openings  in  the  trees,  is  seen  the 

Vol.  II ^U  u  29 


building  repievented  ui  Ui«  engraving  opposite.  Tb« 
height  of  the  ctruotim  oo  wliieh  it  siuiidB  is  one  hHn<k«d 
and  ten  feet  on  the  ilope'.  Kke  engravings  represaal 
the  actual  oonditioa  of  |^  bnUiog,  aunounded  wt 
overgtown  by  trees,  bnt  no  dcaoripiion  and  no  Anm- 
iog  ean  give  Mfv^  ^  ^  mlMd  subliniily  of  iSe  >pee> 
tacle.  From  ths^iniiltiplieity  of  angravings  required  la 
illoatrate  Ae  arcbitcMbaMCVMfltf  ttvMikBom  pan. 
pie,  I  have  omitl|)d  aypriea  of  i 
Qoitt.  pic^eaque  .^M  atiil^ig,  ji 
1  themaelres  to  the  t 


Ad  Oe  forest  ni«de  tlib  dei^' iI^,||f^b|^J||Ni|^ 
uptm  oiB-  misda ;  b«t  aw  ■hjaet  wt^fmmmfkA^jS^ 
11^  w  itoitored, 'M-wJ^tadVi  ftri^fllifa 
parison  wi&  the  arciut*(mgp}.i3t  4^(v 
TheaifipoMdrflatoratiOnawera  mad*  Wker  R  «uM  «i- 
«miiiafiofl,  an*  AVtA  liHi  I1iiil|^  JW  <tfplK% 
wtarf  we  "had  to  golito  ik  it)  mal^th^^'^PiAifftl^ 
mark,  however,  that  the  buildniil^  Itrtf  fMt  ii^  jkA 
wUicb  we  attenqited  tO  restore ;  the  spetfafleaiMMy 
tore  and  atooooed  omamgnte'Wew  dnwn  ak  wrMlt 


■V' 


■  I 


/ 


^■^^^v^ 


Il* 


DBTAtlS     tff    1     RUlHtS    t»tFICB.         889 

r^'Tte  engftt^g  oppOifIs  mpttmeutB  tbe  same  build- 
fei^  cleared  from  forest  and  rMt<^k^)  and,  according 
W  oar  divifiioii,  marked  on  the  plan  No.  1.  In  the 
plate  are  given  the  ground-plan  (begmning  at  the  hot- 
1)9  dw  froBi  elevation,  a  aeetion  showing  the  posi- 
of  tablets  wilhitt,  and  the  front  elevation  on  a 
iiBaller  abide,  with  the  pyramidal  atmotore  on  which  it 
gMids. 

'The  boilding  is  seveniyHrix  feet  in  front  and  twenty- 
five  feet  deep.  It  haa  fiva  doors  and  six  piers,  all 
Slioding.  Tbe  whole  front  was  richly  ornamented  in 
ilDceo,  and  the  eonier  piers  are  covered  with  ^hiero* 
glyphics,   each  of  which  ecmtains  ninety-six  squares. 


The  four  piers  are  OTnamented  wilh  human  &c>''**t 
two  on  each  side,  facing  each  other,  which  are  lepi^ 
senled  in  the  fellowiug  engravings  in  the  order  in  whick 
they  stand  upon  the  pieis. 

The  first  i»  that  of  a  woman  with  a  child  in  het  amMj 
al  least  we  suppose  it  lo  be  intended  for  a  woman  bom 
the  dress.  It  is  enclosed  by  an  elaborate  bocdvf,  Mid 
siands  on  a  rich  ornament.  The  head  ia  destroyed. 
Over  the  top  are  three  hieroglyphics,  and  there  are  tra- 
ces of  hieioglyphicfl  brokaa  off  in  the  corner.  TW 
other  three  are  of  the  same  general  character ;  each 
piohably  had  aa  infant  in  the  atiii*,  and  ovei  eaoh  Mt 
hieroglyphica.  ij 

At  the  foot  of  the  two  centre  piers,  resting  on  Aft 
steps,  ore  two  stone  tablets  with  what  seemed  interest- 
ing figures,  but  so  encumbered  with  ruins  thai  it  wai    ■ 
impossible  to  draw  them. 


■*i 


I  a-HM  a»  Pie'l3'»V»\e«'^ 


a^'^a-a--: 


m    ^ 


•  as    relief    in    stucco. 

dnowof  tic Pin-i or  N" I  <:<uM  da naiTKMM^M 


/ 


KmS?8  PAUiSqrK.  .\°l  (mas  dfPieclra. 


\ 


PjU.ENQrK.    X?ira»ii«rif 


^ 


SIJIROOLTPHICf.  Ml 

The  interior  of  the  buildmg  is  divided  into  two  corri- 
don,  running  lengthwise,  with  a  ceiling  rising  nearly  to 
a  pointy  as  in  the  palace,  and  paved  with  large  square 
■tones.  The  front  corridor  is  seven  feet  wide.  The 
separating  wall  is  very  massivei  and  has  three  doors, 
a  large  one  in  the  centre,  and  a  smaller  one  on  each 
side.  In  this  corridor,  on  each  side  of  the  principal 
door,  is  a  large  tablet  of  hieroglyphics,  each  thirteen 
feet  Ionic  and  eight  feet  high,  and  each  divided  into  two 
hundred  and  forty  squares  of  characters  or  sjrmbols. 
Both  are  set  in  the  waU  so  as  to  prcqeot  three  or  four 
mohes.  In  one  place  a  hole  had  been  made  in  the 
wall  close  to  the  side  of  one  of  them,  apparently  for 
the  purpose  of  attempting  its  removal,  by  which  we 
discovered  that  the  stone  is  about  a  foot  thick.    The 


1 


■  IBftOOLTPVTCS.  Ml 


The  interior  of  the  bnildiiig  is  drnded  aiM  two 
don,  nmning  lengthwise,  with  a  mhos  risBC 
a  point,  aa  in  the  palace,  and  paved  wi:a  ant  wcutr^ 
atones.  The  front  corridor  is  aevea  h&i  w^de.  Tne 
separating  wall  is  Terr  nnsEi^e.  and  bai  zm^ft  6'xxb. 
a  large  one  in  the  centre,  and  a  msmLiw  xifUi  vl  ebvt 
aide.  In  this  corridor,  on  each  side  oe  tiie  pruKaui^ 
door,  is  a  large  tablet  of  hici 'jgiypsje^  fss^-'s 
fiset  Ionic  uid  eight  ieet  high,  and  eaec  dmiifj  na^ 
ftnndred  and  fortv  sqoares  of  tharhKTJSTW  or  w^tustji 
Both  are  set  in  the  wafl  so  as  10  uroweei  tsrw 
inches.  In  one  viace  a  boie  bad  bws&  coidt 
wall  close  to  die  side  of  one  of  iheci.  ^en^nsssj  1m 
the  pnrpoae  of  atlempiinf  its  reao^va^  ay  v-u«eL  -»% 
diflcOTered  that  die  Bcone  is  aboc!  \  icnr  tiuck-     Taa 


4 


w 


it 


m 


Mth  aiftov  ««A  wMttii  wen  ii^llm  mwrnt^m  JnMmMi 
In  the.  r«li»4MuiA  l»lte  •«  iitttiP  i^liiTitg  if 

ivhiali  )»i  jwwfpjwlri  itifftf.  wilb  Hit  tlMib  ^MiA  wtal 
am  o«Md  «o|  itiMWi  t|w>iigh if<whif t it  jiighl  te4i^ 

MBdj  ote  kalf  ff  th*liiM«ifpbiw^u«  obltoeroMidl  If 
the  MlKMH  4f  wstiT  Md*'dMdm|MHMi  flf  lh»  at 

«Mk  m  fltlt4c  vfMit  i)f '^fWn^iiMWi  a«d  it  ^iM 
i  to  wash  and  aorape  themi  clear  the  linea  with  a  atioki 

and  sdrnb  them  thoroughly,  for  which  last  operation  a 
pair  of  blacking-brushes  that  Juan  h%l  picked  up  in  my 
house  at  Guatimala,  and  disobeyed  my  order  to  throw 
away  upon  the  road,  proved  exactly  what  we  wanted 
and  could  not  have  procured.  Besides  this  process,  on 
account  of  the  darkness  of  the  corridor,  from  the  thick 
shade  of  the  trees  growing  before  it,  it  was  necessary  to 
burn  candles  or  torches,  and  to  throw  a  strong  Ugfat 
upon  the  stones  while  Mr.  Catherwood  was  drawing. 

The  corridor  in  the  rear  is  dark  and  gloomy,  and  di- 
vided into  three  apartments.  Each  of  the  side  apart- 
ments has  two  narrow  openings  about  three  inches  wide 
and  a  foot  high.  They  have  no  remains  of  sculptuie, 
or  painting,  or  stuccoed  ornaments.  In  the  centre  apart* 
ment,  set  in  the  back  wall,  and  fronting  the  principal 
door  of  entrance,  is  another  tablet  of  hieiroglyphioai 
four  feet  six  inches  wide  and  three  feet  sax  inches  high. 
The  roof  above  it  is  tight ;  oonseqaently  it  has  aol  sat 

MP 

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»•«-;  4<-   'fro-  •4l#':4r^^tC!i««-v-jr-jip..*   vP.'il    Hmitf^*^  ••■Jftii.  <vV«^ 

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nidi    ',  ^'*>  '4i««|l  ^*  4*^-r-K4>rt^V    JK^iF    '.  »i(;i ;'  Mir-  -"^k** 


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RZUAftKABLE     BIEKOGI.Y  PRICE.  343 

fered  from  axposnie,  and  the  hieroglyphic*  are  perfect, 
ihon^  the  stone  is  cracked  lengthwise  through  the  mid- 
die,  as  indicated  in  the  eograving. 

The  impression  made  apon  our  minds  by  these  speak- 
iug  but  uninlelligible  tablets  I  shall  not  attempt  to  de- 
scribe. From  some  unaccountable  cause  they  have 
never  before  been  presenled  to  the  public.  Captains 
Del  Rio  and  Dupaix  both  refer  to  them,  but  in  very 
lew  irords,  and  neither  of  them  has  given  a  single  draw- 
ing. Acting  under  a  royal  commission,  and  selected, 
doubtless,  as  £t  men  for  ilic  duties  intrusted  to  them, 
they  cannot  have  been  ignornnt  or  insensible  of  their 
value.  Il  is  my  belief  they  did  not  give  them  because 
ID  both  cases  the  artists  attached  to  (heir  expedition 
were  incapable  of  the  labour,  and  the  steady,  deter- 
mined perseverance  required  for  drawing  such  compK- 
CBted,  unintelligible,  and  anomalous  ctinTacters.  As  at 
Copan,  Mr.  Catherwood  divided  hia  paper  into  squares ; 
the  original  drawings  were  reduced,  and  the  engravings 
corrected  by  himself,  and  I  believe  they  are  as  true 
C4^iefl  as  the  pencil  can  make  :  the  real  written  records 
of  a  lost  people.  The  Indians  call  thi»  building  an  e»- 
Guela  or  school,  but  our  friends  the  padres  called  it  a 
tribunal  of  justice,  and  these  stones,  they  said,  contain- 
ed the  tables  of  the  law. 

There  is  one  important  fact  to  be  noticed.  The  hie- 
roglyphics are  the  same  as  were  found  at  Copan  and  Qni- 
rigua.  The  intermediate  country  is  now  occupied  by 
races  of  Indians  speaking  many  different  languages,  and 
entirely  unintelligible  to  each  other ;  but  Uiere  is  room 
for  the  belief  that  the  whole  of  tliis  country  was  once 
occupied  by  the  same  race,  speaking  the  same  lan- 
guage, or,  at  least,  having  (he  same  written  oharaclors. 

There  is  no  staircase  or  other  visible  oommunicalion 


1 


344  IMCIDBITTS    OP    TftATIL. 

between  the  lower  and  upper  parts  of  this  buildings  and 
the  only  way  of  reaching  the  latter  was  by  climbiBg 
a  tree  which  grows  close  against  the  wall,  and  the 
branches  of  which  spread  oyer  the  root  The  roof  ii 
inclined,  and  the  sides  are  covered  with  stucco  ornar 
ments,  which,  from  exposure  to  the  elements,  and  the 
assaults  of  trees  and  bushes,  are  faded  and  ruined,  eo 
that  it  was  impossible  to  draw  them ;  but  enough  is- 
mained  to  give  the  impression  that,  when  perfect  and 
painted,  they  must  have  been  rich  and  imposing. 
Along  the  top  was  a  range  of  pillars  eighteen  inches 
high  and  twelve  apart,  made  of  small  pieces  of  stone 
laid  in  mortar,  and  covered  with  stucco,  crowning 
which  is  a  layer  of  flat  projecting  stones,  having  some* 
what  the  appearance  of  a  low  open  balustrade. 

In  front  of  this  building,  at  the  foot  of  the  pyramidal 
structure,  is  a  small  stream,  part  of  which  supplies  dw 
aqueduct  before  referred  to.  Crossing  this,  we  come 
upon  a  broken  stone  terrace  about  sixty  feet  on  the 
slope,  with  a  level  esplanade  at  the  top,  one  hundred 
and  ten  feet  in  breadth,  from  which  rises  another  pyram- 
idal structure,  now  ruined  and  overgrown  with  trees; 
it  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet  high  on  the  slope, 
and  on  its  summit  is  the  building  marked  No.  2,  like 
tlie  first  shrouded  among  trees,  but  presented  in  the 
engraving  opposite  as  restored.  The  plate  contains,  a^ 
before,  the  ground-plan,  front  elevation,  section,  and 
front  elevation  on  a  smaller  scale,  with  the  pyramidal 
structure  on  which  it  stands. 

This  building  is  fifty  feet  front,  thirty-one  feet  deep, 
and  has  three  doorways.  The  whole  front  was  covered 
with  stuccoed  ornaments.  The  two  outer  piers  con- 
tain hieroglyphics ;  one  of  the  inner  piers  is  fallen,  and 


■■l 


k 


f^Vir»r?t3.  PALK.lqrT.  .  (■»»„,J,.V,.ai 


1 


n  oVy^.  PAIjn.Vqi'F,  .  ( mi.,d.-  Ii.  in 


^    " 


'*5^'fc 


V 


'     ;      ON      '  "K  t     B\ 


•)y     L       TA-  >,  i,  A      Ki       2 


r 


^i^ 


AKOE     T.IBLET.  S4S 


Ae  otb-'.r  is  ornamented  with  a  figure  in  bas*re)ief,  but 
faded  and  ruioed. 

The  interior,  again,  is  divided  into  two  corridors  riui- 
ning  len^hwifle,  with  ceilings  as  before,  and  jiavemenis 
of  large  square  stooes,  in  wbicli  forcible  breaches  hava 
been  made,  doubtless  by  Captain  Del  Rio,  and  e'.- 
vations  underneath.  The  back  corridor  is  divided  into 
three  aparlmenis,  and  opposite  the  principal  door  of 
eairance  is  an  oblong  enclosure,  with  a  heavy  cornice 
^moulding  of  stucco,  and  a  doorway  richly  oraameoN 
(he  top,  but  now  much  defaced ;  on  each  aide 
;  doorway  was  a  tablet  of  scalptured  stone,  which, 
Ter,  hfts  been  removed.  Within,  the  ciiamber  is 
en  feet  wide  and  seven  feet  deep.  There  was  no 
aon  of  light  except  from  the  door ;  the  sides  were 
Withoat  ornament  of  any  iiind,  and  in  th<?  back  wall^ 
covering  the  whole  width,  was  the  tablet  given  in  ih* 
engraving  opposite.  It  was  lea  feet  eight  inches  wide, 
six  feet  four  inches  in  height,  and  consisted  of  thre^'w 
Mparate  atones.  That  on  the  leO,  facing  the  speclaior, 
i*  still  in  its  place.  The  middle  one  has  been  removed 
aod  carried  down  the  side  of  the  struclure,  and  now  ties 
near  the  bank  of  the  stream.  It  was  removed  many 
years  ago  by  one  of  the  inhabiiiiJiis  of  the  village,  with 
the  [mention  of  carrying  it  to  his  house  ;  but,  after  great 
labour,  with  do  other  instrumenls  than  the  arms  and 
haods  of  Indians,  and  poles  cut  from  trees,  it  hnd  ad- 
vanced so  far,  when  its  removal  was  arrested  by  an 
"-■'"-  '—■■1  the  government  forbidding  any  farther  ab- 
■m  the  ruins.  Wo  found  it  tying  on  iie  bMck 
rinks  of  the  stream,  washed  by  many  Hoods 
(•I  the  fiuny  season,  and  covered  with  a  thick  coal  of 
dirt  and  moss.  We  had  it  scrubbed  and  propped  up, 
and  probably  the  next  travell'T  will  find  it  witta 
Vol.  n— X  X  M 


i 


L^ 


r^^'' 


346  iircxDBtrTS  or  tkatbl. 

fame  props  under  it  wUoh  we  placed  thc^e.  In  the 
engraving  it  is  given  in  its  original  position  on  the  walL 
The  stone  on  the  right  is  broken,  and,  nnfoitiuiatdy 
altogether  destroyed ;  most  of  the  fragments  have  di^ 
appeared ;  but,  from  the  few  we  found  among  the  ruins 
in  the  front  of  the  building,  there  is  no  doubt  that  it 
contained  ranges  of  hiero^yphics  corre^x>nding  in  gen- 
eral appearance  with  those  of  the  stone  on  the  left. 

The  tablet,  as  given  in  the  engraving,  contains  only 
two  thirds  of  the  original.  In  Del  Bio's  work  it  is  not 
represented  at  all.  In  Dupaix  it  is  given,  not,  however, 
as  it  exists,  but  as  made  up  by  the  artist  in  Paris,  so  as  to 
present  a  perfect  picture.  The  subject  is  reversed,  with 
the  cross  in  the  centre,  and  on  each  side  a  sin^  row 
of  hieroglyphics,  only  eight  in  number.  Probably,  when  • 
Dupaix  saw  it  (thirty-four  years  before),  it  waa  entirey 
but  the  important  features  of  six  rows  of  hierog^ypUes 
on  each  side  of  the  principal  figures,  each  row  coa* 
taining  seventeen  in  a  line,  do  not  appear.  This  is  the 
more  inexcusable  in  his  publishers,  as  in  his  Tepoxi 
Dupaix  expressly  refers  to  these  numerous  hieroglyph- 
ics ;  but  it  is  probable  that  his  report  was  not  accom* 
panicd  by  any  drawings  of  them. 

The  principal  subject  of  this  tablet  is  the  cross.  It 
is  surmounted  by  a  strange  bird,  and  loaded  with  in- 
describable ornaments.  The  two  figures  are  evidently 
those  of  important  personages.  They  are  well  drawn, 
and  in  symmetry  of  proportion  are  perhaps  equal  to 
many  that  are  carved  on  the  waUs  of  the  ruined  tem- 
ples in  Egypt.  Their  costume  is  in  a  style  differeot 
from  any  heretofore  given,  and  the  folds  would  seem 
to  indicate  that  they  were  of  a  soft  and  pliable  texture, 
like  cotton.  Both  are  looking  toward  the  crosB,  and 
one  seems  in  the  act  of  making  an  ofiering,  perhaps  oC 


Air/IQUAaiAX     C0VJBCTURE8.  847 

a  child;  all  specolatioxis  on  the  subject  are  of  course 
entitled  to  little  regard,  but  perhaps  it  would  not  be 
wrong  to  ascribe  to  these  personages  a  sacerdotal 
•haracter.  The  hieroglyphics  doubtless  explain  all. 
Near  them  are  other  hieroglyphics,  which  reminded  us 
of  the  Egyptian  mode  for  recording  the  name,  history, 
office,  or  character  of  the  persons  represented.  This 
tablet  of  the  cross  has  given  rise  to  more  learned  spec- 
idations  than  perhaps  any  others  found  at  Palenque« 
Ihipaix  and  his  commentators,  assuming  for  the  build- 
ing a  very  remote  antiquity,  or,  at  least,  a  period  long 
antecedent  to  the  Christian  era,  account  for  the  appear- 
ance of  the  cross  by  the  argiunent  that  it  was  knovm 
and  had  a  symbolical  meaning  among  ancient  nations 
long  before  it  was  established  as  the  emblem  of  the 
CSiristian  faith.  Our  friends  the  padres,  at  the  sight  of 
4t|  immediately  decided  that  the  old  inhabitants  of  Pa- 
liuique  were  Christians,  and  by  conclusions  which  are 
aometimes  caUed  jumping,  they  fixed  the  age  of  the 
buUdings  in  the  third  century. 

There  is  reason  to  believe  that  this  particular  build- 
ing was  intended  as  a  temple,  and  that  the  enclosed 
inner  chamber  was  an  adoratorio,  or  oratory,  or  altar. 
What  the  rites  and  ceremonies  of  worship  may  have 
been,  no  one  can  undertake  to  say. 

The  upper  part  of  this  building  differs  from  the  first. 
Am  before,  there  was  no  staircase  or  other  communica- 
tion inside  or  out,  nor  were  there  the  remains  of  any. 
The  only  mode  of  access  was,  in  like  manner,  by  climb- 
ing a  tree,  the  branches  of  which  spread  across  the  roof. 
The  roof  was  inclined,  and  the  sides  were  richly  orna- 
mented with  stucco  figures,  plants,  and  flowers,  but 
mostly  ruined.  Among  them  were  the  fragments  of  a 
beantifiil  head  and  of  two  ftodiesi  in  justness  of  propor- 


V 


,■"      -r 


?*  .. 


348  mciBiBTt  or  *ji>vsi. 

^  ■ 

tMHi  and  symmetry  i^^iMlcUBg  tbm^  Gxmek  niodelfl.  On 
the  top  of  this  roof  im  «  wtrow  jplatfonn,  sapportiog 
what,  for  the  sake  of  dasoripliQ^  I  ahaU  eall  two  storieai 
The  platform  ia  but  two  Isist  tan  inqhea  widep  and  tka 
superstraetura  of  .the  first  afeoaj ;  ja  ae?eii.  feat  five  inches 
in  height ;  that  ct  the  aeoood  eight  feet  five  inehesi  the 
width  of  the  two  being  the  same.  The  ascent  £rom  one 
to  the  other  is  by  square  projecting  atonea,  and  the  cov- 
ering of  the  upper  story  is  of  flat  atones  laid  acroas  and 
projectiiig  over.  The  long  aides  of  thia  narrow  strui^ 
ture  are  of  open  stucco  work,  formed  into  cunoua  and 
indescribable  devicea,  human  figyrea  with  legs  and  aims 
spreading  and  apertures  between  i  and  the  whole  waa 
once  loaded  with  rich  and  elegant  (Mrnaments  in  stnoco 
relief.  Its  appearance  at  a  distance  must  have  been 
that  of  a  high,  fencifiil  lattice.  Altogether,  like  the  reat 
of  the  architecture  and  ornaments,  it  was  perfectly 
unique,  different  from  the  works  of  any  other  people 
with  which  we  were  familiar,  and  its  uses  and  purposes 
entirely  incomprehensible.  Perhaps  it  was  intended  as 
an  observatory.  From  the  upper  gallery,  through  open- 
ings in  the  trees  growing  around,  we  looked  out  over 
an  immense  forest,  and  saw  the  Lake  of  Terminos  and 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Near  this  building  was  another  interesting  monument^ 
which  had  been  entirely  overlooked  by  those  who  prece- 
ded lis  in  a  visit  to  Palenque,  and  I  mention  tliis  feet  ia 
the  hope  that  the  next  visiter  may  discover  many  things 
omitted  by  us.  It  lies  in  front  of  the  building,  about 
forty  or  fifty  feet  down  the  side  of  the  pyramidal  struc- 
ture. When  we  first  passed  it  vrith  our  guide  it  lay  on 
its  face,  with  its  head  downward,  and  half  buried  by 
an  accumulation  of  earth  and  stones.  The  outer  side 
was  rough  and  unhewui  and  our  attention  waa  attract* 


4 


I  ■ 


ft 


■>  ^  ■■■ 


AltCOTBKT     OF    4    STATVl. 

•d  bf  Hs'Sm;  oar  gvidft  fdd  it  was  dot  soiilpitiiiv 

ed ;  but,  after  he  had  ahown  vs  ovetythiiig  that  he  bad 

knowiadge  oS^  aM<wa  had  dbaltoq^ed  Unit  ni  P^^saing  it 

agaia  we  iloppedaad  d^  aioimdit,  aad  diaoovered  that 

the  mnte  am^ca'WaBitJpBtvad    Tfaa  LidiiM  cot  down 

some  saplings  iior  IsTOrs,  aad  mUed  it  owr.    The  oppo^ 

sita  engrayiBg  represants  this  nonnment    It  is  the  onfy 

slatae  thathas  eveir  been  loondat  FUeniqaa.    We  xrere 

at  once  strock  with  its  expression  of  serene  repose  and 

ita  strong  resemUanee  to  Eg^rptian  statoes,  though  in 

siaa  it  doas  not  compare  with'die  gigantio  remains  of 

^STP^-     ^  height  it  is  ten  feet  six  indies,  of  which 

two  feet  six  inches  were  nndergronnd*.    The  headdress 

is  lofty  and  spreading ;  there  are  holes  in  the  place  of 

ears,  which  were  perhaps  adorned  with  earrings  of  gold 

and  pearls.     Bound  the  neck  is  a  necklace,  and  pressed 

against  the  breast  by  the  right  hand  is  an  instrument 

apparently  with  teeth.     The  left  hand  rests  on  a  hiero* 

glyphio,  from  which  descends  some  symbolical  orna** 

ment.     The  lower  part  of  the  dress  bears  an.  unfortu* 

nate  resemblance  to  the  modem  pantaloons,  but  the 

figure  stands  pn  what  we  have  always  considered  a 

liieroglyphic,  analogous  again  to  the  custom  in  Egypt 

of  recording  the  name  and  office  of  the  hero  or  other 

iparson  represented.     The  sides  are  rounded,  and  the 

iack  is  of  lough  stone.    Probably  it  stood  imbedded  in 

ai  wall. 

Frmn  the  foot  of  the  elevation  on  which  the  last- 
xnentioned  building  stands,  their  bases  almost  touching,  ^ 
^ises  another  pyramidal  structure  of  about  the  same 
height,  on  the  top  of  which  is  the  building  marked  No. 
S.  Such  is  the  density  of  the  forest,  even  on  the  sides 
of  the  pyramidal  structure,  that,  though  in  a  right  line 


;;• 


^    • 


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bntm  diurt  dVitanM 


"1: 


it  was 
htti  4krte 


mp0b^:  -»<vj 


..« 


•  • 


to 


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I'  N 


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P*.    I       W'l 


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■4 


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i 


t  V 


,  Ki,i,.  „r  ii...T  ..I'  Ai.:. 


A    CVSIOUS    1A4-KILIS9. 

The  interior,  agsiiii  is  divided  into  two  conridon, 
mboQt  nine  feet  wide  eachy  end  paved  with  stone.  The 
engraving  opposite  represents  the  firont  corridor,  with 
the  oeiling  rising  nearly  to  a  point,  and  eovered  at  the 
top  wi(h  a  layer  of  flat  stones.  In  several  places  on 
eaeh  tide  ore  holes,  which  are  found  also  in  all  the 
other,  conidors;  they  were  probably  used  to  support 
fokse  ton  soaflblding  while  the  building  was  in  process 
*f  eonetknii  and  had  never  been  filled  up.  At  the  ex- 
end,  out  Arough  the  wall,  is  one  of  the  windows 
lefeiied  to,  which  have  been  the  subject  of  spec- 
firom  analogy  to  the  letter  Tau. 
^^  Vhe  baok  corridor  is  divided  into  three  apartments. 
i»  the  eentra,  &oing  the  principal  door  of  entrance,  is 

dbamber  siitnilar  to  that  which  in  the  last 
we   have  called  an  oratory  or   ahar.     Its 
is  seen  in  the  engraving.      The  top  of  the 
was  gorgeous  with  stuccoed  ornaments,  and 
piers  at  each  side  were  stone  tablets  in  bas-re- 
HrfL    Within,  the  chamber  was  four  feet  seven  inches 
and  nine  feet  wide.      There  were  no  stuccoed 
or  paintings,  but  set  in  the  back  wall  was  a 
taUet  covering  the  whole  width  of  the  chamber, 
feet  wide  and  eight  feet  high. 

tablet  is  given  in  the  frontispiece  of  this  volume, 
I  beg  to  call  to  it  the  particular  attention  of  the 
V  es  the  most  perfect  and  most  interesting  menu- 
in  Falenque.  Neither  Del  Bio  nor  Dupaix  has 
aaj  drawing  of  it,  and  it  is  now  for  the  first  time 
to  the  public  It  is  composed  of  three  separ^ 
ate  atones,  the  joints  in  which  are  shown  by  the  blurred 
lines  in  the  engraving.  The  sculpture  is  perfect,  and 
the  characters  and  figures  stand  clear  and  distinct  on 
the  stone.    On  each  side  are  rows  of  hieroglyphioa. 

31 


IP    >       .    uiaftBBinMi  o«i 


They  wear.  th»i  MJiB^i  ijit'  lw<  ^  i»»  hoih  aesm 
vtaldng  oflMifik :  Baft^pimippg»«iMii  oa  die  b«li 
4if  humen  Wipljh,  me  aC«4«WiMiip(NrlB:UiMeif  byMl 
hands  Md  kiMlii.Md.4lie.ottb  aaMii  eraBhecl  to  ftm 
fMWid  by  tiie  neighttr> jBetwaMrihBi»|  at 4iie  fooMf 
tlie . tablet,  aw  t»ia<gBtr%mttfiyciwgi  liggeJ,  one  li» 
oiiig  himaelf  wUbUfcrigiit  hsMl  enihe  gfouad,  aad  wift 
the- left  8iqppovtHir«44aaoe  tidbhi^  *e*attitiida  a^ 
tkm'df  AofOlhea.'Bra.lhe  aawrn'  acaapt  tkait  they 
reTene  order.  Xhtf  taUa^akiD  ioala>i4KMi  Aek  beniad 
jMoki^'Wd  their^diatarted*ooafeteiiaiiMraML^  |Mrh«|l>  be 
oruiaMffltirtetpTtw^  ptfmgk  attd  antfatiog.  They 
hoOipdatl^d  Mtieopilvd^ikiBib  ^.^Upaa  thv  takka 
jittnnaifliaiMad,  thnappaa  cMtaoitiaairicUj 
oA,  and  auppoMiig  ^Hiitt  aaaaai  m  kidaooa  nwsk , 
indely  oxpasded,  ond  the  tongue  hanging  out. 
aeema  to  be  the  object  to  whioh  the  pfincipal 
Bte  making  offerings. 

The  pier  cm  each  side  of  the  doorway  contained  a 
stone  tablet,  with  figures  oarred  in  bas-relief,  which  ate 
represented  in  the  two  foUowing  engravingk  Theaa 
tablets,  however,  have  been  removed  from  their  plans 
to  the  village,  and  set  up  in  the  wall  of  a  house  aa  or- 
naments* They  were  the.  fiist  ofajeots  which  we  saw, 
and  the  last  which  Mr.  Catherwcxid  drew.  The  honsa 
belonged  to  two  sisters,  who  have  an  exaggerated  idea 
of  the  value  of  these  tablets;  and,  though  alvraya  plea» 
ed  with  our  coming  to  see  them,  made  objections  ta 
having  them  copied.  We  obtained  permiasion  only  by 
promising  a  copy  for  them  also,  iiriiich,  however,  Mr. 
Gatherwood,  worn  out  with  oonslant  labour,  waa  entire 
ly  uaabla  to  make.    I  out  out  of  Del  Bw's  book 


TABLETS  -AMD     F1GUKB8.  353 

diawingB  of  the  same  subjects,  which  I  thought,  being 
printed,  would  pleaae  them  better ;  but  they  had  exam- 
ined Mr.  Catherwood's  drawing  in  its  progress,  and 
were  not  at  all  satisfied  with  the  substitute.  The  mo- 
ment I  saw  these  tablets  I  formed  the  idea  of  purchas- 
ing them  and  carrying  them  home  as  a  sample  of  Pa- 
lenque,  but  it  was  some  time  before  I  ventured  to  broach 
the  subject.  They  could  not  be  purchased  without  the 
house;  but  that  was  no  impediment,  for  I  liked  the 
house  also.  It  was  afterward  included  among  the  sub- 
jects of  other  negotiations  which  were  undetermined 
when  I  left  Palenque. 

The  two  figures  stand  facing  each  other,  the  first  on 
the  right  hand,  fronting  the  spectator.  The  nose  and 
eyes  are  strongly  marked,  but  altogether  the  develop- 
ment is  not  so  strange  as  to  indicate  a  race  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  those  which  are  known.  The  headdress  is 
curious  and  complicated,  consisting  principally  of  leaves 
of  plants,  with  a  large  flower  hanging  down ;  and  among 
the  ornaments  are  distinguished  the  beak  and  eyes  of  a 
bird,  and  a  tortoise.  The  cloak  is  a  leopard's  skin,  and 
the  figure  has  ruffles  around  the  wrists  and  ancles. 

The  second  figure,  standing  on  the  left  of  the  speota* 
tor,  has  the  same  profile  which  characterizes  all  tho 
others  at  Palenque.  Its  headdress  is  composed  of  a 
plume  of  feathers,  in  which  is  a  bird  holding  a  fish 
in  its  mouth;  and  in  difierent  parts  of  the  headdresi 
there  are  three  other  fishes.  The  figure  wears  a  richly- 
embroidered  tippet,  and  a  broad  girdle,  with  the  head 
of  some  animal  in  firont,  sandals,  and  leggins :  the  right 
hand  is  extended  in  a  prayerful  or  deprecating  position, 
with  the  palm  outward.  Over  the  heads  of  these  mys- 
terious personages  are  three  cabalistic  hieroglyphics. 

We  considered  the  oratorio  or  altar  the  most  intaresti 

Vol.  XL— Y  v 


-T  *J  ■ 


SM  IVOIDBKTtf'Or    TSA 

ing  porlioii  of  die  raiBB  ef  Vwimiqm^ 
the  reader  may  mndenrtindl  k  in  aft 
opposite  m  preeeated,  wUeh  diows  dieliMC^^IV  tfie 
Uoations  of  the  doorway,  with  ita  hKifcarf  <tawpM*%  Ihi 
tablets  on  each  side ;  and  within  iIm  dodMifr  ii  esai 
the  large  tablet  on  the  back  of  ike  inoii^  mdk  lit 
reader  will  form  from  it  some  idea  of^ho'^HrfM^iasy  end  sf 
its  effect  upon  the  strangeri  ^te%  as  lie  cliiriba  xxp  te 
ruined  pyramidal  stniotiire^  on  the  direshold  of  the  desf 
this  scene  preseata  itselL  We  coold  not  but  regard  il 
as  a  holy  place,  dedicated  to  the  godS|  and  oonsecrated 
by  the  religious  obserranoes  of  a  lost  and  unkaowa 
people.  Cbrnpaiathelyi^lhe  hand  of  min  has  qpared  it, 
and  the  great  tabkti  sanriving  the  wreck  of  demenUi 
stands  perfect  asMl  entire.  Lanely»  deserted,  and  wtth^ 
out  any  worshippera  at  its  shtfinsi  the  fignrea  and  cfasr* 
acteiv  are  distinct  as  whan  Iha-  peopfe  who  reared  il 
went  up  to  pay  their  adorations  before  it.  To  us  it  was 
all  a  mystery ;  silent,  defying  the  nKist  scrutinizing  gaae 
and  reach  of  intellect.  Eyen  our  friends  the  padres 
could  make  nothing  of  it. 

Near  this,  on  the  top  of  another  pynunidal  structure^ 
was  another  building  entirely  in  ruins,  which  apparently 
bad  been  shattered  and  hurled  down  by  an  earthquake. 
The  stones  were  strewed  on  the  side  of  the  pyramid, 
and  it  was  impossible  even  to  make  onl  the  ground* 
plan. 

Betuming  to  No.  1  and  proceediag  south,  at  a  dis- 
tance of  fifteen  hundred  feet,  and  en  a  pyramidal  strae^ 
tare  one  hmidred  feet  high  firam  the  bank  of  the  riWf 
is  another  building,  marked  on  the  plan  No.  4,  tweatf 
feet  front  and  eighteen  feet  deep,  but  inan  vafbrtunsft^ 
ly  ruined  condition.  The  whole  of  the  front  waU  his 
liUeiii^  leaving  the  ooler  oomdor  enliaalf^  eiqpossd. 

¥         ■  ■ 


'9^ 


f 


PLAN     OF     N''^B4,CASA5      DE      PlEDRA      PALENQUE 


.^ 


^  *    ^ 


*       -i. 


^^i^ .— 


I 


\ 


■r       ^- 


t* 


V' 


'• .  ? 


t 


■e 


*"  ■  ■; ' 


•'.'?> 


■r 


BZTBNT     OF     THE     R  U I  N  »»  8U 

the  dooTi  and  against  the  back  wall  of  the 
inner  corridor,  was  a  large  stucco  ornament  represent^ 
ing  a  figure  sitting  on  a  couch ;  but  a  great  part  has 
fallen  or  been  taken  off  and  carried  away.  The  body 
of  the  couch,  with  tiger's  feet,  is  all  that  now  remains. 
The  outline  of  two  tigers'  heads  and  of  the  sitting  per- 
sonage is  seen  on  the  wall.  The  loss  or  destruction  of 
this  ornament  is  more  to  be  regretted,  as  from  what  re- 
mains it  appears  to  have  been  superior  in  execution  to 
any  other  stucco  relief  in  Palenque.  The  body  of  the 
couch  is  entire,  and  the  leg  and  foot  hanging  down  the 
aide  are  elegant  specimens  of  art  and  models  for  study. 
The  plate  opposite  represents  this  relief,  and  also  a 
plan,  section,  and  general  view  of  the  building. 

I  have  now  given,  without  speculation  or  comment^ 
a  full  description  of  the  ruins  of  Palenque.  I  repeat 
what  I  stated  in  the  beginning,  there  may  be  more 
bnildings,  but,  after  a  close  examination  of  the  vague 
reports  current  in  the  village,  we  are  satisfied  that  no 
more  have  ever  been  discovered ;  and  from  repeated  in- 
quries  of  Indians  who  had  traversed  the  forest  in  every 
direction  in  the  dry  season,  we  are  induced  to  believe 
that  no  more  exist.  The  whole  extent  of  ground  cov- 
ered by  those  as  yet  known,  as  appears  by  the  plan,  is 
not  larger  than  our  Park  or  Battery.  In  stating  thi» 
fact  I  am  very  far  from  wishing  to  detract  from  the  im» 
pcHTtance  or  interest  of  the  subject.  I  give  our  opinion,, 
with  the  grounds  of  it,  and  the  reader  will  judge  for 
himself  how  far  these  are  entitled  to  consideration. 
It  is  proper  to  add,  however,  that,  considering  the  space 
now  occupied  by  the  ruins  as  the  site  of  palaces,  tem- 
ples, and  public  buildings,  and  supposing  the  houses  of 
the  inhabitants  to  have  been,  like  those  of  the  Egyptians 
and  the  present  race  of  Indians,  of  frail  and  peridiable 


d56  IVCIDBNT8    OF    TRATEC 

materials,  and,  as  at  Memphis  and  Thebes,  to  haye  di»» 
appeared  altogether,  the  city  may  have  coyered  an  im- 
mense extent. 

The  reader  is  perhaps  disappointed,  but  we  were  not. 
There  "was  no  necessity  for  assigning  to  the  rained  city 
an  immense  extent,  or  an  antiquity  coeval  with  that  of 
the  Egyptians  or  of  any  other  ancient  and  known  peo* 
pie.  What  we  had  before  our  eyes  was  grand,  curious^ 
and  remarkable  enough.  Here  were  the  remains  of  a 
cultivated,  polished,  and  peculiar  people,  who  had  passed 
through  all  the  stages  incident  to  the  rise  and  fiall  of  na- 
tions ;  reached  their  golden  age,  and  perished,  entirely 
unkno^vn.  The  links  which  connected  them  with  the 
human  family  were  severed  and  lost,  and  these  were 
the  only  memorials  of  their  footsteps  upon  earth.  We 
lived  in  the  ruined  palace  of  their  kings ;  we  went  up 
to  their  desolate  temples  and  fallen  altars ;  and  wher^ 
ever  we  moved  we  saw  the  evidences  of  their  taste, 
their  skill  in  arts,  their  wealth  and  power.  In  the  midst 
of  desolation  and  ruin  we  looked  back  to  the  past, 
cleared  away  the  gloomy  forest,  and  fancied  every 
building  perfect,  ^\'ith  its  terraces  and  pyramids,  its 
sculptured  and  painted  ornaments,  grand,  lofty,  and 
imposing,  and  overlooking  an  immense  inhabited  plain ; 
we  called  back  into  life  the  strange  people  who  gazed 
at  us  in  sadness  from  the  walls ;  pictured  them,  in  fanci- 
ful costumes  and  adorned  with  plumes  of  feathers,  as- 
cending the  terraces  of  the  palace  and  the  steps  lead- 
ing to  the  temples ;  and  often  we  imagined  a  scene  of 
unique  and  gorgeous  beauty  and  magnificence,  reali- 
zing the  creations  of  Oriental  poets,  the  very  spot  which 
fancy  would  have  selected  for  the  "  Happy  Valley"  oi 
Rasselas.  In  the  romance  of  the  world's  history  no- 
thing ever  impressed  me  more  forcibly  than  the  speetSp 


AirriQirtTT  of  pa&bhqvi.  M7 

ole  of  this  once  great  and  lovely  city,  overturned,  dM- 
olate,  and  loet ;  discovered  by  accident,  overgrown  with 
trees  for  miles  around,  and  without  even  a  name  to  dis- 
tingniBh  it.  Apart  firom  everything  else,  it  was  a  moum-^ 
ing  witness  to  the  world's  mutations. 

««NttMMUIIMlt 

FhMn  Powers  high  pfamade,  when  thay  hvr9  felt 
Tb0  wmhine  for  «  whiloi  and  dowmwwd  go." 

As  at  Copan,  I  shall  not  at  present  offer  any  conjiec- 
ture  in  regard  to  the  antiquity  of  these  buildings,  merely 
remarking  that  at  ten  leagues'  distance  is  a  village  cal- 
led Las  Tree  Cruces  or  the  Three  Crosses,  from  three 
crosses  which,  according  to  tradition,  Cortez  erected  at 
that  place  when  on  his  conquering  march  from  Mexico 
to  Honduras  by  the  Lake  of  Peten.  Cortez,  then,  must 
have  passed  within  twenty  or  thirty  miles  of  the  place 
now  called  Falenque.  If  it  had  been  a  living  city,  its 
Came  must  have  reached  his  ears,  and  he  would  proba- 
bly have  turned  aside  from  his  road  to  subdue  and  plun- 
der it.  It  seems,  therefore,  but  reasonable  to  suppose 
that  it  was  at  that  time  desolate  and  in  ruins,  and  eveo 
Ihe  memory  of  it  lost. 


368  IHCIDBUrB    OP    TBATIb 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Departure  from  the  Roioi.— Bad  Road.— Ad  Aecidant— ArriTal  at  the  TiUa|t 
—A  Funeral  ProceesUm.— Negotiationa  for  Purehaaiiic  Palanqoe.— Makiof 
Caats.— Final  Departure  from  Palanque.— Beanttfal  Plaiii.*-Han8inc  Birds'- 
BMta.— A  Sitio.— Adventure  with  a  nonatroui  Ape.— Hoapitalitjr  uf  Padrec^ 
Laa  Playaa.— A  Tempest.— MoMheloea.— A  Yoattiful  MaichaoL^AUigmion. 
—Another  Faoera].— Diagusting  CeremOBialaL  ^ 

Among  the  Indians  who  came  out  to  escort  us  to  the 
Tillage  was  one  whom  we  had  not  seen  before,  and 
whose  face  bote  a  striking  resemblance  to  those  de- 
lineated on  the  walls  of  the  buildings.  In  general  the 
feces  of  the  Indians  were  of  an  entirely  different  char- 
acter,  but  he  might  have  been  taken  for  a  lineal  de> 
scendant  of  the  perished  race.  The  resemblance  was 
perhaps  purely  accidental,  but  we  were  anxious  to  pro* 
cure  his  portrait.  He  was,  however,  very  shy,  and  un- 
willing to  be  drawn.  Mr.  Catherwood,  too,  was  worn 
out,  and  in  the  confusion  of  removing  we  postponed  it 
upon  his  promising  to  come  to  us  at  the  village,  but 
we  could  not  s^ri  hold  of  him  again. 

We  left  behind  our  kitchen  furniture,  consisting  of 
the  three  &ton(»s  which  Juan  pirt  together  the  first  day 
of  our  re.'^idence,  vessels  of  pottery  and  calabashes,  and 
also  our  beds,  for  the  benefit  of  the  next  comer.  Ev- 
erything  sifcs,,t-piible  of  injury  from  damp  was  rusty  or 
mouldy,  and  in  a  ruinous  condition;  we  ourselves 
were  not  much  better ;  and  with  the  clothes  on  our 
backs  far  from  dry,  we  bade  farewell  to  the  ruins.  We 
were  happy  when  we  reached  them,  but  our  joy  at 
leaving  them  burst  the  bounds  of  discretion,  and  broke 
out  into  extravagances  poetical,  which,  however,  fortu- 


AN  ACCIBBNT  OH  TUM    KOAP.       859 

Ufttely  for  the  readeri  did  not  advance  nmch  beyond 
the  flnt  line: 


The  road  was  worse  than  at  any  time  before;  the 
streams  were  swollen  into  rivers,  and  along  the  banks 
were  steep,  narrow  gullies,  very  difficult  to  pass*  At 
<Hie  of  these,  after  attempting  to  ascend  with  my  macho, 
I  dismounted.  Mr.  Catherwood  was  so  weak  that  he 
remained  on  the  back  of  his  mule;  and  after  he  had 
crossed,  just  as  he  reached  the  top,  the  mule's  strength 
gave  way,  and  she  fell  backward,  rolling  over  in  the 
stream  with  Mr.  Catherwood  entirely  under.  Pawling 
was  behind,  and  at  that  time  in  the  stream.  He  sprang 
off  and  extricated  Mr.  Catherwood,  unhurt,  but  very 
fiunty  and,  as  he  was  obliged  to  ride  in  his  wet  clothes, 
we   had  great  apprehenBions  for  him.     At  length  we 

reached  the  village,  when,  exhausted  by  hard  and  unin- 
tennitted  labour,  he  gave  up  completely,  and  took  to 
bed  and  the  medicine-chest.  In  the  evening  nearly  all 
my  friends  of  the  dinner-party  came  to  see  us.  That 
one  day  had  established  an  intimacy.  All  regretted  that 
we  had  had  such  an  unfortunate  time  at  the  ruins,  won- 
dered how  we  had  lived  through  it,  and  were  most  kind 
in  offers  of  services.  The  padre  remained  after  the 
rest,  and  went  home  with  a  lantern  in  the  midst  of  one 
of  those  dreadful  storms  which  had  almost  terrified  ns 
at  the  ruins. 

The  next  day  again  was  Sunday.  It  was  my  third 
Bonday  in  the  village,  and  again  it  was  emphatically  a 
day  of  rest.  In  the  afternoon  a  mournful  interruption 
was  ^ven  to  the  stillness  of  the  place  by  the  funeral  of 
a  young  Indian  girl,  once  the  pride  an4  beauty  of  the 
village,  whose  portrait  Mr.  Waldeck  hlid  taken  to  em* 


360  JNC19BKTB    or    TRATBKi. 

bellish  his  intended  wotk  on  Palenqae.  Her  oaKCTiW 
often  happens  with  beauty  in  higher  life,  was  ahorti  trilk 
iant,  and  unhappy.  She  had  married  a  young  Indian, 
who  abandoned  her  ajKl  went  to  another  Tillage.  Ig- 
norant, innocent,  and  unconscious  of  wrong,  she  was 
persuaded  to  marry  another,  drooped,  and  died.  Tha 
funeral  procession  passed  our  door.  The  corpse  was 
borne  on  a  rude  bier,  without  coffin,  in  a  white  oottoa 
dress,  with  a  shawl  over  the  head,  and  followed  by  a 
slender  procession  of  women  and  children  only.  I 
walked  beside  it,  and  heard  one  of  them  say,  **  boeno 
Christiano,  to  attend  the  funeral  of  a  poor  woman.'' 
The  bier  was  set  down  beside  the  grave,  and  in  lifting 
the  body  from  it  the  head  turned  on  one  side,  and  ths 
hands  dropped ;  the  grave  was  too  short,  and  as  the 
dead  was  laid  within  the  legs  were  drawn  up.  "SUt 
face  was  thin  and  wasted,  but  the  mouth  had  a  sweet- 
ness of  expression  which  seemed  to  express  that  she 
had  died  with  a  smile  of  forgiveness  for  him  who  had 
injured  her.  I  could  not  turn  my  eyes  from  her  placid 
but  grief-worn  countenance,  and  so  touching  was  its 
expression  that  I  could  almost  have  shed  tears.  Young, 
beautiful,  simple,  and  innocent,  abandoned  and  dead, 
with  not  a  mourner  at  her  grave.  All  seemed  to  think 
that  she  was  better  dead :  she  was  poor,  and  could  not 
maintain  herself.  The  men  went  away,  and  the  women 
and  children  with  their  hands  scraped  the  earth  upon 
the  body.  It  was  covered  up  gradually  and  slowly; 
the  feet  stuck  out,  and  then  all  was  buried  but  the  face. 
A  small  piece  of  muddy  earth  fell  upon  one  of  the  eyes, 
and  another  on  her  sweetly  smiling  mouth,  changing 
the  whole  expression  in  a  moment;  death  was  now 
robed  with  terror.  The  women  stopped  to  commeot 
upon  the  change ;  the  dirt  fell  so  as  to  cover  the  whole 


PUBCaASlNO     PALBJCQUB.  861 

face  except  the  ndsoi  and  for  two  or  three  moments 
tUi  alone  was  visible.  Another  brush  covered  this, 
and  the  girl  was  buried.  The  reader  will  excuse  me, 
I  am  sorry  to  say  that  if  she  had  been  ugly,  I  shouldy 
psrlu^ps,  have  regarded  it  as  an  every-day  case  of  a 
Mglected  by  her  husband ;  but  her  sweet  face 
bom  the  grave  created  an  impression  which  even  yet  is 
hardly  eflhoed. 

But  to  return  to  things  more  in  my  line.  We  had 
another  long  journey  before  us.  Our  next  move  was 
far  Yucatan.  From  Mr.  Catherwood's  condition  I  had 
0reat  fear  that  we  would  not  be  able  to  accomplish  what 
we  purposed ;  but,  at  all  events,  it  was  necessary  to  go 
down  to  the  seacoast.  There  ^ere  two  routesi  either 
]ij'  Tobasco  or  the  Laguna,  to  Campeacby,  and  war 
again  confronted  us.  Both  Tobasco  and  Campeacby 
were  besieged  by  the  Liberals,  or^  as  they  were  called, 
the  Revolutionists.  The  former  route  required  three 
days'  journey  by  land,  the  latter  one  short  day ;  and  as 
Mr*  C.  was  not  able  to  ride,  this  determined  us.  In  the 
mean  time,  while  waiting  for  his  recovery,  and  so  as  not 
to  rust  and  be  utterly  useless  when  I  returned  home,  I 
started  another  operation,  viz.,  the  purchase  of  the 
eity  of  Palenque.  I  am  bound  to  say,  however,  that  I 
was  not  bold  enough  to  originate  this,  but  fell  into  it  ao- 
eidentally,  in  a  long  conversation  with  the  prefect  about 
ihe  richness  of  the  soil,  the  cheapness  of  land,  its  vicin- 
ity' to  the  seaboard  and  the  United  States,  and  easy 
communication  with  New- York.  He  told  me  that  a 
merchant  of  Tobasco,  who  had  visited  the  place,  had 
|iroposed  to  purchase  a  tract  of  land  and  establish  a  col- 
ony of  emigrants,  but  he  had  gone  away  and  never  re- 
turned. He  added,  that  for  two  years  a  government 
order  from  the  State  of  Chiapas,  to  which  the  region 

Vol.  U.— Z  x 


S69  t  M  C  1  9 


belonged,  had  been  lying  ill  hift  bands  for  the  aak  of  all 
land  in  the  vicinity  lying  within  certain  limitB ;  bat  than 
were  no  purchaaenii  and  no  sales  were  ever  nadsv 
Upon  inquiry  I  learned  that  this  order,  in  its  tsms^ 
embraced  the  ground  oocnpied  by  the  ruined  eity.  Mo 
exception  whatever  was  made  in  fitvonr  of  it.  Ha 
showed  me  the  order,  which  was  imperative ;  and  ha 
said  that  if  any  exception  was  intended,  it  vraald  ham 
been  so  expressed;  wherefore  he  considered  hinself 
bound  to  receive  an  offer  for  any  portion  of  the  land. 
The  sale  was  directed  to  be  by  appraiBement,  the  appli* 
cant  to  name  one  man,  the  prefect  another,  and,  if  aa» 
cessary,  they  two  to  name  a  third;  and  the  aiqplioatioaii 
with  the  price  fixed  ancL  the  boundaries,  was  to  be  asii' 
to  Cindad  Real  for  the  approval  of  the  governor  and  a 
deed. 

The  tract  containing  the  ruins  consisted  of  abom  six 
thousand  acres  of  good  land,  which,  according  to  the 
usual  appraisement,  would  cost  about  fifteen  hundred 
dollars,  and  the  prefect  said  that  it  would  not  be  valued 
%  cent  higher  on  account  of  the  ruins.  I  resolved  im* 
mediately  to  buy  it.  I  would  fit  up  the  palace  and  re- 
people  the  old  city  of  Palenque.  But  there  was  one 
difficulty :  by  the  laws  of  Mexico  no  stranger  can  pur* 
chase  lands  unless  married  to  a  hija  del  pais,  or  daugh- 
ter of  the  country.  This,  by-the-way,  is  a  grand  stroke 
of  policy,  holding  up  the  most  powerful  attraction  of 
the  country  to  seduce  men  from  their  natural  alle- 
giance, and  radicate  them  in  the  soil ;  and  it  ia  taking 
them  where  weak  and  vulnerable ;  for,  when  wander- 
ing in  strange  countries,  alone  and  friendless,  buffeted 
and  battered,  with  no  one  to  care  for  him,  there  are 
moments  when  a  lovely  woman  might  root  the  stranger 
to  any  spot  on  earth.     On  principle  I  always 


A»    EVJIAKRASSINO    6ASB.  MIt 

■Bch  tendendeBy  but  I  never  before  found  it  to  my  in^ 
Iseet  to  give  way.  The  mined  oity  of  Palenqne  wee  a 
jBnt  deeirable  piece  of  property. 

:  The  ease  was  embarrassing  and  oomplicated.    Sooir 
^  in  Fdenque  was  small;  the  oldest  young  lady  was 
ttot  more  than  fourteen,  and  the  prettiest  woman,  who 
•beady  had  contributed  most  to  our  happiness  (she 
ttade  ooc  cigars),  was  already  manied.    The  house 
•ontiiimng  the  two  tablets  belonged  to  a  widow  lady 
amd  a  angle  sister,  good-looking,  amiable,  and  both 
dMWt  forty.     The  house  was  one  of  the  neatest  in  the 
place.      I  always  liked  to  visit   it,  and  had  before 
llyraght  that,  if  passing  a  year  at  the  ruins,  it  would 
Ipft^  deUghtfol  to  have  this  house  in  the  village  for  reo<* 
mmSaa  and  occasional  visits.     With  either  of  these  lap 
di*9  would  come  possession  of  the  house  and  the  two 
atana  tablets ;  but  the  difficulty  was  that  there  were  two 
d'  diemy  both  equally  interesting  and  equally  interest- 
ed^   I  am  particular  in  mentioning  these  little  circum- 
silaBoes,  to  show  the  difficulties  that  attended  every  step 
of  our  enterprise  in  that  country.     There  was  an  alter- 
native, and  that  was  to  purchase  in  the  name  of  some 
ptfaar  person ;  but  I  did  not  know  any  on  A  could  trust 
iLt  length,  however,  I  hit  upon  Mr.  Russell,  the  Ameri- 
esa.  consul  at  Laguna,  who  was  married  to  a  Spanish 
Ifldyi  and  already  had  large  possessions  in  the  country ; 
and  I  arranged  with  the  prefect  to  make  the  purchase  in 
Ua  name.    Pawling  was  to  accompany  me  to  the  Lagi»* 
nay  for  the  purpose  of  procuring  and  carrying  back  evi- 
denoe  of  Bfr.  Russell's  co-operation  and  the  necessary 
fnndsy  and  was  to  act  as  my  agent  in  completing  the 
ppvehase.    The  prefect  was  personally  anxious  to  com- 
IJlate;  it    The  buildings,  he  said,  were  fost  going  to  de- 
ofjijf  and  in  a  few  years  more  would  be  moonds  of  m* 

32 


9R  Tifoi9«Wi  o«  «4Nkta%i. 

JBB.  Ih  thftt  cooiitry  ui0y  iiW6  Acft  #p|itMliMl*te 
flMBtood,  find  he  liud  ike  libeNl  wuAi  Am  die 
of  hieroglyphics  partieidiuiy  utigbt  find  dMiir  %iy  l» 
iMhesr  countirieS|  -be '  itnpeoted  ttid  ettfdied  \ty  -eoUidfie 
weti,  Bud  tbeir  dn^ii  dttd  hletwy  be  'MMBtelMcilL  '  S^ 
eideS)  he  hed  en  jdeii  thiit  ililuiuMto'llliiiu  fttlee  '^Mflfe  Ml 
to  be  nmde  and  tteasnree  fbund,  and  fte  ifofei  irttidfiift 
fyt  'a  thorough  'el^oonitidiii  ^  "v^Mtih  he  idiooHl  UhnK 
eo-operate.  The  two  tablets  Whkfh  I  had  'enmiqued  Wb 
t>nrchase  were  highly  prised  liy  the  oiwtteie^  1M  ttt 
thought  they  could  be  eecllred'by  pliMhasing  ttie 
feind  I  authorised  him  to  hvty  it  et  a  fited  {Ariee. 

Ia  my  many  conyersations  with  the  prafSect  X 
btbached  the  subject  of  meking  cto'ts  fh^ifi  th'e 
Like  eveiy  othet  official  whote  I  Wet,  he  IdpjpeMAHhM 
I  Was  acting  under  a  commission  "from  tty  gttMTiUaM, 
which  idea  was  sustained  by  having  in  itay  etiiplby  aVHife 
of  such  character  and  appearance  as  Pawling,  tfaonf^ 
every  time  I  put  my  hand  in  my  pocket  I  had  a  feeliMg 
sense  that  the  case  was  far  otherwise.  In  the  msitter  of 
casts  he  offered  every  assistance,  but  there  was  no  plan- 
ter of  Paris  nearer  than  the  Laguna  or  Carapeachy,iind 
perhaps  not  mere.  We  had  made  an  experiment  at  the 
ruins  by  catching  in  the  river  a  large  quantity  of  anaib 
and  burning  the  shells,  but  it  did  not  answer.  He  re- 
ferred us  to  some  limestone  in  the  neighbourhood,  but 
this  would  not  do.  Pawling  knew  nothing  of  easting. 
The  idea  had  never  entered  his  mind  before,  bnt  he 
was  willing  to  undertake  this.  Mr.  Catherwood,  who 
had  been  shut  up  in  Athens  during  the  Ghreek  Bevohi- 
tion,  when  it  was  besieged  by  the  Turks,  and  in  pum- 
ing  his  artistical  studies  had  perforce  made  castingi 
With  his  own  hands,  gave  him  written  instrnctions,  and 
it  was  agreed  that  when  he  returned  with  the  credea- 


lafe  froiBL  Mv.  Runell  he  thonkl  bring  l^ck  piaster  ol 
AmbUi,  aody  while  the  proceediAgB  finr  eoD^ting  the 
ppiiiliunn  weie  peudiog,  shoi^d  occupy  himself  in  this 
upw  fannch  of  bmuBeae. 

.  Qn  the  foiurth  of  June  we  look  onr  final  depavtme 
Iwa  Palenque.  I>on  Santiago  sent  me  a  ferewell  lei? 
teVy'  eoclosingy  aoeording  to  the  custom  of  the  oountryi 
%  piQee  of  silk,  the  meaning  of  which  I  did  not  uih 
dewitandi  but  learned  that  it  was  meant  as  a  pledge  o£ 
ipeodship,  which  I  reciprocated  with  a  penknife.  Tha 
fefect  was  kind  and  courteous  to  the  last ;  even  the  old 
nbmlde,  drawing  a  little  daily  revenue  from  us,  was 
tiprfhed  Every  male  inhabitant  came  to  the  house  la 
IMm  farewell  and  wish  us  to  return;  and  before  starts 
Hy-^^pe.rode  round  and  exchanged  adios  with  all  their' 
n^bwi  good^  kind,  and  quiet  people,  firee  from  all  agi-. 
Ufirng  eares,  and  aiming  only  at  an  undisturbed  exiaU 
^iMtin  a  place  which  I  had  been  induced  to  belieya 
Ihi.  abode  of  saTages  and  full  of  danger.  .v  .f;^.  .  ^'V- 

.jo  Oder  to  accompany  us,  the  cura  had  postpone^ 
fw  two  days  a  visit  to  lus  hacienda,  which  lay  on  our 
vfMd.  Bawling  continued  with  us  for  the  purpose  be* 
fare  inisBtianed,  and  Juan  according  to  contract.  I  had 
ngrnrd  to  return  him  to  Guatimala,  Completely  among 
smog!Bn)  he  was  absolutely  in  our  power,  and  follow* 
md  blindly,  but  with  great  misgivings  asked  the  padra 
where  we  were  taking  him.  His  impression  was  that 
setting  out  for  my  country,  and  be  had  but  Uttki 
of  ever  seeing  Guatimala  again. 
'From. the  village  we  entered  immediately  upon  a 
huantifal  plain,  picturesque,  ornamented  with  trees,  and 
^tf^r»dHg  five  or  six  days'  journey  to  the  Ghilf  of  Ifesr 
iiMk  The  road  was  very  muddy,  but,  open  to  the  ami 
imUm  lamming,  was  not  ao  bad  m  we  fearedt  /^  ibi 


.< .  '.■  ■? 


IHOiOBITTi  ^r    T&ATSL. 

borders  of  a  piece  of  woodland  ware  amgiihr  trees, 
with  a  tall  trunk,  the  bark  Yery  sntooth,  and  the  hnneh* 
es  festooned  with  hanging  birds'-nests.  The  Urd  was 
called  the  jagua,  and  built  in  this  tree,  aa  the  padie  told 
ii8|  to  prevent  serpents  from  getting  at  the  yooog.  The 
cura,  notwithstanding  his  strange  figure,  aod  a  life,  of 
incident  and  danger,  was  almost  a  woman  in  voies^ 
manner,  tastes,  and  feelings.  He  had  been  educated 
at  the  capital,  and  sent  as  a  penance  to  this  retired  eih 
rsicy.  The  visit  of  the  padres  had  for  the  first  time 
broken  the  monotony  of  his  life.  In  the  political  eon- 
vulsions  of  the  capital  he  had  made  himself  obaaadoas 
to  the  church  government  by  his  liberal  Qpiniona ;  bvt 
unable,  as  he  said,  to  find  in  him  any  tangible  offsBes^ 
his  superiors  had  called  him  up  on  a  charge  of  poUntiag 
the  surplice,  founded  on  the  circumstance  thai,  in  the 
time  of  the  cholera,  when  his  fellow-crealurea  were  fy» 
ing  all  around  him  in  the  agonies  of  death,  in  leaning 
over  their  bodies  to  administer  the  sacrament,  hia  sur- 
plice had  been  soiled  by  saliva  from  the  mouth  of  a 
dying  man.  For  this  he  was  condemned  to  penance 
and  prayers,  from  midnight  till  daybreak,  for  two  years 
in  the  Cathedral,  deprived  of  a  good  curacy,  and  sent  to 
Palenque. 

At  half  past  two  we  reached  his  sitio  or  small  haci- 
enda. In  the  apprehension  of  the  afternoon's  rain,  we 
would  have  continued  to  the  end  of  our  aftemocm's 
journey ;  but  the  padre  watched  carefully  the  appear- 
ance of  the  sky,  and,  after  satisfying  himself  that  the 
rain  would  not  come  on  till  late,  positively  forbade  our 
passing  on.  His  sitio  was  what  would  be  called  at 
home  a  *'  new"  place,  being  a  tract  of  wild  land  of  I  do 
not  know  what  extent,  but  some  large  quantity,  which 
bad  cost  him  twenty-five  dollars,  and  about  as  much 


^^  ADTKNTURB     WITH     AN     APE.  SOB 

more  to  make  the  improvpinenis,  wliicli  cou^aled  of  • 
hot  made  of  poles  and  thatched  with  cora-husks,  andw  I 
ooaina    or     kiichco  M  a  iittU  distance.     The  stnblte  ) 
and  outhouses  were  a  clearing  bounded  by  a  forest  t 
Ihick  that  caiile  coutd  not  penetrate  it,  and  on  the  roa^  J 
side  by  a  rude  fence.     Altogether,  in  that  mild  climatoi 
ifae  eiTecl  was  good ;   and  it  was  one  of  those  ocelli  | 
sions  which   make  o  man  feel,  away  from  the  regiol 
of  fictitious  wants,  how  little  is  necessary  for  the  com* 
(orta   of  life.     The   furnitnre  of  the  hul   consisted  (4*  I 
tvo  reed  bedsteads,  a  table,  and  a  bench,  and  in  od 
c<wner  was  a  pile  of  corn.     The  cura  sent  out  for  halfi  I 
ft  dozen  fresh  pineapples;  and  while  we  were  refresli^, 
ing  ourselves  with  them   we  heard  an  extraordinai^l 
nCHse  in  the  woods,  which  an  Indian  boy  told  us  wiftjl 
made  by  "un  animal."     Pawling  and  I  took  our  gamtf. 
uid  entering  a  path   in   the  woods,  as  we  advanced 
tli£  noise  sounded  [parful,  but  all  at  once  it  slopped. 
The  boy  opened  a  way  through  thickets  of  brush  end 
underwood,  and  through  en  opening  In  the  branches  I 
saw  on  the  limbs  of  a  high  tree  a  large  black  animal 
wilh  fiery  eyes.     The  boy  said  it  was  not  a  mico  ox 
moakey,  and  I  supposed  it  to  be  a  catamount.     I  bad 
bitrely  an  opening  through  which  to  take  aim,  fired,  and 
the  animal  dropped  below  the  range  of  view ;  but,  not 
bearing  him  strike  the  ground,  I  looked  again,  and  saw 
him   hanging  by  bis   tail,   and  dead,  with   the   blood 
•treaaiing  from  his  mouth.     Pawliug  attempted  to  climb 
the  tree ;  but  it  was  fifty  feel  to  the  first  branch,  and  the 
blood  trickled  down  the  trunk.     Wishing  to  examine 
the  creature  more  closely,  we  sent  the  boy  to  the  house, 
whence  he  returned  with  a  couple  of  Indians.     They 
cut  down  the  tree,  which  fell  with  a  terrible  crash,  and 
still  the  animal  bung  by  its  tail.     The  ball  had  hit  tuin 


ivcisBiTTt  or  rmA^iL. 

in  the  month  and  knoeked-  oat  the  five  teetb^ 
out  at  the  top  of  his  back  between  his  ehoaUen^  mad 
liiiiflt  have  kHled  hun  imMantly.  The  tenaeity  of  his 
tail  seemed  marveUoas,  bnt  was  easHy  explajnecl.  It 
had  no  grip,  and  had  lost  all  musonkr  power,  bait  was 
wound  round  the  branch  with  the  end  mder,  so  thai 
the  weight  of  the  body  tightened  ibe  ooil|  and  the  hard- 
er the  strain,  the  m(»e  secure  was  the  hold.  It  was  not 
a  monkey,  but  so  near  a  connexion  that  I  would  not 
have  shot  him  if  I  had  known  it  In  ftct,  he  was  even 
mcMre  nearly  related  to  die  human  funily,  being  oaUsd 
a  monos  or  ape,  and  measured  six  feet  imdnding  the 
tail ;  very  muscular,  and  in  a  struggle  would  have  been 
more  than  a  match  for  a  man ;  aild  the  padre  said  Asy 
were  known  to  have  attacked  women.  The  ^^Aimmm 
carried  him  up  to  the  house  and  ridnned  Uoi;  and 
when  lying  on  bis  back,  with  his  sUn  off  and  Us  Sgpes 
staring,  the  padre  cried  out,  "  es  bombre,"  it  is  a  maoi 
and  I  almost  felt  liable  to  an  indictment  for  homicide. 
The  Indians  cooked  the  body,  and  I  contrived  to  pre* 
serve  the  skin  as  a  curiosity,,  for  its  extraordinary  size ; 
but,  unluckily,  I  left  it  on  board  a  Spanish  vessel  at  sea. 
In  the  mean  time  the  padre  had  a  fowl  boiled  for  din^ 
ner.  Three  guests  at  a  time  were  not  too  much  for 
his  open  hospitality^  but  they  went  beyond  his  dinner* 
service,  which  consisted  of  three  bowls.  There  was  no 
plate,  knife,  fork,  or  spoon,  and  for  the  eura  himself 
not  even  a  bowl.  The  fowl  was  served  in  an  ocean  of 
broth,  which  had  to  be  disposed  of  first.  Tortillas  and 
a  small  cake  of  fresh  cheese  composed  the  rest  of  the 
meal.  The  reader  will  perhaps  connect  such  an  en* 
tertainment  with  vulgarity  of  manners ;  but  the  curate 
was  a  gentleman,  and  made  no  apologies,  for  he  gave 
us  the  best  he  had.     We  had  sent  our  carriers  on  be- 


ir. 


fore,  ihe  padre  gave  us  a  servant  as  a  guide,  and  at 
tbree  o'clock  we  bade  him  farewell.  He  was  ihe  last 
padre  whom  we  mel,  and  put  a  seal  upon  the  kindness 
we  had  received  from  all  the  padres  of  that  country. 
At  five  o'clock,  by  a  muddy  road,  through  a  pictu- 
reeqoe  country,  remarkable  only  for  swarms  of  bmterflies 
■with  large  yellow  wing?  which  filled  the  air,  we  reached 
Lu  Playas.  This  village  is  ihe  head  of  navigation  of  the 
waters  that  empty  in  this  direction  into  the  Gulf  of  Mex- 
ico. The  whole  of  the  great  plain  to  the  sea  is  intersect- 
ed by  creeks  and  rivers,  some  of  them  in  the  summer  dry, 
and  on  the  rising  of  the  waters  overflowing  their  bankfl> 
At  this  season  the  plain  on  one  side  of  the  village  was 
iBUodated,  and  seemed  a  large  lake.  The  village  was 
«  small  collection  of  hnta  upon  what  might  be  called  its 
banks.  It  consisted  of  one  street  or  rood,  gTasft-growH 
snd  still  as  at  Palenque,  at  the  extreme  end  of  which 
was  the  church,  under  the  pastoral  care  of  Our  friend 
the  padre.  Our  gnide,  according  to  the  dbcctions  of 
the  padre,  conducted  us  to  the  convent,  and  engaged  Ihe 
sexton  to  provide  us  with  snpper.  The  convent  was 
|.of  upright  sticks,  with  a  thatched  ro(^,  mud  iloot, 

ished  with  three  reed  bedsteads  and  a  table. 
P^B  place  we  were  to  embark  in  a  canoe,  and  had 
^Pa  courier  a  day  beforehand,  with  a  letter  from  the 
prefect  to  the  jiistitia,  to  have  one  ready  for  us.  The 
fuathia  was  a  portly  mulatto,  well  drcMed,  and  very  civil, 
httd  a  canoe  of  his  own,  and  promised  to  procure  us 
two  bogadores  or  rowers  in  the  morning.  Very  soon 
the  moschetoes  made  alarmingderaonstrotions,  and  gave 
Ds  apprehensions  of  a  fearful  night.  To  make  a  show 
<rf  resistance,  we  built  a  large  fire  in  the  middle  of  the 
eoDTent.  At  night  the  storm  came  on  with  a  high  wind, 
irhich  made  it  necessary  to  close  the  doors.  For  tw* 
Vol.  II.— 3  A 


} 


J 


170  IHClDfHTS    OV    TKATEL. 

houn  we  had  a  tempest  o£  wind  and  raint  with  torifio 
thunder  and  lightnii^;.  One  blast  burst  open  the  doov 
and  scattered  the  fire,  so  that  it  came  Yery  near  bund- 
ing down  the  convent.  Between  the  smoke  and  moS" 
chetoes,  it  was  a  matter  of  debate  which  of  the  two 
to  choose,  suffocation  or  torture.  We  preferred  ths 
former,  and  had  the  latter  besides,  and  passed  a  rn'mm 
able  night. 

The  next  morning  the  justitia  came  to  say  fhat  As 
bogadores  were  not  ready  and  could  not  go  that  dfty. 
The  price  which  he  named  was  about  twice  as  modi  S9 
the  cure  told  us  we  ought  to  pay,  besicles  poasol  (balls  of 
mashed  Indian  com),  tortillas,  honey,  and  meat.  I  v^ 
monstrated,  and  he  went  off  to  consult  the  moaoSi  bol 
returned  to  say  that  they  would  not  take  leas,  and,  aftflf 
treating  him  with  but  little  of  the  respect  due.  ta  offieSf 
I  was  obliged  to  accede;  but  I  ought  to  add,  thai 
throughout  that  country,  in  general,.  i»rices  are  fizedf 
and  there  is  less  adyantage  taken  of  the  necessity  of 
travellers  than  in  most  others.  We  were  loth  to  re* 
main,  for,  besides  the  loss  of  time  and  the  moschetoes^ 
the  scarcity  of  provisions  was  greater  than  at  Palenqne. 

The  sexton  bought  us  some  corn,  and  his  wife  made 
us  tortillas.  The  principal  merchant  in  the  place,  or^ 
at  least,  the  one  who  traded  most  largely  with  us,  was 
a  little  boy  about  twelve  years  old,  who  was  dressed  in 
a  petate  or  straw  hat.  He  had  brought  us  some  fruit, 
and  we  saw  him  coming  again  with  a  string  over  hii 
naked  shoulder,  dragging  on  the  ground  what  proved 
to  be  a  large  fish.  The  principal  food  of  the  pliace 
was  young  alligators.  They  were  about  a  foot  and  a 
half  long,  and  at  that  youthful  time  of  life  were  con- 
sidered very  tender.  At  their  first  appearance  on  die 
taUe  they  had  not  an  inviting  aspect,  but  ce  n'est  que  le 


▲  IIOTHBR    FVHBftAlM  S71 

■  \- 

puder  pas  qui  coute,  they  tasted  better  than  the  fiah, 
0nd  they  were  the  best  food  possible  for  our  canoe  Yoy- 
MD|  being  dried  and  capable  of  preservation. 
^  Qo  where  we  will,  to  the  uttermost  parts  of  the  earth, 
M  are  sure  to  meet  one  acquaintance.  Death  is  al- 
llpliys  with  us.  In  the  afternoon  was  the  funeral  of 
9i  child.  The  procession  consisted  of  eight  or  ten 
grown  persons,  and  as  many  boys  and  girb.  The  sez- 
ttto  carried  the  child  in  his  armS|  dressed  in  whitCi  with 
p>%reath  of  flowers  around  its  head.  All  were  hud-^ 
0i$i  around,  the  sexton,  walking  together ;  the  fiither 
Hid  mother  with  him;  and  even  more  than  in  Costa 
mea  I  remarked,  not  only  an  absence  of  solemnity,  but 
Aprirfiilnfrin  and  actual  gayety,  from  the  same  happy 
i9|nti0tion  that  the  child  had  gone  to  a  better  world.  I 
d  to  be  in  the  church  as  they  approached,  more 
a  wedding  than  a  burial  party.  The  floor  of  the 
was  earthen,  and  the  grave  was  dug  inside, 
,  as  the  sexton  told  me,  the  father  was  rich 
i(|d  could  afford  to  pay  for  it,  and  the  fia.ther  seemed 
pfefped  and  proud  that  he  could  give  his  child  such  a 
~  '-place.  The  sexton  laid  the  child  in  the  grave, 
its  little  hands  across  its  breast,  placing  there  a 
a|sall  rude  cross,  covered  it  over  with  eight  or  ten  indn 
M  of  earth,  and  then  got  into  the  grave  and  stamped  it 
OOwn  with  his  feet.  He  then  got  out  and  threw  in 
UMre,  and,  going  outside  of  the  church,  brought  back  a 
poimdear,  being  a  log  of  wood  about  four  feet  long  and 
Ifpi  inches  in  diameter,  like  the  rammer  used  among 
iil  by  paviors,  and  again  taking  his  place  in  the  grave, 
■rew  up  fhe  pounder  to  the  fidl  swing  of  his  arm,  and 
llfifliight  it  down  with  all  his  strength  over  the  head  of 
liib  child.  My  blood  ran  cold.  As  he  threw  it  up  a 
•eiDOdd  time  I  caught  his  arm  and  remonstratad  with 


87ft  INCi»«VTS    or    TEATSL. 


faimy  but  be  said  that  tbay  always  did  90  vith 
buried  iufiide  the  ehurch ;  that  the  earth  mnat  be  all  put 
back,  and  the  floor  of  the  clnsRch  xaade  even.  My  Mk 
mouBtrances  seemed  only  to  ghe  him  more  atrenglk  and 
spirit.  The  sweat  rolled  dowa  his  body,  and  wh«» 
perfectly  tired  with  pounding  be  stepped  out  of  the 
grave.  But  this  was  nothings  More  earth  ^as  thrown 
in,  and  the  father  laid  down  bis  hat,  stepped  into,  the 
grave,  and  the  pounder  was  headed  to  him.  I  saw 
him  throw  it  up  twice  and  bring  it  down  with  a  dead^ 
heavy  noise.  I  never  beheld  a  more  brutal  and  di|^ 
gusting  scene.  The  child's  body  must  have  besB 
crushed  to  atoms. 

Toward  evening  the  moscheloes  began  their  opeia^ 
tions.  Pawling  and  Juan  planted  sticks  in  the  grouvid 
outside  the  convent,  and  qiread  sheets  over  them  Iv 
nets ;  but  the  rain  came  on  and  dirave  them  witlun,  a|4 
we  passed  another  wretched  night.  It  may  be  asked 
how  the  inhabitants  live.  I  cannot  answer.  They 
seemed  to  suffer  as  much  as  we,  but  at  home  they 
could  have  conveniences  which  we  could  not  cany  in 
travelling.  Pawling  suffered  so  much,  and  heard  such 
dreadful  accounts  of  what  we  would  meet  with  below, 
that,  in  a  spirit  of  impetuosity  and  irritation,  he  resolved 
not  to  continue  any  farther.  From  the  difficulty  and 
uncertainty  of  communications,  however,  I  strongly  ap- 
prehended that  in  such  case  all  the  schemes  in  which 
he  was  concerned  must  fall  through  and  be  abandonedi 
as  I  was  not  willing  to  incur  the  expense  of  sending 
materials,  subject  to  delays  and  uncertainties,  unless  in 
special  charge,  and  once  more  he  changed  his  purpose. 

I  had  but  one  leave-taking,  and  that  was  a  trying 
one.  I  was  to  bid  farewell  to  my  noble  macho.  Ht 
had  carried  me  more  than  two  thousand  miles,  over  the 


flf/SmW^i^^'^-'i  -  5^4^-  -^^s.-.  ■  jr^^^-T. 


VA&fWSLL    TO    TBV    MILCHO.  878 

wont  roads  that  mnle  ever  travelled.  He  stood  tied 
to  the  door  of  the  convent ;  saw  the  lug^;age,  and  even 
his  own  saddle,  carried  Kway  by  iiand,  and  seemed 
to  have  a  presentiment  that  something  unusual  was 
IgiAng  on.  I  had  often  been  solicited  to  sell  him,  but 
BO  JDoney  could  have  tempted  me.  He  was  in  poover 
condition  than  when  we  reached  Palenque.  Deprived 
of  com  and  exposed  to  the  dreadful  rains,  he  was 
iporse  than  when  worked  hard  and  fed  well  every  day, 
«iid  in  his  drooping  state  seemed  to  reproach  me  for 
going  away  and  leaving  him  forlorn.  I  threw  my  arms 
around  his  neck ;  his  eyes  had  a  mournful  expression, 
and  at  that  moment  he  forgot  the  angry  prick  of  the 
qrar.  I  laid  aside  the  memory  of  a  toss  from  his  back 
and  ineffectual  attempts  to  repeat  it|  and  we  remem- 
bered only  mutual  kind  oiSices  and  good-fellowship. 
Tried  and  faithful  companion,  where  are  you  now  ?  I 
left  him,  with  two  others,  tied  at  the  door  of  the  convent, 
to  be  taken  by  the  sexton  to  the  prefect  at  Palenque, 
there  to  recover  from  the  debilitating  influence  of  the 
early  rains,  and  to  roam  on  rich  pasture-grounds,  un- 
touched by  bridle  or  spur,  until  I  should  return  to 
mount  him  again. 


S74  .llfCIDBJrTt    OV    rtLXfMlL, 


r^'i 


.  ^ 


GHAPTEB  XXn. 

Imbareatun.— An  imuidatad  PIkul— Uo  Chica^TlM  UwMBiti,— Hto  fti^ 
till  —  Yncatui. ~ Mora  Revolationi. — YMpert. — Eadamtion fiirlht I^ 
gm.^8liooKiii9  AlBtatoriL— IVflModoai  fltom.— Boa  Ghica— Laki^ 
TbnaiiUM.— A  Calm,  iiicoMded  bf  a  T«BpaM.— AiriTal »!  Iht 


At  seyen  o'clock  we  went  down  to  the  shore  to 
embark.  The  boatmen  whom  the  justice  had  coDNlt- 
ed,  and  for  whom  he  had  been  so  tenacious,  were  his 
honour  himself  and  another  man,  who,  we  thought, 
was  hired  as  the  cheapest  help  he  could  find  in  the  Til- 
lage. The  canoe  was  about  forty  feet  long,  with  a  toldo 
or  awning  of  about  twelve  feet  at  the  stern,  and  covered 
with  matting.  All  the  space  before  this  was  required 
by  the  boatmen  to  work  the  canoe,  and,  with  all  our 
luggage  under  the  awning,  we  had  but  narrow  quartera. 
The  seeming  lake  on  which  we  started  was  merely  a 
large  inundated  plain,  covered  with  water  to  the  depth 
of  three  or  four  feet ;  and  the  justice  in  the  stern,  and 
his  assistant  before,  walking  in  the  bottom  of  the  ca- 
noe, with  poles  against  their  shoulders,  set  her  across. 
At  eight  o'clock  we  entered  a  narrow,  muddy  creek, 
not  wider  than  a  canal,  but  very  deep,  and  with  the 
current  against  us.  The  setting-pole  could  not  touch 
bottom,  but  it  was  forked  at  one  end,  and,  keeping 
close  to  the  bank,  the  bogador  or  rower  fixed  it  against 
the  branches  of  overhanging  trees  and  pushed,  while 
the  justice,  whose  pole  hud  a  rude  hook,  fastened  it  to 
other  branches  forward  and  pulled.  In  this  way,  with 
no  view  but  that  of  the  wooded  banks,  we  worked 
slowly  along  the  muddy  stream.  In  turning  a  short 
bend,  suddenly  wc  saw  on  the  banks  eight  or  ten  alli- 
gators, some  of  them  twenty  feet  long,  huge,  hideous 


w 


BB    VtVHASIITTA.  MV 


moBfldon;  aJ){»opriate  inhabitants  of  rach  a  stream,  andf 
eonsidering  the  frailty  of  ouv  little  vessel,  not  very  at*  t 
tfactive  neighboiin.  As  we  approached  they  plunged 
heavily  into  the  water,  sometimes  rose  in  the  middle  of 
tte  stream,  and  swam  across  or  disappeared.  At  half 
pflijt  twelve  we  entered  the  Bio  Chico  or  Litde  BivcTy 
varying  "from  two^to  five  hundred  feet  in  width,  deep,  ^ 
nmddy,  and  very  sluggish,  with  wooded  banks  of  impen* 
etrable  thickness.  At  six  o'clock  we  entered  the  great 
llsomasinta,  five  or  six  hundred  yards  across,  one  of  the 
noblest  rivers  in  Central  America,  rising  among  the  moun- 
tains of  Peten,  and  emptying  into  the  Lake  of  Terminoa« 

At  this  point  the  three  provinces  of  Chiapas,  Tobasco, 
aad  Yucatan  meet,  and  the  junction  of  the  waters  of 
the  Usumasinta  and  the  Bio  Chico  presents  a  singular 
speotacle.  Since  leaving  the  sheet  of  water  before  .the 
Flayaa  we-  had  been  ascending  the  stream,  but  now, 
oontimiing  in  the  same  direction  and  crossing  the  line 
of  junction,  we  came  from  the  ascending  current  of  the 
Bio  Chico  into  the  descending  flow  of  the  Usumasinta. 
Working  out  into  the  middle  and  looking  back,  we  saw 
the  Usumasinta  and  Bio  Chico  commg  together,  and 
foffming  an  angle  of  not  more  than  forty  degrees,  one 
ronning  up  and  the  other  down.  Amid  the  wildness 
afld  stillness  of  the  majestic  riviBr,  and  floating  in  a  lit* 
tie  oanoe,  the  effect  was  very  extraordinary;  but  the 
eaose  was  obvious.  The  Usumasinta,  descending  swift* 
ly  and  with  immense  force,  broke  against  a  projecting 
headland  on  the  left  of  its  course ;  and,  while  the  main 
body  forced  its  way  past  and  hurried  on  to  the  ocean, 
pi^  was  turned  back  at  this  sharp  angle  with  such 
power  as  to  form  the  creeks  which  we  had  ascended, 
and  flood  the  plain  of  the  Playas. 

At  this  time,  away  from  the  wooded  banks,  with  the 

setting-poles  at  rest,  and  floating  quietly  ob  the  bosom 

33 


S76  INCI9BNTS    09    T»4WUi. 


of  the  noble  Ufiimaaiiita,  our  staatkm  wm  plrtnant 
eocciting.  A  strong  wind  sweeping  down  the'  mev 
drove  away  the  moscheteeSy  and  therd^  were  no  galhow 
ing  clouds  to  indicate  rain.  We  had  expected  to  oome 
to  for  the  night,  bot  the  eTcning  was  so  elear  that  we 
determined  to  continue.  Unfortunately,  we  were  oUh 
ged  to  leave  the  nsuraasinta,  and,  about  an  hour  after 
dark,  turned  to  the  north  into  the  Rao  Palisada.  The 
whole  great  plain  from  Palenque  to  the  GUilf  of  Mezioa 
is  broken  by  creeks  and  streams.  The  Usumasinta  m 
its  stately  course  receives  many,  and  sends  off  others  to 
find  their  way  by  other  channels  to  the  sea. 

Leaving  the  broad  expanse  of  the  Usumasinta,  with 
its  comparative  light,  the  Bio  Palisada,  narrow,  and  wilk 
a  dark  line  of  forest  on  each  side,  had  an  aspect 
fearfully  ominous  of  mosehetoes.  Unfortunately,  at  ths 
very  beginning  we  brushed  against  the  bank,  and  took 
on  board  enough  to  show  us  the  bloodthirsty  character  of 
the  natives.    Of  course  that  night  afforded  us  little  sleep. 

At  daylight  we  were  still  dropping  down  the  river. 
This  was  the  region  of  the  great  logwood  country.  We 
met  a  large  bungo  with  two  masts  moving  against  the 
stream,  set  up  by  hauling  and  pushing  on  the  branch- 
es of  trees,  on  her  way  for  a  cargo.  As  we  advanced, 
the  banks  of  the  river  in  some  places  were  cleared  and 
cultivated,  and  had  whitewashed  houses,  and  small  su- 
gar-mills turned  by  oxen,  and  canoes  were  lying  on  the 
water ;  altogether  the  scene  was  pretty,  but  with  the 
richness  of  the  soil  suggesting  the  idea  how  beautiful 
this  country  might  be  made. 

At  two  o'clock  we  reached  the  Palisada,  situated  oa 
the  left  bank  of  the  river,  on  a  luxuriant  plain  elevated 
some  fifteen  or  twenty  feet.  Several  bungoes  lay  along 
the  bank,  and  in  front  was  a  long  street,  with  large  and 
well-built  houses.     This»  our  first  point,  was  in  the 


MOftX     I^BTOLtrTIONS.  flTT 

State  (tf  Yucatan,  then  in  reTolution  against  the  gcyr- 
cmmeMt  of  Mexico^  Our  deeoent  of  the  river  had  been 
watched  from  the  bank,  and  before  we  landed  we  were 
hailed,  asked  for  our  nassports,  and  directed  to  present 
oorselyes  immediately  to  the  alcalde.  The  intimation  waa 
peremptory,  and  we  proceeded  forthwith  to  the  alcalde. 
Don  Francisco  Hebreu  was  superior  to  any  man  I  had 
yet  found  at  the  head  of  a  municipality ;  in  fact,  he  was 
chief  of  the  Liberal  party  in  that  section  of  the  state, 
and,  like  all  the  other  officials  in  the  JVf  exican  pronn- 
oes,  received  us  with  the  respect  due  to  an  official 
passport  of  a  friendly  nation.  We  were  again  in  the 
midst  of  a  revolution,  but  had  not  the  remotest  idea 
what  it  was  about.  We  were  most  intimately  aequaint* 
ad  with  Central  American  politics,  but  this  was  of  no 
more  um  to  us  than  a  knowledge  of  Texan  politice 
wonld  he  to  a  stranger  in  the  United  States.  For  sev* 
ecal  months  the  names  of  Morazan  and  Carrera  had 
rang  in  our  ears  like  those  of  our  own  candidates  for  the 
pffBsidency  at  a  contested  election;  but  we  had  passed 
tfie  limits  of  their  world,  and  were  obliged  to  begin  anew* 

For  eight  years  the  Central  party  had  maintained  the 
Moondancy  in  Mexico,  during  which  time,  as  a  mark 
of  the  iympcUhy  between  neighbouring  people,  the  Lib» 
era!  at  Democratic  party  had  been  ascendant  in  Ceii» 
tml  America.  Within  the  last  six  months  the  Central* 
iet%  had  overturned  the  Liberals  in  Central  Amerioai 
and  during  the  scune  time  the  Liberalists  had  almost 
driven  out  the  Centralists  m  Mexico.  Along  the  whole 
ooaat  of  the  Padfio  the  Liberals  were  in  arms,  waging 
a  strong  revolutionary  war,  and  threatening  the  oaphali 
which  they  afterward  entered,  but,  after  great  massaora 
and  bloodshed,  were  expelled.  On  the  Atlantio  sidei 
dM  states  of  Tobasoo  and  Yuoatan  had  declared  thek 

Vol.  n.— 3  B 


878  IHCIDXMTS    OF    TE4THL. 

independence  of  the  general  goYerameat,  and  in  the 
interior  of  both  states  the  officials  of  the  Central  gov- 
emment  had  been  driVen  out.  The  seaports  of  Tobas- 
oo  and  Campeachyy  garrisoned  by  Central  troops,  still 
held  out,  but  they  were  at  that  mne  blockaded  and  be- 
sieged on  land  by  the  Federal  forces.  All  oommuoi- 
cations  by  sea  and  land  were  cut  off,  their  supplies 
were  short,  and  Don  Francisco  thought  they  would 
soon  be  obliged  by  starvation  to  surrender. 

The  revolution  seemed  of  a  higher  tone,  for  greater 
cause,  and  conducted  with  more  moderation  than  in 
Central  America.  The  grounds  of  revolt  here  were 
the  despotism  of  the  Central  government,  which,  bt 
removed  by  position,  and  ignorant  of  the  condition  and 
resources  of  the  country,  used  its  distant  provinces  as  a 
quartering  place  for  rapacious  officers,  and  a  source  of 
revenue  for  money  to  be  squandered  in  the  capital 
One  little  circumstance  showed  the  impolicy  and  ineffi* 
ciency  of  the  laws.  On  account  of  high  duties,  smug- 
gling was  carried  to  such  an  extent  on  the  coast  that 
many  articles  were  regularly  sold  at  the  Palisada  for 
much  less  than  the  duties. 

The  revolution,  like  all  others  in  that  country,  began 
with  pronunciamentos,  i.  e.,  declarations  of  the  munici- 
pality, or  what  we  would  call  the  corporation  of  a 
town,  in  favour  of  any  particular  party.  The  Palisada 
had  made  its  pronunciamento  but  two  weeks  befcnre,  the 
Central  officers  had  been  turned  out,  and  the  present 
alcalde  was  hardly  warm  in  his  place.  The  change, 
however,  had  been  effected*  with  a  spirit  of  moderation 
and  forbearance,  and  without  bloodshed.  Don  Fran- 
cisco, with  a  liberality  unusual,  spoke  of  his  inunediate 
predecessor  as  an  upright  but  misguided  man,  who  was 
not  persecuted,  but  then  living  in  the  place  unmolested. 


A    RICH     PROPSISTOS.  S70 

The  Liberals,  however,  did  not  expect  the  same  treat- 
ment  at  the  hands  of  the  Centralists.  An  inyasioD 
had  been  apprehended  from  Tobasco.  Don  Francisco 
iiad  his  silver  and  valnablee  packed  up,  and  kept  his 
bungo  before  the  door  to  save  his  effects  and  familyi 
and  the  place  was  alive  with  patriots  brushing  up  armii 
and  preparing  for  war. 

Don  Francisco  was  a  rich  man ;  had  a  hacienda  of 
thirty  thousand  head  of  cattle,  logwood  plantations  and 
bongoes,  and  was  rated  at  two  hundred  thousand  dol« 
lars.     The  house  in  which  he  lived  was  on  the  bank  of 
the  river,  newly  built,  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  fronty 
and  had  cost  him  twenty  thousand  dollars.     While  we 
were  with  him  dinner  was  about  being  served,  in  a  lib- 
eral style  of  housekeeping  unusual  in  that  country,  and^ 
with  the  freedom  of  a  man  who  felt  sure  that  he  could 
■ot  be  taken  unaware,  he  asked  us  to  join  him  at  ta- 
ble.    In  all  his  domestic  relations  he  was  like  the  re* 
qpectable  head  of  a  family  at  home.     He  had  two  sons, 
whom  he  intended  to  send  to  the  United  States  to  be 
educated ;  and  minor  things,  too,  called  up  home  feel* 
ings.     For  the  first  time  in  a  long  while  we  had  bread, 
Ottde  of  flour  from  New- York,  and  the  barrel-head  had 
a  Bochester  brand.     Don  Franoisco  had  never  trav- 
elled farther  than  Tobasco  and  Campeachy,  but  he 
was  well  acquainted  with  Europe  and  the  United  States^ 
geographically  and  politically;  indeed,  he  was  one  of 
the  most  agreeable  companions  and  best-informed  mea 
we  met    in  that   country.    We   remained  with  him 
all  the  afternoon,  and  toward  evening  moved  our  chaiie 
oatside  in  front  of  the  house,  which  at  evening  was  the 
tegular  gathering-place  of  the  family.     The  bank  of  the 
river  was  a  promenade  for  the  people  of  the  town, 
who  stopped  to  exchange  greetings  with  Don  Fran- 


iSM  I9GI0l]rTt    OP    TBATBL. 


eisoo  aad  hiB  wife ;.  a  vaoant  chair  ww  alwmjB-ai  Immif 
iftiid  from  time  to  time  one  took  a  seat  with  Ǥ.  When 
.the  veeper  bell  stmok  oonvemtionioeaoedf  aUieee  from 
•their  seats,  ma^e  a  short  pcajer,  and  when  it  was  oiv 
turned  to  each  other  with  a  boenos  nooes,  resetted 
themselves,  and  renewed  the  eonversatioo.  There 
always  something  imposing  in  the  sonnd  of  the 
1>ell|  presenting  the  idea  of  an  immense  mvUitnde  of 
lieople  at  the  same  inoment  offering  np  a  prajrer. 
.  During  the  evening  a  courier  arrived  with  despatehss 
!for  Don  Francisco,  advising  him  that  a  town  vriiich  had 
^'jpronounced"  in  fieivottr  of  the  Liberals  had  pronoanoed 
back  again,  which  seemed  to  give  both  him  and  hii 
•wife  much  mieasiness.  At  ten  o'clock  an  armed  pa- 
trol came  for  orders,  and  we  retired  to  what  we  mask 
needed,  a  good  night's  rest. 

In  the  morning  Don  Francisoo,  half  in  jest  mi 
half  in  earnest,  told  us  of  the  uneasiness  we  had  giv- 
en his  wife.  Pawling's  Spanish,  and  constant  uss 
of  idioms  well  known  as  belonging  to  the  city  of 
Mexico,  had  excited  her  suspicions ;  she  said  he  was 
not  an  American,  but  a  Mexican  from  the  capital,  and 
she  believed  him  to  be  a  spy  of  the  Centralists.  Paw* 
ling  did  not  like  the  imputation  ;  he  was  a  little  nuvti- 
fied  at  this  visible  mark  of  long  absence  frt>m  his  coun- 
try, and  not  at  all  flattered  at  being  taken  fot  a  Mexi- 
can. Don  Francisco  laughed  at  it,  but  his  wife  was  so 
pertinacious^  that,  if  it  had  not  been  for  the  apparent 
propriety  of  my  being  attended  by  one  perfectly  frt^ 
miliar  with  the  language  of  the  country,  I  believe,  in  the 
State  of  apprehension  and  distrust.  Pawling  would  have 
lost  the  benefit  of  his  birthright,  and  been  arrested  as 
a  spy. 

We  passed  the  next  day  in  a  quiet  lounge  and  in 


A     BUN  GO.  881 

laaking  arrangements  for  continuing  our  journey,  and 
the  next  day  after,  furnished  with  a  luxurious  supply  of 
provisions  by  the  senora,  and  accompanied  to  the  place 
by  Don  Francisco,  we  embarked  on  board  a  bungo  for 
the  Laguna.  The  bungo  was  about  fifteen  tons,  flat- 
bottomed,  with  two  masts  and  sails,  and  loaded  with 
lo^ood.  The  deck  was  covered  with  mangoes,  plan- 
tains, and  other  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  so  encumber- 
ed that  it  was  impossible  to  move.  The  stern  had  mova- 
ble hatches.  A  few  tiers  of  logwood  had  been  taken 
oat,  and  the  hatches  put  over  so  as  to  give  us  a  shelter 
against  rain ;  a  sail  was  rigged  into  an  awning  to  pip- 
tect  us  from  the  sun,  and  in  ^  few  minutes  we  pushed 
dff  from  the  bank. 

We  had  as  passenger^  two  young  Central  Americans 
from  Peten,  both  under  twenty,  and  flying  on  account 
of  the  dominion  of  the  Carrera  party.  Coming,  as  we 
did,  direct  from  Central  America,  we  called  each  other 
oomitrymen.  We  soon  saw  that  the  bungo  had  a  mis** 
erable  crew.  Above  the  men  were  called  bogadofes 
or  rowers ;  but  here,  as  they  were  on  board  a  bungo 
with  sails,  and  going  down  to  the  seacoast,  they  called 
themselves  marineros  or  sailors.  The  patron  or  master 
was  a  nuld,  inoffensive,  and  inefficient  man,  who  prefieice^ 
an  his  orders  to  his  breechless  marineros  with  the  con- 
oiliatory  words,  "  Sencnres,  haga  me  el  favor  ;"  ^^  Gen- 
tlemen, do  me  the  favour." 

Below  the  town  commenced  an  island  about  four 
leagues  in  length,  at  the  end  of  which,  on  the  main- 
land, was  a  large  clearing  and  farming  establishment, 
with  canoes  lying  on  the  water.  All  travelling  here  is 
along  the  river,  and  in  canoes.  From  this  place  tb&te 
were  no  habitations ;  the  river  waa  very  deep,  the  banks 
teaeely  wooded,  with  the  branches  spreading  frtr  over. 

4 


S8t  INCIDKNT8     OF    TRATKL. 

Very  soon  we  came  to  a  part  of  the  riyer  where  tbm 
alligators  seemed  to  enjoy  undisturbed  pofiBeaaioiL  Some 
lay  basking  in  the  sun  on  mudbankSi  like  logs  of  drift* 
wood,  and  in  many  places  the  river  was  dotted  with 
their  heads.  The  Spanish  historian  says  that  ^^  They 
swim  with  their  Head  above  the  water,  gcqping  at  What- 
soever they  see,  and  swallow  it,  whether  Stick,  Stone, 
or  living  Creature,  which  is  the  true  reason  of  their 
swallowing  Stones ;  and  not  to  sink  to  the  bottonii  as 
some  say,  for  they  have  no  need  to  do  so,  nor  do  they 
like  it,  being  extraordinary  Swinuners;  for  the  Tail 
serves  instead  of  a  Rudder,  the  Head  is  the  Prow,  aad 
the  Paws  the  Oars,  being  so  swift  as  to  catch  any  other 
fish  as  it  swims.  An  hundred  Weight  and  an  half  of 
fresh  Fish  has  been  found  in  the  Maw  of  an  Alligator, 
besides  what  was  digested ;  in  another  was  an  Indian 
Woman  whole,  with  her  Cloaths,  whom  he  had  swallow* 
ed  the  Day  before,  and  another  with  a  pair  of  Gold 
Bracelets,  with  Pearls,  the  Enamel  gone  off,  and  Part 
of  the  Pearls  dissolved,  but  the  Gold  entire." 

Here  they  still  maintained  their  dominion*  Accidents 
firequently  happen  ;  and  at  the  PaUsada  Don  Francisco 
told  us  that  a  year  before  a  man  had  had  his  leg  bitten 
off  and  was  drowned.  Three  were  lying  together  at 
the  mouth  of  a  small  stream  which  emptied  into  the 
river.  The  patron  told  us  that  at  the  end  of  the  last 
dry  season  upward  of  two  hundred  had  been  counted 
in  the  bed  of  a  pond  emptied  by  this  stream.  The 
boatmen  of  several  bungoes  went  in  among  them  with 
clubs,  sharp  stakes,  and  machetes,  and  killed  upward  of 
sixty.  The  river  itself,  discoloured,  with  muddy  bankS| 
and  a  fiery  sun  beating  upon  it,  was  ugly  enough ;  but 
these  huge  and  ugly  monsters,  neither  fish  nor  flesh| 
made  it  absolutely  hideous.     The  boatmen  called  them 


•1A 


▲    DISASTER.  388 

onemigos  de  los  ChriBtianos,  by  which  they  mean  ene- 
mies of  mankind.  In  a  canoe  it  would  have  been  un- 
j^easant  to  disturb  them,  but  in  the  bungo  we  brought 
out  our  gans  and  made  indiscriminate  war.  One  mon- 
stergirtwenty-fiye  or  thirty  feet  long,  lay  on  the  arm  of  a 
gigantic  tree  which  projected  forty  or  fifty  feet,  the 
lower  part  covered  with  water,  but  the  whole  of  the 
alligator  was  Tisible.  I  hit  him  just  under  the  white 
line ;  he  fell  off,  and  with  a  tremendous  convulsion, 
feddening  the  water  with  a  circle  of  blood,  turned  over 
on  his  back,  dead.  A  boatman  and  one  of  the  Peten 
lads  got  into  a  canoe  to  bring  him  alongside.  The  ca- 
noe was  small  and  tottering,  and  had  not  proceeded 
fifty  yards  before  it  dipped,  filled,  upset,  and  threw 
them  both  into  the  water.  At  that  moment  there  were 
perhaps  twenty  alligators  in  sight  on  the  banks  and 
Mrimniing  in  different  parts  of  the  river.  We  could  do 
iwHhing  for  the  man  and  boy,  and  the  old  bungo,  which 
before  hardly  moved,  seemed  to  start  forward  purpose- 
ly to  leave  them  to  their  fate.  Every  moment  the  die* 
tance  betwew  as  and  them  increased,  and  on  board  all 
WB8  confusiom ;  the  patron  cried  out  in  agony  to  the  se- 
ilores,  and  the  senores,  straining  every  nerve,  turned  the 
old  bungo  in  to  the  bank,  and  got  the  masts  foul  of  the 
branches  of  the  trees,  which  held  her  fast.  In  the  mean 
time  our  friends  in  the  water  were  not  idle.  The  Pe- 
tek  lad  struck  out  vigorously  toward  the  shore,  and  we 
•aw  him  seize  the  branch  of  a  tree  which  projected  fifty 
jfeet  over  the  water,  so  low  as  to  be  within  reach,  haul 
lumself  up  like  a  monkey,  and  run  along  it  to  the  shore. 
The  marinero,  having  the  canoe  to  himself,  turned  her 
Hbttom  upward,  got  astride,  and  paddled  down  with  his 
haads.  Both  got  safely  on  board,  and,  apprehenaioa 
fves^  the  affair  wm  considered  a  good  i|ke. 


384  INCIDBMT8    OF    TEATSL. 

In  the  mean  time  our  masts  had  become  ao  looked  im 
the  branches  of  the  trees  that  we  carried  awiy  sons  of 
our  miserable  tackling  in  extricating  them;  but  at  leogdi 
were  once  more  in  the  middle  of  the  riyer,  and  renewed 
our  war  upon  los  enemigos  de  los  Christianos.  The 
sun  was  so  hot  that  we  could  not  stand  outside  the 
awning,  but  the  boatmen  gaye  us  notice  when  we  conM 
have  a  shot.  Our  track  down  the  river  will  be  remem* 
bered  as  a  desolation  and  scourge.  Old  alligatorsi  by 
djriug  injunction,  will  teach  the  rising  generation  to 
keep  the  head  under  water  when  the  bungoes  are  com* 
ing.  We  killed  perhaps  twenty,  and  others  are  proba* 
bly  at  this  moment  sitting  on  the  banks  with  our  bulleli 
in  their  bodies,  wondering  how  they  came  there.  With 
rifles  we  could  have  killed  at  least  a  hundred. 

At  three  o'clock  the  regular  afternoon  storm  came  on, 
beginning  with  a  tremendous  sweep  of  wind  up  the  rh^ 
er,  which  turned  the  bungo  round,  drove  her  broadside 
up  the  stream,  and  before  we  could  come  to  at  the  bank 
we  had  a  deluge  of  rain.  At  length  we  made  fast,  se- 
cured the  hatch  over  the  place  prepared  for  us,  and 
crawled  under.  It  was  so  low  that  we  could  not  sit  up, 
and,  lying  down,  there  was  about  a  foot  of  room  above 
us.  On  our  arrival  at  the  Palisada  we  considered  our- 
selves fortunate  in  finding  a  bungo  ready,  although  she 
had  already  on  board  a  full  load  of  logwood  from  stem 
to  stern.  Don  Francisco  said  it  would  be  too  uncom- 
fortable, and  wished  us  to  wait  for  a  bungo  of  his  own ; 
but  delay  was  to  us  a  worse  evil,  and  I  made  a  bargain 
to  have  a  portion  of  the  logwood  taken  out  behind  the 
mainmast,  so  as  to  admit  of  a  hatch  on  deck,  and  give 
room  below.  But  we  had  not  given  any  personal  su- 
perintendence ;  and  when  we  came  on  board,  though 
the  log^vood  seemed  of  a  rather  hand  species  for  sleep- 


Mi^SBBIXS    OF    A    BVHOH. 


w«  did  Hol  diBoover  the  extreme  dtteomfart  of 
place  until  forced  below  by  the  rain.  Even  the 
place  engaged^  and  paid  for  accordingly,  we  had 
to  oumelyes.  The  Peten  lads  crawled  imder  with 
*and  the  patron  and  eenores  followed.  We  conM 
drrre  them  oat  into  a  merciless  rain,  and  all  lay  like 
•■•  mass  of  human  flesh,  animated  by  the  same  spirit 
ot  suffering,  irritation,  and  helplessness.  During  this 
time  the  rain  was  descending  in  a  deluge ;  the  thunder 
Jidled  fearfully  over  our  heads;  lightning  flashed  ia 
dtoough  the  crevices  of  our  dark  burrowing-place,  da»« 
liiag  and  blinding  our  eyes ;  and  we  heard  near  us  the 
lOTffifio  crash  of  a  falling  tree,  snapped  by  the  wind,  or, 
•0  we  then  suiq>osed,  shivered  by  lightning. 

Such  was  our  position.  Sometimes  the  knots  io  the 
lag  wood  fitted  well  into  the  curves  and  hollows  of  the 
body^  but  in  general  they  were  just  where  they  should 
be.  We  thought  we  could  not  be  worse  off,  but 
soon  we  found  our  mistake,  and  looked  back  upon 
earselves  as  ungrateful  murmurers  without  cause.  The 
aeaohetoes  elaimed  us  as  waifis,  and  in  murderous 
siwaiinw  found  the  way  under  the  hatches,  humming  and 


I  imell  the  blood  of  an  EDgliih-nmn, 
Dead  or  alire  I  will  have  some." 

I  jlow  look  back  upon  our  troubles  at  that  place  with 
perfect  equanimity ;  but  at  the  moment,  with  the  ho9i 
wmd  oonfinement,  we  were  in  anything  but  an  amiable 
l||pMH2r,  and  at  ten  o'clock  broke  out  furious,  upbraided 
te  patron  and  his  lazy  seSores  for  not  reaching  the 
Wmth  of  the  river  before  night,  as  is  usually  done^  an4 
ia.li0  had  been  charged  by  the  alcalde  to  do,  and  iiih 
upon  his  h^ijjtinc  out  into  the  stream. 
Vol.  n.— 3  C 


S86  INCIBB1IT8    OF    TRAVSL. 

The  rain  had  ceased,  bnt  the  wind  was  still 
and  dead  ahead.  By  the  misty  light  we  saw  sl  laiga 
bungo,  with  one  sail  set,  seemingly  flying  up  the  mm 
like  a  phantom.  We  made  the  patron  haul  out  firaoi 
the  bank,  but  we  could  not  keep  the  riTer,  and,  after  a 
few  zigzag  morements,  were  shot  across  to  the  oppi^ 
site  side,  where  we  brought  upon  us  new  and  moss 
hungry  swarms.  Here  we  remained  an  hour  langei^ 
when  the  wind  died  away,  and  we  pushed  out  into  lbs 
stream.  This  was  a  great  relief.  The  senores,  thoagb 
more  used  to  the  scourge  of  moschetoes  than  we,  wot^ 
fered  quite  as  much.  The  clouds  rolled  away,  lbs 
mo(m  broke  out,  and,  but  for  the  abominable  insnrls, 
our  float  down  the  wild  and  desolate  river  would  have 
been  an  event  to  live  in  memory ;  as  it  was,  not  mie  of 
US  attempted  to  sleep ;  and  I  verily  believe  a  man  conM 
not  have  passed  an  entire  night  on  the  banks  and  lived. 

At  daylight  we  were  still  in  the  river.  Very  soon 
we  reached  a  small  lake,  and,  making  a  few  tacks,  en* 
tered  a  narrow  passage  called  the  Boca  Chico,  or  Lit- 
tle Month.  The  water  was  almost  even  with  the  banks, 
and  on  each  side  were  the  most  gigantic  trees  of  the 
tropical  forests,  their  roots  naked  three  or  four  feet 
above  the  ground,  gnarled,  twisted,  and  interlacing 
each  other,  gray  and  dead-looking,  and  holding  up,  so 
as  to  afford  an  extended  view  under  the  first  branches, 
a  forest  of  vivid  green.  At  ten  o'clock  we  passed  the 
Boca  Chica  and  entered  the  Lake  of  Terminos.  Once 
more  in  salt  water  and  stretching  out  under  full,  sail,  on 
the  right  we  saw  only  an  expanse  of  water ;  on  the  left 
was  a  border  of  trees  with  naked  roots,  which  seemed 
growing  out  of  the  water ;  and  in  front,  but  a  little  to 
the  left,  and  barely  visible,  a  long  line  of  trees,  marking 
the  island  of  Carmen,  on  which  stood  the  town  of  La- 


'«bMl  :«iid  .uoneowy  wkh^  feeib  aod^  nttdbaM, 
ipd'oiir  boalmMndid  not  iM  tlip  the  oinaeeHyf  nnidiig 
lHK«>iM»^'  Tkefr  efforts  taget^Mr  off  oa^ped  the  eit 
ol.  flPtupidi^  umL  Inrineii ;  one  oir' tiro  of  them 
ft»a  polee  et  a  time,  as  if  thqr  ymt^  shoring  tiff 
if^MBd  then  stopping  to  rest  and  giving  up  to 
Of  wha^  conld  be  done  hy  united  force  they 
.to.  have  no  idea;  and,  afker-a  f ew  ini^Bbetual 
th^. patton  said  we  most  xemaih  till  the  iiAl 
We  had  oo  idea  of  another  night  on  tk>ard  ttto 
%|Kigo^  Iknd  took  entiie  command  of  tiie  vesseL  -  This 
entitled  to  4o  from  the  pliysical  foiree  we 
into  action.  Even  Mr.  Gatherwood  assisted; 
hasJifSr  him,  we  were  three  aUe-bodied  andi^  dee- 
aien.  Joan's  etforts  were  gigantic.  Frcxn  the 
mtAee  exposed,  the  moeohetoes  had  tormented 
rdssadfiillyy  and  he  was  even  knore  disgusted  with 
4Nte  hpago  than  we.  We  pot  two  of  the  men  into  the 
,to  heave  against  the  bottom  witfi  their-  sboidden, 
bearing  on  poles  all  together,  we  shoved 
Int  tsff  into  deep  water.    With  a  gentle  breeae  we 

Aly  along  nnt&  we  oonld  distinguish  the 
of  vessels  at  the:  Lagnna  rising  above  the  island, 
idMtt^he  wind  died  away  entirely,  and  left  us  under  a 
iiailim  ma  in  a  dead  calm. 

.^4y  nu  o^olodc  we  saw  donds  gathering,  and  imme* 
^#rita^  the  sky  became  very  black,  the  harbinger' of  Mia 
l|'4h0sk*  dreadful  storms  which  even  on  dry  land  were 
^|pMUe»  ^  The  hatdies  were  put  down,  and  a  tarpaulin 
over  for  us  to  take  refuge  und«r.  The  sqoall 
09  so  suddenly  that  the  men  vrere  taken  uttl» 
WMs^  and  the  confusion  on  board  vfas  Abrming.  Hie 
fsirsui  with  botl|||wds  extended^  and  a  most  beseech* 

34 


iog  lcx>k,  begged  the  Befioores  la  teke  in  nil ;  nd  tke 
fioree^  idl  shouting  together,  Tan  and  tonUed  cmt  ihm 
logwood,  hauling  upon  every  lope  but  the  wifjbx  onew 
The  mainroil  ituek  half  way  up,  and  would  not  eooM 
down;  and  while  the  patron  and  aU  the  men  were 
shouting  and  looking  i^  at  it,  the  marinero  mho  had 
be^i  upeet  in  the  eanoe,  with  tears  of  terror  aetmBy 
streaming  from  his  eyes,  and  a  start  of  desperation,  raa 
up  the  mast  by  the  rings,  and,  springing  riolently  npon 
the  top  one,  holding  fast  by  a  rope,  brought  the  sail 
down  with  a  run.  A  hurricane  blew  throngh  the  naked 
masts,  a  deluge  of  rain  followed,  and  the  lake  wee  lash- 
ed into  fury ;  we  lost  sight  of  everything.  At  the  very 
beginning,  on  aeeount  of  the  confusion  on  board,  we 
determined  not  to  go  under  the  hatch ;  if  tlie  bmige 
swamped,  the  logwood  cargo  would  carry  her  to  the 
bottom  like  lead.  We  disencumbered  ourselves  cf 
boots  and  coats,  and  brought  out  life-preservers  ready 
for  use.  The  deck  of  the  bungo  was  about  three  feet 
irom  the  water,  and  perfectly  smooth,  without  anything 
to  hold  on  by,  and,  to  keep  from  being  blown  or  wash- 
ed away,  we  lay  down  and  took  the  whole  brunt  of  the 
storm.  The  atmosphere  was  black ;  but  by  the  flashes 
we  saw  the  bare  poles  of  another  bungo,  tossed,  like 
ourselves,  at  the  mercy  of  the  storm.  This  continued 
more  than  an  hour,  when  it  cleared  off  as  suddenly  as  it 
came  up,  and  we  saw  the  Laguna  crowded  with  more 
shipping  than  we  had  seen  since  we  left  New- York.  In 
our  long  inland  journey  we  had  almost  forgotten  the 
use  of  ships,  and  the  very  sight  of  them  seemed  to  bring 
as  into  close  relations  with  home.  The  squall  having 
spent  its  fury,  there  was  now  a  dead  calm.  The  men 
took  to  their  sweeps,  but  made  very  little  headway; 
and,  with  the  port  in  full  sight,  we  had  great  apprehen* 


AltRiVAL     AT     LAOONA.  3S9 

ii|iut'^  aaothw  nigltt  cm  boards  when  another  BqiaaXL 
mkj  nol  wo  violenty  bvt  blowung  direotly  from  tte 

rbow.  Tremendous  tain  aoeompanied  it.  We  made 
mro  or  three  tacks  under  a  olose-reefed  foresail;  th* 
#|ll  bungo  seemed  to  fly  through  the  water ;  and,  when 
nsnler  full  way,  the  anohor,  or,  to  qpeak  more  correctly, 
■loue,  was  thrown  out  at  some  distanoe  below  the  ship- 
ping, and  brought  us  up  all  standing.  There  were 
between  us  and  the  shore,  and  we  hallooed  to 
men  to  come  and  take  us  off,  but  they  answered 
the  breakers  wcsre  too  rough*  The  rain  came  on 
again,  and  for  half  an  hour  we  stowed  ourselves  away 
nndcr  batches. 

As  soon  as  it  cleared  off  we  were  on  deofc,  and  in  a 
Httie  time  we  saw  a  fine  jolly-boat,  with  a  oocktwaln 
and  foor  men,  coasting  along  the  shore  against  a  rapid 
muent,  the  men  at  times  jumping  into  the  water,  and 
hanling  by  ropes  fixed  for  the  purpose.  We  hailed 
tem  in  English,  and  the  cockswain  answered"  in  the 
lame  language  that  it  was  too  roo^,  but  after  s  oon* 
saltation  with  the  sailors  they  pulled  toward  us,  and 
tMk  Mr.  Catberwood  and  me  on  board.  The  eoobt 
awain  was  the  mate  of  a  French  ship,  and  tpcke  Bag** 
tisli.  His  ship  was  to  sail  the  next  day,  and  he  was  go- 
ing to  take  in  some  large  turtles  which  lay  on  the  beach 
wtdting  for  him.  As  soon  as  we  struck  we  mounted  the 
slmnldeni  of  two  square-built  French  sailors,  and  weia 
sat  down  on  shore,  and  perhaps  in  our  whole  tour  wn 
Ware  nerer  so  happy  as  at  that  moment  in  being  rid 
«f  -  the  bungo. 

^The  town  eoitended  along  the  bank  of  the  lake.  Wd 
widlnd  the  whole  length  of  it,  saw  numerous  and  wa^ 
IHad  acoies,  cafis,  and  eren  baibeia'  shops,  and  at  tlw 
end  reastod  tlie  Ameiioan  sonani'fc    Twm 


890  INCIDENTS    or    T&ATBL. 

men  vrexe  sitting  on  the  portioOy  of  a  most  honelike  ap- 
pearance. One  was  Don  CSarloe  Russell,  the  ooaeul. 
The  face  of  the  other  was  fluniliar  to  me ;  and  leem- 
ing  that  we  had  come  from  Guatimala,  he  asked  news 
of  me,  which  I  was  most  happy  to  give  him  in  penaa. 
It  was  Captain  Fensley,  whose  acquaintance  I  had 
made  in  New- York  when  seeking  information  about 
that  country,  and  with  whcmi  I  had  spoken  of  sailing  to 
Campeachy;  but  at  the  moment  I  did  not  recognise 
him,  and  in  my  costume  from  the  interior  it  was  impos- 
sible for  him  to  recognise  me.  He  was  direct  from 
New- York,  and  gave  the  first  information  we  had  le- 
ceived  in  a  long  time  from  that  place,  with  budgets  of 
newspapers,  burdened  with  suspension  of  specie  pay- 
ments and  universal  ruin.  8(Hne  of  my  friends  had 
been  playing  strange  antics ;  but  in  the  important  mat-* 
ters  of  marriages  and  deaths  I  did  not  find  anjrthing 
give  me  either  joy  or  sorrow. 

Don  Carlos  Russell,  or  Mr.  Charles  Russell,  was 
native  of  Philadelphia,  married  to  a  Spanish  lady  o: 
large  fortune,  and,  though  long  absent,  received 
as  one  who  had  not  forgotten  his  home.  His  house 
his  table,  all  that  he  had,  even  his  purse,  were  at 
service.  Our  first  congratulations  over,  we  sat  down^ 
to  a  dinner  which  rivalled  that  of  our  friend  of  Totonica-- 
pan.  We  could  hardly  beUeve  ourselves  the  same  mis- 
erable beings  who  had  been  a  few  hours  before  tossing 
on  the  lake,  in  dread  alike  of  the  bottom  and  of  anoth- 
er night  on  board  the  bungo.  The  reader  must  have 
gone  through  what  we  had  to  form  any  idea  of  our  en- 
joyment. The  negro  who  served  us  at  table  had  been 
waiter  at  the  house  of  an  acquaintance  in  Broadway ; 
we  seemed  but  a  step  from  home,  and  at  night  we  had 
clean  sheets  furnished  us  by  our  host. 


M.A.CVVA.  d9i 


CHAPTER  XXm. 

to  Mvida.— aiML--A  naw  Mode  of  OoiMfeyttBt.—TOato  of 
HmmcMmL— Arrifil  at  Merklft.— Aspect  of  the  Guj.—Flte  of  Corpas  Dom- 
ItaL— Tte  CatbednL— The  ProceMioii.-^Beaaty  and  Simplicity  of  the  Indiaa 
Wi—  FaUce  of  the  Biahop.— The  Theatre.— Joamey  to  UzmaL— Ha- 
of  VayalqueL— Valne  of  Water.— Condition  of  the  Indiaike  fTi  Yuca- 
pecoliar  kind  of  Coach.— Hacienda  of  Mneuyche.— A  beantiftd  Orotta 


Thb  town  of  Lagima  stands  on  the  island  of  Cannen^ 
fiiuch  is  about  seven  leagues  long,  and  whioh,  with  an* 
other  island  about  four  leagues  in  length,  separates  the 
Lake  of  Tenninos  from  the  Qulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  the 
depfit  of  the  great  logwood  country  in  the  interior,  and 
ft  dosen  vessels  were  then  in  port  awaiting  cargoes  for 
EiDope  and  the  United  States.  The  town  is  well 
built  and  thriving ;  its  trade  has  been  trammelled  by 
the  oppressive  regulations  of  the  Central  govemment|. 
but  it  had  made  its  pronunciamento,  disarmed  and  driv* 
•a  out  the  garrison,  and  considered  itself  independent^ 
subject  only  to  the  state  government  of  Yucatan.  The 
anchorage  is  shoal  but  safe,  and  easy  of  access  for  ves* 
seb  not  drawing  over  twelve  or  thirteen  feet  of  water* 

We  Qould  have  passed  some  time  with  satisfaction  in 
fasting  and  strolling  over  the  island,  but  oiv  journey 
HM  not  yet  ended.  Qur  next  move  was  fbr  Merida,. 
fbe  o^iital  of  Yucatan.  The  nearest  port  was  Cam* 
peaot^,  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  distant,  and  the 
voyage  was*  usually  made  by  bungo,  coasting  along  the 
stoco  of  the  open  sea.  With  our  experience  of  bun-^ 
goea  this  was  most  disheartening.  Nevertheless,  this 
would  have  been  our  unhappy  lot  but  for  the  kindness 
oC  Mr.  Russell  and  Captain  Fensley.  The  latter  was 
bound  directly  to  New- York,  and  his  course  lay  alcmg 


992  INCIDENTS    or   TRATEA. 

the  coast  of  Yucatan.  Personally  he  waa  disposed  to 
do  all  in  his  power  to  serve  us,  but  there  might  be  some 
risk  in  putting  into  port  to  land  us.  Knowing  his  fa- 
vourable disposition,  we  could  not  urge  him ;  bat  Mr. 
Russell  was  bis  consignee,  and  by  charter-party  had  a 
right  to  detain  him  ten  days,  and  intended  to  do  so ;  but 
he  offered  to  load  him  in  two  days  upon  conditicm  of 
his  taking  us  on  board,  and,  as  Campeachy  was  blod[- 
aded,  landing  us  at  Sisal,  sixty  miles  beyond,  and  the 
seaport  of  Merida.  Captain  Fensley  assentedi  and  we 
were  relieved  from  what  at  the  time  we  should  have 
considered  a  great  ealamity. 

In  regard  to  the  project  for  the  purchase  of  the  mins 
of  Palenque,  which  I  have  before  referred  to,  Mx.  Rns* 
sell  entered  into  it  warmly ;  and  with  a  generosity  I  ean- 
not  help  Bnentioning,  hardly  to  be  expected  from  <me 
so  long  from  home,  requested  to  be  held  liable  for  two 
thousand  dollars  as  part  of  the  cost  of  introducing  them 
into  the  United  States.  In  pursuance  of  my  previous 
arrangement  I  wrote  to  the  prefect,  advising  him  of 
Mr.  Russell's  co-operation,  and  referring  him  to  Paw- 
ling as  my  agent  in  settling  the  details  of  the  purchase. 
This  was  enclosed  in  a  letter  from  Mr.  Russell  to  the 
same  effect,  which  stated,  besides,  that  the  money  should 
be  paid  the  moment  it  was  required,  and  both,  with  full 
instructions,  were  given  to  Pawling.  The  interest  which 
Mr.  Russell  took  in  this  matter  gave  me  a  flattering 
hope  of  success,  and  but  for  him,  the  scheme  for  ma- 
king castings  would  have  failed  entirely.  He  was  en- 
gaged in  building  an  unusually  fine  house,  and  in  order 
to  finish  it  had  sent  to  Campeachy  for  plaster  of  Paris, 
but  not  finding  any  there,  had  imported  some  from  New- 
York.  Fortunately,  he  had  a  few  barrels  left ;  and  but 
for  this  accident-^there  was  none  nearer  than  Vera 


A    ViiOATING    HOMK.  S93 

Crus  or  New-Oileana— FawliEg's  journeyy  so  fei  as  le- 
Jated.  to  this  object,  would  have  been  fruitless.  We 
settled  the  details  of  sending  the  plaster  with  Pawling 
lo  Palenque,  receiving  and  shipping  the  castings  to  me 
at  New- York,  and  on  Saturday  morning  at  seven 
o'lolock  bade  farewell  to  Mr.  Eussell,  and  embarked  on 
board  the  Gabrielacho.  Pawling  accompanied  us  out- 
ride the  bar,  and  we  took  leave  of  him  as  he  got  on 
.  board  the  pilot-boat  to  return.  We  had  gone  through 
.flHoh  rough  scenes  together  since  he  overtook  us  at  the 
loot  of  the  Sierra  Madre,  that  it  may  be  supposed  we 
did  not  separate  with  indifference.  Juan  was  still  with 
VS|  for  the  first  time  at  sea,  and  wondering  where  we 
would  take  him  next. 

-  The  Gtabrielacho  was  a  beautiful  brig  of  about  one 
hundred  and  sixty  tons,  built  under  Captain  Fensley's 
^own  direction,  one  half  belonging  to  himself,  and  fitted 
mp  neatly  and  tastefully  as  a  home.  He  had  no  house 
on  shore ;  one  daughter  was  at  boarding-school  in  the 
United  States,  and  the  rest  of  his  family,  consisting  of 
bis  wife  and  a  little  daughter  about  three  years  old, 
was  with  him  on  board.  Since  his  marriage  seven 
years  before,  his  wife  had  remained  but  one  year  on 
riuHre,  and  she  determined  not  to  leave  him  again  as 
long  as  he  followed  the  seas,  while  he  vras  resolved 
that  every  voyage  should  be  the  last,  and  looked  for- 
ward to  the  consummation  of  every  sailor's  hopes,  a 
<good  farm.  His  daughter  Vicentia,.  or  po<Nr  Centy,  as 
she  called  herself,  was  the  pet  of  all  on  board ;  and 
we  had  twelve  passengers,  interesting  to  the  Common 
Council  of  New-York,  being  enormous  turtles,  one  of 
wbioh  the  captain  hoped  would  gladden  the  hearts  of 
Aa  &thers  of  the  city  at  their  fourth  of  July  dinner. 

The  reader  cannot  realize  the  satisfaction  with  which 

Vol.  n.— 3  D 


SM  INCIDBNT8     or    TAAYIL. 

we  found  ourselves  in  saoh  oomfortahle  qmrten  M 
board  this  brig.  We  had  an  afternoon  squaU,  but  ira 
considered  ourselves  merely  passengers,  and,  witha  good 
vessel,  master,  and  crew,  kngfaed  at  a  distant  bimgo 
crawling  close  along  the  shore,  and  for  the  fixat  time 
feared  that  the  voyage  would  end  too  soon.  Perhaps 
no  captain  ever  had  passengers  so  perfectly  eontcatad 
under  storrn  or  calm.  Oh  you  who  cross  the  Atlantie 
in  packet-ships,  complaining  of  discomforts,  and  thread 
en  to  publish  the  captain  because  the  porter  does  bo( 
bold  out,  may  yon  one  day  be  caught  on  board  a  bon- 
go loaded  with  logwood  I 

The  wear  and  tear  of  our  wardrobe  was  manifest  to 
the  most  indifferent  observer :  and  Mrs.  Fensley^  pity- 
ing our  ragged  condition,  sewed  on  our  buttons,  darn- 
ed, patched,  and  mended  us,  and  put  us  in  order  for 
another  expedition.  On  the  third  morning  Captain 
Fensley  told  us  we  had  passed  Campeachy  during  the 
night,  and,  if  the  wind  held,  would  reach  Sisal  that  day. 
At  eight  o'clock  we  came  in  sight  of  the  long  low  coast, 
and  moving  steadily  toward  it,  at  a  little  before  dark 
anchored  off  the  port,  about  two  miles  from  the  shore. 
One  brig  was  lying  there,  a  Spanish  trader,  bound  to 
Havana,  and  the  only  vessel  in  port.  The  anchorage 
is  an  open  roadstead  outside  of  the  breakers,  which  is 
considered  perfectly  safe  except  <^ing  a  northeast 
storm,  when  Spanish  vessels  always  slip  their  cables 
and  stand  out  to  sea. 

In  the  uncertainty  whether  what  we  were  going  to 
see  was  worth  the  trouble,  and  the  greater  uncertainty 
of  a  conveyance  when  we  wanted  it,  it  was  tr^ijig  to 
leave  a  good  vessel  which  in  twenty  days  might  carry 
us  home.  Nevertheless,  wc  made  the  exertion.  It  was 
dusk  when  we  left  the  vessel.     We  landed  at  the  end 


8  1  S  A  L. 

of  a  long  wooden  dock,  built  out  on  the  open  shore  of 
dto  aeai  where  we  were  challenged  by  a  soldier.  At 
Ae  Kead  of  the  pier  was  a  guard  and  custom  honscy 
HAfere  an  ofEcer  presented  himself  to  escort  us  to  the 
eolmnandant.  On  the  right,  near  the  shore,  was  an 
«ild  Spanish  fortress  with  turrets.  A  soldier,  barely 
^iiBtingmshable  on  the  battlements,  challenged  us ;  and, 
pttwing  the  quartel,  we  were  challenged  again.  The 
answer,  as  in  Central  America,  was  *'  Patria  libre." 
The  tone  of  the  place  was  warlike,  the  Liberal  party 
dominant.  The  revolution,  as  in  all  the  other  places, 
had  been  conducted  in  a  spirit  of  moderation ;  but  when 
the  garrison  was  driven  out,  the  commandant,  who  had 
been  very  tyrannical  and  oppressive,  was  taken,  and 
the  character  of  the  revolution  would  have  been  stained 
by  his  murder,  but  he  was  put  on  board  a  bungo  and 
escaped.  We  were  well  received  by  the  conmiandant; 
and  Captain  Fensley  took  us  to  the  house  of  an  ac- 
quaintance, where  we  saw  the  captain  of  the  brig  in  the 
offing,  which  was  to  sail  in  eight  days  for  Havana,  and 
ab  other  vessel  was  expected  for  a  long  time.  We 
made  arrangements  for  setting  out  the  next  day  ion 
Merida,  and  early  in  the  morning  accompanied  the 
cq>tain  to  the  pier,  saw  him  embark  in  a  bungo,  waited 
till  he  got  on  board,  and  saw  the  brig,  with  a  fine 
breese  and  every  sail  set,  stand  out  into  the  ocean  for 
home.  We  turned  our  backs  upon  it  with  regret. 
Tliare  was  nothing  to  detain  us  at  Sisal.  Though  pret- 
tily situated  on  the  seashore  and  a  thriving  place,  it 
was  merely  the  depot  of  the  exports  and  imports  of 
Merida.     At  two  o'clock  we  set  out  for  the  capital. 

We  were  now  in  a  country  as  different  firom  Central 
America  as  if  separated  by  the  Atlantic,  and  we  began 
ttor  jonmey  with  an  entirely  new  mode  of  cGnveyanoe. 


INCIDENTS    Of    TEATKL. 


It  waa  in  a  vehicle  called  a  caltehe,  built  BomewiiAt 
like  the  oldfaahioned  cab,  but  very  large,  oambenooMi 
made  for  rough  roads,  without  springs,  and  painted  redf 
green,  and  yellow.  One  cowhide  trunk  for  eaoh  was 
strapped  on  behind,  and  above  them,  reaching  to  Iha 
top  of  the  cal6che,  was  secured  a  pile  of  saeata  tor  4a 
horses.  The  whole  of  this  load,  with  Mr.  Catlierwood 
and  me,  waa  drawn  by  a  single  horse,  having  a*  rider  ca 
his  back  Two  other  horses  followed  for  change,  har- 
nessed, and  each  with  a  boy  riding  him.  The  road 
was  perfectly  level,  and  on  a  causeway  a  little  elevated 
above  the  plain,  which  was  stony  and  covered  with 
scrub-trees.  At  first  it  seemed  a  great  luxury  to  roD 
along  in  a  wheel  carriage ;  but,  with  the  roughness  of 
the  road,  and  the  caltehe  being  without  springs,  in  s 
little  while  this  luxury  began  to  be  questionable. 

After  the   magnificent  scenery  of  Central  Ameries 
the  country  was  barren  and  uninteresting,  but  we  per- 
ceived the  tokens  of  a  rich  interior  in  large  cars  drawn 
by  mules  five  abreast,  with  high  wheels  ten  or  twelve 
feet  apart,  and  loaded  with  hemp,  bagging,  wax,  honey, 
and  ox  and  deer  skins.     The  first  incident  of  the  road 
was  changing  horses,  which  consisted  in  taking  out  the 
horse  in  the  shafts  and  putting  in  one  of  the  otherSf 
already  in  a  sweat.     This  occurred  twice ;  and  at  one 
o'clock  we  entered  the  village  of  Hunucama,  pleasantly 
situated,  imbowered  among  trees,  with  a  large  plaza,  at 
that  time  decorated  with  an  arbour  of  evergreens  all 
around,  preparatory  to  the  great  fete  of  Corpus  Christi, 
which  was  to  be  celebrated  the  next  day.     Here  we 
took  three  fresh  horses ;  and  changing  them  as  before, 
and  passing  two  villages,  through  a  vista  two  miles  long 
saw  the  steeples  of  Merida,  and  at  six  o'clock  rode  into 
the  city.     The  houses  were  well  built,  with  balconied 


umwLi'DA.  897 

windowsi  and  many  had  two  stones.  The  streets  wera 
ahan,  and  many  people  in  them  well  dreasedi  animatedy 
snd  cheerful  in  appearance ;  caUches  fencifully  painU 
ed  and  eurtained,  haTmg  ladies  in  them  handsomriy^ 
dsessedy  without  hats,  and  their  hair  ornamented  with 
flowers,  gave  it  an  air  of  gayety  and  beanty  that,  after 
Ae  sombre  towns  through  which  we  had  passed,  was 
Csflemating  and  almost  poetic.  No  place  had  yet  made 
so  agreeaUe  a  first  impression ;  and  there  was  a  hotel 
IB  a  large  building  kept  by  Donna  Micaela,  driving  np 
to  wfaieh  we  felt  as  if  by  some  accident  we  had  fallen 
upon  a  European  city. 

The  reader  will  perhaps  be  surprised,  but  I  had  a 
fiiand  in  Merida  who  expected  me.  Before  embaric^ 
iag  firom  New- York,  I  had  been  in  the  habit  of  dining 
at  a  Spanish  hotel  in  Fulton-street,  frequented  prin* 
oipelly  by  Spanish  Americans,  at  which  place  I  had 
met  a  gentleman  of  Merida,  and  learned  that  he  was 
the  pn^rietor  of  the  ruins  of  Uxmal.  As  yet  I  knew 
nothing  of  the  position  or  clmracter  of  my  friend,  but  I 
soon  found  that  everybody  in  Merida  knew  Don  Simoii 
Bmb.  In  the  evening  we  called  at  his  house.  It  was 
a  large,  aristocratic-looking  mansion  of  dark  gray  stone, 
With  balconied  windows,  occupying  nearly  the  half  of 
one  side  of  the  plaza.  Unfortunately,  he  was  then  at 
Uxmal ;  but  we  saw  his  wife,  father,  mother,  and  sisters, 
the  house  being  a  family  residence,  and  the  different 
members  of  it  having  separate  haciendas.  They  had 
heard  from  him  of  my  intended  visit,  and  received  me 
ss  an  aoquaintance.  Don  Simon  was  expected  back  in 
a^law  days,  but,  in  the  hope  of  finding  him  at  Uxmal, 
we  determined  to  go  on  immediately.  Donna  Joaqni- 
aas-Us  mother,  promised  to  make  all  necessary  ar- 
rangements for  the  journey,  and  to  send  a  servant  wiA 


898  mciDSKTB    OV   TSATBL. 

08.  It  was  long  since  we  peased  so  pleasant  an  eren- 
ing ;  we  saw  many  persons  who  in  appeaanoe  and 
manner  would  do  credit  to  any  society,  and  left  widi  a 
strong  disposition  to  make  some  stay  in  Merida. 

The  plaza  presented  a  gay  scene.  It  was  the  eve  oC 
the  Ute  of  El  Corpus.  Two  sides  of  the  plasa  wess 
occupied  by  corridors,  and  the  others  were  adoned 
with  arbours  of  evergreens,  among  which  lij^ita  wen 
interspersed.  Oay  parties  were  promenading  mMhr 
them,  and  along  the  corridors  and  in  front  of  the  honsss 
were  placed  chairs  and  benches  fcv  the  use  irf  the  prom- 
enaders,  and  all  who  chose  to  take  them. 

The  city  of  Merida  contains  about  twenty  thoosand 
inhabitants.    It  is  founded  on  the  site  of  an  old  Indisn 
Tillage,  and  dates  from  a  few  years  after  the  conqmst 
In  different  parts  of  the  city  are  the  remains  of  Indian 
buildings.    As  the  capital  of  the  powerful  State  of  Yuca- 
tan, it  had  always  enjoyed  a  high  degree  of  considera- 
tion in  the  Mexican  Confederacy,  and  throughout  the 
republic  is  famed  for  its  sabios  or  learned  men.     The 
State  of  Yucatan  had  declared  its  independence  of  Mex- 
ico ;  indeed,  its  independence  was  considered  achieved. 
News  had  been  received  of  the  capitulation  of  Can- 
peachy  and  the  surrender  of  the  Central  garrison.    The 
last  remnant  of  despotism  was  rooted  out,  and  the  cap- 
ital was  in  the  first  flush  of  successful  revolution,  the 
pride  of  independence.     Removed  by  position,  it  was 
manifest  that  it  would  be  no  easy  matter  for  Mexico  to 
reconquer  it ;  and  probably,  like  Texas,  it  is  a  limb  fo^ 
ever  lopped  from  that  great,  but  feeble  and  distracted 
republic.     It  was  pleasant  to  find  that  political  animos- 
ities were  not  cherished  with  the  same  ferocity;  and 
Centralists  and  Liberals  met  like  men  of  opponite  pa^ 
ties  at  home. 


#  t 


Tke  next  day  was  the  £Bte  of  CkffpoB  Domini  ihioiiglu 
ant  all  Spanish  America,  the  greatest  in  the  Catholie 
GOnsEieh.  Early  in  the  mornings  al  the  tolling  of  the 
beUy  we  went  to  the  Cathedral,  which,  with  the  palaea 
of  the  bishop,  occupied  one  entire  side  of  the  planu 
The  interior  was  grand  and  imposing,  having  a  raulted 
voof  of  stone,  and  two  rows  of  lofty  stone  pillars ;  the 
ehsor  was  in  the  centre,  the  altar  richly  adorned  with 
ailTBr;  but  the  great  attraction  was  in  the  ladies  kneel- 
ing before  the  altars,  with  white  or  black  veils  laid  over 
the  top  of  the  head,  some  of  them  of  saintlike  purity  and 
baanty,  in  dress,  manners,  and  appearance  realizing  the 
pieloies  of  Spamsh  romance.  Indeed,  the  Spanish  la^* 
diea  appear  nowhere  so  lovely  as  in  church. 
•  The  associations  of  one  of  my  acquaintances  having 
tamed  out  so  well,  I  determined  to  present  a  letter  of 
introdnotion  from  friends  in  New- York  to  Don  Joaqoim 
Ghitienes,  whose  family-name  stood  high  in  Merida,  and 
wiio,  to  my  surprise,  spoke  English  quite  as  well  as  we 
did.  He  had  gone  the  rounds  of  society  in  Europe  and 
the  United  States,  and,  like  a  good  citizen,  had  returned 

j^i^'mxnj  one  of  the  belles  and  beauties  of  his  own  coun- 
'trf •    His  family  was  from  Merida,  but  he  himself  was 

v-t^vt^lMtadent  at  Campeachy ;  and,  being  a  prominent  Cen- 
•  iniist,  had  left  that  city  on  account  of  its  blockade  by 
the-'Federahsts,  and  in  apprehensions  of  excesses  that 
might  be  committed  against  obnoxious  individuals  should 
the  pkoe  &11  into  their  hands.  From  his  house  we  went 
Id  the  i^aza  to  see  the  procession.  After  those  we  had 
seen  in  Ghutimala  this  was  inferior,  and  there  were  no 
devils;  but  the  gathering  of  people  under  the  arbonr 
and  in  the  corridors  presented  a  beaotifiil  spectacle. 
Thaore  was  a  large  collection  of  Indians,  both  men  and 
women,  the  best-looking  race  we  had  seen,  and  all  were 

36 


400  INCIDSN1S    or    TEATXL. 

neatly  dressed.  In  the  whole  crowd  there  was  not  m 
single  garment  that  wds  not  clean  that  day,  and  wo 
were  told  that  any  Indian  too  poor  to  appear  in  a  fitting 
dress  that  morning  would  be  too  proud  to  appear  at 
all.  The  Indian  women  were  really  handsome;  aU 
were  dressed  in  white,  with  a  red  border  aronnd  the 
neck,  sleeves,  and  hem  of  their  garments,  and  their 
faces  had  a  mild,  contented,  and  amiable  expresaion ; 
the  higher  class  were  seated  under  the  arboura  before 
the  doors  of  the  houses  and  along  the  corridors,  elegant- 
ly attired,  without  hats,  and  with  veils  or  flowers  in  their 
hair,  combining  an  elegance  of  appearance  with  simpli- 
city of  manners  that  made  almost  a  scene  of  poetic 
beauty;  and  they  had  an  air  of  gayety  and  freedom 
from  disquietude,  so  different  from  the  careworn  &ces 
of  Guatimala,  that  they  seemed  as  if  what  Grod  intend- 
ed them  to  be,  happy.  In  fact,  at  this  place  it  wonld 
have  been  no  hardship  to  comply  with  the  condition 
of  purchasing  Palenque ;  and  yet  perhaps  some  of  the 
effect  of  this  strong  impression  was  only  the  result  of 
comparison. 

After  the  procession  Don  Joaquim  proposed  to  caK 
either  upon  the  bishop  or  a  lady  who  had  a  beautifn. 
daughter.  The  bishop  was  the  greatest  man  in  Merida 
and  lived  in  the  greatest  style ;  but,  determined  to  make 
the  best  of  our  day  in  Merida,  we  chose  the  other  branch 
of  the  alternative.  In  the  evening,  however,  we  calle. 
upon  him.  His  palace  was  adjoining  the  Cathedral 
and  before  the  door  was  a  large  cross ;  the  entrancf. 
was  through  a  courtyard  with  two  rows  of  corridors 
We  ascended  to  a  second  flight,  and  entered  an  ante 
room,  where  we  were  received  by  a  well-dressed  oiE 
cial,  who  notified  the  bishop  of  our  coming,  and  shor& 


Tax   bishop's   palace.  401 

afterward  condncted  us  through  three  stately  saloons 
with  high  ceilings  and  lighted  with  lamps,  in  one  of 
which  was  a  chair  of  state  covered  with  red  damask, 
which  was  carried  up  on  the  wall  behind  and  ceiling 
oyer  it.  From  the  last  a  door  opened  into  a  large  room 
cdegantly  fitted  up  as  a  sleeping  apartment,  in  one  cor- 
ner of  which  \vas  a  large  silver  wash-hand  basin  with 
a  alver  pitcher ;  and  in  the  centre,  not  a  moveable 
or  not  very  easily  moved,  sat  the  bishop,  a  man  sev- 
eral feet  rouad,  handsomely  dressed,  and  in  a  chair 
made  to  fit,  stuffed  and  covered  with  red  n^orocco, 
neither  pinching  him  nor  permitting  him  to  roll,  with 
a  large,  firmly-secured  projecting  ear-piece  on  each 
■de  to  catch  his  head  during  the  siesta.  It  had  arms 
bfoad  enough  to  support  books  and  papers,  and  seem- 
ed the  work  of  a  man  of  genius.  The  lines  of  the 
bidiqp's  face,  however,  indicated  a  man  of  high  tone 
and  character,  and  his  conversation  sustained  the  im- 
pfession.  He  was  a  CentraUst,  and  a  great  politician ; 
and  qpoke  of  letters  from  generals,  sieges,  blockades, 
and  battles,  in  tones  which  brought  up  a  vivid  picture 
o£  flome  priestly  warrior  or  grand  master  of  the  Temple. 
In  conclusion,  he  said  that  his  influence,  his  house,  and 
his  iabk  were  at  our  service,  asked  us  to  name  a  day 
fost  dining  with  him,  and  said  he  would  invite  some 
friends  to  meet  us.  We  had  many  trials  in  our  jour- 
ney,  and  it  was  not  the  least  to  decline  this  invitation ; 
but  we  had  some  hope  that  we  might  be  able  to  share 
his  lioq>itality  on  our  return  from  Uxmal. 

FnHn  the  bishop's  palace  we  went  to  the  theatre,  a 
ktge  bnilding  built  expressly  for  the  purpose,  with  two 
ronvs  of  boxes  and  a  pit.  The  upper  tier  of  boxes  was 
private.  The  prima  donna  was  a  lady  who  sat  next 
meat  dinner  at  the  hotel ;  but  I  had  better  es4>loyment 

Vol.  II.— 3  E 


i02  INCISSKTS      or    TSATSL. 

than  attending  to  the  perfonnancey  in  ccHivenaliaB  with 
ladies  who  would  have  graced  any  circle.  One  of 
them  told  me  that  there  was  to  be  a  tertolia  and  a  bag- 
lio  at  a  comitry-house  near  the  town  in  a  £ew  dajs, 
and  to  forego  this  was  a  harder  trial  than  the  loss  of  the 
bishop's  dinner.  Altogether,  the  evening  at  the  thealia 
consummated  the  satisfaction  of  the  only  day  we  peasad 
in  Merida,  so  that  it  remains  impressed  on  my  mind  in 
bright  relief  to  months  of  dulneas. 

The  next  morning  at  half  past  six  weset  out  Ibr  Ux« 
mal  oi\  horseback,  escorted  by  a  servant  of  Senoir  Peon, 
with  Indians  before  us,  one  of  whom  carried  a  load  not 
provided  by  us,  in  which  a  box  of  claret  was  conq>ieiK 
ous.  Leaving  the  city,  we  entered  upon  a  level  stoBj 
road,  which  seemed  one  bed  of  limestone,  cut  throng^ 
a  forest  of  scrub  trees.  At  the  distance  of  a  lei^ue  we 
saw  through  a  vista  in  the  trees  a  large  hacienda  belonging 
to  the  Peon  family,  the  entrance  to  which  was  by  a  large 
gate  into  a  cattle-yard.  The  house  was  built  of  stone,  and 
had  a  front  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  with  an 
arcade  running  the  whole  length.  It  was  raised  about 
twenty  feet,  and  at  the  foot  was  a  large  water-tron^ 
extending  the  whole  length,  about  ten  feet  wide  and  of 
the  same  depth,  filled  with  water  for  cattle.  On  the 
left  was  a  flight  of  stone  steps,  leading  to  a  stone  plat- 
form  on  which  the  hacienda  stood.  At  the  end  of  this 
structure  was  an  artificial  reservoir  or  tank,  also  buih 
of  stone  and  cemented,  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  square,  and  perhaps  twenty  feet  deep.  At  the  foot 
of  the  wall  of  the  tank  was  a  plantation  of  henniken,  a 
species  of  aloe,  from  the  fibres  of  which  hemp  is  made. 
The  style  of  the  house,  the  strong  and  substantial  char- 
acter of  the  reservoir,  and  its  apparent  costlinessi  gave 
an  imposing  character  to  the  hacienda. 


▲    NOB  LB     aACXXNDA.  408 

'  At  this  place  our  Indian  carriers  left  us,  and  we  took 
others  from  the  hacienday  with  whom  we  continued 
three,  leagues  farther  to  another  hacienda  of  the  family | 
of  much  the  same  character,  where  we  stoppled  to  break- 
fiuat.  This  over,  we  set  out  again,  and  by  this  time  it  had 
become  desperately  hot. 

The  road  was  very  rough,  over  a  bed  of  stone  thinly 
covered,  with  barely  soil  enough  for  the  growth  of  scrub- 
trees;  our  saddles  were  of  a  new  fashion,  and  most 
painfully  tryinjg  to  those  unused  to  them ;  the  heat  was 
very  oppressive,  and  the  leagues  very  long,  till  we 
reached  another  hacienda,  a  vast,  irregular  pile  of  build- 
iiig9,of  dark  gray  stone,  that  might  have  been  the  castle 
of  a  German  baron  in  feudal  times.  Each  of  these 
>|ftft?»n(^«»<*  had  an  Indian  name  ;  this  was  called  the  ha- 
cienda of  Vayalquex,  and  it  was  the  only  one  of  which 
Donna  Joaqoina,  in  speaking  of  our  route,  had  made  any 
particular  mention.  The  entrance  was  by  a  large  stone 
gateway,  veith  a  pyramidal  top,  into  a  long  lane,  on  the 
right  of  which  was  a  shed,  built  by  Don  Simon  since  his 
return  from  the  United  States  as  a  ropewalk  for  menu* 
tacturing  hemp  raised  on  the  hacienda ;  and  there  was 
one  arrangement  which  added  very  much  to  the  effect^ 
and  wbich.I  did  not  observe  anywhere  else :  the  cattle- 
yprd  and  water-tanks  were  on  one  side  and  out  of  sight* 
We  dismounted  under  the  shade  of  noble  trees  in  front 
of  the  house,  and  ascended  by  a  flight  of  broad  stone 
steps  to  a  corridor  thirty  feet  wide,  with  large  mattings,. 
wjUksh  could  be  rolled  up,  or  dropped  as  an  awning  for 
prgteotion  against  the  sun  and  rain.  On  one  side  the 
corridor  was  continued  around  the  building,  and  on  the 
other  it  conducted  to  the  door  of  a  church  having  a 
large  cross  over  it,  and  within  ornamented  with  figures 
ike  the  churches  in  towns,  for  the  tenants  of  the  ha^ 


3< 
f 


* 


4M  i^ci 


Tke  wboLe  escmbUskmcHt  was  lordly  iD  ifit  q^ 
Ii  kid  fifteen  kimdred  Indiaii  teDants, 
tecs.<d  *-o  i3m  fcadter  bj  a  soit  of  fendal  tenure,  aBd, 
»  she  m^ecds  of  ;he  nnster,  eaeoned  by  n  lioai^okl 
wetTWDX,  uie  wbc^  was  <«& 

We  h^  ioileo.  CEiexpeciedly  upon  a  state  of  thingi 
aev  a^d  pgcrs.ar.  The  peniiwala  of  Yucatan,  lying 
b<tv«ea  ibe  ba^i  c4  Campeachy  and  Hondurae,  is  i 
vast  pttm.  Caae  Cau>clie,  the  nortlieaMnn  point  of 
tae  peoissalft.  is  bo:  diiy-one  leagues  from  San  Anto- 
nio, tbe  w<$:<;iTi  extremiiv  of  the  Island  of  Cobs, 
whics.  »  5ij|:pcised  at  a  remoce  period  to  have  fanaed 
part  o:  ik^  Acnerxan  CoauneaL  The  soil  and  simo- 
sphere  are  ex:r«ci^ly  dry  ;  alo&g  ibe  whole  coast,  from 
Caiapeachy  lo  Cape  Caioche,  there  is  not  a  single  stream 
or  5pr:aig  c^'  fresh  ^laier.  The  interior  is  equally  desti- 
tuie :  and  wa:er  is  the  zdasi  Tsiuabie  posBession  in  the 
coanrv.  Pur.x.s  :he  seasoa  erf  ram*,  from  April  to  the 
er.i  c:  Ocv-'cer.  :Jiere  :«  a  sjpcrabundaDl  supply;  but 
!!!•?  *-::rvh.i::i:  >^:  ::  ".he  nex:  six  monihs  dries  up  the 
eirrr.  .wi  luil-ss  'x':.:iT  were  preserved  man  and  beast 
wo.:li  pe:^..  j^i  :ie  eouniry  re  depopulated.  All  the 
eu:errr-se  aiii  wcal-Ji  oi  the  landed  proprietors,  there* 
lofe.  areexer.ti  ;::  prvx^urmg  supplies  of  water,  as  with- 
o;:"  ::  the  luiiis  are  wor:h  zx>thing.  For  this  purpose 
ea.h  havier.dA  h.is  large  unks  and  reservoirs,  consirucl- 
ed  ar.i  kep;  up  ai  crea:  expense,  to  supply  water  lor 
SIX  moiiihs  :o  al^  dependant  upon  i:.  and  this  creates  a 
rela:x>n  w::h  :he  Indian  populaiion  which  places  the 
proprietor  sorae^ha:  in  uie  posiuon  of  a  lord  under  the 
c4d  leudal  svsie;:i. 

By  the  act  ot  i;idepeadence.  the  Indians  of  Mexico, 
as  well  as  the  white  populauon^  became  free.  No  man 
can  Miv  and  sell  another.  whateTer  mav  be  the  colour 


FBUDAI.    aSI.AT101fB.XII    TUCATAIT.  405 

of  his  skin ;  but  as  the  Indians  are  poor|  thriftlesBi  and 
improvident,  and  never  look  beyond  the  immediate 
houTi  they  are  obliged  to  attach  tbemselYes  to  some  ha- 
oienda  which  can  supply  their  wants ;  and,  in  return  lor 
the  privilege  of  using  the  water,  they  come  under  cei* 
tain  obligations  of  service  to  the  master,  which  place 
him  in  a  lordly  position ;  and  this  state  of  things,  grow- 
ing out  of  the  natural  condition  of  the  country,  exists,  I 
believe,  nowhere  in  Spanish  America  except  in  Yuca^ 
tan.  Each  hacienda  has  its  major-domo,  who  attends 
to  all  the  details  of  the  management  of  the  estate,  and 
ia  the  absence  of  the  master  is  his  viceroy,  and  has  the 
same  powers  over  the  tenants.  At  this  hacienda  the 
major-domo  was  a  young  Mestitzo,  and  had  fallen  into 
his  place  in  an  easy  and  natural  way  by  marrying  his 
piedeoessor's  daughter,  who  had  just  enough  white 
blood  to  elevate  the  dulness  of  the  Indian  face  into  one 
of  softness  and  sweetness ;  and  yet  it  struck  me  that  he 
thought  quite  as  much  of  the  place  he  got.  with  her  aa 
of  herself. 

It  would  have  been  a  great  satisfaction  to  pass  sev- 
eral days  at  this  lordly  hacienda;  but,  not  expecting 
anything  to  interest  us  on  the  road,  we  had  requested 
Donna  Joaquina  to  hurry  us  through,  and  the  servant 
lold  US  that  the  senora's  cnrders  were  to  conduct  us  to 
another  hacienda  of  the  family,  about  two  leagues  be- 
yond, to  sleep.  At  the  moment  we  were  particularly 
loth  to  leave,  on  account  of  the  fatigue  of  the  previous 
ride.  The  servant  suggested  to  the  major-domo  Uamar 
an  ooch6 ;  in  English,  to  <<  call  a  coach,"  which  the 
latter  j»oposed  to  do  if  we  wished  it.  We  made  a  few 
inqoiries,  and  said,  unhesitatingly  and  peremptorily,  in 
effect,  **  Oo  call  a  coach,  and  let  a  coach  be  called." 
The'  majopKiomo  ascended  by  a  flight  of  stone  steps 


406  INCIDBVTS    OF    TEATSL. 

oatside  to  the  bel£ry  of  the  «hiiroh|  whither  we  feUowed 
him ;  and,  tarning  around  with  a  moTement  and  tone 
of  voice  that  reminded  us  of  a  Mussulman  in  a  minaret 
calling  the  faithful  to  prayers,  he  called  foK  a  coadu 
The  roof  of  the  church,  and  of  the  whole  pile  of  build- 
ings connected,  was  of  stone  cemented,  firm  and  strong 
as  a  pavement.     The  sun  beat  intensely  upon  it,  and  for 
several  minutes  all  was  still.     At  length  we  saw  a  sin* 
gle  Indian  trotting  through  the  woods  toward  the  haci- 
enda, then  two  together,  and  in  a  quarter  of  an  hour 
diere  were  twenty  or  thirty.     These  were  the  hones; 
the  coaches  were  yet  growing  on  the  trees.     Six  In- 
dians were  selected  for  each  coach,  who,  with  a  few 
minutes'  use  of  the  machete,  cut  a  bundle  of  poles, 
which  they  brought  up  to  the  corridor  to  manulaotuze 
into  coaches.     This  was  done,  first,  by  laying  on  the 
ground  two  poles  about  as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist,  ten 
feet  long  and  three  feet  apart.     These  were  fiistened 
by  cross-sticks  tied  with  strings  of  unspun  hemp,  about 
two  feet  from  each  end ;   grass  hammocks  were  secu- 
red between  the  poles,  bows  bent  over  them  and  cov- 
ered with  light  matting,  and  the  coaches  were  made. 
We  placed  onr  poncbas  at  the  head  for  pillows,  crawl- 
ed inside,  and  lay  down.     The  Indians  took  off  litde 
cotton  shirts  covering  the  breast,  and  tied  them  around 
their  petates  as  hatbands.      Four  of  them  raised  up 
each  coach,  and  placed  the  end  of  the  poles  on  little 
cushions  on  their  shoulders.     We  bade  farewell  to  the 
major-domo  and  his  wife,  and,  feet  first,  descended  the 
steps  and  set  off  on  a  trot,  while  an  Indian  followed 
leading  the  horses.     In  the  great  relief  we  experienced 
we  forgot  our  former  scruples  against  making  beasts  of 
burden  of  men.    They  were  not  troubled  with  any  sensa 
of  indignity  or  abasement,  and  the  weight  was  not  much. 


JLKOTHBm     ITATSLT    RB8ZDBNCB.  407 

Tboe  won  no  moantsins;  only.some  little  iaequalititti 
niioli  temii^  the  head  lower  than  the  heelsi  and  th^ 
eddom  stombled.  In  this  way  they  carried  us  about 
thne  milesi  and  then  laid  us  down  gently  on  the  ground- 
Like  the  Indians  in  Merida,  they  were  a  fine-looking 
raee,  with  a  good  expression  of  countenancei  cheerfnli 
and  even  merry  in  their  toil.  They  were  amused  at  us 
because  we  could  not  talk  with  them.  There  is  no  di- 
versity of  Indian  languages  in  Yucatan ;  the  Maya  ia 
uniyersal,  and  all  the  Spaniards  speak  it. 

Having  wiped  o£f  the  perspiration  and  rested,  they 
took  us  up  again;  and,  lulled  by  the  quiet  movement 
and  the  regular  fall  of  the  Indians'  feet  upon  the  ear,  I 
fell  into  a  doze,  from  which  I  was  roused  by  stopping 
at  a  gate,  on  entering  which  I  found  we  were  advancing 
to  a  range  of  white  stone  buildings,  standing  on  an  ele* 
vation  about  twenty  feet  high,  which  by  measurement 
afterward  I  found  to  be  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
kmg,  with  an  imposing  corridor  running  the  whole 
length ;  and  on  the  extreme  right  of  the  building  the 
platform  was  continued  one  or  two  hundred  feet,  form- 
ing the  top  of  a  reservoir,  on  which  there  was  a  wind* 
laaa  with  long  arms;  and  Indian  women,  dressed  in 
viiute,  were  moving  round  in  a  circle,  drawing  water 
and  filling  their  water-jars.  This  was  called  the  haci« 
cnda  of  Mucuyche.  We  entered,  as  usual,  throu^  a 
large  oattle-yard.  At  the  foot  of  the  structure  on  which 
the  building  stood,  running  nearly  the  whole  lengthp 
was  a  gigantic  stone  tank,  about  eight  or  ten  feet  wide, 
•nd  of  the  same  depth,  filled  with  water.  We  were 
aarried  up  an  inclined  stone  platform  about  the  centre 
of  the  range  of  buildings,  which  consisted  of  three  die- 
tiilct  sets,  eaoh  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  front.  In 
that  on  the  left  was  the  church,  the  door  of  which  was 


.> 


^iMdy'^ito.    The  wfad6»i|jpu*<Mai*rf-*b|p 

AttlgB^Md  W^MOM  M^r  iB»tf  *^< 


fMt  long,  aMl  oae'on  eub  side,  oonttnnnilMlu^i  ihdbl 
fDffQr  feet  long.'  eaeh,  «nd'  a  nofek  "eoirider  -eMBodBd 
along  the  whole  front  and  fear» 

We  bad  an  hour  of  dajli^t,  whicb  I  oovUlittTei 
ployed  very  satisfactorily  on  the  qpot^  bnt  the 
ttged  ns  to  go  immediately  and  see  a  eeaote.  Whit  a 
eenote  was  we  had  no  idea,  and  Mr.  G.,  being  maoh 
frtigoed,  turned  into  a  hammodc ;  bnt,  imWillnig  tplma 
anything  where  all  was  struige  and  anezpeded^  I  fot 
lowed  the  servant,  crossed  thevbof  of  the  leesifuii,  aa- 
oeated  as  hard  as  stone,  passed  on  to  an  apaa  wak 
Itailt  of  stone,  covered  with  oement-^nsidia  aikh«iM^ 
Aont  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  aqnare  and  twenty  fsat 
diep,  filled  with  water,  in  which  twenty-  er  tharty  ift» 
lPisne"ware  swimming;  and,  descending  to  tta^Aitl  #f 
jgbs  tsak,  at  tha'distanoe  of  about  a  hondnd-  yaMs 
fHM  to'a  large  npsning  in  the  gmaadfrntt-m^htmi^ 


▲    BTIiTAN    OROTTO.  409 

M^t  of  more  than  fifty  steps ;  descending  which,  I  saw 
DBflaEpectedly  a  spectacle  of  such  extraordinary  beauty, 
tkat  I  sent  the  serrant  back  to  tell  Mr.  Catherwood  to 
Dome  to  me  forthwith,  if  he  had  to  be  carried  in  his 
liaiiimock.  It  was  a  large  cavern  or  grotto,  with  a  roof 
of/lvoken,  overhanging  rock,  high  enough  to  give  an  air 
of  wildness  and  grandeur,  impenetrable  at  midday  to 
Am  son's  rays,  and  at  the  bottom  water  pure  as  crystal, 
itill  and  deep,  resting  upon  a  bed  of  white  limestone 
rocsk.  It  was  the  very  creation  of  romance ;  a  bathing- 
plaoe  for  Diana  and  her  nymphs.  Ghrecian  poet  never 
imagined  so  beautiful  a  scene.  It  was  almost  a  profa- 
nationi  but  in  a  few  minutes  we  were  swimming  around 
the  rooky  basin  with  feelings  of  boyish  exultation,  only- 
regretting  that  such  a  freak  of  nature  was  played  where 
so  few  could  enjoy  its  beauties.  On  a  nobleman's 
estate  in  England  it  would  *be  above  all  price.  The 
bath  reinvigorated  our  firames.  It  was  after.dark  when 
we  returned ;  hammocks  were  waiting  for  us,  and  very 
soon  we  were  in  a  profound  sleep. 
Vol.  IL— 3F 


410  IKCIDBJITS    or    TBATBI. 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Jooniej  TMDBMd.— Anival  tk  Paanal— Hacienda  of  VnmL—Majar^daam.-' 
Adiwtana  of  a  young  Spniaid^— Vfaitto  tba  Bafawcf  VnaaL-^lm  V^ 

of  the  Roina.— Chaxaetar  of  the  Iiidiaiii.--Dikaik  of  Had^ 
Caae.— lUneat  of  Mr.  Catherwood.— Breaking  op. 

At  daybreak  the  next  mornings  with  new  Indianfl 
and  a  guide  on  horseback  from  the  hacienda,  we  ran- 
med  our  journey*  The  sarface  of  the  coontry  was  the 
same,  limestone  with  scrub  trees.  There  was  not  soil 
enough  to  absorb  the  water,  which  rested  in  puddles  in 
the  hollows  of  the  stones.  At  nine  o'clock  we  reached 
another  hacienda,  smaller  than  the  last,  but  still  having 
a  lordly  appearance,  where,  as  before,  the  women  were 
drawing  water  by  a  wheel.  The  major-domo  ezprened 
his  sense  of  the  honour  conferred  upon  him  by  our  visit, 
and  his  anxiety  to  serve  us,  gave  us  a  breakfast  of  milk, 
tortillas,  and  wild  honey,  and  furnished  us  with  other 
Indians  and  a  guide.  We  mounted  again ;  very  soon 
the  sun  became  intensely  hot ;  there  were  no  trees  to 
shade  us,  and  we  suffered  excessively.  At  half  past 
twelve  we  passed  some  mounds  of  ruins  a  little  off  the 
road,  but  the  sun  was  so  scorching  that  we  could  not 
stop  to  examine  them,  and  at  two  o'clock  we  reached 
Uxmal.  Little  did  I  think,  when  I  made  the  acquaint- 
ance of  my  unpretending  friend  at  the  Spanish  hotel  in 
Fulton-street,  that  I  should  ride  upward  of  fifty  miles 
on  his  family  estates,  carried  by  his  Indians,  and  break- 
fasting, dining,  and  sleeping  at  his  lordly  haciendas, 
while  the  route  marked  out  for  our  return  would  bring 
us  to  others,  one  of  which  was  larger  than  any  we  had 


AmItlTJLL    AT    UXMAL.  411 


Men.  The  family  of  Peoiii  under  the  Spanish 
i«Ay  had  given  govemon  to  the  province  of  Yncatan* 
On  tiie  establiBhment  of  indepeadence,  its  present  head, 
ft  etanoh  Royalist,  retired  in  disgust  from  all  kinds  of 
employment,  and  the  whole  of  the  large  feutnily  estates 
irare  managed  by  the  Sefiora  D(mna  Joaquina.  Unfor- 
ttmstely,  Don  Simon  had  left  for  Merida,  and  we  had 
miftsed  him  on  the  way.  Moreover,  owing  to  the  heat 
of  the  snn  and  our  awkward  saddles,  we  arrived  at  the 
tad  of  this  triumphal  march  in  a  dreadfully  jaded  and 
Inrkirki  condition,  and  periiaps  we  never  dismounted 
more  utterly  worn  out  and  uncomfortable. 

The  hacienda  of  Uxmal  was  built  of  dark  gray  stone, 
riider  in  appearance  and  finirii  than  any  of  the  othersi 
Ifitfi  a  greater  appearance  of  antiquity,  and  at  a  distance 
IdokOid  like  an  old  baronial  castle.  A  year  before  it 
hiki  been  given  to  Don  Simon  by  his  father,  and  h^ 
was  making  large  repairs  and  additions  t6  the  building, 
Aough,  as  his  family  never  visited  it,  and  he  only  for  a 
few  days  at  a  time,  for  what  purpose  I  could  not  con- 
eehre.  It  had  its  cattle-yard  in  front,  with  tanks  of 
water  around,  some  with  green  vegetation  on  the  top, 
and  there  was  an  unwholesome  sensation  of  dampness. 
It  had,  too,  its  church,  which  contained  a  figure  of  nu« 
estrtt'fle&or,  ^*  Our  Lord,''  revered  by  the  Indians  of  all 
the  haciendas  around,  the  fame  of  which  had  reached 
the  household  servants  at  Merid«i,  and  which  Was  the 
first  object  that  attracted  the  attention  of  our  gtdde. 
^e  whole  hacienda  was  immediately  at  our  disposal ; 
kit,  worn  down  with  heat  and  fatigue,  we  took  lit  once 
ib'oor  hammocks. 

•The  hacienda  had  two  major-domos,  one  a  MesCitiOi 
wko  imderstood  the  language  taA  business,  and  in  the 
we  found  an  acquaintanoe,  or,  at  l«u^  what  seem- 

S6 


418  INCIDBNT8    or   TEATBL. 

ed  80,  for  abont  the  time  that  we  left  New-Toric  he 
a  waiter  at  Delmonico's.  It  waB  a  strange 
at  this  out-of-the-way  placei  to  be  brought  into  close 
connexion  with  this  well-known  restaurant,  which  in 
that  country  seemed  the  seat  of  art  and  fountain  of  hap* 
piness.  He  was  a  young  Spaniard  hoai  CSataloniii 
who,  with  a  friend,  having  taken  part  in  some  defeated 
insurrection,  fled  to  Cuba,  whence,  on  the  point  of  being 
discovered,  they  escaped  to  New- York,  pennilese.  Ig» 
norant  of  the  language,  with  no  means  of  getting  a  live- 
lihood, both  were  received  by  Delmonico  as  waiters  at 
his  restaurant,  where  the  friend  rose  to  be  head  dioeo* 
late-maker;  but  he  was  languishing  as  simple  waiter, 
when  Don  Simon  proposed  to  him  to  go  to  UzmaL 
Without  knowing  where  he  was  going,  except  that  it 
was  to  some  part  of  Spanish  America,  or  what  was  to 
be  his  business,  he  found  himself  in  a  retired  place,  sm^ 
rounded  by  Indians  whose  language  he  could  not  nn« 
derstand,  and  having  no  one  near  him  with  whom  he 
could  exchange  a  word  except  the  major-domo.  These 
major-domos  form  a  class  in  Yucatan  who  need  sharp 
looking  after.  Like  the  Scotch  servant  applying  for  a 
place,  they  are  not  particular  about  wages,  and  are  sat- 
isfied with  what  little  they  can  pick  up  about  the  house. 
This  is  the  character  of  most  of  the  major-domos ;  and 
the  position  of  fhe  young  man,  being  white,  intelligent, 
and  honest,  had  advantages  in  that  country,  as  Don  Si- 
mon intended  to  give  him,  as  soon  as  he  understood  the 
business,  a  superintendence  over  the  major-domos  of 
three  or  four  haciendas  ;  but,  unfortunately,  he  wanted 
energy,  felt  the  want  of  society  and  the  loneliness  of 
his  situation,  remembered  scenes  of  enjoyment  with  his 
friend  and  other  waiters,  and  at  Uxmal  talked  of  the 
opera ;  and  when  at  dinner-time  he  drew  a  feeling  pio* 


RUINS     OF    VZMAL.  413 

tore  of  Delmonioo's  saloon,  we  syropathiaecl  with  him 
oordially. 

In  the  afternoon,  rested  and  refreshed,  we  set  out  for 
a  walk  to  the  ruins.  The  path  led  through  a  noble 
pieoe  of  woods,  in  which  there  were  many  tracks,  and 
our  Indian  guide  lost  his  way.  Mr.  C,  being  unwell, 
returned  to  the  hacienda.  We  took  another  road,  and, 
emerging  suddenly  from  the  woods,  to  my  astonish- 
ment came  at  once  upon  a  large  open  field  strewed 
with  mounds  of  ruins,  and  vast  buildings  on  terraces, 
and  pyramidal  structures,  grand  and  in  good  preserva- 
tum,  richly  ornamented,  without  a  bush  to  obstruct  the 
Tiew,  and  in  picturesque  effect  almost  equal  to  the  ruins 
of  Thebes ;  for  these,  standing  on  the  flat  valley  of  the 
Nile,  and  extending  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  nowhere 
burst  in  one  view  upon  the  sight.  Such  was  the  report 
i  made  to  Mr.  Catherwood  on  my  return,  who,  lying  in 
his  hammock  unwell  and  out  of  spirits,  told  me  I  was 
romancing ;  but  early  the  next  morning  we  were  on  the 
ground,  and  his  comment  was  that  the  reality  exceeded 
my  description. 

The  place  of  which  I  am  now  speaking  was  beyond 
all  doubt  once  a  large,  populous,  and  highly  civilized 
oity,  and  the  reader  can  nowhere  find  one  word  of  it 
on-  any  page  of  history.  Who  built  it,  why  it  was  lo- 
cated on  that  spot,  ftway  from  water  or  any  of  those 
natural  advantages  which  have  determined  the  sites  of 
oities  whose  histories  are  known,  what  led  to  its  aban- 
donment and  destruction,  no  man  can  tell.  The  only 
name  by  which  it  is  known  is  that  of  the  hacienda  on 
which  it  stands.  In  the  oldest  deed  belonging  to  the 
Peon  £amily,  which  goes  back  a  hundred  and  forty 
jearsy  the  buildings  are  referred  to,  in  the  boundaries 
of  the  estate,  as  Las  Cases  de  Piedra.    This  is  the  only 


jphoe  is  ppatiomiA  9i 

MTfirt  the  «Id  flBflililiMftiiC^- 

irithiB  thr 

41[|,  j»y  tht  wood*  <|^|ifcll!"d. 

lit  tuiiiinE  ivitiimd* 

fgwA  thmmnnrh  wrfiWtiia'iliBf  i  iMfcll^iiirfg  ^mgk^ 


iMttvs  I  W  •».  flppmrtiu^  <tf  Imiwm  aqninihiiltf 
iHbci^nda  diiieipliDe  and  th^  ohiyxtfflT  of  tfie^Tadiniw  a. 
The  hacienda  of  Uzmal  11  tea  leagaes  or  tbiity  m^ 
tqiiajpe^  but  only  a  0Qiall  portion  ii,oiillintadt*M4  tip 
fwrt  ia  a  mere  roaming-ground  .Avc'oattle.  TlMjMiMi 
•re  of  two  olaeees ;  va^eroa,  or  tendam  jq£  aattlf. 
horseai  who  vaoeiva  twelye  doUara  par  year»  wiA, 
almndaa  ci  maise  par  weak;  andiabradofaii.ov  UbmK§^ 
era,  who  are  alao  called  LunergMii  ftam  thohr  nhligatiML 
in  oonnderatioa  of  their  drinking  tha-  wa|er  of  >  Um  k^ 
aienda,  to  work  £or  tba  maater  wilbout  pay.  on  JL^^p 
orMooday^  Thene  kNUQonatitntfthagraatbodyoClhi 
Xltdiaas ;  aady  beaidee  their  obligation  ta  w«li  naMni 
di^^  whw  th#y  marry  af^iiava  iandliaay  iind,iifiM— | 
mmdmm  wfOar,  ikajt^iur^  iililiMHil  tfl  nlMii,  wHj  tgt 
94bflr  feipaty  micatff».  gf  «wwlIii  Jh*  nMln^|Hl 


4 


DBTAIL8    OF    HJLCIJIBirDA     LIFE.  4f5 

jnioate  being  twenty*{our  square  yards.  When  the  bell 
of  the  church  is  struck  five  times,  every  Indian  is  obli- 
ged to  go  forthwith  to  thjB  hacienda,  and,  for  a  real  a 
day  and  a  ration  of  three  cents'  worth  of  maize,  do 
whatever  work  the  master  or  his  delegate,  the  majors 
domo,  may  direct.  The  authority  of  the  master  or  his 
delegate  over  these  is  absolute*  He  settles  all  disputes 
between  the  Indians  themselves,  and  punishes  for  of> 
fences,  acting  both  as  judge  and  executioner.  If  the 
major-domo  punish  an  Indian  unreasonably,  the  latter 
may  complain  to  his  master ;  and  if  the  master  refuse  to- 
give  him  redress,  or  himself  punishes  an  Indian  unrea» 
aonably^  the  latter  may  apply  for  his  discharge.  There 
is  no  obligation  upon  him  to  remain  on  the  hacienda 
unless  he  is  in  debt  to  the  master,  but,  practically,  this 
binds  him  hand  and  foot.  The  Indians  are  all  improve 
adent,  anticipate  their  earnings,  never  have  two-  days'' 
provisions  in  store,  and  never  keep  any  accounts.  A 
dishonest  master  may  always  bruig  them  in  debt,  and 
generally  they  are  really  soi  If  able  to  pay  off  the  debt, 
the  Indian  is  entitled  to  his  immediate  discharge ;  but  if 
not,  the  master  is  obliged  to  give  him  a  writing  to  the 
effect  following :  "  Whatever  senor  wishes  to  receive 
the  Indian  named  ■  ,  can  take  him,  provided  he 
pays  me  the  debt  he  owes  me."  If  the  master  refuses^ 
him  this  paper,  the  Indian  may  complain  to  the  jnstitia.. 
When  he  has  obtained  it,  he  goes  round  to  the  different 
haciendas  until  he  finds  a  proprietor  who  is  willing  to 
•purchase  the  debt,  with  a  mortgage  upon  him  until  it  is 
paid.  The  account,  is  settled,  and  the  master  gives  the 
Indian  a  writing  of  this  purport :  *''  The  account  of  my^ 
former  servant  — — — *  being  adjusted,  idiich  is  twenty 
dollazs,  and  having  paid  me  the  said  debt,  I,  his  pres- 
ent master,,  give  him  this  receipt ;''  and  with  tfaia  he 


■Jbn* 


\ 


fotfere  into  tbe  service  o{  a  nev  master.  There  i*  bM 
little  chance  of  his  ever  paying  ofT  the  BmaUnt  dcbL 
3s  will  uever  work  merei)r  lo  clear  off  the  tmoaak" 
tliaiioe,  considers  all  be  can  get  oo  his  body  cteu  gikia» 
and  virtually,  trom  the  time  be  receives  his  first  doUmr, 
goCD  through  life  in  bondage,  varied  only  by  an  ocol^ 
fional  change  of  tnaslere.  In  general  they  are  xaOA^ 
■mtable,  and  very  docile  ;  bear  no  malicu  ;  and  wbA 
Oqe  of  them  is  whipped  and  smarting  under  stripes,  wM 
tears  in  hi»  eyes  be  makes  a  bow-  to  the  nutjor-domSh 


i|«W«i  Any  OaBWtfWWfcfMi^fciB 

])pn  Qimm  hcaof^tr'oat  tlM  < 

Ifoited  State*,  and  attempted  ^  intrsdnM  f 

flf  buttsf  «iii|  c^Bva;  lint  Iha  ladim  ■— M tin 

UHKht  tlw  uw  ftf  tfcem,  tlM  obivM  wtttfwwa  mMb^ 

Mil  iiiiiiii  Ti  iif iiiinii  !■  iiiiriiifft  — mn 

Tlw  BWMW  i»  aot  abliged  to  IBHMiB  tht-JaHo.  «Wl« 
l^i  Utoogb,  as  Iw  dmrm  m  ffit  ftgi  tfcJa>w,  kli 
"llii  jimre«t  to  do  «D  I  audi  on  knad  ffnuii^  v»li  k-M 
AM  Hlw«y«  X»  iwwwua  ku  UndoMav  iHa  Ui  1M» 
^|»t<q  ly»at  tt>en>  W  "tek  ajBaanW—  ta  iiniilii  iiwg' 

^  |q  tlw  «M«w«(  iha  wwiBg  I 'tfliitMhHilk^  «f  *• 
^  «f  vtba  Mima.  Th^  vm  JMIi  la  tar  oUi^ 

<l>tthtcl.W»H«»M>vn|iMinii  alM»4a<     I     J   I  ir^ 


A  HBLIOAVV    GAtB.  417 

JgUm  ww^apt  tU  iiwiy^PBrk,  md  bM  <»y  Ui6f  Him 

Iboii-tiM  gBl«  to  the  irdl  and  draifing  wi^lVp  It  was 
pliHinm^tQ  find  that  nwFriagB  was  oonaidflpBd  pR^wy 
and  ezpediwt,  oondncing  to  good  order  and  thr^  oer* 
taiiilyi  aad  pfobably  to  individual  happiness.  Don  K- 
■aon  encouraged  it ;  he  did  Qot  like  to  have  any  single 
IBen  on  the  estate,  and  made  every  young  Indian  of  the 
vig^t  age  take  onto  himself  a  wife.  When,  as  often 
happmed,  the  Indian,  in  a  deprecating  tone,  said,  <^  No 
tango  muger,"  "  I  have  no  woman,"  Don  Simon  looked 
dvongh  the  hacienda  and  found  one  for  him.  On  his 
hat  visit  he  made  four  matches,  and  the  day  before  our 
vrival  the  Delmonioo  major-domo  had  been  to  the  near- 
aat  village  to  escort  the  eouples  and  pay  the  padre  fot 
nuunrying  them,  the  price  being  thirteen  shillings  each. 
He  waa  afraid  to  trust  them  with  the  money,  for  fsar 
tjiey  would  Bp&nd  it  and  not  get  married. 

The  old  major-domo  wqa  energetio  in  carrying  out 
the  views  of  his  master  on  dus  important  subjeot,  and 
that  day  a  delicate  case  was  brought  before  him.  A 
young  Indian  girl  brovc^t  n  complaint  against  a  mar- 
ried woman  for  slander.  She  said  that  she  was  enga- 
ged to  be  married  to  a  young  man  whom  she  loved 
and  who  loved  hop,  and  the  married  woman  had  injuv 
led  her  ftdr  fame  by  reporting  that  she  was  already  in 
**an  interesting ^tuation;''  she  had  told  the  young  man 
of  it,  said  that  all  the  women  in  the  hacienda  saw  it, 
and  taunted  lum  with  marrying  such  a  girl ;  and  now, 
she  said,  the  young  man  would  not  have  her.  The 
married  woman  was  supported  by  a  crowd  of  witnesses, 
and  it  must  be  admitted  that  appearances  were  very 
mach  against  the  plaintiflf;  but  the  old  major-domOf 
without  going  into  the  mmts  at  all,  decided  in  her  fe 

Vox-.  II.— 3  G 


4f6  INOIDBNTI    or    TBATIL. 

vour  on  broad  groundB.  Indignant  at  a  maniage 
preyented,  he  turned  to  the  married  woman  and 
What  was  it  to  her  ?  what  right  had  ahe  to  medAaf 
what  if  it  was  true  ? — ^it  was  none  of  her  buaineas^ 
haps  the  young  man  knew  it  and  was  party  to  it, 
still  intended  to  marry  the  girl,  and  they  might 
lived  happily  bnt  for  her  busy  tongue ;  and,  withol 
more  ado,  he  brought  out  a  leather  whip  cut  into  long 
lashes,  and  with  great  vigour  began  applying  it  to  tiM 
back  of  the  indiscreet  communicator  of  unwelcome  ti* 
dings.  He  wound  up  with  an  angry  homily  upon  bnsj- 
bodies,  and  then  upon  women  generally,  who,  he  said| 
made  all  the  difficulties  on  the  hacienda,  and  but  fat 
them  the  men  would  be  quiet  enough.  The  matrona 
of  the  hacienda  stood  aghast  at  this  unexpected  torn  of 
things ;  and,  when  the  case  was  dismissed,  all  crowded 
around  the  victim  and  went  away  with  her,  giving  sneh 
comfort  as  they  could.  The  young  girl  went  away 
alone ;  the  hearts  of  her  sex  were  steeled  against  her ; 
in  savage  as  in  civilized  life. 


"  Every  wo  a  tear  may  claim, 
Except  an  erring  siiter^  shame.* 


In  the  afternoon  Mr*  Catherwood's  fever  left  him| 
but  in  a  very  low  state.  The  hacienda  was  unhealthy 
at  this  season;  the  great  troughs  and  tanks  of  water 
around  the  house  were  green,  and,  with  the  regular  af* 
ternoon  rains,  induced  fatal  fevers.  Rxr.  Catherwood's 
constitution  was  already  severely  shattered.  Indeed,  I 
became  alarmed,  and  considered  it  indispensable  for 
him  to  leave  the  hacienda,  and,  if  possible,  the  country 
altogether.  To  carry  out  my  other  plans,  we  intended 
at  all  events  to  return.  We  made  a  calculation  that, 
by  setting  out  the  next  morning,  we  could  reach  the 


$9Lmk%iVQ  UP.  410 

Bj^wrii  bcig  in  time  to  embark  for  Havana,  and  in  ten 
nsiles'  oooBiiltation  we  determined  to  break  up  and 
gokome.  Immediately  we  conunmiioated  our  purpose 
h^  tka  mqor-domo,  who  ascended  to  the  belfry  of  the 
ehsdi  and  called  a  eoachj  to  be  ready  at  two  o'clock 
Ifoiiytmonmig. 


420  INCIDBNT8    or   TRATSL. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Aains  of  Uxmal.— A  lofty  Building.— Magnificent  View  from  iU  Doorwij.— P^ 
culler  sculptured  Ornaments.— Another  Building,  caOed  by  the  Indinfl  tka 
House  of  the  Dwarf.— An  Indian  Legend.— The  Hooee  of  the  Nona.— Ite 
Hoase  of  Turtles.— The  House  of  Pigeons.- The  Guard-house.— Absence  gf 
Water.— The  House  of  the  Governor.- Terraces.— TVoodcH  Lintels.— Detatli 
of  the  House  of  the  Goyemor. — Doorways.- Corridora.— A  Beam  of  Wood, » 
scribed  with  Hieroglyphics.— Seniptured  Stones,  dtc. 

In  the  mean  time  I  returned  for  one  more  view  of  the 
ruins.     Mr.  Waldeck's  work  on  these  ruins  had  appear- 
ed before  we  left  this  country.     It  was  brought  out  in 
Paris  in  a  large  folio  edition,  with  illustrations  fancifully 
and  beautifully  coloured,  and  contains  the  result  of  a 
year's  residence  at  Merida  and  eight  days  at  Uxmal. 
At  the  time  of  his  visit  the  ruins  were  overgro>vn  with 
trees,  which  within  the  last  year  had  been  cleared  away, 
and  the  whole  was  laid  bare  and  exposed  to  view.     In 
attempting  a  description  of  these  ruins,  so  vast  a  work 
rises  up  before  me  that  I  am  at  a  loss  where  to  begin. 
Arrested  on  the  very  threshold  of  our  labours,  I  am  un- 
able to  give  any  general  plan  ;    but,  fortunately,  the 
whole  field  was  level,  clear  of  trees,  and  in  full  sight  at 
once.     The  first  view  stamped  it  indelibly  upon  my 
mind,  and  Mr.  Catherwood's  single  day  was  well  em- 
ployed. 

The  first  object  that  arrests  the  eye  on  emerging  from 
the  forest  is  the  building  represented  on  the  right  hand 
of  the  engraving  opposite.  Drawn  off  by  mounds  of 
ruins  and  piles  of  gigantic  buildings,  the  eye  returns 
and  again  fastens  upon  this  lofty  structure.  It  was 
the  first  building  I  entered.  From  its  front  doorway 
I  counted  sixteen  elevations,  with  broken  walls  and 


■-■<■ 


-f  •■.•4 


■  ■''-u.  • 


v: 


Hi 


r 


1 
4  h 


•■.I 


■  • 


»: 


■*■■ 


"^ 


tLVlHSB    or    UXMAL.  481 

monnds  of  stoneSi  and  yasti  magnificent  edificesi  which 
at  that  distance  seemed  untouched  by  time  and  defying 
rain.  I  stood  in  the  doorway  when  the  sun  went  down, 
throwing  from  the  buildings  a  prodigious  breadth  of 
shadow,  darkening  the  terraces  on  which  they  stood, 
and  presenting  a  scene  strange  enough  for  a  work  of 
enchantment. 

This  building  is  sixty-eight  feet  long.     The  elevation 
on  which  it  stands  is  built  up  solid  from  the  plain,  en- 
tirely artificiaL     Its  form  is  not  pyramidal,  but  oblong 
and  rounding,  being  two  hundred  and  forty  feet  long  at 
the  base,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  broad,  and  it  is 
protected  all  around,  to  the  very  top,  by  a  wall  of  square 
stones.    Perhaps  the  high  ruined  structures  at  Palenque, 
which  we  have  called  pyramidal,  and  which  were  so 
rained  that  we  could  not  make  them  out  exactly,  were 
originally  of  the  same  shape.     On  the  east  side  of  the 
straoture  is  a  broad  range  of  stone  steps  between  eight 
and  nine  inches  high,  and  so  steep  that  great  care  is 
necessary  in  ascending  and  descending ;  of  these  we 
counted  a  hundred  and  one  in  their  places.     Nine  were 
wanting  at  the  top,  and  perhaps  twenty  were  covered 
with  rubbish  at  the  bottom.    At  the  summit  of  the  steps 
is  a  stone  platform  four  feet  and  a  half  wide,  running 
along  the  rear  of  the  building.     There  is  no  door  in  the 
centre,  but  at  each  end  a  door  opens  into  an  apartment 
eighteen  feet  long  and  nine  wide,  and  between  the  two 
is  a  third  apartment  of  the  same  width,  and  thirty-four 
feet  long.    The  whole  building  is  of  stone ;  inside,  the 
walls  are  of  polished  smoothness ;  outside,  up  to  the 
keigfat  of  the  door,  the  stones  are  plain  and  square ; 
above  this  line  there  is  a  rich  cornice  or  moulding,  and 
from  this  to  the  top  of  the  building  all  the  sides  are 
covered  with  rich  and  elaborate  sculptured  ornaments, 


V 


?r 


9 


4%S 


INCIOCttTt    tt    TIATSL. 


oh  od^^R 


forfning  a  sort  of  &rabeeqne.  The  styte  and  chanetmr 
of  theae  omamenis  were  enlirely  difTerent  from  thoae  of 
any  we  had  ever  seen  before,  either  in  that  coiuUiy  or 
any  other ;  they  bore  no  resemblance  whaterer  to  thtae 
of  Copan  or  Palenqiie,  and  were  quite  as  nniqtn  tad 
peculiar.  The  designs  were  strange  and  tttcomi»ehBB> 
sible,  very  elaborate,  sometimes  grotei»que,  but  oA|p 
simple,  tasteful,  and  beautiful.  Among  the  inteUigibla 
subjects  are  squares  and  diamonds,  with  busts  of  hi 
beings,  heads  of  leopards,  and  compositions  of 
and  flowers,  and  the  ornaments  known  everywl 
grecquea.  The  ornaments,  which  succeed  each 
are  all  different ;  the  whole  form  an  extraordijavv 
mass  of  richness  and  complexity,  end  the  effect  is  both 
grand  and  curious.  And  the  constriiclion  of  these  oi- 
naments  is  not  less  peouliar  and  striking  than  the 
eral  effect.  There  were  no  tablets  or  ainglo 
each  representing  separately  and  by  itself  u 
subject ;  but  every  ornament  or  combination  i 
up  of  separate  stones,  on  eaoh  of  which  part  of  ibe 
ject  was  carved,  and  which  was  then  set  in  ita  p) 
the  wall.  Each  stone,  by  itself,  was  an  antn 
fractional  part ;  but,  placed  by  the  side  of  others, 
to  make  a  whole,  which  wiihont  it  would  be  an 
Perhaps  it  may,  with  propriety,  be  called  a  ^eeua  ai 
sculptured  mosaic. 

From  the  front  door  of  this  extraordinary 
pavement  of  hard  cement,  twenty-two  feet  loiOg 
teen  broad,  leads  to  the  roof  of  another  boildijig, 
lower  down  on  the  artificial  struotnra,  as  shown 
engraving.     There  is  no  staircase  or  other  visible 
munication  between  the  two  ;  but,  descending 
of  rubbish  along  the  aide  of  the  lower  one,  and 
around  the  corner,  we  entered  •  doorwAjr  m- 


▲  H    ZITDIAH    liiaiMlk.  4SS 

feet  wide,  and  found  inaide  a  chamber  twelve  feet  high, 
with  oorridorB  nuining  the  whole  breadth,  of  which  the 
-front  one  was  seyen  feet  three  inches  deep,  and  the 
other  three  feet  nine  inches.  The  inner  walls  were  of 
smooth  and  poUshed  square  stonat,  and  there  was  no 
inner  door  or  means  of  communic^on  with  any  other 
pdace.  Outside  the  do(»rway  was  loaded  with  orna- 
ments, and  the  whole  exterior  was  the  same  as  that  of 
the  building  described  above.  The  steps  leading  ttoai 
the  doorway  to  the  foot  of  the  structure  were  entirely 
destroyed. 

The  Indians  regard  these  ruins  with  superstitious  rev- 
erence. They  will  not  go  near  them  at  ni^t,  and  they 
have  the  old  story  that  inmiense  treasure  is  hidden 
among  them.  Each  of  the  buildings  has  its  name  given 
to  it  by  the  Indians.  This  is  called  the  Casa  del  Ena- 
no,  or  House  of  the  Dwarf,  and  it  is  consecrated  by  a 
wild  legend,  which,  as  I  sat  in  the  doorway,  I  received 
from  the  lips  of  an  Indian,  as  follows : 
.  There  was  an  old  woman  who  lived  in  a  hut  on  the 
very  spot  now  occupied  by  the  structure  on  which  this 
building  is  perched,  and  opposite  the  Casa  del  Gober^ 
nador  (which  will  be  mentioned  hereafter),  who  went 
mourning  that  she  had  no  children.  In  her  distress  she . 
one  day  took  an  egg,  covered  it  with  a  cloth,  and  laid 
it  away  carefully  in  one  corner  of  the  hut.  Every  day 
■he  went  to  look  at  it,  until  one  morning  she  found  the 
egg  hatched,  and  a  criatura,  or  creature,  or  baby,  bom* 
The  old  woman  was  delighted,  and  called  it  her  son, 
provided  it  with  a  nurse,  took  good  care  of  it,  so  that 
in  one  year  it  walked  and  talked  like  a  man ;  and  then 
it  stopped  growing.  The  old  woman  was  more  delight- 
ed than  ever,  and  said  he  would  be  a  great  lord  or  king. 

One  day  she  told  him  to  go  to  the  house  of  the  gober- 

37 


■ador  and  challenge  him  to  %  trial  of  atrengA.  An 
liwarf  tried  to  beg  ofi^  but  the  old  woman  inaiatBdy  ami 
In  went.  The  guard  admitted  hkn,  and  he  flong  Us 
rtaUenge  at  the  gobemador.  The  latter  smiled,  and 
told  him  to  lift  a  atooe  of  three  aivobaa,  or  aeventy-fi^ 
ponnds,  at  which  the  Untie  fellow  oried  and  retmned  to 
Ws  mother,  who  ient  him  back  to  say  that  if  the  gobar- 
nador  lifted  it  first,  he  wovdd  afterward.  The  gobema- 
dor lifted  it,  and  the  dwarf  immediately  did  the  same. 
The  gobemador  then  tried  him  with  other  feala  of 
strength,  and  the  dwarf  regularly  did  whatever  was 
done  by  the  gobemador.  At  length,  indignant  at  being 
matched  by  a  dwarf,  the  gobemador  told  him  that,  im- 
iess  he  made  a  house  in  one  night  higher  than  any  in 
«he  place,  he  would  kiU  him.  The  poor  dwarf  again 
returned  crying  to  his  mother,  who  bade  him  not  to  be 
disheartened,  and  the  neitt  morning  he  awoke  and  femid 
himself  in  this  lofty  building.  The  gobemador,  seeing 
it  from  the  door  of  his  palace,  was  astonished,  and  sent 
for  the  dwarf,  and  told  him  to  collect  two  bundles  of 
oogoiol,  a  wood  of  a  very  hard  species,  with  one  of 
which  he,  the  gobemador,  would  beat  the  dwarf  over 
the  head,  and  afterward  the  dwarf  should  beat  him  with 
the  other.  The  dwarf  again  returned  crying  to  his 
mother ;  but  the  latter  told  him  not  to  be  afraid,  and 
put  on  the  crown  of  his  head  a  tortillita  de  trigo,  a  small 
thin  cake  of  wheat  floiu*.  The  trial  was  made  in  the 
presence  of  all  the  great  men  in  the  city.  The  gober- 
nador  broke  the  whole  of  his  bundle  over  the  dwarfs 
head  without  hurting  the  little  fellow  in  the  least.  He 
then  tried  to  avoid  the  trial  on  his  own  head,  but  he 
had  given  his  word  in  the  presence  of  his  officers,  and 
was  obliged  to  submit.  The  second  blow  of  the  dwarf 
broke  his  scull  in  pieces,  and  all  the  spectators  hailed 


a.au-»9.  op>.T«ai  hvksw  4f86 


4i»  TOtOE  at  their  neifr  gobeniador.  The  oU  womm 
4mb  died ;  but  at  the  Indian  tillage  of  Maaiy  seventeeB 
4!ffg"^  distant^  theie  is  a  deep  w«U,  from  wliieli  epene 
a  eave  that  leade  under  gioond  an  inmenaedietaaoe  te 
Merida.  In  thia  cave,  on  the>  bank  of  a  alreMn,  under 
the  shade  of  a  large  tree,  sits  an  old  woman  with  a  sop* 
g«nt  by -her  side,  who  sella  water  in  shmlII  qnaDtities,  not 
jCpr  money,  bnt  only  for  a  criatura  or  baby  to  give  the 
serpent  to  eat;  and  this  old  woman  is  the  mother  of  the 
dwait  Such  is  the  fancifdl  legend  connected  with  this 
^difioe;  but  it  hardly  seemed  more  strange  than  the 
ctrncture  to  which  it  referred. 

The  other  building  indicated  hi  the  plate  is  called  by 
a  name  which  may  originally  have  iHtd  some  reference 
to  the  Testals  who  in  Mexico  were  employed  to  keep 
burning  the  mcred  fire ;  but  I  believe  in  the  months  of 
the  Indians  of  Uxmal  it  has  no  reference  whateyer  to 
history,  tradition,  or  legend,  bnt  is  derived  entirely  from 
Spanish  associations.  It  is  called  Casa  de  las  Monjas, 
or  House  of  the  Nuns,  or  the  Convent.  It  is  situated 
on  an  artificial  elevation  about  fifteen  feet  high.  Its 
form  is  quadrangular,  and  one  side,  according  to  my 
measurement,  is  ninety-five  paces  in  length.  It  was 
not  possible  to  pace  all  around  it,  from  the  masses  of 
{Edlen  stones  which  encumber  it  in  scnne  places,  but  it 
may  be  safely  stated  at  two  hundred  and  fifty  feat 
square.  Like  the  house  ot  the  dwarf,  it  is  built  entirely 
of  cut  stone,  and  the  whole  exterior  is  filled  with  the 
«ai(ie  rich,  elaborate,  and  incomprehensible  sculptured 
^rpaments. 
,.  Th^  principal  entrance  is  by  a  large  doorway  into  a 
^icsautifnl  patio  or  courtyard,  grass-grown,  but  dear  of 
|ree8»  and  the  whole  of  the  inner  facade  is  ornamented 
mpca  richly  and  elitfHKrately  than  the  outside,  and  in  a 
'   Vol.  n.— 3H 


426  mCiiiBNTI    OF    TftATEL. 

more  perfect  Btate  of  preservation.  On  one  ride  the 
combination  was  in  the  form  of  diamonds,  simple,  chaste, 
and  tasteful ;  and  at  the  head  of  the  courtyard  two  gi- 
gantic serpents,  with  their  heads  broken  and  iallen, 
were  winding  from  opposite  directions  along  the  whole 
fr^de. 

In  front,  and  on  a  line  with  the  door  of  the  conyent, 
IS  another  building,  on  a  lower  foundation,  of  the  same 
general  character,  called  Casa  de  Tortugas,  from  sculp- 
tured turtles  over  the  doorway.  This  building  had  in 
several  places  huge  cracks,  as  if  it  had  been  shaken  t>y 
an  earthquake.  It  stands  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the 
ruins,  and  the  top  commands  a  view  all  round  of  singu- 
lar but  wrecked  magnificence. 

Beyond  this,  a  little  to  the  right,  approached  by  pass- 
mg  over  mounds  of  ruins,  was  another  building,  which 
at  a  great  distance  attracted  our  attention  by  its  conspic^ 
uous  ornaments.  We  reached  it  by  ascending  two  high 
terraces.  The  main  building  was  similar  to  the  others, 
and  along  the  top  ran  a  high  ornamented  ^vall  in  this 


J  L 

! I 

form,  from  which  it  was  called  Casa  de  Palomos.  or 
House  of  Pigeons,  and  at  a  distance  it  looked  more  like 
a  row  of  pigeon-houses  than  anything  else. 

In  front  was  a  broad  avenue,  with  a  line  of  ruins  on 
each  side,  leading  beyond  the  wall  of  the  convent  to  a 
great  mound  of  ruins,  w^hich  probably  had  once  been  a 
building  with  which  it  was  connected  ;  and  beyond  this 
is  a  lofty  building  in  the  rear,  to  which  this  seemed  but 
a  vestibule  or  porter's  lodge.  Between  the  two  was  a 
large  patio  or  courtyard,  with  corridors  on  each  side, 


4 


AVSBHCr    OF    WATIIU 


«* 


and  &e  grDund  of  the  courtyard  tounded  kdlow.  In 
one  place  the  suiface  was  brok«ii,and  I  descended  into 
a  large  excayation,  cemented,  which  had  probably  ben 
inteadad  as  a  granaiy.  At  the  back  of  the  courtyardli 
on  a  high,  broken  terrace,  which  it  was  difficult  to  dimb^ 
was  another  edifice  more  rained  than  the  othersi  but 
which,  from  the  style  of  its  remains  and  its  oonunjittd^ 
ing  position,  oTerlooking  every  other  building  except 
the  house  of  the  dwaif,  and  apparently  having  beea 
connected  with  the  distant  mass  ol  ruins  in  front,  must 
have  been  one  of  the  most  important  in  the  city,  peihapt 
the  principal  temple.  The  Indians  called  it  the  ipiaitat 
or  guard-house.  It  commanded  a  view  of  other  nnns: 
not  contained  in  the  enumeration  of  those  seen  from  the 
house  of  the  dwarf;  and  the  whole  presented  a  scene 
of  barbaric  magnificence,  utterly  oonfoonding  all  prevK 
ous  notions  in  regard  to  the  aboriginal  inhabitants  of  this 
country,  and  calling  up  emotions  which  had  not  been 
wakened  to  the  same  extent  by  anything  we  had  jsl 


There  was  one  strange  circumstance  comiaoted  witk 
these  ruins.  No  water  had  ever  been  discovered ;  and 
there  was  not  a  single  stream,  fountain,  or  weU,  knowB 
to  the  Indians,  nearer  than  the  hacienda,  a  mile  and  a 
half  distant.  The  sources  which  supplied  this  ekoieM 
of  life  had  disappeared ;  the  cisterns-  were  broken,  er 
the  siMtiUBS  dried  up.  This,  as  we  afterward  learae^l 
from  Don  Simon,  was  an  object  of  great  interest  to  him,, 
^nd  made  him  particularly  anxious  for  a  thosongh  es»- 
ploration  of  the  ruins.  Hesupposed  that  the  ieice  of  the 
ooutttry  had  not  changed,  and  that  somewhete  under 
groand  must  exist  great  wells,  cisterns^  or  reservoiiSy 
which  supplied  the  former  inhabitants  of  the  etty  with 
water.    Tbe^seoreryofthesawdlsorBeservobswouldy 


i^ 


498  iRCIDENTf      or    TEATBL. 

iA  that  region,  be  like  finding  a  fountain  in  the  desert^ 
nr,  more  poetically,  like  finding  money.  The  supply 
of  water  would  be  boundless.  Luneros  without  namber 
jnight  draw  from  it,  and  the  old  city  be  repeopled  witb* 
out  any  new  expense  for  wells  or  tanks. 

While  I  was  making  the  circuit  of  these  rums,  Mr. 
Cafherwood  proceeded  to  the  Case  del  Gobernador, 
which  title,  according  to  the  naming  of  the  Indians,  indi- 
Gates  the  principal  building  of  the  old  city,  the  residence 
of  the  governor,  or  royal  house.  It  is  the  grandest  in 
position,  the  most  stately  in  architecture  and  proportions, 
and  the  most  perfect  in  preservation  of  all  the  stmo- 
tures  remaining  at  Uxmal. 

The  plate  opposite  represents  the  ground-plan,  with 
the  three  ranges  of  terraces  on  which  it  stands.  The 
first  terrace  is  six  hundred  feet  long  and  five  feet  high, 
[t  is  walled  with  cut  stone,  and  on  the  top  is  a  platform 
twenty  feet  broad,  from  which  rises  another  terrace  fif* 
teen  feet  high.  At  the  corners  this  terrace  is  supported 
by  cut  stones,  having  the  faces  rounded  so  as  to  give  a 
better  finish  than  with  sharp  angles.  The  great  plat- 
form above  is  flat  and  clear  of  trees,  but  abounding  in 
green  stumps  of  the  forest  but  lately  cleared  away,  and 
now  planted,  or,  rather,  from  its  irregularity,  sown  with 
ooru,  which  as  yet  rose  barely  a  foot  from  the  ground. 
At  the  southeast  corner  of  this  platform  is  a  row  of  round 
pillars  eighteen  inches  in  diameter  and  three  or  four 
feet  high,  extending  about  one  hundred  feet  along  the 
platform ;  and  these  were  the  nearest  approach  to  pil- 
lars or  columns  that  we  saw  in  all  our  exploration  of 
the  ruins  of  that  country.  In  the  middle  of  the  terrace, 
along  an  avenue  leading  to  a  range  of  steps,  was  a  bro- 
ken, round  pillar,  inclined  and  falling,  with  trees  grow- 
ing around  it.     It  was  part  of  our  purpose  to  make  an 


H0II8B   or   THS    ooTSftiroft.  429 

excavation  in  this  platform,  from  the  impression  that 
underneath  would  be  found  a  vault,  forming  part  of  the 
immense  reservoirs  for  supplying  the  city  with  water. 

In  the  centre  of  the  platform,  at  a  distance  of  two 
hundred  and  five  feet  from  the  border  in  front,  is  a  range 
of  stone  steps  more  than  a  hundred  feet  broad,  and  thir« 
ty-five  in  number,  ascending  to  a  third  terrace,  fifteen 
feet  above  the  last,  and  thirty-five  feet  from  the  ground, 
about  equal  to  the  height  of  the  City  Hall,  which,  being 
elevated  on  a  naked  plain,  formed  a  most  commanding 
position.  The  erection  of  these  terraces  alone  was  an 
immense  work.  On  this  third  terrace,  with  its  principal 
doorway  facing  the  range  c^  steps,  stands  the  noble 
structure  of  the  Casa  del  Gobernador.  The  fa9ade 
measures  three  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  Away  from 
the  region  of  dreadful  rains,  and  the  rank  growth  of 
forest  which  smothers  the  ruins  of  Palenque,  it  stands 
with  all  its  walls  erect,  and  almost  as  perfect  as  when 
deserted  by  its  inhabitants.  The  whole  building  is  of 
stone,  plain  up  to  the  moulding  that  runs  along  the  tops 
of  the  doorway,  and  above  filled  with  the  same  rich, 
strange,  and  elaborate  sculpture,  among  which  is  par* 
ticularly  conspicuous  the  ornament  before  referred  to  as 
la  grecque.  There  is  no  rudeness  or  barbarity  in  the  de- 
sign or  proportions ;  on  the  contrary,  the  whole  wears 
an  air  of  architectural  symmetry  and  grandeur ;  and  as 
the  stranger  ascends  the  steps  and  casts  a  bewildered  eye 
along  its  open  and  desolate  doors,  it  is  hard  to  believe 
that  he  sees  before  him  the  work  of  a  race  in  whose 
efMtaph,  as  written  by  historians,  they  are  called  igno- 
rant of  art,  and  said  to  have  perished  in  the  rudeness 
q£  savage  life.  If  it  stood  at  this  day  on  its  grand  artifip 
eial  terrace  in  Hyde  Park  or  the  Garden  of  the  Tuil- 
eries,  it  would  form  a  new  order,  I  do  not  say  equal- 


ling,  bni  wi  9Bworfh7.t»iMiid  <j||ij,iifiii>>iHit|>wi 

Bat  ifafite  niM  «M  tUag  wUdi  iMq^AAliMpi^ 
wwtt  of  oonrfafinly  witk  all  the  w*»  il-wwlfe4b|t 
•kljact  that  iiad  aifaatad  sTf  attantMMi  in  Ika  tfgl^fi 
the  dwail^  and  whieh  X  fand  ttHodced  hi  wmtf  «lta| 
hnilditig.  I  ha¥8  mentioQed  that  at  Omwingft  ipe  anirv 
#ooden  beatti  and  at  Pafeaqm  the  frafpneM  of  n  woei^ 
m  pole;  at  ihia  plaoe  off  1k$  lOMi  AmI  temisfmm^ 

flmom  wer  Ike  door$.  Vieae  Uirteli  #«o  haav/MMMH 
^  eif^tor  nke  faet  long,  eigjitgfen  orjifcj»tyhBt1iin^i>Mfc| 
and  tweWe  or  lourteeli  HAdk.  ThoVoodi  UhaJhit^ 
OeaaJigo,  was  Tivy  hard,  ai4l>»a^  ilndir  fte  UilK^tf 
thoinaaehaie.    Aa  oar  guide  toM  1%  iTirtt  of  %  wfmtm 

Mt^oaad  in  te  MUipoiiihood,taitP>^  1^  # 

tun  Ibieatn  pearvthtfXiahe  <}£  l^etaik  'VIFhj^aoddrMl 
aaed  in  the  eonetmction  of  Imihfinge  odrtimiic  of  0OM 
atone  aecined  unacooontable ;  but  if  onr  guide  wai  ea»» 
root  in  regard  to  the  place  of  its  growth,  eaeh  beaaa 
mart  have  been  carried  on  the  ahouldera  of  eight  Ih* 
dians,  with  the  necessarj  relief  cairiers,  a  rtimtannn  ef 
Aree  hundred  miles ;  conaequ^itljr,  it  waa  nure^  eoat^, 
and  ouriouai  and  for  that  reason  may  have  been 
ered  (NmamentaL  The  position  of  these  lioftels 
trying,  as  they  were  obliged  to  support  n  solid  maas  ef 
stone  waU  foorteen  or  sixteen  feet  high,  and  three  erfhar 
in  thickness.  Onoe,  perhaps,  they  were  strong  aa 
but  they  showed  that  they  were  not  as  darabie,  and 
^>  tained  within  them  the  aeeds  of  deatmetion.  Moal|iljl 
true,  were  in  their  places,  sound,  and  harder  than  Hgaail 
¥itsB ;  but  othera  were  perforated  by  Wdflibolea;  aona 
ware  cracked  in  the  middle,  and  the  walls,  settttag  i^sn 
them,  were  finK  owrooming  their  remaining  atrnnglhi 


/* 


IHTXBIOB    or    THE    OOTBRVOa's  H0V8S.  481 

tmd  others  had  fallen  down  altogether.  In  fsust,  except 
in  the  house  of  the  nuns  the  greatest  destmotion  was  from 
tfte  decay  and  breaking  of  these  wooden  beams.  If  the 
Sntels  had  been  of  stone,  the  pruicipal  buildings  of  this 
desolate  city  would  at  this  day  be  almost  entire ;  or,  if 
die  edifices  had  been  still  occupied  under  a  master's  eye, 
«'  decaying  beam  would  have  been  replaced,  and  the 
buildings  saved  from  ruin.  In  the  moment  of  greatness 
sod  power,  the  builders  never  contemplated  that  the 
time  would  come  when  their  city  would  be  a  desolation, 
r  The  Casa  del  Gobemador  stands  with  its  front  to  the 
eaflt.  In  the  centre,  and  opposite  the  range  of  steps 
leading  up  the  terrace,  are  three  principal  doorways. 
The  middle  one  is  eight  feet  six  inches  wide,  and  eight 
feet  ten  inches  high ;  the  others  are  of  the  same  height, 
but  two  feet  less  in  width.  The  centre  door  opens  into 
an  apartment  sixty  feet  long  and  twenty-seven  feet  deep, 
which  is  divided  into  two  corridors  by  a  wall  three  and 
a  half  feet  thick,  with  a  door  of  communication  between 
of  the  same  size  with  the  door  of  entrance.  The  plan 
IB  the  same  as  that  of  the  corridor  in  front  of  the  palace 
at  Palenque,  except  that  here  the  corridor  does  not  run 
the  whole  length  of  the  building,  and  the  back  corridor 
has  no  door  of  egress.  The  floors  are  of  smooth  square 
stone,  the  walls  of  square  blocks  nicely  laid  and  smooth- 
ly  polished.  The  ceiling  forms  a  triangular  arch  with- 
out the  keystone,  as  at  Palenque  /^ ;  but,  instead  of 
die  rough  stones  overlapping  or  being  covered  with 
■tnoco,  the  layers  of  stone  are  bevilled  as  they  rise,  and 
present  an  even  and  polished  surface.  Throughout,  the 
lajring  and  polishing  of  the  stones  are  as  perfect  as  un- 
der the  rules  of  the  best  modern  masonry. 

In  this  apartment  we  determined  to  take  up  our  abodei 
once  more  in  the  palace  of  an  unknown  king,  and  under 


« 


>  .     t 


*  ^ 


lb*  piBpil»ii»,  Mill  ri  Wia  ii>  wfc  «f  3 

Ma^'FaiMvaK  -Ik: 
the  kiiF  bflWk«f  lh»' 

Jwm-  ,a»,^<hptte  ^ijpi  MCni  i^nt  «Ih 


Inb  of  wUdi  appear  »  the  ffkn^and  fhe 
fimity  ytm  ptcgqrwt  in  the  omameiits.  Tkioii|^aM 
the  roof  was  tight,  the  apartments  were  drj,  aad,  1e 
apeak  uBderstaBdingly^  a/nff  Ifcovtamf  doUars^  §xpmi§i 
in  repain  woidd  harre  restored  it^imd  made  it  fit  fv  the 
reooc»patxiHi  of  its  royal  owners.  In  the  apartiMfll 
marked  A  the  walls  were  coated  with  a  rerj  fine  plas^ 
^  ter  of  Paris,  equal  to  the  best  seen  on  walls  in  dds 

eonntry.  The  rest  were  all  of  smooth  polished  slooa 
There  were  no  paintings,  stuoco  ornamentSi  aeulplussl 
tablets,  or  other  decorations  whatever.  '* 

In  the  apartment  marked  B  we  ibmid  what  we  s^ 
garded  as  a  most  interesting  object  It  waen-Aaaai  ^ 
woodf  about  ten  feet  long  and  very  heeTji  iH^ioh  he! 
fallen  from  its  place  orer  the  doorwa]PV  aad  Cor  some 
porpose  or  other  been  hauled  inside  the>efaaniher  iolea 
dark  domse^     On  the  isoe  was  m  Uae^el 


^'As^.tt  .,,•■1: 


^^ 


HIAmO«LTPBIC8    OV    WOOD.  itt 

tViod  or  stainpedy  tlioDst  oblitenited,  bat  whioh  wb 
mmim  o«t  to  be  hieroglyphics,  andi  bo  fer  as  we  eo^ 
VBdenrtand  them,  similar  to  those  at  Copan  and  P«ii- 
larpw  Several  Ihdiaiis  were  around  us,  with  an  idle 
emnasity  watching  all  oar  movements ;  and,  not  widn 
ing  to  call  their  attention  to  it,  we  left  it  with  an  Indian 
at  the  moment  sitting  npon  it.  Before  we  were  cat  of 
the  doorway  we  heard  the  ring  of  his  machete  from  a 
bkyw  which,  on  rising,  he  had  struck  at  random,  and 
whioh  ehifiped  off  a  long  shaving  within  a  few  inches 
sf  the  diaractecs.  It  almost  gave  ns  a  shivering  fit, 
and  we  did  not  dare  tell  him  to  qpare  it,  lest  frcxn  igno- 
rance, jealoosy,  or  suspicion,  it  should  be  the  means  of 
anauring  its  destruction.  I  immediately  determined  to 
aeeure  this  mystical  beam.  Compelled  to  leave  in  haste, 
en  my  arrival  at  Merida  Don  Simon  kindly  promised 
to  send  it  to  me,  together  with  a  sculptured  stone  which 
flnrmed  one  of  the  principal  ornaments  in  all  the  build- 
ings. The  latter  is  now  in  my  possession,  but  the  for- 
mer has  never  arrived.  In  the  multitode  -of  regrets 
ecMUwoted  with  our  abrupt  departure  from  these  ruins, 
I  cannot  help  deploring  the  misfortune  of  not  being  as- 
sured of  the  safety  of  this  beam.  By  ^at  iSeeble  light 
tbe  pages  of  American  history  are  written !  There  are 
at  Uxmal  no  ^  idols,"  as  at  Copan ;  not  a  single  stuc- 
coed figure  or  carved  tablet,  as  at  Palenque.  Except 
this  beam  of  hieroglyphics,  though  searching  earnestly, 
we  did  not  discover  any  one  absolute  point  of  resem- 
Uanee ;  and  the  wanton  machete  of  an  Indian  may  de- 
stroy the  only  link  that  can  connect  them  together. 

The  ornament  above  referred  to  is  introdooed  in  one 
of  ihe  compartments  of  the  ^^  phm."  It  is  thefboa  of  a 
dMIh's  head,  with  wings  expanded,  aaii  Mwa  of  teolh 
pscieclmg,  in  cfleol  soiBswhat  like  the  fignwof  a  daadito 

Vai.IL-41 


•1 


.^ 


#  iMMMl-MfMttMtoiMiitfrte.  ^itJititofbtliwMi 
lb»iWMy,  md  fa#W  •tetie  ■iiflijIwhliiV  aboirtriwt  h< 

MBovadby  S^n  flhnon  «iitin^*«iA  ti»  ntartiMil 
■■Ming  it  VIP  at  an  onMrnaent  0a  fin  ^wHilibPv  Mk 

'ilt^iiFWtiiir'pinrpcMe  to  prMeut  §A  immimg^<i4m 
WKtum  of'tUi  bnildiag^  and,  ih  ftuBt|  of  «tt'  thv 
TIm  plate  <ipporiteie|iiiM(ifBo*e4tnwcii 
tnml  onwtoentBi  «r.  what  1 4am  eall«l  riioapaa^  Aa4t' 
Oopaiif  Mv.  Catharwood  waa  ablige^to-lkir  aaaarik 
attaBi|ito  bafete  he  aarfd  caiafpdiii||^^ 
t»  aqyAa  charaaUM'  1^  dnnliig  wae  hi^piB'kli 
» the  a£ta■aool^  waa  aainiflhed  titett  4M  deft  tti? 
to  O^  haaiaiidai  aadjr  wrfMrtiniatal ji  Ifr;  Ct 
aUatoaaaaflM.iL  las  ptamilad  ia  the 
the  laal  tooelMMi  of  tfw  panttil  <«  dnapot^ 
of  the  minme  eharaoten  with  whkih  the  eiAfaet  tnd 
charged,  and  without  any  attempt  to  fill  them  in.  The 
reader  will  aee  how  utterly  •insnffieient  any  Teilial  da« 
acription  mint  be,  and  he  will  be  able  to  form  from  it 
aiMne  idea  of  the  imposing  exterior  of  the  building. 
The  exteriOT  of  every  building  in  Uxmal  waa  om^ 
mented  in  the  aame  elaborate  manner.  The  part  rq^ 
resented -in  the  engraving  embraces  about  twenty  feel 
of  the  Case  del  Oobemador.  The  whole  exterior  e^ 
this  building  presents  a  aurftMse  of  seven  hundred  feet) 
tiie  Case  da  las  Monjaa  is  two  thousand  feet,  and  the 
extent  of  sculptured  sur&oe  exhibited  by  the  other  boiUU 
ings  I  am  not  abb  to  give.  Complete  drawings  of  te 
whole  would  form  one  of  the  moat  magnificeat  aeriss 
aver  ofered  to  the  public,  and  snob  h  is^yet  oar  hope 
one  day  to  be  able  to  present  The  reader  will  b^  aMa 
10  fotm  aonae  idea  of  the  time,  skiU,  nmUmbmmwmtfakf^ 


I 

\ 


t 


J 


■  '■»»i' 

^^^^^H 

%^>                .  ..^^^H 

in 

m 

^(M&ife-^^^i^ku,^^      L 


b&*^. 


— ^ — ' ■ r,xA^«v.'j-r} — 

P-'A'RT     0-      -RONT    CAS*      DE^     iOBEHNADCS 


L 


d 


1 


KItODBCBS     OF     THC     BITILOEZI. 


486 


oiaking  them ;  and,  more  than  this,  to  conceive  the 
lensc  time,  skill,  and  labour  required  for  carving 
I  a  surface  of  ttoue,  and  the  wealth,  power,  and  cul- 
ioD  of  the  people  vrho  oould  command  such  skill 
labour  for  the  mere  decoration  of  their  edifices. 
Mblj  all  these  ornaments  have  a  symbolical  meao- 
eech  stone  is  part  of  an  aUegoiy  or  C^ble,  hidden 
1  US,  inscrutable  under  the  light  of  the  feeble  torch 
nay  burn  before  it,  but  which,  if  ever  revealed,  will 
r  that  the  history  of  the  world  yet  remaini  to  b« 


:'^r^:-.^ 


■^  CHAPTER  XXVI.  • 

EiplontiaD  finitheil. — Who  buili  liaeae  luined  CitiMl>~O[nnJ0ii  el  Dofni—     I 
TtB»  Itmri*  be»i  no  Hcmmblanc*  la  [be  Aictiteem™  irf  C>M»  aiul  Row-      T 


^%  The*e 

NMhlnglikr  idem  in  Europe.— Do  not  Reaantile  Ihp  known  Woriu 
and  China.— Iilciib«rlbote  of  HiiLrla.—\(T£icaTitiMn  foood.— Ttie  Prnol* 
■^£lU'[>^U>  tH«no[i£Uul  SULu.diiDOl  leMmblc  wtntwecaUedOwr^nBih 
orAaieiic«,—ThB  Temples  of  Egypt  not  like  [hoH  of  Amcnct.—Scalpuni 
dw  tan  n  thai  of  Egn>t>— Probable  AniiqBii]>  al  tbcaa  Rniiu.— Acsoviu 
'         the  Sptonth  iJiUonuei.-'nitMCiUMpMtwb^buUlbf  Um  K>c«*inbiUa« 
ihe  Country  it  the  time  of  the  Spaniab  ConqoMl.— Thees  R»c«  i.ot  jM  cuul 


II 


''^  I  SAVE  now  finished  the  exploratiDn  of  rttiaa.     l%e 

^  '  Jt^tAa  ja  periiapt  pleased  that  ow  ktinw  wen  lina^ 

'>^-'       to  an  Kbnipt  close  (taj  publiahen  eartauUf  mmt ;  bM  I 

■emtre  htm  tbIR  I  couU  have  food  it  m  o^  kawt  te  i»* 

^  'jwolix  beyond  ^bocnd»,  and  that-in  awwy  I  iMWefcMp 

t'  r;  'rery  brief;  in  iaet,  I  have  iBTetip  the  bert  tfhtaee  *rt 

*r    ^  author  ever  had  to  make  his  reader  remember  hini.    I 

will  make  no  mention  of  other  mins  of  whi^  m  baaid 

at  more  remote  placet.     I  have  no  donht  a  year  iMy 

be  passed  with  great  interest  ia  Yucatan.     The  field  of 

American  antiquities  is  barely  opened ;  bol  for  the  pre*- 

''^  ent  I  have  done. 

^  And  here  I  would  be  wilKng  to  pai^  and  leave  the 

reader  to  wander  (done  and  at  will  through  Ae  kbj* 
rinth  of  mystery  which  hangs  over  tfaeee  rained  eitin ; 
bat  it  would  be  craven  to  do  so,  without  taming  far  t 
moment  to  the  inq>ortant  qiiaation,  Who  were  Uw  pifr 
pie  that  built  these  eitiei  f 

Since  their  disoorery,  a  dark  aloud  hM  been  thram 

ewt  them  in  two  particular*.     The  fint  it  w  tegard  t» 

Ae  immense  difficulty  end  danger,  laboor  and  expHK^ 

(rf  visiting  and  exploring  them.     It  has  been  my  ofajeel 

*  to  cku  away  diit  clood.    It  will  qipear  froin  Am* 


SU»P08B1>    AITTIQVITT     OF    THl    KVINB.  4S7 

pages  that  the  acooonts  have  been  exaggerated ;  axid|  aa 
regards  Palenque  and  Uxmal  at  leasts  the  only  places 
which  have  been  brought  before  the  public  at  all,  there 
IS  neither  difficulty  in  reaching  nor  danger  in  exploring 
them. 

The  second  is  in  regard  to  the  age  of  the  buildings ; 
but  here  the  cloud  is  darker,  and  not  so  easily  dispelled, 

I  will  not  recapitulate  the  many  speculations  that  havw 
already  been  presented*  The  most  irrational,  perhapSi 
is  that  of  Captain  Dupaix,  who  gives  to  the  ruins  of  Pa^ 
lenque  an  antediluvian  origin;  and,  unfortunately  for 
him,  he  gives  his  reason,  which  is  the  accumulation  of 
earth  over  the  figures  in  the  courtyard  of  the  palace. 
His  visit  was  thirty  years  before  ours ;  and,  though  he 
deared  away  the  earth,  the  accumulation  was  again 
probably  quite  as  great  when  we  were  there.  At  aU 
OTenta,  by  his  own  showing,  the  figures  were  not  entire- 
ly buried.  I  have  a  distinct  recollection  of  the  condi- 
tion of  those  monuments,  and  have  no  scruple  in  saying 
that,  if  entirely  buried,  one  Irishman,  with  the  national 
weapon  that  has  done  such  service  on  our  canals,  would 
in  three  hours  remove  the  whole  of  this  antediluvian 
deposite.  I  shall  not  follow  the  learned  commentaries 
upon  this  suggestion  of  Captain  Dupaix,  except  to  re- 
mark that  much  learning  and  research  have  been  ex« 
pended  upon  insufficient  or  incorrect  data,  or  when  a 
bias  has  been  given  by  a  statement  of  facts ;  and,  put- 
ting ourselves  in  the  same  category  with  those  who  have 
furnished  these  data,  for  the  benefit  of  explorers  and 
writers  who  may  succeed  us  I  shall  narrow  down  this 
question  to  a  ground  even  yet  sufficiently  broad,  viz.,  a 
eompariaon  of  these  remains  with  those  of  the  architec- 
ture and  sculpture  of  other  ages  and  people. 

I  set  out  with  the  propoution  that  they  are  not  Cyolo- 


488  XHCIDBNTB    OrTEATBL. 

pean,  and  do  not  resemble  the  works  of  Ghreek  or  Ro- 
man ;  there  is  nothing  in  Europe  like  them.  We  must 
look,  then,  to  Asia  and  Africa. 

It  has  been  supposed  that  at  different  periods  of  time 
vessels  from  Japan  and  China  have  been  thrown  upon 
the  western  coast  of  America.  The  civilization,  culti- 
vation, and  science  of  those  countries  are  known  to 
date  back  from  a  very  early  antiquity.  Of  Japan  I  be- 
lieve some  accounts  and  drawings  have  been  published, 
but  they  are  not  within  my  reach ;  of  China,  during  the 
whole  of  her  long  history,  the  interior  has  been  so  coai^ 
pletely  shut  against  strangers  that  we  know  nothing  of 
her  ancient  architecture.  Perhaps,  however,  that  time 
is  close  at  hand.  At  present  we  know  only  that  they 
have  been  a  people  not  given  to  change ;  and  if  their 
ancient  architecture  is  the  saiiie  with  their  modern,  it 
bears  no  rcscinblance  whatever  to  thp^e  unknown  ruins. 

The  monuments  of  India  have  been  made  familiar  to 
us.  The  remains  of  Hindu  architecture  exhibit  im- 
mense excavations  in  the  rock,  either  eiitirelv  artificial 
or  made  by  enhirgiDg  natural  caverns,  supported  in  front 
by  large  columns  cut  out  of  the  rock,  with  a  dark  and 
gloomy  interior. 

Among  all  these  American  ruins  there  is  not  a  sin- 
gle excavation.  The  surface  of  country,  abounding  in 
mountain  sides,  seems  to  invite  it ;  but,  instead  of  being 
under  grouud,  the  striking  feature  of  these  ruins  is,  that 
the  buildings  stand  on  lofty  artificial  elevations  ;  and  it 
can  hardly  be  supposed  that  a  people  emigrating  to  a 
new  country,  with  that  strong  natural  impulse  to  per- 
petuate and  retain  under  their  eyes  memorials  of  home, 
would  have  gone  so  directly  counter  to  national  and  re* 
ligious  associations. 

In  sculpture,  too,  the  Hindus  differ  entirely.     Their 


^^ifP^V^^WW^P" 


ALOUK     GHARACTSB    «r    THE     RCtM 


439 


subjects  are  far  more  hideous,  bviag  in  general  repre- 
Bentations  of  human  beings  disturted,  deformed,  and 
imnatuTul,  very  often  many-bended,  ot  with  three  or 
four  arms  or  legs  thrown  oiil  from  the  same  body. 

lia^y  we  come  to  the  Egyptians.  The  point  of  re* 
semblance  upon  which  the  great  stress  has  been  laid  ia 
the  pyramid.  The  pyramidal  form  is  one  which  sug- 
gests itself  to  human  intelligence  in  every  country  aa  the 
simplest  and  surest  mode  of  erectiug  a  high  structure 
upon  a  solid  fouiidatJou.  It  cannot  be  regarded,  as  a 
ground  for  assignmg  a  common  origin  to  all  people 
among  whom  structures  of  that  character  are  found,  un* 
less  the  similarity  is  preserved  in  its  most  striking  t 
lures.  The  pyramids  of  Egypt  are  peculiar  and 
form,  and  were  invariably  erected  for  the  same  i 
aod  purposes,  so  far  as  those  uses  and  purposes  i 
known.  They  cue  all  square  at  tlie  base,  with  8te|V  J 
rising  and  diminishing  until  they  come  to  a  point.  Tto 
oeareet  approach  to  this  is  at  Copan  ;  but  even  at  thrift^ 
place  there  is  no  entire  pyramid  standing  alone  anff  ' 
disconnected,  nor  one  with  four  sides  complete,  but  only 
two,  or,  at  most,  three  aides,  and  intended  to  form 
part  of  other  structures.  All  the  rest,  without  a  single 
exception,  were  high  elevations,  with  sides  so  broken 
that  we  could  not  make  out  their  form,  which,  perhaps, 
were  merely  walled  around,  and  had  ranges  of  steps  io 
front  and  rear,  as  at  Uxmal,  or  terraces  or  raised  plat- 
forms of  earth,  at  most  of  three  or  four  ranges,  not  of 
any  precise  form,  but  never  square,  and  with  small  ran- 
ges of  steps  in  the  centre.  Besides,  the  pyraraids  of 
Egypt  are  known  to  have  interior  chambers,  and,  what- 
ever  their  other  uses,  to  have  been  intended  and  used 
as  sepulchres.  These,  on  the  contrary,  are  of  solid 
•anh  awksStwe-    No  interioz  chambers  have  ever  been 


#  » 


'^^■r^ 


if  Bg^|H 


ill  Ae  iMter  pill 
if  ingriv  flCoiiBs  «!  ^e  biMt  niiiih  origiaaUjr  fiBad  vp 
die  interstioes  betwMn  Ae  ftept,  but  hft^e  fiiUen  cIidwil 
In  the  upper  part  the  intemiediate  kyen  are  still  in  their 
places,  and  tke  aides  present  a  ilnooth  snrfeee  to  the  top. 
There  is  no  dosbt  that  origimD^  every  pyramid  in  Egypt 
was  bnih  with  its  aides  perf&stlyamooth.  The  steps 
farmed  no  part  of  the  plan.  It  is  in  fhia  state  only  that 
Aey  oaght  to  be  eonsideredy  and  in  this  state  any  pos- 
s3ble  resemblance  between  them  and  what  are  called 
ihB  pynumds  of  America^  oease& 

Next  to  the  pyramids,  the  oldest  remains  of  Egyp- 
tian arehiteotw  e,  snoh  as  the  temple  of  Absambool  ia 
Nnbia,  like  those  of  the  Hindas,  are  excavations  in  the 
toeky  from  which  it  haa  been  snppoeed  tfiat  the  Egyp* 
tians  derived  their  style  from  that  peoplew  In  later 
times  they  conwoenced  erecting  temples  above  gronnd, 
retaining  the  same  features  of  gloomy  grandenri  and 


WJK' 


'• 


■  OTPTIAK    ASCHITSCTVEE.  441 

remarkable  for  their  vastnesa  and  the  maasivenesB  of 
the  atone  used  in  their  construction.  This  does  not 
seem  to  have  been  aimed  at  by  the  American  buildera. 
Among  all  these  ruins  we  did  not  see  a  stone  worthj 
of  being  laid  on  the  waUs  of  an  Egyptian  temple.  The 
largest  single  blocks  were  the  ^'  idols"  or  "  obelisks/' 
as  they  have  been  called,  of  Copan  and  Quirigua ;  but  in 
Egypt  stones  large  as  these  are  raised  to  a  height  of  twen* 
ty  or  thirty  feet  and  laid  in  the  walls,  while  the  obelisks 
which  stand  as  ornaments  at  the  doors,  towering,  a  sin* 
gle  stone,  to  the  height  of  ninety  feet,  so  overpower  them 
by  their  grandeur,  that,  if  imitations,  they  are  the  fee- 
blest ever  attempted  by  aspiring  men. 

Again :  colunuis  are  a  distinguishing  feature  of  Egyp* 
tian  architecture,  grand  and  massive,  and  at  this  day 
towering  above  the  sands,  startling  the  wondering  trav* 
eller  in  that  mysterious  country.  There  is  not  a  temple 
on  the  Nile  without  them ;  and  the  reader  will  bear  in 
mind,  that  among  the  whole  of  these  ruins  not  one  col- 
umn has  been  found.  If  this  architecture  had  been 
derived  from  the  Egyptian,  so  striking  and  important  a 
feature  would  never  have  been  thrown  aside.  The 
dromoSy  pronaos,  and  adytum,  all  equally  charaoteriatie 
of  Eg^tian  temples,  are  also  here  entirely  wanting. 

Next,  as  to  sculpture.  The  idea  of  resemblance  in 
this  particular  has  been  so  often  and  so  confidently  ex* 
pressed,  and  the  drawings  in  these  pages  have  so  often 
given  the  same  impression,  that  I  almost  hesitate  to  de- 
clare the  total  want  of  similarity.  What  the  differences 
are  I  will  not  attempt  to  point  out ;  but,  that  the  reader 
may  have  the  whole  subject  before  him  at  once,  I  have 
introduced  a  plate  of  Egyptian  sculpture  taken  from 
Mr.  Catherwood's  portfolio.  The  subject  on  the  rig^t 
»  from  the  side  of  the  great  monument  at  Thebes  known 

Vol.  n.— 3  K 


44S  IHCIDSXT8    OP    T&ATBU 

as  die  vocal  Memnon,  and  has  never  before  been  en- 
graved. The  other  is  the  top  of  the  fallen  obelisk  of 
Oarnac;  and  t  think,  by  comparison  with  the  engra- 
vings before  presented,  it  vrill  be  found  that  there  is  no 
resemblance  whatever.  If  there  be  any  at  all  striking, 
it  is  only  that  the  figures  are  in  profile,  and  this  is 
equally  true  of  all  good  sculpture  in  bas-relief. 

There  is,  then,  no  resemblance  in  these  remains  to 
those  of  the  Egyptians ;  and,  failing  here,  we  look  else- 
where in  vain.  They  are  different  from  the  works  of 
any  other  known  people,  of  a  new  order,  and  entirely 
and  absolutely  anomalous :  they  stand  alone. 

I  invite  to  this  subject  the  special  attention  of  those 
fjumiliar  with  the  arts  of  other  countries ;  for,  unless  I  am 
vrrong,  we  have  a  conclusion  far  more  interesting  and 
wonderfiil  than  that  of  connecting  the  builders  of  these 
cities  with  the  Egyptians  or  any  other  people.  It  is  the 
^ectacle  of  a  people  skilled  in  architecture,  sculpture, 
and  drawing,  and,  beyond  doubt,  other  more  perishable 
arts,  and  possessing  the  cultivation  and  refinement  at- 
tendant upon  these,  not  derived  from  the  Old  World, 
but  originating  and  growing  up  here,  without  models  or 
masters,  having  a  distinct,  separate,  independefht  exist- 
ence ;  like  the  plants  and  fruits  of  the  soil,  indigenous. 

I  shall  not  attempt  to  inquire  into  the  origin  of  this 
people,  from  what  country  they  came,  or  when,  or  how; 
I  shall  confine  myself  to  their  works  and  to  the  ruins. 

I  am  inclined  to  think  that  there  are  not  sufficient 
grounds  for  the  beliqf  in  the  great  antiquity  that  has 
been  ascribed  to  these  ruins ;  that  they  are  not  the 
works  of  people  who  have  passed  away,  and  whose  his- 
tory has  become  unknown ;  but,  opposed  as  is  my  idea 
to  all  previous  speculations,  that  they  were  constructed 
by  the  races  who  occupied  the  country  at  the  time  of 


COMPARATITB     MOOBKN    DATS     OV    RVIN8.  4M 

the  invasion  by  the  Spaniards,  or  of  some  not  very  dm 
tant  progenitors. 

And  tlus  opinion  is  founded,  first,  upon  the  appeaor* 
ance  and  condition  of  the  remains  themselves.  Tha 
climate  and  rank  luxuriance  of  soil  are  most  destructive 
to  all  perishable  materials.  For  six  months  every  year 
exposed  to  the  deluge  of  tropical  rains,  and  with  trees 
growing  through  the  doorways  of  buildings  and  on  the 
tops,  it  seems  impossible  that,  after  a  lapse  of  two  or 
three  thousand  years,  a  single  edifice  could  now  be 
standing. 

The  existence  of  wooden  beams,  and  at  Uxmal  in  a 
perfect  state  of  preservation,  confirms  this  opinion.  The 
durability  of  wood  Avill  depend  upon  its  quality  and 
exposure.  In  Egypt,  it  is  true,  wood  has  been  djt* 
covered  sound  and  perfect,  and  certainly  three  thoo- 
sand  years  old ;  but  even  in  that  dry  climate  none  has 
ever  been  found  in  a  situation  at  all  exposed.  It  occurs 
only  in  coffins  in  the  tombs  and  mummy-pits  of  ThebeSi 
and  in  wooden  cramps  connecting  two  stones  togethefi 
completely  shut  in  and  excluded  from  the  air. 

Secondly,  my  opinion  is  founded  upon  historical  ai>- 
counts.  Herrera,  perhaps  the  most  reliable  -of  the  Span-^ 
ish  historians,  says  of  Yucatan :  ''  The  whole  country  is 
divided  into  eighteen  districts,  and  in  all  of  them  were 
so  many  and  such  stately  Stone  Buildings  that  it  was 
amazing,  and  the  greatest  Wonder  is,  that  having  no 
Use  of  any  Metal,  they  were  able  to  raise  such  Struo 
tures,  which  seem  to  have  been  Temples,  for  their 
Houses  were  always  of  Timber  and  thatched.  In  those 
Edifices  were  carved  the  Figures  of  naked  Men,  with 
Earrings  after  the  Indian  manner,  Idols  of  all  SortS| 
Lions,  Pots  or  Jarrs,"  d&c. ;  and  again,  ^*  after  the  part- 
ing of  these  lords,  for  die  space  of  twenty  years  ttaera 


444  IirciDKHTfl    OF   TKATSI*. 

was  such  plenty  tbiongh  the  Coimtiy,  and  tlie  People 
multiplied  so  much,  that  old  Men  aaid  the  whole  Piov- 
inee  looked  like  one  Town,  and  then  they  applied  them- 
aeWes  to  build  more  Temples,  which  produced  ao  gceat 
a  number  of  them.*' 

Of  the  natives  he  says,  ''  They  fUManed  their  Headi 
and  Foreheads,  their  Eotm  bor^d  witk  Bimgs  in  tkeau 
Their  Faces  were  generally  good,  and  not  very  brown, 
bmt  uritiunU  Beards^  for  they  scorched  them  when  youngs 
that  they  might  not  grow.  Their  Hair  was  Umg  tike 
Women,  and  in  Tresses,  with  which  they  made  a  Grsr- 
land  about  the  Head,  and  a  Hiile  TaU  hung  behind.'' 
"  The  prime  Men  wixre  a  Rowler  eight  Fingers  broad 
round  about  them  instead  of  Breeches,  and  going  sec* 
eral  times  round  the  Wastej  so  thai  one  end  of  it  huMg 
before  and  the  other  behind,  with  fine  Feather-work,  and 
had  large  square  Mantles  knotted  on  their  Shoulders,  and 
Sandals  or  Buskins  made  of  Deer's  Skins."  The  read* 
er  almost  sees  here,  in  the  flatted  heads  and  costumes 
of  the  natives,  a  picture  of  the  sculptured  and  stuccoed 
figures  at  Palenque,  which,  though  a  little  beyond  the 
present  territorial  borders  of  Yucatan,  was  perhaps  once 
a  part  of  that  province. 

Besides  the  glowing  and  familiar  descriptions  given 
by  Cortez  of  the  splendour  exhibited  in  the  building 
of  Mexico,  I  have  within  my  reach  the  authority  of  but 
one  eyewitness.  It  is  that  of  Bernal  Diaz  de  Castillo, 
a  follower  and  sharer  in  all  the  expeditions  attending 
the  conquest  of  Mexico. 

Beginning  with  the  first  expedition,  he  says,  '^  On 
approaching  Yucatan,  we  perceived  a  large  town  at  the 
distance  of  two  leagues  from  the  coast,  which,  from  iU 
size,  it  exceeding  any  town  in  Cuba,  we  named  Grand 
Cairo."     Upon  the  invitation  of  a  chief,  who  came  oS 


ACCOUNT     OF     SBRNAL     DIAZ.  445 

in  a  canoe,  they  went  ashore,  and  set  out  to  marcb  to 
the  town,  but  on  their  way  were  surprised  by  the  na- 
tives, whom,  however,  they  repulsed,  killing  fifteen. 
"Near  tlie  place  of  this  ambnscade,"  he  says,  "were 
three  buildings  of  iime  and  stone,  wherein  were  idola  of 
clay  with  diabolical  countenances,"  &,c.  "  The  build- 
iags  of  Ihne  atiU  stone,  luid  the  gold,  gave  us  a  high  idea 
of  (he  country  we  had  discovered." 

Tn  iiiteen  days'  ftutbcr  sailing,  they  discovered  from 
Ihe  ships  a  large  town,  with  an  inlet,  and  went  eshore 
for  water.  While  ^ling  iheir  casks  they  were  accost- 
ed by  fifty  Indians,  "  dressed  iii  cotton  mantles,"  who 
"  by  sigus  invited  us  to  their  town."  Proceeding  thith- 
er, they  "  arrived  at  some  large  and  very  well-construct- 
ed buildings  oi  Ume  ami  stone,  vr\i\i  figures  of  serpents 
and  of  ithis  painted  upon  the  walls." 

In  the  second  expedition,  sailing  along  the  coast,  they 
passed  a  low  island,  about  three  leagues  from  the  main, 
where,  on  going  ashore,  they  found  "  two  buildings  of 
Ume  and  stone,  well  constructed,  each  with  steps,  and 
sn  altar  placed  before  certain  hideous  figures,  the  rep- 
Tcsentalions  of  the  gods  of  these  Indians." 

His  third  expedition  was  under  Coriez,  and  in  this 
his  regard  for  truth  and  the  reliance  that  may  be  placed 
Tipoa  him  are  happily  shown  in  the  struggle  between 
deep  religious  feeling  and  behef  in  the  evidence  of  his 
senses,  which  appears  in  his  comment  upon  Gomare's 
account  of  their  first  battle.  "  In  his  account  of  this 
action,  Gom^ra  says  tiiat,  previous  to  the  arrival  of  the 
main  body  under  Corlez,  Frauciaco  de  Morla  appeared 
in  the  field  upon  a  gray  dappled  horse,  and  that  it  was 
one  of  the  holy  apostles,  Si.  Peter  or  St.  Jago,  disguised 
tmder  his  person.  1  say  that  all  our  works  and  victo- 
ries are  guided  by  the  hand  of  our  Iiord  Jesus  Chris^ 


J 


\ 


I, 


446  »xctDB:9T«  or  tjiatil. 

flnd  that  in  tbis  battle  there  were  so  many  gn^n^f  to 
every  one  of  ua,  that  they  could  haTe  buried  v  under 
the  dust  they  could  have  held  in  their  handsi  but  that 
the  great  mercy  of  Qod  aided  ua  throughout.  What 
(}omara  aaserta  may  be  the  cbmb^  and  I,  sinner  as  I  am, 
was  not  permitted  to  see  it.  What  I  did  aee  waa 
FranciBCO  de  Morla  riding  in  company  with  Cortes  and 
the  rest  upon  a  chestnut  horse.  But  although  I,  unwor- 
thy sinner  that  I  am,  was  unfit  to  behold  either  of  these 
apostles,  upward  of  four  hundred  of  us  were  present. 
Let  their  testimony  be  taken.  Let  inquiry  alao  be  made 
how  it  happened  that,  when  the  town  was  founded  on 
that  spot,  it  was  not  named  after  one  or  other  of  these 
holy  ap€>stles,  and  called  St.  Jago  de  la  Yittoria  or  St. 
Pedro  de  la  Yittoria,  as  it  was  Santa  Maiia,  and  a  church 
erected  and  dedicated  to  one  of  these  holy  saints. 
Yery  bad  Christians  were  we,  indeed,  according  to  the 
account  of  Gomara,  who,  when  God  sent  us  his  apos- 
tles to  fight  at  our  head,  did  not  every  day  after  ac- 
knowledge and  return  thanks  for  so  great  a  mercy  !" 

Setting  out  on  their  march  to  Mexico,  they  arrived  at 
Cempoal,  entering  which,  he  says,  ''  We  were  surprised 
with  the  beauty  of  the  buildiugs."  ''  Our  advanced 
guard  having  gone  to  the  great  square,  the  buildings  of 
which  had  been  lately  whitewashed  and  pUistered^  in 
which  art  these  people  are  very  expert^  one  of  our  horse- 
men was  so  struck  with  the  splendour  of  their  appear- 
ance in  the  sun,  that  he  came  back  in  full  speed  to 
Cortcz  to  tell  him  that  the  walls  of  the  houses  were  of 
silver." 

Offended  by  the  abominable  custom  of  human  sacri- 
fices, Cortez  determined  to  suppress  by  force  their  idol- 
atrous worship,  and  destroy  their  false  gods.  The 
chiefs  ordered  the  people  to  arm  in  defence  of 


n 


BB&NAIi    DIAI    ON    THB    TBXFX.1B.  447 

lamptte ;  **  but  when  they  mw  that  we  were  preparing 
to  ascend  ike  greai  fiigkt  cf  sitps"  they  said  ^*  they 
could  not  help  themselves ;  and  they  had  hardly  said 
this,  when  fifty  of  us,  going  tip  for  the  purpose,  throw 
down  and  broke  in  pieces  the  enormous  idoh  which  we 
found  within  the  temple."  Cortes  then  caused  a  num- 
ber of  '<  Indian  masam  to  be  collected,  wUk  Ims,  wkidi 
abounded  in  that  place,  and  had  the  walls  cleared  cf 
blood  end  new  plastered.^^ 

As  they  approached  the  territory  of  Mexico,  he  con* 
tinues, ''  Appearances  demonstrated  that  we  had  entered 
a  new  country,  for  the  temples  were  very  lofiy^  and,  to* 
gether  with  the  terraced  dwellmgt  and  the  houses  of  the 
cacique,  being  piastered  and  whitewashed,  appeared  very 
well,  and  resembled  some  of  our  towns  in  Spain." 

Farther  on  he  says,  '^  We  arrived  at  a  kind  of  fortifi- 
cation, built  of  lime  and  etonej  of  so  strong  a  nature  that 
nothing  but  tools  of  iron  could  have  any  effect  upon  it 
The  people  informed  us  that  it  was  built  by  the  Tlascsi* 
lans,  on  whose  territory  it  stood,  as  a  defence  against 
the  incursions  of  the  Mexicans." 

At  Tehuacingo,  after  a  sanguinary  battle,  in  which 
the  Indians  '^  drew  off  and  left  the  field  to  them,  who 
were  too  much  fatigued  to  follow,"  he  adds,  ''  As  soon 
as  we  found  ourselves  clear  of  them,  we  returned  thanks 
to  God  for  his  mercy,  and,  entering  a  strong  and  spa» 
cUms  temple^  we  dressed  our  wounds  with  the  fat  of  In* 
dians." 

Arrived  at  Cholula,  Cortez  inunediately  ^'  sent  some 
soldiers  to  a  greai  temple  hard  by  our  quarters,  with  or- 
ders to  bring,  as  quietly  as  they  could,  two  priests." 
In  this  they  succeeded.  One  of  them  was  a  person  of 
rank  and  authority  over  all  the  temples  of  the  dty. 
Again '  <<  wWiin  the  high  walls  of  the  courts  where  we 

39 


Itm         ^«.i     MfClVSJTTS    OF   TBAt-ttl..    ^ 

ffma»  qonrtared.''. :  And  agam :  'the  city  of  Chdoh,  lit 
«9B|'''miichfei6iDlilodV«lldUilid^  It  <«  had  at  Ihit 
•fane  above  a  hnndftd  ioflif  taftite  iomen^  wUdi  were 
Ihe  teiqdcpi  of  their  idok.  The  principal  tenqde  wis 
ki^er  tfaandiat ef  Meiioo, and  each  of  thaie  Imldingi 
vaa  plaoed  in  «  9ad0wr  CDicrt" 
f.^  Approaching  the  dtj  of  llezieo,  he  grves  waj  to  a 
tanrit  of  enthwiann.  *^  We  ooold  oompare  it  to  nodmg 
hot  the  enchanted  scenes  we  had  read  of  in  Amadis  de 
6anl|  from  the  greai.towmn^  and  Umpkif  and  other  edf- 
'^ku  of  ttm  oful  Jtena  which  seemed  to  rise  up  out  of 
die  water.'' 

i :  <'  We  were  iecei?ed  by  great  lords  of  that  eoontrj, 
lelatioas  of  Montennnai  who  conducted  ns  to  our  lodg* 
nigs  there  in  polaeei  magnificently  built  of  $bme^  the 
timber  of  whidi  was  oedar,  with  ipaetous  eomU  and 
qpartmMits  furnished  with  canopies  of  the  Jinesf  eolfoa. 
The  whole  was  ornamented  with  warkt  of  art  painied^ 
and  admirably  plastered  and  whitened,  and  it  was  ren- 
dered more  delightful  by  numbers  of  beautiful  birds.*' 

"  The  palace  in  which  we  were  lodged  was  very  light, 
airy,  clean,  and  pleasant,  the  entry  being  through  a  great 
court," 

Montezuma,  in  his  first  interview  with  Cortez,  says, 
<^  The  Tlascalans  have,  I  know,  told  you  that  I  am  like 
a  god,  and  that  all  about  me  is  gold,  and  silver,  and 
precious  stones ;  but  you  now  see  that  I  am  mere  flesh 
and  blood,  and  that  my  houses  are  built  like  other  houses^ 
of  limej  and  stone^  and  timber,^* 

^^  At  the  great  square  we  were  astonished  at  die 
crowds  of  people  and  the  regularity  which  prevailed, 
and  the  vast  quantities  of  merchandise." 

<<  The  entire  square  was  enclosed  in  piazsas." 

*^  From  the  square  we  proceeded  to  the  great  temple, 


CITIB0.  OF    THB     HBXICAM8.  449 

bat  before  we  entered  it  we  made  a  circuit  throogfa  a 
number  of  large  courts^  the  smallest  of  which  appeared 
to  me  to  contain  more  ground  than  the  great  square  of 
Salamanca,  with  double  enclosures,  buiU  of  lime  and 
sUme^  and  the  courts  paved  with  large  white  cut  stones, 
or,  where  not  paved,  they  were  plastered  and  polished.^* 
^^  The  ascent  to  the  great  temple  was  by  a  hundred 
and  fourteen  steps.*^ 

^'  From  the  platform  on  the  summit  of  the  temple, 
Montezuma,  taking  Cortez  by  the  hand,  pointed  out 
to  him  the  different  parts  of  the  city  and  its  vicinity,  all 
of  which  were  commanded  from  that  place."  ^<We 
observed  also  the  temples  and  adoratories  of  the  adja- 
cent cities,  built  in  the  form  of  towers  and  fortresseSy 
and  others  on  the  causeway,  all  whitewashed  and  won- 
derfully brilliant^" 

^'  The  noise  and  bustle  of  the  market-place  could  be 
heard  almost  a  league  off,  and  those  who  had  been  at 
Rome  and  Constantinople  said  that  for  convenience, 
regularity,  and  population  they  had  never  seen  the 
like.'2 

During  the  siege  he  speaks  of  being  ^^  quartered  in  a 
lofty  temple;^*  "  marching  tg>  the  steps  of  the  temple;** 
*^  some  lofty  temples  which  we  now  battered  with  our  ar- 
tillery ;"  "  the  lofty  temples  where  Diego  Velasquez  and 
Salvatierra  were  posted ;"  ^^  the  breaches  which  they  had 
made  in  the  walls  ;^^  ^'  ciU  stone  taken  from  the  build- 
ings from  the  terraces." 

Arrived  at  the  great  temple,  instantly  above  four 
thousand  Mexicans  rushed  up  into  it,  who  for  bobob 
time  prevented  them  from  ascending.  <*  Although  the 
cavalry  several  times  attempted  to  charge,  the  stone 
pavements  of  the  courts  of  the  temple  were  so  smooth 
that  the  bofses  oould  not  keep  their  feet,  and  felL** 
Vol.  n.— 3  L 


4il0  '  I iroi»BirT9  trvK*^ ITBU 

>*^Thttr  nnmben  were  eneh  that  we  eoidd  Mt  mdoB 
■ny  effeotoal  impreHioii  or  mmnI  Ifttf  flqx«.  iLt  kngA 
we  /oreirf  mr  My  mp.  Here  Cortes  showed  bimself 
ibeman  that  hefeallywas.  What  a  deqierate  engage- 
meat  we  then  had  I  ETerjmanof  aawaecofetedwidi 
Mood." 

-  '<  They  drote  os  dmm  six,  tmd  0M1  im  €ftke  tiepi; 
while  others  who  were  in  the  oorridorsi  or  within  aide 
of  the  railing^  and  ooncaTitiaa  of  the  great  trasple,  shot 
ench  oloods  of  anows  at  ns  that  we  ooold  not  main- 
tain our  ground,''  <*  began  oar  rMreati  ererj  man  of  m 
being  wounded,  and  forty-six  of  us  kft  dead  on  the 
qMit«  I  haTe  often  seen  this  engagement  represented 
•^  the  jMriaftogy  of  the  natives  both  of  Mezioo  and  Tbs- 
oala,  aad  oar  orasa*  into  Ike  grmA  lewipbJ* 

Again,  he  speaks  of  arriving  at  a  viUage  and  taking 
up  tfieir  '*  quarters  <a  a  sinmf  ImHpk;**  <<  assaulting 
them  at  their  posts  in  the  temples  and  larg^  waited  ea- 
closures.^' 

At  Tezcuco  ^*  we  took  up  onr  quarters  in  some  build- 
ings which  consisted  of  large  haUs  and  enclosed  cowrts.^* 
<<  Alvaradoi  De  Oli,  and  some  soldiers,  whereof  I  was 
one,  then  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  great  temple^  which 
was  very  lofty ^  in  order  to  notice  what  was  going  on  in 
the  neighbourhood." 

<^  We  proceeded  to  another  town  called  Terrajruco, 
but  which  we  named  the  town  of  the  serpents^  on  ac- 
count of  the  enormous  figures  of  those  animals  wliich  we 
found  in  their  temples,  and  which  they  worshipped  as 
gods." 

Again :  ^^  In  this  garden  our  whole  force  lodged  for 
the  night.  I  certainly  never  had  seen  one  of  such  mag- 
nificence ;  and  Cortes  and  the  treasurer  Alderete,  after 
they  had  ¥ralked  through  and  examined  it,  declared  that 


TOWBEBy    COVETBy    BTO.  461 

it  was  admirable,  and  equal  to  any  they  had  ever  seen 
in  Castille." 

^^  I  and  ten  more  soldiers  were  posted  as  a  guard 
upon  a  wall  of  time  and  sUmeJ*^ 

"  When  we  arrived  at  our  quarters  at  Jacuba  it  rain* 
ed  heavilyi  and  we  remained  under  it  for  two  hours  in 
some  large  enclosed  courts.  The  general,  with  his  cap- 
tains, the  treasurer,  our  reverend  father,  and  many  others 
of  us,  mounted  to  the  top  of  the  temple^  which  command- 
ed all  the  lake." 

^<  We  crossed  the  water  up  to  our  necks  at  the  pass 
they  had  left  qpen,  and  followed  them  until  we  came  to 
a  place  where  were  large  iempks  and  towere  ofidoli*** 

**  As  Cortes  now  lodged  at  Cuejoacan,  in  large  build* 
ings  with  white  waUs,  very  well  adapted  for  soribbling 
on,  there  appealed  every  morning  libels  against  him  in 
prose  and  verse.    I  recollect  the  words  of  one  only : 

*  One  trista  etta  d  afana  mea 
Haita  qoe  la  paite  tea.' 

How  anxious  I  am  for  a  share  of  the  plunder." 

''  When  our  party  (for  I  went  with  Sandoval)  arrived 
at  Tustepeque,  I  took  up  my  lodgings  in  the  summit  of 
a  tower  in  a  very  high  temple^  partly  for  the  fresh  air 
and  to  avoid  the  moschetoes,  which  were  very  trouble* 
some  below,  and  partly  to  be  near  Sandoval's  quarters." 
^<  We  pursued  our  route  to  the  city  of  Chiapas,  in  the 
same  province  with  Palenque,  and  a  city  it  might  be 
called,  from  the  regularity  of  its  streets  and  houses.  It 
contained  not  less  than  four  thousand  families,  not  reck- 
oning the  population  of  the  many  dependant  towns  in 
its  neighbourhood."  ^^  We  found  the  whole  force  of 
Chiapas  drawn  up  to  receive  us.  Their  troops  were- 
adorned  with  plumage." 

^  On  oiur  arrival  we  found  it  too  closely  built  to  be 


4St  Xll014>»ll*f>     or    XMA-WMi^ 

§BtAj  occupied  by  Ui,  ttid  we-.flMffe6m  pitelMd  oiif 
ounp  in  the  open  field.  In  their  UmpU»  we  fbiBMiidob 
<yf  B  horrid  figore.'' 

•  Now  it  will  be  recoUactad  that  BemAl  Diai  wrote  to 
d6  jnstice  to  himeelf  atid  other»<tf  the  <*  trne  conquetoia/* 
his  oompanionB  in  arms,  whoee  iiune  had  been  obaoored 
bf  other  hiatorians  not  actors  and  eyewitneaaea ;  all  his 
lafereneea  to  boildinga  are  incidental ;  heneirer  expect* 
ed  to  be  eiled  as  authority  upon  the  antiqaitiea  of  the 
ooontry.  The  pettiest  skirmish  with  the  nativea  waa 
lietter  his  heart  than  all  die  edifioea  of  lime  and  stone 
tvhich  he  saw^  and  it  ia  preoisefy  on  that  account  that 
his  testimony  is  the  mora  valuable.  It  waa  written  at  a 
ttiis  whan  there  ware  many  living  who  oould  contradict 
Utn  if  inoorract  o»  ialae*  Hie  ^^  tma  history''  nemr  was 
tepeached;  on  the  confraaryiwliile  its  stile  waa  consid- 
ered rade  and  indagant,  its  fidelity  and  trvth  have  been 
acknowledged  by  all  contemporaneous  and  subsequent 
historians.  In  my  opinion,  it  is  as  true  and  reliable  as 
any  work  of  frtwels  on  the  countries  through  which  he 
fought  his  way.  It  gives  the  hurried  and  imperfect  ob- 
servations of  an  unlettered  soldier,  whose  sword  was 
seldom  in  its  dcabbard,  surrounded  by  dangers,  attack- 
ing, retreating,  wounded,  and  flying,  with  his  mind  con- 
stantly occupied  by  matters  of  more  pressing  moment. 

The  reader  cannot  fail  to  be  struck  with  the  general 
resemblance  between  the  objects  described  by  him  and 
the  scenes  referred  to  in  these  pages.  His  account 
presents  to  my  mind  a  vivid  picture  of  the  ruined  cities 
which  we  visited,  as  they  once  stood,  with  building's  of 
Kme  and  stone^  painted  and  sculptured  amamentSf  and 
plastered;  idolsj  courts^  strong  wallSf  and  loft^  temples 
with  high  ranges  of  steps. 

Bnt  if  this  is  not  sufficient^ I  have  farther  and  atrong- 


XSXICAN    ANTIQUITIlt.  MS 

er  stipport.     After  the  siege  of  Mexico,  on  the  te^nttf 

of  the  SpaniardBi  a  ruthless  and  indiscriminate  destruc* 

tion  fell  upon  every  building  and  monument  in  the  city« 

No  me^norials  of  the  arts  of  the  Mexicans  were  left ; 

but  in  the  year  1790,  two  statues  and  a  flat  stone,  with 

sculptured  characters  relative  to  the  Mexican  calendar, 

were  discovered  and  dug  up  from  among  the  remains 

of  the^great  Teocalli  in  the  plaza  of  the  city  of  Mexico, 

The  statues  excited  great  interest  among  the  Mexican 

Indians,  and  the  priestSi  afraid  of  their  relapsing  into 

idolatry,  and  to  destroy  all  memorials  of  their  ancient 

rites,  buried  them  in  the  court  of  the  Franciscan  Con^ 

vent.     The  calendar  was  fixed  in  a  conspicuous  place 

in  the  wall  of  the  Cathedral,  where  it  now  stands.    In 

the  centre,  and  forming  the  principal  subject  of  this 

calendar,  is  a  face,  published  in  Humboldt's  work, 

which  in  one  particular  bears  so  strong  a  resemblance 

to  that  called  the  mask,  in  the  frontispiece  of  this  volume, 

as  to  suggest  the  idea  that  they  were  intended  for  the 

same.    There  are  palpable  differences,  but  perhaps  the 

expression  of  the  eyes  is  changed  and  improved  in  the 

engraving  published,  and,  at  all  events,  in  both  the  pe« 

culiar  and  striking  feature  is  that  of  the  tongue  hanging 

out  of  the  mouth.    The  calendar  is  in  bas-relief,  and, 

as  I  understand  from  a  gentleman  who  has  seen  it,  the 

sculpture  is  good.* 

And,  lastly,  among  the  hieroglyphical  paintings  which 
escaped  destruction  from  monkish  fanaticism  are  cer- 
tain Mexican  manuscripts  now  in  the  libraries  of  Dres- 
den and  Vienna.  These  have  been  published  in  Hum- 
boldt's work  and  in  that  of  Lord  Eangsbcwough,  and,  on 
a  careful  examination,  we  are  strongly  of  the  opinion 
that  the  characters  are  the  same  with  those  found  on 

•  Tom  dt  iM  OoidillHM^  voL  iiiL»  p.  sail 


^  moDOinenta  and  taibleta  it  Oopra^uid  Kknqnek 
Vorthesaka  of  oompariKml  baninbodaoadifiBintha 
Mgiaving  of  the  tap  (tf  flu  altar  at  Copan,  and  anodwr 
fioBi  a  luerogbjrphioal  mannaorqit  pabUtbed-  in  Hum- 
boldt'* vqtJ 


tm-^mum 


mmmm- 


THB    aWXLDBK0   419    TIBSB    OITIBt. 

Imft  it  most  be  b<»ne  in  mind  that  in  the  farmer  the  efans 
ectere  are  carded  on  stonci  and  in  the  latter  written  on 
paper  (made  of  the  Agave  Mexioana).  Probably,  far 
this  reason,  they  want  the  same  regularity  and  finish ; 
but,  altogether,  the  reader  cannot  fail  to  mark  the 
strong  similarity,  and  this  similarity  cannot  be  acd*- 
dentaL  The  inference  is,  that  the  Aztecs  or  Mexicans, 
at  the  time  of  the  conquest,  had  the  same  written  km* 
guage  with  the  people  of  Copan  and  Palenque. 

I  have  thus  very  briefly,  and  without  attempting  to 
controvert  the  opinions  and  speculations  of  others,  pre* 
sented  our  own  views  upon  the  subject  of  these  ruins^ 
As  yet  we  perhaps  stand  alone  in  these  views,  but  I 
repeat  my  opinion  that  we  are  not  warranted  in  going 
back  to  any  ancient  nation  of  the  Old  World  for  the 
builders  of  these  cities ;  that  they  are  not  the  work  of 
people  who  have  passed  away  and  whose  history  is  lost, 
but  that  there  are  strong  reasons  to  believe  them  the 
creations  of  the  same  races  who  inhabited  the  country  at 
the  time  of  the  Spanish  conquest,  or  some  not  very  dis- 
tant progenitors.  And  I  would  remark  that  we  began 
our  exploration  without  any  theory  to  support.  Our 
feelings  were  in  favour  of  going  back  to  a  high  and 
venerable  antiquity.  During  the  greater  part  of  oar 
journey  we  were  groping  in  the  dark,  in  doubt  and  on* 
certainty,  and  it  was  not  until  our  arrival  at  the  ruins  of 
Uxmal  that  we  formed  our  opinion  of  their  compara« 
tively  modern  date.  Some  are  beyond  doubt  older  than 
others ;  some  are  known  to  have  been  inhabited  at  the 
time  of  the  Spanish  conquest,  and  others,  perhaps,  were 
really  in  ruins  before  ;  and  there  are  points  of  difference 
which  as  yet  eannot  very  readily  be  explained ;  but  in  re* 
gard  to  Uxmal,  at  least,  we  believe  that  it  was  an  ex- 
isting and  inhabited  city  at  the  time  of  the  arrival  of  the 


4M       ..  1.  i9f)0U>BMTt   or  TmAVBL. 

fl|iftfiii^wlM-  Its  desohtion  and  rina  nnoe  are  euilf  ae- 
eounted  for.  With  the  amval  of  the  G^iaiiiaxda  the 
aeeptre  of  the  Indians  departed.  In  the  city  of  Mez- 
ieo  erery  honse  was  rased  to  the  ground,  and,  beyond 
ddnbt,  throughoot  the  country  eTMy  galhering*plaoe 
or  stronghold  was  broken  up,  the  comninnities  scat- 
teced|  their  lofty  temples  thrown  down,  and  their  idds 
bbmed,  the  palaces  of  the  caoiqoes  ruined,  the  caciques 
themselves  made  bondmen,  and,  by  the  same  ruthless 
policy  which  from  time  immemorial  has  been  pursued 
in  a  conquered  country,  all  tlte  mementoes  of  their  aa- 
oestors  and  lost  independence  were  destroyed  or  made 
odious  in  their  eyes.  And,  without  this,  we  have  au- 
Aentio  accounts  of  great  scourges  whidi  swept  over,  and 
lor  a  time  depopulated  and  desolated^  the  whole  of  Yu- 
catan. 

It  perhaps  destroys  much  of  the  interest  that  hangs 
over  these  ruins  to  assign  to  them  a  modem  date ;  but 
we  live  in  an  age  whose  spirit  is  to  discard  phantasms 
and  arrive  at  truth,  and  the  interest  lost  in  one  partic- 
nlar  is  supplied  in  another  scarcely  inferior;  for,  the 
nearer  we  can  bring  the  builders  of  these  cities  to  our 
own  times,  the  greater  is  our  chance  of  knowing  all. 
Throughout  the  country  the  convents  are  rich  in  manu* 
scripts  and  documents  written  by  the  early  fathers,  ca- 
ciques, and  Indians,  who  very  soon  acquired  the  knowl- 
edge of  Spanish  and  the  art  of  writing.  These  have 
never  been  examined  with  the  slightest  reference  to  this 
subject ;  and  I  cannot  help  thinking  that  some  precious 
memorial  is  now  mouldering  in  the  library  of  a  neigh- 
bouring  convent,  which  would  determine  the  history  of 
some  one  of  these  ruined  cities;  moreover,  I  cannot 
help  believing  that  the  tablets  of  hieroglyjAics  will  yet 
be  read.    No  strong  curiosity  has  hitherto  been  direel- 


IKHABITAJtTI    yXOlABLT    HOT    BXTIKCT.  457 

ed  to  them ;  vigoor  nd  acoleneM  of  intelleoti  knowl- 
adge  and  laarningi  have  neTer  been  expended  upon 
them.  For  centuries  the  hieroglyphics  of  Egypt  were 
inecmtable,  and,  thou^^  not  perhq>s  in  our  day,  I  feel 
persuaded  that  a  key  surer  than  that  of  the  Rosetta  stone 
will  be  discovered.  And  if  only  three  centuries  have 
elapsed  since  any  one  of  these  unknown  cities  was  in- 
habitedi  the  race  of  the  inhabitants  is  not  extinct.  Their 
descendants  are  still  in  the  land,  scattered,  perhaps,  and 
retired,  like  our  own  Indians,  into  wildernesses  which 
have  never  yet  been  penetrated  by  a  white  man,  but 
not  lost ;  living  as  their  fathers  did,  erecting  the  same 
buildings  of  ''lime  and  stone,"  ''with  ornaments  of 
sculpture  and  plastered,"  *' large  courts,"  and  "lofty 
towers  with  high  ranges  of  steps,"  and  still  carving  on 
tablets  of  stone  the  same  mysterious  hieroglyphics;  and 
if,  in  consideration  that  I  have  not  often  indulged  in 
speculative  conjecture,  the  reader  will  allow  one  flight, 
I  turn  to  that  vast  and  unknown  .region,  untraversed 
by  a  single  road,  wherein  fancy  pictures  that  mysteri- 
ous city  seen  firom  the  topmost  range  of  the  CordilleraSi 
of  unconquered,  unvisited,  and  unsought  aboriginal  in- 
habitants. 

In  conclusion,  I  am  at  a  loss  to  determine  which 
would  be  the  greatest  enterprise,  an  attempt  to  reach 
this  mysterious  city,  to  decipher  the  tablets  of  hiero- 
glyphics, or  to  wade  through  the  accumulated  mann* 
scripts  of  three  centuries  in  the  libraries  of  the  convents* 

Vol.  n.— 3  M 


1 


IVOI9SMTf    •!  rAAYSI^ 


CHAFTBB  XXVn. 

— lotfan  Bi«aiBii.--Merida.""D6pMtttftwr"HttiMiraini  Bfan  of ' 
■-BBA«tittoi»mfMii^IiieM«lt<ftt»PhWit8.  KuiicfJrfylifc 
— 8tafc4iUi«.-GMtfm  kn  ift  8w.— Bttttvtitf  te  Biln  Iftiihi  Ha 
fift.to  Kew-YiiilL— AniviL— GonelnrioB. 

Bmp  10  rotttn  to  oimeliFet*  At  ihiMy  fcy  tho  light  4i 
the  moon,  we  Mk  UxnnA  by  the  most  diroet  tottd  far  Ifo 
rida,  Mr.  Catherwood  in  e  eoeeh  end  I  oo  hweebeAi 
charged  with  «  letter  from  the  junhir  mnjof  domet»  hb 
oompatrfot  and  friend^  Dehnonioo'e  head  ehonnlala  mi 
ker.  Ab  I  foUowed  Mbr.  C.  throogh^die  woods,  botDe  €B 
Ae  dioidden  <^  Indians,  the  fltiUnembndkeaoBlybjthi 
shuffle  of  their  feet,  and  nnder  my  great  apprehensions  for 
his  health,  it  ahnoet  seemed  as  if  I  were  following  his  bier* 
At  the  distance  of  three  leagues  we  entered  the  village  of 
Moona,  where,  though  a  fine  village,  having  white  peo- 
ple and  Mestitzoes  among  its  inhabitants,  travellers  were 
more  rare  than  in  the  interior  of  Central  America.  We 
were  detained  two  hours  at  the  casa  real,  waiting  for  a 
relief  coach.  At  a  short  distance  beyond,  my  guide 
led  me  out  of  the  road  to  show  me  a  pond  of  water, 
which  in  that  country  was  a  curiosity.  It  was  so^ 
rounded  by  woods ;  wild  cattle  were  drinking  on  the 
borders,  and  started  like  deer  at  our  approach*  At  the 
distance  of  four  leagues  we  reached  the  village  of 
Aboula,  with  a  plaza  enclosed  by  a  rough  picket-fence, 
a  good  casa  real  and  fine  old  alcalde,  who  knew  our 
servant  as  belonging  to  the  Peon  family* 

There  was  no  intermediate  village,  and  he  nndertook 


to  prcmde  ns  with  relief  Indtans  to  carry  fli6  ooaeh 
through  to  Merida,  twanty-aevMi  miles.  It  was  grow- 
ing late,  and  I  went  on  before  with  a  horse  for  change, 
to  Teaeh  Merida  in  time  to  make  arrangements  for  a 
caliche  the  next  day. 

Toward  evening  it  rained  hard.  At  dark  I  began  to 
have  apprehension  of  leaving  Mr.  Catherwood  behind, 
sent  the  servant  on  to  secure  the  caliche,  and  dismount- 
ed to  wait  I  was  too  dreadfully  fatigued  to  ride  back| 
and  sat  down  in  the  road ;  by  degrees  I  stretched  my- 
self on  a  smooth  stooe^  with  the  bridle  around  my  wrist, 
and,  after  a  dreamy  debate  whether  my  horse  would 
tread  on  me  or  not,  feM  asle^.  I  was  roused  by  a  jerk 
nchieh  nearly  tore  my  arm  off,  and  saw  coming  through 
the  wood»  Indian  runners  with  blazing  pine  torches, 
liglitkig  the  way  for  the  coach,  which  had  an  aspect  so 
fanereal  that  it  ahaiost  made  me  shudder.  Mr.  Cw  had 
had  his  diffieahies.  After  carrying  hun  about  a  league, 
tfas  Indians  stepped,  laid  him  down,  and,  after  an  ani- 
mated conversation,  took  him  up,  went  on,  but  in  a  little 
while  laid  him  down  again,  and,  thrusting  Aeir  heads 
under  the  cover  of  the  coach,  made  him  an  eager 
and  clamorous  address,  of  which  he  did  not  under- 
stand one  word.  At  length  he  picked  up  dos  pesos,  or" 
two  dollars,  and  gathered  that  they  wanted  two  dollars 
more.  As  the  alcalde  had  adjusted  the  account,  he  re- 
fiised  to  pay,  and,  after  a  noisy  wrangle,  they  quietly 
took  him  up  on  their  shoulders,  and  began  trotting  back 
with  him  to  the  village.  This  made  him  tractable,  and 
he  paid  the  money,  threatening  t^m  as  well  as  he  could 
with  vengeance;  but  the  amusing  part  was  that  they 
were  right.  The  alcalde  had  made  a  mistake  in  the 
caleulation ;  and,  on  a  division  and  distribution  on  the 
road^  by  hard  pounding  and  calcolatingy  each  one 

40 


4£p  INC^PSNTS    pF    T&AYEa.. 

knowing  wliat  he  ought  to  xeceiTe  himaelfi  they  diMOV- 
ered  that  they  had  been  paid  two  dollars  than.  The 
price  wa3  twenty-five  cents  per  man  for  the  first,  sad 
eighteen  cents  for  every  subsequent  league,  besides  fifty 
cents  for  making  the  coach ;  so  that,  with  four  men  for 
relief,  it  was.  two  dollars  £pr  the  first  league,  and  a  did- 
lar  and.a  half  for  every  subaeciHent  one ;  and  a  c»lciile» 
tion  of  the  whole  amount  fbi^nine  league  was  rather 
complicated. 

It  was  half  past  one  when  we  reached  Merida,  and 
we  had  been  up  and  on  th^  road  since  two  ia  the  morn* 
ing.  Fortunately,  with  the  easy  moveioenl  of  the  ooaehi 
Mr.  C.  had  suffered  but  little.  I  was  tired  beyond  til 
measure ;  but  I  had,  what  enabled  me  to  endure  aagt 
degree  of  fatigue,  a  good  cot,  and  was  soon  asleqi. 

The  next  morning  we  saw  my.  firiend  Doa  Sunoa^ 
who  was  preparing  to  go  back  and  join  us.    I  eanmoi 
sufficiently  express  my  sense  of  the  kindness  we  receiv- 
ed from  himself  and  his  family,  and  only  hope  that  I 
may  have  an  opportunity  at  some  future  time  of  return- 
ing it  in  my  own  comilry.     He  promised,  when  we  re- 
turned, to  go  down  with  us  and  assist  in  a  thorough 
exploration  of  the  ruins.     The  Spanish  vessel  was  to 
sail  the  next  day.     Toward  evening,  after  a  heavy  rain, 
as  the  dark  clouds  were  rolling  away,  and  the  setting 
sun  was  tinging  them  with  a  rich  golden  border,  we  left 
Merida.     At  eleven  o'clock  we  reached   Hunucama, 
and  stopped  in  the  plaza  two  hours  to  feed  the  horses. 
While  here,  a  party  of  soldiers  arrived  from  the  port, 
waving  pine  torches,  having  just   returned  victorious 
from  the  siege  of  Caij^eachy.     They  were  all  young, 
ardent,  well  dressed,  and  in  fine  spirits,  and  full  of 
praises  of  their  general,  who,  they  said,  had  remained 
at  Sisal  to  attend  a  ball,  and  was  coming  on  as  soon  uf 


EMBARCATION    TOR    HAVANA.  ¥H 

k  was  over.  Besnmiiig  our  journey,  in  an  hour  more 
we  met  a  train  of  caliches,  with  oflBicers  in  uniform. 
W«  stopped,  congratulated  the  general  upon  his  victory 
mt  Gampeachy,  inquired  for  a  United  States'  sloop-of* 
war  which  we  bad  heard  was  there  during  the  block* 
ade,  and,  with  many  interchanges  of  courtesy,  but  with- 
out seeing  a  feature  of  each  otherVi  faces,  resumed  our 
fleparate  roads.  An  hour  before  daylight  we  reached 
Sisal,  at  six  o'clock  we  embarked  on  board  the  Spanish 
brig  Alexandre  for  Havana,  and  at  eight  we  were  un* 
der  way^. 

'  It  was  the  twenty-fourth  of  June ;  and  now,  as  we 
Aought,  all  otir  troubles  were  ended.  The  morning 
was  fine.  We  had  eight  passengers,  all  Spanish ;  one 
of  whom,  firom  the  interior,  when  he  came  down  to  the 
shore  and  saw  the  brig  in  the  offing,  asked  what  ani- 
mal it  was.  From  my  great  regard  to  the  captain,  I 
will  not  speak  of  the  brig  or  of  its  condition,  particular- 
ly the  cabin,  except  to  say  that  it  was  Spanish.  The 
wind  viras  light;  we  breakfasted  on  deck,  making  the 
top  of  the  companion-way  serve  as  a  table  under  an 
awning.  The  captain  told  us  we  would  be  in  Havana 
in  a  week. 

Our  course  lay  along  the  coast  of  Yucatan  towattf 
(Tape  Catoche.  On  Sunday,  the  28th,  we  had  made, 
according  to  the  brig's  reckoning,  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  miles,  and  were  then  becalmed.  The  sun  was 
intensely  hot,  the  sea  of  glassy  stillness,  and  all  day  a 
school  of  sharks  were  swimming  around  the  brig.  From 
this  time  we  had  continued  calms,  and  the  sea  was  like 
a  mirror,  heated  and  reflecting  its  heat.  On  the  Fourth 
of  July  there  was  the  same  glassy  stillness,  with  light 
clouds,  but  fixed  and  stationary.  The  captain  said  we 
wer^  inoantado  or  enchanted,  and  really  it  almost  seem- 


49t  INCIDENTS    OF    TRAYEI.* 

•d  SO.  We  had  expected  to  celebrate  this  day  by  dimng 
with  the  American  coobuI  in  Havana ;  but  our  yetsel  lay 
like  a  log,  and  we  were  scorching,  and  already  pinched 
for  water ;  the  bare  thought  of  a  Fourth  of  July  dinaflr 
meanwhile  making  Spanish  sh^-cookery  intolerable. 
We  had  read  through  all  the  books  in  the  mate's  libra- 
ry, consisting  of  some  Frenoh  novels  translated  into 
Spanish,  and  a  history  of  awful  shipwrecks.  To  break 
the  monotony  of  the  calm,  we  had  hooks  and  lines  onl 
constantly  for  sharks  ;  the  sailors  called  them,  like  the 
alligators,  ennemigos  de  los  Christianos,  hoisted  them 
on  deck,  cut  out  their  hearts  and  entrails,  and  then 
threw  them  overboard.  We  were  already  out  ten  days, 
^nd  growing  short  of  provisions ;  we  had  two  young 
sharks  for  dinner.  Apart  from  the  assgciationsi  they 
were  not  bad— quite  equal  to  young  alligators ;  and  the 
captain  told  us  that  in  Campeaohy  they  were  regularly 
in  the  markets,  and  eaten  by  all  classes.  In  the  after- 
noon they  gathered  around  us  fearfully.  Everything  that 
fell  overboard  was  immediately  snapped  up ;  and  the 
hat  of  a  passenger  which  fell  from  his  head  had  hardly 
touched  the  water  before  a  huge  fellow  turned  over  on 
his  side,  opened  his  ugly  mouth  above  the  water,  and 
swallowed  it :  luckily,  the  man  was  not  under  it.  To- 
ward evening  we  caught  a  leviathan,  raised  him  four  or 
five  feet  out  of  the  water  with  the  hook,  and  the  sail- 
ors, leaning  over,  beat  his  brains  with  the  capstan  bars 
till  he  was  motionless  ;  then  fastening  a  rope  with 
a  slipnoose  under  his  fins,  with  the  ship's  tackle  they 
hoisted  him  on  deck.  He  seemed  to  fill  half  the  side 
of  the  vessel.  The  sailors  opened  his  mouth,  and  fas- 
tened the  jaws  apart  with  a  marlinspike,  turned  him 
over  on  his  back,  ripped  him  open,  and  tore  out  his 
heart  and  entrails.     They  then  chopped  off  about  a  foot 


tf  lAi  tail  and  threw  him  overboard ;  what  be  did  I  w3l 
ftot  mention,  lest  it  should  bring  discaredit  upon  other 
pftrttf  of  these  pages  which  the  reader  is  disposed  to 
think ^ may  be  true;  but  the  last  we  saw  of  him  h^ 
seen^  to  be  feeling  for  his  tail. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  we  crossed  a  strong 
current  setting  to  northwest,  which  roared  like  break- 
ers ;  soundings  before  one  hundred  and  twenty  fathontf ; 
daring  the  evening  there  was  no  bottom,  and  we  sup- 
posed we  must  have  passed  Cape  Catoche. 

On  the  sitth,  seventh,  eighth,  ninth,  tenth,  eleventh^ 
and  twelfth  there  was  the  same  dead  calm,  with  a  sea 
like  glass  and  intense  heat.  We  were  scant  of  provis- 
ions,  and  alarmed  for  entire  failure  of  water.  The  cap- 
tain was  a  noble  Spaniard,  who  comforted  the  passen- 
gers by  repeating  every  morning  that  we  were  enchant- 
ed, but  for  several  days  he  had  been  mieasy  and  alarmed. 
He  had  no  chronometer  on  board.  He  had  been  thirty 
years  trading  from  Havana  to  different  ports  in  the  Oulf 
of  Mexico,  and  had  never  used  one ;  but  out  of  sound- 
ings, among  currents,  with  nothing  but  the  log,  he  could 
not  determine  his  longitude,  and  was  afraid  of  getting 
ilto  the  Gulf  Stream  and  being  carried  past  Havana. 
Our  chronometer  had  been  nine  months  in  hard  use, 
jolted  over  severe  mountain  roads,  and,  as  we  suppo- 
sed, could  not  be  relied  upon.  Mr.  Catherwood  made 
a  calculation  Vith  an  old  French  table  of  logarithms 
which  happened  to  be  on  board,  but  with  results  so  dif- 
ferent from  the  captain's  reckoning  that  we  supposed  it 
could  not  be  correct.  At  this  time  our  best  prospect 
was  that  of  reaching  Havana  in  the  midst  of  the  yellow 
fever  season,  sailing  from  there  in  the  worst  hurricane 
month,  and  a  quarantine  at  Staten  Island. 

On  the  thirteenth  of  July  everything  on  board  was 


-f    'I  ■ 


llfat  lip  apOBcliJpgf  wd  tfie  oalm  Aiid.itilbie««(4h9 

aailoni  adda^  balf  in  euomt%ikmX  il  WMoa  ■ofiiwt  «l 

C9uld  not  kKd^gvfg  tha  ^i4»«  rf»  the  T«Mfll  wjtbool  m#» 
ing  %ee  or  fiv^,  afi  ^  W^iliiilt^  fer  .^^ 
,  On  the, foprteentti  tha  oaptaia  wpa >layn»d-  Thekf 
W98  thrown  regulady,  bipt.oouldjpot  giva  Jiji  poatkiib 
Toward  e^ipning  we.saw  an  eaasmom  mwtar,  wtth  a 
stij^ight  bllaok  head  ten  fetf  onl  :Qf  walcTi  voonmg  4^ 
reotly  toward  us.  .  The  oaptain^  looking  at  it  firom  itm 
ijgging  with  a  g^an,  said  it  waa. not  a  whale,  AntaAm 
of  the  aame  kind  appeared  at  the  alem,  and  we 
really  nenroua ;  bat  we  were  mlieved  by 

« 

8poat,and  aeeing  a  c(diunn  o£  water  thrown  into  tk» 

At  dark  they  were  lying  huge  and  motionlees  on  tka 
surface  of  the  water. 

On  the  fifteenth,  to  our  great  joy,  a  slight  breesa 
sprang  up  in  the  morning,  and  the  log  gave  three  milea 
an  hour.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  took  the  latitude,  which 
was  in  25**  lO^,  and  found  that  in  steering  iOfUkward  at 
the  rate  of  three  miles  an  hour  by  the  log,  we  were  fifty- 
five  miles  to  the  northward  of  the  reckoning  of  the  day 
before.  The  captain  now  believed  that  we  were  in  the 
midst  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  had  been  so  perhaps  two  or 
three  days,  and  were  then  two  or  three  hundred  milea 
past  Havana.  Mr.  Catherwood's  chronometer  gave  88* 
longitude ;  but  this  was  so  far  out  of  the  way  by  our 
dead  reckoning,  that,  with  our  distrust  of  the  chronome- 
ter, we  all  disregarded  it,  and  the  captain  especially. 
We  were  then  in  a  very  bad  position,  short  of  provis- 
ions and  wateri  and  drifted  past  our  port.    The  captain 


f^Htd  fftfMiiriwgriTjij  iiihrmj  frrtHriHiH  cabia-boj^flfifod 
^  isbv%u-9a  Am  «Hiipmion«way,  aadpoiiHed  oirt  oar 
m^pjPoA  potftiDii^  Mtyiag  that  be  vrished  to  teke  Ae 
llfeFMy^.fft»M  oa  koaxd  at  to  what  was  haat  to  be  done. 
The. mate  mX  by  with  tbe  log-book  to  take'notei.  AH 
remain^  aUeat  until  the  cook  apoke,  and  said  that  the 
Qgptain  knew  beat ;  the  aailora  and  paaeengen  asaented; 
for,  althotugh  we  conaidered  it  all  unoertaio,  and  that  we 
weie  completely  loet,  we  believed  that  he  knew  better 
than  anybody  else.  The  captain  pointed  out  the  couiae 
of  the  Gulf  Stream,  aaid  it  would  be  impoasible  to  turn 
back  against  it,  and,  having  a  light,  favourable  breeie, 
recommended  that  we  should  follow  the  stream,  and 
bear  up  for  New  Providence  for  a  supply  of  proviaiona 
and  water.  All  assented,  ai>d  so  we  put  about  from 
the  south  and  squared  the  yards  for  the  northeast.  At 
that  moment  we  considered  ourselves  farther  from  Ha- 
vana than  when  we  started* 

With  most  uncom£nrtable  feelings  we  sat  down  to  a 
scanty  meal«  Supposing  that  we  were  in  the  GUilf 
Stream  and  in  the  track  of  vesaels,  the  captain  sent  a 
man  aloft  to  look  out  for  a  sail,  who  very  soon,  to  our 
great  joy,  reported  a  brig  to  leeward.  We  hoisted  oar 
flag  and  bore  down  upon  her.  As  we  approached  she 
answered  our  signal,  and  with  a  glass  we  reoogmsed 
the  American  ensign.  In  an  hour  we  were  nearly  with- 
in hailing  distance ;  tbe  captain  could  not  speak  Eng- 
iisb,  and  gave  me  the  speaking-trumpet ;  but  frmoying, 
from  his  movements,  that  our  countryman  did  not  like 
he  Spamsh  coloun,  and  afraid  of  some  teohnieal  irre§^ 
ularity  in  my  hail,  which  would  make  us  an  object  of 
suspicion,  we  begged  him  to  lower  the  jolly-boat.  This 
was  lying  on  tbe  deck,  with  her  bottom  upward  and  her 
seams  opened  by  the  sun.     The  water  poured  into  her 

Vol.  II.— 3  N 


**'  ":0 


dm^tha^'^piutet'^tliberai  MMwiril  iir  Ids  t»(*^  «hf 

lihflrfiM:^  *  Chr  i>rlg  IV*  tlM^HMtti  Mttk,  <^ 

J#»'  If ©•••'''FortB-?"*  ^/FhoT' iPoMcir  tMMM*  bM|jiilirtte  vitip 
faction  with  wMch  I  greeted  oif 'the 'high  iNfafl  a  com- 
tiTman  -bound  for  New- York.  My  first  qaestion  was 
whether  he  ^otdd  take  us  bn  board,  next  for  provitdons 
and  water  for  our  firiends,  and  then  wiiere  we  were. 
He  showed  us  his  observation  for  the  day.  We  were 
about  four  hundred  miles  from  the  spot  we  supposed. 
The  current  nHiich  sets  up  between  Cape  Catoche  and 
Cape  Antoniothe  captain  had  taken  for  the  Gtdf  Stream. 
If  we  had  attended  to  Mr.  C.'s  chronometer  we  shoald 
not  have  been  for  but  of  the  ifny.  As  it  was,  we  were 
perfectly  lost ;  and  if  we  had  not  met  this  vessel,  I  do  not 
know  what  would  have  become  of  us.  The  captain 
was  but  seven  days  from  Tobasco,  with  a  wind  that  had 
carried  away  one  of  his  sails,  and  had  lost  one  ot  his  men. 
He  had  no  surplus  of  provisions,  particularly  with  two 
additional  passengers ;  but  he  sent  on  board  what  he 
could,  and  a  supply  of  water.     We  returned,  told  the 


r      .  ,.       .1 


oaptaiD,  mueh  to  his  Borptiae  mod  astoniohment,  of  hit 
positiony  not  move  tbaa  two  huadred  miles  from  Sisai, 
and  bade  all  hands  farewell.  Thej  were  not  sorry  to 
get  rid  of  us,  for  the  absence  of  two  months  was  an 
object;  and  though,  perhaps,  in  their  hearts  they  thought 
their  bad  luck  was  on  account  of  the  hereties,  it  was 
pleasant,  that  with  all  our  vexations,  parting  thus  on  the 
wide  ocean,  we  shook  hands  with  captain,  passengers, 
sailors,  cook,  and  cabin-boy,  having  no  unkind  feeling 
with  any  one  on  board.  How  long  they  were  out  I  do 
not  know,  but  I  heard  that  they  arrived  at  Havana  in 
wretched  condition,  having  eaten  np  the  last  nunrael  on 
board. 

Our  new  vessel  had  a  full  cargo  of  logwood,  the  deok 
being  loaded  even  with  the  quarter,  and  stowed  so  close 
that  the  cabin-door  was  taken  off,  and  the  descent  was 
over  a  water-cask ;  but  the  change  from  the  Spanish  to 
the  American  vessel  was  a  strange  transition.  The 
former  had  a  captain,  two  mates,  and  eight  sailors ;  the 
latter  one  mate  and  three  sailors,  with  plank  over  the 
deck-load  for  sailors  to  run  on,  an  enormous  boom  main- 
sail, and  a  tiller  instead  of  a  wheel,  sweeping  the  whole 
quarter-deck,  and  at  times  requiring  two  men  to  hold  it. 
In  the  evening  we  had  two  or  three  hours  of  calm ;  we 
were  used  to  it,  but  the  captain  was  annoyed ;  he  de- 
tested a  calm ;  he  had  not  had  one  since  he  left  Tobas- 
CO ;  he  could  bear  anything  but  a  calm.  In  the  evening 
the  charm  was  broken  by  a  squall.  The  captain  hated 
to  take  in  sail,  held  on  till  the  last  moment,  and  then, 
springing  from  the  tiller,  hauled  on  the  ropes  himself, 
and  was  back  again  at  the  rudder,  all  in  a  flash.  Mr. 
C.  and  I  were  so  well  pleased  with  the  change  that  we 
were  in  no  hurry ;  and,  noticing  the  shortness  of  hands, 
and  stumbling  ovor  logwood,  wS  suggested  to  the  cap* 


■*■■      "'"-^    ■  .   •  • 


4R  VBOVf^MraMwl|Fl^Ki  It  ■fCMMv^Ml^wMfl  OB  buCfUf 

'.    *:!0a-the  thirty-first  of  July  we  iirrncd'at  New- York, 

*'  trirtg  ten  months  less  three  days  sineo  We  sailed,  aiid 

.    flMs^ithout  having  received  any  iateUigence  wtialever 

•    #B^T)ur  friends  at  home;  deducting  the  time  passed 

'*  \.tH  |SM,  but  seven  months  and  tweniy-fonr  days  in  the 

'    •  prcntKution  of  our  work.     This,  I  am  sure,  must  reoom-. 

■wad  lis  to  every  tiue  American ;  nnd  here,  on  the  same 

,  j^ot  iirom  which  we  set  out  together,  and  with  but  little  * 

Jf)^ of  ever  journeying  with  him  agoin,  I  bid  the  r^&der 


i  • 


APPENDIX 


Havuco  mentioned  in  the  preceding  pages  efforts  to  introduce 
into  thiB  country  some  of  the  antiquities  therein  described,  the 
author  considers  it  proper  to  say  that,  immediately  on  his  re- 
turn  home,  a  few  friends,  whose  names  he  would  have  great 
pleasure  in  making  known  if  he  were  at  liberty  to  do  so,  under- 
took to  provide  the  sum  of  $20,000  for  the  purpose  of  carrying 
that  object  into  eflfect.  Under  their  direction,  the  author  wrote 
to  his  agent  at  Groatimala,  to  purchase  the  ruins  of  Quirigua,  or 
auch  monuments  as  it  might  be  considered  advisable  to  remove,  at 
a  price  beyond  what  would  have  been  accepted  for  them  whea 
ha  left  Guatimala ;  but»  unfortunately,  in  the  mean  time,  a  notica 
taken  from  Mr*  Catherwood's  memoranda,  and  inserted  by  tha 
proprietorB  in  a  Gruatimala  paper,  had  reached  this  country^ 
been  translated  and  copied  into  some  of  our  own  journals,  and 
one'«ulogiBtic  paragraph,  probably  forgotten  as  soon  as  writtep^ 
was  sent  back  to  Guatimala,  which  gave  the  proprietor  such 
an  exaggerated  notion  of  their  value  that  he  refused  the  offer. 
From  vague  conversations  with  foreigners  who  had  never  seen 
and  knew  nothiqg  of  them,  he  conceived  the  idea  tiiat  all  the 
governments  of  Europe  would  vie  with  each  other  for  their  pos- 
session ;  and  still  entertaining  the  foolish  belief  that  the  author 
was  acting  on  behalf  of  his  government,  said  that,  if  the  Presl. 
dent  of  the  United  States  wanted  them,  he  must  pay  $20,000  for 
them;  in  the  mean  timet  he  resolved  to  wait  for  offers  from 
England  and  France.  By  the  last  advices  he  was  still  under  the 
same  hallucination* 

In  regard  to  Palenque,  the  author  has  jvist  received  a  letter 
from  Mr.  Russellf  enclosing  four  documents  brought  to  him  by 
Mr.  Pawling,  which,  translated  so  far  as  the  manuscripts  can  be 
made  out,  are  as  foUowa: 


^k 


470 


APPBRDIZ. 


4  '<  The  gorernor  haa  been  informed  that  the  rioe-gofernor  of 
Balize^  (meaniagy  no  doubt*  Mr.  Secretary  Walker  and  Captain 
Caddy)  ^  came  to  eaiplore  the  mina  a  few  days  aince,  with  fourteen 
armed  men,  and  you  have  neither  prevented  him  nor  given  any 
information  to  thia  goremment, 

**  Now  he  is  again  informed  that  some  citisena  of  the  United 
States  of  the  North  are  doing  the  same ;  in  virtue  of  which,  his 
excellency  orders  me  to  tell  you  to  inform  him  immediately  upon 
A»  truth  of  tkeaeftctiy  that  he  may  take  the  necessary  measoiet. 

•«  God  and  liberty. 

^  Ehriqub  Rinx. 

«*8n  Ciktobd,*  OetobOT  1, 1840.** 

**  The  subaeribersy  inhabitants  of  thia  town,  as  true  patriols» 
end  lovers  of  the  prosperity  and  advancement  of  thair  coontiy, 
before  you,  witii  due  respect,  and  with  die  legal  right  that  we 
itmy  have,  appear,  saying  that  it  ia  aomalhing  like  ooora  than 
tkrbe  months  since  m  dtiaen  of  North  Aaerici,  mmed  Beniy 
NnUn,  has  fixed  his  residence  on  Ae  luias  In  tbis  district,  widb 
the  view  of  making  moulds  of  eveiy  monument  and  precicus 
thing  that  there  is  on  them;   aa,  in  foct,  he  is  makiiig  riiem, 
since,  up  to  this  date ;   he  has  already  made  something  like 
thirty  moulds  of  plaster  of  Paris,  including  two  which  he  took  to 
the  town  of  Carmen,  without  giving  notice  to  anybody,  and  with 
the  object  of  shipping  them  for  the  North"  (these  two  have  been 
received  by  the  author).     **  The  said  moulds  are  so  much  like 
the  originals,  that  af  the  first  sight  it  may  be  observed  that  they 
may  be  taken,  surely,  for  second  originals,  and  no  doubt  they 
may  serve  to  mrnild  after  them  as  many  copies  as  might  be 
wished,  and  in  this  manner  they  may  supply  the  world  with 
these  precious  things  without  a  six  cents'  piece  expense.     Mr, 
William  Brown,  married  to  Donna  Trinidad  Garrido,  ofiered 
from  eight  to  ten  thousand  dollars  only  for  the  leave  to  extract 
four  or  six  principal  stones  from  these  ruins,  in  quality  of  a  loan 
•  •  ♦  ♦  or  to  ♦  ♦  *  ♦"  (the  precise  nature  of  Mr.  Willum 
Bsown's  offer  cannot  be  made  out,  from  the  illegible  character 


*  Or  Cindad  Real,  Uie  capital  of  the  State  of  Cfaiipn. 


APPENDIX.  471 

of  the  handwriting),  ^  promising  all  these  things  with  the  most 
satisfactory  guarantees.  Saving  you,  sir,  from  any  responsibil- 
ity, we  take  it  upon  ourselves,  since  we  arc  aware  of  your  bad 
state  of  health,  and  we  suppose  that  you  do  not  know  of  this  fact** 
(manuscript  illegible),  *'on  account  of  this  master  operation, 
or  whosoever  is  concerned  in  it,  make  this  gentleman  pay  four 
or  five  thousand  dollars,  to  apply  them  to  benevolent  works,  and 
to  the  embellishment  of  this  town,  or  else  let  him  in  no  manner 
take  away  with  him  any  of  the  moulds  of  plaster  of  Paris  he  has 
made  and  continues  making.  Indeed,  if  this  treasure  is  ours, 
and  by  right  belongs  to  our  town,  why  should  it  not  be  benefited 
by  it? 

^*  It  is  an  honour  to  us,  sir,  to  make  a  demand  of  this  nature, 
since  we  have  not  heard  that  any  ofier  whatever  has  been  made 
at  all  about  this  undertaking  up  to  this  date.  Let  the  visiters  of 
these  ruins  make  moulds,  drawings,  dec.,  but  let  them  also  con- 
tribute with  sums  proportionate  to  their  operations.  This  is,  sir, 
if  we  are  not  mistaken,  a  business  of  a  great  speculation.  The 
persons  concerned  in  this  affidr  are  men  of  importance.  There- 
fore we  beg  of  you  most  earnestly,  and  in  virtue  of  our  legal 
right,  not  to  permit  the  removal  of  any  of  the  said  moulds  of 
plaster  of  Paris  from  this  town  without  the  said  sums  being 
paid,  grounded  on  the  great  utility  that  the  extractors  may  de- 
rive from  it,  as  well  as  on  the  aforesaid  offer  made  by  Mr,  Broum. 

**  Santiago  Froncoso, 
**  Bartolo  Bravo, 
**  Miguel  Castillo. 

••  Palenqae,  October  15, 1840." 

**  Don  Santiago  Froncoso  having  informed  the  governor  that 
he  and  two  other  inhabitants  of  that  town  have  presented  a  me- 
morial before  you  in  regard  to  the  removal  of  the  antiquities  of 
the  ruins  at  Palenque,  his  excellency  consulted  the  departmental 
junta  on  the  subject,  which  junta  answered  by  approving  the  pe- 
tition, which  copy  I  send  you  enclosed,  with  the  decree  of  his  ex* 
cellency  written  under  it,  that  you  may  cause  it  to  be  fulfilled. 
I  send  you,  likewise,  two  copies  of  the  regulations  for  passports 
for  the  archives  of  that  subprefecture,  with  the  object  that  the 

41 


-  474 


APP£^B$% 


erol  GoTcrnmcnt,  and  draw  lo  it  Catlin'a  lodian  Gnlterf,  uid  everj 
other  memorial  of  the  aboriginal  rac«s,  whoso  hislory  niihin  our 
own  borders  lias  already  became  almost  a  romance  and  fable. 
The  BUlhor  doea  not  deapair  of  ibis  yet.  The  difficulijr  will  per- 
haps be  increased  (the  author  trusts  ho  will  not  be  coiuidercd 
prtaumpmous)  by  the  aiiention  that  will  be  directed  to  the  re- 
maioa  of  Paleiique  and  the  other  ruined  cities  by  the  publicaiJoD 
of  these  pages,  and  the  consequently  exaggerated  aotiooa  that 
the  inhabitants  will  form  of  their  value  ;  but  then  be  is  perstia- 
ded  that  the  tiovernnieni  of  Mexico  will,  on  proper  Kpreecata- 
tions,  order  a  restitution  of  the  casta  now  detained  at  Palenque, 
and  that  the  republic,  without  impoverishing  herself,  will  enrich 
her  neighbours  of  the  North  with  Ilie  knowledge  of  ihe  many 
other  curious  remains  scattered  through  her  country.  And  be 
entertains  the  belief  also  that  England  and  France,  wlioae  for. 
midable  competition  has  already  been  sec  up,  as  it  were  in  ler> 
rorem,  by  one  proprietor,  having  their  capitals  enriched  by  the 
remains  of  art  collected  throughout  the  Old  World,  will  respect 
the  rights  of  nations  and  discovery,  and  leave  Ihe  field  of  Amencao 
nntiquilies  to  us  ;  that  ihey  will  not  deprive  a  destitute  country 
of  its  only  ciionce  of  conlribuling  to  the  cause  of  science,  but  ra- 
ther encourage  it  in  the  work  of  bringing  together,  from  remote 
and  almost  inaocaasible  places,  and  retaining  on  its  oWD  soil.t 
architectural  remains  of  its  aboriginal  inhabitanU.